VW A2: 1.8L No Start / No Spark: Hall Sensor replacement

[@adrianstanford4402]

Hey there. My car is a 1992 VW Fox, South African edition, and It’s been parked for a while because my starter got messed up. Got a new starter today and fitted it but the car would only crank and not idle. Thought it was lacking petrol so I poured a tiny bit of petrol down the carb and turned it over, it sounded like it wanted to start but then it seemed as though it was misfiring. I’ve been struggling for about a couple of hours and had lost hope. After watching this video and seeing the firing order on the distributor, I went to go check mine and found they had been swapped around. Used your 1-3-4-2 method and boom, it started. I didn’t check the distributor because I was under the impression that everything was fine since the car had been parked. Very grateful for this video, thanks a bunch!

[@adrianstanford4402]

Oh yeah and it also helped a bunch when checking the hall sender👍🏽

[@EXOVCDS]

Nice to hear that one of my videos was of help to you. Someone must have swapped the wires... played a trick on you, since wires don't change position by themselves. Thank you for watching!

[@Bl4ckBasecoat]

Awesome video! Me and my fiancée just acquired a mk2 Golf from '89, and i am reading up on all kinds of 90's VW maintainance tips, so this vid is super helpful! The white was an awesomeaddition as well, it made the viewing experience really pleasant!

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you for watching. I reply to all posts / questions... to make up for info missed / not visible in my videos.

[@willemajorwilliemajor476]

Hi Thomas,, Just an update for you. I fitted an ECM today and it worked perfectly. You were spot on. Thank you very much for your help

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you for the update! Happy to hear it worked out well!

[@QuintusSchulzke]

This was very informative to follow, thanks. I noticed while trying to fix my P0341 camshaft position code error on 98 VW Cabrio, that just getting the hall sensor (some call it the "pickup coil") was nearly impossible and if I could it was almost as cheap (about $150) to get the whole distributor and change it out, so I'll end up doing that, but again, thanks for video taping the whole process!

[@EXOVCDS]

Yes, distributor replacement is quicker and sometimes more cost effective. Thank you for watching & taking the time to comment!

[@joshua96022]

That's what I'm having to do for my 98 Jetta. Got a bad hall sensor and simply opted for full replacement of the distributor. Very helpful video.@@EXOVCDS

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you for watching!

[@stuzman52]

Very nice indeed, and like Steve said, the commentary was a nice addition. And you make a very good teacher!!!

[@EXOVCDS]

Would you be able to explain the "backfeed" that I had mentioned (which I wasn't ecpecting)? Somehow the ign module allowed the test light to ground out on the plus side of the circuit. If I tried to explain everything that I can't explain, my head would explode. I'll be checking the same thing on the next old timer I get in the shop, because I don't recall others doing that... unless I recall incorrectly. Time to win the lotto and get out of this trade!

[@stuzman52]

***** It would be pretty hard to say without seeing the internal diagrams of the ICM. But what we do know is that the B+ terminal isn't going directly to B+. Otherwise, we wouldn't see the light come on. We did see the light come on, but dimly. That implies there is a resistor in this circuit dropping voltage, which allows a smaller voltage drop for the light bulb. That's about the best I could do Thomas without knowing the internals.

[@EXOVCDS]

stuzman52 You have already explained it better than I would / could have! Thank you for your time & knowledge!

[@willemajorwilliemajor476]

Hi Thomas Thanks very much for getting back to me. Il try and pick up an ECU. I really appreciate your help thanks, Billy

[@EXOVCDS]

Let me know what you find (loose wire / cable or bad connection). Had any work been done on the car before this?

[@guayaco-dm3vu]

Don't tell me you got another tool box Thomas...Lol I like this mk2 stuff, Thanks to you now i'm gonna have a spare dist. for testing. Thanks for the vids.

[@EXOVCDS]

guayaco3299 A lot of times I work all over the shop... sometimes the "dead cars" don't make it to my bay or my bay is already full.

[@essuede]

Thanks for this video. I got an 87 jetta. It has a really hard time starting after driving it for over 15 minutes. I'm hoping this is the problem

[@EXOVCDS]

Shane McGuire does it sputter till it starts? Check fuel pressure to make sure that it does not drop off to zero when the engine is shut off. Get back to me once that's checked.

[@jmrarmstrong]

thanks for the video. I have a 1999 VW mexican beetle and i have no spark after a compression test. I need to point out that I forgot to remove the cable from the distributor before doing the comp test. I just check for voltage at the hall sensor plug and I do have power if I connect the tester to the positive at the battery but I don't have power when I connector negative and turn switch on, like u did in ur video!

[@EXOVCDS]

JR Armstrong Check for a blown fuse. When you turn the key to ON... does the battery & oil light come on in the dash?

[@jmrarmstrong]

thanks for replying, I was able to find the issue. it was the main plug at the harness. I wiggled it and it started right away. thanks again, appreciate you for taking the time to make the video.

[@EXOVCDS]

JR Armstrong It's always nice when it's something simple!

[@SteveRobReviews]

Well done - commentary added was a bonus :)

[@EXOVCDS]

Steve Rob Glad you liked it... if I was alone in the shop for every video, I would probably talk more.

[@paulporteous4190]

Very good video! So as long as I line the rotor arm up straight I can straight swap the new one in!

[@EXOVCDS]

Yes.

[@brsrc759]

Dude great video. I've got a 1990 cabriolet 1.8 L Digi system. I don't know how to identify which digi is. I'm not familiar with these cars yet. I'm stuck at home with no money to buy a new Hall sensor or distributor or anyting. Hall sensor seems good but I only get one initial spark from the main coil wire on cranking and then nothing. Car won't even sputter

[@EXOVCDS]

That's usually a sign of a bad hall sensor (only one initial spark)... how are you testing / checking the sensor? Do the following with a test light and let me know what the results are. Video should start at 4:39 kzbin.info/www/bejne/jYPbn5x6a5igkKM

[@guayaco-dm3vu]

Had to come back and watch some of this videos again. Just want to remember how vw's work lol.. Its been awhile since i had to fix one.lol

[@happymnisi]

Hi Thomas, nice video, did you post a follow up video when you were setting the timing? I would like to see how you did that Thanks

[@EXOVCDS]

+Happy boy Mnisi Sorry, no video (sometime down the road maybe)... simply follow the instructions in a service manual, or this will also help: www.cabby-info.com/Files/AdjustingTheTiming.pdf

[@Mavura1]

Hi Thomas Thanks for such information, I also have a spark problem, on a 2004 vw polo 1.6, It only supplies a spark once on a first crank then it disappears , until the next crank repeatedly.

[@EXOVCDS]

What is the engine code (so that I can look up information)? BAH, BJA etc.. and 9A1 or 9A2 body?

[@Mavura1]

BAH

[@EXOVCDS]

Could be a few things... when you are cranking, make sure that the battery & oil light stay ON while you are cranking, if not, might be a bad ignition switch. VW lists a "hall sensor" as part of your ignition system (but it looks like a crank sensor #8 in this pdf): fkh161.ca/VW/BAH001.pdf Location #12 in this pdf: fkh161.ca/VW/BAH002.pdf

[@EXOVCDS]

Could be other things as well... if you need more info / wiring diagrams, send me a message on the weekend.

[@elmeri9237]

I had same symptoms in my Volvo 740... replaced spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor, ingonition coil and spark module and no change. Now I an waiting for new whole distributor because my hall sensor was broken and glued back on by previous owner. I hope that will fix it because it took pretty long for me to figure it out as I am new on fixing cars.

[@EXOVCDS]

I don't know if your Volvo also has a crankshaft position sensor... if it does, then you need to check it as well. The hall sensor can be checked with a multimeter, like in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d2e7h2iuZZpjasU In this video, the sensor is mounted behind the camshaft gear, but works the same as the sensor in the distributor. Outer two wires are power & ground and the middle wire is the signal wire. Attach your multimeter to the middle wire (20VDC scale) and attach the ground wire to battery negative. With the engine cranking, the voltage should fluctuate from high to 0. If it stays at a constant voltage or 0, then the sensor is bad.

[@willemajorwilliemajor476]

Hi Thomas Very good video. It helped me understand how the hall sensor works. I've got a 1991 vw golf gti 8v looks the same as the one in your video. It had no spark. I fitted a new distributor I now have a spark. But when I tried to start the engine it locked up and wouldn't turn over. I removed the spark plugs. And when I turn the ignition on the cylinders fill with fuel and pour out the spark plug holes. Any ideas. Regards Billy

[@EXOVCDS]

Hi... the engine computer (ECM) is fried. The injector driver (the transistor that opens & closes the injectors) is stuck ON... causing fuel to be constantly injected. This usually happens after someone replaces the clutch and forgets to attach the big ground cable from the battery correctly (or not at all) to the transmission or engine (depending on where the cable was). You will have to replace the computer or have it repaired... and MAKE SURE that all the ground connections are OK before you try to start the engine with the fixed / new ECM.

