What Is the Best Way to Secure and Shield Cables on My Boat?

"Hi Jeff", writes Jonathan, "I was wondering if you could do a talk on the correct way of securing and shielding cables as you run them through a boat? Do you use a braided cover or PVC split conduit? Do you use zip ties or other fasteners? I can imagine chafe due to vibration might be a concern if you get it wrong. I've heard of a case where the sharp edge of flexible split conduit has chafed through the insulation of wiring."
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[@glennbrown6170]

Interesting subject. A few things you should have mentioned though: You should talk about how and why to leave a "drip loop" when water can come in contact with any wiring. Also, you neglected to mention what I consider the best current method for securing wiring bundles, which is, Velcro loops instead of, or in addition to cable ties. Also, did you know there are two kinds of cable ties? Plastic (cheaper) and nylon. Nylon is far superior over time and does not become hard and brittle like the plastic ones. Also, you did not talk at all about how to secure wires or wiring bundles to interior surfaces. Tape, adhesive, screws....how? That is just as important as any of the rest of this discussion, and in some way, the most important thing!

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Hi Glenn, didn't know about plastic vs nylon cable ties. Totally agree on velcro straps. Good point on drip loops... so important.

[@ThatGuy-dj3qr]

When I bought my 40 year old boat the wiring was nicely bundled using zip ties. That worked quite well until I had to start chasing down problems and find out where individual wires went. In the process of rewiring my boat I went with plastic raceways. They do an excellent job of containing and protecting the wires, allowing entry or exit anywhere down their length. Then when you have to chase a particular wire to find out where it's coming from or going to, it's much easier to pull it out from the other wires and do your detective work.

[@glennbrown6170]

One more thing to add to my earlier comment: You did not mention type of wire/cable makes a huge difference as well. People should install the best wire quality they can afford, period. Oversizing is a good practice where it is practical and makes sense. Color coding is also smart as is labeling (and labels at multiple locations, not just one end or the other).

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks for sharing Glenn, good pointers.

[@moriver3857]

In my aviation background, bundles are a necesity, unfortunately makes troubleshooting harder. In my boat, I avoid big bundles. One way to keep bundles manageable, is to build them smaller, cut several small pieces of any suitable size hose, place the pieces of hose in between each bundle, (repeat "spacers" as needed) loop a tye wrap around the bundles going in and out of the piece of hose, and outside the bundle, and when done, the bundles would be spaced out, immune to vibration chafe, and much easier to troubleshoot. As for tye wraps, avoid the cheap ones with mental locking tabs, and special cutters exist that cut them smooth with no sharp edges. Use a small file if sharp edges remain. Great subject, and video.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks Mo for sharing real world experience.

[@ronniekotler9265]

Everything I know about Marine Electronics I have learn from you!😀 thanks for the video

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Glad you like them!

[@braithmiller]

Some may not like it, set it out anyway. In larger working looms I use poly plumbing hanging tape used like a P loop with one screw. Allowing maximum support while keeping the bundle from being restricted. Makes for ease in additions, as I regularly am still doing. Inspection is far faster, not a single zip tie used. Friction or pvc quality tape in just isolated collars is the old way and I feel superior to zip ties. Rolls of velcro for non engine areas are good. Though I dislike it if there is any possibility of it ever picking up oils. Already an increased fire hazard item. The GGR race electrical fire prompted me to write this. I see zip tied bundles in commercial and residential breaker boxes turning into fires. It is a popular trend in electrical media posts. If I find them they are immediately removed. Occasionally the tension is tight enough to when wires heat from constriction the tie digs in. On boats and vehicles the wire insulation is deformed and thined out. Sometimes a pretty run is actually dangerous. There is a difference between no chafe and creating a dangerous situation. Just want to stress that. Thanks Jeff for doing these.

[@robertduncan4612]

Another excellent presentation, Jeff. With A/C and D/C "higher" voltage/current wiring placed along side (and likely bundled with)" lower" voltage data cables, what other steps do you recommend so as to counter magnetic field "hysteresis", or "cross-talk"?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Avoid running parallel if possible, but that's easier said then done.

[@HouseOfBane79]

If you absolutely have to run data and power of any voltage in parallel, using shielded cable that is properly grounded on one end only can help a lot. (Note: the shield has a separate conductor usually bare wire that touches the thin metallic shield wrapped around the main conductors. This is used to absorb induction by giving the induced voltage a low impedance path to ground. So make sure you are still using your grounding conductor properly in all required places.)

[@leolambert5676]

Jeff have you used velcro cable straps?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Yep, especially for wire bundles that keep changing.

[@LarryRichelli]

I have got a 4 AWG wire going through a 2" hole in wood. I am not sure how to secure it in the middle of the whole. Any help please.

[@svlonestar7645]

Cable tray for boat electric.. yes, they exist.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Good one.

[@AN-kg4ei]

would love to see a link or application. Sounds great above bilge area!

[@OzzeyfromVek]

So how do you cut the zip tie so that it doesn't get you later?

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Good one!

[@danpease8395]

Am I right that if you run a wire overhead in an engine space that you must use metal wire holders, like insulated stainless steel cable clamps.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Don't remember that one, although makes a lot of sense... especially in the unlucky event of an engine room fire.

[@EricEversonArtAndDesign]

When installing zip-ties, I recommend grabbing the tail at the base with pliers and twist it off rather than cutting it off. It won't be so sharp and dangerous.

[@blueskies8834]

Ancor makes a tool for cutting zip ties that does it cleanly and you can dial in the tension of the tie.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks for sharing... good advice.

[@Nixontheman]

👍

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Thanks Nixon.

[@Art-jw8ho]

Hi Jeff. How do you support wires that are in long “blind” areas. My batteries are at the rear of my cuddly cabin and to get wires to the front I have to pull them up through the sides of the gunwales. About 6 feet is completely inaccessible and the wires are laying loose

[@TheFearOfLegends]

just a thought, you could try to disconnect those wires, and use a large diameter PVC tube and slide that over the loose cables from where you have some sort of access to the ends of those cables. this ofcourse assumes that the wires are actually fully loose, and not attached to anything.

[@Art-jw8ho]

@@TheFearOfLegends I could detach all the cables but there’s absolutely no access to put a piece of pvc that long in unfortunately

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Good input Jen, i've done similar on my boat.

[@howcroft22]

Do they make any videos that actually show anything, or just all someone talking?

[@SkyPilot54]

As a long time electrical contractor, 12v heats up the wire and is a serious issue

[@PacificYachtSystems]

Yep, good point.

[@drheaddamage]

Oh, and remove old, unused wiring. It'll really help troubleshooting later on.

[@PacificYachtSystems]

most definitely.