VW Bus Restoration | Front Axle Part (1) - Rusty's front suspension Dismantled after 60 years, CT!

[@CTmoog]

Hello Everyone!!! Thanks for watching!!! - ＬＩＫＥ | ＣＯＭＭＥＮＴ | ＳＨＡＲＥ | ＳＵＢＳＣＲＩＢＥ | Press the bell Icon - THANK YOU!!!

[@davidheard4153]

I'm in the alignment business 73 yrs old worked on many VW jobs that is one of the best videos I've ever seen done great job!

[@Mikefngarage]

those old boge shocks ride the best if they are still good. smooth ride

[@CTmoog]

I can't imagine they are still good...? Have you ever rebuilt a front beam?

[@tmackinator]

The shims are used to set the front end camber by measuring the offset of the trailing arms and placing shims in front of and behind the link pin as shown on a chart for the VW. There are a specific number of shims that go on each link pin. The groove in the link pin is so you can turn the link pin after assembly.The bolt that you removed rides in he groove. This way you set the play in the link pin by adjusting the link pin by turning the link pin by means of the flats on the end.

[@robharris9656]

Shim arent actually for setting camber as much as it is to make up the offsets of the two trailing arms. If you dont put the right amount of shims you will bind up the suspension.

[@assessor1276]

CT - you are learning more each day - BUT - I urge you to make three key changes: 1) you have a shop manual - please use it so you know what you are getting into; 2) do not hit a ratchet handle with a hammer - use an impact gun or a longer breaker bar; 3) clean the parts before you start to disassemble them (simply soaking everything with WD40 is not a substitute for a good degreaser and a stiff brush). That horizontal “shock” is called a steering damper. It helps to keep the steering wheel from jumping around in your hands when you go over irregular bumps in the road. When you are separating those tie-rod ends - put the castle nut back on UPSIDE DOWN - and screw it down until the flat bottom of the nut is flush with the top of the rod end stud - and THEN hit it. Otherwise, you risk bashing the rod end stud and mushrooming it - and then not being able to get it out. Also, you are wrecking the end of your nice new plastic head hammer. I am amazed at how little rust is on the entire assembly. I suspect it has been rebuilt before and all you really need are the tie rod ends and the shocks (followed by a front end alignment). Be sure to use a torque wrench and all new cotter pins when re-installing the assembly onto the chassis. NEVER reuse a cotter pin. Also - those “washers” are actually shims and while I am not a VW expert, I’ll bet they are used to set the steering geometry (likely the camber) of the front wheels. You must keep them together - and in fact, the may need to be replaced or rearranged later when you do a front end alignment. I agree with the other viewer - leave the kingpins (steering knuckles) alone. Just pump some grease into the existing grease nipples and leave them entirely alone. I have to say again - please use your shop manual for these vehicles. Doing this type of work as an amateur without continual reference a manual is a BIG mistake.

[@joeblogs8193]

I agree with all that you say with one added thing. Tag and bag the parts as they are removed. Speaking as a professional motor mechanic, I can see straight away that CT is a novice and heavy handed. You never hit a ratchet with a hammer, respect the tools you use. I am glad you made some good remarks and it not only helps CT, but others aswell. Cheers

[@backyardkombi5466]

This whole axle restoration series has been incredibly helpful.

[@CTmoog]

Thanks man!

[@andrewpharmer5492]

Nice! I like this style of filming, it's like when you started the Rusty project about a year ago.

[@CTmoog]

Hey Andrew! Yes. I really like filming this way. It's really fun to edit. I will do more like this soon. Thanks man! Stay tuned!

[@pcarson1377]

Wow! I never thought the front suspension of an old bus could be so complicated. You’ve got your work cut out for you but I think you can handle it. Good luck CT and thanks for another cool video.

[@SladesVWBeetle]

That beam looks in pretty good condition! Your rolling along!

[@CTmoog]

Thanks brother!

[@JWClassicVW]

Great video brother, some good stuff here, love watching!!

[@JWClassicVW]

Definitely getting a sweat on pulling that thing apart!

[@graemehunter5403]

you are learning as you go. nice to see the tools and slow methodical progress without jump all over the place. :-) Buy label tags and write where they came from.

[@CTmoog]

Thank you! I really appreciate the support my friend! =)

[@graemehunter5403]

@@CTmoog really looking forward to see the progression. Many years ago a neighbor had an orange and white camper loved to see it out and the sound of that engine was lovely.

