WE HAVE A BIG PROBLEM!!!! BLOCK IS DAMAGED

WE HAVE A BIG PROBLEM!!!! BLOCK IS DAMAGED
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[@justinp2993]

Something else to come up with a plan for is torquing them if you use 12mm coarse thread. You can't use 40ftlbs +90 +90 +45 as with a coarser thread that will effectively put much more stretch/stress into the bolt. I don't even know how accurate measuring the torque of the existing 11mm bolts and then tightening to that same ftlbs would be. Also it would be easier to grind the outside of the wrong sized washer than drill the inside of the wrong size washer. Just be sure to debur them unlike the piston rings after they were ground 😟. Lastly drill and tap the darn things straight or none of this matters, a little off will load a bolt all kinds of weird and cause fatigue/failure. So a machine shop at best or something very straight and stable, remember a mag mount drill won't hold onto the block without a steel plate or something bolted to it. Oh and remember this is fun, 😁

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Not set in stone yet but if i do use larger bolts will likely torque them to the same spec as standard ARP bolts. maybe

[@DamianPLays5132]

@@ZeroTo60Tube You should check this video out for the stripped block issue. I feel like it might help kzbin.info/www/bejne/aXXMZqWwd7Rgj8U&ab_channel=N54RacingChannel

[@wakdog]

Surprised you don't have an S54 with how many times you accidentally said 'rod bolts' instead of 'head bolts'

[@fabini14]

M57 bolts are very strong, they come already with washers and are m12 x 1.5, and like that you can use the same torque that is used on m57 engines since they have also aluminium blocks.

[@Nathan-gj8ch]

figuring put a torque spec for a random bolt from some other engine would be hard. I think i read in the Bently bmw manual the N54 block is not just aluminum it's an aluminum magnesium alloy im sure that might effect the spec.

[@Vikturus22]

welcome back! hope the floods did not affect you guys too much!

[@marcwonnacott3286]

Lots going on there, really hope you get it sorted.

[@seanissomething]

Way to make lemonade, brother 🍋 hope it works!

[@Stephenc4877]

Do you have a friendly machinist near you could make you a drill guild and a depth stop? I’ve done similar, it’s wasn’t a head stud, it was a water pump housing. The machine shop or anyone with a small lathe will be able to bore out the centres of the washer, m12 washer are normally a lot wider and may not sit into the recess in the head correctly.

[@Pho6oZ]

literally 0 experience with this, but its always good content to see the IRL problems you could run into, best of luck with the solution!

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Appreciate it!

[@littleroller]

Let’s save up to help him get some decent hair gel!

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Awww man i think 2 pac clear might be the go!

[@An0nDEViant]

Cutting a long one to OE length and cleaning up the threads would be my first option. There's no going back from drilling and tapping deeper in the block. Also just bore out the washer to the new bolt size.

[@BEAMERNOOB]

i would use a drill press to drill out the holes on your final block or have a machine shop do it. my biggest concern would be getting the holes absolutely straight

[@glennarnold3970]

Andrew to center the drill bit in the head use a piece on thin steel tube over the drill bit neat fit in head and neat fit on drill it only has to be long enough to start the drilling. The head washers need to be put in a lathe and machined out to size using a ceramic bit as the washers are hardened the tap you should be able to use a 300mm long quarter drive extension and an sae quarter drive socket to fit the end of the tap that will get you going remember to put a bit of grease on the tap for ease of thread cutting it also grabs the shavings cheers glenn

[@morten877]

If you havent fins washer. Check out washer from Ford cosworth YB 4syl turbo. Early 2wd engines have smal washes and m12

[@robingroeneveld4169]

Personally I would have done the closed deck conversion or at least some pinning to secure the cilinders, but that would make the build a bit more expensive I guess. It is possible the aluminium lost a bit of strength due to overheating and that's the reason you stripped the thread. The longer M12 bolts are a good idea, though I would drill the first 10 mill of thread to 12 millimeter: this does result in less thread, but you gain more length for elastic stretch of the bolt. Just my 2 cents.... Good luck!

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

One day we will go all out. For now this is the budget build.

[@nicolashoyt5341]

It was really common to pull the threads out of the block on the M54 engines, I hadn't heard of it happening on these but who knows.

