VW T5 AXD 2 5Tdi EGR Valve DIY Fix

In this video, I cover the replacement of a EGR valve on a 2.5TDI AXD engine on our VW T5 - 2005.

[@EmeyeP]

One of the best DIY vehicle repair videos I have ever seen. The whole process, end to end, very well explained and with lots of useful tips. Thanks.

[@bamse1955]

You are great, thanks for video, helps a lot !

Video good channel

[@andrewbalfour9373]

Great video indeed Dan. I'm looking to get another Transporter again as I have been without one for about a year.. Thinking of a 2.5 this time.. Just wondering what your thoughts are? Many thanks.

[@aleksandaramzic8098]

Hello a good video of how long the replacement took

[@Captain_Vimes]

How is the cheap EGR holding up? I’m looking at a cheap eBay option and wondering about the reliability?

[@bathingapenightryder]

Great video, thanks Dan. I had a flashing glow light symbol on the dash and after inspection I noticed that the turbo hose was not sitting snug. I noticed that a lot of oil was leaking out of the hose as well. I had to stop and redo the tape a couple times, but I actually managed to tape it in for the rest of my 3 hour journey hose and get home safely. Every time the flashing glow light came back on it turned out that the hose has come loose again. I am thinking about getting a new hose as you did, but I'm struggling to find this particular part number. Where did you find the code? My T5 is a 2004 2.5 96Kw

[@bathingapenightryder]

7H0145980F ?

[@DanSohan]

PITA - I find the codes using this site, but it doesnt work on a mobile phone i find. PC and laptop are best - www.oemepc.com/vw/main_group/markt/RDW/modell/TR/year/2005/hauptgruppen/1234567890/drive_standart/410/lang/e

[@bathingapenightryder]

This site is great@@DanSohan Cheers!

[@jamestastic70]

Ive got a metal sounds coming from that section on the engine . ??

[@kriston77]

Where did you get replacement egr?

[@andrewparker5314]

Hi Dan, I have same issue. hose and egr on way, I have been told to check the oil breather if its clogged. Do you know if this pulls out or is it screwed? TIA

[@DanSohan]

Hi. The breather valve sat in the rocker cover does just pull out, but take care as the rubber gasket it sits in goes through both the plastics rocker cover and metal rocker cover that's underneath. Make sure its sat correctly before reinstalling to reduce chance of an oil leak there under the top plastic cover. Unfortunately the plastic cover wont come off without considerable effort such as taking the front end and inlet manifold off!

[@stevefuller1779]

Got rid of the egr on mine they actually impair good running, also took away that silly engine stop diaphragm and noticed no difference without it.

[@skydonut]

Hi Dan are you familiar with adding Mr Muscle to the clear the turbo vanes ? Everyone says it is easy ? Can you point out where you would put the Mr Muscle ?

[@DanSohan]

Yes. If you have the 2.5 axd engine you can spray it in through the egr return pipe that comes of the exhaust manifold. I've done it but not felt it worked. Might help to use some flexible pipe to get around the corner in the pipe work

[@skydonut]

Dan Sohan is that the thinner pipe with the gasket :)

[@DanSohan]

@@skydonut its is, but you wanna get a tube in where the elbow comes out the manifold

[@katiebryson99]

Hi Dan great video, is there any chance you could tell me where you got the EGR valve and the turbo pipe you took off from? Is there a particular retailer you get them from? Having the same trouble and just noticed your video! Many thanks!

[@DanSohan]

Hi, thanks for the feedback. I started off sourcing from ebay, but found it hit and miss as to the quality of parts provided. I ended up getting the parts from a local vw independent that ordered them in from their supplier and to supply at not much over cost. Think they sourced from TPS.. TPS provide the parts to Volkswagen. Some will only sell to trade, but if your lucky you might find one nearby that will sell to you. Just ring them and ask if they will set you up an account. Good luck.

[@katiebryson99]

@@DanSohan hi Dan thanks for replying I’ll have a look into that! Do you mind me asking how much the valve cost? Many thanks!

[@sampayne6318]

Hi Dan, Cracking video, do you know the PN or name of the hose that you replaced? In the video you refer to it as a 'turbo hose' - just trying to make sure I'm ordering the right bit. Cheers.

[@DanSohan]

They're also known as boost pipes. It's really difficult to track those down and the non oem ones can be hit or miss, but much cheaper I'd imagine. There was a site I used to use to find the diagrams with parts numbers. I cant remember the name, but try google searching VW parts database. You should be able to navigate by model, year, engine type to find the engine and various system diagrams for free.

