Weaving The Fabric | Medieval Tunic Project

In this video, I'm weaving the fabric for my medieval tunic project.
www.barrowsandwights.com
IG: barrowsandwights
ko-fi.com/barrowsandwights
Transcripts for videos are available on my website.
Notes:
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Tools:
- Ashford 24" Rigid Heddle Loom
- 15 dpi rigid heddle
- warping board with removable pegs
- wire hook to draw threads through the heddle
- boat shuttles
Warp:
- 8 skeins 100g fingering weight Blue-faced Leicester yarn hand-dyed by me
Weft:
- lace weight linen/cotton blend yarn from WEBs - yarn.com
The tunic fabric is woven in a plain weave pattern and finished with a hem stitch before removing it from the loom.
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Attributions:
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Title Card:
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Photo by Anton Atanasov
www.pexels.com/photo/landscap...
Logo designed and drawn by A.R. Gergler
Background Music:
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Music: Lively Tavern by Alexander Nakarada
Free download: filmmusic.io/song/10031-livel...
License (CC BY 4.0): filmmusic.io/standard-license
End Screen:
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Photo by Anton Atanasov
www.pexels.com/photo/landscap...

[@moonbasket]

This is literally the coolest thing I have ever seen. I was going to knit while I watched but I had to put down my knitting to watch. It was just entrancing. One of my life goals is to one day spin, weave, and then sew a garment and I only know how to sew. Watching you weave the fabric for a garment from yarn you dyed yourself and in one of my favorite colors, no less, was the most fascinating and amazing thing I have ever seen.

[@barrowswights801]

Thank you for watching! It is a really cool feeling to go through all the steps of fabric production to completing a garment; you should definitely keep going for that goal!

[@kitdubhran2968]

Honestly, spinning is a little difficult at first but so so satisfying. Start with a simple drop spindle (dowel with a hook and a whirl) and decent quality wool. Those are usually the easiest to start with. If you have adhd may I suggest hand painted wool roving. It comes in chunks so it’s really easy to see where you are and how far you have to go yet. 15-25usd is a good price for 4oz of processed and dyed wool. Merino and Falkland are super common. To be more detailed about it, Merino tends to have shorter crimpier fibers and Falkland tends to be longer and smoother. Either is good. You might prefer one over the other. It takes practice. You will drop your spindle (that’s not why they’re named that but it happens a lot) But once you get the hang of it a little, it is so soothing and so fun and you make yarn! And then maybe thread! And it’s so nice. If you crochet or knit you can then *make your own yarn* to craft with. One ply is fine. You can make your own yarn. I can’t emphasize how freaking amazing and fun that is.

[@Liv55555]

wow, this is incredible! no wonder fabric was so expensive for most of history

[@barrowswights801]

Thank you!

[@karenmusketnuss2737]

As a spinner and someone trying to learn weaving, thank you for the details of yarn size, heddle size etc….

[@barrowswights801]

No problem!

[@WillN2Go1]

Beautiful fabric. Nowwhen I see machine made woven fabric like this I'll think of your hands. I'll also think of the centuries of hands that have woven fabric this same way. Thank you for sharing this.

[@bloodiedXangel]

This was lovely to watch. I keep telling myself that I don't need another craft hobby. Especially as looms take up so much space. I love the colour and how your fabric turned out. I absolutely love the black waistcoat you wore at the start and a couple of points in the middle.

[@bloodiedXangel]

I clicked in to see if part two was up. I guess I'll just have to watch another video instead. Ah shucks, you got me :P I like the dog too. Pet content is always welcome

[@barrowswights801]

Yeah, this is a project that's taking a while, so no follow up yet. I'm hoping to get the next part out soon though!

[@JaneConnorEmbellisher]

I am so glad I found your video. I am glad to see a rigid heddle loom used for such a large project. It gives me courage to weave on.

