We FINALLY have HEAT & AC! ~ HVAC & Steel Siding Install ~ Part 9 ~ Rebuilding of "The Salvage Cave"

[@emyrjones2717]

I would not delay welding on the braces - better safe than sorry, as there is quite a high cantilever stress on the bottom welds.

[@davidwilles8577]

I agree, there will be a lot of stress on those bracket welds from the weight and vibration of the unit, but maybe by now you have already done it as I guess this video was done late last year before winter as now it's spring. Hope it kept you nice and warm over winter.

[@arjanvogel6444]

Or just bold it.

[@patrickswagger]

I agree because he doesn't want to be "THAT-GUY".

[@patrickswagger]

@@arjanvogel6444 "LMAO"

[@danandyong6653]

2 supports angled up is almost necessary, great idea

[@stephenscott5817]

As a guy who has retired from the siding business, I would recommend you use some type of commercial caulk on all of the top and side J channel. Water will get in on the top and sides (you can take that to the bank) and rot the wood and you wont even know. Commercial caulks are a lot better than the big box store has, also they have to be re- caulked every 5-10 years when applied to un-sealed block. Do not caulk the bottom if water does get in it has some where to go. Just a thought

[@cjm6271]

This is what I came to post👍🏼

[@SalvageWorkshop]

I COMPLETELY agree Stephen, and I did just that! I caulked the sides and top of all the windows and the sides of the siding... Only place I didn't caulk was along the top of the siding under the eve. I used the same caulk as I used around the windows, which happen to be Geocel 2320 which I had extra from a previous job! Like you said, it's WAY better than anything readily available for homeowners! I really do appreciate the advise, and that you watch the channel! Lots more to come!

[@1982jeepcj8]

Coleman's surplus in Millersburg, PA had a bunch of fork trucks and military surplus forktruck wrecks in their yard last time I was through, it my be worth an inquiry

[@jasonwarner6323]

@@SalvageWorkshop I came to post about the same thing. Only thing I would say is I have been doing construction for 30 years. I am not a fan of Geocell. Imo Quad is a much better product.

[@SalvageWorkshop]

@@jasonwarner6323 It may be, but Geocel is what I had on hand!

[@dale5303]

Here we go!!

[@chuckmcatee9000]

I LOVE the Tonka mighty loader/mighty dump truck! I moved a crapton of dirt with those as a kid in the backyard! All steel for the win, baby!

[@SciPunk215]

Tack a couple of struts or gussets on the side of that AC bracket. Doesn't have to be the entire diagonal, go half way up and half way out. It won't take any space underneath, and will provide infinitely more strength.

[@retireddec04]

It would be easy to drill a 5/16 hole in 4 places, run a 1/4 inch steel rod with a turnbuckle on each side.

[@billroberts3864]

Yes, I agree with you about putting a 45 degree angle iron to brace the unit because it would add extra security. The window and siding sure look great. Blessings to you guys.

[@Joe.M]

Definitely put the side brackets / supports on the outside unit.

[@theaviator8046]

I agree. The vibrations of the outside unit will break this construction sooner or later.

[@Farm_fab]

I would recommend that you put a brace on the corners as you suggested, maybe a diagonal, because that's a lot of weight on that small corner of angle. 3/8" rod should be most adequate. It looks good otherwise, and it should perform well for you. I wish you success on your endeavors.

[@jh8656]

Paint on the cement blocks (interior and exterior) would help seal and help to hold heat and AC in / out..

[@WisconsinWanderer]

The added heat and cooling is a sweet addition to the shop. If I had a shop like that you’d never get me out of it. Great video 😊

[@nineoclockhero]

I would definitely brace the unit. Once it is running there will be a lot of vibration going through the mount and those relatively small welds that are holding it.

[@LunkerFishing]

I would put the two braces in on each side. Drill and bolt those to the frame so they could be removed in the future if you needed to replace the unit or some other reason.

[@andywalliams]

It's going well, you never stop working and have achieved loads. Well done, if only we all had your motivation 👍

[@cevgunnerF]

Measure the chain pitch, the roller diameter, try contacting M&W forklift, Pearl St, Waukesha, Wisconsin. Looks like something they have had pass through. They do sales, rentals, and repairs.

[@SalvageWorkshop]

Will do thanks!

[@everestyeti]

The rear of the workshop looks really good, bet you were sweating when you took the damaged boarding off, fortunately those timbers were still good. I'm with you, use what you got 1st. With your stand for your external evaporation unit you could always fit some chains for extra support, would save welding. Your doing the right thing looking out cold spots, in order for AC to work affectively rooms need to be air tight, so you might need to check internal doors as well. The workshop is really coming along, bet you'd thought at times you never thought you would get this far. 🤗👍

[@nobuckle40]

That's really a different place than when you first began. Those split units are going to make it a great space to work in.

