Webinar - Trailer / Caravan Sway and How to Prevent and Handle It

[@L2SFBC]

00:00 introduction 01:58 What is sway? 03:11 How does sway work? 04:43 Easy way to fix sway 05:15 dealing with sway without an electric brake system 07:03 reducing sway risk 10:40 location of brake controller 12:20 practice braking 13:40 caravan crash investigation 18:10 salespeople problems - vans and cars 21:05 pre-purchase weight deal 22:17 aftermarket sway systems 23:25 effect of increasing nose weight 24:09 electronic stability control systems 26:23 who can help me set up my van? 27:00 towing license 29:05 stupidity vs not knowing 30:00 setting up to reduce sway 31:20 rear tyre pressures & weights 32:00 more setting up to reduce sway 36:44 weight checks by police - stats 37:44 travelling with tanks empty/full 38:20 wheel alignment 40:00 offroad van height 41:00 tyres choice 43:40 effect of extended hitch 45:00 John's words of wisdom 46:55 speed and sway effects

[@arwedlang3702]

Being a professional mechanical engineer, I can only add to say that this presentation is correct and users should take due notice as it is of utmost vital for safe driving.

[@L2SFBC]

Thanks, please share :-)

[@Cruner62]

You can read hundreds of the same narrative and still they snake with deadly consequences - Differential Stability is the only way forward.

[@eugeneanamiaa8860]

Good job guys. I’m in middle of Canada and your videos have been in top three for the various topics on safe towing.

[@L2SFBC]

Thanks more to come! Please share 👍

[@heatherscanlon613]

Robert - you are a godsend with these videos. We've owned a travel trailer in the eastern U.S. for nearly two years. We've had IMMENSE problems with sway after doing lots of research before buying a trailer, dealer installing the WDH with sway bars WAY wrong, constant problems. We are very lucky to have up to 6 human and one furry family member still alive after so many problems. We could write a book...tire blow outs, hitch installed wrong, bike rack breaking through bumper and dragging down highway, etc. etc. Then the sway...oh my. We had heard all the suggestions to accelerate through the sway, brake the vehicle, etc. We have now watched all eight of your videos on sway and are totally clear on what to do if we have sway (stop accelerating, engage trailer brakes) and are working to get more weight low and center. We love to bike and had nowhere to carry bikes in our SUV tow vehicle or our travel trailer so had initially installed a heavier duty bumper with a hitch receiver to carry a bike carrier and 4 bikes. That setup naturally pitched and yawed, more as it was cantilevered way beyond the rear of the travel trailer, and more still with vehicles passing us, going downhill, etc. That setup is now gone! You have taught us so much. We had long said that a special towing license or class should be required in the USA but alas there's none. So we are grateful to you in lieu of that!

[@L2SFBC]

Hi Heather, I really appreciate this post as creating this content is a lot of hard work for little monetary reward. What keeps me going night after night is knowing I've made a difference to people like yourself, and whilst I can't be sure, I like to think my work has saved lives. So thank you for providing another burst of motivation for me, it's great to wake up to a comment like this.

[@heatherscanlon613]

@@L2SFBC You are making a HUGE difference Robert. Such a shame that this is not more lucrative for you; you clearly put a lot of time and effort into sharing your insight, creative demonstrations, guest experiences and presentations, etc. I'd love trailer manufacturers or even dealers to pay attention to you - manufacturers slap these units together and dealers who don't know or don't care push them out the door so fast though that quality and safety are not priorities. We had been searching for answers like yours for a very long time and received so much conflicting information that we had no idea what to do. For intelligent, educated people, we were clueless and spinning our proverbial wheels. Now here's another question I wonder if you've answered elsewhere but I have yet to find. If not, maybe another video? Tire inflation when towing. We've gotten horribly conflicting information. For the travel trailer, inflate to max PSI (80PSI cold per our tire and TT printed guidance plus tire shop) or less if trailer is not max loaded as some RV owners suggest? For tow vehicle, we recently heard to over-inflate tires (tow vehicle calls for 35 PSI but tires can take more) when towing. Really? Tires heat up, but add ~ 3-5 pounds of pressure even in hot weather, no? Some people say yes, others say, up to 10PSI increase in hot conditions. Sigh. On one recent trip with brand new 10 ply tires (some had promised us would make a difference in our swaying but so far, no good), we had a blowout with one tire and got a screw in another to flatten it. We don't live THAT close to the Bermuda Triangle.

