We FAILED OUR ELECTRICAL INSPECTION! Now What?!

[@travislaw9367]

Jessie, do yourself a favor and put another breaker box on the main floor of the house. Depending on the number of circuits, it may become a nightmare running the Romex between the garage and main floor. That way you only have to run a main feed wire up between the main and garage. I'm not an electrician, but it seems like that might make your life a lot easier when you start up there.

[@wolfgangsalingre9439]

Too bad, you guys don't seem to actually read these comments! I mentioned the GFCI breakers about a dozen videos ago. A GFCI outlet is NOT required at each location when you use (and save money) a GFCI circuit breaker to protect the ENTIRE CIRCUIT, on as many circuits as required or needed!!!!

[@jackonthefarm5540]

Interesting factoid... While GFCI means Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter, many people think that a missing or bad safety ground will cause it to trip. Not at all the case. What trips a GFCI is if the current in the "Line" or "Hot" wire does not exactly equal the current in the neutral wire. If you are being electrocuted, some of the current normally in the neutral wire is going through your body to ground. However another cause for tripping a GFCI is if you accidently wire a circuit to the neutral wire of another circuit. This is easy to do in new construction. The GFCI trips immediately and repeatedly until the wiring problem is found.

[@BoomStickTactical]

You should have gone with the homeline panel from square d and used the plug on combination breakers. They're very common and available at every home center.

[@richardpaton2339]

Ask your Inspector if it wouldn't be possible to put in a subpanel up stairs to wire that floor into from power from the basement panel. It would be a lot less work than running all of the wires down to that panel.

[@alane6555]

FYI for future use. We used to use ground clips on metal boxes that did not have provision for a ground screw. Ask the inspector of these are still allowed. The ground wire folds over the edge of the box and the clip is pushed over it to maintain a good connection. Also it might be an idea to plug mount it if you add another overhead heater. Don't mind the people that scoff at following the code, that attitude can cause fires and deaths. Hats off to your inspector, it is great when they act in an advisory role, most do but some don't.

[@FieldtoFarm_UK]

Your channel is so great fingers crossed people enjoy our videos as much for our off grid farm

[@adubbelde1]

I channeled the NM cable in our ICF's. According to our inspector, as Long as the wire is back 1 1/4" and held in place with foam, no other securement was necessary.

[@stevemcentyre1570]

You mentioned that your little 20 circuit panel is about to get crowded. Like I told you earlier, you need a 42 circuit panel. The law of garages applies here. "You will expand to fill all available space. If you insist on keeping the little panel you have, you will need some sub panels in several locations. The solution is to use the panel you have as a garage sub panel and put a main panel in the living space. Do not be stubborn and understand that often esthetics is the enemy of practicality.

[@jakes.1199]

GFI's save thousands of lives PER YEAR. They are a god send to the electrical world. WELL worth the investment. Trust me, i've tripped one standing in water beside my swimming pool and using a switch. Don't know if i would have died or not, but glad there was a GFI there. Still hurt my arm up to my shoulder before it tripped. GFI's are a no brainer.

[@chrisbolomey8667]

you can get a GFI that covers the whole box.They use them in Canada alot.I would use that.It would make the hole box GFI

[@pietkaify]

In the UK we fit GFI on everything now within a domestic house. We call them RCD's or RCBO's are the all in one device(Residial current devices) and all breakers have built in lock out design.

[@chrisnyberg4481]

Stove 240 outlet. Almost positive that your 50 amp outlet only allows one wire per screw. So putting the #10 bonding and #6 power wire isn't code. NEC 2017 Article 110.14A

[@rkalle66]

lesson to learn: talk with the inspector on what is required or not and nobody else. This is the guy who is up to date on code requirements and the one who can give advice (hopefully he will do). Especially when you are a first timer DIY

[@TheSoloAsylum]

You should have put the temporary breaker feeding the house as the GFI breaker, then the inspector can say anything about it. Says me, an actual electrician. Temp power is treated entirely different then perm power. Your mistake was getting an electrical inspection in a temp state. I don't understand your reason for having one at this stage.