[@Cevium]

Thanks for the update! Next up: "Making my own race fuel from scratch for my 4000cc N54"

[@Zalle335]

Didnt tap my block but tapped my head for the exhaust manifold studs, stripped 2-3 of them and just tapped it with the same size as OE stud, worked just fine for me. If that does not work I’d try a different thread pitch perhaps

[@Nico_335i_DCT]

That's a bummer guys. Good luck. Dutch regards Nico.

[@gj9300]

Mate go for it , tap the thread and whack them in, can’t see the tap being out , just drill ready for tap in two steps👍

[@gj9300]

If you put an insert in you will be drilling out and tapping anyway if you think about it

[@B0JACK]

Woah, it’s non stop. Good luck!

[@andrewwilliams5337]

Bugger. That’s a solid kick in the pants.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

right in the family jewels this one

[@tighematthew]

Well N54s never stop giving content

[@seanpaul3050]

I’m thinking you could take the washers to a machine shop. They could probably enlarge the centre holes on a lathe.

[@Nathan-gj8ch]

BMW in German voice "all the hardware must be aluminum to prevent corrosion in this aluminum engine! except the head bolts and the main bolts and the rod bolts" I have drilled out head bolt washers before on a honda H22. I did a H22 head mated to a F22 block and had to find a stud solution as no one had done it yet. coming up with a torquing spec was the hardest part I hate TTY to many thing to go wrong, I replace with ARP any time I can. I have ARP con rod bolts in stock rods now in my N54.

[@uisperfectemail9720]

Ohh wow, that must have felt terrible when it snapped! I was hoping to watch the head go back on since I’ll be pulling mine soon, and to see how “smoothly” it could go, but now I’ll just be terrified till the last bolt is torqued. Way ta make this entertaining! 🤘🏼🤙🏼

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

It never snapped it just stopped feeling that tight. The snapon actually gives a nm read out when you are doing degrees, the good ones seemed to show between 120 and 130nm, the 2 that dont feel right only went to 70nm. So its still fairly tight, but not as tight as it should be.

[@uisperfectemail9720]

@@ZeroTo60Tube last ditch effort for hope, any chance the wrench failed?

[@uisperfectemail9720]

I have no idea how torque wrenches actually work by the way

[@simonjohns3565]

@@uisperfectemail9720 I'm not sure if Andrew did wrench anything up after those....

[@uisperfectemail9720]

@@simonjohns3565 by now he has already got the new tap and is going to town on the block.

[@br4d101]

Damn, either get a mag drill and drill them perfectly straight or go to ur local machine shop and get them to drill and tap the holes, I know this is a budget build but you have an issue that shouldn’t be an issue so spending a bit of money getting it right would be fine! They have to be precise otherwise the head will lift n you’d of wasted hours and money doing it! Do it right n do it once! Them N54 engines aren’t cheap anymore!

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

my concern is i assume the machine shop will want to sit the block flat on a table to drill it. Meaning the crank has to come out.

[@br4d101]

@@ZeroTo60Tube they should be able to space it off with blocks, will have to be a pretty tall machine though lol they should be able to sort it though! You’ll never drill them washers as they are hardened and you should have a decent hardware store to get hardened washers in oz!

[@kari-mattiloukiainen6825]

The magnetic drill does not attach to aluminum. In any case, it is better than a hand drill because of its weight and structure.

[@br4d101]

@@kari-mattiloukiainen6825 yeah I know that lol just for getting it square to the head when drilling!

[@autoSRI]

If the thread is 12x1.75 you should be using a 10.25mm drill bit but seeing as your existing m11 thread has a major diameter of 11mm I wouldn’t trust them with only 1mm of thread engagement unless you use those longer bolts and drill them deeper Next is you can’t use the factory torque spec you would have to use the one from the engine the m12 bolts came from as long as it also has an aluminium block but it’s a bit guess work If you decide to drill them out find a machine shop and get them to drill a piece of steel with the 12mm hole about 75x75x50 to act as a guide to make sure you stay straight

[@nissejarnet]

If possible, leave the first few mm un-threaded in the block to help with deck distortion while torqued. Maybe theres not enogh room for that with the bigger bolts though :)

[@geordiegibson1210]

Andrew, with all due respect to those recommending Timeserts, I will strongly warn against them, do Helicoils instead. Search KZbin for comparison videos where people actually test the pullout strength, and you'll find the Helicoil is usually near double the pullout strength of a Timesert, regardless of the sizes. You'll be shocked if you see it, and then realise the company making Timeserts don't actually advertise any rated pullout strength. Other than that, a local machine shop would be best to drill, tap and Helicoil all the threads to whatever size you want. I personally wouldn't want to go much deeper than original without further info on the actual internals of the block. The block can be saved, it's just a question of how much to spend to make it last. And it would also be a good idea to pull the pistons and rods before getting anything machined, drilled or tapped - you don't want any swarf getting stuck anywhere near the bores, rings or ringlands.