[@barrowswights801]

It's surprising what you can get done with a rigid heddle loom! I was really inspired by the book Clothing From the Hands That Weave by Anita Luvera Mayer which has sort of pattern breakdowns on how to weave fabric for a bunch of traditional clothing styles. I never really though of weaving fabric for clothing on my looms until I had a look through this book.

[@dominiquemichaud7945]

Awesome project! I'm interested to see the next part. You've got so much perseverance!

[@barrowswights801]

Thanks! Hopefully this next part won't take as long as the weaving. 😂

[@HandmadeDarcy]

Bravo! Beautiful work! I also use the Ashford rigid heddle looms and really struggled with warping, for ages - not only because of the physical work but also controlling the inevitable slack when stringing a long warp up and down an entire hallway. Two things really helped me to enjoy warping: 1. I use my warping board (flat on its back) right in front of the loom, with both clamped to a table. I then proceed as for direct warping but wind the length on the warping board instead of walking it all the way up a hallway 😂 I then pick up the loom and pop it on the stand. 2. One day I realised that I wasn't thinking of warping as weaving, but as annoying setup, which I wanted to get through as fast as possible, so I could get to the "actual" weaving, but of course warping is as much a part of weaving as the "wefting". It was an epiphany that totally changed my mindset, and I now I take my time, without cursing my body for its weaknesses, and actually enjoy it.

[@barrowswights801]

I feel like warping is the thing that we most have to trick our brains into liking when we weave. 😂

[@avrilp317]

What a beautiful fabric you have created. I especially love the fact that it is not a solid colour. Looking forward to your next video. Thank you 😊

[@barrowswights801]

Thank you!

[@thecutleryrepublic6418]

The fabric really looks amazing! It's such a beautiful shade of green. Plus your hair looks very handsome

[@dawnbaker9274]

How fascinating! Didn't realize how labor intensive. I knew it was a lot, but...Jeez!

[@barrowswights801]

It makes me wonder just how many people in a city or a town were involved in the production of clothing in some capacity. There are a lot of steps that go into making fabric and I imagine most people wouldn't be doing all of it!

[@artsymaddieDIY]

The cloth looks phenomenal!!! Your process and effort are incredible. I hope you don’t ever burn out 💙 I am SO rooting you, you totally got this and it will be the most stunning tunic ever worn 👍🏻🌟I am feeling intimidated to weave a belt, but now you got me thinking a belt is nothing 😂

[@barrowswights801]

Everything is relative! I'm looking forward to weaving a belt because it'll be a quick project! 😂 Thanks for watching!

[@ecummins8650]

I look forward to the next installment! Fantastic project, I am rooting for you!

[@barrowswights801]

Thanks!

[@jwolfe1209]

The final fabric looks wonderfully squishy 😍

[@barrowswights801]

It is nice to have in my hands while I'm sewing with it.

[@jaedy1124]

Great video! I am information gathering mode and this video was very helpful! This is all new to me, but since building our off grid home and cultivating a permaculture garden, it has inevitably led to wondering if we could grow flax or obtain wool to spin our own yarn and ultimately begin making our own fabric and clothing! It seems to be such an enormous undertaking, but would be so incredibly satisfying to accomplish! Part of the journey to true self-sufficiency.

[@saberg1082]

If you are just starting I would recommend wool as it is relatively easy to process and spin (my favourite is Merino). You can always buy some and try it out relatively cheap with a dropspindle.

[@mistikomakes]

You just showed up in my recommended video list. I love your style and approach. I’ve been weaving on a rigid heddle loom since the 1980s and I hated warping for most of that time until I read somewhere to think of boring repetitive tasks as a moving meditation. That somehow changed my outlook, so instead of the internal narrative of “I hate this” over and over I relax and daydream I’m looking forward to seeing how your outfit progresses.

[@barrowswights801]

I feel you. There are definitely some gaps in the time it took to weave the pieces because I would put off the warping. 😂 My issue is that my brain tries to tell me that I have to get it all done at once, but I'm getting better at not doing that.

