What's Hiding INSIDE This 35 Year Old FAILED Seacock? | E037

[@livingforsail]

To Bond or Not To Bond... That is the Question... Let the debate begin!

[@nutsandbolts432]

Never knew it was a debate. I always heard that if it’s important, bond it. Other than the extra work, is there a downside to bonding?

[@livingforsail]

@@nutsandbolts432 It provides electrical paths for stray current corrosion that would otherwise not exist. Some folks believe that if you have a very good quality PROPER bronze seacock it doesn't need bonding. I can see both sides but would probably opt to have a solid bonding system designed and installed and monitored regularly... If I put bronze back in. Plastic valves solves the whole electrical debate but have their own issues to contend with...

[@jimedson3853]

Fascinating. Both the seacock removal and disassembly, as well as the continuing bulwark cleanup. Thanks for the video 😁😁👍

[@livingforsail]

I’m glad that you enjoyed it. Cheers! 👍🙏🙌

[@robertlee2189]

Cheers to the folks that donated the camera.

[@livingforsail]

Yeah, it was a very generous donation!

[@mattdouglas5570]

Nice approach to removing the bronze skin fitting I'm going to hold onto that one

[@livingforsail]

Great! Good luck with that in the future. Cheers! 🙏👍

[@Siravingmon]

Nice calm clear detailed delivery. Very interesting and informative. Thanks!

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the feedback. It’s appreciated 🙏👍🙌

[@jcfgh]

Great episode, thanks for taking us along

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the feedback! Much appreciated 🙏👍🙌

[@trosen0]

This is so cool! I'm hooked on this project!

[@livingforsail]

Haha! Thanks for watching! I’m glad to hear that you’re into it. 🙏🙌

[@jamesstrom6991]

keep on keeping on brotha!

[@livingforsail]

👊🏻🙏

[@robertgold2643]

Glad to see you’re down to the aft bulwarks, progress! 😎

[@livingforsail]

Yeah, the first side is basically done and now I know what I’m in for on the second half! Hopefully it just keeps getting faster. Cheers! 👍

[@dougsjoberg2353]

Hey Jon! Great channel. Just found you last week. Keep up the great work. I’m a regular boat restoration junkie. I find your content interesting and your filming very high quality. Keep it going. Your subs will continue to grow I’m sure. Looking forward to what’s to come! Cheers. Doug from Vancouver.

[@livingforsail]

Hi. Thanks a lot for the feedback! Maybe see you around then. We are in Vancouver all the time. Cheers! 🙏👍 And… welcome to the channel!

[@MrChrisHobday]

New to the channel, love it!I I’m a disabled sailor doing up an old Fisher 25

[@livingforsail]

Welcome to the channel! Nice to see you here! All the best. 👍🙏🙌

[@paulstephens5229]

I would not use metal through holes at all, there are several excellent composite types available.

[@jamesstrom6991]

maralon are the best

[@livingforsail]

I will be doing a close look at the different options In a future video. I think there are still pros/cons to bronze vs plastic seacocks but some of the composite products are pretty good these days. 👍

[@scottcates]

Very interesting to see those deteriorated vall valves. A few of mine are stuck open so I'll have to replace them at the first haulout. I read where a five year life is common in some regions but I'm no expert. I am super excited how well the chainsaw method is wokring at removing all the rotten bulwarks core, too -- very cool. And it's encouraging to see people contributing some things like the camera. Way to go!

[@livingforsail]

I think the European requirements for seacocks is a five year lifespan (which seems crazy low). Most of the high end bronze units (Groco, perko, etc) should last a very long time. The new composite units are also interesting and should last very long with proper care. They can still get stuck with marine growth and are a bit more fragile… all the best getting those stuck open units fixed up! Cheers!

[@madebi85]

Good job Jon, watching from Vanuatu

[@livingforsail]

Right on. Thanks for tuning in! 👍🙏

[@ericpeterson336]

After watching you chainsaw out rotten plywood, it occurred to me that a former colleague of mine used some sort of pour in goo to repair a transom on an old powerboat. Not sure what the product is called and epoxy and foam core material might be more cost effective. The proper word for mystery goo slathered around in the aircraft industry is "pooky" as I've been told. Stumbled on your channel recently and I am hooked.

[@livingforsail]

Hi. Thanks for the feedback. Yeah, there a few “poorly” options out there that I am considering. Like you pointed out, foam material and epoxy is another option that I’m considering. I’m glad to hear that you’re enjoying the channel after a recent discovery. Welcome! 🙏🙌🙌

[@BarkTheAlliedGiant]

Such beautiful work!

[@livingforsail]

Thank you very much 🙏👍🙌

[@nicholasblue]

Another stellar episode. I have a question I ask all of my engineer friends - Do you all know when you're being overly persnickety with something? Not a criticism; if I need something fixed, given the choice, I want an engineer. Okay, your algorithm should be happier, now. Slaínte. ☘️😎

[@livingforsail]

Haha. Thank you! 🙏 👍

[@гарин-4ртж]

🙋 Слава Рукастым!!✊

[@livingforsail]

🙌👍🙏

[@andrewmoylan6295]

G'day Jon, Another great episode, mate. I thought the hull would be thicker than it is... quite surprising.

[@livingforsail]

I would not have been too shocked to find 1” or more… 🤷‍♂️. I’ll take a look at my boat strength book and see what he calls out for a boat this size… 🤔

[@andrewmoylan6295]

I also thought it would be thicker glass on the hull, at least 1 inch thick? One of my paddleboards is almost a quarter inch thick ?