[@HassanEido1]

So a 12mm stud can hold way way more boost. I saw a cracked n54 block with 12mm studs. It held 50 psi of boost and and close to 1200 hp . Closed deck and all, engine block limits found. Moral was the head didn't lift. I don't think you'll need to torque it to the same spec as stock stock bolts. Getting a bit iffy if I'm honest.. I'm doing a forged engine too, this has me scared to torque my own bolts. Dammit . It never ends..

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Speaking to a mate who used to service and rebuild, machinery diesel engines, he said its fairly common on an alloy block thats gotten hot, for the threads to pull through. We over torqued the head bolts on the motor in my e92 and they have been fine. These gave way early in the torquing sequence and its only the 2 near the damaged piston, so you should be safe if you block is fine.

[@billreynolds3328]

I have the mmp head bolts and they use spacers on the m12 bolts and they work just fine,might be better than drilling the hole deeper

[@Dax60roll]

I used ARP all 14 are 11mm, the 4 outer have been converted using timeserts, go check out CSS (Cylinder Support Systems) this is the only way for a high boost N54. Your week point will be the 4 x 9mm bolts (Why not drill and tap those to 11mm?) and if you can use timeserts. I think you should have them drilled at an engineering shop, maybe on a milling machine to get it perfect.

[@___.___111]

I feel your stress just watching your videos mate 🤣

[@Jern54]

Annoying head bolt issues 😜 Head gasket can be reused as long as it hasn't been heat cycled.

[@StratoJohn]

Mate that sounds like such a bummer, if anyone can find a solution it's you and your persistence though

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

hahaha its funny seeing your comments as you catch up.

[@shafieksalie3119]

All of best 👌 👍

[@cornfedboost]

I've never drilled or tapped a block for bigger headstuds before 🤫

[@mrpoopybutthole6314]

I doubt it’s much help for your short timeframe but there is a company in the UK that makes M12 head studs for the M54. Most people have the washers put on a lathe or drill it out with a bundy in one hand and the other. It’s the best upgrade for making them hold boost. I’ve heard of a few blokes legit hand drilling and tapping it then running 600hp numbers. See how you go but I think you’ll be right.

[@N54God666]

Get the block roll cut for 1/2 inch arp bolts

[@BiglumpADV]

First... Everything is a race lol

[@chrisdickman7080]

If you ain't first.... your last hahaha

[@JohnLee-vj9lh]

Good luck with the motor rebuild mate another option is put a Barra motor in it and probably cheaper , great video mate

[@tcjay119]

Duuuuuude, so i stripped a bolt on my m52 ages ago. So in the uk we get aluminium m52's, and I torqued my shiny new arp bolts up to the us iron block torque by mistake🤦🏽‍♂️. I did time sert mine. BUT, i also considered drilling out the holes and tap in a new thread for a bigger bolt, which is a better option imo, just difficult to do correctly on the driveway 😂. Edit - make sure u drill that shit dead straight or you'll have to drill the holes in the head to allow for a wonky head stud. Don't ask why i know that 😒 Or take it to a machine shop and get them to drill and tap for an m12 set. Probably ur best option

[@mcycleserv]

I use to use Cross Threads in Newcastle for insert speedy sleeves etc

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Thanks for the comment had no idea they existed.

[@mcycleserv]

@@ZeroTo60Tube look ay youtube 50s kid did a rebuild with the same problem as you with stripped head bolts

[@peterm3861]

Just discovered your channel, really cool dude! I don't even have a N54 (and not sure anymore if I want one I think 🤣) but those vids are gold. Have always been a fan of budget DIY stuff. Thanks mate, keep it up! Greets from Germany

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Welcome aboard!