[@SalvageWorkshop]

Yeah it's really come a long way! You should see the inside!!! It's COMPLETELY DIFFERENT! You won't believe how good it looks now! That will be coming soon!

[@joeanonemouse]

What an improvement visually. Great channel and videos. Thank you.

[@terryrogers1025]

Well young man, I said it once before and I am going to say it again, anybody that takes the time for something as simple as being sure the printing on the Ty vec barrier to make sure that the printing is right side up on install is a person that will take the time to do a job to the best of their ability and make it finished looking as best he can will never have to worry about work. Thanks for the ride along sir.

[@brucechapman1946]

The forklift mast parts you need are for a Clark 3-4 ton mast I have one but sending it from Australia would be a little expensive. Good work with that AC unit, it will make the cave more workable.

[@bombardier3qtrlbpsi]

Going to put your brace up there. Using a turnbuckle on the brace might be one idea. Nice job 👍

[@dunk5647]

Some jack chain and turn buckles

[@markpeterson5479]

@@dunk5647 Yup. Just drill one hole at each corner, bolt the chain in, and tighten the turnbuckles. You could also use king chain or Dayton chain. If you use turnbuckles, after tightening,run a stiff wire through all the loops of each turnbuckle so that they cannot vibrate loose.

[@chrisoakey9841]

because of vibration, i would put either triangle braces on either side of your outside bracket, or at lest cables. so the whole weight isnt wobbling just on that right angle. and a few rubber grommets. as far as the forklifft any chain will do if you also get a sprocket that fits the bearing. you could even use a steel cable as all it does is tie the fork carrier to the hydraulic piston motion. the concrete block can be filled with sand or expanding foam from the top to insulate it. but you might find it retains the heat from the day.

[@robertschmidt6383]

You should check with building codes for that shut off box. You might be putting it too high to access by hand/ground level.

[@kevinknight470]

Shop is coming along, I like your style. For the support on the outside unit, a couple of cantilever adjusters, some rated chain, about 4 holes drilled, an easy fix. Thanx for sharing. 😃

[@fernandoscrenci4874]

Nice clean Job!!!👏🏻🥤🍿👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻

[@Dagrond]

That cinder block that you didn't cover needs a mural from the local school's artists! Good community project. Prime it with some water sealer and have at it.

[@SalvageWorkshop]

I have been thinking about about something like that or a local artist or something... there are a few exterior walls that could be pretty awesome if i find the right people!

[@allensnook7760]

Yeah a big salvage dog mural with dozers n diggers moving earth into fantasy configurations!!snooky

[@Michael_CS615]

Braces are HIGHLY RECOMMENDED as well as damper or anti-vibration mounts. Even the best compressor units have vibration which could eventually crack the mounts and transmit annoying vibration noise through the wall.

[@raymondcoggins297]

Great job looks great the imperfection on the metal gives it character for the age of building

[@douglasbranham6099]

Your split unit is a 3 ton. One ton is 12,000 BTU. You need angle braces on your evaporator brackets. The weight of the unit plus the bending moment (force at a distance) puts large stresses on your welds.

[@380.motorsports]

You definitely need those 45 degree side braces or, just wait until those corner welds break or the angle iron bends to fix it so we can watch video content of you fixing it.

[@zerocontent3171]

Just so you know, in most jurisdictions the shutoff must be located so that it can be reached from the ground.

[@hammer1212]

It's in the NEC...It makes no sense having it up that high.

[@gtnaylor5870]

Looks good to me! A few cans of rust-o-leum would take care of the spots the paint came off. Good to see you again!

[@tetedur377]

I would check with C&C Equipment, or, if worst comes to worse, Matt at Diesel Creek.

[@donfoster1832]

Very useful and enjoyable video! I learn a lot from vids like this, and the best tip I picked up on was using old rakes to hold chain, cords and other stringy things out of the way but accessible!

[@walterrobbins4470]

I finally get to see you paint something

[@andrewcooper8980]

A couple of sheets of rubber on bottom will help with vibration and noise

[@stevebradley8512]

Units should come with rubber feet for the outside condenser. I have installed 2 units in my shop and they are excellent 👌

[@ausrobroy1964]

As others have said, definitely needs some sort of diagonal bracing. Given how secure the top is, and that it's only cantilever force you want to overcome, you could weld a small angle iron or even use a wire with a turnbuckle to adjust tension over time.

