What's The Best Carabiner For Use With Belay Devices? | Climbing Daily, Ep. 581

[@donaldmei8797]

They say the Edelrid beats the Magnetron Gridlock because of price. What they don't mention is that there is a screwlock version of the Gridlock that is no more money than the Edelrid and still has the Gridlock's superior design.

[@minirusse19]

Donald Mei Also worth mentionning that at 1:39, he is obviously not using a screwgate gridlock...

[@dfjdskf9234j4fisd]

I love my Edelrid Bruce steel HMS carabiner. Basically the same as the one in this video but it'll last much much longer. I think it's best for beginner belayers to learn with a screwgate so they get the habit of checking to see if it's locked. If they learn on a twist lock or magnetron then later use a screwgate they may leave it unlocked... since they're used to using autolocking biners

[@fsttrdl]

I use the BD rocklock magnetron. It’s my favorite piece of climbing gear. For me, it’s not finicky like the anti-cross loading carabiner, and if used properly can have that danger minimized, quick and simple to use, and tough. Although pricey, for me it’s a small price for safety.

[@josephinereuther2664]

The wire gate used by edelrid can pose problems with some harness designs. When the belay loop of a harness is wide and flat, rather than narrow and thick it can slip out.

[@bullfrogboss8008]

Take a look at Ocun Condor. It has similar springy wire gate, but oriented in a one-way. You absolutely have to manually open it in order for the belay loop to get through the gate

[@glittalogik]

The Metolius Gatekeeper is my pick, the bottom gate swings in the opposite direction to the Edelrid one shown so it's easier to put on and harder to take off, makes more sense to me than having it the other way around.

[@nik97able]

My best of the bunch is the DMM Belay Master. I won't recommend a carabiner with a normal screw gate.

[@eliteinventor]

I second that

[@rowanferwerda4865]

I third that

[@SmeeGuitar]

With the black diamond its important that you put the grigri in the small part. Otherway round it could open

[@Tr33fiddy]

Pfft. £25 for safety equipment is hardly going to break the bank. I love my Magnetron.

[@torinstorkey]

Yes it is brilliant.

[@MattNicassio]

I have the Black Diamond Magnetron Gridlock and an Edelrid HMS Strike Screwlock with FG. My gf and I go to the gym and the crag and especially at the gym where you're passing the belay device back and forth, plus we often bring other people, the BD Magnetron is such a nice belay biner! It's super easy for me to show newb's how to use it, and it just makes everything that much more safe. When it comes to belaying, I spare no expense. We use the Mega Jul in the gym because they only allow tube devices and the GriGri outdoor. Both devices work super well and combined with the BD Megatron we can be sure everything is working at their peak capabilities. I did personally learn on a regular screw lock biner and a normal BD tube device. I think I have better habits because of this. But if you're going to be climbing with friends who just want to get their feet wet in the sport and aren't looking to build a rack anytime soon. I see more sense in using something that can lock or assist brake and a biner that can't cross load or forget to be locked.

[@tstrrtstrr745]

I like the Edelrid gear, never had a problem with any of their products. Very good quality.

[@BillyNewmanphoto]

NIce clear video. Thanks for going over this.

[@danielfry8882]

Wheres the DMM Belay master?

[@dfjdskf9234j4fisd]

Edelrid Bruce steel carabiner. My go to gym and crag belay biner no doubt!

[@pbamma]

my first buy too. strong but heavy. I'm fine with heavy as a noob.

[@Marty00011]

I started usin mammut smart, with twist-lock (they make screw also), and it's ok :)

[@eiojgahum]

I had mine on roadeavour. Imma get these carabiners too.

[@TheBoarder360]

The original screw locking BD Gridlock gets my vote, £10 cheaper than the magnetron with a tried and tested locking mechanism.

[@oblivion1244]

his hand over hand belaying is driving me insane

[@tj6111]

+Oblivion YES.

[@Mad1Z]

Well this is the basic method that is taught to beginners. Tunnelling the rope is more convenient but a little bit more dangerous for beginners.

[@kayakerodie]

This is the french method, and it is stronger......get out of the gym and learn the correct method.....who ever came up with the sliding method doesn't understand that when their partner takes a fall, that extra second of braking power adds up to a stopage of approximately 11 feet when using the method he is using.

[@kayakerodie]

all I can say to trent is that he must be english and has something against french techniques....I guess he doesn't use his tongue when he kisses his boyfriend's ass......lololol

[@Messiahs]

If it does... inform yourself. It's a perfectly fine method.

[@tonkashouse]

Magnetron Gridlocks wear out super fast when used with a tube style belay/rappel device. They're best just used with Gri-Gri's and such devices.

