Water Change Disaster RECOVERY! [Something is Obviously Wrong - What do You do Now?]

[@memeguyTM]

The slow adding of water is one of the best suggestions. This allows for the tap water that you adding to be less worrisome i.e. the colder temperature of the tap water can be sorted out by the tank heaters because the flow is so slow. Also chlorine spikes are less of an issue. Good video Ben.

[@BenOchart]

Thank you. I imagine with more delicate fish, like discus, frequent (under 20%) slow trickle water changes would be very easy on the fish.

[@sr-Dot-icp]

Excellent content my friend. Thanks for sharing!!

[@winstonpratt604]

Man that's the best hap collection you've had yet Ben by far 👏 👌 🙌 big props from Tulsa Oklahoma

[@BenOchart]

Thank you Winston

[@SharonWright-qy4ev]

Good morning. I just shocked my fish. Doing everything you said. In the corner. Hiding, swimming upside down..I feel so bad

[@SharonWright-qy4ev]

Only one died. Very grateful for your advice.

[@coryfeldman-hz2yj]

Its a horrible feeling to try to do right by the fish, and accidentally kill them. I just moved a bunch of fish in panic. I think I'm going to use my 5 gallon for plants only from now on.. Its a fully empty now..

[@alejandrolisdero4531]

Thank you BEN. I have a 29 gallon. So little water change %. I want to add one point. Water conditioners consume a lot of oxygen. When adding a lot of it, maintain high dissolved oxygen. Best one for me are strong airstone bubbles while water changes. 👍🏻

[@davidglass914]

Ben your tank look great. Thank you for the information. It was helpful and I will use the information if I have too.

[@mexicalifishkeeper]

Very informative, great video.

[@Army-veteran-dude36]

HI again Ben, i hope this message finds you well. i sent you a short message on here several months ago back in the summer. i watch one of your videos about peacocks cichlids, i received your reply then, thank you. ive just watched this video, tyour video are very helpful of cichlid keepers. we are always learning my friend. by the way your fish tank is awesome, lovely clear water, great job. recently ive sold 107 bristlenose plecos to my local fish shop, now turned my 135 litre tank in to a community tank, however im having fish die recently , i did water tests, everything hood apart from the ph which is 7.2. ive trying to get the ph down to 6.8 as i now have tetras . any tips wood be apprieated. take care from Dennis, ex army veteran

[@BenOchart]

Hi Dennis. Any pH changes should be done gradually. I have found the best long term solution to be getting the fish to acclimate to the water that I can provide. Without any visible signs it's hard to tell what might be behind the fish die-off. Sometimes it's age. Sometimes a pesky bacteria. Starting with a gentle approach, small more frequent water changes, perhaps some salt, then trying stronger methods if those don't bring about the desired outcome. When it's a mystery I'll use something like API General Cure which covers all your bases. Just be sure to follow the dosing instructions exactly and remove all carbon/chemical filteration, including Seachem Purigen and/or ChemiPure products prior to medicating. I hope you get a handle on it soon. Good luck.

[@Army-veteran-dude36]

@ hi Ben, many thanks fir reaching out to me . i appoligys

[@Army-veteran-dude36]

he’ll to you Ben, thank you for reaching out to me today i do appreciate it. apologies to you, i think maybe i did not correctly explain the situation. i was not talking about my peacock cichlid aquarium or my frontosa and fairy cichlid aquarium. i was talking about my new community aquarium. i was breeding bristol nose plecos, from august to november, they have all been sold to my local tropical fish retailer for exchange for live brine shrimp and live blood worm which came in handy to feed all 50 plus cichlids. i set up my new community tank using nature bacteria from other external filters, plus i has two large seeded sponge filter. i used these the get my new aquarium started about 4-5 weeks ago. i put beneficial leaves an almond cones in the tank with a little black water extract , after three weeks of running the external filter and two sponge filter i tested to water, everything was fine, no ammonia, no nitrite, no nitrate and the ph was 7.0 so it was neutral. i transferred 7 boseman fish , 3-4 cory’s, one zebra danio in to the community tank. i let it run for another 2 weeks, the i bought some cardinal tetras, some rasboros, and a half a dozen gubbies . everything seemed fine for afew days, then my fish started to die, a few at a time for three to four days. i did a complete water test and discovered thst the ph was 7.6 which was too alkaline for these types of fish, i added 4 mills of API Down buffer to the water, but the next day there were a few dead fish. i tested the water again and this time the ph was 7.2, since then i have only lost 1 more fish, so i have decided not to try and chase to ph . my local fish shop says i should leave the tank alone and see what happens over the next week or two. im finding it difficult to lower to ph, as i know tetras and similar fish prefer soft acidic water. sorry for the long drawn out explanation but it is the only way i can explain what the situation is. ive been keeping cichlid for the last 15 years without too many issues. community fish tanks seem to be a lot more complex, especially when trying to get the water right. i hate to lose fish, as im sure you do too. bye the way your cichlid aquarium is amazing Ben. im really appreciate you replying to my enquiry. in the past i have send comments and feedback to other fish keepers but barely any of them reply to me which is very disappointing. as you said in the video i watch yesterday, we all can learn something about the hobby from each other, , im 74 years old, service my country for 10 years in the military, kind regards and a merry christmas,