[@julianfreto1666]

I think this is the only video on rebuilding this type of bosch distributor. Same distributor as golf 1's in SA

[@EXOVCDS]

Very similar across many makes & models of that Era.

[@masonpugh3637]

Your videos are great Thomas thanks a lot for everything that you do

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you!

[@willemajorwilliemajor476]

Hi Thomas I found a loose earth on the right hand side of the engine. I've tightened it up now

[@EXOVCDS]

Ok, thanks for the quick update!

[@selvyntait5433]

Great video on the 1.8 golf as usual,however I have 2 question to ask , How can I increase the hp without on a 1.8 golf without doing a engine swap . Second what's the most common problem with those engine?

[@EXOVCDS]

Add a turbo (you'll need a stand alone fuel management system). No common problem... aside from plastic coolant flanges failing with age.

[@eltattooma]

Really you have helped me to fix my vw golf 2 GTI thanks alot❤❤❤

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you for watching!

[@PatalJunior]

I know this is an old video, but if you could help. The car is a polo 6n1 1.2, sometimes it starts fine, sometimes it starts but it stalls after 1 - 2 seconds or if you go up in the rev range, but if you wait 30 min, sometimes works again perfectly, could it be this ? Had one shop replace the butterfly valve, but it didn't get fixed, glad if you could help.

[@EXOVCDS]

We don't have 1.2L polos in Canada... so I don't know what type of fuel injection system or ignition system is uses. A service manual and wiring diagrams should be able to help you figure things out. I would have to look at them myself, in order to be able to supply you with some suggestions.

[@williamchen7399]

Great video! I'm trying to run a similar diagnosis on the hall sensor of my 92 vw golf (no start/no spark/cranks but won't catch), is it possible for me to also hook up a working distributor and spin it by hand and watch for spark like you did? It's a stick shift.

[@EXOVCDS]

Yes... attach another distributor, key on, spin distributor. If you now have spark, your hall sensor is bad (the one in the car). If you get no spark, then it's not a hall sensor issue (or the distributor you are using for testing is also no good).

[@jimmiconwey]

Hi ,i got the same problem with Hall sensor,i can buy (quite good price) a new sensor (tiny wires cuted off by the the things above "") but the part number is 034998065 A and original for my model(PB) its 034998065 (VW catalog) what do you thing,what is the difference ?Thanks alot very good clip ! Jimmy from France

[@sammym.belfastchild]

Hi , I have a 92 Jetta 1.8. With a no start issue.. I removed the hall sensor, you go though voltage supply and ground... I have ground , and the back feed on supply side ,but when I check supply with key on I get No supply 12v. Checked ICM even changed out ,fuel pump is good etc but when I check for spark off of the Coil I only get one spark ... why would I get No supply at the Hall plug in to the distributor????? Interlock realay is good.. CAN ANYONE HELP OR GIVE DIRECTION TO LOOK ... thanks much SMG..

[@EXOVCDS]

Use a wiring diagram to see where / how the hall sensor gets power.

[@brsrc759]

I'm having the same exact problem with my 1.8. this is very frustrating

[@alan944b]

Hi,Great video!i am having trouble with my mk2 golf 16v with no spark and I’m going through the testing process,How do I start my car from the engine bay so i can do one of my tests?Thanks

[@EXOVCDS]

Make sure that the transmission is in neutral!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Use a jumper wire and touch the starter "trigger" terminal (remove starter trigger wire / connector). similar to this video: (first 20 seconds) kzbin.info/www/bejne/n5-uqK2dZ9Smg8k The starter trigger wire is the one that you can pull off (red/black wire).

[@alan944b]

Perfect!!Does it have to be a special wire thickness that you use?Thanks

[@EXOVCDS]

Thicker than speaker wire, but that should be ok for a few quick activations.

[@jeroenvanwassenhove3000]

hey thomas i finally started my jetta 2 cli after 3 years and your video helped me a lot. is there a possibility that u might know where i can get a vacuum diagram for the car i have

[@EXOVCDS]

Vacuum diaphragm?

[@jeroenvanwassenhove3000]

just to know where all the vacuum pipes must be connected and where they go to

[@edwardm9227]

I have an 89 golf gti that died five times coming home Thursday and now won't spark. I have a hall sensor on order great to see how to fit it, thanks. Parts are starting to be a little bit tiresome for older cars! Net zero boo!!

[@EXOVCDS]

Confirm that the coil can create spark... by briefly grounding the center pin of the hall sensor wiring plug when the key is on. You should hear the injectors click and a spark should jump from the coil wire (place the disconnected coil wire from the distributor cap, close to a metal surface). If no spark jumps each time the center pin is touched to ground... there is a different problem than the hall sensor.

[@edwardm9227]

@@EXOVCDS I did and it didn't ☹ can smell fuel though?

[@EXOVCDS]

@@edwardm9227 then it might not be a hall sensor issue. Could be the coil itself then. The ignition module is what sends a signal to the coil... and the injectors / ECM gets a signal from the coil negative side. Since the injectors are firing, the ignition module should be ok.

[@edwardm9227]

@@EXOVCDS replaced the coil!

[@EXOVCDS]

Hmm... let me think about it more.

[@MarcusRoper171]

To my knowledge, the cylinders are numbered from vehicle-right to vehicle left, i.e. from timing belt (#1) to flywheel (#4). The spark plug lead for cylinder #1 is normally at the vehicle-front of the distributor cap. So everything appears to be perfectly normal here. (Speaking from a frame of reference of South African VWs, and also German VWs.)

[@EXOVCDS]

Mark Rohwer Interesting... Yes, #1 is closest to timing belt, but all the distributors (on these 4 cyl engines) that I have ever worked on, have had #1 at the 12 O'clock position. It doesn't really matter, as long as the cam / crank are timed correctly with the distributor... so you could have the rotor pointing at 3 O'clock, 6 O'clock or 9 O'clock, as long as the valve / crank timing matches that position. Thanks for watching & taking the time to comment!

[@EXOVCDS]

Mark Rohwer fkh161.ca/VW/Number1.jpg

[@MarcusRoper171]

***** One picture says more than a 1000 words... You're absolutely right. I just went and checked on my own engine (engine code HM, South African model "Fox", being a face-lifted Jetta 1 with a Golf 2 engine). Indeed, as you wrote, spark-lead #1 connects to the distributor cap closest to the cylinder head, i.e. at vehicle-rear, or as you also called it, 12 o'clock. My apologies! I now realise I had the 4 cylinder VW confused with my other car, a 5 cylinder Audi (engine code AAR), longitudinally mounted, where the notch for cylinder #1 on the distributor body is facing the vehicle front. Anyhow, I was actually surfing youtube for hints on a sporadically spongy brake pedal. Looking for info on either bleeding master cylinder (but I've done a complete bleed of master and wheel cylinders), or replacement of master. Any tips welcome... Thanks for putting up such great videos. Kudos to you!

[@EXOVCDS]

Mark Rohwer No need to apologize... I'm not always correct, I was surprised to hear so, that's why I looked for a service manual image. Make sure that the rear shoes & hand brake are adjusted correctly... back off the handbrake first, adjust the shoes (pull down the self adjuster (if it has one) through one of the wheel bolt holes in the drum and then adjust the hand brake. Too much brake pedal free play can also cause soft / low / spongy pedal feel.

[@shumanimushavhela2152]

Hi Marcus. Any advice on my polo similarly the same engine but not starting, hall sensor seems fine and I am in S.A. The spark is present and timing is good but car just stopped running and won’t start. There is compression as well.

[@armandonika]

Hi Thomas nice vid, you could have done a bypass test using a test light putting ground or power at the signal wire without the "new" distributor don't you?

[@EXOVCDS]

Yes of course... I have shown that many times in other videos. A simple paper clip that touches the center pin to ground also works, but a test light is safer (less current rush).

[@armandonika]

+Thomas EXOVCDS thank you Thomas!

[@MtnSquirrel_]

I don't know if you're going to see this but on my 96 Cabrio 2.0 it has an intermittent problem it cranks up and runs fine but it will lose spark at the ignition coil sometimes and becomes a crank no start. sometimes it will crank back up after it dies and some times it has to sit a little bit then it will crank back up the only code that is present on the ecm is P0341 which is dealing with the Hall effect sensor i think any tips on what this could be thanks. I like your videos I've seen so far.