[@vasek987]

I doubt it is still relevant but for anyone - the boost pipe he replaced is 7H0145980F. I bought GATES 09-0258 😉

[@david1888walsh]

Dan I'm wondering if you could offer me some advice please. I've a 2.5 4 Motion 06 and it's now loosing power at high revs and going into limp mode. I can rev and drive it as high as I want in 2nd gear but from there up it goes limp. It's been off the road for a year and I've run dipetane through it, changed oil and filters but no luck. I'd appreciate any help. Thanks Dan

[@DanSohan]

I had a similar problem. Sounds like a boost control issue. It could be a leaking booat pipe connector, leak from the intercooler. This is usually seen as a small oil leak from the connections. Or it could be a problem with the vacumme control valve to the turbo. This could be intermittent loss of boost and going into limp mode. Mine was blown inlet manifold gaskets. Again might see oil residue or leak from under the inlet. Worst case is sticking turbo actuator or vanes. Can be difficult to diagnose. But you should be able to either see the actuator arm moving on the turbo when the engine is 1st started. Vcds is the easiest way to diagnose a boost issue. Have you had an codes read?

[@david1888walsh]

@@DanSohan Thanks a moon for replying Dan. Food for thought and very much appreciated. It was plugged into pc diagnostics and it was just tested and nothing showed on either. I will have a look at what you've suggested as nd hopefully it will be a lesser evil. Thanks again

[@cliffainsworth258]

Hi Dan, Thanks for your videos. I've a 2005 T5 with the AXE engine. I wanted to take a look at the EGR valve to check it wasn't too gummed up and operating correctly. After cleaning in situ I tested the valve operated by attaching tube and sucking. It opened and remained open whilst vacuum held with tongue . I reattached vacuum tube and started engine. After a brief while whilst on idle I could see the valve opening and closing in a pulse type pattern probably once a second. I'm curious if that is the expected behaviour. Unfortunately I didn't have helper who could press throttle while I observed the valve so could only really see at idle. Starting, running and idle are all fine. Thanks

[@DanSohan]

I dont exactly know, the only 100% to know would be to plug the diagnostic computer in to see if the ECU is sending a pulsing request to the valve that works it.. it doesnt on mine so suppect 1 of 2 issues.. sometime the electronic valves play up and pop open and closed when they should be one or the other. On ours we also had a vacuum leak that only happened when the vac level built up enough for the vac to leak causing pulsing vac levels. If you can! Get one of the vac level indicators that you can also hand pump. I found it very useful in dianostic of the system. You could see if the vac level is pulsing before and after the valve. If after! Its the valve or ecu requesting if before its a vac level issue or leak

[@cliffainsworth258]

Thanks for that ​@@DanSohan . I've a cheap bluetooth ODB2 adapter, do you know if TorqueLite or DashCommand will show the EGR vacuum control? What 'gauge' should I be looking for? If you can point me to the right vac level indicator tool that would be great.Thanks

[@DanSohan]

@@cliffainsworth258 I've never managed to get the bluetooth diagnostic tools to work on mine, so wouldn't know. Does it work on yours? Tried a number of cheap ebay versions, would not talk at all. Use the full VCDS / Vac comm. The measurement block was labelled as EGR duty. The Turbo, EGR and anti shudder cut off flap in the throttle body all use the vacuum solenoid, I was chasing a odd turbo and erg valve issue and found a number of problems on our 2005. 1. The vac tank/ ball had a split in it that sometimes let vac go intermittently. 2. Someone in the past connected the turbo the wrong way round. Actually found 2 diagrams with opposite flow arrows on, but the solenoids are marked correctly on the 3 ports. 3. One of the solenoids seemed to work, but intermittently dropped vac to the exhausted port when driving over bumps! 4. The diaphragm inside the EGR actuator had a split in it.. needless to say the whole vacuum system was overhauled including new vac / fuel pump, 3 solenoid valves, turbo and EGR, new vac pipe and tank... pita,

[@DanSohan]

If like mine? There should be 3 solenoid valves mounted under mid windscreen in the engine bay. 2 are the same. I cant remember which on is the 2 port one, but if your problem is the 3 port one you could swap it over to see if the issue follows to the alternative system. If you need to buy a valve, you get some cheapy ones, but I got a few that kept failing, only the Peirbeugh? Ones work well. Expensive :(

[@DeepakKumar-lv4te]

@@DanSohan when I replaced my 3 port one it was pierburg from gsf , £25 if I remember correctly. The original had started making the moo sound on shutdown, ie diaphragm not sealing/ damaged. Think it was called a pressure boost valve. 10 min job. 2.5L 2008.