[@brianchisnell1548]

I have watched your vids. and enjoyed them all, but this one takes the cake. I have never needed to overhaul a front end, so this job is mysterious. I do know that you have to count the shims and replace them exactly as found for alignment. Admire you fearlessness and I subscribed. Cheers!

[@CTmoog]

Hello Brian! Wow, thank you man! I really appreciate that! That helps me stay motivated and keeps me going! Yes, it is a bit intimating but I figured now is the time to check everything and learn along the way. That is good to know about the shims! THANK YOU! =)

[@johnpaquin8041]

I liked seeing you take this apart I've never had one I ever had to take apart. I've been working on vw's all my life I worked on the first one when I was 12 years old and I'm 60 now still work on vw's was well as other stuff but back to the point I've worked 100s of vw's I've owned about 40 of them myself. And in all that time I never had a king pin front end. That I ever had to take apart as I had never found one that has worn out. I've only had to replace tie rod end wheel baerings brakes. But never have I found a worn out kind pin front end. So I liked watching us that this one apart I've never seem what one looks like in side thank you. Ps it looked like to me that your also as and is not worn out ether just new rubber parts is all your going to need for this none of the rest of the parts did not look to worn bad at all to me

[@brianchisnell1548]

I'm just like John. Never seen this before either. I understand the front end but never had the plums to pull one apart.

[@CTmoog]

Hello John! Sound like the front beam for the most part are pretty tough and don't wear so much. That is good to know. I'm glad you enjoyed the process. It was a lot of fun making it. Yes, it's doesn't look too bad. I'm going to order some parts today. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)

[@rnwagner]

That is a "King and Link" type suspension. The "King Pin" is the one the wheel axle pivots on. The "Link Pins" are the ones the suspension pivots up and down on. If there is no play in the King pin side to side. Leave them alone. Clean and grease. Otherwise you will have to have a machine shop or someone with the right tools to fit new bushings to new King pins. The link pins look liked there were needle bearings that came out with it. Clean them up and reuse if the is no significant wear on the pins and bearings. Be sure to acquire the correct grease for all these parts. You might check with a couple of shops to see what they recommend. Probably cant get the original kind VW used anymore. Or use a good quality marine grade grease since all the suspension may potentially have water on or around it in a storm. You are a brave soul tearing into all of this. Take plenty of pictures for reassembly. Good luck!!!

[@CTmoog]

That is is great advice my friend! Thank you!

[@JWClassicVW]

Great info there, I've always wondered what type of grease was ran in this older type of link pin suspensions. The few that I've pulled apart seemed pretty thick.

[@brettkoppe-eppokpassiveinc5822]

This video will be a massive help as my son and I tackle our "68 bus front suspension! Thank you!

[@michelecrown2426]

Thanks for taking us along on your learning journey. Might I suggest you use a breaker bar instead of beating on your ratchet wrench. And a power tool will help speed up the nut a bolt removal. Looking forward to the next segment.

[@mikejohnson5837]

Looks like replacing the shocks and tie rod bushings may be all that's needed. It will look great all painted up too! Looking forward to seeing it go back onto Rusty. Good progress CT!

[@CTmoog]

Hey Mike! Yes, it appears to be in great shape! Thanks brother!

[@ed389]

Love the 914. Nice videos on re-building suspension.

[@geoffreyjones2000]

The groove in the cross pin is a grease path and the washers/shims set the pre load sir, the brass bushings are pressed and reamed... I would leave the king pins alone

[@CTmoog]

Thank you sir! That is good to know.

[@JWClassicVW]

The whole carrier assembly looks to be in pretty good shape... nice!

[@outdooraf]

The sound of those birds in the background makes me wish for spring to arrive every day. I'm in upstate NY

[@mohameedaiameer9220]

Greetings your work is a slow time and takes a long time and thank you

[@idagotdinixa442]

Thanks for showing us all the details in such good quality 👌👌 the light is always perfect and no matter how near you get everything is very good to see👌👌👌 you're doing a great job 👍😍 I always enjoy your video 👏👏

[@CTmoog]

Hey Iris! Thank you so much! That made my day my friend! =)

[@idagotdinixa442]

You're welcome 😊

[@williamst7078]

the shims and grooves are used for alignment check your service book

[@chrisn6304]

Agree, its used to adjust the offset of the suspension arms.