[@TheRealTonyCastillo]

Need to just rip out that 30 space panel and get a 40 or 42, MLO panel, 1-for the additional room and 2- You're going to need the spaces. Unless you run a 100 amp sub feed to another MLO panel upstairs. Sucks having to redo stuff isn't. There is a reason we Electricians charge what we do, experience!

[@altatude9677]

Don't bother with lock-out breakers, just cord connect all of your devices. ie water heater, furnace, range, aux. heaters. I'm a retired electrician.

[@sanctifiedcustoms]

PRO TIP*****are you sure the inspector didn`t say arc fault breakers****** if indeed it needs the gfci a alternate to breakers would be to install a rack of gfci receptacles at the panel and feed thru them.

[@MonsoonEast]

I was initially like "Grrrr, %$&@^ codes" but then I remembered the house across the street that burned down last year. It was started from a circuit in the garage wiring faulting out. GFCI would have stopped that. No one was home at the time so all were safe. The bad/interesting part was that the homeowner is an electrician.

[@ScalpingSATs21]

Alert... If your electrician hasn't already told you, You need to get the inspector to clue you in on the amount of ARC Fault breakers your gonna have to purchase. Also, all the kitchen plugs are gonna have to be GFCI/AFCI receptacles. Even the ones farther away from the sink. In the last three years it's gotten very expensive to wire a house.

[@martinostlund1879]

We have 1 GFI breaker for our whole house here in Sweden, much easier and cheaper.

[@dannyoktim9628]

Is there a reason why you buried the electrical panel in the wall rather than flush mounting it to the same wall inside the utility room onto 3/4 plywood?

[@garyallsebrook3493]

As preciously suggested, I would run separate sub panels for every floor to make distribution and local access easier.

[@isabellmizizzy214]

Ground clip for that metal box and extension would have be easier. You could use wire ladders for that stud bay, reason they are made. Don’t forget to add kock out plugs so u pass inspection. the NEC is designed or made to protect life and prosperity.

[@brian31501]

In hindsight, I would plan on putting in a sub panel somewhere up stairs in the house. You'll have that main filled before you know it.

[@timbroderick3831]

You might also check with your home owners insurance company about will they payout a claim if things like electrical system are’t up to code.

[@waynejanik9668]

Thank you for the update and sharing. This was interesting information. I know lockouts are for commercial, but never hear of them for residential property. Place GIF circuit breakers have been required in may areas for a few years on new construction. :< Keep up the good work. EMT boxes, the easy way to remove the tabs is to hit the tab with the front of electricians plyers. This will push the tab into the box. Now you can use the plyers to ply the tab out by moving it back and forth. Hope the helps. When removing a 3/4 tab, first remove 1/2 tab, then reach in to remove 3/4 tab, this will all take lest then 15 seconds. Trying to use a screwdriver is to much work. I think when you where putting the 50 amp plug back together it looked like you placed 2 ground wires into the plug and screwed them down. Not sure if I saw that correctly. If this is true please fix. Only one wire can be inserted or attached to each screw on outlet or switches. This should be a pigtail. The issues is the wire could over time come lose and short, or you lose your ground.

[@andrewpowellnz]

Well done Jesse. But to be fair the electrician that has been helping you probably didn't know about the rule if building while occupying you needed GFI breakers on everything

[@corinnacoreycoulsonengle7797]

We had the same problems with electrical issues as you did in your video and we live in Illinois. My wife and I have been following you from day 1. We think you and your wife are awesome.

[@chuckr8683]

The line of sight is correct in residential. Hot water heaters, well pumps and other appliances that cannot be "unplugged" need their own safety shutoff if the panel breaker cannot be seen from the appliance. In lieu of that there needs to be a lockout on the breakers that can be locked with a padlock. Section 422.30 of the National Electric Code (NEC) requires a disconnecting means for all appliances.

