Waterproofing Basement Walls with DRYLOK® Paint -- by Home Repair Tutor

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Waterproofing basement walls with DRYLOK paint is an easy DIY project. Even if you brush it on walls the application is simple. And your basement won't have that musty smell.
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The full written tutorial can be found here
www.homerepairtutor.com/water...
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[@Vicky-lv8xb]

Great video. Straight to the point. Concise with good clear direction. Thank you.

[@Moorer2012]

If you have water penetration from the exterior and you seal up the inside, you essentially have sealed the water in the wall and this will eventually cause worse issues ie, faster deterioration and/or hydrostatic pressure.

[@danchase2023]

I'm not sure I understand this, in my situation poured concrete walls built mid-nineties, perfectly dry except I've had 2 injections to fix settlement cracks. Painting just to paint, not meaning to seal. I don't want to put up walls, because I want to KNOW if water is coming in, so I can have it repaired properly, but white looks better than grey. So the hydrostatic pressure is like 10psi right? Enough to push through this flimsy stuff anyway, I would imagine. My takeaway is that if I'm not doing it to waterproof, no different than just putting latex paint on the wall (just more epoxy).. I could scrape the stuff off, it doesn't "penetrate" anything. I think the product is probably good for concrete paint, but not sealant - and I can't imagine water just "sits" halfway up a wall and wouldn't run down or come on through? I'm guessing people try to fix their leaky cinderblock walls from the 60's, and trap water in the inside of that. I watched videos where people can drill a hole and they see water pouring out. Anyone who thinks paint will fix that.. well :) Curious your thoughts

[@brianhakola3425]

If your roof is leaking do you climb on top of your roof or fix it from the attic? The only real fix is to dig up the dirt outside and re-waterproof the walls, any other way is a hack that will probably lead to more problems, and if any contractor tells you otherwise find a new contractor.

[@lmlz3]

@danchase2023 Drylock is designed to hold 15psi. It's primary application is to stop moisture/water penetration. Not a standard paint.

[@Moorer2012]

@@danchase2023 just seeing this a year later, but there’s a lot to unpack here. Hydrostatic pressure can definitely rise vertically up a well sealed wall. The best application is always sealing from the exterior of the foundation by digging down to the footer, cleaning foundation and using your dry-lock/asphalt sealant etc. After doing this you should be able to paint the interior providing you’re all dry. If you just paint over the interior wall with latex paint and you still have a leak or seepage it will surely bubble and crack in no time and start to sweat and or leak, especially a eggshell or flat paint. The higher gloss/acrylic in the paint the more hydrostatic resistance.

[@genecarden780]

@@danchase2023it is not really about the hydrostatic pressure. If moisture is getting into a concrete wall and is trapped inside it will start to wash out the lime and the wall will deteriorate. If no water is getting in it’s not a problem. But f ANY moisture is getting it it is a problem kzbin.info/www/bejne/ppikaHmneZd8iJosi=K7ZhuphIYTt9th11

[@scottwinchester5457]

I just came across your channel and I'm really glad I did. I recently bought my first home. It's an older place, and I've got lots of little projects ahead of me to make it nice, including waterproofing my basement walls (they look almost identical to the walls in your video. Must be a western Pennsylvania thing). I really appreciate how informative your video was and the breakdown of tools and materials you used will make my job so much easier. I subscribed. I'm sure your future and past videos will be helping me a great deal.

[@williamm4442]

This stuff doesn't work. There's no negative side waterproofing that works. This is just masking the issue

[@genecarden780]

@@williamm4442 This mostly true. But crystalline waterproofing DOES work. Technically it is not negative side because it actually migrates all the way through the concrete sealing the pours making the concrete itself waterproof. But you install it to the negative side. After it has had sufficient time to penetrate you can actually remove it from the face of the wall

[@chrisbartos477]

You did a great job. Thank you for your knowledge and expertise. I'm on my way to Lowes.

[@williamwatson171]

Great video. I also recommend adding mold additive to drylok paint since it only protects only mildew. Paint store will add mold additive at extra cost when mixing. Well worth the little extra money

[@rachelharris9513]

Wow! Looks SO MUCH better!

[@JohnHenrySheridan]

Thank you for this very thorough and easy to follow tutorial !! Very helpful. I feel a lot more clear about what I need to do in my basement now.