[@bullfrogboss8008]

I love my Ocun Condor

[@MattNicassio]

I own all three and the Black Diamond Magnetron Gridlock is WELL WORTH the money! I have screw gate biners that I bought when I first started climbing. But now I only buy auto lock biners. You can get them for the same price. Trango Mammut and Camp all make auto locking biners for maybe a dollar more than a screw lock. It's so much faster and you never have to check a locking biner again. I personally like the Mad Rock Ultra Tech Twist Carabiner, it is 12 bucks and only requires a twist rather than a lift and twist.

[@bonyphi12]

Matt Nicassio always check your biners. Even autolockers

[@jasonlovi8745]

Lol, literally just bought one yesterday!

[@chuckybuilder]

What was that green belay device with he handle (the first belay device shown in the video). I have never seen one before

[@m0n4r]

+FallingFire Trango Cinch.

[@mtb416]

Myte I git a beelay?

[@420opticnapeshot2]

I hate it when people let go of the brake rope on a grigri just cause it brakes it self

[@mgausp]

For use with a tube device, i'd simply go for a D-shaped biner, a trilock type preferably. With a Trango cinch or grigri, I found the DMM Gridlock to work great. I just don't trust these Magnetrons...

[@quokka8842]

Except the last biner is orientated upside down when underload. That is the screw gate can unscrew from constant vibration. Unlikely but possible.

[@dukeofnuke2446]

DMM Belay Master

[@tsproduction8957]

why are there no more?

[@Northernblades]

DMM belay master Mammut Crag Smart HMS Screwgate and for simplicity, and just belay, do not forget the attache. oh and the belay needs some serious "updating"

[@scubasteveandunderwaterroc3547]

The black dimonond magnetron can also be more dangerous because if any dirt or small debris gets in the way of the magnet it probably won't close for saying it is probably not good for outdoor use

[@flapeee]

wan't even better ? Extra lock protection ;) and no magnet crazyness: CRAG SMART HMS

[@dukeofnuke2446]

Or the belay master ;)

[@AV1461]

But which ones aren't suitable for belaying?

[@Coreyc04]

What is the issue with an auto locker? They didn't even throw one on here.

[@EGL24Xx]

Corey Christiansen did you miss the magnetron?

[@andersonboy620]

There is a cheaper non magnetic BD that does the job very good abd it is cheaper

[@TheThumbsUpChannel]

Why aren’t auto locking carabiners used?

[@joeyksnowboards]

Umm... screwgate gridlock? Where is it?

[@Esgelicon]

carabiners are not supposed to be used with the screw racing upwards.... that is a flawed design

[@tillsen]

Well with only 3 to show.. the selection was still very basic. There is way more variety to be had.

[@Madmaxxxx1984]

Till Fischer i use a basic keychain carabiner

[@choonwahyee9101]

! Best ! Atc xp , atc pilot's belays ! With lock exotica lock O carabiner 's ! Auto locking system! Done ! Climbing soon !

[@VR6NAVYVW]

B-lay devices lol

[@yukoncornelius3550]

The guy in the vid really needs to learn how to belay.

[@yukoncornelius3550]

So he doesn't drop someone.

[@yukoncornelius3550]

Constantly taking your brake hand off the rope introduces additional margin for error. Eventually, people get lazy or distracted while performing the repetitive motion of belaying so it's best to always keep your brake hand on the rope to minimize the chance of a sloppy handoff. Sometimes you have to switch brake hands which is fine but it should be a deliberate motion and shouldn't be part of taking up slack. Everyone has their own view of what is acceptable but I'm not taking a belay from someone who goes hand over hand.

[@yukoncornelius3550]

Agreed that as long as one hand is securely on the rope, nobody is gonna get dropped. It's just easier to always keep one hand on the rope when one hand never leaves the rope. I'm all about minimizing the margin for possibly fatal errors.

[@orangegreenn]

This is how belaying is taught in Europe, and so far, this method has held up just fine in the many, many years it has been taught and used

[@AlexMckillmore]

Magnetron is like £5 more than the edelrid. That's next to nothing. The way he's talking about it, you'd think it's £100.

[@jesselopez904]

Bullshit!! BLACK DIAMOND BY A MILE!! Take your sorry ass accent and go get my coffee. 🤣😂😅🤗💖💚 Peace

[@poetac15]

First

[@antonnielsen10]

shut the fuck up with that "first" shit u lil bitch

[@BryanSheasby]

"Beee lay devices" known to the rest of the world as beLAY devices.

[@jenniferepperson3392]

This guy sucks at belaying, I have never seen anyone belay like that.⛰

[@adventureswithfrodo2721]

stick to the gym.