[@CTmoog]

Good to know. I will do that. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)

[@CTmoog]

@@chrisn6304 Good to know. Thanks Chris.

[@DerekSan_Arg]

Finally another video of yours! I was missing you dude, nice job!

[@CTmoog]

Thanks man! I appreciate that!

[@chickensoup5452]

Amazing vid!! This ones really gonna help me w/ my 65

[@scalejedi3849]

Dude those look like my tools.Love the videos.

[@CamberKitesurfing]

It's pretty terrifying to know all that holds your suspension arms on is a grub screw into the torsion springs! I just took my van to France and the top drivers side one popped out when i went over a speed bump. I have to tear it all down to see if i have snapped torsion bars so this video is helpful, thanks.

[@TimsWorkshopTJY]

Wow, CT what a tear down project. The last part I agree there must be like a bolt under the cap that threads to the other end. The cap is probably just a grease cover that a screwdriver can pop off. But your manual should tell you. Oh don't hammer on your ratchet wrench or you will break the gears inside. Use a breaker bar and hammer on it. 1/2" breaker should work on what you have but larger item like wheel hub nuts a 3/4" drive breaker bar is recommended. I was removing one on a Honda one time with a 6 ft pipe and broke my 1/2" breaker bar. They are about 30 bucks $$$ your really making some progress👍

[@BRI33NOR]

A tapered wedge is often used as a tool for removing track rod ends etc. A wedge with a slot down the centre so it works on both sides equally.

[@assessor1276]

Yup - that tapered wedge is called a “pickle fork” and they work fine if you get the right size. There are also screw pullers which are a little less “violent” than a pickle fork.

[@notajp]

You can also simply take a large hammer, smack the side of the piece the rod end goes thru, and they will usually pop right out. I have a pickle fork, but normally dont need it.

[@shahersherif5348]

Hay CT lam a follower from Egypt i follow you from the beginning of building and i said for you keep going i wish one day see it complete ♥️♥️

[@motorfreaknew]

hi CT! I never had the courage to take it apart on my VW so this video was very informative! I also see that the manual is still immaculate .... Congratulations! my maintenance manuals are all greasy :-))

[@CTmoog]

Yes, I figured a lot people would like to see this. I was bit scared as well but figured we could all learn from it. Yes, my manual is new. HAHA. Thanks for watching! Stay tuned for the next video! =)

[@airheadvw4479]

The groove isn't for grease. The groove lines up with the bolt that holds it in to the trailing arm that is how you set the preload. The shims make up for the offset of the trailing arms. Keep taking stuff apart and learning we all have been there that's how to learn.

[@CTmoog]

That is good to know my friend! I will! Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)

[@VWJawbreaker]

It’s always easier to pull things apart bs putting things back together correctly. Stay organized and keep reading, you’ll be ok.

[@CTmoog]

I'm an expert and pulling things apart! =)

[@VWJawbreaker]

CT that’s how ya learn 👍

[@davidk6271]

Making progress and learning on the way. Good work. I wish to offer up an 11th Commandment. “Thou shalt not covet thy neighbours steel tables on rollers”. Cheers

[@larrymcgarage2152]

David K I was also envying those steel tables, lol

[@CTmoog]

HAHA! =) Thanks David! Words to live by my friend!

[@Russeljfinch]

Our CT isn't the sharpest tool in the shed. The amount of times he is tightening instead of loosening is hilarious .CT lefty loosey,righty tighty.😂

[@overcloth]

on old hardware I always start by tightening just a tad bit. imagine the minerals that have collected between the threads. you can micro fracture the micro debris a tad bit one way before jamming the debris all in one direction at once.

[@Russeljfinch]

overcloth I agree but that's not what’s going on here

[@joeblogs8193]

I agree with you. CT is not the sharpest tool in the tool box..either..LOL He jumps in before reading the workshop manual and by luck, seems to get away with minimal damage. He is NOT at all a professional, but it is what people want to see. (A train wreck) I proffer to watch it done the correct way. Thats why I like to watch Peter Anderson's and Mustie1's channels.

[@backyardkombi5466]

I first watched this sometime ago but I’ll be doing it soon. Very helpful. Thanks.