[@alanunderwoodsr8622]

You need to put extensions on your rain gutter down spouts to drain the water away from the foundation. This is particularly important if you live in an area where there is a lot of rain.

[@Filterfinder]

Corigated tubing is a nice addition

[@sharonducci7089]

Absolutely need to do that I had a new roof put on and new gutters and I pointed the gutters and another direction that I thought would be more beneficial than if it wasn’t and then I put on 4 foot extensions on all four of them away from the house running down a hill in all areas very necessary the gutters are more important to the roof the roof itself is to a certain extent the foundation won’t stay for long if you don’t care for your gutters

[@whitebread940]

Spent a small fortune on basement renovation, it’s not 100% leak proof but rain barrels made a big difference.

[@Grandmomsurvival22]

We used this exact awesome product last week in a older Pgh basement it looks fantastic !! Keep up the good work!!:)

[@gus473]

Yeah, it's pretty good stuff! It IS thicker than regular latex paint, and it requires a heavier-than-typical brush to apply it. But it makes a big difference! 👍

[@tedtolentino4955]

Thanks for sharing your tips and recommendations in using Drylok. Another added benefit is that the 15-yr guaranty on the product is transferable to a new owner.

[@cathcolwell2197]

Helpful video. Thanks for mentioning turning off the furnace, etc..

[@kelgreen99]

Dude gave me exactly what I needed, quickly & without filler. Very informative video!

[@fishycomics]

we have this for over 75 years on our walls, what more can I say, nice job.

[@markmeli1960]

Everyone is sitting here shaking their finger that this is just a bandaid and not a real fix. I live on a hill and don't have many options and spending $20k to excavate the landscaping and do it properly isn't always an option for everyone. This is a great product to help out in conjunction with other solutions.

[@HomeRepairTutor]

thanks Mark for describing the real life situation for many folks. Sure, it would be awesome to excavate and do exterior waterproofing/grading. But unlike HGTV, most of us have budgets and limited funds.

[@markmeli1960]

@@HomeRepairTutor Exactly. Thanks for sharing the video

[@DaCake2]

Well said... especially when you are in a land locked house as a lot of Pittsburgh Houses are. I wouldnt say I have a HUGE water problem, but I notice on heavy rains, I sometimes get a little seepage on the bottom of the walls. Im talking slight dampness. BUT... it always smells a little musty. Would you both say I should just use regular paint as to not cause anymore issues and would a dehumidifier help?

[@aldeenyo5276]

The problem I have is this video is just spreading bad information, and its selling a product that isnt going to do what is advertised. Most people watching this are running out to home depot to pick this shit up and 6 months from now are going to be upset when the product fails and they spent their time and money on this "waterproofing" Hydraulic cement and viscous paint are going to work about as well as play-dough and regular old latex paint if drainage issues are not addressed. Water is taking the path of least resistance and in most cases that means into your basement. Yeah, its expensive to have this problem addressed the right way, but when the foundation splits and the walls shift and half your house falls into a hole, enjoy sleeping at your sisters place. Its a waste of time and effort with the only one benefitting is the company pumping out DryLock.

[@aldeenyo5276]

Oh, and I forgot to mention this guy benefits from the views the video is getting. Now, excuse me while I go duct tape the side of my pool, its got a leak I need to address.

[@J1W2J3W4]

Represent PA!! Just bought a home near New Ken and this is so helpful!!

[@chermayo2190]

Ty saving this!! We have to do this next weekend!

[@masterm2k3]

I am a young homeowner and I'm just learning but this was very helpful

[@kevinmarkey2039]

this will work for a short time only

[@TinRapper]

@@kevinmarkey2039 I figure. We're too comfortable with the idea of 1-2 years is "good enough"

[@eg7647]

We used this paint to cover brick pillars in our fieldstone basement. It has held up really well and really brightened up the space. Now we need to figure out what to do with the cracked and nasty cellar floor.

[@markgibbons4937]

I know that running a dehumidifier is better than nothing. Getting the water away from the foundation is a must.

