What’s the Cap height on a sleeve pattern - Sleeve Cap Heights Explained

Let’s talk about cap heights on your sewing patterns. The cap height is measured up from the straight line connecting the arm’s eye on the sleeve pattern.
I use extreme examples of the cap heights in this video to show the biggest difference. For example, a ski/snowboard/climbing jacket may have a super short cap height, as shown here.
The shorter the cap height, the better the lift is, meaning the garment doesn’t lift as much when the arms are lifted to the sides. However, there will be more draglines when the arms are in the down position.
The taller the cap height, the worse the garment lift is. However, when the arms are down, there will be very few draglines under the arm.
If your sleeve feels too restricting when the arms lift, try lowering the cap height.
If you have too many draglines under the arm, try adding to the cap height.
People have asked me what the perfect cap height is in pattern making. As you can see from the video, every style is different for this point of measure. It’s based on the function or layer of the garment.
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[@GinaRenee]

This video and nearly 100 more are linked through The Fitting Book. Buy your book from Amazon: amzn.to/430rWIX Or other buying options: www.ginareneedesigns.com/the-fitting-book-printed/

[@SReid111]

I have to say the clear line drawings are incredible. Thank you so much for the effort needed to produce these videos!

[@GinaRenee]

I'm so happy they are helpful! Thanks for your nice feedback :)

[@rebeccaredletter]

That is SO AMAZING!! I’ve known about cap heights for MANY years and I understand how it makes sleeves LOOK. HOWEVER, I did not know how it affects the functionality of the sleeve in relation to the rest of the garment! THANK YOU 🙏🏻🎉

[@GinaRenee]

I'm so glad this was helpful and it clicked for you! So happy to hear that!

[@Sew-Ronica]

I'm really getting a new respect for KZbin shorts. I get helpful information in a timely fashion. ❤

[@GinaRenee]

Glad you like them!

[@Vegemight68]

Thank you for sharing! Most drafting books don’t explain this.

[@GinaRenee]

Thanks so much for your nice comment! I'm glad it's helpful.

[@daniellethomas9199]

Thank you so much for this. I’m don’t want to screw up my project. This helped big time. Not like every video I’ve seen that’s is long and dragged out and still didn’t give me an answer. so awesome. Thank you 😊

[@GinaRenee]

I'm so glad you found this helpful! Thanks so much for your nice feedback :)

[@SeanAlexanderThirtyEight]

This was EXTREMELY helpful. Thank you!

[@GinaRenee]

I'm so happy to hear it's helpful!

[@Firas_Official]

I was making a pants and I had a mistake fitting front to back, thanks to your short videos I was able to adjust my pattern and today I finished it. THANK YOU! ❤

[@GinaRenee]

Wonderful, I'm glad you used the videos to improve your patterns and fitting! I'm happy to hear that. Thanks for the feedback!

[@jilllazdane8861]

I've got your book and trying to correct peaking sleeves and thought i'd have a look at different cap heights and am surprised that higher caps make for lift. this seems counterintuitive to me.

[@GinaRenee]

Yes, it is a bit counterintuitive. There's usually what I call a "sweet spot" for the cap height range, and it's that middle ground where the cap height is not too tall and not too short. It's finding that balance of what feels good to you for the lift of the garment.

[@gloriaking624]

Exactly what I feel too.(in-between short n long is better

[@kelechionele4274]

This is helpful,thanks

[@GinaRenee]

I’m so glad it’s helpful 🌷🌻

[@Viji-bd7db]

Big THANK you...one person told that when he catches top long iron bar while standing in bus..Soon bottom of shirt will rise up...... Now I understood through pictures and talk... If talk is very fluent English......then difficult to understand....... So both talk and written communication on screen also good like Television news.. May God bless you with peace happiness and charity to others sufferers........

[@GinaRenee]

I'm so glad this was helpful. I'm glad you are using the closed caption (CC) button on the video to read it the audio. So glad you're able to understand the reason why the garment rises now when the arm lifts. God's blessings to you!

[@tosuq]

This explains a lot 🫨

[@GinaRenee]

So glad it does! More info can be found in The Fitting Book on pages 140-143.