[@timothynewkirk2654]

CT you said it best "Expert Advice"! I'm not sure I would have tackled the Torsion Bars or the Spindles. All the shims maybe for setting caster and camber. I'm sure you'll replace the Tie Rod Ends so you will be at an allinement shop eventually. I'd say pay a visit to Darrell! ...Newk from Kentucky

[@marcijunebug]

That beam is like brand new compared to mine😜😆✌️

[@CTmoog]

Hey Marci! I don't think this bus had a ton of miles on it. Seems to be in pretty good shape overall. Old Pickle needs some good old TLC! =)

[@JWClassicVW]

I was thinking that it looks really good... I'm seeing some stuff I was was part of a beetle link pin. Needle bearings.... nice!

[@battleshipnewjerseysailor4738]

The groove on the link pin is for grease, it's made that way

[@alanglen5902]

You need to replace that pivot bush in the lower main beam. It is lubricated by grease nipple from underneath the vehicle

[@CTmoog]

Hey Alan! Great advice sir! I will do that. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)

[@wesleyAlan9179]

Awesome! Thanks for the updates! Totally cool!🤘

[@CTmoog]

Thanks Wesley!

[@wesleyAlan9179]

@@CTmoog ✌

[@GT.Bugger]

I wish my front axel looked that good when I removed it, and mines a 72. Why replace the rods? Just replace the ends. Repro stuff is bad compared with original. Only replace if it's worn or damaged, not just because it's a bit rusty or dirty.

[@CTmoog]

Hey Kris, Yes, this bus really is in great shape considering it was left outside for over 40 years. The mechanical bits are in great shape. I might do that. I'm going to clean everything and start to put a parts lists together. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)

[@darkfactory8082]

Nice work, Mr., but be careful around torsion suspensions if removing any torsioned elements as thise are preloaded and improper removal may result in serious injuries.. Not to scare you, not saying anything against just warning you. Torsion elements need always to be unloaded first. Keep on! =)

[@CTmoog]

Thanks man! That is good to know. Thanks my friend!

[@MrJp318]

He will never get it back together. Thumbs Up

[@Koloherides]

I would pre-lube a few days before and when hammering bolts out keep the nut on so you don’t jack the threads

[@ratheskin58]

Reading the manual should be the first thing you do, not the last resort when you don't know what's happening.

[@assessor1276]

Bill Bartlett absolutely. I’ve got a fair bit of experience in addition to being a mechanical engineer, but I never make a move without the shop manual. That is a road to wasting time and money and ruining otherwise good parts.

[@malekodesouza7255]

Pulling out the center pin like you were disarming a nuke.😉

[@garymucher9590]

Anything worth doing, is worth doing correct. And seems you are working that direction. Just think of the amount of knowledge you are gaining. It is always easier after you learn how. Hang in there and plug along. Look at it this way, it is already worn and even some parts broken. So what do you have to loose disassembling things and refurbishing them back to like new again. Something like this would be great to use a pressure washer on for the initial clean up. Even before disassembling things some times. A parts washer will be your friend. I use mineral spirits in mine. Works wonders cleaning off dirt and grease. Thumbs Up.

[@voitmusic]

Nicely made video :)

[@jamesgrill6016]

Ct it’s been years since I rebuilt a king and link front beam, but I think it’s not a good diy kind of job. I believe that e-man deluxe did his bug on KZbin so you might watch that. I’m my opinion however that might be a job for a shop.

[@CTmoog]

Hey James! We will figure it out together. Stay tuned for more.

[@tmackinator]

You really should use metric allen wrenches. Do you have a repair manual for this bus? If not it would be a good investment.

[@tmackinator]

Please note anything I comment on is not criticism in any way. I don't want to come off as a know it all. I have worked on VW for 50+ years. Keep up the good work.

[@TheStig1961]

Eh, Why not use a pulling tool insted of hammer? (Regards Stig Österberg from Dalsbruk, Finland.)

[@CTmoog]

Good idea. I need to buy one of those. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)

[@jamie-r2034]

Great progress! I wanted to ask you - Have you ever done work like this before or is this your first ever restoration/preservation on a classic vehicle?

[@CTmoog]

Hey Jamie! This is my first time. I started messing around with them over the last 4 years. Inspired by Mustie1, vwdarrin and a few other guys. If you look back at some of my older videos you will see the progression.

