Was Matt WRONG About The Evolv Zenist? | Climbing Daily Ep.2037

[@Johnny_Cash_Flow]

On this subject, I purchased two climbing shoes: the Scarpa Instinct VS (hard rubber) and the Scarpa Veloce (soft rubber), with the intent of wearing the Instincts outdoors sport and the Veloces indoors boulder. I love both of the shoes, HOWEVER, there is some pretty gnarly slick granite slab at some sport locations and I was just slipping and sliding with the Instincts. I tried wearing the Veloces and sent every route attempted. The Veloces were specifically designed, per Scarpa, for indoor climbing, but I have found that they work great outdoors when smears, rather than small foot holds, are necessary.

[@Qadow]

Magnus did a free solo with Alex wearing Veloces (I mean he never expected to do so but he did)

[@Johnny_Cash_Flow]

@@Qadow Yeah, I saw that! That's actually where I got the idea lol

[@IanSendsIt]

Really good observation with your Instinct vs Veloce. I was in the market for a new shoe and my entire climbing decade, I have been on La Sportiva’s stiffer stuff (Miura and TC Pro). I thought it’s about time I tried something different; a softer (more sensitive shoe) and get back into something more “aggressive” (my bunion made me loathe aggressive fitting shoes). Perhaps a middle ground between stiff edging shoes and soft “bouldering shoe”, so the store clerk showed me the Instinct VS, VSR and Veloce. I’ll always use my TC Pros for long trad days. No doubt in my mind. But the Veloce. Those work amazingly well for everything else I’m doing. Sure I can feel a slight roll on smaller edges, but even with that, I’ve stuck to everything except for some slips from lacklustre concentration. I thought my feet would have a hard time sustaining power since I’m getting way less support, but not the case. Very glad I went Veloce over Instinct lineup, given me a whole new dimension to think about with fitment, comfort and “performance” that everyone likes to tout

[@Johnny_Cash_Flow]

@@IanSendsIt Thanks, cheers!

[@D4NKN4]

Have you ever tried the VSR? Been trying to find intermediate shoes since myEvolv Defy Laces are lacking.

[@ozlemyonder8619]

I also use Zenists and I love them. I use them for everything: bouldering & climbing, indoors & outdoors. I love also that it allows me to feel where I am stepping.

[@alexbarcovsky4319]

Although I dont climb 9a, I too preffer soft shoes for most of my outdoor climbing due to the sensitivy. Theory has quickly become my go to send shoe, and if the route is not super long, I love it for small edges as well. Its never slipped on me once, and I tust it way more than any stiff shoe like the Phantom. Sure, there are some limitations once you go vertical, but the tradeoff for the sensitivty is worth it for me.

[@palhod]

With Zenist for 1.5 years, amazing shoe for indoor gym climbing, now thinking of V6 model

[@raymahendra]

IMO the heel rand on the Zenist is very loose, compared to other brand such as Ocun. Maybe its just my feet tho

[@AbelFarkas]

I have just bought my 2nd pair of Zenists! Very comfortable, but still performs very well. My only concerns is (as others also mentioned) that the heel could be tighter. The new pair is actually half size smaller, I will see if it helps...

[@deanramsay1504]

What was the durability like on the rubber? Looking at getting a pair but the rubber feels freakishly soft😂

[@timothyjhill5520]

About to get a pair of there, may i ask You what's your street shoes size and what size did You go for the zenist?

[@AbelFarkas]

@@timothyjhill5520 My street shoe size is US9,5= Eu 42,5. With my second pair I went for my street size. The first was actually half size bigger. I would reccomend street size!

[@parptarf]

The new Shaman is badass as fuck.

[@crimpchimp]

Do you find it similar in fit and stiffness to the old shaman or oracle?

[@parptarf]

@@crimpchimp Never used any of those sadly. But a buddy of mine repalced his old Oracles with the Shaman lace, and he said it felt smaller and more agressive out of the box but after a little bit they felt about the same. He did say the Shaman felt very much improved over the old Oracle too. Personally, I can only compare them to the Phantom and these feel around the same fit-wise . Similar stiffness, power and sensitvity too. The midsole also cuts off right behind your toes on the Phantom, which makes them a little more sensitive without being much softer. The Heel is much stiffer on the Shaman lace compared to the Phantom. Which is best is up to preference, I like the Phantom more as I'm more used to it. Fit wise the heel feels identical to me(Best damn heel I have ever tried on a climbing shoe). Haven't done much toe hooking in the Shaman Lace, but I honestly doubt they'll feel much more different than the Phantom. Too agressive and stiff to be ideal for toe hooking, but very servicable and in no way bad. The Phantom has more rubber on it so it wins by default. The Zenist would most likely out perform both in that category. (The velcro Shaman would probably do too) Smearing, for some reason, feels a little better with the Shaman than the Phantom. Even when my Phantoms are very well used and softer than my not-so-much-used Shamans, especially on real rock. (This might very much be in my head) I think you'll love the Shaman lace if you liked the Oracle.

[@crimpchimp]

@@parptarf now that's an answer! Thanks! It's hard to find Evolv shoes in stores in Switzerland, have to buy online.. Definitely agree the shamans / oracles aren't the best for toe hooking, but works for my level ;)

[@vanmeerbeeckglenn]

What you think of the zenist pro now ? 😊

[@bpfoley89]

Yeah, the Zenist just doesn't sell. It rarely fits a foot right, its super squishy, and its gotten to the point where evolv is taking returns from gyms. Everything it does, another shoe already does while being shaped like an actual human foot.

[@thesii213]

Interesting. I find Evolv's shoes tend to fit my foot really well, although perhaps that's just the slightly wider models in the Shaman and Oracle.

[@sonnymorgan4680]

I'm in Berlin. There is not a single place where I can try them on. That's probably true for a lot of people and part of the problem. They should do some gym tours in Europe. Just like Unparallel, you can try them on either.

[@v0atmygym734]

Every shoe that is aggressive and asymmetrical is not going to be shaped like an actual human foot🤦‍♂️

[@scottwangkl8882]

The shoe fits my feet very well. Out of 3 pairs from 3 different brands so far, they fit me best

[@ResidentHooook]

When the Evolv brown envelope lands in the door...

[@Sajuuk9]

Ahh the Zenist, a shoe wayyyyyyyy too narrow for my feet.. would love to use these shoe, but never gonna happen..

[@alexbarcovsky4319]

Try La Sportiva Theory, similarly soft shoe. My feet are extremely wide and Theory fits me very nicely, 2.5 EU sizes down.

[@Phil8686]

A video that shows being critical with a gear tests does not work. That's why you cannot really trust them ever. You are critical with a product a brand is not satisfied with it, haven given the products for free to test and so there is a correction. Especially with a show hooked to a shop that then also might realise that they gonna sell less of it if they are too critical. Sad but probably what happens when a sport gets more popular...

[@v0atmygym734]

Why is Matt differentiating between an “indoor” shoe and a “comp” shoe. Like bro, all comps have plastic holds like a gym. How is this man so surprised?🤦‍♂️

[@NatSmish]

The style of "comp" climbing i think has more volumes i think...

[@j.l.5966]

Stylistically, competition problems are more parkour-like with a lot of power moves generated from the feet like dynos and jumps. Lots of volumes and “ninja run” set ups. So there have been shoes dedicated for comp style with beefy toes and heels, more rubber for smearing, and stiff enough to power through toes, but flat enough for the parkour moves.

[@308tony]

I love it but durability 🥲🥹. Gonna resole every ~6 months. The heel is a bit loose but so far, the best heel fit of all of my shoes.