[@toddk4115]

I have old sandstone walls in my over 100 year old home. My basement was parged and then top coated with white drylock. It held up for over 10 years until it started flaking in spots. I can't complain and never get any water in my old basement. My house it probably over a 100 years old and I'm fixing the areas that flaked and it should hold up another 10 years. Even before I fix any areas I'm still not getting any water in my basement. So for the people who say it will fail and cause more problems it really depends and is a case by case basis. I even had a Professional waterproofer come into my home 5 years ago and he said he really couldn't find any issues and suggested to just continue using a dehumidifier.

[@LDGrillo]

Thank you. About to paint my basement walls with Drylock during coronatine! We’ll see how easy it is...

[@allymkbay]

How did it go?

[@easynickname09]

Very good video, thank you.

[@nenon809]

6:13 that is so satisfying

[@oceaneschool8683]

Thank you I will try the dry lok

[@derreckmckenzie5521]

you cannot seal water out , it will build up pressure which could cause foundation damage and it will always evenually build up enough pressure to get in . until you can properly manage the water problem you want your walls to be able to get the maximum amount of opportunity to pass off water vapour into the air to dry, it needs to breath. You only want to seal the outside, however in above average locations for wet ground capilary wicking may still cause moisture problems even with the outside below grade foundation wall sealed and either an exterior or interior drainage system is nessary. Also the moisture trapped behind the latex paint or sealant could turn into a moldy nightmare.

[@linuxlinux9914]

These people dont understand that water proofing goes on the outside. This is just a bandaid till it turns into a major mess. He should have just painted the walls with a portland cement with enough water to act as a paint then skim with the same color cement of choice. Fixing the gutters and drainage issue would have been a better idea then just locking the moisture in the wall. He isnt going to see the damage till it gets really bad to and then will have to pay a huge amount of money to have the foundation repaired.

[@melindafarnsworth7212]

Well presented. Great job.

[@manganights]

A chemist from the company told me that using the brush would put it into the wall better especially when it’s applied to blocks. Was quick and easy to use, and it takes painting over well. Tinting seems a good option though. A roller will not let you get full benefit from Drylock. It’s an excellent product and well worth using. I used it in a new basement and never had any moisture problems. There may be similar products that do the same, but this one is great.

[@HomeRepairTutor]

great tips, thanks for sharing!!!

[@slayerspam]

Using a thicker nap roller cover on rough surfaces like concrete will perform similarly to brush work.

[@UncaTuck]

That looks great. Putting it on my to do list.

[@justinabean94]

i'm western pa as well and buying my first home. I'm ripping out the pittsburgh potty and wanna get my basement nice and dry so i will be using this. thank you :)

[@CalDeRosia]

Great shirt, Burton is an incredible company

[@aaronspangler6000]

Thanks man just what I need to do in my Pittsburgh basement…

[@WorkingIdeas]

thanks for the good tips..

[@christinajones6625]

Thank you!

[@rajanpatel5051]

Thank you so much!!

[@johndoee9011]

It will never last!! Looking for a cheap way out!

[@tomredd9025]

I have about a half of my basement with Drylock Extreme. We had it tinted an off white. One side of the house is working really well, the other side is letting some moisture in because the walks on the side of the house have settled so that they drain into the side of the house. I will correct that when the weather warms. So far, I am really happy with it. It is thick but goes on and dries smooth. My basement was a lot worst then the basement in the video but now it is really starting to look nice. This is a good product.

[@mathewgould1047]

@Tom Redd did it lower the overall humidity of you're basement?

[@orileclerc4630]

Thanks!

[@HomeRepairTutor]

Thank you!!!

[@kittykatkattitude9777]

Omg this stuff is the truth. I did a room in my basement after watching this video and it does exactly what it claims. My craft room looks great.

[@DaCake2]

Has it held up well?

[@jasonbrown467]

how does it look now?

[@drewhon]

Really well done video thank you from Ohio.

[@lanalovely1538]

I'm in Ohio too

[@LanceZ]

A foundation expert I would like to thank DRYLOK for causing a lot of cinder blocks to disintegrate as it traps water inside the wall. It's made me a lot of money in foundation repairs and proper waterproofing when people do DIY like this :)

[@atthebyrdsnest161]

What state do you do foundation repairs?

[@LanceZ]

@@atthebyrdsnest161 Northern Virginia and Maryland

[@MetalGuitar06]

@@LanceZ what do you suggest to do vs this ?

