What Happens When The Crankcase Breather Goes Bad? Symptoms and Solution

[@bathanmark]

I experience a RPM goes up as you drive but the A/T transmission connection feels like it's not there as the odometer drops to zero. This is during running. To make it run, is by waiting alight and driving again

[@DespairRepair]

Hi and thanks for watching! Sorry, I didn't get what the problem is about. Also, what car is it?

[@bathanmark]

@@DespairRepair thank you for replying. Ah it's a different make, it's a Jeep Renegade 2015 A/T, got 25K in the odometer. But every now and then I get issues where rpm goes all the way up like 4000-6000 but doesn't accelerate, this happens during running condition not when coming from stop. It happens like 2-6 times a month. The only thing I do is I slow down and wait rpm goes down and starts it again. Good thing it's not happening in the free-way. I really dont know what's causing it. Just wondering if you encountered something like it or heard of? Thank you

[@DespairRepair]

@@bathanmark to be honest I haven't. It could be a dozen things so best connect a diagnostic tool and try getting a code. I could tell you that the automatic transmission on those cars is not known for its reliability and that your car is essentially a Fiat which makes good cars but most of them have a mind of their own. I've driven one so I can speak from experience. Not bad-mouthing anybody, just personal experience. So, again best get an error code and start from that. Also, check the wire harnesses or electric connections to the transmission if you can, just in case. Hope this helps and hope you don't mind the long comment.

[@bathanmark]

@@DespairRepair i appreciate the reply. The longer the better. I will get a code reader first. I dont have a check engine light, so it will still show some error code eve so? Thank you for the advice.

[@0x0skinz0x0]

Such a detailed and well explained video, I think I have the same problem on my corsa.

[@DespairRepair]

Hi, thanks for watching and for the nice words. Hope the video helps 🙂

[@luaikadoura3152]

I have a crank case hose, which gets damaged “ it splits apart” every time I change it, on a PG 107. What could the problem be?

[@riosupescu]

Excelent. Clear and very documented. Thanks a lot!

[@DespairRepair]

You're welcome, thanks for watching and for the kind words! :-)

[@JoeSmith-cl7lw]

Very helpful man listen to him.

[@iro-huncarguy8367]

I'm doing it on my car as well (Seat Altea Xl 1.4 BXW engine). Doing a video on it. Nobody really did a video on how to remove it. This did help though and was very informative.

[@DespairRepair]

Hi and thanks for watching! Sorry for the late response, I think a video would be great, if you find the time to send a link and share :-)

[@iro-huncarguy8367]

@@DespairRepair i filmed it. I will send a link here for it.

[@DespairRepair]

@@iro-huncarguy8367 Ok thanks and congratulations for the video

[@iro-huncarguy8367]

@Mo bear kzbin.info/www/bejne/mXOon2eHnsh7n6M

[@emilebichelberger7590]

I haven’t seen a pic valve with a sensor, I assume it picks up the air flow or pressure/vacuum. Were you lucky enough to get A fault code for the breather system?

[@luky7080]

Hello, my previous message was blocked probably because I posted the picture of the leak. Anyway I am having the same exact leak on my 2005 polo 1.4 75HP, BKY engine model, and a very rough idle when cold, when warm the idle is almost stable but randomly is very bouncy for no reason. Sometimes even stalls, the rpm fluctuates between 500rpm and 800, then tries to accelerate and bounces up and down. It's worse and more noticeable when I'm revving up the engine at neutral, which triggers this behaviour. also, especially when revving up just a little, the rpm goes down from 700 to 550, then goes up to 750 when it should at least go to 900, and It's a nightmare when I am at stop lights I always try to keep the engine alive by accelerating to 1k rpm when it starts to bounce, otherwise I'm sure it will stall soon. It's happening ever since I got this car 3 years ago, at 160.000km, now has 197.000km and now it's worse. I have basically replaced everything. No engine lights comes out. Replaced Ignition coils, spark plugs, pressure manifold sensor, water temperature sensor, crankshaft and camshaft sensor, b1s1 oxygen sensor, cleaned the butterfly valve, the only noticeable change was replacing the crankshaft sensor so at low engine speeds has a little bit of more power. No issues after 2k rpm it's perfectly normal. After seeing your video I tore apart the PCV valve and gave it a clean with air and wd-40, it was very very clogged and dirty but I think I broke the little metal piece which is inside the bigger hole of that valve. Anyway since the o-rings were a bit worn taped with some teflon. When I put everything back I have noticed no difference, the idle is still bouncy but anyway I ordered a new one just because it's leaking and I broke the metal piece inside. I am not entirely sure what to do at this point, I have not checked the timing, maybe it's a bit off? Still, I am having issues only at idle. The rough cold start only started to happen since 6 months ago. It's a decent car but It's become frustrating to have this stupid issues, I can't find vacuum leaks but looks to me it's running very very lean judging by the spark plug color. I have also noticed a lot of water or fuel idk, which comes out from the exaust after doing this tests while warming up the engine (the bouncy idle, etc..) Also, what about the upper breather which is on over the camshaft housing? I am thinking to try to replace it too. Anyway, thank you for your guidance