[@jamie-r2034]

@@CTmoog I've seen all your videos! haha!! I thought you were self taught with this bus for the most part but also thought you had some previous experience on other vehicles. I'm with you though - 4 years ago I started looking at buses & then bought one. I freaked out a little though once it was sitting in my garage because I couldn't even tell the difference between a carb or FI engine at that point. haha!! Today, I'm able to work on MOST of the stuff myself & can diagnose issues for the most part but still second guess myself & ask for a second opinion. I'm still learning but channels like yours, Mustie, VW life, etc help me out a lot! I honestly believe doing it the way you are or the way I did it truly helps you understand what each part does & how it functions.

[@timothynewkirk2654]

You mean you have to ask...

[@CTmoog]

Hey Jamie, the best way to learn is hands on. You can read all day long but doesn't mean a thing until you actually put your hands on it. We are learning together my friend! =)

[@CTmoog]

@@timothynewkirk2654 =)

[@johnpaquin8041]

The original shock are they still working ok or are they week if they work well enuff if it were me I'd keep then and use them just replace the rudder ends paint them and reuse them as they are the orginals for this bus. That is if they still work well

[@michaelengel3407]

Well done. Boge LLC is still operating . Largest manufacturer of shocks in europe. I think also well known in USA.

[@CTmoog]

Thanks Michael! That is really cool. It's good to see copies that are still together after so many years. Thanks for watching! Stay tuned for the next video! =)

[@frankoo2]

Thanks for the vid.

[@johnflynn9463]

View #3,695 on 2/17/20 at 11:52 AM - NJ...I've only done a front end once in my life. A great sense of accomplishment.

[@FernandoelChachi]

I would be very scary having to return all of those pieces together again as you must do.now. Take your/our time.

[@CTmoog]

Yes, it's a big project to take on. I figured we can all learn from it. Thanks for watching! Stay tuned for the next video! =)

[@tomthumb1941]

You could have checked your front axle while on the vehicle, chances are you only need tie rods and shocks. we'll see. good job.

[@CTmoog]

Hey Tom! I considered doing that but it's 58 years old. It might be a good idea to go through everything just in case. It's a great way to learn the process and all the parts involved as well. Stay tuned! Thank you!

[@Doogsa-dl8sc]

@@CTmoog All part of the journey.

[@alansauer6853]

keep it going. you'l be doing the body work soon

[@dwightdumas7724]

thx for the video . it answered my question I am going to use a vw front end to build a horse drawn wagon

[@busonabudget7129]

Another great vid buddy!!

[@kaleemahmed59]

Love to see your work

[@vwcoco]

If it was my van CT I’d finish off welding first, then once repair/restore front beam then just reinstall !!

[@jimmypopp2695]

Another great video!

[@CTmoog]

Thanks Jimmy! Stay tuned for more! =)

[@robertjohnstone2869]

Great video ct still amazes me how simple ,and amazing piece of engineering, considering it's a 60 years plus design ,best way to do it RIP it apart just as well you have a video for reassembly lol.

[@CTmoog]

Hello Robert! I couldn't agree more! You hit the nail on the head brother! Thanks for watching! Stay tuned for the next video! =)

[@mikeeger7581]

You just might have smashed the threads on end of those bolts banging em out that hard with a metal end hammer??? Why didn’t u use the vinyl side of the hammer??? Thanks 🙏 Mike

[@GettingNervous]

It doesn´t matter because he is getting new parts.

[@TheShadeTreeFixitMan]

Moving ahead.

[@richardgreen5602]

When, when, when?

[@mestupkid689]

Those washers are probably alignment shims. My only guess. I don't know vw though

[@CTmoog]

Yes, they are. I just have to make sure I put them back in the same place they come out. Hopefully that will be a good starting point to being close on alignment. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)

[@battleshipnewjerseysailor4738]

The shims on the link pins adjust "camber"

[@larrymcgarage2152]

Just some friendly advice, you should take better care of your rigging. You could damage the slings when you through them on the floor like that. When the shackle bounced off of it. I use rigging on a daily basis where I work. You don’t want that stuff failing when you got a heavy load on it.