[@richardwoon6613]

Super detail advice!

[@mikejejenich7116]

Ive lost 2 small mbunas. In the last week. But not after water change……. They would go hide in the corner at the top of tank ……. The other fish seem fine….. 🐠. Dont know what caused it

[@kathymurphy1588]

All my tanks get filtered water - my largest is 36 gallon so we are talking the small tanks - 10 - 15 and 20 only get filtered and no chemicals on a change - needless to say I am making water all day every day! Only the 36 gets tap - terrifies me every change! Thanks for the advice Ben - I will even be more careful going forward with that tank!

[@tkay711]

I had a big ammonia spike a couple weeks ago. I took out some of the filter media to put in another tank I was cycling. Every day I added some Prime and about 4 days later ammonia went back down. I did not lose any fish. I panicked when I saw that dark green from the ammonia test!

[@BenOchart]

I’m glad you caught it and didn’t lose any fish 😀👍🏻

[@BenOchart]

I’m thinking if I do that in the future (remove media) maybe I’ll hit both the old and new tanks with both conditioner and some bottled beneficial bacteria

[@tkay711]

@@BenOchart Yea I added bacteria and did water changes and the prime. I took our 2 pieces of media. Should have just taken 1 out? Any way the new tank cycled really quick when I did that! Alls good now.

[@jerrysfishroom3579]

These are all spot on helps. As always out of the park. My water is filtered with a carbon filter so no chlorine. However, I always treat like it does, just on case the filter fails. Slow filling a great idea.

[@BenOchart]

Hi Jerry! Does the carbon stop both chlorine and chloramine?

[@jerrysfishroom3579]

@@BenOchart I read 0 o. The chlorine part of the test strips. I am not sure if my water has chloramine.. How would I find out?

[@jerrysfishroom3579]

Here is what I found in the research I did. Catalytic carbon beds are quite effective at filtering chloramine, and for the last decade have been the media of choice. Catalytic carbon will remove chloramine for a year or more depending on load levels and flow rates, but is eventually “spent” and needs to be replaced.

[@RegularDudeAquariums]

This happened to me and the only reason I noticed was because my Red Zebra turned completely peach white and the 17 other Mbuna started laying on the bottom inactive. I did a 20% water change without conditioner and added more bacteria. It seemed to do the trick. After 30 min or so everyone was happy again. Def scared me, that's allot of water puppies to be losing because of a water change. Love the vids, keep em coming!

[@BenOchart]

I’m glad you acted quickly and averted disaster. I often suggest that we should always observe our fish after any big step like a WC of filter cleaning. That way we can catch things like you did. If you had gone right to bed or left for work (like I did once) you would have gotten a bad shock. Thanks for watching 😀👍🏻

[@Army-veteran-dude36]

@@RegularDudeAquariums hi just read your comments about how you did a 20 percent water change in your mbuna cichlid aquarium. I always use prime water declorinater every time I do a 50 percent water change on my peacock aquarium weekly. API essentials is another product that is very good as it also removes metals and other nasties in the tap water. It sounds like you have a wonderful mbuna set up. I used to ker- mbunas but I got feed up of them digging and messing up my aquarium. I now have a 345 liter peacock aquarium with 7 clown loaches, ~two of them are 8 inches long, I’ve had them for ~8 years now. Also got two large catfish. They get along most of the time, but as they are African cichlid one or two fight now and then. So yeh Seachem prime is what you need to use when you do a water change, it’s well worth it as chlorine can kill your fish. Hope this helps, best wishes.

[@jimmoore7365]

PUTTING WATER BACK SLOWLY IS THE GREATEST IDEA SINCE THE WHEEL. IS it btter to add the water conditioner right before filking? How do you match the temp with the tank if your using a water changer . I usually feel. The tank , then match by feel the bst I can. Tell me is there a better way. Jim Moore

[@BenOchart]

I use a digital thermometer made by Taylor. I always condition right before filling and since it’s from the tap I condition for the full volume of the tank.

