The Evolution of the Rolex Customer | Around the Crown

Welcome to the premiere of WatchBox’s new show: Around the Crown. Hosts Tim Mosso and Mike Manjos discuss all things Rolex- from the brand’s most iconic references to its lesser-known explorations and everything in between.
In our inaugural episode, we take a look at the evolution of the Rolex customer from the 1980s to the present. Mike and Tim set the stage, discussing the brand’s utilitarian identity in the early ‘80s and its transformation into a bonafide status symbol by the end of the decade. Mike recalls the slow start of Rolex’s proto-Daytona chronograph and its eventual boom in popularity. Our hosts then chart Rolex’s growing popularity with female customers towards the latter half of the decade and the subsequent references that emerged to cater to this burgeoning market segment.
Next, they address the shifting preference from two-tone to stainless steel timepieces, the introduction of platinum references in the 90s and 2000s, and the drastic impact of the internet on collector knowledge and the market as a whole.
Make sure to tune in to the brand new series for the full conversation and don’t forget to like, comment, and subscribe!
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[@watchbydesign6214]

Tim and Mike, what an awesome video. I was and am that Rolex customer from the 1980s. Tim knows this story, so this is for Mike. I've been a Rolex fan since the late 1960s. in the 1980s I was a US Marine pilot and now having some money, I wanted a Rolex. The best place to purchase one was through the military exchanges and the absolute best was the British exchange in Hong Kong. In '83 I went to HK to buy either a Sub or a Daytona (always my favorite). I walked out of the "China Fleet Club" in Dec '83 with a GMT 16750 and have worn that watch for 38 years, 30 years as my ONE watch! Fast forward to 2019 and I'm getting ready to retire as an international 777 pilot. I wanted wither a JLC MUTPC or a Sky Dweller as my retirement watch. So again in Dec. '19, I walked into my favorite HK Rolex AD and was told that two hours prior they had received a TT black dial Sky Dweller. The sales gal said it would not be there in another two hours... I purchased it on the spot and never looked back.

[@panaceiasuberes6464]

It went from mechanics, pilots, engineer to execs and millionaires. Sorted that for ya.

[@panaceiasuberes6464]

@CoolHandLuke The Chinee? Is that some long-lost North American tribe?

[@PhanCusername]

You savage.

[@panaceiasuberes6464]

​@@PhanCusername Have to be in this pre-post-apocalyptic world.

[@PhanCusername]

You're a well cultured individual. Hope we cross paths one day. It'd be a good time talking watches over beers, and some Chinee food potentially.

[@kevins8971]

American Psycho is all you need to know about the urban Rolex customer in the late 80s and early 90s.

[@bikemike1118]

Well, I don’t think that even back then only real „professionals“ bought those steel sports Rolexes! I mean: how many „explorers“, race car drivers etc were (or are) out there?? This IMO is wishful hindsight thinking…! Rolex as a company never would have survived if only this handful so called professionals would have bought those models… But that’s just my humble opinion and common sense

[@amickinflorida9008]

Well there were a lot of People back then like Dr Buckaroo Banzai in the 8th dimension who was a Neurosurgeon, race car driver, test pilot, and rock star. So he had at least….say….5.

[@watchbydesign6214]

Not only did I wear my GMT Master as a military and professional pilot from the 80s until my retirement in 2020, a good 20% of my US Marine squadron's pilots wore Rolex's (Submariners since all were dive qualified) in the 1980s. So, more professionals than you may imagine.

[@bikemike1118]

@@watchbydesign6214 okay, congratulations… and thanks to you and some of your colleagues for saving Rolex from getting broke!

[@watchbydesign6214]

@@bikemike1118 I see the Rolex haters are out in force on this topic!

[@bikemike1118]

@@watchbydesign6214 ...not me! I own a Rolex 16610LV myself. Not EVERYBODY who doubts "stories" on KZbin is some sort of "hater" ..!

[@robynsjp]

The great Rolexes are the steel scratched vintage ones - like the 5513 or 1675, steel only, tritium only, plexi only, preferably rivet bracelet with old stamped clasp. As for modern polished ones, they're obnoxious, ostentatious and showoff - and in precious metal or with precious stones, they become the pinnacle of bad taste. And with the total hype in the past 5 years, modern ones have become boring, the watch not to wear for watch lovers. Caution Patek, you're going the same route...