[@michaelshannon4138]

Mag base drill. The washers you’ll prob need to turn down on lathe

[@twinscrolled]

Just take it to a machine shop and have them properly drill and tap the block and drill the washers or make new ones.

[@pugs1377]

Ouch. If it wasn't for bad luck, you would have none. That's a hell of a cross road to be at. I think the longer bolt is the way to go. Just need to figure out the washer issue. Any local machine shops you can take em to?

[@EvlEgle]

You know... if you just had not torqued those bolts to degree, they'd be fine to reuse.

[@kriszg5836]

It should be ok to drill the holes by hand as you already have a hole nearly the size of the new hole. The drill wants to center naturally. To drill off center you need to force the drill to the side. You just need to let the drill go wherever it wants to go which is the path of least resistance and that's the center. Once you get down to the bottom of the factory hole you cannot drill in an angle because the original hole will guide the drill. If you are still concerned about starting the drill you can put the head on and start drilling through that. That way it guides the drill until you get some depth and go from there without the head on. Also the great thing is that the pitch of the M11 and M12 threads are the same and that will help you drive the tap in. Just do not break the tap inside the hole! It's hard to do with aluminum (or aluminium, whichever floats your boat) but not impossible. Good luck! :-) EDIT: You also have that busted block you can practice on to get the technique down.

[@drewdavis239]

Don't drill with a guide. I just fucked up my exhaust stud holes doing what's described above

[@kriszg5836]

@@drewdavis239 Did you have a broken stud? If you did then what I described above is the wrong approach. As I said the drill will go towards the least resistance which would be the softer aluminum head vs hard steel stud and you will definitely damage the head. To get the broken stud out you need to drill a small hole in the center of the stud and slowly step it up until you can get one of those tools in the hole that you use to get phillips head screws out with stripped heads. Or if you know what you're doing and managed to drill the hole perfectly centered then you can keep stepping up the drill sizes until you completely drill out the center of the stud and you only have the threads. Then you can pick the rest out and clean the threads with a tap.

[@lookalikehuuh]

I did a quick search on google in the states and seems like time-serts are pretty readily available everywhere. I've never done international shipping but let me know if you want to have me acquire it here and ship it at your cost. I don't know the exact specs of the time-sert that you need but seems like most are easily accessible.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Its about 2-3 weeks to get one to us. Which is too long.

[@matt_h537]

Curious what would of caused the thread to fail in the block. Wonder how often that has happened 🙈

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Aparantly it’s common on alloy that’s been overheated. Not N54s per say but a mate that used to rebuild machinery engines. That said these 2 are tight, just not as tight as they should be, so makes me wonder how often it happens and people don’t notice.

[@matt_h537]

@@ZeroTo60Tube you could feel the actual torque decreasing as you were turning Though yeah? Watching it my stomach dropped..

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

@@matt_h537 Force required to turn it was increasing, meaning it was getting harder to turn like a bolt tightening up, but then about half way on the second 90deg it stopped getting harder to turn.

[@matt_h537]

@@ZeroTo60Tube Possibly what your feeling is the stretch..Now every time you mash the floor board your mind will wander to those dang head-bolts lol

[@kaleb5772]

You should do a pinned crank hub on this engine mine separated and destroyed my engine

[@bimmerfab]

Same here man not worth cheaping out

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Not on this motor. Was your motor built? Original? Overrevved? Do you know what caused it to go?

[@bimmerfab]

@@ZeroTo60Tube mine was built made a rookie mistake of not changing the friction disks. 8k rev limiter

[@kaleb5772]

It was stock with full Bolt ons running watermeth and a manual

[@kaleb5772]

I think after I installed the single mass clutch it threw the engine of balance went to do a hard launch and it started jumping and threw timing codes and shut off

[@FriendlyIntentions]

You can just cut the bolts to size. I am running 170 mm vag bolts cut to 155 on my volvo. Stock volvo bolts are 10.9 and 40 nm 60 nm and 130deg. Just did the vag bolts they are 40nm 60 nm 90 degrees and 90 degrees again with no problem. No creeks no cracks no pops. Not so sure about the bolt thread though

[@FriendlyIntentions]

The vag bolts are 12.9

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Do you know what motor the vag bolts were from? (also i think youtube sees vag and a females private part and blocks these comments haha)

[@FriendlyIntentions]

@@ZeroTo60Tube They are M12 though, not M11 . oen 038103384C10X

[@FriendlyIntentions]

@@ZeroTo60Tube You can always take a look of the online catalog for companies like elring or victor reinz. Check by length and bolt size. Lots of companies have "TechDoc" which lets you filter the results by all the parameters. And find exactly the ones you need.

