What's going on with my X-MAXX? Part 2, Still having gearing issues! testing 18/54 20/50 pinion/spur

[@kennethdejesus5878]

I had that same issue with the xrt but i replaced the bulk head and the motor mounts to aluminum and HR spur gears and since then been good

[@nicklashokanson1515]

1.) Check "PIN" setting locations, 2.) Replace Rear Chassis 3.) Buy a Aluminum "Pinion Cover"....If that don't work contact "Traxxas" and send it back to them to figure the problem out....Their pretty "Good" about it!!!! If they won't claim the "Lemon Law" and have them replace the X-maxx or at least the parts!!!! BEST I can suggest at this point!!!

[@inspiredrc]

Thx buddy for your suggestions. I have a series of things im gona try. I do have a rear bulkhead and replacement spur gear inc cush drive and bearings. I personally think there's an issue with the spur side....if i can't get it sorted after changing these parts then I will have to get intouch with traxxas.

[@BarstoneRC]

That’s unfortunate man, something definitely does not sound right it either sounds like something is very tight or binding but it doesn’t sound normal at all.

[@inspiredrc]

Yeah bars. This thing is doing my nut in. I have now changed some parts. Im determined to get to the bottom of this problem. Wat gears you running?

[@BarstoneRC]

@@inspiredrc I got the 20/50 in mine.

[@inspiredrc]

@@BarstoneRC I've gone for the same. What make are your gears?

[@07liftedAV]

On that last run everything sounded fine until the first backflip that you barely made, I think you are landing the truck will still pretty heavy on the throttle causing then to strip. Either that or something is worn or cracked andmallowing too much flex somewhere near the motor/gears. Check motor bearings?

[@inspiredrc]

Hi pal. I have managed to fix it now but the problem was weak gears and the geometry in the rear was out causing the mesh not to be right. If you get a chance check the rest of the stripping gears vids. I show how I managed to resolve and how long its lasted since.🙂

[@clairecooper3848]

I’m wondering if it’s endfloat on the motor shaft 🤷‍♀️ First 😁

[@inspiredrc]

I don't think there is any play in the motor shaft. I will check it when I get it on the bench next.

[@frfrank5862]

Traxxas doesn't recommend using 20pinion/50spur for on hard surfaces according to the X-Maxx manual🤔

[@inspiredrc]

Hi buddy. Yes I am aware but tbh if you upgrade the pinion and spur to harden steel ones the should be fine. I've been running 20/50 18/47 and even 20/47 in mine over the years without any issues. I think I hit thermal a couple of times on hot summers days only. Unfortunately traxxas esc is underpowered. To really get the best out of your rig you should consider upgrading to a max 6 or equivalent.

[@kennethdejesus5878]

Another thing I’ve noticed is you are landing on power that could also be why ur stripping them

[@inspiredrc]

At the time yes but after installing some harden gears and some other bits it's now perfect.

[@Sheldinator]

Your bearing off of your spur wasnt set correctly. The spur seemed sideways.when you shown the damage. In addition, there is never a scenerio where you wanna bee driving the xmaxx without the sour cover on. Because the water grass and rocks will ruin your entire gearing system and rust your motor ending up with everything getting jammed up

[@inspiredrc]

Thx for the tips buddy. Yeah its working fine now but I suspect it was the spur bearing seizing up a little. Something I've learnt over the months is xmaxx and water don't mix. I try to avoid running in puddles now. Spur cover is super important to have. The metals ones are even better to install. It keeps the spur alinged better. Less change of slipping.

[@FullClipKilla]

Presume you're using thread lock on the pinion grub screw?

[@inspiredrc]

Yes

[@FullClipKilla]

I have the exact same model, first thing I did before I ran it and no issues yet....still on the stock pinion and spur. Not given too much of a hard time yet though!

[@inspiredrc]

@@FullClipKilla yeah I was running all stock for the first 8 months without any issues. I wanted more wheel speed when jumping so I decided to upgrade the spur and then the problems started....

