Vw/Audi/Seat/Skoda Clutch Replacement

[@martybladh6878]

Did you remove inte drive shaft completly? Kinda urgent😅

[@DubworxMedia]

Sorry for the delay, it's possible without removing either, however, I used to remove the passenger driveshaft to save the headache, I've recently started removing the bottom arm front bolts (18mm) and moving the front of the bottom arm out to create space rather than removing any driveshafts, probably too late now but at least you know for next time.

[@THEPAKEFULL]

Hey, first thanks for the video. Just one question. I have a vw polo 1.4 tdi 65cv 2006 moteur BNM, and I need reef. for gearbox, can't find it. If you have one minute.... Thanks

[@DubworxMedia]

Hi, I'm not sure what you mean by ref. for gearbox.

[@THEPAKEFULL]

@@DubworxMedia sorry reference number or model.

[@DubworxMedia]

@@THEPAKEFULL the gearbox type is the first 3 of the part number on the top, flat area and the gearbox code is on the gearbox but location varies depending on the gearbox, it should be on the sticker under the boot floor

[@THEPAKEFULL]

@@DubworxMedia thanks for the information. I'll try to get the part number. Not easy for me (sister's car, she in Spain me in France) Keep going with your videos! And thanks again

[@DubworxMedia]

@@THEPAKEFULL no problem, I have a friend that is French so it it's easier to reply in French then I can get it translated no problem, get her to send you a picture of the sticker under the boot carpet

[@MiracleMitch]

Good video and something I need to do soon on my son's 2007 1.4 tdi Polo (BNM engine I believe) without a lift unfortunately. The release bearing is screeching worse than nails on a chalk board! I'd have put a blob of thick grease in the ball socket of the clutch lever fork before refitting, it's common for these types of clutch actuating mechanisms to develop a squeak over time if the ball and socket are left dry. Prevents corrosion there too if you live in a damp area or near the coast, like me. Would have been nice to have seen the way you manoeuvred the box out as ElsaWin - I have the VAG genuine online workshop manuals - tells you to remove the subframe which I am not keen to do if not necessary (although I have the special alignment pegs T10096, used on my Passat for doing such). Did you need to support the engine before taking the gearbox out or do the 3 cylinder engines weigh less and strain the engine mounts less? Might not be the same for me, although the layout looks very close to our Polo S, but for others what clutch kit did you use, how much was it and can you list the part number of the kit? Many thanks.

[@DubworxMedia]

Thanks for the comment, I've mever used grease on the clutch fork and never had an issue so far, the grease would probably melt and cause issues eventually like CV grease which is high temp but still melts once it's overused, as for removing the box it's easier if you remove the drivers side driveshaft cup, tilt the diff housing up and wiggle the box off and down, the engine I support regardless as with the TDIs the exhaust is at the back meaning the exhaust flexi will take most of the strain not the 1 engine mount left attached, for the kit it is a recon LUK clutch kit from a local company £45 for the 3 piece kit, seems cheap but I've used a few kits from them in various vehicles and they're still going years later, another thing to watch out for is snagging on/trapping pipes and wires etc, I broke the housing by leavering off it without realising, remove the drive shafts for the sake of undoing the balljoint and driveshaft nut, it saves a lot of frustration, let me know if there's anything else I can help with.

[@MiracleMitch]

@@DubworxMedia Many thanks for the reply. Nice tip on checking for snagging pipes and which way the box comes out as I have not done a Polo clutch before so just needed the extra reassurance. I have worked on dozens of cars over 40 years of DIY mechanics / engine building / gearbox repair, have access to most tools, but a 2 post lift is still my dream! £45 for an LuK reman kit, that's cheap (trade or retail)! Good video, deserves more views / likes 😁

[@DubworxMedia]

@@MiracleMitch Thanks, If you've got an engine support that goes over the top, i'd recommend using it because supporting it from the bottom makes the engine solid rather than being able to swing a little bit.

[@MiracleMitch]

@@DubworxMedia I have and will use., thanks.

[@clarestephanie5557]

Cant do it myself how much will the garage charge me ?

[@charleydarby5688]

Thousands of

[@autoh2039]

Awsome job, but I have to ask: How did you support the engine?

[@GeorgeWatson-gz9cz]

Jack on the sump is the most common method. Being a cast ally sump you should put a block of wood in between or you jack will go though.