Washer Lid Switch Repair (Whirlpool Washer Lid Switch)

[@GereDJ2]

Series 80 Kenmore: Just wanted to say thanks. Followed your vid and checked my lid switch with my meter and it was bad. I removed washer shell and saw that switch had separated from its plastic housing. I dabbed two drops of super glue on housing edges and secured housing tight in place with a plastic cable tie. Works perfect now and may forever. I thought maybe my timer was bad, but all OK. Only cost me about an hour work. Thanks again. J

[@kickstartspecialists1282]

Thanks, the lid switch on my Whirlpool had come apart. This video showed me how to get to the part to repair it. Much appreciated!

[@gluv83dubb]

Your the man,fixed my washer with this video,it was the lid switch,it cracked and I taped it for now to get it working until the part comes in,much appreciated

[@aljmann]

Thank You, moving the drum to get to the lid switch is soo easy when you know to do it! THANK YOU!

[@aljmann]

Thank You, moving the drum to get to the lid switch is soo easy when you know to do it!

[@johngrooms34]

So how many times are you gonna write the same thing? Just curious.

[@applianceassistant]

If I'm understanding correctly It sounds like the lid switch. I would definitely start with that because it's a much less expensive part. It would be very rare for the timer to act that way. Thanks for the question!

[@applianceassistant]

Thats strange... Sorry I was not able to help. Hope you like your new washer! : )

[@applianceassistant]

That's perfect! Thanks for the comment!

[@jaybeiting2107]

These videos are great if the tub is empty, how do you get the water to drain if the lid switch is faulty?

[@applianceassistant]

sounds like a bad lid switch have you checked it yet?

[@applianceassistant]

That is strange... by your model number it should be very similar to the one at that time marker. Is there a hole for the lid switch like in the video at that time mark?

[@CountryBlessingz]

Greetings and thanks for this post. Im having a hard time removing the side caps on LSR7010PQO(zero or letter O). I seen two screws in the back with a flat head. Do I remove the side caps or just pry up the panel???

[@applianceassistant]

You probably have the type I’m showing at the 1:40 mark. You can reach in and try to get it by hand or use a thin putty knife to slide under the console and release the tabs. Good luck.

[@CountryBlessingz]

Thank you so much for the speedy response. I needed to remove the screws in the back to get to the panel and part. Appreciate your expertise and advice.@@applianceassistant

[@michaelflorence2262]

I would like to point out to anyone watching the video. If this is not your standard regular pressure switch, and in fact that hose goes to a position on the control board, blowing into it can cause a failure in the control board. Simply put. Mechanical regular pressure switch = blow into. Control board pressure switch = blow into = bad board. Other than that, great video, just wanting to warn people..

[@BrettCohrs]

Do you need to replace the metal bar sometimes vs. the lid-switch?

[@applianceassistant]

Usually you would not need to replace the actuator bar, on the new lid switch style. However they can bend and not properly activate the switch when the lid is closed. General some careful adjustment will do the trick. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the switch with your adjustment. Thanks for the question!

[@applianceassistant]

Unfortunately yes you do need to replace the connector, it's probably a part of the entire wire harness depending on your model... Bummer! Sorry for the bad news... Good luck!

[@jermainefjolly]

Very helpful

[@SexyVictoria2012]

took apart my whripool washer and lid switch and connector wire was burn out so do i need to replace the connector wire too

[@falcondriver100]

Can you help me on this?? I have a 'Maytag Centennial commercial technology'. I have no kids & I want to be able to have the lid open during operation. How can I disable the lid switch so I can do that??

[@shaikh7343]

I have a Whirpool LSQ9564J (Ultimate Care ii) and I believe the lid switch is bad but I have no idea how to get to it. I don't have the 2 screws as shown at 6:40 in the video. My washer was bought in 2005.

[@fredportelli397]

Maytag washer lat9416aae humming sound from timer fills water ok , but won't agitate after I turn the timer knob few times it will start I replaced the timer and still doing the same thing , also changed the lid switch.

[@xplore300]

My Kenmore Elite was making a loud noise after it finished the wash cycle and was getting ready for the rinse. Upon looking it over I found that the lid switch at some point has been hot enough to melt the plug a little. Would the lid switch not working cause this?

[@applianceassistant]

If the lid switch is breaking contact due to a bad connection (creating the heat that melted the plug connection.) It may be causing the tub to stop suddenly by engaging the brake causing the noise. So yes that may be the cause. Unfortunately the plug is only sold as a complete wire harness... so you may need to direct wire the new switch with some wire nuts. Good luck!

[@msohiodiva]

My whirlpool washer will fill and agitate but will not advance to spin. The timer sounds like it is dying when it gets to the part of the timer which the cycle should spin and drain. If I turn the knob to the spin cycle, nothing happens. It will agitate during the wash and rinse cycle but stops totally when it should rinse. Should I replace the lid switch or timer?

[@applianceassistant]

What is your washer's model number? The lid switch would not cause a sound, it would just stop all motor functions... It sounds like the noise is coming from the timer? will it work on a different cycle?

[@msohiodiva]

applianceassistant The model of my Wirlpool Washer is LQ9544KQ0. When I turn the knob to the delicate cycle or any other cycle, it will agitate but the timer wont advance to spin and empty. It will fill and agitate on any cycle but will not spin or empty on any cycle.

[@msohiodiva]

any suggestions?

[@applianceassistant]

Kimberly Clark Sorry for the delay! I would guess the lid switch... If you want to be sure you would need to check the lid switch connections with a multimeter. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJXHcnRrfqaIn80 applianceassistant.com/Electricity-And-Testing/How-To-Use-A-Multimeter.php

[@shaikh7343]

I couldn't find it. It wasn't by where it should've been. I just got a new washer. 4 hours was enough.

[@clownjoker859]

i am doing this right now and man its a pain to take it all apart just for this switch

[@applianceassistant]

They can be a little tricky, but I much prefer that older style to what most are now. Did the switch work?!

[@MsSancha2011]

My whirlpool 3.6cubic ft. H2low high efficiency top load washer wont work. It stays in the lid unlocked/locked position continuously bleeping red. The lid will not open and the washer will not work as long as it does this. Ive tried letting it reset and my husband is taking it apart as we speak. Anyone have a clue as to what may be wrong. Please help!!

[@applianceassistant]

That is a little different style of washer...Sounds like the lid latch. Would need a model number to be sure but it's probably part number W10404050. You may also want to look at the back of the strike that is mounted on the lid… Sometimes the little magnet inside will rust and swell causing the problem. Good luck!

[@jacquelinedrone1299]

Don't think that was it. Washer is not filling before quick shut off

[@aljmann]

Thank You, moving the drum to get to the lid switch is soo easy when you know to do it! THANK YOU!

[@aljmann]

Thank You, moving the drum to get to the lid switch is soo easy when you know to do it! THANK YOU!