How to Replace a RaceFace Aeffect Cinch Chainring

This is a RaceFace Aeffect crankset that came on my Diamondback 4c. Here I show how to remove the crank arm as well as changing out the chainring. Links to some of the tools you will need are below.
The chainring tool is a Shimano compatible 20 spline bottom bracket tool (Park Tool BBT-22 or 32), the crank puller is a Park Tool CWP-7, you can also use the CCP-44c. (the CCP-22 will NOT work with this type of crank, it is for tapered square only)
Lock ring Tool: amzn.to/2Zg5WuY
Crank Pullers: amzn.to/36aroTC
amzn.to/36l5kpG
amzn.to/2Znl3Tp
Torque wrench: amzn.to/360UOWu
Cinch Chainring: amzn.to/2WNyF8W
Bike Stand: amzn.to/2X5pBwa
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases

[@debthomas1293]

This is brilliant! Thank you. The part about the WorkMate bench is invaluable. As a woman who works on her bikes, it really helps to have tricks like this to get the leverage needed to get bolts loose and then torqued correctly. It worked perfectly for me.

[@olallielackler4225]

super clear and helpful ! thank you for making this!

[@vellotrol]

Best video ever, thank you very much especially for putting all the tools links in the description... you are the man!

[@felixantoinetremblay]

Much better than the RaceFace video, thanks!

[@snokefilmmedia]

Fantastic video, thank you! But wow, what a completely over-engineered crank system!

[@jodyyoung3980]

Thank you Tony! This video helped me purchase the right tools and replace my Cinch chainring.

[@TonyHob]

Glad it helped!

[@anthonyfats57]

Great Video. Thanls a lot. Finally I know how to remove my old chainring and install the new one

[@tonymiller4173]

Great video! Helpful to tell viewers the tools you are using throughout the process!

[@TonyHob]

Great name 👍

[@moderntouchfurniture]

Couldn't have done it without this video, thank you!

[@mark.e.p]

Thanks for the Vid, I kinda worked it out but still good to see. I had to reverse drill my 8mm bolt out it was stuck firm! 3 days soaking in penetrating oil, but after 3 years the Raceface bearing are like new still. I'm just adding a footnote.... When you finally reassemble the right hand crank by screwing the 8mm cap bolt on, once it's on just back it off slightly. All the bolt does is lock the crank on the splines its then done its job, you could actually ride without it. Also l can't recommend Halfords Penetrating oil enough.

[@TonyHob]

I actually dismantle the crankset periodically to clean and lightly lube the threads and splines in order to avoid those situations. It might not be a bad idea to do a maintenance video since you are not the only one to mention how hard it was to remove the bolt.

[@mark.e.p]

@@TonyHob l do take it apart quite regularly but l stupidly rounded off the bolt. The trick is when you reassemble the crank with the 8mm bolt the pressure pushes the right hand crank on that's all it does. Once the crank is on you can back it off slightly and the cranks locked on. That way it won't get stuck.

[@viperRX]

What do you mean? How much torque is required for the 8mm bolt?

[@tommcnulty7833]

Tony you are the man. This explained everything perfectly. Very much appreciated!

[@michaelamato1690]

Thanks for the great video! Followed it to change out my chaining.

[@PAULEYBOY84]

That rear hub sounds mean bro... I like...

[@TonyHob]

Thanks, it’s a Bontrager Rapid Drive 108

[@3dflyer87]

Wow, so helpful! Thank you!

[@hemtbexperience]

Awesome, Thanks for sharing this video it has helped a lot !👍

[@brianwalsh975]

Thank you.

[@jacklo325]

Nice video, very informative! Thank you!

[@bacburrito4225]

Excellent video

[@madhazer]

Just what I was looking for, thank you!

[@MILTONATOR]

Thanks man! This here was exactly what I needed.

[@Emergenttheory]

Thanks!

[@jordanrhodes]

excellent tutorial!

[@iffy_too4289]

excellent tutorial. thanks

[@Tigmt1913]

Thank you for the excellent video!