[@moirjag]

Do you adjust the temperature at the tap / faucet. My dad (back in the day) insisted we boil the tap water (stove or kettle) and blend the heated water with cold. Then add your conditioner, before topping the tank out. I have historically just followed his guidance. But I appreciate I've never considered any other options despite the fact it's 30 years later

[@BenOchart]

I use an instant digital thermometer and match the tap to the tank temp

[@KGcichlids]

Great advice as always ben

[@BenOchart]

Thanks Kevin

[@noyesphotography1979]

i keep a couple of those 18gal totes from walmart full with treated water just for water changes that way there is less shock. i have one sitting here full that has been treated for a week now waiting for my next water change which i only do maybe once a month a 20 to 25% change at most. this has always worked for myself with no problems at all .

[@American_King]

Ben I think I accidently suffocated my discus a few months ago with too much Safe to dechorionizer and possibly too much PH buffer

[@BenOchart]

That’s the downside of water conditioners and any type of chemical additive

[@American_King]

@@BenOchart Exactly Ben and never admit to it

[@brianp6180]

Good info Ben. They use a lot of chloramine in my water. I always double dose the prime or Fritz complete. A few years ago I accidentally forgot the prime and I had the water temp out of the faucet way high. One minute the fish were normal next they were all at the surface gasping for air. Luckily I caught it in time

[@BenOchart]

Those close calls are real learning moments aren’t they 😥 😅

[@brianp6180]

For sure. Slow down and get it right

[@TJ-ht3jb]

Good morning everyone. Love this Channel. My 2 cents for what its worth.. The one thing I would caution against using extra Seachem Safe dosage. I have killed and subjected fish twice to over dosing with Safe. I believe (not certain) that over dosing with Safe can cause deoxygenation of the water). Whichever method I use to treat the water after a water change I like to keep water level below my filter return flow for awhile to add oxygen through the agitation of the surface.

[@BenOchart]

It would be easy to overdose Safe since 1/4 teaspoon treats 300 gallons. However, according to Seachem, it would take quite a bit to impact the fish negatively.

[@TJ-ht3jb]

@@BenOchart my experience isn't empirical strictly anecdotal. Just a warning . It would be interesting to learn the amounts necessary for adverse outcomes and the actual causes. My understanding of the difference between Prime and Safe is strictly concentration and Prime is in liquid form.

[@zaytoven337]

Do u know when James at The Cichlid Shack will have a new restock of haps? Most of the ones I’m interested in getting are sold out.

[@BenOchart]

He gets in new fish every week. If there are some particular fish that you’re interested in I suggest you send him an email. Get them all at once to save on shipping costs. Don’t forget to use “shackattack15” for 15% off on fish orders over $100.

[@dlp5924]

Helpful. Thanks!

[@robertegan7080]

Where did you order your clock?

[@BenOchart]

The channel logo neon sign behind me was from Vinny's Aquatics on KZbin. Apart from keeping fish Vinny is a master sign builder.

[@elizabethwagner2190]

Good morning, looking forward to my first freak out of the day.

[@BenOchart]

Hang in there😲😉😀👍🏻

[@joeprovenzano4362]

Do you believe in stability and fritz bacteria

[@BenOchart]

I’ve had good results with both but still believe media from an established tank and the gradual adding of fish is the best way to go

[@shawnpaul9544]

I had about 15 fish die on me, 5 died, did a water change, 5 more died, then 2 or 3 just died in front of me now. I put extra stress coat in and added beneficial bacteria. Should I do another water change and clean one of my canister filters? Or just wait till tomorrow and see what happens? I'm just not trying to loss anymore fish

[@BenOchart]

Have you tested the water? It sounds like an ammonia spike. Add conditioner every day for at least 3 days. Don’t mess with the filter because you’ll kill off more beneficial bacteria and perhaps start another spike.

[@shawnpaul9544]

@@BenOchart I haven't tested yet, just about too but thank you I'll do that

[@joshhopper6109]

Great video. I made the mistake a few weeks ago of picking up what I thought was api tap water conditioner but instead was api quick start. The bottles look really similar to each other but definitely don't do the same thing. Thankfully I didn't hurt my fish.

