What grade is this? New holds on the home climbing wall.

Рет қаралды 783

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 14

@SendStory 2 жыл бұрын

This was supposed to just be a vloggy type home wall sesh and turned into hours of throwing myself at the same problem instead, haha. Obviously it is impossible to truly grade something without trying it yourself, but it was pretty tricky for me and featured a bunch of my weaknesses, so I think it was up there. What do you think?

@thisiseric 2 жыл бұрын

Lol I was literally just thinking, "Hey he added new stuff to the wall build" and then you were like, "Eagle-eyed viewers will see that the wall has changed." and I patted myself on the back. I recently tried to do some V0s/V1s with no climbing shoes like you were warming up and I couldn't do it! It hurts so much more than I thought it would on anything more than a completely full foothold! I gotta work on my ballerina toe strength I guess :P Last thing I'll say since I can't grade hard climbs as I have never climbed that hard of a problem... is that your core strength is insane considering what happened to you last year and your injury recovery process. Those crappy holds on that level of overhang is wild. Your training is working wonders!

@SendStory 2 жыл бұрын

Thanks sir! Laura is sometimes like, "why are you pointing out x, no one would notice if you didn't point it out." ... and I'm like "you don't know the internet." haha. Also, regarding shoes, sometimes the overhang makes it easier on the feet because you end up loading so much more weight into your hands!

@RealWorldClimbing 2 жыл бұрын

So hard to grade with eyes only. But with a 45 degree overhang and small crimps and body tension requirements... I'll guess something in the V7 range. I could be WAY off though because crimps are one of my strengths and it doesn't appear too reachy. Might be harder though! Add a grade or two for the "Humid as Balls" and a grade for not grunting/yelling and waking up your neighbors.

@RealWorldClimbing 2 жыл бұрын

Maybe Moonboard V7, which is like commercial gym V9 :D

@SendStory 2 жыл бұрын

I'm pretty lanky, so the last move is quite morpho and while the toe hook would be much easier if you were shorter/had shorter legs, the max extension pinch would be very difficult, so it's a bit of a trade off. I feel like the middle section would be much easier if you were shorter, but the undercling section and top would be harder. It's funny, sometimes I can flash or get v7s in 2 goes in the gym but not even do v4s in the same gym/with the same setters. It's gym agnostic too, happens all over. Haha, grades are just so arbitrary and affected by styles and body types. And yes, I find moonboard problems consistently harder than gym set problems of the same grades (usually), heck, even actual outdoor problems, lol. Idefinitely have an appreciation for the difficulty of your moonboard with polished holds! Thanks for the comment as always!