[@AnnePecaro]

Loved following along with you. Thank you for taking the time to film and edit ❤

[@barrowswights801]

Thanks for watching!

[@amyofmelbourne]

That colour is stunning! Amazing work!

[@barrowswights801]

Thank you!

[@kitdubhran2968]

Me: *rage at weaving being annoying* *puts it to the side* This video: *pops up in my feed* *is inspiring* Me: *looks over at loom* Goddamnit.

[@barrowswights801]

That's always the way, isn't it? 😆

[@alaskabarb8089]

Oh uck, warping flashbacks 😹! Good job.👍🏻 I use a flat maple bar to beat down the weft rows - some looser twist wool yarns can become a bit shaggy when repeatedly run through the small holes of the heddle. Lovely green color yarn, nice music, and cute corgi. The finished fabric is just beautiful! Can’t wait to see the tunic😍

[@barrowswights801]

Great tip about using a different bar to beat down the weft. I'll have to keep it in mind if my warp yarns don't like the heddle. Thanks!

[@FelixTheAnimator]

I find vertical warp weighted looms the most intuitive & comfortable to use.

[@Jade_Coeurl]

what knowledge and dilligence you have! it's an amazing craft and one that I wish I could try too! great work!

[@barrowswights801]

Thank you! It's worth trying if you get a chance, even if you just make a little mat to put hot mugs on. I started with a 10" loom made for kids and you can do a lot with that!

[@n.m.dooley1951]

To be perfectly honest, dye lots did not exist “in period”. What I mean is, every batch was different, that a single garment may be several different shades of the same color. Don’t be so hard on yourself. You’re weaving is marvelous!

[@lindamahan15]

Oh my! that tunic is a real labor of love. Beautiful work

[@barrowswights801]

Thanks! I'm really enjoying the work.

[@leighway1122]

Just happened on this and enjoyed every single second, tho didn't understand all of it. I'm a quilter not a weaver but there's always time.... Really well done and informative. Keep going!

[@barrowswights801]

Thanks for watching!

[@debcarron7644]

I love this video! Talk about task commitment!

[@barrowswights801]

Thanks!

[@biquinary]

I'm brimming with admiration, so coooooool

[@barrowswights801]

Thank you!

[@cuppajavaplease]

Beautiful work! Thank you.

[@barrowswights801]

Thanks!

[@christianaweber6349]

Thank you for showing me a different way to warp my loom!

[@travelingsnail]

I enjoyed watching you warp and weave, nice choice in music too. I also have projects that have been going on for years. By the way my favorite waistcoat was the plaid one with pink/red;. did you make that?

[@barrowswights801]

I did! And it's always nice to hear that I'm not the only one with WIPs that take a long time. 👍

[@teenyw]

That green is just beautiful!

[@barrowswights801]

Thank you!

[@vernonbowling5136]

Finally an explanation of the importance of a warping board.

[@barrowswights801]

They're handy things to have if you do long warp weaving. 👍

[@paulinemegson8519]

That must be one of the most satisfying feelings EVER to lay out your folded bundles of cloth and know that you created them, they’re from YOUR hands and hard work. I’ve done natural dying, spinning, and experimented with tapestry and rug weaving on a homemade frame loom but I’ve never created a garment so good on you. Brilliant project!!.I’d love to do it tho, except since I can’t afford a loom, maybe on a warp weighted loom…..hell our ancestors did it lol. I don’t have much space tho, and less money, nor health these days lol, but I can dream I guess 😆 😊

[@chublett]

This is crazy! Super interesting video.

[@barrowswights801]

Thanks for watching!

[@skipmage]

you were talking about warping the loom and I had to drop a like because that is so real.

[@barrowswights801]

😂😂 Thanks for watching

[@ruiqing7]

I've never seen looming done before, this is so cool :o

[@barrowswights801]

It's really fun, too. Before I bought my looms, I would make little upright looms out of cardboard to hang off a doorknob to scratch that weaving itch. Those things only made coaster sized mats and were like... grade-school craft project level work, but it got me interested in doing more of it.

