What Did I Do Wrong? 🧵🪡 Sewing Mistake Mystery Along With Fantastic Couture Hand Sewing

I find myself grappling with a myriad of questions, each one more perplexing than the last. Why is this small? How did I manage to draft this incorrectly? Why doesn't it fit as it should? What have I done wrong in this intricate process? The confusion is overwhelming, and even the math seems to betray me. In my pursuit of perfection, I'm left with more questions than answers.
As I embark on the journey to create a four-panel skirt with two panels in the front and two in the back, I meticulously trace my flat pattern, elongating and widening it for the desired A-line silhouette. An additional 16 inches around the bottom is achieved by widening both sides by 2 inches, employing a 90-degree angle to ensure pristine joining. The high hip to bottom transition is carefully executed, preserving the original darts and zipper placement.
With a targeted 29-inch waist, I thread-mark where the darts will be, leaving room for adjustments during the waistband installation. Ironing becomes a non-negotiable step, with a cautionary note to handle the ironing process delicately to prevent unintended fabric distortion.
In a daring experiment, I opt for cutting on the bias, grateful that I have ample material for such exploration. The grossgrain ribbon is meticulously cut to precisely 29 inches, while the front and back of the waistband are given a slightly larger dimension, a matter left to subjective judgment depending of personal skill of hand sewing and the type of material you are managing.
The intricate dance continues as the zipper is basted in place, a critical moment that determines the success of its placement. It's at this juncture that the realization hits me-this project has demanded the most extensive time investment, surpassing even the creation of a ball gown. Days of painstaking hand-sewing unfold in a montage before me, resulting in what I believe to be the pinnacle of my construction prowess. And yet, despite all this effort, the ultimate revelation is disheartening-it doesn't fit as intended.
And here lies the crux of my dilemma, for here's the most intriguing part of it all. I can vividly replay the entire process ON SCREEN. I bring receipts - the meticulous drafting, the precise tracing, the thoughtful creation of seam allowances, the careful cutting of the fabric - every step etched into film. Yet, as I scrutinize the outcome, the perplexity deepens. I find myself utterly baffled, unable to fathom how or what I did that would lead to the pattern consistently shrinking by a 1/2 of an inch throughout its entirety. It's a conundrum that resides within the very fabric of the pattern itself, leaving me bewildered and yearning for answers.
I have watched my footage. I have pulled out the scraps. I have measured and confirmed everything. I have no idea what I did.
As a solo sewist, I often find solace in the rhythmic hum of my trusty sewing machine. It's just me and the fabric, a world of possibilities unfolding beneath my fingertips. In my sewing haven, I delve into the realm of beginner sewing with an eagerness to explore the depths of garment creation. The sewing tutorial becomes my guiding light, leading me through the intricate dance of stitches and the labyrinth of sewing ideas. Hand sewing, a practice that feels almost meditative, intertwines seamlessly with the mechanical precision of the sewing machine.
The vintage charm of each piece I create tells a story of timeless elegance, a narrative spun from threads of my own making. With every DIY project, I become a fashion designer in my own right, drawing inspiration from the sewing basics I've mastered and infusing my creations with a handmade touch that sets them apart.
Today, my focus is on a couture skirt-an a-line beauty that embodies the essence of classic style. Haute couture sewing techniques become my companions in this solo venture, transforming my sewing space into a personal atelier. As I hand sew, the stitches weave together a tale of dedication and craftsmanship, forming a couture masterpiece that transcends the boundaries of easy sewing.
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In the solitude of my creative space, I am the architect of my sewing projects, a one-person sewing community thriving on the joy of bringing ideas to life. Each finished piece, be it a DIY skirt or a meticulously crafted couture creation, stands as a testament to the artistry of the solo sewist, navigating the vast landscape of sewing with passion and skill.
More Nora
patreon.com/SewVintage
Haslam Dresscutting Book of Draftings No. 7
mrsdepew.com/s...
Apparel Making in Fashion Design Student ed. Edition
amzn.to/41QhKCw
Couture Sewing: The Couture Skirt ‪@claireshaeffer7616‬ Thank You! Your books are awesome!
amzn.to/47v4tR3