[@livingforsail]

@@andrewmoylan6295 I have some interesting info on that that I will share in the next video

[@andrewmoylan6295]

Look forward to it

[@yulaaksu]

Thank you so much

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for watching! 🙏

[@rogerwolf7649]

Good job

[@livingforsail]

Thanks! 🙏

[@johnhewett2525]

Two tips, if you use composite through hulls you don't have to bond. By hammering in a tapered safety bung and cutting off the excess length you can use a standard hole-saw to remove the thru-hulls.

[@livingforsail]

Interesting idea! Yeah, I could see that working well too. Maybe I’ll try that for a future removal. Thanks!

[@s.simsmamasboy]

There is a industrial urethane that is castable and comes in hardness from sponge to rock hard. I used it to save edges on molding sand scrapers.It could easily be used to pour and fill the spaces left from plywood removel without damaging the fiberglass that looks to be great condition So easy to use my sister can use it to make molds for her sculptures.

[@livingforsail]

I’ll take a look. Thanks!

[@lailgrant5904]

Bow thruster. Good work.

[@livingforsail]

That is a very good guess! Haha. 👍

[@tarivard]

Looks like the sea creatures love all the bacteria coming from that seacock. All of my seacocks are bonded and I have two seized units I need to take a serious look at. replace? grease? Great episode.

[@livingforsail]

Yeah, these units were pretty rough. Some of the high end units (Groco B.V. series) can be rebuilt in place without removing from the boat but of course with the boat out of the water!

[@caseyrockssocks8980]

I vote for don’t bond because you don’t need to bond composite seacocks 😁 If composite are good enough for Nigel Calder they are good enough for me.

[@livingforsail]

Yeah, that’s a good point. I think I’ve heard him say “that’s what I would do if I was starting from scratch.” That’s definitely something to consider. 🤔He’s a legend! 🙌👍

[@dougtooo]

Aero Kroil Lubricant is the best stuff

[@livingforsail]

It is nice stuff!

[@jamesstrom6991]

jon, with interior of hull surface exposed, good opportunity to install insulation

[@livingforsail]

Yes, that’s a possibility. The remainder of the hull has 5/8” foam and then lightly glassed over for insulation. For some reason not present forward of the head bulkhead… 🤷‍♂️

[@MaShcode]

Whilst grinding I encountered a bronze seacock.

[@livingforsail]

Exactly! Haha

[@davidclas1809]

Great content Jon. I’m learning a lot from watching you. Why not use Marelon through hulls and seacocks in order to avoid all issues with dezinkification, electrolysis, stray current corrosion and bonding issues?

[@carlthor91]

Bronze is stronger and bonded, will probably outlast you and I.😂

[@livingforsail]

Thank you. 🙏. I will be doing a deep dive into the different valve options. I think they all still have pros and cons. Stay tuned for that!

[@livingforsail]

I appreciate the strength of bronze. If it is a GOOD QUALITY fitting to begin with I agree that it will likely outlast many of us!

[@davidclas1809]

@@livingforsail Don’t want to belabour the point, but the boat is FRP, just like Marelon. No point in through hulls outlasting the hull. Besides, as you’ve shown, the bronze has not outlasted your hull. Nuff said.

[@nmauch]

I guessed one inch. And yes cut the valve!

[@livingforsail]

I was thinking it would have been around 1” also. Thanks for the vote! 🙏👍

[@michaelpauly3219]

5/8

[@livingforsail]

Good guess - ( that’s actually close to the spec that Dave Gehr recommends in his book “the elements of boat strength” for a boat this size in that area ) 🤔

[@pipercolearchitects]

Consider an oscillating tool on the inside instead of a putty knife. Guessing 3/4” thickness

[@livingforsail]

That would have been a great idea! Haha. Thankfully this one wasn’t too bad. Cheers! 🙏👍🙌

[@Laserman99]

Should just measured the removed seacock thread height for the thickness of the hull less the seal. Go to composite through hulls like Colin used in episode 273.

[@livingforsail]

Thanks for the tips 👍

[@fisheater844]

26 mm thick hull

[@livingforsail]

Good guess! I might feel a bit better if it were. Haha.

[@garryhillier7987]

New Zealand company non metal through hole and valve fittings for boats Parlay revival fitted them

[@livingforsail]

Yes! “Tru Design” is the brand and they are now imported into the US and sold by “Gemlux”. They are a quality product and I have one setup for the drain on the anchor locker. I would double check that all of the seacocks are ABYC compliant before installing. It looks like the 3/4” version might not meet the 500lb spec? 🤔

[@willardweston2002]

5/8"

[@livingforsail]

That’s dead on with the spec given in “boat strength” for a boat this size.

[@jamesgodfrey8678]

1/2"

[@livingforsail]

Good guess 👍

[@utubefroggy]

My guess 12 mm

[@livingforsail]

Good guess 👍

[@paulcollins4932]

9/16”

[@livingforsail]

Good guess. 👍

[@jonunya3128]

0.75" for hull thickness (I didn't cheat)

[@livingforsail]

Very good guess! 👍🙌

[@yehonatandrori7617]

אלגוריתם (-:

[@livingforsail]

Thank you! 🙏 😉

[@scottcates]

HALF-INCH?

[@livingforsail]

That’s pretty close to the design spec recommended in the “boat strength” book. (0.585”)

[@user-fe8gl2zs7p]

Those are not Seacocks, they are ball valves. You don't want ball valves on your boat, replace them all.

[@livingforsail]

They are in fact flanged ball valve seacocks (let’s both be right) 😉👍