Whaler Restoration Project Ep 1

The first episode rebuilding and restoring a 1968 Boston Whaler 16'7"/ 17. Bought sight un-seen for $500 in Aug 2022.
I've done several Whalers before- usually you don't have to go this deep into the restoration... but for some reason I felt like sending it on this one!
It's actually in pretty good shape, there aren't many major dings or dents, the rub rail is in great condition structurally and the interior is decent. BUT, there were multiple soft spots and shotty repairs, and the transom was completely wet with severe rot in lower areas. This hull had all the typical spider cracks and crazing that are only solved by grinding all the way down to bare glass. Also the foam and wood is SOAKED, so that all comes out.

[@sean7193]

You are a wild man. Mad props for taking this on. love to see episode 2.

[@rpeek]

She's had a rough life. Glad you'e taking care of her.

[@kevinvey9474]

I've come to your channel late. I'm now subscribed. I have done restoration in the past. I have just purchased a 13' true basket case. What really caught my attention was the removal of the deck,foam and internal plywood. For me making the original 650 lbs. is the goal.

[@capttomharty]

Yes, this is definitely a deep dive! The internal plywood was completely rotten and if I do end up with a mahogany console the screws would not have held.

[@GROUNDPOUNDERFAB]

Now that the easy part is done.. time to get to work! Just kidding! Subscribed and looking forward to continued progress.

[@ohiopipper3956]

Getting ready to restore mine also going to be watching

[@BigC_33]

Great video. I have a '79 Montauk with many of the same issues. Hoping you can find the time for Episode 2!

[@capttomharty]

Hopefully soon!

[@douglasthompson2740]

I have had both the 17 just like yours and later on a 13. Had the 17 in the seventies and the thirteen in the late eighties. Biggest problem among many especially if they lived in the water was that the foam became one great sponge. The only way to get it dried was to peel the bottom off and rebuild it up. I had a friend that did that thinking he could save the foam. He turned the 13 footer over in a boat house and three years later he ended up stripping the foam. It soaks up water but it does not release it. Consequently they weigh huge amounts as the boat is soaked. A classic case of advertising making up for quality. Really thin glass dependent on the foam for strength. But they did float. Way to heavy to use as a tender on anything less than a fifty foot boat. A great dive boat especially the 17.

[@douglasthompson2740]

Funny, I never had a 17 apart. When I went to the local dealer to find out where the hard points were in the deck so I could fasten my heavy custom console he claimed it had plywood backing in several places that he pointed out. When I went to lag it in (later using glass and epoxy) none of the holes in his positions hit any plywood. I see by yours that there is none. I would highly recommend on any boat that you are removing structure from that you build an outside jig at three or four points to hold the hull shape. They can and most probably will sag lengthwise and thwartship. 2x4's on edge with uprights for the sides as stiffeners with plywood cut to the shape of the hull can be done quickly. A couple of 2x6's longitudinals holding the cross jigs in place will take care of it. Great sunny weather calm water boat.

[@capttomharty]

There are 3 strips of plywood here- one down the center and then each side for the console/ leaning post to mount to. These were completely rotten, which is why I went in from the top. The thin glass layup will be fixed with 1708 and then fresh foam and new divinycell deck.

[@tydengr]

Very good jog after 2 days

[@Estabonbon]

I used a machete to get the foam out.. worked great

[@jerimahjohnson8698]

I have a 1965 same version

[@TropicTrdr]

How deep did you set that saw blade? I had a 1971 Whaler in San Diego when I was in the Navy. Those spider cracks...

[@capttomharty]

As deep as it would go!

[@gmaj03]

I've got a 1966 I'm restoring myself. Sanded a lot of the bottom but didn't take it down to the fiberglass everywhere. Heard that wasn't necessary but you're taking a different approach and sounds like you've done this before. Does it need to be down to the fiberglass and are you planning to redo the entire bottom or just spots with new glass?

[@capttomharty]

I'm a fan of grinding the crazed gelcoat down especially on the old old ones, but to each their own. I think the cracks will always come back if not taken down to fiberglass. On this one I'll redo the entire bottom the same way - 36grit, 1 layer CSM, fair, epoxy prime.

[@spinfish1434]

You have a serious project, looks good. Episode 2 coming?

[@capttomharty]

I’m in California, boat is in Boston. Might be a minute until I can get back to it but lots to do!

[@spinfish1434]

@@capttomharty subscribed

[@BahamasCaneCorso]

What type disc did you use on the grinder

[@capttomharty]

@@BahamasCaneCorso 24 or 36g resin discs from ebay or amazon. 25 pack is like $30

[@BahamasCaneCorso]

Appreciate the info!

[@andreaschmidt3048]

Part 2?

[@thomasbarbjr.5934]

Nice work. I’m setting up to do the same. Are you going to add some framing to the hull to support the new deck? Trying to plan my build now.

[@capttomharty]

I'll be adding 1-2 layers of 1708 on the inside and then pouring new foam up to the deck, should be plenty.

[@thomasbarbjr.5934]

@@capttomharty I had the same plan. I was planning on 2lb foam a little higher than deck level, shaping into correct shape of floor and glassing in with 2 layers of 1708 and wrapping it up the gunnels a little. Looking forward to episode 2.

[@Orlosthedruid]

there are new types of sand blasting units out that can do amazingly accurate blasting, and they work on many different levels of aggresiveness. I wonder what they could do on fiberglass?