[@NoraMurrell]

More Nora patreon.com/SewVintage Haslam Dresscutting Book of Draftings No. 7 mrsdepew.com/shop/ols/products/haslam-dresscutting-book-of-draftings-lingerie-no-8-1940s-vintage-sewing-pattern-e-book-with-30-patterns Apparel Making in Fashion Design Student ed. Edition amzn.to/41QhKCw Couture Sewing: The Couture Skirt amzn.to/47v4tR3

[@geereneerenee7208]

When bias stretches' it gets narrower as it lengthens. It should be hung to allow it to stretch and then refitted around. Sorry, not well stated but that is the gist of if. Do you have seam allowance to let it out?

[@Nicoya]

As soon as I saw the bias fabric I knew it. Bias fabric acts like those chinese finger traps: when it stretches in length it shrinks in girth.

[@barbaraferron7994]

I thought since bias stretches that it would come out looser like a knit. But your Chinese finger trap analogy helped me understand.

[@NoraMurrell]

This is the explanation that did it for me. Chinese finger trap. THATS how bias works. My follow up video is up and it's totally the bias.

[@AusetsStitchedTreasures]

Hi Nora! I also think it's the bias cut. Unfortunately, you can't stitch up a bias garment straight away. Before French seaming, etc. the pieces should have been basted together and left to hang overnight if possible. That allows the bias to stretch and grow. Also, sometimes up to a two inch seam allowance is created. Then the next day try on the basted garment. It probably would seem snug. This is where the two inch seam allowance comes in as you can now adjust your seams with no worry. Also pressing with steam tends to create a bit of shrinkage and French seams can add a bit of distortion. I'd like to see you try the skirt again. I know you will be successful. Just remember to let a bias garment hang overnight.

[@NoraMurrell]

I'm adding this to my sewing curriculum. I think that I have not covered bias cuts and sewing enough.

[@sewingwithjazz]

Totally unrelated to the fitting but stitching from the hem upwards towards the waist is important because of the bias cut. There is an amazing video from threads magazine talking about stay stitching which addresses that. My vintage patterns always ask for the skirts to be sewn in that direction as well

[@NoraMurrell]

ohhhhh, okay. adding this to things I need to learn.

[@sewingwithjazz]

Ok I did look it up, the article is called 'the importance of directional sewing' which is best followed up by their video on staystitching. It really does surprise me that modern sewing patterns completely ignore this important aspect. Like I said my vintage patterns from 20s to 60s include this arrow which says stitch up from here meaning from the hem upwards

[@velvetsunshine9106]

I think it may be because it was cut on the bias. If i make a circle skirt, left to hang, the hem drops at certain points. As your skirt is fitted at the top the fabric may pull in, thereby giving the problem you have. Think of a squashed square. Thanks for your videos. I'm loving learning better couture techniques from you to improve my finished garments. X

[@NoraMurrell]

Interesting!

[@AusetsStitchedTreasures]

@velvetsunshine9106 I agree!

[@beacar9977]

I watched a couple of times just to make sure i was seeing right. Did you put darts in a bias cut skirt? That's where your inch went. Bias fits the body and doesn't need (or like) darts. I been sewing for over 40 years and i still occasionally have to remind myself to omit darts when working with bias. Beautiful skirt though. Definitely try without the darts. Good luck and happy sewing.🪡

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank you! I have fallen into a research rabbit hole and I have come out armed with new understanding and knowledge! Next video is up and covers everything that I did next!

[@karinbaird2499]

Oh dear. It is the bias that is at issue. I’ve also learned about bias the hard way. It needs to hang and find its new structure. Cut a skirt with much more seam allowance and hang it for at least a day or two. The next one will be better💞

[@NoraMurrell]

I read the comments and I fell into a bias research rabbit hole. My follow up video covers everything I learned.