[@EXOVCDS]

The hall sensor code could be because distributor timing is out or because the hall sensor is bad (the ECM does not need the hall sensor signal for the engine to run... you can disconnect it and start the engine, so the distributor hall sensor can be ruled out as the cause). When it stalls out / does not start... is the check engine light on in the dash when the key is ON? If not, then you might have a bad 109 ECM power supply relay. If the light is ON, but you have no spark (or rpm signal), then I would suspect the crankshaft position sensor. Thank you for watching!

[@MtnSquirrel_]

@@EXOVCDS Thank you I appreciate the advice

[@yamahchopper]

I use a tool that checks spark, when the car turns over dash lights stay on.and yes the Rotor is turning, I put brand new fule pump in to because that was out.then I got the jetta running next day lost all spark

[@EXOVCDS]

Do you have a scan tool that can show live engine data? When cranking, is the rpm gauge / needle moving? Key ON, does it vibrate? You need to make sure that the crank sensor is producing a signal that the ECM is receiving. No crank sensor signal = no rpm signal = no spark = no injector pulse = no start. Crank sensor should produce a 2.6VAC signal when cranking. Wiring problem or a bad instrument cluster can cause no starts... lots of things need checking. =(

[@oddiseus]

Hey great video btw!! I am registering about 5000ohms from the ignition coil ( negative in the center hole and positive on the post) But I dont get spark from the wires just like in this video. What should I test first before assuming this hall sensor is bad? Or is this the common problem with these things? Thanks in advance for your help.

[@EXOVCDS]

Briefly touching the center hall sensor connector pin to ground... is the quickest way to check for spark. If you have spark when briefly touching the center pin to ground, then the coil is good. Watch the following video and do the same on your hall sensor plug. Let me know what the results are: (old video with bad lighting, sorry) kzbin.info/www/bejne/b2aznJqJltuCedE

[@yamahchopper]

Your other video nailed my problem

[@EXOVCDS]

Yes, but you still need to find the reason! =(

[@EXOVCDS]

Jimmi Conwey Looks like it is the same (image search)... so it should work. Your distributor has a vacuum pod attached?

[@jimmiconwey]

***** Hi,no he does't have one,i've been searching for pic's well some of them have 2 or 3 holes on the side but my do have 3 on the top exactly as your on the clip.OK I bought one just now on Ebay but images are more like generic ones,i let you know a.s. i will recive ,thanks again,you very kind,cheers ;)

[@EXOVCDS]

Jimmi Conwey The older distributors have the legs that get mounted to the side of the distributor: www.onlinecarparts.co.za/en/electrical-electronic/382-vw-golf-jetta-kombi-distributor-pickup-sensor-hallsender-oe-034998065.html The newer distributor can use a smaller hall sensor: www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Golf/EngineElectrical/45/2

[@regnice01]

Thank you for the videos and the audio!

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you for watching & listening!

[@laurynasmotekunas7095]

Hi, I have the same type of distributor in a Pinto engine transit with CFI, so if there is no spring clip on a drum, the only way to get to the hall sensor is by removing the distributor and removing the whole shaft?

[@EXOVCDS]

Yes.

[@Krishentv]

i have a 1990 mk2 8v digi fuel i injected and my idle is a little rough when cold. When warmed up its fine. Then at high rpms in 4th and 5th it loses power and if i floor it it backfires and then starts getting power. Also i have long starts when cold unless i give it gas. Do you think its the hall sender as well? IS that why rmps bounce?

[@EXOVCDS]

@Krishentv Does the distributor have a vacuum pod on it? Probably not. I just need to make sure. Yes, the hall sensor could be the cause / have a problem. The best way to test it is with an oscilloscope to view the waveform. If you don't have access to a scope, replace the sensor to see what happens / if things get better. Check the fuel pressure regulator to see if it is leaking fuel into the small vacuum hose that is attached to it. It could be that leaking fuel is the reason for the running issue & hard starting.

[@muhammedbelen3475]

Teşekkür ederim Thomas Türkiye de pek bilgi sahibi değiliz bu konuda yardımcı oldun bana polo classic aracımın tamirinde

[@EXOVCDS]

izlediğiniz için teşekkürler

[@andreasdahl717]

wow! what a great feeeling to get it starting again. Might have the same issue with my T25, 1.9l Gas, 84, Pierburg van. Today it was running perfect. Did som e maintenance to the windshield flusher. tried to start her up agin, NO spark. Cranking, no spark at all. All grounds are ok, all cables are ok. Hmm. Crappy Sunday. hehe. Power to the coil, ground to the coil ok. question, at the other end of the Hall Sensor, on my van, its mounted on the left side of the engine compartment. What is that piece called in english? engine control? I think it tells the distributor, when to spark? My mechanic friend told me its maybe broken. or the coil is gone

[@EXOVCDS]

Andreas Dahl could be. Key on, remove the distributor plug. Briefly ground the middle pin of the distributor harness plug connector. Every time the middle pin is touched to ground, you should get a spark from the coil. If no, then the coil or ignition module is bad. If yes, then the hall sensor in the distributor is bad.

[@andreasdahl717]

Awsome! thank you! Ill try this after work tomorrow. You should consider a www.patreon.com/ account! Im sure you help out so many to keep their vans and cars rolling. I new at vanfixing and I could not own this van without help from you and other KZbinrs. It would get to expensive to let the mechanic workshops to do all the work a car like this need. Thank you Thomas!

[@andreasdahl717]

Ill test it tomorrow. Soon midnight here in Norway now :D I think maybe my mechanic friend tried that trick, but ill have another go at it :D

[@andreasdahl717]

ok, I removed the midle pin from the distributor and grounded it. as far as my knowledge goes its dead. I also did a ohm test to my coil and I got the readings i needed according to the manual. So if I can sum this up, It has to be the ignition module that i "a walling".

[@terryraymond7984]

Well now I can change my Hall sensor. I have a 1981 Rabbit Pickup that has the Hall sender

[@EXOVCDS]

If you can find one.

[@rodrigonieto8866]

Hello Thomas, I have a 1990 VW Corrado 1.8 G60 that is not having any spark. When I test the hall sensor with a different distributor I do see a spark from the cable that is coming from the ignition coil. However, When I replace/install the new distributor there is still no spark. you can only see the spark when I manually move the distributor but when the engine is craking there is no spark. When the engine is cranking the distributor is moving. what else can I do to figure out why I am not having any spark? Thank you

[@EXOVCDS]

If you have spark when spinning the distributor, you should have spark when the distributor is in the engine. Are you sure that the timing is correct? Post a video so that I can see how you are checking / testing things.

[@stevee4444]

the duff hall sensor was shorted eh? That's why you got test light on pos and neg at first test?

[@EXOVCDS]

You need to check the power & ground at the hall sensor connector... with the key ON and a test light. Is that what you meant?

[@charlielimon2202]

Great video but I have tried for 2 hours to knock the securing pin on my distributor out with a punch but it will not budge. Yes I am hitting the smaller end...How did you get it out so easily? Any help appreciated. Thanks

[@EXOVCDS]

Make sure that the other end is not sitting on something (preventing the pin from moving). I can only suggest to use a sturdy punch and a big hammer.

[@charlielimon2202]

Thanks Thomas, still no go, I am going to get it pressed out at our local engineering shop.

[@EXOVCDS]

OK.

[@dad23boys]

I have an 88 Golf 1.8 8V with 5 speed manual trans and digifant II. It has a no spark situation the following things have been replaced. Distributor, plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor button, coil, and ignition module. When you put a noid light on one of the injectors and try to start the engine the noid light will flash. Fuel pump is cycling on and off like it should when you turn the ignition switch on. When you first turn the ignition switch on you get one spark out of the coil wire then when you engage the starter and spin the engine no spark. I'm at the end of the rope trying to figure this one out.

[@EXOVCDS]

The ignition module ground wire is connected at the battery negative clamp... make sure that the connection is clean & tight.

[@dad23boys]

@@EXOVCDS checked that out. Ohmed the wire between the ground battery cable and the terminal on the ignition module will a DVOM and there was some resistance there. Cleaned the terminal at the battery cable and got a no resistance from the meeter so I thought ah ha that’s it. But when I tried it it’s still doing the same thing. Spark when you first turn the ignition switch on but when you engage the starter nothing. Oh well back to the drawing board. Thanks for the help.

