What's My favorite Perfumery Materials? - PART 3

Part 3 of 3 Video: Theres so much to talk about, I may have to split these up into 2 to 3 part videos :)
Some great places to buy these materials:
perfumersupplyhouse.com/
www.harrisonjoseph.co.uk/
shop.perfumersapprentice.com/
www.libertynatural.com/
www.edenbotanicals.com/
Don't forget to SUBSCRIBE to my channel if you like:
-- Perfumery, DIY perfumes, fragrance reviews, perfumery tips & tricks, tutorials, classes, basics, training, courses, how to's, and learning to make your own perfume and fragrances!
#bkscents #diyperfumery #fragrances
BK SCENTS :)

[@keepyourfaceradical]

This series has been super insightful! Thanks for doing these.

[@Pam-gw8js]

When you spoke about Vanillin turning darker over time, I started growing more fondness for that very reason. There's something so beautiful about it darkening over time. It feels like watching the sweetness of fruit ripening over time or attaining its classic form. Maybe I'm not describing this too well but I swoon at the idea that Vanillin procures a deeper color the longer it sits. Muy bella. 💛

[@bkscents7050]

I do love Vanillin as well! But it can be troublesome if you are working on a fragrance and the client asks for the finished perfume to have a pink hue (dye). In those cases I can't use vanillin, or too much of it

[@stevenlemke5843]

Great series of material discussions! Thanks for taking the time to put it together!

[@VSol-ud7cl]

Wow, many of the ingredients you mention are my favorites too! Gives me confidence! Love your channel. Always helpful.

[@AlbertoRiveraCEO]

Dude your channel is the best I’ve found. Thank you!

[@omkarkeni196]

Hey brother, you have done a very excellent job, these three series videos really helped me a lot. Thank you.

[@miseeire8832]

Loved this series, Thanks a million. Great view form your perspective helps a lot with material shopping for a noob like me. Excellent stuff

[@eissaalayyar6264]

I dropped dead laughing when you went through oranges 😂 I went exactly through the same experience and own every citrus from Eden Botanicals, same thing Lemon essential and Bergamot my first choice , your videos gave me a lot of confidence that what I'm smelling is supported as most of us work individually we lack that kind of support ... but when you describe exactly what I have in mind I feel relaxed and more confident... Thank you so much 💙

[@kevinverspoor4796]

Yes so true. the extreme amber wood notes will kick your ass and give one heck of a headache.

[@michapikua7974]

Great vids..... Last three help me most.... Becose I know now what to buy..... I am begginer and your knowledge help me most.... How to build fragrance.... And what to buy.... Thanks a lot

[@todamont]

you have to be super careful with citrus EO above 1-2% because it can cause serious allergic reactions and even PERMANENT skin sensitization in certain people when exposed to sunlight! This is something we are very careful about in the cosmetics and facial-cream industry. Mary Raymor from HumbleBee and Me talks about how this happened to her, in her video series. Thank you for all the great info and references to fragrances and synthetics in this video series.

[@natashablangadesign6576]

Thankyou so much! Fascinating

[@kevinverspoor4796]

ITS all about what works for you, totally agree. For me I love real Ambroxan used with cetalox and ambrox super. Z-11Firmenich is so good it's a great woody note. Firminech gets the stronger amber notes , they know how to work it.

[@alexandrelepage6509]

Thanks! Nice job

[@thejokersperspective-soj9036]

I hope you're doing well. Miss seeing new uploads. Learned a lot from you, and I hope the videos keep coming.

[@alexandrelepage6509]

Thank you👏 i enjoy it a lot.

[@laurenbray8314]

When I first got isobutavan I didn't understand the white chocolate description, only smelled cream soda. But one day I picked it up and smelled it and the white chocolate just suddenly jumped out at me. It was odd. I can see now how you could steer it in a good believable white chocolate cocoa butter direction with some additions.