[@ecummins8650]

I feel your pain, dear. The bias is what did you in, as well as working in silk which is NOTORIOUSLY difficult to work with on the bias. You had the right idea to redraft your flat me pattern, but you need to do one on the bias specifically. Actually, it would be better to drape a new pattern on yourself for a bias pattern. It can be relatively easily done with a buddy pinning things for you while you give them directions. On grain patterns and bias patterns are two veeeerry different animals and need to approached completely different ways. Good luck on your next try! I have faith in you!

[@NoraMurrell]

The bias absolutely did me in. I then dove into my library and have come up with new understanding and skills. Next video is up and covers everything.

[@virginiacardinal9563]

Thank you for still making the video Nora! As I have started sewing for myself yet I have no helpful suggestions. I really appreciated you for making this and for the other viewers for commenting.

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank you! The comments to this video are gold and I learned so much. My follow up video covers all of this.

[@pmclaughlin4111]

My guess is bias and a bit of "turn of the cloth". Try cutting with extra large seam allowances. I would also not do french seams on bias-French seams are fabulous for shreddy ravelly fabric or for see through but a lot of couture garments would not "finish" the fabric edges in the bias seam (BTW: my favoite "couture" inside seam finish is a hand overcast or pinked-french seams or bound seam allowances if shreddy) Restyle the skirt-either add a yoke at the top (which would preserve the bias effect at the hem) or move the current high hip to "waist" cut off top and add panel at bottom restore length Seams as design feature

[@NoraMurrell]

Bias. The bias completely got me. My next video is up and I fix so many issues!

[@katherinek8448]

I waited 2 weeks to read the comments because I hadn’t a clue what went wrong. So thankful for knowledgeable seamstresses! Learning so much from them and you Nora!

[@NoraMurrell]

I know what I did wrong because of my amazing audience, and I explain everything here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gn6sp5WBmcageq8

[@jacquelinecranston5622]

No bias, Nora. This pattern is designed to be a skirt cut on the straight grain. The bias is not stable. It "drew up" and made itself fit smaller. NO DARTS IN BIAS!!!! EVER!!! You must shape bias so there are no darts, ie., a different pattern mustv be drafted to use a bias cut. This one won't do. Cut this skirt on the straight grain, and it will fit the way you want it to. I am sorry you didn't have a little more bias experience or you would have known. To make this skirt and put it on the bias, you can't have the waistline darts, and you have to add to the seam allowance. SO sorry this happened,

[@NoraMurrell]

100% correct and the follow up video is up!

[@moniquedawn5252]

I haven't perfected my Halsam basic skirt yet...so I don't know. Maybe try draping method? Just drap some fabric and pin to fit, adjust pattern to these pieces? ALL of your skirts look beautiful to me. Can I just admire the zipper placement and execution?? WELL DONE!!!!😍🤩🥰

[@NoraMurrell]

You can totally focus on the zipper. THAT'S what I thought this video was about! Thank You!

[@cassiehall479]

It's the bias cut, when things drop lengthwise on the bias that length has to come from somewhere so it comes from the width, this is why bias cut patters state specifically that they're cut on the bias

[@NoraMurrell]

It's a finger trap and I now understand the concept of bias. I cover all of this in my next video. Amazing comments completely gave me the answer.

[@joellewatkins5528]

I think it the amount of ease that is in the pattern vs the weave of fabric. Because you stated that the seams allowance was correct and so is the pattern.

[@NoraMurrell]

As I read the comments I am starting to think I don't understand how to work with bias. So. Yes. Ease.

[@bohemiansusan2897]

I know what the problem is. Being cut on the bias means it pulls down more. Then when combined with French seams and a hand sewn zipper, extra bulk is added to the inside. Also nubby silk doesn't give much in bias cuts. Always have a 1 inch seam allowance and see how it fits with a machine baste. If you haven't cut away the seam allowance for the French seams, then pick it apart and let it out in the problem area and resew it.

[@NoraMurrell]

You are completely correct.

[@bohemiansusan2897]

@@NoraMurrell we learn over time

[@bekytg9393]

Don't treat yourself so hard. I am self taught like yourself, I'm learning from the comments as well. What I noticed also was the colour difference in the fabric, it looked darker at the front, and lighter at the back. Reminded me of velvet, when naps point different directions. Keep going.... you can do it.