[@L2SFBC]

Tyre pressures are, even to Formula 1 engineers, a bit of a guess. Anyone that gives precise numbers is dreaming. However, there are general rules. One is that the more load on a tyre the more air you need in it - so, always add maybe 3-4psi to the rear tyres of a towcar. A good way to check is to measure the contact patch unhitched, hitch, then increase pressure to the original contact patch. 10psi sounds way too much to me. I plan to do more on this subject. Over-inflating tyres is dangerous; the carcass can be damaged, and you'll get a rough ride which can induce sway and will increase braking distances. Never go to max-inflate unless you're actually loading the tyre to its maximum! Like anything, too much of a good thing is a bad thing. Trailer makers don't support me because I want to get them to pay attention to good trailer dynamic design and that's expensive and doesn't sell. I also support training which they see as an impediment to sales. So, it's just me!

[@Wildernessadventuresoz]

Thanks for this. My engineer father always said whatever the vehicle specs say it can take minus 1000kgs and that’s the safe tow weight for that vehicle. This was fantastic information.

[@Cruner62]

Load of nonsense with respect.

[@ronb7105]

Excellent presentation, lots of information from start to finish. Had the same thought about the muddy tyre trend, can’t see the logic when a good set of highway/all-terrain LT’s will outperform in any situation. I don’t agree with the idea of “sharing the braking duties” with my wife, aside from the possible legal aspect, I can’t imagine a passenger effectively timing the whole scene with the driver. Loosely following a few caravanning “influencers” doing their big lap and it’s refreshing to see some have the humility to admit overloading and battle that elusive balance. It’s made my next van purchase much more complex, but am happy taking my time to get it right.

[@L2SFBC]

The right tyre for a van in my view, even an offroad camper, is an all-terrain LT. Please note...you can get LT (light truck) construction tyres in road an AT patterns. However, they don't look insta-tuff. As for legalities, if the van is swaying I think you do what you have to do. Having an alert passenger actually does work and work well; it's also worked in cases where a passenger has applied the emergency brake on modern Land Rovers which triggers an immediate stop.

[@jcjaramillomo]

Weight distribution, speed, GVM, and much more is great information to tow right, and not planning is planning for failure. However, there is only one way to get out of the situation if you are really in it (trailer sway). The first technical aspect described is that the trailer goes faster than the car. So what can you do without letting go of the stirring wheel, without hoping the passenger is not distracted and knows what the F is happening. PUNCH THE PEDAL TO THE METAL, which will make the car speed up to the trailer speed, and the force in the hinge point will be at pull, not a push and the car will gain control of the trailer direction. If you can not do that there is something you are doing already wrong and you're F'ed, going too fast, going too fast down the hill, the car doesn't have the grunt for the trailer mass...... you name it. I might only be towing in Australia for only 6 years and a trailer designer for 4 years. But back in my home town, I have been heavy twoing in the farm since I was 16 (20 years towing experience).

[@L2SFBC]

Sorry, accelerating to fix sway doesn't work in practice. Why not is explained here -> kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJSTn5ewbpd8jbs

[@Eddie_Turbo]

I don't understand how your channel doesn't have tens of thousands of subscribers!!!

[@L2SFBC]

Thanks please share comment etc that helps !

[@stevegoodwin5841]

Another awesome informative video that will save lives if viewed. Thanks Robert.

[@L2SFBC]

Glad you enjoyed it please share :-)

[@iangoodwin345]

Researching our first van now. The more I see of this information, the more I'm thinking that motel rooms look a lot safer and simpler. Thanks gents for your contribution to this video.

[@L2SFBC]

We do focus on the negatives. Fact is thousands tow successfully. By watching this I can assure you that you are already safer than most! But the money spent on a van will buy a lot of hotel stays.

[@iangoodwin345]

Thanks Robert. I'm watching every video you publish on towing, plus videos by John and many others. Education by You Tube is giving me confidence to ask the right questions and be aware of what to look for.

[@L2SFBC]

Three more on the way which will help :-)

[@MrGoMario]

You should discuss more the relevance of wheel alignment! On light trailers that is not important but on heavy trailers the wheel alignment is crucial.

[@bigglyguy8429]

"Hit that brake controller" - that I don't have? Great tip.

[@L2SFBC]

That refer to what they could have done, not you.

[@davidmanning8329]

Excellent vid. Thanks for posting it.