[@andrewcourt5156]

It is bad practice to test that the power is off on a circuit using the a “non contact” tester.. you should only test with a meter via the test leads or a test lamp.. it is too easy to get a false indication or lack of indication with the non contact...

[@brianzeh7719]

You need to use is a romex stacker for the small stud bay. you can hold up to 6 romex and it keeps the wires in the center of the bay.

[@ScottDowneywoundedbear]

I have been renovating my house for 4 years and not an expert but one thing I have learned if its metal ground it. If you want to future proof your electrical system, use GFCI/ACFI and/or ACFI on everything. The new rules are going this way. The cost of putting in electrical is going through the roof.

[@Justin-bb2hj]

I can’t believe they didn’t know about the breakers lol however you can’t get GFCI or AFCI tandem breakers and that panel is not near big enough for your house. You’re going to have to get a larger panel or install a sub panel upstairs

[@nmopzzz]

Its learning experience for all. That's what happens when you do things slightly different from the norm. How many DIYer live in their house while building it and do it to code at the same time and push the edges like you are doing. Congrats on working through the issues.

[@LeahsSoccerJourney]

So our jurisdiction not only adopted a GFCI but everything has to be arc fault circuit protected as well if you were putting in new

[@redhauscreator146]

I would have run all of that electrical on the ICF walls in EMT conduit. And then I would have refilled over top of the conduit after the inspection. And it would have looked really good. That's what I have done in my own garage.

[@sminer8257]

We did a large remodel (2nd floor), Nd I did all the outlets flex, etc. Put the metal plates on! It's worth it. Also take pictures for future remodeling. I know you think a video is enough, but, consider sequencing the pics with a yard stick so you can go back to the exact spot you need. Good luck

[@davidhutchison3343]

We installed GFI breakers to our house, even when they were not required, because of the safety issue. You quickly forget about the extra cost involved. Peace of mind - priceless.

[@Azone14]

Great Job. I see the points of the drywall screw coming thru the electrical box securing studs (Stud Bays) and the screw point is popping out next to wires 33:40 .I think the screws may be a hair long. Thanks for sharing and Happy New Year

[@XLAMitchell]

The code requires Arc Fault breakers which is what he showed in the video. They are expensive and now required in most parts of the dwelling. They are more sensitive than GFCI.

[@shawnd567]

Also why did you unhook all the wires in the water heater when all you needed to do is untwist the grounds and add a wire to ground the box?

[@Jdefries1]

Hindsight is 20/20, I work for a utility company and I think it might have been cheaper to put a disconnect sub-panel where your sub-panel is and used a main disconnect GFI breaker at your sub-panel it would have covered all the breakers in that panel. just a thought for those doing something similar.....

[@eugenerice7054]

I have never heard of the need to put a Lock Out device on the breaker in a residential! only in a commercial application! As for the GFCI, that must be a local code requirement! I just looked it up in the code book and it is only required for temporary use. with that said, I can understand the need for like the range, fridge, washer/dryer since they will be moved later once the house is completed. but the water heater.... that is permanent. Oh well, really don't understand these requirements for residential! Good Luck!! enjoy the video's!! Congratulations on the family addition!!

[@zippythechicken]

should have used conduit on that wall with the stove.. thats just a lot of mess .. even surface mounted conduit would have been better.

[@fsoileau]

The inspector can approve two types of connects to a power utility line. 1.Temporary power such as a job-site temp power pole or 2. Electrical Service Connection after a final inspection. What is odd is that the power company connected to your main entrance before you had it inspected and approved as a Temp Power Entrance. GFCI's are required because temp power must be protected for outdoor / personal use because it for construction. Your inspector is bending over backward to make it work for you, because most would say install a temp pole and then you would need to jumper from temp pole to your main entrance and wow would drop amps available. Your inspector can't take money, some of that yummy home made jam may be in order.

[@pastordougfletcher87]

Hats off to you Jesse and Alyssa for all the safety measures you are tending to.

