Want Ultimate Braking Without The Noise Pro Shares Top Secrets

[@tonyjenkins7156]

Never knew this. Great info.

[@celynjones4958]

Nice trick with the chamfer, never seen it mentioned on 100s of videos. Will give it a try. Cheers

[@adrianramos2689]

Brilliant mate!

[@Onigure]

Great tips. Unfortunately, quiet braking will only last untill the first puddle.

[@slideman.]

good video. thanks!

[@Janhartman74]

You’re a genius!!! Thanks!!

[@CreativeFishDesignsCharlotte]

i just built a new bike and this has been my issue , and I'm not new lol thank you soooooooo much

[@mikgold]

I was taught to use coppaslip for motorbike mechanics. Thanks for that confirmation. Love my discs but not when it squeals like a banshee. I'd rim brakes fail in a flood so won't go back.

[@davidide1525]

Really like your style. I’m subscribed.

[@dominicbritt]

Crap advice - copper slip will just contaminate your pads. Shimano pads have this edge shape already. The main considerations are brake mounts being perpendicular, pistons moving freely and caliper centred properly (by eye and ear - not by braking and tightening).

[@Randombourg]

Could it also contaminate the pistons?

[@sabamacx]

This. Pads worn in when installed on an unfaced and poorly machined brake interface will be a bear to recentre too. The frame just needs to be prepped and faced once, then it's easy disc brake living for the rest of its lifetime.

[@markiemoo5058]

Keep going Ashley! Nice one - Cheers Z

[@calmprn7165]

Your a legend man thank you

[@Hertog_von_Berkshire]

Excellent, I now know loads more about disc brakes. Just wish I knew how to stop my vintage Modolo front rim brake squeeling. It's the loudest I've ever heard and immune to all the adjustments I've tried so far.

[@MikhaelBattaglia]

Have you tried toeing in the pads? Did it on mine, now it only makes some noise when I brake hard.

[@donavinnezar]

i use metallic pads on the back and they tend to get really noisy , i dont think the copper slip will help me much in my case as the vibration is so great it goes through my entire frame and only happens at low speed so i think in my case its just the pad material and cheap cup and cone hubs exacerbating the vibration all good tips , ill try filing on chamfers the next time i service my bike

[@superstrada6847]

Will the anti-seize compound eventually contaminate the pads? Thanks ands great tips!

[@donavinnezar]

if you put too much and they get REALLY hot , he put on a bit much in the video , can get good results from using less , and depending on the brake caliper design it may end up not really doing much as its really just there to act as a glue , at my engineering job we often use a dollop of grease to keep keys from sliding out of thier ways , like putting water bewteen 2 panes of glass will glue them together , same concept here

[@gedeonbauer3885]

We waiting for more tips !!!! !

[@neilandrew4540]

Hi good vid , any tips for disk brakes that only squeal when wet

[@kris2435]

Thanks for sharing 😊 Any special trick for my Avid BB7 mechanical disc? Not only are they weak but they also squeal like a hog in heat 😂 I am entertaining the idea of changing to mechanical/hydraulic TRP calibers but they would cost more then what I paid for the bike. (specialized secteur)

[@Surestick88]

Avids are one of the few good mechanical discs. Good fresh cables, the correct leverage levers, and proper set-up and subsequent adjustment is key however. As with all discs, good pads and discs that aren't contaminated are important too.

[@Hardi26]

I have trp dy/rd postmount calipers. When I tryied to bleed the front brake last year, I found out it's not a job I want to do again. I bought trp bleeding kits for it and followed a trpusa tutorial in youtube. The syringe that I attacked to reservoir sealed fine, but the other one that goes to piston port, did not. There was a o-ring on hose stud that should have prevented any leakage, but when dightening the hose to caliper it squeezed the o-ring out. When leaving it lose it was leaking. Although I found a a small piece of pipe to set like a ring around the stud to prevent o-ring getting squeezed out I had to keep an eye on it, because it was still leaking. And then because I did not have a proper bleed block. I foolishi had thought it doesn't matter what I jam between pistons.. Well it really wold have worked, if I secured the piece of metal I sticked there, but it looked like it stays in place. Why would it fall out. But because I had to keep eye on the hose connecting to the body of caliper. I did not notice, when the block had falled out. Although I initially got brake much better. Got many air bubbles out. At the whery end thought I go one more time. I pushed the piston out, lost oil. Possibly got the seals contaminated with dirt by pushing piston back in.. Without cleaning it throughly. As I was frutated and ready to kill the designer who designed that piece of junk. Had to start all over again. Did not get the brake as good as it was before I pushed the piston. Don't care anymore. My rear brake works fine, front is weak. Whatever I don't think I ever want any hydraulic brakes on my bike. Because if such simple job, that should take only 10 minutes maybe, to do by my self. Requires to bring bike to a shop to a trained mechanic to do instead. What ever they say for the favor of hydraulic.. I'm not listening. Unlike car brakes. Bicycle gydraulic brakes are junk. Designed to be faulty.

[@oreocarlton3343]

Yes!

[@rosomak8244]

It is in the nature of diisc breaks. Either they are too loose or they squeak.

[@dafyddlovestocycle]

Stick to Rim brakes