[@eldonjenkins551]

If you have a Tractor Supply store or an implement store I would look for a roller chain and maybe the rollers for your fork lift They also carry several bearings.

[@michaeldurling793]

I would get those diagonal braces on the outside unit even if you just bolt them on. It may be holding for now but once you add any snow load they may not. Grandma used to say Michael use your head for something besides separating your ears. Place is coming along nicely.

[@thomascornelius510]

One heck of a nice job you have done on that place bro. Nothing better than having a nice work space to get things done. Awesome 👍

[@ihrescue]

Nice work. The whole project was excellent. Nice to have a conditioned air shop to work in. I bought a Mr Cool 18K BTU for my garage. Still need to do final hook up but they are nice. I am glad to see your hook ups because I still need to complete that on the MrCool.

[@SalvageWorkshop]

Its REALLY easy, and if you have questions they are really good at helping! I had to call about a few small things and they helped almost immediately!

[@foxwhiskey]

Great vid ! Like always on your channel. Hardly can't wait for the next part. Greetings and regards ! 👍

[@larrydavidson3402]

Back of the turned out very nice, such an improvement. Nice job on the heating and air cooling unit also.

[@pr3ttyxdogs73]

Use a couple pieces of chain for support gussets.

[@dennisdubey2126]

The shop is looking great.

[@TheSynthnut]

Coming together really well, the hard work will be appreciated I'm sure! As for the forklift, might be easier to swap the whole mast maybe? Get those brakes sorted if nothing else, it's gonna roll one day and cause mayhem or worse!

[@bobjoncas2814]

...LOOKIN' GOOD, NICE WORK, KEEP WARM AND COOL...LOL..

[@pjotrkuh]

Like some other people said... definitely brace the bracket... especially in a few years when the ventilator makes the unit shake more, the welds wil break.... otherwise nice shop!

[@tonyz8553]

Absolutely agree!!!...That bracket is a disaster waiting to happen and it will completely destroy your external unit. It doesn't matter how many bolts you put in the wall because that is not where it is going to fail. You have the total weight of the unit plus any vibrations while it is operating putting a 90 degree bending force all concentrated on that bend and weld you made. At least put a gusset in that corner and don't wait till it has already failed those welds.

[@kerryevans7413]

Great job on everything as usual. The shop is looking good it's getting better every video.

[@gregsecore9625]

excellent job buddy and totally understand you are doing the best you can with your budget

[@rhondasweeney7271]

You've done a awesome job closer to being everything complete. As you said on the end of the video the inside needs cleaned up

[@anthonysimonhough9691]

Great job it’s important to keep the maintenance up on a building , thanks for the movie.

[@phillipdickinson8557]

That was so good Matt really enjoyed it thank you for sharing and your time and can't wait for nex/ video.

[@teddythomas281]

You need to support that outside unit with 45’s

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

*@**46:20* 2 small triangles of 1/4" plate, welded inside of channel bottom at the apex, as gussets.

[@mridaho7871]

Two comments for ya. Definitely put in the 45 degree braces from the outer end to the top on both sides. If the unit has access panels on the ends bolt the braces in place. If you figure that the center of mass is in the center of the unit, and it is 6" from the wall, then you basically have the weight of the unit in foot-pounds of torque being held up by the two welds between the two angle iron frame pieces. Second; any flat chain will work on the lift as long as it can hold the weight and rolls over the roller. It doesn't have to be exactly the same.

[@stevenengebretson5662]

Looking good Matt. Can't wait for the next one.

[@IO-zz2xy]

Great vid man as usual, however one thing, cut that electric cord to as short as possible with just a little to spare. Coiled wire can cause a flux and also shortest cabling gives more efficiency to any electrical device. Regards from South Africa

[@ghostwriter1016]

Looks great, and cannot wait for the next one. I'm really looking forward to seeing some restoration work on the equipment getting done in the new shop. For the places in the back where you had some lite corrosion, I recommend using some Rustoleum (the spray cans... no need to go overboard) to keep it from corroding more.

[@marthabartel604]

Spray outside aluminum with a coat of vinegar solution the spray paint white again and you done.

[@MatthewBerginGarage]

That under eve lighting is nice. looks good.

[@tacticalrabbit308]

McMaster Carr has double roller chain and the idler for your fork lift you just need the proper size for the high strength chain that it uses

[@Piterworkshop]

A little rust is not bad, it's perfect

[@noelguerrero2770]

Having been in maintenance for 22 years, I think adding braces under the condenser unit will make it easier for future maintenance. It has been my experience how installers initially do their job quickly without thinking of future breakdowns and maintenance work. Just my 2 cents.