[@Bougieboulevard]

First I want to thank you for your content, I highly appreciate it. I have some ideas or requests for future videos. Could you please teach us: 1. How to make Fragrances for candles? 2. How to make fragrances for soaps? 3. How to make fragrances for shampoos? and even possibly how to make fragrances for cosmetics such as body butters or moisturizers. Once again THANK YOU SO MUCH!

[@hulkblue9244]

coffee bean absolute i try it with some dessert herb due to my culture its give nice smell but i need to make more trials its hard to judge welcome back 👍🏼

[@bkscents7050]

The coffee bean abs is so much more lifelike than the CO2 variety.....and lasts much longer. But it's good to have both :)

[@hulkblue9244]

@@bkscents7050 you are right ;)

[@tamarakosta3993]

Hey there! I've recently gotten into perfume making and your videos have been really helpful. However, there's something I don't understand about diluting ingredients. If I use something that has been diluted to 50% for example, would I need to take that into consideration when adding the alcohol at the end? That is, would the fact that I used a diluted ingredient need to be taken into consideration when calculating the final ratio of oil to alcohol?

[@Kalembastudioart]

Thank you for your very informative content, as a new fragrance maker I find your information incredibly valuable. I have a question. I was wondering what your opinion is in regards to using pure honey in a fragrance?

[@Shawn-gw7ns]

Any chance of an update on new materials?These video have been super helpful 😁

[@bkscents7050]

This is a good idea. I have a whole bunch of new stuff arriving this week that I haven't tried before....maybe I should do a "first impressions" video

[@loboloco08]

Could you please explain how should I mix oils and tincture on a perfume ? Can you build a perfume with tinctures and fixative only ?

[@ToGitaGyan]

Hi Thanks for the knowledgable videos We like them a lot Can you prepare a video on body mists also

[@shikhardubey1641]

Do check out Cadamba Otto (Neolamarckia Cadamba) in gourmond section... It's gorgeous.

[@dinphu8908]

Hi! question from Thailand. Could you recommend me how to blend simple luxury scent. What compositions are usually used to give us luxury smell.Sometime, I blend woody note with rose or jasmine and add some patchouli but still get too floral. And sometime add 30% citrus it still bad. In my imagine luxury smell would be like a little bit citrus with some woody and leather. What is your opinion and thinking process before you write down a luxury scent formula.

[@investinue]

Hi BK Pleassssse post more Videossssssssss

[@sikeju92]

hello, want to ask. what is your opinion about ginger co2? does it need to be dilute? if yes how many percent?

[@texasfan8892]

I might need to revisit my ambrocenide. Even at 10% dilution, which is how it came, all I get from it is dry wood smoke/ashtray. I get no connection to Dior Sauvage whatsoever. However, dihydro mercenol smells very similar to Sauvage in my opinion. I hear it has a strong lime aroma but all I get is a refreshing, aromatic lavender scent.

[@Reign_Of_Is_REAL]

Are you coming back soon? Your channel is very helpful 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽

[@mochacola72]

After I develop my scent I also want to be able to make a candle from that scent. Do you use the same materials you use in parfum or create that scent from fragrance oils?

[@9thhydra424]

Could you make a Video talking about different Oakwoods and other woods that you haven't talked about yet. From Top note woods and Mide Woods and some other Base woods And break them down on what you get from them 😃.

[@corwingarber]

Hey man, thank you so much for your content. Really thorough; appreciate it a lot!! You meantioned Cetalox being more regal and pillowy. How would you compare cetalox to Ambrox DL? Didn’t hear much about that one. Thank you!!

[@bkscents7050]

If I remember correctly...Ambrox DL has cetalox in it already, alongside with a captive material Cachalox (probably mis spelled that one). Ambrox DL is a touch more woody....but very similar.

[@corwingarber]

worddddd ok thank you for that. interesting. might be a good substitute then. thanks man@@bkscents7050

[@shihanpk2934]

Which weighing machine should i go for? Im looking to produce small scale commercially if im successfull in making Should i opt 0.001 or 0.01 accuracy weighing machine?