[@LanceZ]

@@MetalGuitar06 for cmu walls.. drill weepholes and bury lines under the slab to a sump. Keep the water out of the walls. Or waterproof from the exterior

[@hssaville]

@@LanceZ I don't know if you noticed, but the basement wall he was working on appears to be glazed block which can not drain water using weep holes like cement block can. Glazed block has horizontal air cavities not vertical, as you probably know. That's what I have in my basement of my 1901 home. So, assume that the exterior wall is both rubber sealed and has a J channel drainage system put in, what would you use to seal and improve the interior wall adjacent to that exterior wall.

[@islandvoice8667]

Great video

[@lazmotron]

Great Video, I'm subscribing.

[@AtomicQuotient]

Nice thanks, this was a great video.

[@HomeRepairTutor]

thank you, hopefully it helped

[@petermanetta2920]

Great video....can you tell me the walls where you are applying the product need to not be painted first or does it matter ?

[@CogitoBcn]

This is an outdoor product designed to prevent rain entering in the wall. Using this in the inner side of the wall is a huge mistake, it prevents the concrete to "breath" (evaporate moisture), you will need to repaint yearly and in the long term it degrade and damages the concrete wall.

[@markphilpot4981]

Finally, someone who isn’t neurotic and ranting telling us how to waterproof a basement. Excellent choice and as far as I am concerned, the only choice for painting cement walls or concrete. Also, two coats is the correct amount for doing it right! Finally somebody gets it correct! Good job and good video guy! Common sense strikes again! IGL there yah go!

[@HomeRepairTutor]

thank you, as mentioned in the beginning it's not perfect but helps. The ideal situation would be to waterproof the foundation from the outside but that's not feasible or cost effective

[@markphilpot4981]

Home Repair Tutor, I quite understand your desire to waterproof the outside as well as the inside. Cost restraints often jack up what we would rather do if we did not have to worry with money issues. We just have to do the best we can with what we have!

[@skp2158]

I went through every procedure recommended and spent a small fortune on Drylock and hydraulic cement and even an interior french drain. Not a solution because the old brick wall had many cracks and pinholes that allowed water to seep in. Ultimately I was advised that I lived on a high water table and nothing on the inside would be able to resist the pressure from outside (which can quickly compromise whatever you slap on the interior wall). The only real solution is a french drain on the outside as well as applying waterproofing membrane on the outside wall all the way down the foundation (8 feet in some cases). Don't waste your money on things like Drylock because it's mostly cosmetic to make you feel good for a year and then you'll be fighting it again year after year.

[@hypnosiscenternyc]

Thank u very much for this video. Headed to home depot now

[@snakemonkey555]

I've used Drylok before. It's a great product. Thanks for the video.

[@HomeRepairTutor]

you're welcome and thanks for watching. I've been wanting to use this for awhile and our basement just got to the point where it needed an overhaul...BAD!

[@snakemonkey555]

It's funny, my laundry nook looked very similar to your basement wall, product works like a charm.

[@HomeRepairTutor]

Has it lasted, meaning the walls still look good?

[@snakemonkey555]

Yes it has, once in a while I wipe it down but other then that walls look good.

[@HomeRepairTutor]

Good to know, this basement needed a lot of TLC and I'm hoping it lasts for awhile

[@boolanny]

DO A FOLLOW UP VIDEO?????DID IT HOLD UP ???

[@daveseyeball]

Some good tips....thanks for sharing.

[@HomeRepairTutor]

thanks, it's amazing what a coat of waterproofing paint can do for a nasty basement!!

[@dcoblack]

Don’t listen to anyone who says to paint masonry. Especially in a leaky basement. All your doing is increasing the hydraulic pressure which will cause pop out and spalling.

[@bigmacdaddy1234]

Um no. Painting masonry protects it from corrosion. The masonry on my 1936 house has always been painted and still looks great today.

[@mark8664]

Isn't it necessary to use a bonding agent before applying the hydraulic cement?

[@stringX90]

Please do more basement videos! I have old basement JUST like this... I can't afford to completely finish it, but wondering what I can do to make it comfortable enough to be a game room or part-time bedroom.

[@patrickquerry5768]

stringX90 same, how is your project going?

[@Conscioustalk19]

N= B.B. styfggcfcg fgtfcgvh. Hcvvh rccrcttftc. Ebony and stringX90 m.m,,mxx

[@NuclearSavety]

And what exactly shall painting over wet walls do? Seal the water in that it degrades the walls faster? Push the water inside the walls upwards to the wood? ....