[@capttomharty]

I would love to try that, unfortunately my grinder skills are a blessing and a curse!

[@jasonsmith7809]

Does the 4.5 ginder make it harder to fair than using a DA, seems hard to keep grinder flat without making little gouges or ripples? Thanks.

[@capttomharty]

Yes, definitely aggressive/ makes rough gouges... but is a time saver in the end. On a boat this far gone the alternative with 60/ 80 on a DA would take weeks! Also, I'm going to lay fresh glass on top so smoothness isn't important yet.

[@douglasthompson2740]

Seemed like those early models with the blue liner were a bit different makeup for the blue liner. Never felt the same as fiberglass from about halfway down the side across the floor. Not sure what they used. Could have been the blue gel coat that was different. They came out in about 1963 when fiberglass technology was relatively new to the boating world. I was running wood skiffs when friends of mine started using the whalers in the mid sixties. The 13 would pound you hard in any kind of a chop while the 17 was better it was still a hard pounder. The exterior and the transom were way too thin and did as you say the spider cracking everywhere.

[@darrisb1727]

I would have done the transom from the inside. No right or wrong here but I would have done from the inside so I could glass the stringers in with the transom as one solid piece.

[@capttomharty]

I would agree with you on other boats but not on these Whalers. Much better (not to mention easier) to keep the structure of the splashwell in place and go from the outside.

[@darrisb1727]

@@capttomharty I did not realize they did not have actual stringers in them. I am currently about to start on a 16' 1966 MFG looks similar to the Whaler. I will start removing the cap off today and cutting out the transom. I will document the build on Iboats as I did with my other build on a 1979 Grady WA

[@ijake7262]

Theres a 13ft whaler in similar condition in my area for sale for $300. How much money do you estimate your restoration to end up costing?

[@capttomharty]

Grab it! You can build one out for less than you can buy one complete. Use polyester resin, sweat equity goes a long way, used motor, eBay for rigging, etc.

[@shawrowe]

Did you ever get that transom completed? I’m getting ready to start mine and need tips!

[@capttomharty]

Not yet, unfortunately going to be a while til I can get back around to it.

[@spinfish1434]

Did you end up selling the project?

[@capttomharty]

No sir! Just booked a flight back to work on it at the end of the month. Getting the heaters ready!

[@spinfish1434]

@@capttomharty Looking forward to seeing it take shape! 👍

[@samdavidson1838]

How many hours did it take to sand off all that gel coat. Holy moly

[@capttomharty]

The grinding goes pretty quickly! I use a 4.5" grinder with a 36g disc so much faster and messier than a DA with say 80 grit. Probably 6 hours inside and out, but still have the bottom to do.

[@samdavidson1838]

@@capttomharty thanks for the reply. Thats actually much quicker than I would have imagined. Now that you have it down to glass are you planning on fairing and paint or you gonna re gel coat? I'm about to get to sanding on a 16 currituck. Purchased a new 70 yamaha and now have rethought putting the motor on my hull the way it is. Definitely makes me wanna go further but I keep reminding myself a line has to be drawn somewhere. Thanks again 🤙

[@capttomharty]

@@samdavidson1838 She'll get another layer of glass, polyfair, and then primed/ painted with Awlgrip.

[@kodiham7532]

@@capttomharty This is the best video on a practical way to restore these old whalers. Hopefully you'll have time to educate us on completing this project. Question on the bottom when you get to it. I'll assume the same grind the gelcoat off. Will you lay fiberglass mat over (for strength) or just re-gelcoat? I have and old 11 foot whaler same condition. The bottom on mine is thin and too flexible many spider cracks.

[@capttomharty]

@@kodiham7532 Thanks! Yes, the bottom will be ground down too. It'll be a mess-- undoubtedly burn through in spots and uncover all sorts of cracks, prior patches and wet foam but is a necessary can of worms. Some spots will need to be dug out and re-foamed. After that a fresh layer or 2 of mat is definitely needed to uniformly reseal repairs, reinforce the thin factory skin and start the process of fairing.

[@vilmospuskas1892]

is there any other way to dry the foam? just removing?

[@capttomharty]

If this hull wasn't so bad a few dozen hole saw holes would be my approach; refoam and then glass over.

[@vilmospuskas1892]

@@capttomharty thanks. I remove the bottom fiberglass, and waiting for 2 weeks for drying

[@sean7193]

@@capttomharty what do you mean refoam? if you only had hole saw holes to let exiting foam dry then what would you be refoaming? just trying to learn for when I take this project on. thanks.

[@capttomharty]

@@sean7193 I'd use a 4" hole saw pulling out "core samples" so to speak. Wet core gets replaced with new foam, dry core allowed to stay- avoids pulling the deck.

[@jonm.7982]

Where's part 2??

[@capttomharty]

I wish I could say soon, but haven't gotten a chance to get back to it yet!

[@vilmospuskas1892]

@@capttomharty I am waiting part 2 too :)

[@65EVMPH]

If you’re watching this don’t do what he does here with the foam buy an multi tool vibrating saw greatest tool ever to saw that stuff out. I felt sorry for him watching all that grunt work…

[@capttomharty]

Haha, the multitool is literally sitting in the boat... its garbage for foam.

[@65EVMPH]

@@capttomharty I took the foam out of a 1961 Larsen in a couple hours sliced it into potato salad and scooped it out. I tried the grunt way you did and I’m too old for that. I got pictures for proof. That was my experience. I found the tool to finally be useful for something besides noise.