[@klimadjan9681]

how many perfume did you make since you started ? wich one you like the most & can you make a description of those. Just wondering with all this stuff what did you achieve, Cordialement

[@adamlolham1895]

thanks brodie

[@ronibrunn]

Hey BK! Thank you so much for your incredible perfumery videos. I really can't thank you enough, but here's a start: I added formulas to your spreadsheet so it auto calculates how much alcohol to use and also outputs weights of materials for a target perfume weight + concentration. How can I share that with you?

[@bkscents7050]

Haha I actually have those calculations too! The spreadsheet I shared is only a basic version. The one I actually use.....is pretty complicated, lol. I didn't want to share it cause I think most people wouldn't understand how to read it...

[@ronibrunn]

@@bkscents7050 lol, of course you do. Thank you for commenting back. I look forward to anything you post on this channel! Have a good rest of your weekend 😊

[@thepenismightier8120]

@bkscents I got a question for you. I've been working in perfumery for about 3 years now and I've learned a lot both from experimentation and your channel. My question is, damascones. .alpha and delta mainly. What is up with the ifra restrictions? Can you explain the ifra restrictions and what it means and how to work with damascones within those restrictions? I love the function and fragrance of the damascones but I can't seem to use enough to get the fragrance I want. Are there alternatives that I can use in their place or essential oils or synthetics that can give the same radiance and odor of the damascones and not be so heavily restricted?

[@amazonamazon4872]

Unfortunately, theres no way around it if you live in an EU country. You can thank all the "omg the sky is falling" fear mongers that cry about anything that involves a "chemical" name, and of course the big 3 ac companies who somehow run ifras board but havent had anyone question the conflict of interest. Have you tried viridine? (Padma) rosy floralizer with no restrictions in 50th amendment

[@kurdvevoofficial]

Hope you make tutorial from small formula 1m how to make 50m or 100m bottle with alcohol

[@abc20243]

Hi there , First of all I wanna thank you for making such great video. I started DIY perfum at home about 1 year ago, at first I just used essential oils blend + DPG + alcohol but after making so much combinations and experiment I realized that I have to find ways to improve performance of my sample so I ordered so many chemicals from the internet but there is problem I cannot find a list or any description about each one and how to use or why to use , Is it possible for you to help me for this issue if I send their names?

[@wib6044]

Perfumers apprentice usually has a usage range for synthetics. Just look up each one and start from there.

[@suzannedado2428]

For your next question/answer video, I have a 3 Part Question for you. I realize your focus is on creating perfumes but fragrance oils are available everywhere for the DIYer, soap maker, cosmetic formulator, etc. In one of your videos, you briefly mention not to use fragrance oils in your perfume. I see an opportunity for you to take a more detailed approach to the differences between fragrance oils and perfume builds, providing some of us a starting point for creating a cosmetic fragrance. The wealth of knowledge you have already shared is greatly appreciated but the one-off spin-off I'd like you to see you cover includes; 1) Why people should not use a finished fragrance oil when building a perfume *from scratch* (which you briefly touched on in one video), which then leads into... 2) How a cosmetic fragrance is built, solvents used, and dilution differences since they will be further diluted in a finished cosmetic product (this can be generalized or in depth), and 3) How to find manufacturer incompatibility notes (not IFRA limits/restrictions) when using aromachemicals in cosmetics (AKA stability problems). In one of your videos, you said not to use fragrance oils in making a perfume, which makes total sense to me but perhaps not others who make soap or higher level DIY cosmetics. Most semi-trained/moderately trained cosmetic formulators buy fragrance oils or use the infamous Top/Middle/Base pyramid for essential oils and absolutes. I agree with you (from one of your videos) that is poor advice. I have been working to add tenacity, depth and complexity to the quality of my fragrances as that "pyramid" practice just doesn't get the job done. I simply have not found a perfumist-quality cosmetic fragrance “build” using aromachemicals to get the ball rolling. I am familiar with IFRA standards and how to determine usage limitations based on Category use. The assumptions I’m making right now (whether correct or not) are, 1) use oil soluble aromachemicals in an oil base rather than alcohol, and 2) much of the dilution will occur in the final product. However, I am not sure how or when to pre-dilute an aromachemical so that it won’t be lost when added to a final product where it becomes further diluted. Also, I have seen references to aromachemical incompatibilities for use in cosmetics. Very few perfumery ingredient websites provide that information. Perhaps you know of a resource to point us to versus having to contact each manufacturer for each ingredient.