[@NoraMurrell]

The comments to this video are gold! Next video is up!

[@wendyreynolds2261]

Ok, firstly, I learned a ton from the comments about dealing with fabric cut on the bias! Secondly, I learned from you, Nora, very helpful techniques for turning in corners! I always struggle with them and they are never neat enough for me. The only thing I didn't hear you say you did was re-take your measurements. Bodies shift and change, even if weight doesn't. However, the comments from much more experienced sewist than myself seem to be a consensus - it's all about the bias.

[@NoraMurrell]

It's 100% all about the bias. I have a new video up covering the next two epic slogging weeks figuring everything out.

[@laurawilliams7782]

my sympathies with your frustration here!

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank you!

[@pinkporcupineknits]

When you were explaining at first and said "center seam" but there was only 1/2" of seam allowance, I was like THERE IT IS! But no....I agree with all the other comments. Bias. The tighter the weave of the fabric, the less bias dropping you will get, but something slippery like that silk? Yeah. That will account for the missing inch. I'm hurting with you here, though. Twice! and Silk! >OUCH!!!

[@NoraMurrell]

100% bias. I have ended up in a massive research hold after this.

[@taylorjk591]

When watching your video, you just finished cutting out your pieces and explained sewing your frt darts, frt center seam,then side seams BUT you were pointing to the wrong seams. Then you explained you were going to sew the back center, and side seams. But when you talked about the zipper you were pointing to the center back. I think you reversed your seams. Then on the ripples on the zipper. You should have interfaced the center back seam about 1” wide and the length of your zipper, where the zipper is inserted. You fabric is very lightweight. I usually interface all my zippers. Even with knit fabric.

[@NoraMurrell]

I totally was pointing at the wrong things when I was talking about how I was putting things together, but I promise I got the construction correct. I'm starting to think this is a bias cut issue.

[@KnottyProfessor]

I can see 2 plausible ways it has shrunk, 1. when you did french seams you started stitching on the 1in seam line rather than 1/2in say, thus when you turned right sides together, you accidentally ate into the fabric. (the amount of times I've done this and nearly thrown the project out the window is maddening) 2. the other option is the bias, if the fabric has no stretch, then cutting things on the bias will shrink up as it is stretched. As the bias can only stretch one way at a time, (ie, the diagonal that goes around, rather than the diagonal that goes up and down,) it tends to end up tighter and/or shorter. Both are common oversights, as we are so focused on getting it made and we know we have Xin seam allowance, we forget that different seams take more of it away, and we are so used to the fact that the bias stretches, we assume it will just stretch how we want, forgetting if the fabric has stretch or not. There might be a way of doing this skirt on the bias without loosing any size, though it might be a bit stiffer, but you could try either lightweight interfacing on all pieces, or a light knitted interfacing, which still keeps the drape of the fabric, rather than giving it a shape like normal interfacing does. If these don't give the desired look, maybe a size up on the pattern or making it too big to then take in the excess while wearing it so you get that perfect fit you want. Hope this helps and hope it doesn't deter you off too much from making similar in the future. Cant wait to see what you make next and what challenges/problems you overcome. Keep up the great work ^>^

[@NoraMurrell]

It was 100% the bias and I have a follow up video that covers this research rabbit hole

[@maryroyal5138]

Hi My two cents worth is. When you cut on the bias, the fabric will get wonky) that a technical sewing term). You need to stay stitch the important fit areas before sewing the garment together. This will stabilize the fabric and keep the fit true. Good luck.

[@NoraMurrell]

Wonky is absolutely a technical sewing term and I am surprised to not find it in all of the indexes of my sewing books. Stay stiching absolutely becomes vital when sewing on the bias. 100%.

[@Matrinka69]

I am rewatching and, yup. Your bias shrunk under the weight of the skirt. I have done exactly this, and learned that bias cuts absolutely need to hang to settle the way they hang so the fabric becomes more stable again.

[@NoraMurrell]

100% correct. My follow up video covers everything that I did wrong and everything I learned. Brilliant journey.