[@ellevetica12]

Assuming there are no moisture issues, what should I use to make my basement walls white? Walls are the original (1971) rough gray concrete, and I'm looking for a good cosmetic solution to tide us over until we can get the basement finished. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

[@Vulture-88]

My foundation is 122yrs old. I need to put in a sloping area on the east side. And I hope to pour a large slab of concrete on the back of the house. The south side has okay runoff and I need to rehang all the gutters. I only get 1-2" in certain puddles but it's enough to be super irritating 🙄. I'll get there. Thanks for the info.

[@citticat2]

The drylok I put on years ago needs to come off because I am going to put something new on. I used a grinder to remove this stuff and some won't come off -- I just don't know if it has to all come off for the new to adhere. When I put on the dry lock on I didn't patch the cracks so it didn't work. This time I am patching cracks. I also had some foundation work done to the outside and we put in a new French drain.

[@awolbrickz7745]

I used this product for my home studio which is in my basement....I prolly used 3 or 4 coats... put my wall up..had to romove a panel 5 monthes later for some wiring and found some mold and a good amount of efflorescence ..even in the backn of the wall panels I jad installed so now Im stumped and at a stand still on what to do 🙄.....And for the ones looking into this product notice they have a couple formulas....the first kind i bought seemed a little grittier and did allow moisture in..so I cleaned any molded spots with a wire brush and bleached thoroughly and applied more dry lock but in the "new formula" which seemed less grittier and seemed to contain more latex...so I dont know if this company goofed on their prior batches and released a newer more expensive version ($7 difference per gallon) but i used this...3 coats..left it for 2 monthes..came back..still signs of efflorescence and a few tiny mold spot and thats with no wall panel over that area.. and I figure the severity would have been worse with the panel up and no air circulation hitting it..Just hope this helps someone out cause I'm still battling this problem 🤷‍♂️

[@jenniferkrause2615]

The only other option is basically dig up all around your basement excavation level. And do drainage and seal the outside of the foundation. We have the same. But won't do that as it will be extremely expensive and its a storage for us. And eventually that seal will go again and you'll need to do it again. It's super involved but is the way to do do it.

[@SONICSUPERNATHAN]

can we use roller to paint ? i love your video really helpful ,

[@MrAlexander336]

FYI: fixing negative slope is key to waterproofing the basement. Thanks for the tip about drylock paint! I recommend a jackhammer and tear up the sidewalk to create pitch away from the house (with the crushed concrete from sidewalk and class 5 gravel on top). My basement looks very similar to this but I had more mortar issue with cinderblocks. I will definitely look into drylock paint for the refinish

[@Sazqwatch]

This is so helpful! It is,exactly the issue we have in our basement. Can you tell me how long ago you did this and how it has worked out? Does the moisture still seep through at all?

[@douglaubshire4102]

Don’t waste your money on DryLock. It doesn’t work and it doesn’t stop moisture or active water leaks

[@zacharykicker6436]

@@douglaubshire4102 what do you recommend then?

[@avetsuper6272]

@@zacharykicker6436 outside waterproofing is only solution with drain pipe all over the house (weep tile) and sump pump ..this is only that will work and stop water..but not 100% even that

[@ravencoho]

@@zacharykicker6436 water has to be draining away from house. Solve that first then drylock.

[@frankgavin1717]

Great video - thank you for making this effort. I am continuously surprised that the OEMs of these products are not putting out helpful videos as you have done. The OEM videos I'v seen for these and other products are usually not especially instructive compared with these "home made" videos.

[@zweare1]

Great video and lots of good information. I was thinking about using a HVLP to apply, do you think I would still need two coats? Thanks

[@americanundergroundspecialist]

Please note, that when hydrostatic pressure builds up in the cinderblock, its adds weights to the wall that these cinderblock that it was not created to hold. With that being said cinderblock horizontal cracks are likely to form. If this does happen all the way down the wall, please call and expert. This process is not "waterproofing".

[@crissalamango41]

Not supposed to paint it over paint. I’m in agreement that over time this is likely to cause more problems. Outside wall needs the waterproofing, and not this stuff.