[@L2SFBC]

Thanks please share 👍

[@EmObReNdAnJaCkAsS]

Hayman Reese also have their dual cam wdh that incorporates sway control with a push/pull effect through the spring bars.

[@crystalemeralddiamond9571]

Great video and very educational. If nothing else a towing licence would encourage Driver B to get behind the wheel more often and Driver A to share the diriving more simply because they've shelled out to get the licence in the first place. Money talks. That would ensure they were gaining the experience they need to improve their skills.

[@L2SFBC]

Well said!

[@mrjunkp7090]

Root cause of sway is because the trailer is hitched to the truck behind the rear axle. The tongue weight is applied behind the tow vehicles rear axle on the hitch ball which shifts the trucks center of gravity so far back that it increases the chance of the truck fishtailing. you cant hang all that weight on the back of the tow vehicle and expect it to be stable. So the #1 important thing to reduce sway is to use a weight distribution hitch, which moves the hitch weight to the front of the truck and the rear of the trailer with its spring tension action. The weight distribution is confirmed by measuring fender height on tow vehicle first when empty and then with trailer on. ***Yes, moving you gear around will make a small difference in towing performance, but dont make it sound like its more important than the weight distribution hitch!!!*** A weight distribution hitch with sway control like the Reese Dual cam sway also called Strait-line is a god send. Both of us drive and have been towing for about 25 years with long trips of 16 hours one way, 9000 lb camper at 70mph and can honestly say that sway is minimal to non-existent with the Reese hitch. Your safety depends on a good setup.

[@nickjennings3500]

Very interesting , thanks 👍

[@michaelharris1222]

Hi Robert, thanks for your well-researched and informative video presentation. Your content has been so helpful in my education leading up to my picking up a new (1600kg) camper trailer later this year. Your guest was critical of camper trailers that had mud terrain tyres fitted as standard and this is what mine will come fitted with (16" wheels with 33" mud terrain tyres). I don't intend to drive on the sort of terrain that would necessitate such rubber so, could you recommend a type of tyre that would be more suitable? My plan for the first few years is to travel mostly on bitumen with the odd foray onto unsealed roads. My tow vehicle (2020 Mazda BT-50) currently has H/T tyres fitted. Maybe as I build experience in coming years, I may undertake more gruelling off-road adventures!

[@L2SFBC]

Mud tyres are a waste of money on 99% of trailers, and you'll regret the choice when it's high-speed wet bitumen. Just run light-truck construction all-terrains. Reason; you need strength, and the trailer wheels don't need to drive, just brake and provide lateral grip. And for a single axle both wheels are always in contact with the ground.

[@michaelharris1222]

@@L2SFBC Thanks for your prompt reply. Much appreciated. Keep up the great work.

[@craignelson-swiftyenzed7578]

"You can watch the video now or watch it from your hospital bed" Noted.

[@robertwilson1827]

Enjoy your videos! Thankyou for sharing your experiences! Would you know somewhere i could buy a set of que cards, for the glovebox, on propper towing techniques, please?? Kind regards, r

[@L2SFBC]

Wait for my book on towing :-)

[@Bennyboy-dog]

Thanks gents, that was indeed a long but very useful and informative video. I have a few questions: 1/ What effect does the length of the A frame have on stability? 2/ Does having underslung weight (water tanks, spare tyres, grey water tanks) improve stability?

[@L2SFBC]

The longer the distance between the towball and the wheels, the greater the stability of the trailer. Yes underslung, central weight improves stability. This can be seen in the video below. However as John said, the weight must be low. The higher up the weight, the greater the propensity to pitch, and excess pitch will increase the risk of sway. So, if your tanks are central, travel with them full. The more weight you put in the centre of the trailer the greater the resistance to sway. The more weight you put at the extremties (eg motorbikes on drawbar, heavy wheels at the back) the greater the propensity to sway. Video below shows most of that pretty clearly. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gJaodnZrmruBec0

[@Bennyboy-dog]

@@L2SFBC Thanks Robert.

[@bobtwartz8751]

i would like to see your model with a goose neck trayler how soon will it be befour the poilce check all towing vehicles for weights and measurements as there are a lot of rtalers over loaded and not straped down properly

[@davexb6595]

I think there might be support for a towing endorsement if all that was required was to watch a couple of videos on (a) hitching up, weight limits and (b) avoiding sway etc. In other words just a way to know they were provided the key information. However we all know it would inevitably expand to include a theory test and a practical reversing test and all sorts of things. Plus be used by the states as a revenue source, charged every year. And that is why it would not get public support.