[@BenOchart]

Might have offset the damage of adding unconditioned water🤷🏼‍♂️. Seachem Safe and their lake salt product packaging look exactly the same. I’ve written “SAFE!” on the top of the screw on cap to avoid using lake salt and thinking I’m conditioning the water. I think it’s normal for fish keepers run with low level anxiety issues 🤣🤣🤣

[@HalfManHalfCichlid]

I always add the replacement water over a minimum of 30 minutes with a powerhead running and assuring that the new and old water (and conditioner) are mixing well. NEVER do a large gravel vacuuming and filter cleaning at the same time or during a water change. Contrary to popular opinion, the more water you change out (e.g.80%), the closer your water parameters will be between the old and the new replacement water- as long as you are doing large water changes frequently (i do every 2 weeks for example).

[@rockyandmiles9889]

Forgetting water conditioner is my biggest fear. I tend to have adhd so I really need to focus during water changes. So far so good! My fish love to swim through the new water being poured in (I use buckets), it’s funny to watch but I have to be careful not to pour to quick and topple them over 😆

[@BenOchart]

Maybe a checklist that you mark with each completed step?

[@tkay711]

Awhile back I forgot to add chlorine remover to my little Betta tank and he died. I felt so bad.

[@brettcoyle2399]

I take medicine for adhd I have it severely bad so I set everything out before hand thank god my tap water hasnt y changed in over a year it has 8.2ph and 0.25 ammo, 0,0 everything else

[@rockyandmiles9889]

@@tkay711 oh that’s so sad … have you gotten another betta buddy since even ?

[@rockyandmiles9889]

*then

[@donwishon5514]

If possible mix tap water with conditioner in a separate bucket then pour into tank. No more than 30 percent water change

[@rskumar7777]

I had frontosa and star sapphire in my tank.Normally used to do 25 percent waterchange. Once did a 50 percent or may be a bit more (Forgot to stop at 25 percent).star sapphire looked a bit slow after water change.. When to bed....Next day all star sapphire were dead(4 fishes)..Checked parameter next day all were fine..

[@figueroafishmaster2201]

Awsome thanks for the content

[@charlessloop1552]

I normally dose a little heavy on water conditioner. Also I have tested a few times on different size water changes but 25% or less you can add straight cold water from the tap and it won’t drop the temp in tank but 2-3 degrees. But I have had fish get what looks like swim bladder after a water change and I have never really figured out why or how my only conclusion is that they tried to swim up the python tube during the filling of the tank and was getting into the chlorine before the conditioner had a chance to get to it so I started making sure all new water hits the glass or a rock where the fish can’t get into the stream and i haven’t had that issue since

[@elizabethwagner2190]

I need some encouragement fellow fish lovers. I hooked up a new canister filter a couple days ago. I had a hard time getting it to prime. Ended up doing it manually as in several mouthfuls of fish waste water. Now I need to shorten my hoses and am freaking out that it won't self prime again. BTW I've got a tank full of cichlids that should all be killing each other and they are being awesome. It's been stocked for a little more than 6 months. Some are 3-4" now some are 1-2" and I just added a green severam. So far so good.

[@BenOchart]

What kind of canister?

[@elizabethwagner2190]

@@BenOchart I got an aquatop CF500UV MK11. I wanted the newer version but it's what my local Fish store carries so I figured they'd at least have parts or advice. So far it's running well but I still need to shorten main hoses for it to run full capacity. I'm still running 2 double 45gal sponge filters too.

[@kerrypitt9789]

Back when I had trust in the City, I had just cycled a tank, it was looking good so I put a few fish in it. They did well and after the first two days I figured I would do a partial water change, about 20%. I should have tested my source water. I had been assuming it would be okay. The next morning I had a bunch of sick fish. I retested the water but I should have done it earlier. I tested the source water and the ammonia level was off the scale! With a burden like that the fish sustained bad Gill damage and it was too late. I learned a hard lesson.

[@BenOchart]

A common lesson we all learn the hard way

[@terrietime]

Good Morning From Texas

[@EYECPEOPLE]

Thank you this just happened to me... Funny that you posted this thank you...

[@BenOchart]

You’re welcome. Were you able to save the fish?

[@aliencichlids834]

Hello Ben, thanks for the video! It just happened to me for couple tanks water change recently. I did 50% water change with temp water. The water is aged from the drum and I use heater to get about same temperature as fish tank around 78. I add Seachem Safe teaspoon(1/16) 1.5 dosage & prime 10ml into 100g tank. But still get 3-4 fishes died over night. Another 125g tank, I notice the water get cloudy after changing water 40%. It looks like bacteria bloom, but I don't know if it is harmful to those fishes inside tank. It seems to happen when I start to use Safe together. Any idea what I did wrong?