[@maryjanejohnson4615]

Nora, if I recall correctly from my patternmaking classes, you are not supposed to add flare to the center front seam or the center back seam. I may be wrong but it seems like I remember that.

[@NoraMurrell]

I rather agree. I got lazy and my next video corrects all of this.

[@rettaantwine5506]

I too think it’s because you cut it on the bias, make the exact same skirt again out of silk, but cut it on the straight grain using the same pattern and see what happens.

[@NoraMurrell]

I did exactly this and the result is in the next video. And yes. 100% it was the bias.

[@r-anthro]

I would take the time to hand baste your final stitch lines on your four pieces before any sewing happens. Let them hang , if on the bias, or not then carefully pin on yourself. I would take the skirt apart and see if you can modify. For instance, you can finish the raw cut edges with bias tape and then NOT use French seams and then you rescue some room to breathe!

[@NoraMurrell]

100% correct. Everything that I read after this video completely agrees with everything here.

[@sbaumgartner9848]

Trust me, I totally relate to what you go through. I've never sewn using the bias. I've watched a few of your videos and I enjoy them. There are some vintage styles that I find very classy however they can have a lot of style line detail that is not for beginners.

[@NoraMurrell]

100%. I now have made book purchases to figure this out. It feels like a challenge, and I accepted the call to adventure. My next video covers everything that happened after this skirt.

[@Exegiification]

The bias theory sounds most likely, but from watching almost all your videos I assume that You need a little bit more ease on the hip line in your front pattern than You have now 😁 I'm not an expert on skirts, and a guy, but this might help ☺️ If You like how your previous skirts fit then go for it, theres nothing wrong with that, but if You want your center front line to fall straight the additional ease will help I think. Worthy to sew a simple muslin mockup to test that, because darts may need tweaking also. The side curve in front will differ from that in the back but this should not be a problem, some figures need that. If You dont want all the hustle with mockups stick some narrow masking tape where the skirt side seams would fall and measure front and back halves separately. I hope my blabbering was helpful. Love your channel! ❤

[@NoraMurrell]

I have answers and my next video covers all of the reasons that this did not work!

[@jenniferfowler6713]

the french seams and possibly the bias cutting of the fabric. It looked like you took the full inch in the first sewing in the french seams

[@NoraMurrell]

Bias. It was the bias. I figured that and a bunch of other things out, my newest video covers it all.

[@sew_So_beautiful]

Oh my goodness! I think I just watched myself on KZbin! Albeit slimmer, younger, and prettier, but it was me! Ive had exactly the same thing happen, and reacted the same way! Now I'm going to read all the comments and see if they solve the mystery.

[@NoraMurrell]

It's the bias. My audience is so so so smart and right. Follow up video is live as of now.

[@sallyb7472]

As a habit use Petersham rather than grosgrain for the waist. Petersham stretches, grosgrain does not. In this instance I think you tried using a bias cut with a straight of grain pattern.

[@NoraMurrell]

I live in the US and I can't seem to find a source for Petersham. =S

[@stevezytveld6585]

"You sweet Summer Child". Some sayings should be kept, and this is one of them. That being said... stumped. I got nadda for this. Sending emotional-support-chocolate (esc) based thoughts your way... Maybe if you cut the pieces super wide and let them hang overnight??? - Cathy (&, accidently, Steve), Ottawa/Bytown/Pimisi

[@NoraMurrell]

You aren't wrong at all. Follow up video is up.

[@barbaraferron7994]

The skirt looks beautiful on you inspite of being too small. I would just add a strip of fabric into each side seam to save that one. And then follow the suggestions other commenters have given to make the skirt again.

[@NoraMurrell]

This is absolutely the easiest way to fix this skirt. I completely agree.

[@Sabatuar]

The only thing I can think of is something might have happened with the french seams.

[@NoraMurrell]

I even checked the scrap bin and remeasured what I trimmed to fit in the french seam.....and I measured all of the seams....it's pristine. I'm so so so confused.

[@bobguy3939]

love the new music!

[@NoraMurrell]

Me toooooo!!!! Thank You!