[@EXOVCDS]

@@dad23boys leave the key in the on position, Trans in neutral and activate the starter directly at the starter. This will rule out the ignition switch as the cause.

[@dad23boys]

@@EXOVCDS Good idea but same results when I tried it. I’m starting to think either the bad ground fried the ignition module both the old and new one or the new one I got is a dud.

[@EXOVCDS]

Does the car have a tachometer? Anything that receives a "tach" signal could affect spark production. Disconnect the instrument cluster, remove the fuel pump relay (bypass it with a fused jumper wire)... and check again.

[@robertk9043]

My 92 Golf passed the spark test. Cranks but won't start. Every thing else checks out. Now I'm going to take a look at the transfer pump.

[@EXOVCDS]

Fuel pump relay is also common with age.

[@robertk9043]

The fuel filter was the original that I changed today. It was black .in there for 24 years, 170,000 miles. Timing belt was old, so installed a new one, set timing from scratch. Double checked all timing marks-OK.Did a fuel volume test and it filled a liter container in about 40 seconds.Now turning my attention to the seat belt ignition interlock.I have spark I blew out the old fuel filter and the gas was black. The gas coming into my test container was clean. Started to take several cransk, more each day, since last Friday. By Monday it would not start.

[@EXOVCDS]

robert keezer How strong is the spark? Are you getting injector pulse? Seatbelt will cause a no-crank... if it cranks, it's not an interlock issue.

[@robertk9043]

I have strong spark.But today I discovered that I have no voltage at the fuel rail The plugs are dry. I squirted gas into each cylinder, and it fired briefly.Now charging the battery back up .and looking at the diagram, which shows the ECU supplies power to the fuel rail, and the ground. I thought there was 12 volts on the positive side when you turn on the key, and that the ECU controls the duty cycle of the injectors through the ground.

[@EXOVCDS]

robert keezer Injectors get power from the fuel pump relay... yes, the ECM grounds the injectors to fire them.

[@Emilosu12]

I hope you would like to help me.. Hi! I have an 91 golf mk2 1.6 PN with pierburg 2ee carburettor. The rpm s are fluctuating a little bit at idle and when i m driving and disengaging the clutch, the rpm s drop a little low and then comes back at 950 (example: i m in 3rd gear at 2500rpm and when i press the clutch the rpm s are going to 450-500 and comes back at 950). What problem do you think i have?

[@EXOVCDS]

"Feedback" carburetor (O2 controlled)? We never had Carbureted mk2 vehicles in Canada (that I can remember)... so I have little info on that, sorry.

[@Bigrigmig1]

A little late here but I have a question for you thomas... I own a 1991 golf 1.8 and every time it rains and moisture is in the air I loose spark. I remove my distributor cap and it seems dry as a bone. Not sure why this keeps happening. I have new plugs and a new ignition coil. Help!

[@EXOVCDS]

Spray the ignition components with a water spray bottle (mist form). Any component that causes rough running or visible spark, is a weak component and needs to be replaced.

[@wolfganghoffmann7731]

Very helpful, great job!

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you and thank you for watching!

[@mymixin8852]

hi there, 91 vw golf gl.i need a hall sensor,where can I get one? thanks in advance from texas

[@EXOVCDS]

It might be easier / cheaper to replace the complete distributor. I'm still at work, but can post the part number (for the sensor) later today... after work, so you can search the web for one.

[@mymixin8852]

Awesome. I'll wait for the part #. Keep up the great work

[@EXOVCDS]

Had some time.... this is for NON vacuum advanced applications (no vacuum pod on distributor): 052 998 065

[@mymixin8852]

Thomas EXOVCDS cool..mine doesn't have a vacuum pod.

[@a2jettagli]

Would this cause intermittent constant misfire? My 85 Jetta starts with a permanent misfire and than sorts itself or when running after about 15 mins. Occasionally it does sputter at low rpms but a quick Rev helps it. I hear an electric sparking sound near the spark plugs when it does it.

[@RSx94]

I adjusted the idle screw on my Weber carb the otherday so it took around 900RPM when idling, & ever since it's been jumping & shit when I turn the engine on when its cold. The choker (manuel) doesn't seem to work and I have to floor the gas pedal to keep it alive. It's like its drowning itself or something & when the engine is warm, then there is nothing at all? Do you have any idea about whats going on? I bought some new sparkplugs, because I thought they could be the reason.

[@EXOVCDS]

Turn it back to where it was to see if it makes a difference. Are you sure you moved the idle speed screw... not the throttle screw? I Haven't worked on carburetors for 15 years... find a good webber service manual and check all the adjustments.

[@RSx94]

I'm pretty sure that it was the idle screw, because the RPMs rose as I adjusted it (warm engine)

[@Mavura1]

I will look to it and get back to, Thanks

[@terryraymond7984]

Will golf Hall sending Distributors work on older Rabbits that use a Hall sending Distributor

[@EXOVCDS]

The early hall sensors have an oval connector. 85> have a square-ish one.

[@khathutshelosekhwari5861]

Hi Thomas I have polo playa 1999 model 1.6 it consuming lot of oil , someone one told me it could be piston rings warn out other says it could be valve seal , the car does not smoke as far as I know what could it be the problem?

[@EXOVCDS]

Could be either of the two or both. Valve stem seals is the easier place to start with (for rings, you have to remove the cylinder head). After the seals have been replaced, drive it for a few months to see if it made a difference. If you haven't tried oil additives yet, you can try that first. Some oil additives are able to soften valve stem seals... which will allow them to seal against the valves better. If valve guides are worn, even new seals might not help. Make sure that there are no external oil leaks... before you (or someone else) start taking things apart.

[@mohamedkdes6826]

I have seat ibiza 6k 1997 with no spark coning out from ignition coil, even though ignition coil was tested in a similar vehicle! Please advice

[@EXOVCDS]

I don't have any info on that vehicle / engine (I'm in Canada... we don't have Seat vehicles). If it is similar to VW's of that year, then yes, I can help. Post a video on your channel so that I can see the engine and how you are testing things. Then I can tell you what to do / what to check.

[@johnhayes9437]

I have acquired an 87 GTI project which has an intermittent no start. I noticed the fuel gauge doesn't work when it doesn't start so am considering the wiring/plug to the in tank pump and gauge. It has been sitting for quite a while and got it running to get some fresh fuel in the system. Runs rough, stalls, surges.... not sure if fuel or the in tank pump . Can hear the fuel pump when key is turned on. BTW, do the fuel pumps shut off when fuel pressure is reached with key on and not running in the CIS-E system ?? With a name like CIS, I think it may never shut off when powered. Seems like a good engine, runs OK when warmed up but car needs attention

[@EXOVCDS]

CIS-E is (can be) a bit of a pain to work with. Fuel pump relay will prime / run both pumps for a couple of seconds when the key is turned ON. Key ON, when the fuel gauge does not work, is the oil light & battery light ON? A common problem is the ignition switch. When you turn the key to crank, the ignition power supply can cut out and the engine will just crank and crank. Make sure that both pumps run. The in tank pump is a low pressure pump 7psi or so. If the main pump is noisy, odds are that the transfer pump is no good. Remove the transfer pump to check the inside of the fuel tank. Here's a website with lots of info: www.cabby-info.com/index.htm Getyourself a Bentley Service manual if you don't already have one: bentleypublishers.com/volkswagen/repair-information/vw-jetta-golf-1985-1992-repair-manual.html

[@johnhayes9437]

Thanks Thomas. I suspect you are right about the lift pump and likely the ignition switch too... the car has just over 300000 kms on it so lots of use. I have a new lift pump and a complete wiring harness from an 86 golf... so the ignition switch will likely be the same ??? hhmmmmm maybe not ...because of the CIS and CIS-E differences... I know the oil light is working because i see it go out with the extended cranking,... but not sure about the battery light..( I don't think it is though if I remember right ). I have a Bentley and some limited experience with VW A2's from back in the day when junk yards were full of them. I can hear the main pump so that means the lift is intermittent or dead

[@EXOVCDS]

Ignition switch should be the same... wiring harnesses will be different. When it doesn't start, leave the key ON, transmission in neutral and energize the starter manually under the hood. If she starts like that... ignition switch, if no... more testing / checking. Sounds like you have everything you need to bring her back to her full glory! =)

[@johnhayes9437]

OK, I'll try that before I dig into the ignition switch. I've been very busy driving heavy trucks for the last 18 years... the VW was part of my evolution as a driver :) It is a nice car...no dents/damage, alpine white with original seats in good condition.. solid body and k frame with only minimal floor issue. All her parts are there. Lift pump first....thank you Thomas

[@edgarcastaneda9086]

Great video as always Thomas, can a cam sensot cuase a no spark condition on a AFC engine 1997 Audi A4?? i replaced a cranck sensor but a dont have spark yet, i have voltage and ground on both sensor and a 5 volts signal unplugged. What elese can you advise me to test and look?? does the immobilizer can be an issue for a no start. it cranks but no start and i don´t hear injectors clicking and a do have volatage on injector. thanks for your time and help

[@EXOVCDS]

Some of the early V6 engines will not start if a cam signal is missing. The engine will continue to run if the sensor fails while the engine is running, but won't restart . The 5v signal (center wire) should switch from 0 to 5v while the engine is cranking. Does it? If not, the sensor is bad or the camshaft is not turning.