[@bg563195]

Is the oil that find in the egr residue from burned diesel?

[@DanSohan]

The engine sucks oil fumes into the fresh air line before the turbo through the crank case breather or PCV valve mounted in the rocker case. Then the EGR valve sucks smoke particals and unburnt gases from the exhaust manifold back into the air line after the turbo. This helps to reduce emissions but makes your fresh air feed to engine dirty. The main pros and cons of the EGR blank off that many recommend. I've not tried the blank off yet. Might in a future video to compare the before and after MPG figures

[@Redf322]

I have some smoke coming out of my dipstick hole on my T5. What do you think it is?. I had an oil test, and it was ok.

[@DanSohan]

Can be normal. Need to check the PCV valve is working OK. Is there enough pressure that it popped the dip stick out? Is the rubber seal on the dip is damaged.

[@SUPDubbers]

Hi Dan, what is the brand of sealer you used?

[@DanSohan]

Any High temp rated RTV silicone should do. Just a tiny bit as you dont want it oozing out on the inside. Many will suggest it's not needed at all, but works for me.

[@SUPDubbers]

Thanks buddy thanks for the video

[@SUPDubbers]

I have the same aftermarket egr. How has your van been since installing it?

[@bimafathan_7188]

hey bro, what makes it difficult for my Volkswagen Caravelle TDI to start after disassembling the engine , but after turning on, the engine starts normally

[@DanSohan]

it could be a air leak into the fuel system, or maybe a lazy starter motor, or poor wiring. its difficult to tell

[@bathingapenightryder]

got my EGR valve delivered. too small(?). I'm very confused how this happened.

[@bathingapenightryder]

Turns out the manufacturer sent me a dud.

[@isaackent2355]

Why would I have a mixture of oil and water in the intercooler pipes? I'm also losing water, with no external dripping, so it must be internal, but where, and what is causing it to end up in intercooler pipes.

[@DanSohan]

sounds like it could be the water pump, any water leaking into the engine oil can end up as deposits in the intercooler pipework as it will come out as steam from the rocker cover vent or PCV as its sucked in by the turbo.

[@isaackent2355]

@@DanSohan is water pump easy to DIY? So hard to see anything on these engines, it's so crowded under bonnet. I've yet to see the alternator, or even a fan belt.

[@DanSohan]

@@isaackent2355 nothing is easy on this 2.5 lump. It can be done with the engine and front end in. But does need special pulling tools. There are some good videos on KZbin so I didn't bother recording one myself. You also probably need to drain out all the coolant and engine oil before starting as the coolant will flow out the pump fitting into the engine oil down into the sump.

[@antc5010]

@@isaackent2355 Ha! Probably can't see a fan belt because it doesn't exist. During your water pump DIY you may have found the alternator under the intake manifold. It is drive by gear drive off the rear of the engine (RH side from the front) via a flexible rubber spline coupling (Gates coupling) to the alternator freewheel. Worth replacing the coupling and freewheel at recommended 180,000 km to avoid failure. Same for the aircon compressor immediately below. I've just done mine at 208,000 km - worth pulling the front of the vehicle into the service position to keep skin on your knuckles. Other than that the service was ok.

[@deanholliday8186]

Hi there. I wonder if you can help. I have an overboost fault and issue that I can’t seem to solve. I’ve replaced the turbo, as the old one was seized, and boost pressure sensor had been changed. But the van continues to flip into limp mode when driving it (up hill or under load mainly). I don’t know what else to try or do. Any help greatly appreciated.

[@DanSohan]

The pipe diagram from the VW system is wrong for the vacuum pipes on the solenoid, make sure they are connected as labelled on the solenoid valve body, Vac to the pump side. Can you see the level on the turbo working? When you turn the engine on, it should move (I think it opens then closes again if I remember rightly) also, where the inlet manifold joins the block, those gaskets and rubbered bolts can fail, but I think that would throw an under boost error

[@deanholliday8186]

@@DanSohan hi Dan. Sadly I’m Not a mechanic and so apart from checking the selenoid connections I’m useless. Im just trying to help direct a fix as my local specialist is also at a loss as to what else to do. As I said I’ve already had a new turbo and n75 valve and I’m still getting an over post error and limp mode problems. Im just desperate to find the fault / cause and get it fixed. Such a pain. Any other advice welcome