[@jeroen1836]

My question is if the rack and the welding only in the edges are strong enough in time for the weight of that outstanding unit?

[@ricksmith-iw2op]

Nice job. Love the channel. Always content that's interesting to me. Thanks.

[@brentking-gmailking2570]

Looking better everyday. Thanks for sharing.

[@tool717]

Way awesome tonka trucks bro .

[@robertrichard8889]

Great video. Especially the 2 old rakes used to hang chains and cables. Great way to recycle!!!

[@robertdumais9425]

if you want to paint it use a bin primer water base 123 and it does a nice job i had some that i painted an it came nice

[@notajp]

I’m guessing nobody ever told him the paper side on insulation needs to be installed towards the side to be heated/cooled. It is intended to be a vapor barrier. Vapor barrier always should be towards the conditioned space.

[@evisin77]

I used to build pole buildings and the base trim is either called base trim or z metal (depending on the style) we never called it inverted j but could be different names in different regions

[@billybike57]

Awesome finish up detail on the old window openings. 👍🏼

[@tylermitchell9939]

I have never thought about using a rock rake for a chain holder. I love the idea

[@josephcormier5974]

This is going to make it so much better to work on stuff it's a great improvement thank you for sharing this six stars brother

[@PAINFOOL13]

Nice yellow britches 😂 Thanks Matt.👍🏻Nice Work.

[@lucyxchan6808]

For the wheelloader forklift, for the chain: look for an forklift shop. They have tons of chains that they can join together to fit your machine. As for the bearings i haven't seen them so i can't help you. For the Roller, there should be an parts number, since this is an kit widely used in US... usually you could find it in 4 places: front, outer rim back, the back or if they were stupid they put it on the turning side(where the chain runs on) of the roller...if it's even partially there you can use acid to make it more legible...the seats are always crap and some found junk boltet in shout be always better than that sorry piece of an excuse...

[@andreacrashe9894]

*Wow, your workshop is looking and better. Such a huge improvement. Was that your son helping you out in this video? He is a hardworker and listened to what you wanted done.*

[@douglasthompson2740]

In my installation I put three compressors and my shop compressor as well in a ten by ten out building which keeps all the noise out of the shop (you mentioned filming) plus protecting all of them from the environment.

[@TheDaf95xf]

Great job buddy 👍🏻🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿

[@richardmetz2061]

I am amazed the wind cooperated and didn't blow your stuff into the next county.

[@skipstein744]

Looking Good! Onward!

[@brucegenest7012]

Put a grill, umbrella and table outside on the patio and don't forget the beer fridge just inside the door!

[@williamhook4412]

Use wire rope and turnbuckle on the sides of the brackets

[@SmittysShop]

I'd be curious to know how the heat served you this year. Although, it's been super mild for the North east. I primarily heat with waste oil but would like a viable "back up." Plus, who can argue A/C in the shop!!! My shop is about 1400 SqFt.

[@oldtruckswork8989]

Very nice. Some thoughts that you may want to consider. • A quality condensate pump from Little Giant will solve your condensate issue. Dumping into the sink is just fine as well. We do that all the time. • This type of unit only has a little filter screen and is intended to be installed in a clean environment (such as a house)... NOT a shop where there is a lot of fabrication - and a ton of dirt and debris in the air. Some additional filter media will help keep the coil cleaner, but you need to be absolutely religious about cleaning/changing the media. The fan is just a tiny fractional HP unit and so doesn't have a lot of excess static pressure available & the Mr. Cool stuff is definitely on the light duty residential side of the market. Any reduction in the amount of airflow will result in a reduction in performance. The indoor coil will ice once the airflow gets low enough. It will be necessary to clean your coils regularly as a result. Use a non-acid based cleaner intended for use as a coil cleaner. • Icing of the outdoor coil is normal in heating mode in the winter. It should go into a defrost mode once it builds enough ice - assuming the Mr. Cool stuff is equipped with a frost sensor. Please note that 'defrost mode' is just cooling mode and so it will be cooling the space when defrosting. • You are located next to a creek, there will be a lot of cottonwoods in the area. That fluff LOVES to get sucked against the condenser coil intake. You have to physically remove it. With the associated fouling, you will need to clean the condenser coil annually as well. • The heat pumps become less effective in the winter. At some point, the heat pump will become ineffective. Mr Cool submittals state that it has 100% heating at -5F and as low as -22F. In my experience (20+ years in the industry), these ratings are.... optimistic - and that's the case for every brand. You may want to consider some form of backup/supplemental heat source for extreme winter operation. Wind can be a factor in the winter rating and low ambient kits from more commercial equipment have wind shields. If you are experiencing low ambient heating problems and the units have proper charge, you may consider looking at fabricating a wind shield that you could install for winter and remove for summer. • Some Polyiso foam (probably 2” at R7 per inch) on the outside will solve your insulation issues and help seal the building. Insulating on the exterior allows you to take advantage of the thermal mass of the building to keep the temperature more stable. It would be nice if your slab and foundation was insulated as well, but you work with what you have. • A ceiling fan will help destratify the space and WILL reduce your heating and cooling costs. A nice commercial unit from Big Ass Fans would be ideal, but any old cheap ceiling fan would work. The temperature at the ceiling can be as much as 20F higher than the floor and that's heat that isn't doing you any good. You want to push that heat down to the person level. In the summer, the extra airflow also just feels nice, but the big benefit is winter operation. Keep up the good work!