[@CTmoog]

That is good advice my friend. Thank you and I will take better care on them. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)

[@joeblogs8193]

hindsight is a wonderful thing!. speaking as a professional mechanic, I would have inspected the unit before removing it from the vehicle. Checked for play of bushes/joints,shocks etc. This would determine what requires appropriate attention or not and on that basis stripped as necessary to recondition/replace parts. We have a saying in the motor trade, "If it aint broke, don't fix it". common sense I guess. The first thing is to look at the workshop manual so you understand how it works and how it comes apart and more important, how it goes back together. Don't go jumping in before you know what you up against. Do you want to convey in your videos, the right way to do it or just your way of doing it? I suggest you tell people the correct way, so if they want the challenge themselves, you can give them the correct information. You would not tell some how to make lots and lots of money by stealing it! That would be the wrong way, although the outcome is potentially the same. Hope you appreciate my comment.

[@CTmoog]

Hi Joe, I really enjoy taking things apart and seeing how they work. This is great way for me to learn and to share with others. Being the professional mechanic that you are I'm sure you would agree that a critical moving mechanism like the front beam on this bus should be completely gone over after being in the vehicle for almost 60 years. Better safe than sorry they say...=) Thank you! Say tuned for more!

[@tunichtgut5285]

CT Rusty's technique parts (undercarriage etc.) seems to be in surprisingly good shape. You should be more gentle when taking things apart. Try to save as many original parts as possible. I doubt that reproduction parts meet the quality standards of the original ones. E.g. never beat on tie rod ends with a hammer. Either use a tie rod separator or use the two hammer method.

[@CTmoog]

Yes, it looks pretty good. I agree. I should have been more carful with the tie rods. Good advice my friend. Thank you! Stay tuned for more! =)

[@jth1987leb]

Read the comments and knew I’d get annoyed if I continued to watch so I’ve stop before it got five minutes in.

[@CTmoog]

So you let other people you don't even know make up your mind for you?

[@jth1987leb]

The comments I read are the same complaints I have had with many of your videos. The one comment I like most was “ you should read the instruction manual first not after”. And you filmed going to the tool box to get tools. Why? Why don’t you take the advice of people that are commenting on your videos. It’s clear from the comments I’m not the only one that has tried to help you make better contact. You have a lot of subscribers but I’m sure you average view time is low. Low because you fill the videos with b roll and saying the same thing over and over and over. You show undoing bolts in real time. Speed that up. As a KZbin creator have you not watched or read any of the analytics data. Viewers are not going to stay and watch a hour of that. I’ve said it several times, I’m interested in the build but your videos are getting worse. This should be a 30 minute max.

[@CTmoog]

This video currently has 577 likes and 37 dislikes. I like those odds. Not bad for a guy working in his garage on the weekend for fun.

[@davidmays5231]

Never hit on the threads on a tie rod connection. Hit sideways on the part the taper is going down thru.

[@xavierjacques73]

Periodically start that engine and run it for some time We can't let it forget it has been rebuilt otherwise it may refuse to start once again Believing it has been junked 46 years ago

[@CTmoog]

Yes, I will start it every week. I love the way it sounds so that's not a problem! =)

[@xavierjacques73]

@@CTmoog Thank you 😘

[@philrawnsley8341]

Hi. Don't hit a ratchet with a hammer to loosen nuts and bolts, you'll damage it. Use a long breaker bar, instead!

[@CTmoog]

Good tip Phil. Thank you!

[@kpdvw]

20:50 "four shims in here" ;....these are Camber adjustment shims! Do use the official VW repair manual! Link pins with Needle bearings and not just sleeve bushing/bearings; now that was Quality construction!

[@GettingNervous]

To disassemble the torsion arm you need a hydraulic press. For cleaning all the parts a little parts washer will be helpful. I am impressed the all the screws and bolts come loose the easy way after sitting nearly 60 years at the same place 😁. By the way: The manufacturer of the shocks (BOGE) still exists, but is now part of the ZF-company. Here you can find further informations: aftermarket.zf.com/go/en/boge/home/#products Seems that the beam is in good condition at all. Anyway, nice vid and another progress on the project 👍.

[@CTmoog]

Might be a good reason to purchase one now. Very interesting. It's neat to see companies still in business after so many years. Thank you my friend!

[@donaldharris9657]

If theres a metal sleeve in the shocks where they bolt up , you might want to save them.

[@donaldharris9657]

Do you have a pull handle for your sockets? It would save from having to use a hammer to beat on your socket wrench.

