WBE S1 E28 Bow, Transom & Rear Deck

Happy to be mostly constructing as opposed to deconstructing, Scott makes some big steps forward this week on the transom and rear deck area. #woodenboatrestoration #chriscraftboats #stlawrenceriver #1000islandsny
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[@jamesharmon5963]

Thanks for sharing. I’m enjoying the boat restoration project very much 😎

[@glassgoat9601]

Thanks! Glad you're aboard and enjoying it.

[@michaelangell1542]

Thanks for showing the mistakes and .... how you deal with them! Didn't mean to jinx you :) Being a relative newbie (to wooden boats), I have found myself doing things two or three times and thinking "how many times do I have to do this to get it right"?. There is a satisfaction about not getting discouraged and solving problems when the unanticipated happens. The summary and narrative at the end was good. I was wondering about the wood choices and the "restoration vs. resto-mod" viewpoint. I think what you said is spot-on. My frustration has been with obvious major changes in a boat being made and someone calling it "original". Thanks and keep it up!

[@glassgoat9601]

Glad you're watching and able to take a joke! It wasn't that long ago that I was a newbie, just keep working at it. It gets easier all of the time. Wait until you see the change I thought up the other night as I was falling asleep, purists won't like it, but I think it is going to be a nice add to the boat.

[@pcahill10]

Look for your board stretcher next to the left handed smoke bender.

[@glassgoat9601]

I decided to instead measure twice before cutting.

[@kengifford3714]

Arm over the side, hand in the spray

[@glassgoat9601]

Never gets old.

[@teddill4893]

Nice touch with the king plank. Your planning on finishing this as "Bright" if I remember correctly? With the bronze hardware it will pop beautifully. Keep up the good work.

[@glassgoat9601]

Thanks Tedd. I realized after I uploaded the video that I forgot to include the hull number I found on the deck support board. I filmed it especially for you. It takes about 8-10 hours of editing to put one of these video together. At the end my brain is mush.

[@glassgoat9601]

And yes, will be finished bright.

[@teddill4893]

@@glassgoat9601 I totally understand. Your editing is great. Thank you for all the extra work you put in to film and edit content.

[@ianadkins471]

Great video. Love how Speckles does not seem to get the point that boat work is more important than playing chase the ball. 😊

[@glassgoat9601]

I was editing today and realized how many times he does that and I don’t even notice. I feel bad and will make amends!

[@freshlysquosen]

Always great to see your progress Scott. Arabella could have used your board stretcher. ;) Cheers from Saskatchewan, the land of one hundred thousand lakes.

[@glassgoat9601]

Yeah, Stephen came up a bit short on that plank, didn't he??

[@williamsmith2804]

Scott, what is the 5200 material use are using? I enjoy watching you working on the boat.

[@glassgoat9601]

5200 is a 3M product that seals and is adhesive. Very permanent. I probably would've used epoxy to put that piece on the transom, but it is still cold in the boat shed at night.

[@williamsmith2804]

@@glassgoat9601, thanks...........

[@deemychales]

5200 for the bedding and which compound/ epoxy for the seams

[@glassgoat9601]

I bedded the dutchman on the transom and everything on the transom when I installed it with 5200. The rear deck plywood, the king plank and the teak trim was bedded with Boatlife Life Caulk. I also filled the cracks on the outside joints between the transom boards with this. The life caulk is a little easier to deal with, and clean up issues are better on areas that are going to be finished bright later. 5200 seems to get everywhere, and I consider myself a pretty "clean" worker. Below the waterline, I usually use 5200.

[@deemychales]

Morning what is the name for the seam compound that you use?

[@glassgoat9601]

I think you are asking about the Boatlife Life Caulk. Works good but follow the directions and maybe google it or try to find it on KZbin. You need to make sure to help it adhere to the edges of the boards by maneuvering it physically (wiping along with gloved finger, etc) or it may just float there. Smells funny as well. Good luck!

[@jimmygrant3212]

Great work. I wouldn’t use those stainless screws if they get sealed crevice corrosion will usually occur and even if it doesn’t cause iron sickness the metal looses its strength. Order bronze machine screws and use the stainless PM nuts bronze and stainless work just fine together. Would also recommend using Sandusky bilge paint once you’re ready to paint. starfishmedical.com/assets/Galvanic-Table.png here’s the unshaded blocks are the corrosion resistance of stainless when in a low oxygen environment causing it to go into an “active” state instead of passive.

[@glassgoat9601]

I planned on only using them temporarily to pull the parts together and hold them until I found the PM nuts in bronze, I have the screws in bronze already. I am a firm believer in no stainless below the waterline. Should've explained better what I meant. Sometimes what I'm thinking in my head doesn't make it into the video :) Still waiting until I see how the degreaser works on the center section of the wood in the bilge. I will definitely paint everything from outside the stringers up to the gunnel with bilge paint, but I'm not sure about the center section. I clean my bilges each year and find that often the paint in that area just ends up half scraped off from cleaning anyway which looks worse than no paint. I also find a lot of what is in the limber holes is the paint that has fallen off. If the wood was new, I'd definitely paint it though.

[@jimmygrant3212]

Glass Goat I’ve never seen the #8 or smaller PM nuts in bronze in the last 10 or so years. Stainless PM nuts are ok since they’re exposed to the air and not sealed. Bronze nuts without washers work when they’re pulled into the wood they won’t loosen over time that’s how Cruisers, Thompson, and I think lapstrake Penn Yans were built but obviously that would still take two people to use. I think #10 PM nuts might be made in Bronze… check Top Notch fasteners if they don’t have them then no one has them.

[@glassgoat9601]

@@jimmygrant3212 I will, thanks!