[@BenOchart]

1/4 teaspoon of Safe will treat 300 gallons. Plus Prime it just might be too much (even though I've heard that you can't overdose with those products???). The cloudiness makes me think that you restarted the tank cycling. Did you do anything else that might have upset the beneficial bacteria like a deep gravel vac or filter cleaning?

[@aliencichlids834]

@@BenOchart I feed fish before water change. Then turn off both FX6 & HOB filters. Only run air pump and wave maker when do water change. I think it could be the problem caused bacteria bloom right!? 😟😨I will not feed them before water change anymore.

[@coryfeldman-hz2yj]

My Danio all just died. Pray for dwarf frogs, pleco and cory and baby guppies. 5 gallon tanks are not good. Go bigger. Get plants first.Wait before putting in those dream fish. Danios are pretty hearty . I couldn't believe it. i'll never try to replace half the water ever again.

[@markbaumgardt2868]

I've kept African chichlids over 20 years done thousands of water changes don't use pythons I prefer the old fashioned buckets and put conditioner directly to the bucket never ever had a problem sometimes good old elbow grease is best

[@RaulsAquaticsandReptiles]

🔥🔥🔥

[@jonas2431]

I dont do water changes

[@timetravelkitty425]

Oye vey I have well water here and made the mistake of not pre filtering it and I think it may be on the hard side, but I think I also could have killed off too much bacteria. All I have is a betta but he is well loved by my 14 month old daughter already😅 ok, I may be the one who is more upset if he dies but still😂 I worked in fish departments for too many years (20 years ago haha) to let a betta test my confidence hahaha I mean he’s acting like he has ich but I don’t see any on him although he is white, but he has no tank mates?! I fed him a couple mosquitoes I killed, hoping I didn’t introduce something

[@frankiefingerz8047]

They agree i seen one of them nod lol

[@BenOchart]

That was the Boss-fish. He's the shot caller, LOL!

[@Georgerajeevmuhammed]

Frequency of Water changes what most youtubers promote is not all good for fishes if you have a well cycled large tank and adequate filtaration they take care only on good looks of aquarium not the health of fishes, change water only when absolutely necessary........

[@donteatmybeans8985]

Man I just killed my synodontis and my celestial pearl

[@100bgeagle]

Time for the toilet bowl salute!

[@paulis335]

Your talking to long for the instructions, my fish already died 😢

[@BenOchart]

🤣🤣🤣 have you ever tried “fast forward?” That one’s on you 🤣🤣🤣

[@Candice.BonsaiScience]

Literally just happened to me this morning; I wasn’t doing a huge change, only a 50%. Dosed everything double as I normally do with Fritz complete plus added stress coat because changes are stressful. The only thing different was that I generally add back the water very slowly- Had been using a air tube with it sucking from a 5 gal. Bucket seated above the level of the tank. I instead after the first 1.5 buckets in slow I decided just to dump the bucket in for the next 1.5 buckets. Immediately I had 2 YoYo loach, 1 flag fish, and 1 hillstream belly up on the bottom. The rest gasping at the top of the tank. Immediately grabbed my extra air pump with (2) outlets and ran a double air hose into the tank. Cranked my canister to high to get the most agitation and water movement. Checked my temp and dip sticks. Temp was 2 degrees F higher then before the change. Dip sticks normal. I had already dosed the tank but to be safe added 3x Fritz complete dose. All of that was within 3 mins of fish distress. Then took out the ‘dead fish’, but them in a 1 gal treated bucket with the water temp at 78. The hillstream loach jumped back to vigor even though it was belly up just prior. The other victims were real dead. Then I got out the master kit and took the time to test again since nothing to do except wait- master kit tested normal. No big PH change. I am left with what I believe to be (2) options as it was such a rapid fish distress: the rapid water addition going from 80 to 82 was the cause OR there was an untestable contaminate that got into the tank. 1 hour later the remaining fish resumed their normal activity. - My 5 flag fish survived, my 6 peacocks were fine. All 4 yoyo loach were found dead. The other option I think is last night we had a massive 2.5” down pour of rain - did contamination run off get into my well?

[@BenOchart]

That double dose of conditioner plus the stress coat (essentially more conditioner) might have brought about an O2 issue. Are you running airstones or breaking up the surface with HOBs and/or wave/powerheads?

[@Kyng88]

More than likely it was the sudden powerful stream of water you dumped in. I did this once on accident in a 29 gallon tank and lost 3 fish. I was in hurry and dumped the last bucket in, mst likely scaring them to death. 7 buenos aries tetras went belly up and swimming crazy only 3 died after I grabbed them in net and put them in identical parameter tank with calmer water