[@srg42787]

Isn’t drylock pointless if it goes over paint? Doesn’t it need to go straight to the block

[@Filterfinder]

Yes it does. Painting on paint will eventually cause the top layer to crack and chip.

[@user-bw5xf3yr3m]

You should of used the 1” nap roller and hit it with the brush if you missed anything with the roller

[@bbrown5887]

As many comments indicate, managing and directing outside water away from the building is paramount. I used the Behr version of this and it’s been a few years now and still as good as day one. The key to success though is to remove any peeling previous coatings or loose paint as possible (if there is any). Also, ensure the cement or cinder block wall is very dry. Run a heater and dehumidifier if necessary as these products need to penetrate the porous surface where they crystalize for great adhesion and sealing so old paint left on the walls limits the new product to the vulnerability of what’s under it. Multiple thin coats as well with adequate drying time in between. Skip any part of this and you are wasting time and money.

[@bernadettefrongillo6938]

Hello seem you know what you are doing... I am trying to do my basement floor with the wall & floor by dryloc and its a nightmare with an old 70 years floor and epoxy paint, I also used the hydroloc cement...do you have any suggestions? can I put the sealor over the epoxy over the paint...if not how do I get it off.

[@bbrown5887]

@@bernadettefrongillo6938 sorry to hear it’s a bear and I know the grief of removing decades old paint from concrete walls and floors. I’ve tried environmentally friendly strippers but they did nothing on the old oil paints. I’ve had great success using a disc grinder with a cup brush attachment. It’s very dusty though so be sure to wear protection etc. That is a fairly inexpensive tool if you shop around a little and it works great. If it’s a small area a heat gun and scraper/wire brush could work but the fumes are dangerous without proper ventilation and breathing protection. You certaily can risk coating over the old painted surfaces but again you’ll be at the mercy of the bonding quality of the old original product. If the old product is extremely hard to come off, then that area is probably ok to leave on there. If you do not trust the old coating to hold and it’s a big area, you are left to use an industrial strength paint/epoxy stripper that you brush/roll on. Once it’s worked it’s magic then finish with a good scrubbing and thorough rinse. Worst case scenerio is if the areas where you have to leave any previous coating ever peels, you only need strip, clean and recoat that specific area. Hope this helps.

[@gditd9310]

should i use this on my garage after getting rid of molds (which are on ceiling) ? or will it cause more problem?

[@brandonbug2000]

If there is a substantial amount of water behind the stem wall, trying to seal the wall will only increase the amount of hydrostatic pressure which can create big issues down the road. I have been installing drainage systems for 13 years.

[@brarautorepairs]

You are 100 percent right and I feel that corporate greed is at work here trying to fool people into thinking you can prevent water ingress in your basement by applying a sealer on the inside. The only repair from the inside should be with an expanding foam and epoxy. You should then follow up with working outside to remedy the core issue of the problem which normally is having too much water against the foundation. Simply directing water away from the home is often enough to help

[@zacharykicker6436]

@@brarautorepairs right but like he said it's landlocked, so what would your proposal be, grade the cement higher?

[@brarautorepairs]

@@zacharykicker6436 if there is no way to direct the water away from the house then the last option is to install a sump pump inside the basement

[@Roju22]

Any update how this held up over time? Looks exactly like my basement.

[@sparkleinyoureyes8259]

Thanks for video !! It looks simple enough but how often do I have to do this??

[@manganights]

I was told that it could not be rolled on by company scientist when I used it in my basement. Very effective product.

[@luvdr350]

I rolled my basement in drylok... worked fine

[@manganights]

I’ve seen it done rolled on. As far as I could tell it worked fine. May only be a small difference. The product works regardless. It’s been a while since I’ve used it. It may have improved. The label used to say to brush on but that may only have been back when I used it.

[@luvdr350]

@@manganights i didn't read the label lol its essentially paint so didn't really think i had to. oh well. I rolled it on and touched up any holes with a brush. seemed faster

[@manganights]

The only surface that would seem different is blocks. The rough texture supposedly gets filled by tiny things like the old Superballs that used to be popular. But even on that it would protect rolled on.

[@-.__.__.-Rad]

@@manganights Is it still holding up? Or is it peeling off again?

[@olgalucialeguizamonreinoso4581]

Hi, I saw your video and enjoyed the good and easy recommendations, and I was wondering if I can use these products also on the basement floor?