[@olddawgdreaming5715]

Better safe than sorry, good job Jesse. Glad it's all working out for you and your family. Thanks for sharing.

[@TheJeffersm]

You need to go get a second opinion. The idea that you need lockouts in a residential circuit is absolute rubbish

[@TokyoCraftsman]

Please Jesse get yourself an electricians pouch and a belt to hang it on, then all your sparky tools are in one place, you just grab the belt with pouch and go to work. I have and very much like the Veto Pro TP3B google it, but there are LOTS of great tool pouches. You have a LOT of electrical work to do coming up, save time and make your work flow better by getting a tech or electricians pouch, trust me on this one. Love the videos. Cheers from Tokyo

[@kennethgibbons2487]

Great to have you back again - every one needs a break but I have missed you and my wife has missed bugaboo. Great job on the electrical changes.

[@fd3871]

you've added about 200% more work by not running metal conduit in place of your romex. now you've gotta screw guard that whole wall. also you could have used all of the knockouts if you just mounted the breaker box on the icf wall in the utility room. you wouldn't have had to deal with stud bays or that 2ft where the wires are exposed in your "storage" area

[@mattlane7888]

Jessy... consider spacing the reaming wall outlets 4’ apart to reduce drilling zip tie wire anchors.

[@RussWhite]

Is that breaker GFCI only? By the looks, its also AFCI fault which would make sense as they're designed to protect against damaged wiring. (Ground Fault vs Arc Fault)

[@ronjohnson2073]

I like your thought process where you’re trying to do the right thing not only for the safety of your family but to also satisfy the inspectors, which are actually trying to keep you and others safe. So, keep up the good work you’re doing. Also keep n mind that y’all are teaching others at the same time. 😃

[@orinkerr4332]

Might suck now to redo all your stuff but i think you will be happy that you did it down the road.

[@kardeef33317]

Instead of using a lockout you could put a disconnect or a plug and outlet. The reason is that if the breaker isn't in line of sight is so while working on it, someone doesn't go and flip on every breaker when there lights not working. I have personally been working on something when a idiot removes the don't turn on tag, breaks the lockout and turns it on. The whole time they had a bad cord.

[@erickstiner1668]

I am about six months away from building our home and to see your calm nature, in dealing with electrical inspection issues, is very reassuring. We all have heard of horror stories about the “CODE “ and inspectors. Thank you for reminding me, it’s not about government overreach, it’s about learning to do it right....(Default- IMO)

[@dfiler2]

The easy way of removing knockouts is with pliers. One hit with the pliers to dislodge the metal. Then use the pliers to wiggle the knockout until it breaks free. No need for a hammer ever.

[@wvpolekat]

Dont mess with the lockout mess. Put a disconnect or switch at the device. Way better/easier.

[@chartle1]

28:41 i'm very surprised you didn't need to use conduit with the nail plate issue.

[@sbuzz5889]

number 10 grd needs a lug not a screw .just put a lock on panel door for lock out breakers and sign the panel -- see home owner for key to lock an put padlocks on exterior panels same key

[@joellenbroetzmann9053]

I noticed your washer door ajar. Good thinking! Keeps the mold out! I was also told by a washer repairman that if you use the chutes on the washer for feeding in the soap and fabric softener, the residue can create mold. He told me to add what I want in the washer via the big door, and instead of using liquid softener, use sheets. I have heard horror stories from front loader owners who didn't keep the door ajar and did use the liquid softener chute. I'm on my 2nd home with front loaders with zero problems!

[@Azone14]

Great Job. I see the points of the drywall screw coming thru the electrical box securing studs (Stud Bays) and the screw point is popping out next to wires (33.40 mark) .I think the screws may be a hair long. Thanks for sharing and Happy New Year

[@martyvanderhelm7774]

I agree with 180 from average ( great handle by the way) In my jurisdiction locking out the panel is sufficient.