[@bigglyguy8429]

Exactly, give an inch they'll take a metric kilometer and tax your for a mile

[@timgutter2708]

Here in Canada trailer sway would be blamed on racism and the video would include Diversity training.

[@jlebron6997]

Is ball weight considered to be tongue weight?

[@L2SFBC]

Yes same thing

[@jlebron6997]

@@L2SFBC Thank you!

[@barryhall4668]

I am surprized that no one knows what to do if a caravan or large trailer starts to sway, A swaying caravan or trailer will start steering the car in either direction, Do not try to fight this as you will only make things worse, Lock your arms and steer straight ahead take your foot of the accelerator, do not apply the brakes or accelerate the vehicle, You can apply the trailer brakes if you are able. I have used this method and it does work. If the problem persists you will need to proceed at a slower speed & fit anti sway bars to your vehicle

[@L2SFBC]

No, don't accelerate. That doesn't work with a diesel 4x4 moving 5-6t. Just use the trailer brakes alone.

[@barryhall4668]

@@L2SFBC As I said Do not Accelerate, Do not Brake, You can apply the trailer brakes if you are able, But you have seconds to react and may not have time to find them , Lock that steering wheel dead straight, It does work.

[@Benoit-Pierre]

17:40 due to the number of accidents, the basic driver license in France includes more and more clues about light trailers (below 750kg ), and now have a specific driver license for heavy trailers for cars (between 750k and 3t5 ). in any way, the trailer may never be heavier that the car.

[@placestosea]

thanks for this, a lot of good information. a topic where design ( or lack of) has a huge effect. you touched on brake controllers ( and their location) what 'could' be explained further is their actual operation ( eg: differences between different brands etc) might have a different result. eg: when applied manually, does the full power go to the trailer brake or is it user controllable? there are also many variables not checked like -- the assumption is the wiring is all correct, eg: is the earth return of the vehicle wiring ( via a typical 7 pin plug) sufficient for trailer full ( accident type) braking ( including at night with all trailer clearance lights on as well? think pre LED?) Hope this helps.

[@L2SFBC]

Ahahha...you are looking at my computer where the above will be covered! Yes it does help thank you, even if I have it on my list then it's hugely reassuring to have people ask for it, thanks.

[@placestosea]

@@L2SFBC I look forward to seeing your next video on this. have you ever looked at some of the different adjustable height tow hitches ( and how they add extra 'unwanted' length) due to their design?

[@L2SFBC]

Yes. Plan on modifying the model towcar to show the evils. Also see my latest blog post.

[@bvward]

Robert, favorite New Jersey distraction in our summer months: Someone on the highway towing either too fast in and out of traffic, or squandering the fast (left) lane well under the limit. As far as I know, none of the States in the US have trailer licenses or restrictions. Some roads do ban car-pulled trailers, though. Typical US driving license: Answer a few questions, learn how to parallel park, use your indicators. No documented hours/miles of instruction.

[@L2SFBC]

We have GLS Graduated Licensing System here. Works well but I would imagine citizens of the USA would not agree with it.

[@bvward]

@@L2SFBC Agreed... Most states don't have annual vehicle inspection after 25 years old...

[@timgutter2708]

Same here in Canada. For some reason parallel parking is the big test, even though most people never will never park that way.

[@joeking4583]

great video, but its only good if you have electric brakes, for those of us who only have overrun brakes its pretty poor, so as self proffest experts you say dont increase speed to correct sway,what do you do

[@L2SFBC]

You slow down the towcar slowly...which is far from ideal but the best you can do.

[@drmarkintexas-400]

🏆🏆🏆👍🇺🇲🙏. Thank you for sharing

[@oldschoolisnewschool]

This happed to me. I took my foot off the accelerator. Looked in my rear view mirrors and steered opposite of the away. I recovered perfectly. All the trafic behind me slowed and I was swayaing. I was going down hill. I had too much weight in the rear of the trailer. I also think that I maid a deal with the devil. But I'm not realy too sure about that. It all happed so fast. I guess I will find out as time passes.

[@a.joegevara3519]

I scrap a lot of metal, some very heavy steel. I'm curious about heavy payload placement, not front,center or back. But if heavy items should be spread out closer to the sides or pushed in closer to the center line?? I try to be safe, in my past, I was guilty of some sketchy things while towing.

[@L2SFBC]

Centralised over axles.