[@JayMannStuff]

Hi BK. Great video. Some comments on what you've said: - Ambrocenide can work as a floral and citrus booster. Like, as an amplifier or enhancer. At least that's what I've read. - Have you tried Grisalva as a synthetic ambergris material? Didn't see you mention it, but to me it's even more sophisticated than Cetalox. - You didn't mention Cashmeran as one of the musks you use. Was wondering why? - You said you don't use Ginger CO2 as often as you should. Recommendation for a nice citrusy accord: 10ppt Lemon EO, 3ppt Ginger CO2, 1ppt Pink Pepper CO2, 1ppt AmberXtreme. Use at 1.5% of fragrance concentrate. It's just a combination of citrus and many synergistic materials (like ginger and pink pepper), with some AmberXtreme to bring some warmth and balance to the accord. Let me know what you think. - You mentioned Bergamot. Have you tried using **Ethyl Linalool** as a bergamot replacement, or as an addition to citrus essential oils? I've found it's more stable and longer lasting, and doesn't produce as many off-notes.

[@bkscents7050]

Cashmeran to me isnt a musk, and while its long lasting and soft like a musks characteristic...its odor profile isn't like a musk and its one of those materials that i rarely reach for because its odor profile is very specific in what it does. I do like it....but its just not a fave for me. Ethyl Linaool, oh yes i use that quite a bit. This 3 part series i tried to talk more about my fave specialty items and not so much "building block/workhorse" materials, like Linalool, ethyl linalool, linalyl Actetate, Iso E, Hedione HC, etc...all those materials i will always have in every formula i make so i felt they were not worth mentioning.

[@JayMannStuff]

@@bkscents7050 please make a video of all your workhorse materials. Same for your blenders. :) I'd love to see what you use the most.

[@nams37]

Thank you

[@sacool3588]

Noticed the back of most modern designer fragrance boxes list common ingredients, such as Limonene, Citronellol, Linalool, Citral, Coumarin, Geraniol, & Farnesol. Would you happen to know about any of these ingredients and if they help create some sort of backbone or if it may be for preserving the fragrance for longer period of time since they are sold to public?

[@bkscents7050]

They stuff on the fragrance box (label) is only "some of the fragrance materials within", but not all. The materials listed on fragrance boxes are for allergen listings, IFRA compliancy, and simply to post things on the label that they want the public to know what this fragrance contains. But it by no means is the full list of actual materials that makes up the fragrance. Usually a fragrance formula consists of 30-40 different materials

[@superaak]

Long time no see 🌺

[@fernandozurlo155]

GRACIAS POR TU GENEROSIDAD PARA COMPARTIR

[@Dr.pouria.m]

Hi, when you say for example using Z11 MIP at 1.5 percent, do you consider the Z-11 to be at 10% dilution? Or do you consider the Z-11 10 MIP as 100%? lets say your perfume formula is 5g, to get to 1% of formula do you add .05g or 0.25g of Z-11? Thanks in advance

[@bkscents7050]

When I predilute something that is already prediluted....I always do the math based on the actual final value of the raw material content itself. At the end of the day, you need to figure out the actual weight/percentage of just the raw material within the dilution that you used. You need to do this to help figure out if you are IFRA compliant or not on single material's.