[@e46Kyle]

Nope. If you pause when he shows the can instructions, it says that it's not for horizontal surfaces that will receive foot traffic.

[@peterkotzPete]

Great video. Curious what others have found when working w/ Structural Clay Tiles (telephone tiles), in older houses. Drylok is used for concrete... What have folks used for Structural Clay Tiles?

[@bjknecht1144]

Great video! How long does gas line need to be off? I'm assuming until paint is dry but could you please advise? Thanks!

[@preyingmathis2517]

The drylok I used was waaaay thicker than that. Was like trying to paint with caulk

[@suzannecogar717]

@@heyjohnsmith wouldn't that would smell horrible and make a room rather unlivable??

[@donhill1825]

@@suzannecogar717 the paint thinner doesn't last indefinitely. Paint is thinned all the time.

[@csimet]

Agree with other commenters... fix the water issue and get it away from the foundation (especially that downspout that dumps right next to the wall). Generally speaking.... vertical cracks = foundation settling (expected in any basement, show up at weak points like windows, corners, etc.), horizontal cracks = bad and the wall may be pushing in. I try to chisel a square grove, not a v-notch, for my hydraulic cement. It holds better. Injectable polyurethane is what I use to seal the crack inside the wall, after I fill any major cracks with hydraulic cement, leaving removable nails in through the cement to provide port access to inject.

[@donovanwilliams5424]

Do NOT seal the interior of basement walls. If water is getting to the wall from the outside, this will just lock the water in until it comes through the wall on the inside (usually peeling the paint)

[@TheHeadincharge]

That’s not actually a proper explanation on why this could be bad… if the water pressure is high enough that it may peel the paint, then this product is already incorrect to use. Understand WHEN it’s appropriate to use this product is more important than just making all or nothing statements. If you have active water intrusion, this is not the correct product. If you have minor leaks that occur when it rains due to a high water table, this is a great solution.

[@genecarden780]

@@TheHeadinchargeNo it’s not. Trapping water inside a concrete wall will cause it to deteriorate. It will leech out the lime. I’ve seen it many times. It is common knowledge in the waterproofing industry. Any moisture in the wall has to be able to get out on the negative side. Period. It doesn’t even matter if it’s an active interior leak many times it scapes in the form of vapor. That’s why many basements née dehumidifiers. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ppikaHmneZd8iJosi=K7ZhuphIYTt9th11

[@benhawkins1495]

I have an old storm shelter that does get about 6-7inches of water in it only when it rains extremely hard for a few days, but otherwise has a hairline crack around the middle circumference of the shelter that weeps some in the summer but not enough to cause water to pool. The walls are concrete slab. Do you think a product like this is a good fit?

[@haydenpatton219]

I'm from western Pennsylvanian also! beaver county, next to Pittsburgh

[@HomeRepairTutor]

I was just over your way for a bathroom remodel 👍🏼

[@china7843]

Hi! I'm from Taxachusetts. If you have water coming to the inside, you might have to seal it from the outside first, Is costly but worth it. I did this when I bought my duplex and have no problems with water coming inside. Still have humidity smell after but no water, and about two years ago I painted inside with DRYLOK and put a dehumidifier, and after all that is perfect no smell at all. If you have mold or mildew, those two are dangerous, better save than sorry. Specially If you, or any of your tenants are asthmatic, that can be a big problem, trust me, I talked from experience. Check estimates with different companies and then check with your mortgage company if you can take a loan against the house, so you can fix it the right way, I mean just a little advice. You won't regret it. Good luck with everything. 😊

[@scottstewart1267]

I'm only a couple hours north of you in Erie, Pa

[@sachmin2002]

luv u dude

[@1957kwick]

Would like to see it after the first winter to see how it held up.

[@brandonschwab3692]

if it holds up, it means there is no real moisture problems and you can accomplish the same thing with a basic primer. Primer is better because you want the moisture to come through the wall and allow dehumidifier to work. If it is holding water behind, you will have mold growth behind the paint in the future because it is constantly wet.

[@wolfspider1910]

It does NOT hold up. Failed within 2 months in my garage. I DID ALL the proper procedures. Still failed.water psi pushes thru and mold still grows. Internal drain and pump worked.