[@a.joegevara3519]

@@L2SFBC Thanks, that is how I loaded it. Smooth as silk for the 30 mile drive home. This is great information you're providing!

[@AussieMatias]

Interested to hear your thoughts on this...why do car dealers say a WDH is incompatible with cars that have trailer sway built in? When reading how trailer sway feature works on a car, it seems to be counterintuitive to what I have learned through your channel to prefer braking the trailer, not the car. Trailer sway feature on a car just applies the brakes to the car only? Is that correct? In short, is trailer sway feature on a car actually proven to be any good?

[@L2SFBC]

There is no reason why a WDH is precluded by car TSC. None. However some carmarkers ban use of WDH on their vehicles, so possibly the dealers are confusing correlation with causation. With all due respect to car dealers, do not use them as a source of advice on towing or anything other than the price of the vehicle. Refer to my electronic sway systems video for more detail.

[@AussieMatias]

@@L2SFBC totally agreed mate, most of the advice is garbage same with what people repeat online. And my thoughts around TSC going against what you probably should be doing? I watched a Mazda BT50 video on TSC and it says brakes are applied, possibly on one side but honestly very little details on how it works. Will check if your video covers that.

[@L2SFBC]

Hi yes my video covers both trailer and car ESC

[@Cruner62]

This is called "Simple Harmonic Motion" and unless it has a control system to address it the problem will persist - only "Differential Stability Control" can stop this once and for all.

[@sailingcitrinesunset4065]

06:07 I have found a couple of times towing my boat with over ride brakes the trailer started to sway. I didnt brake I just kept the wheel straight with 2 hands & backed off the accelerator and the car & trailer stopped swaying around 80km/h. After those couple of events I dont tow my boat above 80kmh. My boat trailer has about 7% ball weight. Im in the process of buying a heavier tow vehicle. At time of those incidents my car weighed 2 tonne & my boat weighted 2 tonne.

[@Therapistinthewhitehouse]

How do you asses the ball weight on a twin axle trailer?

[@L2SFBC]

Use a ball weight scale

[@Therapistinthewhitehouse]

@@L2SFBC how does that work on a twin axle trailer? The reason I ask is that our 4 boat trailer (4x250kg dragon boats) is damn heavy even when unloaded and I can’t tell when I’m measuring ball weight or trying to lift the trailer. It’s easy on a single axle as it seesaws around the single axle but a heavy twin is different, because the fulcrum is between the two axels and as soon as you try to lift the hitch you’re in effect trying move that pivot point to the rear axle. Therefore you’re now trying to lift more of the trailers mass. What I’ve always done is had the center of mass of the 4 boats 300-500mm ahead of the mid point of the 2 axles and once I’m hitched up I check that the suspension of the van isn’t squatting. I also load as much as possible into the tow van even though its a PITA to unload on my own after a race rather than have everything in the boats. On a side note, when I first started towing I had someone tell me to accelerate hard out of a sway. I ignored that because I couldn’t see the logic in adding speed into an already dangerous situation. The only time I ever got a hint of sway was when my speed crept up over my usual 90-95kmh to 115-20 going down a steep hill. I took my foot off the gas and very gently braked and it stopped instantly. I was more annoyed with myself for not concentrating than scared at the time but it did make me think later how close I was to screwing up, big time and to never do it again.

[@L2SFBC]

Measuring the ball weight is the same process twin or single, but yes they react differently as you've noted. Don't accelerate out; the videos on my Sway playlist explain why.

[@dtnicholls1]

I would love to see additional licensing for trailers, of any weight. Just a simple endorsement that can be done when learners graduate to their Ps to prove they've learnt how to reverse a trailer and understand loading and load restraint, through to requiring either specialist driver training or a heavy vehicle license where towing is included in the training, such as with HC licenses, for towing braked trailers. Also zero blood alcohol when towing. The fact people can have a drink and go throw their 7t plus rig down the road is dumb and dangerous. I think the other thing that really needs to change is how trailer manufacturers build their trailers and vans in the first place. Being allowed to produce a trailer that has such poor roll and yaw inertia characteristics is just ridiculous. There needs to be limits put on the way weights are distributed throughout the trailer. Tare weights should also be changed to include full tanks, fresh, grey, fuel, whatever. Their full weight is what should be included in the tare. This 10% ball weight BS needs to be stopped as well. It's blatantly untrue and is just a cover up for poorly designed trailers. You shouldn't even need 5% to maintain a stable combination where your trailer and tow vehicle are properly set up. I'd put money on a sub 100kg ball weight on a 3.5t trailer where that weight is all in a concrete block over the axles being substantially more stable than a good number of vans you see rolling down the road. High ball weights just cover up poor design and pander to the desire of people to tow at excessive speeds. Basically this whole towing thing just ticks me off. Between the lies salesmen come out with to sell a car or van to the dumb crap in Facebook groups etc that gets shared as gospel, nobody wants to listen when you try and point out simple facts. Better regulation and vehicle standards and formal training requirements are the only thing that's going to fix that.