[@edgarcastaneda9086]

@@EXOVCDS ohh didn't check for oscillation, I'll that check. You mentioned the ignition module in your video, I checked mine the one mounted on the air filter box and I have battery voltage on the 3 pins harness side, don't know what to measure or expect on the 4 pins side. So there's no way the key has lost programming my key is the basic without keyless entry.

[@EXOVCDS]

I don't think it's an immobilizer issue. The ignition module sends a voltage to the coils... also an on/off signal (can't remember the voltage right now. Could be 5v).

[@edgarcastaneda9086]

@@EXOVCDS thanks Thomas I'll check for the can signal. Hope that solves my problem :(

[@edgarcastaneda9086]

hey Thomas once again bothering you with another question. for swap a computer ECM from a second hand computer do i need to do some coding or something like that with a scanner or VAG com cable? is for the same car i told you about the sensor before AFC engine 2.8L. I do some homework and i found out that i dom´t have voltage readings at the crank and engine speed sensors, and both sensor share the same feed from de computer. I have voltage readings entering the computer but not going out to the sensors.Got 12volts on the feed wire to the ECM on the ¨A¨ conector the red/blue wire and 12 volts on the red wire. Also checked for other power wirre in the ¨B¨ connector black/blue wire and i have 12 volts. I checked all the feed power entering the ECM as i looked the diagrams. The ¨B¨ connector where the Cam sensor is connected it has good voltage so thats why the cam sensor is working and pulling it down and a have square wave form 0 to 5 volts.

[@erickhoxha5883]

My Golf 3, 1993 suddenly stops running. I replaced the last hall sensor 2 years ago, now it s got same problem because it was used

[@EXOVCDS]

It will start again after the engine has cooled off? Then yes, it could be a bad "used" hall sensor.

[@erickhoxha5883]

@@EXOVCDS Yes, but I can keep running for a while if I remove the plug and put it back on. I hope I can find a spare part to replace it.

[@EXOVCDS]

@@erickhoxha5883 I don't know what you mean by that... Post a video so that I can see.

[@erickhoxha5883]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/fpixhJuBZbOhh6s

[@WaterlooCedarFallsSewingStores]

I have an 87 Jetta 1.8 auto trans. When it reaches running temp the spark is erratic and it refuses to run. Cylinders seem to fire randomly. New accumulator, ignition controller, air filter, distributor, cap, rotor and spark plugs. Any suggestions?

[@EXOVCDS]

What is fuel pressure / control pressure... when cold & warm?

[@arthurdejager1775]

Thanks dor your vid it hellped a million u truly spoiled me😂

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you fro watching!

[@tonymorales3019]

Where do you recommend me to buy the whole sensor for my Volkswagen golf car

[@EXOVCDS]

It will be easier to find a complete distributor than a sensor. Year, make, model, engine?

[@ΧατζηδακηςΒαγγελης]

Hi Thomas l have a golf mk3 1996 1.6 8v AFT engine and the car runs but the rpms stop at 5000rpm and the obd tells me this message (hall sensor out of limit) what it could be wrong???? I don't think that the hall sensor is broken but the engine has lose the timing please tell me what you think.. Thanks alot greetings from Greece

[@EXOVCDS]

Your engine has a crankshaft position sensor & a hall sensor for the distributor (camshaft). Most likely the hall sensor is bad and that is the reason the ECM is limiting power. Check your distributor hall sensor the same way as I do in this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d2e7h2iuZZpjasU The sensor is in a different location, but it's the same operation. With the engine running.. the center wire should have a voltage that fluctuates. If yes, sensor is OK but timing needs to be adjusted. If NO voltage is fluctuating, then the sensor is bad. Let me know what your test results are.

[@getsudatensho]

Hi sir i dont know if tou will resd this i have a 2009 jetta 2.0 car cranks but i got no ppwer to any of the coils any ideas what if could be? Thank you

[@EXOVCDS]

When you turn the ignition key to ON... is the check engine light in the dash on? It should be. Do you know the engine production code? Is it CBP? So that I can look for a wiring diagram of your engine. Is it this engine? kzbin.info/www/bejne/j6iWpaitedWNeKc

[@immanuelkatonyala9536]

hi tomas, very nice video. I however have no power on the positive side of the hall sensor clip, what could be the issue. Where does the positive side cable terminate so i can maybe trace it to see if intact. i even tried continuity and there is none

[@EXOVCDS]

Year, model, engine?

[@immanuelkatonyala9536]

its a citi golf 2007 south african, engine agy115473

[@EXOVCDS]

@immanuelkatonyala9536 does the oil light, alternator light & check engine light (if it has one) come on in the dash when the key is in the on position?

[@immanuelkatonyala9536]

Yes they do come on

[@EXOVCDS]

@immanuelkatonyala9536 the hall sensor receives power from the "onboard power supply control unit" (according to the wiring diagram I am looking at). Check fuse 32 (10A). I don't know if the hall sensor is supposed to have power when the key is on... we don't have the AGY engine in Canada.

[@yamahchopper]

I have no spark, replaced crank sensor and coil,my cap and rotor looks pretty burnt, is this a good sign my hall sensor is out? the car in the past would miss fire, then be ok for weeks

[@EXOVCDS]

What year vehicle & engine... this video is of about an A2 / mk2 1984 to 1992 VW Golf / Jetta that don't have crank sensors.

[@RonaldDKNchabeleng]

Hi I have a 2004 VW Citi Golf 1.6i using fuel injector. When I start it, it idles for seconds then cuts off. I think is a spark problem. I have checked and changed Coil, Distributor, Fuel Pumb. The car uses detector boxes (after market stuff) instead of computer box. Please help.

[@EXOVCDS]

I just replied to you on my forum... there is no need to ask me the same question via more than one social media.

[@Airbuss07]

Thomas, do you have a part number and where to order the hall sensor from? Info appreciated Manfred

[@EXOVCDS]

Use these part numbers to do a google search: Hall sensor: 052 998 065 A complete distributor: 037 905 205

[@iseeu5212]

I have a 86 scirocco cis lambda, rough idle and stalls,when I'm checking power and ground at the hall sensor with a test light, I get a nice bright light, but when I check power it seems dim, checked power coming out of the spark control module also dim, is that normal for this vehicle? also when checking for spark I get a orange spark?

[@EXOVCDS]

Not a hall sensor / ignition module issue if it is running (in my mind)... is it better when warm? Are both fuel pumps working correctly? What is cold & warm fuel pressure at the fuel distributor?

[@kevingarcia1872]

i got a 83 vw rabbit L 1.7L im not getting any spark to the motor it turns over i changed the coil im getting power from the coli but the distributor is not send the spark to the wires i dont know what it could be i wanted to know if you a website were i can get a good distributor for my rabbit ?

[@EXOVCDS]

Breaker points in the distributor or electronic distributor like in this video? Did you follow the instructions in this video? Did you have power & ground at the distributor harness plug? Did you get spark when you briefly grounded the center hall sensor pin? If yes, then you don't need a distributor. If no, you might have an ignition module problem.

[@tylerboatsman]

hi I have a 1981 vw rabbit convertable with a 1.6 in it and it cranks over but I have no spark I replaced the coil and still no spark I'm wondering if it is the hall sender and was wondering if you know how I can get a new one with out replacing the distributor

[@EXOVCDS]

Are you sure that it has a hall sensor in the distributor? 81 could still have points as well. Does the distributor have 1 or 2 vacuum hoses attached to it?

[@tylerboatsman]

Thomas EXOVCDS yes it has two hoses

[@EXOVCDS]

This one might work: www.vanagain.com/shop/distributor-parts-set-with-hall-sender/ Contact the seller and ask if it will work for your application: www.vanagain.com/contact/

[@Thecrowmotorsports]

My 1.8 MK1 gti has the same ploblems, i have a no crank no start, it has new battery alternator, starter, ignition switch and I can’t find the problem

[@EXOVCDS]

No crank is different from no spark.