[@FirnMamaMakes]

💚💚💚

[@feeseize9569]

Great video.

[@barrowswights801]

Thanks!

[@seanmorello6164]

Okay, I just found my newest favourite channel! You are fantastic, and so lovely may I add to see more queer creators ❤❤❤ Keep up the fabulous work!

[@reelynn77]

This is such a great project! I can't wait to see how it turns out. I am just starting weaving and want to make all sorts of things. Seeing this makes me believe it is possible. I am using a backstrap loom with rigid heddles so I am hoping it will be a sort of less expensive (and less space taking) way to get even weaves like you would get with a rigid heddle loom. We shall see. I haven't started it yet, too scared. Seeing this makes me want to start, however. I LOVE the colors. Also, did you weave your cool vests?

[@barrowswights801]

Thanks! I hope you have a good time with your backstrap loom. I've tried it, but I am the type of person whose brain thinks setting things up and weaving are two separate tasks, so I would just never pick up any backstrap weaving. 😬 I need my looms to sit there and be ready for me. 😂 I did weave the green/blue vest. I'm pretty sure all the other ones are made with fabric I bought, but I just did a quick skim through the video, so I may have missed one, lol

[@NinaKiruto]

This is stung and amazing and super cool. I’m just dipping my little toe into weaving and I loved this progress vlog, your fabric turned out so beautiful, that warp yarn is so gorgeous. I have a question: what’s the yarn measuring you were doing in the beginning with the pegs? And I loved the closing off of the weave with that contrasting red so pretty❤ I’m stoked to see the rest of the progress!

[@barrowswights801]

So the yarn measuring in the beginning on my warping board is to measure out the long vertical warp yarns that will be the whole length of the woven piece. When you're working with shorter lengths (my preference for this is anything less than 6 ft), you can warp the yarns right onto the loom I have and loop the other end around a peg clamped to a table on the other side of the room. Because my warps for this project are very long, I use the board to sort contain this process instead of looping long strands of yarn throughout my entire place.

[@rowenazuercher5363]

What dent did you use on your loom? And what sett was your warp? I'm so impressed by this fabric!!

[@barrowswights801]

I don't think I ever measured the sett for the warp, so I don't have the number on hand. The heddle was 15 dents per inch. I did include some details in the notes below the video, so check there if you have any other questions!

[@lollierhodes6292]

Hey there! What's that stitch that you do in orange/red to sign off your weaving? I'm just learning weaving right now and haven't seen it before!

[@barrowswights801]

You can find tutorials on that stitch by searching for "hem stitch." I'm not 100% sure I'm actually doing it right in this video. I really should look it up every time because it helps keep the end from fraying, but sometimes I just wing it based on my vague memories. 😆

[@donnadees1971]

Have you ever read Silas manner?

[@Sarah-tq2jx]

Did you end up finishing it?

[@barrowswights801]

Still working on it. Life gets in the way, you know how it is. Hopefully soon though!

[@RogueAlchemyArts]

Wonderful to see your work :) My only question is why didn't you just weave closer to the end of the warp? You would be over in yardage, yes, but extra fabric is good to have, for patching, for constructed accessory pieces, etc... no judgement, just curious as to why.

[@barrowswights801]

Thanks for your question! I don't know if this is a problem that other weavers have, but for me the shed (the space between the top set of yarns and bottom set of yarns) gets very thin in the last 10-12 inches of the warp, so it's actually difficult to move the shuttle through. I also find it difficult to keep the top yarns up and the bottom yarns down with how tight the tension is by that point; everything wants to kind of stay in the middle and not separate. If I start seeing a lot of mistakes or it's hard to move the shuttle, then I call it a day and the piece is done.