[@paddyfitz93]

Helped out a great deal with my installation,. although my chainring had no notch or indicator to line it up with crank arm ? Maybe different on newere models

[@TonyHob]

Could be. It’s been a while since I bought a new one

[@Pogo69]

I also noticed that with my new chainring. Possibly, because I went with steel instead of alloy?

[@ErhardFrebold]

Can confirm my 3 different sized steel rings all have no notch. Guess they're radially symmetrical so orientation doesn't matter. Wonder why some rings had a location dot?

[@adriancabrera3014]

very useful video thank you¡

[@peterthelarge5110]

This is good, tnx

[@RideWhatchaBrung]

Thank you!

[@johnlaw5762]

Not sure if that’s an older version aeffect or whether you’re just missing the “outer bolt” as that setup doesn’t require a crank extractor. It’s essentially a self extracting setup...just the allen keys required

[@TonyHob]

This is the version without the self extracting bolt. About 2 years old. On my DUB NX crank video I talk about self extracting crank arms which my newer NX does have.

[@danilojuezan7481]

Thank you tony

[@TonyHob]

glad it helped

[@pilsknot]

I got the BBT-22, but not the CWP-7.. no way to remove it without this tool?

[@remito71]

Thanks

[@dudedecent2709]

Hi, thanks for the video! Would you recommend also lightly greasing the direct mount interface that you point to at 5:34 in addition to the threaded lock ring? Maybe it would stop future creaks?

[@TonyHob]

It couldn’t hurt, it’s probably a good idea 👍

[@dudedecent2709]

@@TonyHobThanks! 🙏

[@sarahhecocks9294]

The inner core of the crank puller isn’t threading for me, but the outside is. Any tips? I’m trying to remove race face ride cinch cranks

[@mrpappagone]

thnks nice video

[@dudedarnell]

Great tutorial, thanks! Is the crank puller required? It seems an 8mm allen is working just fine - don't want to be damaging anything though!

[@TonyHob]

There is a version with a self extracting bolt that does not require a puller. It works as you remove the 8mm allen bolt and no puller is needed. That’s probably the one you have.

[@santiagomedinas266]

Good tutorial!!!, you removed very easy the hex 8mm screw, I'm trying to remove it and nothing, almost tear off my arms first.

[@TonyHob]

keep trying, probably over tightened or really dirty in there. Might want to try some penetrating oil

[@santiagomedinas266]

@@TonyHob I did it, I used WD 40 and 70 pound 1/ 2 Snap On drill.

[@AlbieVas]

I heard there is a self extracting bolt you could leave in your crank arm is that true

[@TonyHob]

It is. In one of the comments a viewer talks about having some problems with it.

[@dirtycommtroop]

I have a 2019 DB Syncr and crank is supposed to be Raceface aeffect cinch but I had 2 bolts inside and the crank arm puller has nothing to push against.

[@TonyHob]

Its probably a self extracting crank. It should pull itself out as you remove the inner bolt

[@dirtycommtroop]

@@TonyHob yup thanks, i managed to figure that out soon after posting lol. Thanks for the reply.

[@TonyHob]

Awesome 👍

[@penunka]

Go the Lefties Thanks for the vid

[@rustler08]

One note to add: I highly recommend getting a toothbrush and cleaning out those splines for the cinch lockring before you attempt to remove it. Because they're so fine, it doesn't take much to foul up a spline and get improper engagement, which can cause the tool to slip out when you want to loosen it. Just some soap and warm water will break up the grit/dirt in there and give you a perfect surface. It's a step that takes maybe a minute or two extra and can remove hours of unnecessary labor if you damage the splines with a tool slip. While you're in there you can clean out the threads on the cranks; make sure everything is nice and clean so that you don't cross-thread or get a false torque reading because of grit in the threads.

[@TonyHob]

totally agree at 5:43

[@danygsxr1000]

Nice vid. What rear hub you running?

[@TonyHob]

Bontrager Rapid Fire 108. Wheels are Bontrager Elite 30

[@ericburdick3599]

Just picked up a orange raceface cinch chairing and there is no groove on back. What should I do

[@TonyHob]

As long as it’s not oval it really should not matter. Line up one of the “spokes” on the chainring with the crank arm and you are set.