[@AM-hk3uw]

Great discussion, and do more of these videos. I purchased my first Rolex in 98', it wasn't a global market where you could research the watches and the market as easily as today. When I talk to people not in the watch world (eg not a keen watch enthusiast) - most cannot name another prestigious brand - its Rolex and Rolex. Do not underestimate the importance of being able to buy a Rolex and them get your $ out of it yrs laters - and not take a bath on it. The money these days is just everywhere - IT, Property developers eg suburban developers, You tubers, influencers etc. There is just so much more money chasing the watches etc. I have have brought all my watches at AD's, but I think the grey market is fantastic for the industry, people have another avenue to buy watches from anywhere in the world - that was not available in the 80's and 90's, it was a local dealer or you had to travel. I think the Grey markets dealers are actually price takers, not makers - they ask a price, but its the public who decides if the price is reasonable or not , by buying it or not.

[@samkluckson3621]

Loved this video! Messrs. Manjos and Mosso have great onscreen chemistry. KZbin does not get better than this!

[@visible2anyoneonyoutube]

Are you REALLY wearing sunglasses on your head indoors during an interview? And upside down no less! Classy.

[@TheRunningManZ]

The YTer in me thinks that not having the word Rolex in the title of this series is going to hurt your click through rate. It’s a clever title. But it’s gonna hurt your clicks. Great vid guys!

[@jh-il5sb]

i don't think people were going all those exotic activities with their rolexes in the eighties and pre-eighties, but that was a time when people actually wore and enjoyed their watches........not an investment!

[@watchbydesign6214]

Please speak for yourself. I was a Marine pilot and a corporate pilot for the entire decade of the 80s and 90s and wore a Rolex professional model exclusively the entire time... Flying globally, in the field, diving and in combat. As far as an investment, that same watch which, one that I still own and wear was appraised last year at 50 times the purchase price new.

[@jh-il5sb]

@@watchbydesign6214 first off, thank you for your service. I think my intent was that most people aren't using the watches as the rolex advertisements portray. My second point was you didn't buy the watch initially as an investment like many people are currently.

[@watchbydesign6214]

@@jh-il5sb Thanks j h, and understand that having lived and owned a Rolex back then, there were many more people who used steel sports for their intended purpose than one might imagine. Also, they were a prestigious brand even back then and other people bought them just because they were cool! As far as an investment, I was taught by my Father to always buy/invest in quality. Did I buy this an investment , hell no watches are NOT investments (I don't care what "Mr. Wonderful" says). The $405 I paid for my Rolex new was less than half the retail US price, and two years later when I had it serviced in '85 (two years was the recommended interval back then), my watchmaker placed a $1,500 value on the watch, so I knew I wasn't going to lose money. Same watch last year, full complete set appraised by GIA for $20.5K. Doesn't matter, I don't sell my watches.

[@dr.zacharysmith7052]

Nice Vid. I think the marketing machine of Rolex kicked in the 80s, 90s, and especially sponsorships of huge sporting events, golf, etc. really pushed the sporty side of Rolex, don't you think?

[@jolness1]

This was awesome. Tim really did a great job of leading the conversation and Mike is letting his decades of experience in the industry shine. Also, I think the photos on the wall behind them with the Rolex and the pop cans is phenomenally well done. I kinda want them for my house

[@m.e5544]

Tim and Mike in a video together. I don't even remember when the last time this happened was. Nice nice 👌🏻. Tim is the man, man

[@asura2545]

Great format, loved the discussion! I would greatly enjoy one about Omega

[@charlottejet4338]

That was a thoroughly enjoyable interview. Then, this is Tim doing his thing! I recently (two weeks ago) bought the Yacht-Master in steel and rose gold with the chocolate dial. I was lucky to get it from my AD at retail. It was nice to see the same watch here. I'm now looking to buy either an Omega DeVille GMT or a JLC Master Geographic. I'd like both... 🇬🇧

[@alanl2550]

Excellent discussion and historical perspective. Thoroughly enjoyed this!