[@DaCake2]

@@brandonschwab3692 Why would there be mold behind the block?

[@brandonschwab3692]

@@DaCake2 water/vapor barrier.. its between block and the paint- causes odor and cant hold the water pressure/water vapor back- it can for a bit and as it does hold it back- it creates moisture behind paint- that gives a food source and moisture- for example remove moisrure painr and prong with moisture meter- always higher enough to cultivate mold vs normal breatheable paint or primer water vapor passes ans can air dry

[@steveststeve2440]

@Mike Wilhelmson i use kilz

[@ledihealinghandsholidaythe3240]

Goot job

[@pepsiisunderrated]

Awesome video. I work two jobs and am pressed for time. Would I be able to do a wall in sections, come back and do the rest later, or would I pretty much have to do a whole wall's primary coat at once?

[@HomeRepairTutor]

I actually had to do this basement in sections due to time constraints. So you should be okay.

[@yournyc]

I did it in sections with no problems. Prep work is key.

[@PleaseHelpMeGetSubscribersThan]

Is drylock a block filler? I was thinking of buying block filler, are they pretty much the same thing?

[@MalikSucksAss]

Were you able to get rid of the musty smell?

[@heatheran4783]

I thought you couldn't do this if the walls were already painted but I'm absolutely going to be doing this soon. Great video.

[@danlaur7973]

UGL does say not to paint over existing paint on the walls before using their products

[@AnhLuong13.6]

this job can not against iced in winter

[@PaulaJoW]

Why is the water dribbling out of a spout right at the exterior wall (0:54)? Wouldn't adding a downspout extension keep the water away from the house and, in turn, keep your basement drier? Good video, btw.

[@yournyc]

Good point

[@ravencoho]

Exactly! Extend the gutter to lower point.

[@KP68videogates]

Any seeping walls should be properly fixed. Water will find its way through drylock eventually. For controlling humidity levels, I used drylock extreme. Great stuff for that.

[@francoisgs1]

is this product can be applied on a wet wall inside a cellar ?? thanks

[@TinRapper]

I'm interested to see the result sometime later. Any random paint can make a basement dry, the question is what happens not 2 or 5 years later? (They usually fail after 1-2 years)

[@cybersylo5786]

Bottom line, This is great to apply after you fix the exterior drainage issues of your home. It doesn't matter what you smear, wipe, or cover your basement wall until you actually fix the root issue, which is water staying up against your exterior basement walls. This by itself is a short term band-aid that is doomed to fail. Make sure you do your homework before you throw away your money.

[@peteabraham8]

AMEN!

[@mathewgould1047]

@Cybersylo can fixing the grading around you're house not just keep water out, but will it also lower the humidity in the basement some??

[@cybersylo5786]

@@mathewgould1047 It will help alot to have water flowing away from the home, but even then if the ground becomes saturated you still need drainage to take ground water away from the foundation.

[@cyberspoce04]

@@cybersylo5786 when you say drainage are you referring to an internal sump pump or external French drain

[@cybersylo5786]

@@cyberspoce04 In some instances it may be the same. An actual fix for this issue is not cheap. A water barrier and drainage system need to be applied to the exterior wall of the basement. This means a trench needs to be dug so the barrier and drain can be applied. If you are in an area where there are no natural drainage options, An exterior sump pump will be needed to pump the water to the street and off the property. If you live up north where the ground experiences a deep freeze in winter, having wet and undrained soil against the basement can actually cave in the walls to the basement and move the wall off the foundation.

[@roberthubbard9259]

How did the DRYLOCK work?

[@pbelschner]

Thanks for this video. It was posted in 2017. So, my question is this - how did it hold up and did it actually help with the moisture in the basement? I'm in Pittsburgh as well and have a similar situation in my basement. Thanks

[@Schultz-ko3ve]

We Drylocked our basement when we built our house in 1987. Just sold the house this year (Feb 2021). In 34 years we never had a problem with moisture in the basement and the paint held up quite well. Building a new home now and I'm going to Drylock the basement before I move in.

[@gamermom60]

Thank you, very comprehensive, after the 2 coats of DryLock paint, can you paint over that later... say you want to change color?

[@yournyc]

Same question. All white looks like it will dirty too easily.

[@cherylcraig-white3811]

Will this work in a storm cellar?