[@andrewkiwi1]

It may not look like an Allen screw but it is. Usually you undo the middle one first after you have taken the hubs off. This takes some of the tension off the leaves that anchor in the middle that take the weight of the vehicle so be aware. 60 years of caked grease. LOL The steering pivot on the beam will be needing a new bush kit. its wobbley. All the bits will come in the kit. Leave the torsion bars covered in grease and wrap them up in newspaper or the grease will get every where or every thing will stick to it. Buy the workshop manual You will need it. If you haven't got a long handled 1/2" power bar it would pay to get one for undoing the bigger bolts. More leverage and less effort. I expect you will be doing the king pins and and link pins too. it may pay to buy the king pin kits and get you local engine shop to fit them as the bushes may need to be reamed to suit the pins and they will have adjustable reamers. You can fit the link pin bushes yourself lining up the holes in the bushes with the grease nipples. you will find a chart that has 5 colums The first one will have a measurement ( say 6.5mm) and the next 4 will have A B C D these are the positions of the shims. What you do is when you have the arms back in the beam, You get a piece of steel flat bar or a file and hold it vertically against the outer face of the the lower arm and measure the gap between the end of the top arm and the piece of steel. Then refer to the chart. easy - peasy.

[@tmackinator]

You may want to make more use of an impact wrench for stubborn fasteners in place of a hammer. At least use a breaker bar instead of beating on your ratchet.

[@notajp]

Yeah, he’s got that big air compressor now. Time to invest in some quality air tools!

[@vwcoco]

CT where can you buy one of those engine starter motor adapters as no one in uk sell them , could do with one here tbh

[@chezsnailez]

Can old shock absorbers be reconditioned - in case you wanted to keep as many original parts as possible?

[@jerryf609]

What a waste of time. He already has about 5 years of work ahead of him.

[@johnpaquin8041]

These old king pin front end hardy ever where out most of the time just need to put on new tie rod end new bell crank bushing then clean paint and be done. But you have now taken it apart so owell

[@christurbo951]

My front end looks unlevel. Is there a way to re-index one side?

[@Mr.-Wint]

King pins must be pressed out after cap removal.. But if the arms moves freely and sealings look good maybe you should just leave them and just use a greasegun ?!

[@HubertusSchaper]

Hi CT greetings I watch your efforts with dismantling the front suspension, I, am wondering why do you not use air pressing tools It will make your work less difficult. It`s nice to see you struggling to get it apart, however, I`ve to say my respect for doing the job by your one I know how much work is behind to get al this dismantled. Just a tip select al those parts from the left and right side for them selfs so you don`t mix up those different parts. Looking forward to the next video. Regards from HCS. Ps, some of the parts you looked into I will say Hands of those should be done by an expert don`t do that by your self.

[@CTmoog]

Thanks you sir. I will be investing int some air tools soon. That is good know my friend.

[@ivorwm2291]

Great video. I learn by watching. Thank you. I would spray it with wd40 put it in the back of the pickup and take it to a carwash that has engine cleaner and spray it for a couple of cycles

[@tospicy4ya]

I had my spindles flipped and drops the bus 3inch

[@CTmoog]

NICE! Thanks for watching! Stay tuned for the next video! =)

[@radiosferramentas612]

vw bus is getting new!

[@giuseppebosa257]

wat a video , so fantastic oh yes i'its my cup tea .

[@joaquinperez959]

Your front axle beam is in dire need of a new bus, most people will agree!!!😋😄😁😪😀

[@marcijunebug]

joaquin perez oh come on Joaquin it’s much better than MINE! 😂🤣

[@joaquinperez959]

They are both just as bad!!!

[@joaquinperez959]

Old badly rusted cars are not worth fixing!!!

[@marcijunebug]

joaquin perez 😆

[@marcijunebug]

joaquin perez you should see my daily driver! Isn’t about “worth” 😉

[@johnthomson1960]

to take joints apart you hit the bar they go through not the threads as it mushrooms them

[@michaeloconnor1041]

No ya don't...you run the risk of breaking the bar. Leave the nut on the threads...hit the nut....threads can't mushroom because they are inside the nut. Easy !

[@wesleysoares1143]

What is the name of the mechanics book you have to buy ?

[@chrisn6304]

The bushings of the steering lever are toast. The play is too much. You need a reamer for rub the new bushings to the correct bolt diameter. See also in the repair manual. Good luck

[@CTmoog]

Hey Chris! That is good info my friend! Thank you!

[@johnc.fonseca8961]

The hamer in the bolts not good. But nice work.

[@Koloherides]

if you leave the nut on then hammer it you wont kill the strip out the threads