[@flogit100Michael0Martin]

i miss the daily uploads but im glad you are still posting :) the house is looking amazing

[@shaynegadsden]

This is one of the reasons only qualified electricians can do electrical work in Australia Edit: Simplified gfi weither 120v or 240v the supply goes through a coil of wire ( like how a clamp meter works) but because both sides of the circuit go through the coil they cancel each other out, but if some of the power out and doesn't return either cause by a fault or an unlucky person a small voltage is generated in the coil once this exceeds a preset amount the breaker turns off

[@vdwalt4464]

Question???? Could you have use a GFI breaker system the protects the whole house. That's what we did at a cost (including installation) of $125. It protects every circuit but we still used GFI plugins in all the water danger areas also. Safety in home electrical systems has been in the past very iffy at best.

[@MikeR1234]

I feel like 99% their issues with the exterior wall could be solved by a simple furred out wall.

[@official180degrees]

Can't you just put a lock on the panel itself instead of locking off each breaker?

[@Greenskycity]

for the water heater, place an air conditioning disconnect near it. That will allow you to not have to lock out the breaker. Also, Dont forget, ground faults are one requirement, on final inspection you will need arc fault breakers in a lot of areas of the house as well, so plan on changing some of the single pole breakers out to combination arc/GFCI breakers.

[@Bungee75]

GFI Breakers are mandatory here for certain places like bathroom and garage etc. It's for your own safety. I rather pay a "bit" more and be safe. And on the end, you can leave GFI breakers in permanently, you don't need to remove them.

[@TiceNBT]

I thought this thought for some time, but this video confirmed my intuition. ICF blocks seem more of a pain than what it is worth. Rent forms, pour walls, then when ready to finish hang foam boards. Any thoughts?

[@fsoileau]

I think you have a misunderstanding of nail plate protection. The nail plates apply to penetrating structural member (studs, plate, joists, rafters etc) not void spaces such as stud bays.Your inspector wants 1-1/8" because the code requires drywall nail or screw to penetrate into the member 1". Notice common drywall screws and nails 1-5/8" and not 1-1/2", this is because it is perfect to comply with 1/2" and 5/8" drywall leaving min 1" into the member. If you have a 3-1/2" stud or plate and a standard 1" hole on center. ( 3-1/2" stud with a 1" hole = 2-1/2" which equals 1-1/4" each side and safe). If your hole is not on center you need to protect the inferior side with a nail plate. So if the wire or pipe less than 1-1/8 " deep into the stud or any nailing pattern protect it.

[@dalemarshall9736]

You likely will run out of spaces in the box when you wire upstairs and will have to put a sub panel somewhere upstairs to carry the additional breakers you will need.

[@hi-friaudioman]

I agree, you couldve just put a 200A GFI breaker on the main disconnect to get around that part of the code instead of buying a GFI breaker for every single circuit.

[@davidmoran4471]

remember none of the knockouts in the bottom, where you removed the romex to re route, can be open, they must have a plug in them.

[@murraywagnon1841]

Good Information! You should use that metallic extension box from the range outlet on the water heater junction box to make that box code compliant based on the number and size of the wires you have in that box.

[@codenameheirbornewithrobbi7418]

don't forget to get plugs for the panel where you abandon holes/knockouts in the panel

[@scottt8424]

Hey Jessie hey Alyssa great video and it's nice to see you two working together again even though it was for a short. Amount of time that you did work together and those Breakers that you put away for three years I think you should put them on Craigslist and then you should be able to get your money back that way

[@sirmiro2]

Your electrical system really makes things complicated. In Sweden our GFI cost ~$20 and one single GFI cover everything. And we uses 10A breakers for most stuff. Really fun to see 4th the difference over the world.

[@CSMartin]

Has it occured to you yet that you can put out a 40 minute video, and people still watch and love your content? You have something rare. The effort you put in is paying off. Keep up the great work.

[@MrEelcoheijm]

this is why we do not work in the Netherlands wires in the wall so there is an auxiliary pipe around the wire for safety.