[@dickvre]

Good luck 👍

[@friguy4444]

Wow. You mad scientist you! You may just be starting a new revolution in head bolt up grading for these cars. LOL. But we'll have to wait and see. My only comment for you is "Just take all the time in the world you need. Unless there's some reason other than us YT people wanting to see the build and content just don't worry about trying to push the timeline for our sake!! (If that's the case). We'll be just fine." So do what you need and want and we'll cheer you all the way. The complainers can cry all they want! Just ignore them. All the best to you my friend!!

[@n54berk]

Contact Huhn Solutions for timesert kits! If you already did this and couldn’t get one, I have some left over! They are to accept an m11 1.5 bolt/stud

[@davizzleman]

Pretty cool. Ghassan did something similar with using 12mm Studs. Do the 12mm bolts also fit through the head in the corners where 9mm bolts are standard? I don´t understand why threading deeper by hand is dodgy? The way you drilled deeper is actually really not bad. I did it already the same way and bolts fitted perfect. If you make it the way you did, it is just fine. The most important thing is the quality of the thread tap.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

So the 9mm bolts are tricky if you want to keep using bolts. The holes in the head would need to be drilled out not the end of the world. However two of the 9mm wholes have dowels to locate the head. Those dowels wont let a 10mm bolt pass through them. So its not idea to run larger bolts. In a perfect world i would got 12mm arp all round. For now anything thats as good as standard will keep me happy.

[@davizzleman]

​@@ZeroTo60Tube Wouldn´t it be possible to use the 12mm bolts also in the corners if you would have some guiding pins for placing the head on the block and then just fit the bolts? I mean you don´t need the dowels necessarily if you could position the head properly (like with studs)

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

@@davizzleman Man, it's amazing how the simple solutions are often the ones i dont even think about. I will do this on the next built motor for sure. Thanks for simple solution to coners. On this one i have simple over torqued the hell out of the 9mm bolts. We'll see how they go.

[@travisgreen9604]

What if you pour molten metal down the holes?

[@minzahhh1]

Also I'd like to see alot of the guys in the comment section try and set up a Mag drill on an alloy block lol...what you could do it contact an engineering mob and have a steel torque plate made up with counter sunk Holes on a waterjet or plasma accurately enough to use a Mag drill for the job..... That's actually a great idea haha

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

I worked out my lube issue and still opted for the 12mm head bolt upgrade in the next vid. The head gasket hasn’t leaked yet 🤞

[@minzahhh1]

@@ZeroTo60Tube you should really save some hassle and get inserts.. You seem pretty fkn serious and there proven to work with high hp alloy head/block setups. Do everything that's in the budget now 100% check it 3 times over and you'll end up with a very rare reliable high hp n54

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

@@minzahhh1 100% correct, but in the time frame i had, i couldnt get a kit to do it. Mind you the kit was also $2000 aud. A guy a couple of hours away had the proper tool, but again couldnt do the job for a few weeks, and this was all leading up to getting kicked out of this place, so i was a on bit of a squeeze timewise.

[@minzahhh1]

@@ZeroTo60Tube yeah that's fair enough... I'm building a m54 turbo kit atm to suit rhd e46 cars and the hardest part has been the interstate shipping on all the good gear Australia sucks sometimes

[@mohammadbenattia9102]

Good luck

[@noneya96]

Curious if this is some what possible on the M54 B30

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

It would be. However I think Probabaly safer to go with a more tried and true method

[@bimmertec]

bro uses lock tiet after don't make drilling block because its not safe try finde thiker bolt

[@7jaymc]

I wouldn't use a hand drill for drilling the block, 100% get it set up on a mill or at the least an accurate mag drill. 1 or 2 sketchy things is OK but this whole build is turning out sketchy with a too many loose ends haha makes for great content though 👌

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

#yolo

[@johnny-pi1hi]

Dude send it .. there is like 10 other bolts holding it on it will hold fine I’ve done way worse reuse head gaskets other random bolts reuse old head bolts

[@rayraybhai6089]

Bro watch n54 racing channel john has a video on the 11mm studs and how to install

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

I have seen it and the kit he used is way more affordable than the proper timesert kits which are $1600 here. However i have made many mistake and now resolved them. Hopefully have 12mm bolts in it today

[@rayraybhai6089]

@@ZeroTo60Tube awesome man! Excited for the new video! Can you talk about the drilling process in the video? I am going to go with the stock head bolts for now but am really interested in other options as well!