[@thehairlesspersian3273]

Before a man would have just one watch that he’d do everything with and it would become a part of and define him, now people just have too much money and buy to consume and hoard for the most part, sad but true.

[@bbwt9991]

I think the best term would be devolution rather than evolution.

[@rsaumeii]

Amazing content. Thanks for sharing!!

[@janihellberg6911]

Found this series trough you hiring mr. Forster. Very interesting.

[@aaron2709]

Well done.

[@Sams911]

MORE content like this on Rolex please... I'd love an in-depth look at how they currently manufacture their watches, how much hand work, why it takes a year, etc..

[@NikonFM2n]

In my family I know a yacht captain and a truck driver that wore Rolex subs in the 70's 80's and till now.

[@AdamFein]

Great conversation! 1980s Rolex club - LOL!! P.S. Gordon Gekko wore a gold Cartier Santos

[@cdt114]

Great to hear Mike's historical perspectives with great leading questions from Tim.

[@geroldatlarge1841]

Great review. Took me back to Italy in the 90s looking for a DAYTONA. It indeed seemed that they all were in Italy. Dealers literally told me -want one ? -go to Italy.

[@jeffreybialowas4637]

Awesome Rolex content, it’s amazing how we will be talking many years from today how this Rolex era was and comparing it like how we just compared from our past. Very interesting timeline on this amazing company, and how it’s products resembles its owner.

[@HRM.H]

Thanks for bringing up these interesting and normally not really talked about topics.

[@basils_bezels]

Awesome video!! I don’t recall Tim and Mike ever doing a video together. Watchbox is a stronger, having them on their team!

[@Nefville]

This is great you guys put something awesome together here. Hope to see more, so many brands out there.

[@kostasp1137]

Rolex has become a hugely hyped brand and the social media have played a huge role in this. Rolex pre social media was not perceived as cool brand as is today.

[@amickinflorida9008]

I beg to disagree. Yes it is hyped by social media, but prior to social media it was hyped in Movies and TV. Rolex was hip and cool as far as I can remember back into the 1980s. 😀. Best wishes.

[@jonathansavage8221]

Hi Mike and Tim. I really enjoyed this format and I learnt a lot too. Thanks for putting this together and hopefully you can do more of this longer format, discussion type content in the future. Happy Christmas to you both!

[@walterv7915]

Agree with Jonathan. Great format! Merry Christmas!

[@herbmerced7780]

Super interesting….

[@clamantJTV]

I can’t say much, but wow what a deep yet skimming history of Rolex watches. I got to say I didn’t know any of this but it’s great to see people who were and did their research talk about it. Thanks Tim and Mike.

[@travelswithpapajohnsutton601]

What a great historical discussion about the evolution of Rolex! Thank you Gentlemen!

[@markwilliams7091]

Hate to be a killjoy here but, you guys are seriously off the mark. President Eisenhower wore a gold date just in the '50s and LBJ wore a day/date i.e. the President in the '60s. I know this is fairly common knowledge. Don't know why you've excluded it. This whole "tool watch" business is mostly Rolex marketing. It was a watch for guys who wanted an expensive, fancy, exclusive watch but said "I'm not a pussy".

[@ryanelectra225]

I was in the car business starting in the 80s. Rolex was a thing. If you were really successful, two tone DJ. If you owned the dealership, Day Date, known as President back then. I scraped together my pennies and got a steel DJ in 1988 and have been a fan since. This discussion is totally on-point based on my experience. I've bought and sold many Rolex since that first one, and I've never lost $ on one. And I used to be able to visit my dealer and see/touch every model- not any more. You are also correct that the quality has improved noticeably.

[@MrKpshah]

excellent video!

[@BenTramer]

Gekko wore a Cartier

[@rogerparis]

That was great!

[@Agent-vj3ns]

Why can't Mike introduce himself? Reminds me of when cbs used to have (racist bigot) Gayle King introduce her co-anchors. I complained about it and now they introduce themselves lol

[@Chrissepisje]

It's funny to see that your appraisal of the 1980s Rolex customer is completely in line with Rolex' marketing material of the time. I wonder what would happen if we tracked down a million customers from a couple of decades and actually get proper demographics around that. I am not a fan of anecdotal or revisionist history. In the video it's said that the 80s were booming, but 1980-1982 saw a full scale recession, poverty was rife, and the first half of the decade was decidedly dodgy and oftentimes lairy.