[@kylemierau6367]

in my area the guys will run 2ft of bx cable out of the panel to a junction box with a gfi outlet right near the panel. and then they run their wires to everything else from the gfi outlet down so everything down stream is gfi'd. so they keep regular breakers and then once out of the panel go gfi. romex after the gfi outlet. they are only allowed 11 outlets down stream cause you waste an outlet near the panel for gfi protection. so when the gfi flips, the breaker flips or gfi or both and then u go to the panel and u can see which gfi outlets flipped cause of the light.

[@johnnyhd8835]

Keep up the great work! If I may make a suggestion?, take out the stud on the left side of the panel to free up the knockouts there and put a horizontal support (wood or metal) across the top and bottom from right side of panel to the wall on left side.

[@SnowAndrews]

ALWAYS leave lots of extra (FAR more than you think you need) provision in your breaker boxes !!

[@robertwynkoop68]

Can you not just foam within 12'' of the dryer box to secure the wire?

[@seansysig]

Wouldn't having a GFCI Main breaker protect all downstream circuits?

[@50shadesofgreen]

🛠️🏗️🏡 good day to you guys !! thanks for the update and adventures on & off the homestead whilst building your dream house 🏡🏗️🛠️

[@crazycrittersranchallcritt5348]

I love how you show your steps right or wrong and show when you are wrong. You stress you are beginners and let us go along with you. Helping us plan our own future home building steps! Thank you! Haters buzz off!

[@gordon9042]

The 2017 code cycle requires arc fault protection on bedrooms, dining rooms, living rooms and any other habitable areas..this can be done at the breaker or at the first box in that cable run. Idaho is shown as a state that has adopted the 2017 code. Checck with your inspector to get his opinion.

[@johnfithian-franks8276]

Hi, I am surprised that there isn't a single GFI that can be installed before the main breaker panel that can protect all the breakers in the panel. I hope you can understand what I am trying to say and good luck with your upcoming inspection.

[@edwardfry2594]

You may have to redo the 40A box- some jurisdictions do not allow two wires under one screw--easy fix: use green grounding wire and wirenut to pigtail to that screw.

[@jamesmoon1841]

I always told customers code compliance is a mater of their safety. Somewhat surprised they did not require arch fault breakers.

[@McAVITYourWay.]

I`m repeating myself again, but I have to say I really admire your attitude to everything, you hit a problem head on, then get stuck it to getting it put right! :) I wish I were near enough to lend you a hand sometimes, but walking from the central UK is a bit to far lol

[@MrJy93]

With building codes or any codes for that matter. It's about making your dwelling safe for your family, yes. But, it's also about first responders who, heaven forbid, might have to come put out a fire or something in that rare circumstance.

[@chriscampbell1376]

I saw you added the extra box ground for the range receptical under the same screw as the other ground on the receptical itself. Where I am from that is also a fail. Only one wire can be under that screw. Hope it’s not an issue for you.

[@HaroldMalaby]

You guys are amazing and may I say taking the "high road" of compliance. Understand in the end it may be an over kill but like you said your "family will be safer" for it. May I suggest that this effort and cost has also safe guarded the dwelling thus you should be given a credit for such construction and your insurance company, with less risk, should give you a discounted rate. Proud of you guys for again "taking the high road" in attitude when as humans it would be so easy complaining/bitching through the process. Kudos to you both and by the way that 50 Amp plug looks so much better. Great Job!

[@danielgeng2306]

We call them raised (mulberry) covers and the box you put in is a 1900 box or 4” square box or a 4-11/16 box commonly ref to as a 5” box onthe range outlet.

[@danpikulski6573]

on the GFCI 2 pole breaker the white neutral wire is primarily used to operate the test function on the breaker. When the test button is pushed there is a shunt from one of the load legs to the pigtail which trips the fault protection portion of the breaker. The two wire 240 circuit uses a different method in the event of a true fault. the breaker looks at both legs and compares current and looks for a differential which will then trip the fault protection.