[@piroozhr7968]

Damn! So did they strip easy even with that decent torque wrench ? Might be helpful to provide details for others attempting this job for first time

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

It’s only those 2 and they are both close to the piston that failed. Keep in mind this motor did have the failing water pump. So god knows how hot it got

[@piroozhr7968]

@@ZeroTo60Tube Good point. Maybe its a sign to not to go ahead if the blocks structure is already compromised. Maybe a block from a rod knocked engine instead...

[@BEYTEK]

Mannn this makes me wana b58 the rx7 haha

[@odie0815]

Bugger :( just out of the blue - maybe try to talk to Dan - maybe he has a tip that might work for you? I suspect he had some stuff happening to him in his profession a s a tuning shop??

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Did speak to him, he was all about repairing it properly..... such a nerd.

[@odie0815]

@@ZeroTo60Tube sometimes the nerds know what they are talking about to be honest - I'm on the same page as Dan using different sizes of threads and different pitch values will mess up all the torque specs and you will not get a propper result would be a shame to have such a huge uncertanty when doing such a nice job otherwise

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

hahah im just giving him shit after our phone call last night.

[@bimmerfab]

Ns300l inserts

[@trevorsonnenberg5268]

This sucks guys. Hey the engineer ruins everything response is a different threaded fastener will require a different torque value to apply the correct preload on the fastener to hold the head down... If it matters

[@uisperfectemail9720]

Posting at this time of day? This must be tragically graphic....let’s see

[@justjoshn5468]

at cylinder 4 as well?...

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

it was the bolts at cyl 4 and 5..... however..... i have worked something out

[@andrewvassallo3444]

You must be stressed (rod bolts?)

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Man too much going on right now that’s for sure

[@hoopla1414]

NO HELICOIL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@lightmanek]

Sorry, too late for my block mate :D All around helicoil FTW!

[@ben7020]

Only on a BMW...

[@ealoken]

😭😭😭😭

[@michaelshannon4138]

Do you want the number of the bloke my mates bloke who does his ls timeserts? Ls use 11mm too

[@darth_art2101]

Holly cow

[@minzahhh1]

Can't even bolt the bloody head down without it giving up haha like I said last video mate n54 is garbage I don't care if it makes a 1000hp stock it doesn't mean fk all if its on an engine stand every other day Again no hate on you personally bro it's that engine I don't like haha

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Haha you can aim it personally at me. This is a video of me learning about thread lubrication on head bolts. What I was feeling was thread binding and loosening off, not pulling the threads but I assumed the worst. I used atf on the head bolts. Should have used engine oil or a moly grease. I assumed atf would be as good as engine oil. It’s not.

[@minzahhh1]

@@ZeroTo60Tube I'm subscribed and here to watch bro do keep on keeping on

[@tonychambers6475]

Only just started the video so can’t comment but wanted to ask a question. If you don’t mind me asking and it isn’t an intrusion but how is your mum doing?

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

Hi Tony, appreciate the thought to be honest. She is ok, but not great the cancer medication she is on, although not full chemo really knocks her about. She cant put weight back on either, still around 38/39kgs which is a problem. But hey about a year ago we didn't think she would still be with us.

[@tonychambers6475]

@@ZeroTo60Tube pleased to hear that. Good luck going forward

[@scarface16134]

Go fund me for a ghassan motor!!!!!!

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

no no no, budget upgrade is where we are going

[@Mp-jw1qg]

dont drill the block !!!!!!!!! if you have instagram ill send you pictures of a n54 block sliced on a bandsaw to prove that its a bad idea lol time cert it. that will double the surface area without going deeper. thats whats being done to my n53 head/ wet sleeved n54 block right now.

[@ZeroTo60Tube]

I don’t really use insta. I mentioned on another of your comments. Email and I’ll sort out telegram.

[@peterm3861]

What is your Insta buddy? Have no N54 but am interested...