[@TwentyOne_Five]

Nice one guys

[@acountddd]

“He’s gettin’ the Milgauss z blue. He’s gonna get the Daytona oyster flex if he can” I’m literally wearing a milgauss z blue looking for Daytonas online specifically on oyster flex hoping I can get one. Woah.

[@closer71]

The Day Date and Datejusts were never considered tool watches. Those were the hot models. Steel sports took off more in the late 90s.

[@Neadlemeyer]

This was a great video - excellent info Thank you

[@BenTramer]

Basically the average Rolex customer went from cool (1980) to insufferable (present day)

[@watchbydesign6214]

Well, some may say I was cool as a Marine attack pilot wearing a Rolex in the 1980s, I wore one until I retired as a widebody 777 airline pilot in 2020... I prefer to think "insufferably cool" 😎

[@BenTramer]

@@watchbydesign6214 you're the exception

[@watchbydesign6214]

@@BenTramer Yet 20% of my fellow US Marine attack squadron pilots wore Rolex watches in the 1980s (Submariners as we all got dive qualified together), seven pilots out of a squadron of 35! Not as exceptional as you might think.

[@BenTramer]

@@watchbydesign6214 Marines in the 1980's is not the group I was referring to as insufferable. Take care.

[@ryankelly8077]

I feel like Rolex forgot about the customers that helped them get to where they are today

[@richardbartlett6932]

life moves on.

[@dufferjuice]

Very enjoyable video. I loved the format and I hope to see more videos like this!

[@michaelcipriano5803]

Your glasses on your head is distracting !

[@herts9999]

If Tim didn’t have them up there, we’d have an alien/body snatchers scenario on our hands. Good to know we got the real McCoy.

[@watchbydesign6214]

That's Tim's style, get used to it, he won't change.

[@basils_bezels]

It’s his shtick

[@terrybeach2032]

👍 Most excellent video!

[@rolex517]

36mm is a men’s size, those who don’t think so need to lose weight.

[@souths4014]

Rolex is the biggest scam in the watch business

[@davidc5191]

Interestingly I was reading Fleming's Thunderball recently and writing in 1961, James Bond was wearing a Rolex even then and of course in the 1965 movie as well. So not just a tool watch prior to the 80s.

[@defenstrator4660]

Well, I would say it still was. Bond is a man of action, he mountain climbs, is a diver, skis, parachutes, so it was definitely about adventure.

[@dorado0359]

The Rolex advertising blitz continues.

[@jimwatchyyc]

Who wears sunglasses on their head indoors?

[@jeromef.5489]

The king will always wear a crown 👑

[@thlee3]

i hope Mosso got some of that watchbox money

[@stickshifter8]

Manjos: 40 years in the trade and still mispronouncing the brand “Constanteen” ???? That’s embarrassing. Plus, how hard is it to pronounce ConstanTAN???

[@Milofchg]

Amazing retrospective!!!!! You guys should vlog about the ups and downs of Rolex collecting. From the pocket watch craze in the 70’s/80’s, to the Bubble-Back burst in the 90’s (those collectors went broke), the late 80’s Italian vintage Daytona/Submariner horde, the beginning of online Internet influencer publications/KZbin channels, and the rise of the Rolex hype & grey market speculators.

[@simonhealy4542]

Absolutely brilliant video.

[@markosdoukanaris2127]

great video guys really enjoy your content, off topic but could you tell me where the artwork behind you is from please?

[@the1916company]

Those are original photographs taken by our talented long time photographer, Paige!

[@Boxer1250RT]

Walked in to an AD in 2004 and bought a Sub right on the spot. After 17 years, still loving it. That sums up the Rolex for me. It will go to someone younger in the Family sometime down the road.

[@stevenwebb9861]

Great work guys thank you.

[@kahuhipajae4088]

Great chat gentleman.

[@amickinflorida9008]

Great vid! The secondary market was present in the 1990s for sure. I bought my first sub with a favor I was owed, used, at retail in 1995 and it became a part of me, a best friend. Worth every dime. Now worth 4X.