[@keepyourfaceradical]

I’ve been buying a bunch of new materials based on these videos. You talk a lot about the dilution of materials frequently but some you didn’t. Any chance you’d at some point be able to share your dilutions for each material? Or is there a way to to reach out with more specific questions? I’m super new to this and I just hate wasting materials.

[@paulgahkyeng4588]

Greeting from Myanmar!!!! Thank you so much for these videos. They really help me grow my knowledge about perfumery. I have been trying to look for the ingredient you mentioned which is Ambrenum I guess. I could not find it anywhere so could you please tell me where I can get it? Maybe my spelling is wrong somehow I could not find the ingridient :D

[@bkscents7050]

It's Ambranum (firmenich). And perfumer supply house carries it :)

[@asrar912]

Will I need to add DPG (Di propylene glycol) as a solvent to increase the longevity of the fragrance? Or the perfume grade Ethanol will do the job?

[@amazonamazon4872]

No you dont "need" to add dpg. Dpg is good for diluting individual AC's, i use dpg as much as i can to dilute my ac's unless otherwise noted by "tgsc" or my supplier, then i will use alcohol, benzyl benzoate, or ipm pending which is called for.

[@asrar912]

@@amazonamazon4872 Thanks much! One more question: Do aroma chemicals blend with carrier oils? Can I make perfume oils by blending Aroma Chemicals with carrier oils like sweet almond , jojoba or coconut?

[@nikhilp1173]

Hi BK my name is Nikhil, from India. This video is such a knowledgable video for the upcoming perfumers like me. If you dont mind can you explain how to get the formula values in the formula column . i have been searching for these in your all videos but i didn't get it anywhere. what i mean is how do you take those values out of 1000. Like Ambroxan 14/1000. How to get those values. can u please explain it. Thanks by the way. And what do you mean by those values. how to use those values in respective to grams or drops.

[@debritaniocaesario5320]

Hey bro i got a question! The final result of perfume usually has a strong alcoholic aroma, how do you tone down that scent anyway? is aging perfume helpful or probably adding other materials as solvent? hope you’ll give a solution 😊

[@wib6044]

If your using the right alcohol it shouldn’t. Rubbing alcohol will, which is not to be used. You can use everclear (190 proof) for DIY. It will mix at this concentration. You can even use vodka (which I think is 150 proof) for personal use, but it will not mix. You have to shake it vigorously before you use it, but it’s still good enough to diffuse the juice.

[@danialahmed5154]

Beautiful vedios .. can you teach us ck2 perfume formula ..

[@abdullahsohail901]

Can anyone tell me, Is IFF is a good company to make perfume impressions?

[@laurenbray8314]

Honey Signature is PERFECTION. You literally need nothing else for honey, it smells like real honey to the point you want to try tasting it lol. That and beeswax absolute are all you need for anything honey or beeswax. I don't understand why anyone would bother with anything else. Its strong and a small 5 gram bottle from PSH lasts forever too. You'll never come as close to real honey as this stuff.

[@michelledibia2915]

I know this question is coming in late but how do you predilute and dose it. What predilution percentage do you use?

[@2ndAveScents]

Is two days considered double of 12 hours?

[@artdesignstage]

Hi any chance to help me with making Gucci envy 1998 please great job what you doing

[@paulweston1148]

Question: im trying to understand more of the chemistry side of ingredients, why is the specific gravity of ingredients so important?

[@wib6044]

The gravity? Do you mean when he talks about lift? Sam Macer has a channel and he is a chemist. He has a lot of theory science stuff there.

[@amazonamazon4872]

In your opinion what are the closest sweet floral notes to the real deal, i.e. frangipani, jasmine, lisylang, ylang ylang?

[@bkscents7050]

I have 2 frangipani trees in my back yard...and they are very full of Phenyl ethyl alcohol. I was shocked how deep and rosy it smells

[@amazonamazon4872]

Omg that is awesome!!! I wish i had the climate for tropical plants lol

[@roshanallindia]

❤ nice ☄️

[@amazonamazon4872]

Quick question, have tou came across anywhere with a vinyl/record type note? If not can you point me in the direction of some notes to start off making one?