[@DespairRepair]

Hi, thanks for watching and for the detailed explanation! Did you connect an OBD tool, did you get any error codes? Good thing you're going to replace the PCV valve, best do it to avoid future problems. In my opinion, you've done all the important things. All that I can say is that this is typical for a temp. sensor failure and a dirty throttle body. Also, have you replaced the fuel filter?

[@luky7080]

@@DespairRepair Hi, thank you for you answer. Yes, I do not have any error codes stored, anyway I do not have replaced the fuel filter, I'm running on LPG and I'm doubting that's the issue because every time I start the car after resetting the auto adaptation parameters from VCDS the issue disappears. At least the bouncy idle when cold, because I noticed it runs slighty worse at petrol after running LPG. It eventually becomes normal using petrol only, still, not for the bad idle.

[@DespairRepair]

@@luky7080 hmmm to be honest that will probably be a tough one to solve. Please don't take this as patronizing and you've probably already done this, but have you recently checked and serviced the LPG system (filter + complete system check)? These systems are, in most cases, very good but are known for causing similar problems like yours, especially if the car has high mileage.

[@jman6214]

what was the code or codes related to your check engine light?

[@butros5137]

svaka ti cast na videu dobro pricas na engleskom

[@DespairRepair]

Hvala na komentaru i sto si gledao, nadam se da je pomoglo :-)

[@butros5137]

@@DespairRepair da super su vam je sadržaj samo nastavite tako

[@DespairRepair]

@@butros5137 hvala puno, hocemo :-)

[@horiraniera9649]

Thank you, very informative👍

[@aleki_2.4t61]

Hi, i have a 89 accord here and it has 101k miles on it, recently I put a brand new PCv valve in and in the beginning it ran fine but just recently it blew a part of the oil pan gasket and spewed oil all over the place. It actually 1 of the symptoms which is barely any power a acceleration. Any thoughts about why this is happening? Thanks

[@DespairRepair]

Hi and thanks for watching! The first thing that comes to mind is either a faulty PCV valve or you didn't install it properly. Both of these are unlikely. The gases don't flow properly causing a build-up of pressure and this caused the oil spill. I haven't had much experience around Honda's is there any filter for the gases perhaps?

[@aleki_2.4t61]

@@DespairRepair I'm not sure right now about that but I'm gonna go and inspect the crankcase ventilation system today and gonna see if anything blocked. thx

[@DespairRepair]

@@aleki_2.4t61 you're welcome and hope you solve the problem. Also, try checking the tubes for clogs. The ones that are connected to the breather.

[@Dan-jl5ej]

The same issues on a Polo 1.4 FSI. The question is: Why is everyone so "excited" about the German engineering?! My first and my last VW! Next time I will buy a French car which is less complicated and prone to failures that are very hard to identify even by VW dealers!

[@DespairRepair]

Hi and thanks for watching! To be honest I wouldn't put any blame on German engineering but rather on where the whole auto industry is going. More demands mean more complications and thus more problems. It's pretty much the same with other manufacturers also if you've noticed.

[@jobeblogs4539]

Will this job require me to remove the oil from the car? I'm hoping not to drain but to place on front ramps only.

[@DespairRepair]

Hi and thanks for watching! No, you don't have to drain the oil. Only a small amount of oil should leak out

[@HatBoyHarvey]

Great video, thanks for your shared detailed knowledge on this fault:-)

[@DespairRepair]

Hi HatBoyHarvey, thanks for watching and for the nice comment! Means a lot coming from a pro and from someone that has such a good channel.

[@jaspercoleman3832]

Thank you for the information

[@DespairRepair]

@@jaspercoleman3832 you're welcome and hope it helps, thanks for watching!