[@zenith3783]

I'm not certain how thick your fabric is, but I drafted a skirt recently and didn't account for the thickness of the fabric which ate up just a little too much length in seams and pleats, making the garment just a little bit too small. I'm way early on in my experience right now to say if that's your problem or not, but it's at least a good thing to check.

[@NoraMurrell]

The answer is 100% sewing on the bias using an on the grain pattern. My next video covers all of this. And YES, thickness of fabric can completely mess with a pattern.

[@leannez5127]

Cutting on Bias the fabric will stretch out of shape very easily ad using stream on silk can shrink its iron it wel with stream before you you cut it out.

[@NoraMurrell]

100% correct.

[@croitoriafaraformule]

Edit: this is a bias surprise, it should be cut at least an inch larger so the material can work its hanging shape. It also can shrink at steaming or washing.

[@NoraMurrell]

Surprise! Bias! Yes. 100% correct and my next video up covers the next 2 weeks of trying to figure out everything.

[@lesleyharris525]

Hi Nora, I don't know if this makes a difference but I watched carefully and 1 panel looked wrong, it was a front and it looked like you used it as a hip in the middle instead of the side seam,not sure if I'm explaining it well enough. Also could you reduce your seem allowance to gain a little bit more space, it's a shame cos it's just so pretty. ❤

[@NoraMurrell]

I absolutely pointed to the wrong things in the video, but I did sew it right. It's the bias. 100% it's the bias.

[@floatinglotuswomenswellness]

The bias issue is the problem. I also noticed that you were ironing rather than pressing, which can really change the fabric even when cut on straight grain and even more when cutting on bias. Your pattern is designed for on-grain cutting - when making a bias skirt (I've made dozens at the very least) the waist should have be curve which allows the bias to release. Simply put, your pattern was the wrong one.

[@NoraMurrell]

It's 13 days later, and it's 100% the bias. I have a follow up video. I learned so much from this project. Everything you said. 100%

[@pippaseaspirit4415]

I’m not sure, but you may have sewn the first run of your French seams on the final stitch line instead of a quarter inch outside it. Really not 100% sure as the line wasn’t easy to see.

[@NoraMurrell]

I am very sure the seams are right. I think I have no idea how bias cuts work. Yet. I'm adding this to the things I need to work on and learn.

[@michellecornum5856]

Yeah, it was the bias that got you. That's why, when Madeleine Vionnet started making bias cut gowns, it was considered a feat of engineering. Very unforgiving. And even a good bias pattern has to be cut generously because different fabrics will just stretch and waste away all your width.

[@NoraMurrell]

I now own two books on Madeleine Vionnet and have fallen into a research rabbit hole.

[@annesullivan1171]

Bias does behave differently 😒

[@NoraMurrell]

understatement. It's absolutely wild.

[@nadinewoods6971]

Congratulations on sewing such a beautiful skirt. I'm so sorry it didn't fit. As others have said bias garments hang differently and require more width to accommodate the bias cut. And I don't want to discourage you but I have found that different types of fabrics react differently to bias so on any bias garment I would baste (machine baste or hand baste) in the side seams and try on before sewing the seam permanently. Also, whenever I have added flare to a skirt, I generally rotate out the dart before adding any extra flare. You basically cut the pattern from the tip of the dart down to the hem (with the grain); then you meet the dart edges together (thereby eliminating the dart) and this will add width to the bottom of the skirt. There must be tons of videos on how to do this. Even though this one is not in English the illustrations are self-explanatory: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gmWuaGijgdJosNE Depending on the style you want, you may want to add more flare, but this creates a nice starting point. Flare is generally not added to the side, but actually added by cutting from the hem to the waist to distribute the flare over the width of the skirt instead of the flare hanging from the center front or side. You did such beautiful work, I hope you don't get too discouraged. You learned a lot in the process and now you know you are capable of creating such a beautiful garment.

[@NoraMurrell]

Thank You! 😊

[@mysettingsmysettings2997]

Its the bias that created this problem for you.plus darts on a bias no bueno

[@Avotts]

try pulling the front of the skirt uo 1.5 inches. You have a tummy that is not being accomodated.