[@L2SFBC]

With you on that. I run 5% on my 2350kg van.

[@dtnicholls1]

@@L2SFBC I only came across your channel the other day when you did a video with madmatt. It's good to see someone properly explaining how this stuff works, even if it doesn't help make friends with the manufacturers. I reckon you mentioned that you have a video with stability calculations in it, but I can't seem to find it... Any chance you can tell me which one it is? Keep up the good work mate.

[@L2SFBC]

Hmm depends which calculations. I have a bunch on towing and sway. Can you expand? Yes I get no financial support from manufacturers and prefer to rely on my viewers and readers.

[@dtnicholls1]

@@L2SFBC Was hoping to see something around the interaction of weight distribution and speed (inertia) and oscillation. Basically the maths that describe the point it goes from damping to amplifying sway and how load and load distribution affect it. I know that's not exactly a small ask (and to be clear, I'm not asking - I suspect that kind of video would have a rather tiny audience appeal and not worth the time and effort it would take), and was hoping that that's what you'd meant you'd already done, rather than just adding up and understanding various vehicle weights (GCM, GVM, ATM, GTM etc) This stuff is hard to find good information on, mostly it's just described as "physics dictates", which while true just doesn't do it for me. And yes, I am one of those strange types with a whiteboard in the living room just for doing fun maths problems on. ;)

[@L2SFBC]

You are correct it is a niche audience and also extremely difficult to calculate given all the variables. Beyond my capability to model. Any such model would I feel need a lot of simplifications which would render it useless for real world setup. I do plan on doing more with the 1 10 scale model you see. And if I ever get funding, a full size version which I can crash at will too fitted with lots of sensors!!

[@dirkjohnson1113]

What about weight distribution hitches? They solve a lot of issues, it seems.

[@Benoit-Pierre]

👍🏻

[@ronladuke7235]

In Canada most vehicles with up to a class 3 or 4 receiver ( most full size pickups) over 5or6 hundred pounds receiver weight a equlizer hitch is required. I dont think you emphasized the importance of an equelizer?? Note for tight manuvering or maybe off its better to remove the sping bars.

[@L2SFBC]

Not required in Australia, and shouldn't be needed for that van

[@stephenfiore9960]

1x(11/4/22)…1:00….7:20…..13:45….15:00….18:00……19:00….20:00…..26:00,..,,,,33:00….

[@Bennyboy-dog]

I like the idea of a towing license or endorsement for the training that requires but it is a hard sell. As John indicated, there are not that many trailer accidents (though the consequences tend to be very bad) and unfortunately we don't really trust our governments with another licensing/endorsement system where revenue aspect quickly eclipses the intention.

[@L2SFBC]

What would you suggest be in a licence?

[@Bennyboy-dog]

@@L2SFBC It would be an endorsement, like a heavy vehicle license with similar requirements - approved training and perhaps demonstration of skills. It would apply to trailers with brakes, so here in Australia, that would mean any trailer with a total weight over 750kg. A simple check by a policeman would result in a fine/demerit points and the inability to drive further with the trailer attached.

[@L2SFBC]

Agreed!

[@bigglyguy8429]

@@L2SFBC Absolutely nothing, because they would not stop at anything sensible. It would be full-on new license with onerous requirements and costs within 5 years - and you must realize that.

[@Davidsmith-mc2no]

Should over ride brack be made illegal as they are still used on trailers on hire one

[@L2SFBC]

They are only for trailers under 2000 GTM. They have a place.

[@joeblow1711]

It’s even worse now. Uhaul in Australia hire out a 3500kg rated car trailer with some stupid American hydraulic hitch and brake mechanism. No hand brake, no electric brakes, pretty much a big piece of shit that any idiot can connect to their car. Not sure how this is legal

[@L2SFBC]

Interesting, will look into that!

[@christurner68]

Words of wisdom take less things, keep it simple.

[@L2SFBC]

Agreed!