[@giannislespaul]

Maybe you could tell me if any leaks are going to appear replacing this breather? I mean during the process of replacing it.

[@DespairRepair]

Hi and thanks for watching! As far as I know, only minor drips of oil appear as the breather is well above the oil sump level. Once you replace it, just wipe off the oil that dripped and that's it.

[@giannislespaul]

@@DespairRepair thanks a lot. Keep up the good work!

[@DespairRepair]

@@giannislespaul you're welcome, and will do! 🙂 All the best to you.

[@BallistikaGames]

My breather is trash, we got a replacement but haven't changed it yet. Now my car will start but instantly stalls out, I've never had this happen before, I've had it stall before but never instantly after start. Can the breather cause this.

[@DespairRepair]

Hi and thanks for watching! Possible. Does the check engine light come up? Are there any more symptoms besides this? As you've seen in the video, with my Skoda, all the warning lights came up before beginning to seriously stall.

[@BallistikaGames]

@@DespairRepair the immobilizer was tripped because of my key fob and no matter what I do or try it will not reconnect, I've lost my job, which is an hour away and life seems like shit rn. All cause I replaced a disgusting fob shell that was falling apart. And yes but the engine light has been staying on because my dad never turned it off after we replaced the oil cover gasket and oil/oil filter. All the codes for fuel regulator/fuel pressure and air pressure are cause the immobilizer has disabled those instruments so the car won't stay on as an anti theft precaution

[@ignetious5637]

Hi I have a pd100 rpm stays on 1000rpm I changed coolant temperature sensor, fuel temperature sensor, my rocker cover is leaking badly could it be the course?

[@DespairRepair]

Hi and thanks for watching! Sorry, I didn't quite understand the question. But from what I did, I would first check what's causing the big rocker cover leak (it's oil leaking I presume). Either the cover is faulty or excessive oil pressure is building up within the engine. This might be the cause of higher rpms. Not much of an explanation but hope it helps at least a bit.

[@theBamaJammer617]

Excellent video.

[@DespairRepair]

Thank you Ray for the nice comment and for watching! :-)

[@beks454]

Imam jedan proglem sa škoda fabia 2006 sa onim postojem za flasu ili čašu puklo je i kako ću ga izvući

[@DespairRepair]

Pozdravljam i izvini na kasnom odgovoru. Nisam imao susret s tim ali da jesam, rastavio bi centralni konzolu (gdje je radio/cd i komande ventilacije i klime). U svakom slucaju bi izvukao radio i krenuo odatle. Cini mi se da je drzac dio za sebe koji moze da se mijenja. Nije neka pomoc i vjerovatno si rijesio problem dosada. Hvala na komentaru i na gledanju videa!

[@xkhan20]

i just bought an 2011audi a4 the hose wasn’t connected and it was closed. do i put it back on?

[@DespairRepair]

Hi and thanks for watching! There is a good chance that it was done on purpose. Probably because of oily fumes. If I was in your place, I would leave it, especially if it doesn't cause any problems. Hope this helps.

[@MELLtheLEGEND]

Great video

[@DespairRepair]

Thank you for watching!

[@lisatovar9256]

Thanks- makes sense!

[@DespairRepair]

You're welcome and thanks for watching!

[@adambennett805]

Hm. I have these symptoms on a 2003 Polo and my car also jolts and bucks? Do you think it's possible?

[@DespairRepair]

Hi Adam and thanks for watching! What type of engine is on the Polo?

[@adambennett805]

@@DespairRepair 1.4 16v, same as your Skoda

[@DespairRepair]

@@adambennett805 it can certainly can be. You've seen my experience from the video. In my case, there was previously an oil leak coming from the crankcase breather so maybe you can check that first. Also there was the check engine light

[@adambennett805]

@@DespairRepair yes I also have a leak and check engine light and EPC light

[@DespairRepair]

@@adambennett805 then I would recommend changing the crankcase breather. At least that's what solved my problem definitely. Seems to be a common problem with those engines.

[@ruimvp]

Thank you.

[@DespairRepair]

You're welcome and thanks for watching!

[@mxolisidumakude5724]

Where can i get this. I am in South africa

[@DespairRepair]

Hi and thanks for watching! Get what?

[@scottykilmer1094]

crappy Volkswagen engines, they all clogg up or fall apart. 🤣

[@DespairRepair]

Hi and thanks for watching! Not all, to be honest, the engines in Skoda's, at least from this generation are pretty good and long-lasting!