Welding Penetration Test First Attempt with the Lidl Parkside Inverter Welder TIG Welder PTMI 180 A1

[@MrFactotum]

eyup Ben Nice to hear from you, 3.2 looks much better, wow that new welders going to be the bee's knee's👍👍 bfn Kev

[@BensWorkshop]

Cheers. That little welder can certainly weld. Hopefully the new one lives up to the hype.... It's a lot of money. Many thanks for watching!

[@TheKnacklersWorkshop]

Hello Ben, A very interesting video... I like these sort of videos, thank you. Take care. Paul,,

[@BensWorkshop]

There will be another coming along soon... (on 10mm plate) Many thanks for watching!

[@GrumpyTim]

Definitely the 3.2 side looked nicer, but depending on what the joint was being used for it could have been fine just as it was. That's the joy of test pieces, you can examine the results and adjust your technique until you get exactly the result you wanted. Perfectly capable little welder, and it really is tiny isn't it! I did fear for your gauntlets - there's a bit of thermal mass in that 12mm steel!!!

[@BensWorkshop]

Very true, particularly the thermal mass bit! Many thanks for watching!

[@enginelover1]

That is really great for that. Hope that roller bearings on the bench are not any good as with spatters flying around they will be damaged. Thanks for sharing mate.

[@BensWorkshop]

I grabbed them from a scrap bin for the sproket they are attached to... But yes would have been better to put them out of the way/ Not bad for a little welder but Optimus Prime suggested that different settings would get full penetration. Many thanks for watching!

[@prime553]

Excellent review Ben I really appreciate it. Your 3.2 weld is very good. We have to remember this is 12mm steel so very thick. 130amps for 12mm steel would be on the minimum side of amperage so if welding it at 140-160 amps with the 3.2 I reckon the penetration would be very good. I noticed on the 4mm rods especially that your arc was to long resulting in it being cold and I could here the noise of the rod burning up and also see the odd flame. With rod welding it's always best to keep that rod buried into the work piece and a nice slow weld and weave touching then weld puddle at all times. That all comes with practice of course. You've sumed it up perfect at the end of your vid as both sides could still have been slower. No I'm happy with this review as this welder will be very good with 6mm to 12mm plate for me. Its exactly what I need as a 3rd welder that's light and mobile out of my work shop. On that basis I'll be buying one tomorrow. Your video just came out in time as they have come into Lidl today here in Ireland. Thanks I'm very grateful for you taking the time. Also very impressed that you didn't blow a fuse at 170 on the 3 pin. Is your consumer unti the bottle fuse or the MCB/RCB set up?

[@BensWorkshop]

Many thanks for the tips. I did not realise I could over burn a 3.25 to 160 Amps but now I know for the thick stuff. I have a lot of those rods! One thing that is a must, keep the receipt. I did have an issue (as it happens self repaired) with it deciding to be overheated from switch on once, I opened it up to check the temperature sensor was plugged in correctly but if there are any other issues it is good to keep the receipt. Just to clarify, you are saying that if I hit it with 160 Amps both sides I would have got it all the way through?

[@prime553]

@@BensWorkshop oh yes most construction of agricultural sheds are burning 3.2 rods when erecting them. 160 amps and the methods I've previously described would give you solid penetration on both those plates of the T joint. Also worth noting that different manufacturers of rods work better then others. If you were to make a car trailer let's say Max steel depth of angle and box on a 6x4 trailer would be 8-10mm. So imagine that welder with a 3.2 rod at 140-160 making a trailer. It would be solid as a rock. Yea I will keep the receipt. I've been looking online and Parkside have a whole new improved range called Parkside Performance and they look pretty good. I've already got one of the improved 4AH battery for the grinder and it is lasting longer as they clearly state. Very good

[@prime553]

@@BensWorkshop INE and Super 6 are the best rods I've found in my experience. I wouldn't touch Parweld rods.

[@BensWorkshop]

Cheers for the heads up on the Parkside performance and thanks for the tips!

[@BensWorkshop]

The 3.25MM rods I use are from ToolStation, cost £10 for 5KG.... So not bought on quality. Where would I get the rods you mentioned?

[@turboconqueringmegaeagle9006]

You've got a fuse in your welder? Mine likes bolts... Good tips thank you.

[@BensWorkshop]

A fuse in the plug.... Can't help that. You are welcome! Many thanks for watching, don't forget to like!

[@henrymurawskibigdogrepair]

Hello Ben long time no see mate

[@BensWorkshop]

That is true.... Been a while since I was making regular videos.... Should change. Many thanks for watching!

[@the3sounds]

Hi, I'm just about to begin learning. I have one of these, still sealed in the box. My question is can it be used with a regular UK residential (in the shed) socket? I'll just sell it on if not. Cheers.

[@BensWorkshop]

You will want to use an adaptor that will go from the 16A connection it has to a 13A plug (available on Amazon and is what I used). Also you need to limit the current to around 160A welding current or possibly less as otherwise it will blow fuses. Many thanks for watching, please like, share and if you like the channel, subscribe!

[@m.g.540]

Where is the TIG( Tungsten, Inert Gas) weld, looks like SMAW (Shielded, Metal Arc) to me?

[@BensWorkshop]

The request was for a test Arc weld rather than TIG. There is a full review of that welder here though, which includes TIG welding: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jWnEioZ-r82GaM0 Many thanks for watching, please like, share and if you like the channel, subscribe!

[@reaper060670]

Hey there. i bought a DekoPro stick/lift Tig elder a while age./ It says 160A but i found a small copper tube in the plug where a 13A fuse should be. I couldn't believe Amazon would allow that to be sold off their site. HOW DAMGEROUS IS IT TO HAVE THAT SMALL COPPER TUBE INSTEAD OF A PROPER 13a FUSE? I'm trying to weld some 2.5mm square tubing, butt joints for a frame for something I'm building. I wanted to ask what the best aps I should be welding at using 2.0mm rods. Could u give me any advice? I'm a complete newbie to welding. I was trying to weld one night in the shop and I didn't wear the leather Apron. I didn't use any covering at all and I think I got burned from it. Is it possible to get burned by UV off the welder?? Is that possible if u don't wear the right protective coverings?? Apologies for so mny questions pal. I'm loving the information off ur videos. I already watched the Bandsaw one and the new welder one with all the functions. I want to learn to stick weld 1st before trying other types next..

[@BensWorkshop]

It is possible to get sun burnt from the arc. Even worse with TIG. Always cover up, including hands and arms to stop both getting hit by sparks and light. On the welding, 2mm rod is appropriate for 2.5mm thick box, and I would start at 80 amps. The rule is normally 1 amp per thousandths of an inch and 2mm is 80 though. Make a test piece or two first from offcuts. Hope that helps. Again, many thanks for watching, please like, share and if you like the channel, subscribe!

[@BrettSucks]

Furst

[@BensWorkshop]

Many thanks for watching!