[@EXOVCDS]

Turn the ignition on, transmission in park or neutral, energize the starter manually at the starter solenoid ... what happens?

[@newvisionphotos]

Where did you buy the hall sensor? I tested my coil and hall sensor according to the Bentley manual and the hall sensor failed the testing.

[@EXOVCDS]

Hall sensor plug disconnected.... key on... briefly touch your test light to the center pin of the hall sensor connector... you should hear spark & injector pulse. If NO, then it's not a hall sensor problem. If you get spark & injector pulse, but nothing when the plug is connected to the sensor, then yes... you need a sensor (unless the timing belt is broken and the distributor is not spinning). Google search this part number to find one... sometimes it's easier to find & buy a complete distributor. 052 998 065

[@Verschlimmbesserung]

Is the signal from the Hall sensor going to the ECU?

[@EXOVCDS]

Yes & no... depends on the system. Could be going to an ignition module first.

[@terryraymond7984]

I assume the older Rabbit hall senders are similar?

[@EXOVCDS]

Vacuum pod distributor or no?

[@carlover9764]

Hello. I have a golf 2 1.8 carb I check distributor it has play when i pull up rotor Its good or bad

[@EXOVCDS]

That's ok. The cap will keep the rotor down.

[@carlover9764]

Thank you so much

[@Candydancer2010]

Would there be something else wrong if you cant get it spark after trying a different newer distributor Hall sensor?

[@EXOVCDS]

Yes, timing belt, ignition module, engine computer (if the ignition module is inside instead of outside), wiring problem etc. What car? what Year? what engine?

[@Candydancer2010]

Thomas EXOVCDS Its a 86 jetta GLI. My husband replace the computer and New ignition coil.

[@Candydancer2010]

He replace all the grounds

[@EXOVCDS]

When you crank the engine with the key... does the battery & oil light go out right away, or do they stay on? Any aftermarket tachometers? Is the ignition coil ok?

[@don3293]

Help! My 92 Jetta MK2 now stalls after 5-10 minutes of driving, then it may not start again for some time. My VW mechanic told me there is NO spark and NO power. But unable to locate the real problem. My neighbour mechanic told me the problem might be the distributor as there is spark to the ignition coil but seems to be lost between the coil and distributor. Not sure if I should start buying some new parts or take it somewhere and pay $90.00/hour! any thoughts?

[@EXOVCDS]

The hall sensor in the distributor could be failing... the next time the engine dies / won't start, disconnect the hall sensor at the distributor. Remove the coil wire from the center of the distributor and place it 1/8" to 1/2" from a clean metal surface of the engine. With the key in the ON position, use a test light (attached to battery -) and briefly touch the center pin of the disconnected distributor harness plug. Each time you briefly touch the test light to the center pin... you should see a spark jump from the coil wire and you should hear the injectors click. If yes, but you don't get spark when the hall sensor is plugged in & the engine is cranking, then the hall sensor is bad. If you do not get spark when manually triggering the ignition module at the hall sensor harness plug... then the issue is not the distributor hall sensor.

[@don3293]

Thanks Thomas! I will keep your youtube channel bookmarked. Its hard to find anyone who knows anything about VW MK2 Jettas! I have learned a lot from watching your videos.

[@jakes4966]

in my 1987 jetta 1.8 I'm having a problem with my tachometer, it reads when is us cold outside and when it gets warmer or I park it for a minute the tach drops dead and never reads again u til it's cold outside again, do you know what would cause this? or where the rpms are senced? if you could get back to me I would greatly appreciate it!

[@EXOVCDS]

Jake Stanger Most likely a connection issue in the back of the instrument cluster (tachometer / circuit board). The tach gets a signal from the ignition coil... you can trace the problem with a test light. When the tach does "not" work, remove the instrument cluster and check for a "signal" at the main harness connector (engine running). I would have to check which wire it is... but all you have to do is touch each wire / pin with a test light and see which one causes the light to "flicker". If the light flickers, then you know that the signal is getting to the connector, then the problem has to be with the cluster (bad connection). If none of the wires / pins cause the light to flicker, then you need to trace the wire to the fuse box (from the ignition coil)... usually a green wire, and from the fuse box up to the instrument cluster connector.

[@jakes4966]

Hmm, could it possibly be a fuse? Or a broken wire or a bad coil

[@EXOVCDS]

Jake Stanger Fuse - no, since it works now and then. When a fuse blows, it usually stays blown. Broken wire, bad connection - yes (most likely in the instrument cluster). Bad coil - no, since the engine still runs. If the engine does not run when the tach is not working, then it could be a coil issue (gets hot and shorts out or opens out)... but probably not.

[@sBxTrEaTzZ]

My VW A3 1.8 1994 still doesn’t start. I’ve changed spark plugs, spark wires, coil wire, distributor cap, hall effect censor, rotor, distributor and the coil. Still no spark! What could it be? The car has been stalling and shuts it self off when running still. Used to start and turn itself off, but now it won’t start at all. Can it be the crankshaft position censor or the camshaft position censor? What else can lead to no spark? Battery is fully charged and the engine cranks nicely

[@EXOVCDS]

The A3 1.8L doesn't have a crankshaft position sensor. Have you checked the ECM relay? Fuel Pump relay? Fuel pump pressure? When it doesn't start, does it have spark? Does the hall sensor have power & ground? If you briefly ground the hall sensor signal wire, do you get spark? Is cam / crank & distributor timing actually OK? Lots to check. Get back to me when you have eliminated some of the items.

[@sBxTrEaTzZ]

Haven’t checked the ecm relay on my golf. The fuel pump is running all good and the relay is good. As mentioned the car had no spark at all so there is nothing related to the fuel system. The hall censor has power and ground. I changed the distributor today with a working hall censor in there. It’s hard to know if the timing is okay when the car won’t start. But i did everything like u did in the video by adjusting to TDC and placing rotor in right firing order to cylinder 1. How do i briefly ground the hall censor signal wire to check for spark? :) thanks for quick answers. Will have a look at the car again tomorrow

[@sBxTrEaTzZ]

Im 95% sure that it is the camshaft censor.

[@EXOVCDS]

Follow the steps in this video: (starting at 4:38) Key ON using a test light, let me know what you find. kzbin.info/www/bejne/jYPbn5x6a5igkKM

[@sBxTrEaTzZ]

yeah my hall sensor connector is okay. So what I did today was to test another distributor from a golf a2 with a good hall sensor. That didn´t work because I guess that distributor doesn´t fit correctly. So what I did was to replace the hall sensor in my original distributor and testet it without luck. I looked at the distributor and noticed something. The metal of the wheel inside the distributor that Is supposed to spin around the sensor between the magnets was bent! O_o So I bent it a little bit back to make it fit and now all of a sudden the car started! :D Must have been something wrong with the magnetism then? Can you tell me which distributors that will fit with my VW Golf a3 1.8 1994 from other cars? Because I'm thinking about getting one from another car :)

[@Kid20613]

Hey Thomas. Just wanted to know where i can find a hall sensor. My VW/Audi parts store can't find one either.

[@EXOVCDS]

+Kid20613 Year / model / engine?

[@Kid20613]

+Thomas EXOVCDS late 1990 jetta 8v

[@EXOVCDS]

+Kid20613 I'm still at work... will send more info later.

[@Kid20613]

+Thomas EXOVCDS Thanks!

[@EXOVCDS]

+Kid20613 A complete distributor might be a better way to go. We have suppliers that stock the sensors under these part numbers: 052 998 065 and 030 905 065 Do a Google search and I'm sure you'll find a retail outlet.

[@justinMacPhee]

i just got my part in and its only the black part, not the disc part. its like half of what you installed. does the disc need to be replaced?

[@justinMacPhee]

i got this part: bosch 1 230 329 062

[@EXOVCDS]

justin MacPhee If this is what you got www.germanautoparts.com/images/large/f76af10a18a62e0750df9956c5b50206.jpg and your distributor has 4 shutter windows, then yes, it will work.

[@justinMacPhee]

***** thats the part i got but the one inside the distributor now has wires going into the distributor. it looks like the one you used. i guess i will find out for sure when i pull it, but i didnt want to pull it before i had the part.

[@EXOVCDS]

justin MacPhee It does the same thing, just a smaller unit.

