What is Push-Processing? What is Pull-Processing? How does it work? And why would we do it?

#analogphotography #film #filmphotography #filmdeveloping #photography #blackandwhite #blackandwhitephotography
If you've ever wondered about push-processing or pull-processing your film, this episode will, hopefully, provide some insight on what it is and how it works. And it should give you a basic understanding of it, so you'll know what you can expect from the techniques.
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[@311djr]

Another great video, Mr. V. This is probably the best logical and understandable explanation of 'push/pull' that I ever seen (or read). You explain things very well. And I always enjoy your creative take on things also. Whenever I can learn and do something new, that I am personally proud of, I feel that I am taking the next step up the ladder on my photographic journey. A follow-up to push/pull might be N+ and N- processing? Please keep these types of videos going. I really enjoy them.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thank you very much! I really appreciate that!

[@andyvan5692]

at 12:35 this is also bolstered by the LF shooters saying, which says "expose for the shadows (that you want to have detail in), and develop for the highlights". aka use the multi-grade filters on the enlarger to control over exposure.

[@vintagecameradigest]

You are correct. It’s all related, and everything comes down to shadow detail and desired contrast. And the Zone System is doing the same thing.

[@davidgambin2551]

You’re great explaining things. Excellent video as usual!

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thank you!

[@MarcoRoepers]

Very clear explanation. Now I understand. Thank you.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Great to hear! And thanks!

[@arbytsplatz]

Thank you for the effort you put into your videos. Always a pleasure to watch.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thanks so much!

[@kevinthephotographer9346]

A very clear and comprehensive explanation. I'm off now to buy a Datacolor grey card.

[@vintagecameradigest]

:-)) The one I have also has the color-checker chart on the other side. I use it all the time to color correct video. One of the best purchases I’ve ever made. Thanks for watching!

[@kevinthephotographer9346]

@@vintagecameradigestthat’s the one I have ordered

[@mikehill6789]

The VERY best explanation I’ve seen on the subject. You got a new subscriber 👍

[@vintagecameradigest]

Awesome, thank you!

[@pdp11]

Excellent, as usual!

[@vintagecameradigest]

Many thanks!

[@jeta1383]

Really enjoying all the content you're posting. Thank you. I'm wondering if you may consider doing a video discussing what publications/manuals/literature you default to for all things B&W film (processing and developing)?

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thanks for watching! My go-to source(s) for all things B&W processing these days are two apps: FilmDevelop Pro and MassiveDevChart. The latter also has a wealth of info on their website. You can find info on just about any combination of film/dev out there. And it’s all in one place. Prior to this, I’d just pull the info from the manufacturer’s website. But these apps are indispensable. They aren’t free, but WELL worth the slight cost.

[@jllanesphoto]

Very well explained. Thank you so much! Scan the negatives.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thank you!

[@thesilverdarkroom]

Excellent video. Info is well presented and factual. Good job.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Many thanks!

[@russellyoung2852]

The graphics at 15 minutes are brilliant. And, as always, well explained - max info min words. You covered a tremendous amount of territory. Is that a Signet 35 at the base of the lamp?

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thank you, sir! And, yes, that is an old Signet. Inoperable, unfortunately. But a nice piece of decor :-))

[@randallstewart1224]

Very nicely explained.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Thanks!

[@DynoosHD]

Thanks for sharing the viewer images

[@vintagecameradigest]

My pleasure! I love seeing them, and I’m all about “creating”.

[@ruudmaas2480]

Thanks for sharing !!

[@vintagecameradigest]

My pleasure!!

[@tomislavmiletic_]

Back in the day while working as a professional on film, I've developed a ton of films in push process, mostly for shooting sports at night or indoors. I never liked results out of those, but the job had to be done. These days whenever I'm shooting indoors, even while using digital cameras, I'll use lenses with maximal aperture of f/2. Course every stop if ISO less and/or every stop of faster shutter speed counts. On density: back in the day, for the first time, I've made a shot that was important to me, but it was at least 3 stops overexposed. These days, with scanning, that shot would be gone. But if you use analog process, given enough light to the photographic paper and getting right gradation will do the trick... It's been a long time since I've used developer in stick solution; somehow, I always miss the calculation for further development and end up mostly with underdeveloped negatives. 1+1 or 1+3 (Ilford) and I'm happy. Can't wait for that A2 episode duh...

[@vintagecameradigest]

I have similar feelings about my results when pushing film. Never was impressed but it had to be done. But I could look at other peoples’ photos that were pushed and think “hey, I like that”. I used to use a lot of TMax 3200 in basketball and football games. Wasn’t a big fan of that either because of the grain. But if I ever used it on subjects for “creative effect” - I sorta liked it. Go figure.

[@tomislavmiletic_]

@ See there's that difference agin... Back in the day, Kodak was almost unobtainable in my country, and Fuji was not far off... SE Europe was ruled by Agfa. But in relations to B&W, since mid 80's Ilford managed to peek thru, so I've shot a noumber of Ilford's Delta 3200 rolls. But not as much as HP5's pushed to 1600, course honestly the grain in that combo was way less pronounced...

[@drkopkaish2617]

Very useful video! I was thinking how I need to shoot Fomapan 400. Shooting on 800-1600 with normal developing or in nominal speed. Even though the official instructions say that it can be developed without any time change if it was shooted on 200-1600 iso.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Those instructions sound a bit optimistic - especially in regard to 1600. And especially with Fomapan. For me, Fomapan seems to provide me the best results by rating it one stop lower than box speed. My recommendation would definitely be to push process if you rate it at 1600. Rated at 200, though, I think the normal dev time would be perfect.

[@IceBergs]

Can't wait for the Bolsey video. Fun to use but I always mess the shutter speed up by clipping the pin with my finger 😂

[@vintagecameradigest]

I’ll have to be careful about that. I appreciate the insight and warning!

[@ianhand5006]

I’m hoping to visit the Ilford factory one day. It’s only about 30 miles away.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Man, I’d love to do that!

[@andyvan5692]

nice explanation but another thing, its called push and pull so the lab processing this roll knows you INTENDED to over or under expose!, so DOESN'T exposure correct, or use the 'traditional' developing process, some films (HP5+ for eg) need a different solution and time to get the best results, or, if by chance you push too far, like asa 400 exposed at 200 or less, this can't be handled by Ilfosol 3 it needs another developer (Perceptol from memory) to do the business and get a good image out of it.

[@vintagecameradigest]

Absolutely. If you’re not doing your own processing, this can cause big headaches!