[@martinbullla7654]

My Traxxas Hoss has a weird problem it's not stripping gears but it killed the bearings in the motor and it killed the bearings for the spur because the spur was out of round Traxxas sent me a new spur and new rear control arms because those were stripped right out of the box the screw was hanging out and front bearing carriers because those had stripped screws to when I found out that the motor bearings were bad I called them back and they wouldn't send me bearings for it so I'm kind of upset and the servo we're screwed up from the get-go so I bought a metal one I mean that's ridiculous

[@inspiredrc]

Sorry to hear that buddy. Traxxas stock bearings aren't very good. I tend to change them out for rubber sealed so I can run in moist environments. It's not acceptable for the motor to fail bro. I would persevere and try to get a replacement motor.

[@martinbullla7654]

@@inspiredrc they basically told me to send the motor in that all they're really going to do is change the bearings so I bought a bearing kit was $13 but yeah they should have sent me a new motor especially knowing that's what was causing the problem and that I was still having a clicking like they should have known that all those bearings and the motor we're bad but that's just how it goes I guess they'll send you the cheap shit but once you tell them something expensive broke its on you

[@inspiredrc]

Unfortunately this is usually the case when you deal with the big boys. I don't rate traxxas customer service. Like you I just fix it myself. However on the other hand arrma gives 2 yrs warranty with all their stuff. Which is worth the paper its written on! They have always sorted any issue I've had straight away to my statisfaction. 👌

[@davehughes2687]

What are your thoughts on the 1.5 mod gears???..

[@inspiredrc]

For the stock system I don't think mod 1.5 is required. Traxxas designed drive train to use mod1. Mod 1.5 may mean you won't be able to use the pin system. For me the pin system has worked well. Try gds mod 1 spur and pinion first before you goto mod1.5.

[@davehughes2687]

@@inspiredrc thank you bud!!..

[@TheKjelmo]

To me, your truck sounds terrible all the time. I think you heard some of it at 1:58, at least. Maybe go back to an older video for comparison... I feel pretty confident that your drivetrain is binding, probably around the spur/center diff area. Could be overtightened gear covers or that something is jammed in there, but I guess you open it all up when breaking the gears to clean the broken teeth out?

[@inspiredrc]

I have checked the drive train. I am able to spin the wheels using my little finger when the pinion if off. It spinning very easily. I will show the drivetrain spinning in my next vid. Ive not been using the pinion debris cover so it may sound louder than normal. I do feel the geometry between the pinion and spur is not right. This is what I will be working on next. Any advise would be appreciated...I intend to change the compete spur and cover and also have a rear bulk head available if needed....

[@TheKjelmo]

@@inspiredrc Try taking the wheels off and spin one of the rear axles (noth both). The entire drivetrain should roll freely with no resistance. If it's overtightened, then the spur gear will stop moving some times as well as the front axles. The spur gear itself will also feel very tight if you rotate it. If it checks out, then I don't really know. But that terrible sound has to come from somewhere... does the spur gear have wobble? Or does the pinion wobble? Is the gear mesh good all the way around? There are many points of contact to check.

[@inspiredrc]

@@TheKjelmo I will check all these things. The spur does move slightly forward and backwards I noticed when I've been testing on the bench. No tight areas on the mesh. I will check the drivetrain as yoiuuu said....Thx for all your help its Much appreciated.

[@TheKjelmo]

@@inspiredrc No problem. My bet is still on overtightened spur gear cover, because that will tighten the mesh between the input and output gears. That will cause binding between them and it will also sound horrible.

[@inspiredrc]

@@TheKjelmo I tend to use a low power electric hand driver to get the screws in and then turn between half or quarter turn by hand to finish off. It is difficult to judge how tight to go as the screw goes into plastic so can overtight and strip out.

[@meanf1502]

I would sell it an buy a losi or a arrma mine was doing the same thing an I bought a kraton exb nomore headache for me

[@inspiredrc]

It is really testing my patience...im not ready to give up on it yet...I do also have the 1/5th arrmas too. They also break wen I send them....

[@meanf1502]

I have a kraton 8s to but this that's why I just sold mine an got the 8s kraton what other lights are their for the kraton inwant my to have twin lights parking ones an fogs any ideas been looking rc thunder had some but can't remember where he got them from great content

[@jameswhite3677]

Gears sound like there too tight.

[@inspiredrc]

Yes. The problem is now fixed.

[@gabeross27]

@@inspiredrcwhat was the problem?

[@inspiredrc]

@gabeross27 Hi. It turned out to be bent spur shaft and rusty bearing. The rear plastic chassis was also tweaked, so I changed it also.