[@mduduzinkwali4155]

Hi man I've watched the video and tried to do as you've shown us but I'm still experiencing the same problem? Can you help me please 🙏

[@mduduzinkwali4155]

My car doesn't wanna start, it only gives the crank sound

[@EXOVCDS]

Post a video on your channel so that I can hear & see what it is doing. Then I will tell you what to do / check.

[@HPLCurt]

Hey Thomas, I have a 1990 Volkswagen Jetta. It's running in limp mode (rich) aka timing setting mode with the coolant temperature sensor unplugged. When I plug it back in the car bogs out and dies. Any idea why?

[@EXOVCDS]

Could be one of a number of things... similar cause : faulty fuel pressure regulator, faulty in-tank fuel pump, broken ECM ground wire at the cylinder head / coolant flange, ignition wire set (too much resistance), Air Flow Meter... etc ,you will have to check things over to find the cause. Let me know what you have checked and I'll suggest more.

[@HPLCurt]

things I've replaced and checked. new air flow meter, spark wires, spark plugs wr7dc+'s, rotor, cap, fuel filter, fuses, grounds cleaned and put back. no vacuum leaks that i can see or hear, it runs with the sensor unplugged which is better but doesn't solve the issue with the coolant temperature sensor when it's plugged in. then the engine shakes around like crazy then stalls.

[@HPLCurt]

***** It could be the fuel pressure regulator, i haven't checked that will see if that changes.

[@EXOVCDS]

Curtis Smith When they go bad, they can suck fuel through the vacuum hose... pull the hose and check for wetness... attach a pressure gauge at the end of the fuel rail, don't just replace parts.

[@EXOVCDS]

Curtis Smith If it is running LEAN, it will struggle to run... once you disconnect the temp sensor, it will run rich / better. Keep that in mind. You need to figure out if she is not getting enough fuel (bad pump or pressure regulator etc) or if she is getting too much fuel.

[@craigfowler2166]

Hi Thomas loved the video, I have a problem with my son's 1993 Mk3 Golf GTI 2E engine the problem is it ran then would judder and die then not restart, then after 10 mins restart and drive great. Then it kept happening more frequently, and now will not start at all! I checked and there was no spark, I can hear the fuel pump prime, but then no spark, so will crank but not catch, I changed the relay for the ECU, Changed the coil and still no spark except a poor spark, and on release of the key, so hot wired the car and still the same, haven't changed the Hall sensor, but have been told its the crankshaft sensor, (Impulse sensor) but I can't find it I have had the front mounting off and looked all around the flywheel but can't see any wires, please help, is it the Hall sensor or is it the Impulse sensor if so where do I find it, someone told me that a 2E doesn't have a crankshaft Impulse sensor, so I am lost

[@EXOVCDS]

If the hall sensor has 4 windows... then the sensor is bad (you don't have a crank sensor). Vehicles WITH a crank sensor only have 1 window in the hall sensor trigger wheel.

[@craigfowler2166]

@@EXOVCDS HI thanks for the reply I will check that tomorrow, I hope its that, as I had the front mounts off and found no wires or sensors anywhere! I will let you know tomorrow!!

[@EXOVCDS]

@@craigfowler2166 OK

[@craigfowler2166]

@@EXOVCDS Changed the Dizzy, you were right it had 4 windows, now I get a weak spark, (but it is rapid whilst starting), but still the car doesn't start, tried easy start, it never started, at a loss now, as I have tried everything, including hot wiring the ignition, changed the coil,Relays, leads and even tried a different ECU, not a clue where to go next!

[@EXOVCDS]

@@craigfowler2166 Aftermarket tachometer or other items installed? I think the Bentley Service manual has a pinout chart for checking power & grounds as well as resistances. Have you gone through those? If you crank the engine while holding the coil wire (the one that clips on the middle of the distributor cap) 1/8" from the cylinder head... how strong / weak is the spark? Can you post a video on your channel?

[@DonPaco.]

my dad has a 85 cabriolet last time we drove it was driving fine that was a couple months back car has been sitting for a while. we tried to start it recently and at first when turning switch on it would want to start but it wouldnt after a couple tries the engine didnt seem to be getting spark we replaced the starter but still no spark any ideas of what it can be ?

[@EXOVCDS]

If it runs for a second or so when the engine is cold... could be that it is only running off of the "cold start injector fuel spray". You need to check if the fuel pump(s) are running. Check fuse #18 (I think) for power while you are cranking. If no power, check the / bridge the fuel pump relay. Post a video on your channel so I can see what the engine does or does not do (how it behaves).

[@DonPaco.]

Thomas EXOVCDS i will upload video in a bit

[@DonPaco.]

Thomas EXOVCDS and no the engine doesnt want to start at all when we first tried to start it it did want to like if it needed starter fluid but after several tries when flipping the switch to start the car its just switching no ignition. everything has power radio and everything

[@DonPaco.]

video is uploaded

[@raulalbiter1078]

my car starts and runs but some times it yust stalls out and wont start. after some tryes it starts back up but it dose it agian after i drive it or turn it off and then i try to start it and it wont start can you help me thanks

[@EXOVCDS]

+Raul Albiter Check for spark when it stalls / does not want to start. Could be a faulty hall sensor.

[@890slay]

I have a similar problem. I replaced the distributor and the ignition coil on my Audi 80 B3, but still there's no spark. Could it be the ECU?

[@EXOVCDS]

Is the distributor turning?

[@EXOVCDS]

How many windows does the shutter wheel inside the distributor have? If you manually trigger the coil (via the distributor harness plug) can you get spark?

[@890slay]

Yes, I can get spark manually that way.

[@890slay]

The shutter wheel has 4 windows

[@EXOVCDS]

I don't have a wiring diagram for that engine... is it CIS or Digi?

[@casperakoma7273]

Very good video many thanks.

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you for watching!

[@VW19900]

That engine looks the same as in my 91 GTi. Is that a PB?

[@EXOVCDS]

***** Might have been an RV or PF

[@VW19900]

***** Ah okay, I forget that the US engines had a cat for emissions. They're a bit rare here in the UK, the most common are PB and KR 16V.

[@dopaminedreams11]

Hi, I have a question. I have 92' Golf mk3 2.0 8v. Few days ago it didnt want to start even tho it ran perfect night before. My distributor was dead so I replaced it with used one. Before that I tried cranking it a few times so i think I even flodded it a bit cuz spark plugs were really black so I cleaned them and now car starts it even idles good-ish, but when I press throtle my rpms wont go up at all, i hear slight ticking noise from engine and to make it even worse I saw my exhaust manifold heating up and slightly turning red ( this is all while car is idling ). I bet timing on my dizzy is wrong even tho I made sure couple of times that marks on cam, crank, fw and dizzy are all good. And yeah it was strange but when I was removing old dizzy it seemed like it wasnt lined up propperly even tho car was perfect in terms of running. While timing it ive put #1 at TDC rotating engine clockwise by hand and using a little help with wrench on cam gear bolt. One more thing, old and spare dizzy have 2 different style of hall sensors ( new one is "bigger" type that picks up signals from oposite side ) but its 4 window rotor so it shouldnt make any difference. So my questions are: - is it possible that Ive damaged my internals somehow or is the ticking noise comming from spark plugs? - is overheating manifold cause from bad timing? - can the "new" used distributor be reason i dont have any throttle response? I know its a long text but i hope you can help me somehow, if needed i can send you pics and videos. Thank you man

[@EXOVCDS]

Turn the engine to #1 TDC. Show me camshaft TDC mark, crankshaft TDC mark (at transmission / flywheel) and distributor rotor position when camshaft is at #1 TDC.

[@dopaminedreams11]

@@EXOVCDS Sure, where should I contact you?

[@EXOVCDS]

KZbin is great for posting video... or click on the fkh161 link in the description and then click on "tool request" to send me the pictures.

[@dopaminedreams11]

@@EXOVCDS Seems like I cant send you email on that email adress.

[@EXOVCDS]

@@dopaminedreams11 I get email daily.

[@thomasbovington3180]

That was awesome. Thank you so much.

[@EXOVCDS]

Thank you for the great comment... nice name!

[@oldshield]

do you have a hall sensor replacement in a vr6 vid?

[@EXOVCDS]

No, same principle as Golf, Jetta, Eurovan etc. Remove distributor Punch out roll pin from drive gear end Slide distributor shaft / trigger wheel out of distributor Remove hall sensor securing screws Remove hall sensor Install in reverse of removal

[@jeffhay2978]

Trigger wheel gets bent from trying to remove the rotor by prying it off with a screwdriver. It then starts rubbing on the hall sender and eventually ruins it. Definitely an intermittent issue !