[@DanSohan]

@@deanholliday8186 well that's it really. If the boost system is leaking pressure, it'll be under boost error. If the turbo is not functioning correctly it will throw overboost. Unless the pressure sensor is giving the wrong values. Our mechanic was able to take it for a drive with VCDS and plot some live data so we could see the signal from the sensor was correct. That lead back to the arm on the turbo not been activated properly. We had the pipes on the N75 configured wrong. I guess depending on where the turbo came from maybe the arm was not set correctly. But if you had this problem before unlikely. Do you know if your vacuum pump is actually pulling enough vacuum.. could be a leak or failing tandem pump. But get it checked with a vacuum gauge before buying bits. It should be close to -30inchs of mercury. Think mine was 27 and worked fine. But we did find the cheap N75 valves didn't work very well. Bought 2 off ebay that failed or leaked vacuum, before investing in the Piersberg(¿) one from VW

[@arfonw123]

​@@deanholliday8186 Did you manage to solve the hill - loss of power issue? If so, what cured it? Thanks.

[@deanholliday8186]

@@arfonw123 eventually I did yes. After trying all sorts including new turbo, n75 valve, mapping, boost sensor etc I found out I had a manifold leak and it was causing an overboost.

[@CM-1723]

Howcome you didn't just fit a egr delete pipe

[@DanSohan]

Because I like the lower emissions, and the delete would not fix the boost leak from it.

[@CM-1723]

Have you had to do anything with your tandem pump yet ? I think mine is leaking I've replaced the pump to head gasket but still leaking , wondering if could use that loctite seal ? kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGTTqmWmmaZ-qtk

[@DanSohan]

My Tandum pump seems okay after 170k miles, but our newer EOS Tdi needed a pump at 80k miles!?

[@CM-1723]

@@DanSohan Have you had any oil leaks on your 2.5? I'm sure my tandem pump is leaking oil and fuel but it's really hard to locate where its coming from

[@DanSohan]

@@CM-1723 had a few. Turbo to block, sump and rocker cover. Just went though them one at a time. The tandum pump gasket could be gone. Or where the injector loom enters the head. The oil filler spout and seal on the crank case breather could also leak under the rocker cover plastic trim and seep down by the tandum pump. Its a pain to get the rocker cover off and the injector looms can break when been worked on due to age

[@CM-1723]

@@DanSohan Did any of yours look like this kzbin.info/www/bejne/a6G4pIZvoqx3e9E

[@CM-1723]

@@DanSohan And this kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGTTqmWmmaZ-qtk

[@AlexS-mf2kc]

EGR ist only for "ecology". cut it out chip tune. done. dpf off.

[@DanSohan]

What else is it for?.

[@AlexS-mf2kc]

​@@DanSohan Nothing else. only to reduce NOx emissions. Due to diselgate the valve opens even more, consuming more AbBlue and on top there is a lever that snaps off, so practically its a gasmask, which is connected to ur buttom, run a marathon with it. the engine sucks more soot. oil gets dirty faster....

[@DanSohan]

@@AlexS-mf2kc no ad blue on this model. prefer the lower NOx if possible. might buy phev ford next

[@andrew1979ish]

Over complicating those hose clips bud u only need to pop em out and the pipe will just pull out u don’t need to remove them

[@DanSohan]

Owning the 2.5 was over complication ;) thankfully never have to lift the bonnet again on that one.

[@andrew1979ish]

Tell me about it I just got an LT35 lol

[@partalien9862]

You and your bloody sealant. It's wrong, stop doing it!!

[@DanSohan]

Never done me any wrongs.

[@partalien9862]

Great come back lol.....I did my EGR cleaning this morning, 2.5blueTDI crafter auto. Having seen a few more of your helpful videos I see why you do it I suppose, being an aircraft engineer I seem to spot all the naughtiness I'm supposed to stop at work. I need my turbo out next.........

[@DanSohan]

@@partalien9862 I only use a tiny smidge. All those boost joints weep for a past time on these VW tractor engines. I've even recently bought new pipe work, clips and seal rings and they still lose some boost past them. That was a waste of £300.. would never use it on a fuel system or anywhere near injectors. If you got a 2.5 axd, you'll need some sort of sealer on the turbo to mainfold joint as they blow for a past time to! After 3 years of fixes ours is finally running like new. Good luck with yours. Hopefully you won't need to remove the sump.. thats glued on with VW's £60 a tube sealant. No gasket at all..