[@bkscents7050]

I haven't tried this one yet! But I would imagine it should smell like plastic....in that case I would reach for aldehydic or ozonic materials. But which ones would stump me, cause I don't have any records here to smell for reference, lol

[@laurenbray8314]

I've heard people say styrax can be useful for that. Not benzoin but the liquidambar type styrax. Its got a plastic like thing to it but you gotta be careful with the dosage, its strong stuff and restricted.

[@amazonamazon4872]

Thanks for the insight!!!!

[@amazonamazon4872]

Im really glad, you make these videos, its made creating fragrances so much better! And thank you lauren, everybody here or who watches seems to be super helpful too!

[@wib6044]

Egyptian myrrh and benzyl acetate smell exactly like a pvc inflatable raft out of the package. Note sure if that is the note you are looking for, or if it’s more the musty cardboard paper sleeve.

[@akekJK]

Hello, may I know which scale do you use?

[@bkscents7050]

I forget which model...but it's made by a company called US Solid. It has max capacity of 200g, and a readability of 0.000g

[@juandelacruzfraganciadelac1224]

What video has the name of the cooling part of the spearmint . I'm trying to find that oil

[@bkscents7050]

The cooling part of spearmint is L-carvone. You can by that pretty easily....

[@juandelacruzfraganciadelac1224]

@@bkscents7050 I was able to find it and I order it thanks so much

[@bkscents7050]

Yay......another great spearmint to get is a variety called "Nana". It's a lovely spearmint....

[@juandelacruzfraganciadelac1224]

@@bkscents7050 I will get that one also thank you

[@juandelacruzfraganciadelac1224]

@@bkscents7050 BK how much do you dilute your Aldehydes?

[@passsacaglia]

miss u mate! hope all is good?

[@joejojo5966]

whats a decent starter scale?

[@bkscents7050]

I'd say anything that has a max capacity of up to 200g....and has a readability of 0.000g (3 decimal places). And it should have a tolerance of being accurate withing +/- 0.003g

[@joejojo5966]

@@bkscents7050 recommend a brand? or any scale on amazon should be fine lol. kinda on a budget. like 130max

[@bkscents7050]

Within those specs...the one I use is a brand called US Solid....and it was only $99

[@joejojo5966]

@@bkscents7050 ok gonna get that one XD Dont hate me, do you recommend getting a starter kit for the oils? and is perfumers apprentice good?

[@bkscents7050]

Yes, the Perfumers Apprentice starter kit works well. But for full disclosure....perfumery is a very expensive hobby and profession. You'll find yourself wanting to get a hold of every oil and molecule available. The starter kit will get you going at first, but within a few months you'll be wanting more. And that's not a bad thing....but the costs do add up very quickly after 1 year when you first start

[@frankm.2082]

👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼

[@BrujaPerfumeLab]

Do you have a video on where and how to purchase trusted raw materials.

[@wib6044]

Perfumers apprentice, Eden botanicals. Perfumers supply house. Ensar Oud. You should be able to pretty much find anything between those 4. Don’t order raw materials from Amazon. Equipment is ok though. Filled with tons of frauds. If it’s too good to be true don’t buy it😝.

[@catface101]

"He makes own honey from his own trees" Sir where do you think honey comes from?

[@bkscents7050]

Hahahha yeah, now that I rewatch it...I had a total brain fart at this moment.

[@TheCybird]

hersheys is a bad example for chocolate, there is far more real chocolate

[@HueyPProductions]

do you have an email so I can get in contact with you?

[@user-ok1mr7uw7r]

Hello, I am amazed by your professional knowledge. I am working in one company and maybe we can corporate to create something for the brand. It would be great if we could contact you and I would give you more info on this topic. We are waiting for your soon reply. Thank you)

[@pipycaca]

Hello BK! I need an email address so I can send you something