[@EXOVCDS]

Yeah... prying is not a good idea, unless you do it carefully.

[@TheeGuitarWailingNJA]

Hey Thomas ! I have a question for you, I'm getting spark from the main coil but I'm not getting any spark to my wires to the spark plugs , I was thinking it was the hall sensor but I see that you had no spark in your coil. What could it be ? I'm using mk3 spark plug wires and I changed the spark plugs , also change the ignition coil , and the ignition control module .

[@EXOVCDS]

+L Geno (geetahwailingninja) What year vehicle? Is the distributor turning? Is the firing order correct?

[@TheeGuitarWailingNJA]

+Thomas EXOVCDS 1990 1.8 8v Vw Jetta . I believe so 1-3-4-2 right , and yes it's moving because the rotor rotates to a different spot each time I remove the cap

[@EXOVCDS]

+L Geno (geetahwailingninja) 1-3-4-2 is correct. How big of a spark can you get out of the coil wire? If it is weak, it can't go through the rest of the system. Are you sure the injectors are firing?

[@TheeGuitarWailingNJA]

+Thomas EXOVCDS yes , it might be a weak spark . Which leads me to think the mk3 wires have higher resistance causing the spark to be weak. It worked fine for a good 4 days . After that my engine just kept cranking , and then I realized the wires weren't getting a spark .

[@EXOVCDS]

+L Geno (geetahwailingninja) 2k to 6k ohm max per wire. Spark can ground out through the rotor... check it for carbon tracking.

[@BoggedBogdanoff]

I don't get a light on either side of the plug coming from my icm to the hall sensor when I turn the key on in my 1984 rabbit gti? Could you tell me what's wrong and possibly what to do? Thanks!

[@BoggedBogdanoff]

I have the wire of the test light clipped on the negative side of my battery

[@EXOVCDS]

Derick Christopherson Find a good wiring diagram and follow the flow of power from the battery to the ignition switch. Use the test light and check / confirm power at every splice. Your car might have "fusible links" in the engine by under the coolant reservoir (black Plastic cylinders spliced into the wiring). You should have power at the ignition switch, the black wire coming out of the ignition switch etc. according to the diagram. I didn't have time yesterday to look at a diagram specific to your car... will try to do so today.

[@BoggedBogdanoff]

***** thanks for the reply! We got it running, now we're trying to make the radiator fan cut on when it gets warm, I can't find the original plugs that go to the switch and fan, but we found a constant hot wire and attached it to the fan temp switch and the a wire from the other prong of the switch to the fan and the a ground to the fan. The fan works when we put the hot and ground directly too it, should we suspect the temp switch is not working? It's a single speed fan btw so there's only 2 prongs coming from both the switch and fan. Thanks again!

[@EXOVCDS]

Derick Christopherson The radiator / switch needs to get hot for the switch to work. Check that the lower hose gets warm. If not, then the thermostat is not opening. The switches can collect debris / deposits on its surface... remove the switch and wipe it clean, but at that point I would just put a new switch in. Where was the problem with the no power issue?

[@BoggedBogdanoff]

***** I didn't have a hot going to the coil haha, we found a hot that goes on when the ignition is on and wired it from that and now it starts perfect and idles great, i did put a new radiator in and transferred the switch too it, the cooling system is rusted from the previous owner not running coolant because of the radiator leak I sorta think maybe the switch got coated with rust which is causing it not too work, if all fails I may just put a switch in the dash too the fan that I can manually turn off and on, I would prefer not too though. We just converted it too a Weber carb if that matters? We just didn't really know how the cis fuel injection system works and I've read that parts on it can be expensive to maintain. it wouldn't stay running when we bought it and when it did run, it ran terrible

[@ghostrecon6381]

I have 90 vw golf 1.8 and it has fuel and spark(well spark is slow and orange looking). It cranks,but won't start. I replaced the water pump and timing belt. I fired it up and start for about 20 seconds,then died and never start again. I checked up the icm,pcm,hall sensor,fuel pumps(i don't hear the pump work when i open the driver door,but if i crank it up it will get fuel to the injectors) main and pre pump. I am stuck somewhere that i can't get it to start. Some help would be appreciate it.. Thanks so much

[@EXOVCDS]

Was the engine running fine before the timing belt was replaced? If yes, turn the engine by hand until the camshaft is at TDC, check that the distributor rotor is pointing at #1 and that the crankshaft is also at TDC. Send me pictures so that I can see what the camshaft, distributor rotor and crankshaft positions are.

[@ghostrecon6381]

@@EXOVCDS yes it was running before replacing the water pump and timing belt. Though, the vehicle owner told she took it to the carwash and washed the engine bay and didn't run until a few hours later. She brought the car the next day and was running a little rough. When i replaced the water and timing belt i had my crankshaft on TDC and my camshaft and the o.t line and the distributor right on #1 piston. Gired it up and run gor about 20 seconds then died. I replace the hall sensor and the icm thinking it was that,but it hasn't fired up since then. Check fuses and they look fine,relays and fine. I don't know if i am missing something?

[@EXOVCDS]

On old vehicles like this, fuel pump does not run when door is opened. Only when key is first turned on, during cranking and when the engine is running. Re-check your timing settings regardless... once you know they are OK, you can start hunting other reasons. Older vehicle have issues with the crank gear coming loose... slipping on the crankshaft, which causes cam / crank timing issues. As seen here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pZDFmYWko9-AjbM Hence, re-check all your TDC settings. Once TDC has been confirmed, you can chace spark or fuel... manually trigger spark by briefly grounding the center wire of the hall sensor connector... like this: (vanagon distributor, but same for this process for the Golf) kzbin.info/www/bejne/jYPbn5x6a5igkKM If you can get a spark to jump 1/2" or more, then the coil is OK. Check that all the ground wires are good and tight at the battery negative clamp (one of those ground wires is from the ICM / ECM). There are ground wires at the side of the intake manifold and or at the side coolant flange. Make sure that they are OK.

[@ghostrecon6381]

@@EXOVCDS thanks for the reply and i will check step by step every detail describe on your reply. I'll get back to you soon thanks

[@EXOVCDS]

OK.

[@ReaganHaertless]

the white part on the hall sender is cracked on my distributor do need to change the whole assembly..

[@EXOVCDS]

White part? Post a video so I can see. KZbin is great for that.

[@ReaganHaertless]

@@EXOVCDS the yellow plastic cover over the hall sender wires

[@EXOVCDS]

Vacuum advance distributor or no vacuum advance? Vacuum: i.ebayimg.com/images/g/fVEAAOSwpTFgU19-/s-l400.jpg No vacuum: s.alicdn.com/@sc04/kf/H174d0ac741f34e218607f5c0a1d058b9w.jpg_300x300.jpg The white / yellow (from age) plastic is just a dust cover. As long as it does not interfere with the spinning shutter wheel, or pinches wiring when it's moving (vacuum distributor), it's fine if it has a crack.

[@nemanjazivkovic2436]

i have golf 3 2.0 gti, when car is cold, it starts easily, but when warms up it shut down, and i can't start it until it cools down?

[@EXOVCDS]

Not sure... could be crankshaft position sensor.

[@nemanjazivkovic2436]

thank's, i'll check it.

[@lakshitharanasinghe3896]

Change the starter solenoid. Problem solved.

[@EXOVCDS]

+Lakshitha Ranasinghe starter solenoid is not gonna cause the car to "shut down"... try again.

[@NorthernPerformanceGroup]

Hay wondering if you can help me with my my mk3 2.0 aba just started this week misfiring and shaking the car running rough for about 2min then it runs fine I can't figure it out need help the timing is good distrubter cap and rotor is good no vacume leaks coil is good fule psi is good spark plug and spark plug wires are good I can't figure what is going on I really need help

[@EXOVCDS]

Cold start or every time the engine starts?

[@NorthernPerformanceGroup]

Only when the motor is 100% cold after siting all night

[@EXOVCDS]

2595cjp Does the engine start as soon as you crank or do you have to crank a while before it starts? Might be a temperature sensor issue... ECM thinks the engine is warm, so it supplies less fuel, which makes the engine run rough. Once warm, the engine runs good because it doesn't need extra fuel. I would have to view scan data and or ignition pattern on a scope to guess any better.

[@NorthernPerformanceGroup]

It starts right a way and idles at 1000 rpm not at 1200 rpm wich it normaly idles at when it starts then cuts down to 900 rpm

[@EXOVCDS]

2595cjp Try to pinpoint which cylinder(s)... maybe a funky injector spray on one?