[@tomacheteful]

What chain ring do I need for direct mount cinch for 11 speed shimano 1x?

[@TonyHob]

Any narrow/wide chainring made for your crankset will work with shimano 11s.

[@nerfboychannel3055]

It is possible to fit shimano direct mount chainring for this?

[@TonyHob]

I don’t believe so. I think the mounting patterns are different.

[@claybaldwin3676]

If chainring is not the oval one, does it matter if that dot on the chainring lines up with the crank arm? I just put one on and didn’t do that and ai don’t notice any problems but I’ll go back and change it if there is a reason? Thanks

[@claybaldwin3676]

Ooh darn I think I’ll have to go back, I put the red circle more towards the arm, what is the reason for this btw? Thanks

[@TonyHob]

definitely not as critical as with an oval chainring and will not affect performance. The only thing lining up the dot is going to do is remind you to have the chainring "spoke" at the position where it will receive the most stress during the pedal stroke (in line with the drive side crank arm)

[@claybaldwin3676]

@@TonyHob ah ok, Thank you. Also, the circle/spacer between the bottom bracket and crank arm, why does the red circle have to face the bike? @min 7:42

[@TonyHob]

It has a small lip so it seats correctly

[@anmivarO]

sorry for asking sr what bottom bracket do u use sr? i need that info please

[@TonyHob]

assuming you have a BSA bottom bracket frame, any standard Hollowtech II BSA 68/73mm 24 mm spindle BB will work. In this case I am using a Shimano XT amzn.to/3FsiLVX

[@tseielsolano2944]

Are the shimano direct chainring same with the race face ones?

[@TonyHob]

As far as I know they are different

[@randelllorenzo3684]

Just wondering what is your hub?

[@TonyHob]

It's a Bontrager Rapid Drive 108. It sounds like a bumble bee!

[@randelllorenzo3684]

@@TonyHob thank you the sound cures my cholesterol lol nice one

[@WM-hv3bf]

Have you ever cross threaded a bottom bracket?

[@TonyHob]

I have not but know of people that have. It is also possible to damage the crank if you use the wrong puller. I discuss the correct Park Tools puller models in the description.

[@carstenschulte7223]

Van you please give me the right torque? Is it 60Nm?

[@TonyHob]

6:48

[@TonyHob]

www.metric-conversions.org/energy-and-power/foot-pounds-to-newton-meters.htm

[@carstenschulte7223]

Oh sorry. 30 ft-lb is for tightening the chainring. I mean the torque for the crank, but you didn‘t use a torque wrench as i see 😊

[@abnercarrera]

What size torque wrench is needed?

[@TonyHob]

Not sure what you mean, it is a ft/lb torque wrench. The tool I have for the lockring is a 1/2” drive, my torque wrench is 3/8” drive so I used an adapter. You can use a 1/2” without an adapter if yourBB tool is 1/2” like mine.

[@TonyHob]

I added a link to a torque wrench that includes adapters in the description. amzn.to/3goqwQc

[@AliGArauz]

Cuál par de apriete de la biela!!!

[@TonyHob]

Es una pregunta o un comentario? De cualquier manera, no entiendo lo que quieres decir (o preguntar)

[@mrvapor4791]

If it really was a "cinch" then it would use a more common bb removal tool

[@TonyHob]

I see what you did there 😂

[@MrMJJ23]

That 8mm cover is completely stuck or seized on mine smh

[@TonyHob]

You can try putting a broomstick between the crank arm and chainstay to keep the arm from turning and carefully use a cheater bar to remove the bolt. You can also try an impact wrench but the chance of causing damage is greater

[@howardmontaque8147]

if you have the tools

[@TonyHob]

Did you think I was going to do it with my bare hands? 🙄

[@howardmontaque8147]

@@TonyHob You have bear hands? The list of tools has not been easy for me to buy.

[@albert85b]

Great video, very helpful.

[@BackyardShredder]

Thank you!