[@douglasthompson2740]

By the way, I very highly recommend building a good shelter around your outside compressor(s) which will prolong the life of the unit by keeping debris out and snow away so that it can process the air. Lots of computer parts in that unit and they also rust easily so any protection is better than none and more is better as long as you don't restrict the airflow. Louvered side walls (like in a wood shed) all the way around with a good roof are ideal. Provide for a drain that is high enough at its terminal that you won't freeze back up to the compressor. For myself I fabricated aluminum drain pans and stacked my compressors with a 1/2 degree slope to the drain at the end opposite the compressors control boards. This keeps the water away from the computers even if it overflows and when it freezes it doesn't build an ice mountain at the fragile end. The drains they provide are generally plastic and not really water tight so this approach catches it all and dumps it out of the building (Here in Alaska with coastal high humidity ice build during the heating with temps below 35 degrees) so I also use heat tape to keep the drains open as well as insulation. Ice in your heating/cooling coils can quickly damage them with its expansion and contraction and while they mostly come with a heating cycle it isn't always enough to keep the coils clear.

[@glennbartlett416]

Great work! Always satisfying to watch after a long day.

[@douglasthompson2740]

One other hint, put a piece of filter medium over the top of the indoor unit to provide a primary filter especially in a dirty environment. Saves on the wear and tear of those fragile inner screens that filter the air. I use small weights to keep the medium in place. In either cooling or heating the air flow is from the top in and out the bottom so the filter works both summer and winter. My preference was the 3M (looks like a loose scrub pad but it is made for filtration. Comes in a small roll and you cut it to size. Amazon has it. This is washable so it is reusable many many times. Remember any additional insulation you can do to your lineset is a very good thing. Both in heating and cooling mode there is substantial loss in the included insulation as it is not thick enough for a good R value. I have used the large pool "noodles' which will encompass the circumference of the set spliced together and then wrapped the whole thing with bubble aluminum foil insulation. Remember to consider the snow loads coming off your steel roof. If you don't build protection around your compressor they can have a double whammy. They hit with a lot of force and they block air off from the unit causing the compressor to overheat and fail as well as not delivering any heat to your inside.

[@paulstanding7267]

Looking good coming along great. One question is the bulldozer old red if it is would you show it. 😀👍👍👍

[@brianelliot2719]

Looks great Matt. My only suggestion is to clean the filters in the head regularly … I have a reasonably clean environment for mine but the filter will fill up in a few months and that degrades performance and is probably hard on the machine. There are codes on the machine if a fault happens … I get a fault sometimes after a power surge and I press reset but the code lights are hidden behind covers.🎉

[@jusb1066]

I'm more concerned with those corner weld cracking I think you still need some diagonals but they can go upwards

[@allenrothe1406]

In filling in the bathroom window: the vapor barrier is always always applied to the heated side of the building. You have foam, faced insulation and plastic sheeting. I sure hope you don't have a moisture problem in the furture.

[@WayneT51]

G'day mate That's coming along really good. Well done. Greetings from down under 🇦🇺 Regards Wayne

[@vborg001]

The shop looks real nice!!👍👍

[@nicholascarpenter6682]

For the rollers I would pull it apart and get the roller out and look for part numbers. A unit of that age I would bet you could cross it to a current bearing. Can always match one up from measurements of what the old ones are.

[@nodaklojack]

Thx for sharing and get er done.

[@robertmanley7556]

Great video !! I am very pleased with all the progress you have made with the new building you have gotten a lot done and the ac and heat in your shop will spoil you I know from experience😂!! Very nice work as alway's it's all coming together very nicely

[@alanhiggins2928]

You did such a good job flashing and sealing the window but the water is going to run down behind the j channel above the window! Might need to run a bead of caulk along the top of that channel where it meets the wall!

[@garywilliamson7493]

Looks Great Matt