[@RogueAlchemyArts]

@@barrowswights801 thank you for answering my question, and that makes sense. I've only ever tablet woven, on an inkle loom, so I understand what you are talking about and can translate how that works in a smaller format when I weave to the larger format that you are working with. The fabric you have made is gorgeous and I'm looking forward to seeing your finished garment. :)

[@Odontecete]

What warping board is that? I would love one! Ok I have so many questions, fellow weaver here: What is your Sett and epi? And what color did you use to dye from whom? It looks like jade but could it be emerald green? I'm asking because I've been trying to find a true emerald green that isn't too yellow and that color is showing perfect! Final question: are you on Ravelry?

[@barrowswights801]

I love getting questions on videos. 😂 I'm not sure which manufacturer I ended up going with, but I'm 90% sure I bought it from The Woolery (woolery.com). The Ashford Warping Board - Large looks like the one I have, but it's basically a rectangle with holes for pegs, so if you know anyone with woodworking inclinations, it would be pretty easy for someone to make. I used a 15 dpi heddle which resulted in about 17 ends per inch in the finished fabric with a warp of fingering weight BFL yarn. The green is a custom color. I only bought dye in primary colors and black ages ago when I first started playing with dye. They're acid dyes from Dharma Trading Co. I do have a video up about preparing for weaving with some of the dyeing details in it, but I don't remember if I posted the exact recipe. For 100g dry yarn weight, I used 0.6 g blue dye, 0.4 g yellow dye, 0.1 black dye, and 10g of a dyer's salt to help even out the dyeing process. It might not be exactly the color you're looking for in real life, but it's a place to start if you want to mix a custom color. Yes, I am on Ravelry, but I don't use it for much more than buying and storing patterns these days. I was in a rut making things for social media approval and ended up injuring myself in 2018 trying to keep up with faster knitters, so I made the decision to kind of cold-turkey it at the end of 2019/beginning of 2020.

[@katybe6]

@bina nocht European historical practice was to dye with yellow (weld) and then dye a second time with blue (woad). The double dye process made green a more expensive colour. You could also try modifying a yellow with iron or copper, depending on what particular green shade you are after. If a yellow + blue is too bright a dull red (madder over cooked) can be added as a third process to shift the hue. The plants listed in brackets are not the only plants you can use, just the most common.

[@karlaverbeck9413]

I will wonder as i wear my clothes what wearing a hand woven garment would be like. Surely it would last far longer!

[@barrowswights801]

Longer might depend on the fabric and how well I sew it, but I find that it's easier for me to mend and patch the stuff that I make because I already know how all the components behave. 👍

[@essiroiha9781]

My goodness I love this. And yes, warping can reeeally be a pain. May I ask, where did you get your loom?

[@HandmadeDarcy]

If it's useful, the loom is an Ashford Rigid Heddle loom (as against their "knitters" looms, which also have rigid heddles, but fold up for social weaving sessions 😁) It looks like the 32", but it may be wider. Ashford is a New Zealand, family company and their looms are divine! Made of solid ash, and a joy to wax and assemble.

[@essiroiha9781]

@@HandmadeDarcy Thanks! I'm definitely gonna look into it. I need one just like yours.

[@barrowswights801]

I'm pretty sure I bought it from The Woolery woolery(dot)com. It's an Ashford 24" loom with the 15 dpi heddle. I think the default one that comes with the loom is a 7.5 dpi heddle, which has a wider spread of warp yarns.

[@essiroiha9781]

@@barrowswights801 I was lucky enough to find a shop here in Finland which carries Ashford looms. Maybe this is a sign for me to finally start my project.❤

[@lizb7271]

I'll be honest and say I have only a very basic understanding of what you are doing, despite weaving being a major historical industry in my local area and having seen a bunch of 19th century machine looms in a museum as a child.

[@barrowswights801]

That's cool! I've seen bits of older looms from commercial mills that have closed down in my state (you can buy the shuttle spools at like... every antique store, lol), but I haven't seen too many actual looms.

[@donnadees1971]

Nice, but it is an awful lot of work to get started. Sorry, but lovely fr you