[@bubbabrannan5915]

Nicely done gentlemen, in depth and thorough..... Great content, thank you. 🥃

[@ShnallBen]

Great discussion

[@rnunez70681]

I always wondered why these 2 guys don't seem to do videos together. I thought they may not like each other or something. Nice vid

[@fmartmart8099]

Man, I love you Tim, but the sunglasses have to go. It's cheesy. You're not.

[@TheWhoreologist]

I lasted 38sec before the cringe factor got too much...and they're upside down...

[@geroldatlarge1841]

TIM . KEEP the trademark sunglasses. They’re cool and you’re cool.

[@mikemorris5493]

Thank you !

[@sleepy1017]

Awesome episode 🤔

[@PaoloZucchetti]

love this format

[@jamiesieu801]

Great interview.

[@gelmibson883]

Dude from Philly has a maniac laughter.

[@Wild_Danimal]

Today, a tool watch made for tools

[@highwaystar3780]

😆😅🤣😂

[@kevorknourian5442]

Great show

[@jaronleslie9190]

Great piece!

[@dr.supersnake4627]

Excellent!

[@Moe90rules]

Thanks both. This should be interesting!

[@Giovan_Nino]

Interesting history lesson..👍

[@barfymann362]

When I was young, this would be late 90s to early 2000s, seeing a Rolex on someone's wrist was usually that they either were a doctor or working in high finance. I remember seeing alot of Brietlings and Rado watches around. I grew up in Pakistan, for reference, my Dad wore (and still does) a Seiko 5. I also got a Seiko 5 when I graduated. Definitely, I think my early memories of seeing Rolex was that the individual was definitely working in a Professional field - most of the time, they were Surgeons or somehow involved in the Medical Industry.

[@Giovan_Nino]

One to watch…👌

[@oneal14attnet]

Who is driving the market today and what is the identity of this market? Instagram driven marketplace. Having a “hard to get” Rolex (Daytona, Pepsi, Tiffany Oyster), and the flex pieces Richard Mille, FP Journe, Nautilus rule the day. Like Tim said, “older generation drives sales, younger generation drives taste.” Older generations are buying Patek and FP Journe while younger generations are scooping up Rolex. These are the “roaring 2020s” and that name needs to be coined!! Great topic guys!! Fascinating.

[@jimwatchyyc]

This is a watch channel, not a numismatic channel, lol.

[@dominickcolasanto6582]

I am disappointed in Rolex for almost a half of a year I wanted to get a yellow gold Day-Date 40 diamond ind. dial and diamond bezel from a AD for my 60th birthday and the response have none and can't even order one whats up with that.

[@HRM.H]

Well those pieces often only get allocated to customers with a great buying history with said AD. Most AD's only get 1 or 2 of those pieces a YEAR nowadays.

[@dominickcolasanto6582]

@@HRM.H Thank's for the answer. Great the fact of the matter is I am trying to be a legitimate Rolex customer make my purchase register the sale pay my tax get the warranty do the right thing. So that's not working so now I have to go gray market we all know there is a supply of exact watches out there pay alittle extra no factory warranty who knows about the tax so now I am part of out the back door process feeding the gray market. So instead of being part of the solution I am part of the problem.

[@HRM.H]

@@dominickcolasanto6582 yeah i totally get the annoyance... The waiting lists are so massive , to get a piece like that allocated it is (almost) required to have a purchase history of multiple watches like oyster perpetuals , Datejusts or Cellini's

[@dominickcolasanto6582]

@@HRM.H I did purchase a skydweller and love it and will never sell it or flip it. I'm a lucky guy My son Thomas will get all my collection's when I pass Cars, Building's, Home's, WWII artifacts, Art, Antiques, Clocks and Watches, etc.

[@HRM.H]

@@dominickcolasanto6582 o wow , im astonished that they didn't get the watch for you. Might be a problem with the AD... I've heard of people having better luck when they switched AD. It will be too late for your birthday , but might still be worth trying at a different location.

[@laylareslan3111]

Very much enjoyed this. Can’t wait for episode 2!

[@theshamelesswatchchannel6815]

Evolution of the Rolex customer...from douchebag in a double-breasted suit, to douchebag with tats in a t-shirt.