[@sineadsdolls-drawings]

Thank you soo much for posting this tutorial and explanation! I have been trying to draft a dress for my Morticia Addams doll and couldn't figure out why the wrinkles kept happening or why the draft didn't sit correctly

[@GinaRenee]

I'm so glad this was helpful! Thanks for letting me know :)

[@nicolef.peniston-bird5031]

Brilliant and to the point!

[@grdmethod]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@piratedeadhead]

Thank you so much for this!

[@GinaRenee]

It’s my pleasure 😊

[@siboncreation]

Very important video for sleeves Thank you mam❣

[@GinaRenee]

Thanks for your nice feedback.

[@user-ep7xh5zf1q]

Thank you so much

[@GinaRenee]

My pleasure! :)

[@user-ij9vo1ue9i]

Brilliant!

[@GinaRenee]

Glad you enjoyed the video!

[@AsyaIZME]

So useful simple and to the point ❤

[@GinaRenee]

Happy you like it!

[@zaranea7920]

Thanks for explaining!

[@GinaRenee]

My pleasure! Thanks for tuning in!

[@randomcat4052]

Good to know.

[@GinaRenee]

Glad it's helpful!

[@cdiane1602]

Great explanation, and the pictures helped a lot!

[@GinaRenee]

I’m so glad it was helpful!

[@lampitok8044]

Thanks very helpful

[@GinaRenee]

Glad it's helpful!

[@CYNWORLD]

Thanks for information.

[@GinaRenee]

My pleasure!

[@thuvo1940]

Thank you!

[@GinaRenee]

You're welcome!

[@johnfowkes3707]

Thank you.

[@GinaRenee]

My pleasure!

[@kueichenglee7583]

Thank you

[@grdmethod]

My pleasure!

[@wendyb7993]

Thanks for your help

[@GinaRenee]

It's my pleasure! :)

[@jessicainnocent2519]

What happens to the normal length of the sleeve measured?

[@GinaRenee]

On a shorter cap height sleeve, the sleeve length is technically shorter from the top of the cap height to the hem compared to a sleeve with a longer sleeve cap height. However, I usually measure sleeves from the Center back of the garment to the shoulder tip, then to the sleeve hem - it's called a 3-point sleeve measuring process. That way you always have the same total length comparison because the shoulder width and cap height varies for every style.

[@ursulaf7465]

thank you for sharing

[@GinaRenee]

My pleasure!

[@skfashionpatternmaster]

Nice

[@kehindeoyesiku1732]

Thanks for sharing

[@GinaRenee]

It’s my pleasure!

[@JosephineAmpomah-lj8tj]

Nice one dear

[@GinaRenee]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@galainak4195]

Thank you so much!

[@GinaRenee]

My pleasure!

[@adrianghandtchi1562]

Would fabric choice affect the crease lines?

[@GinaRenee]

The appearance of the creases will look different with different fabric types, but the actual amount of excess creating the crease lines is actually the same if you have the same exact pattern but different fabrics. In some cases, if the fabric has vertical stretch, that could reduce some wrinkles in the cap area but not in the underarm area.

[@surfgal77]

The sleeve also fits tighter under the armpit with the narrow cap hight

[@GinaRenee]

Yes, that's correct!

[@rn3890]

Useful ☺

[@jingowilson2624]

🤜

[@bharatibhai1041]

G00d sir

[@nims5537]

👍

[@ayarioussama3396]

i Just keep it in betwen IS thé best for thé look and for thé mouvement too 👍👍👍👍♥️

[@TheFashionArtAndDesigning]

5.50 inch...cap height all sizes...this measure..?

[@kueichenglee7583]

Do you think you can add an elbow lump in it, so when bending, the elbow part doesn't receive much stress.

[@GinaRenee]

The best thing for an ergonomic sleeve with elbow shaping is to either have a two-piece sleeve that has shaping built-in or a sleeve with darts. The point of the dart goes to the elbow from the underarm seam. Either option gives you shaping for the elbow. If you take a look at many suit blazers or motorcycle jackets, you'll see these types of fitted, shaped sleeves.

[@sharonkhor7433]

Well explain. Is there any formula or calculation for the various height of sleeve cap?

[@GinaRenee]

There is not a set calculation for the cap height. I have another video explaining how to measure your own cap height and that is a good starting point. The bicep width needed can also affect the cap height.

[@xyz7572]

Woaaaahhh

[@Tourewiets]

I was making a baseball jack with the lower capheight, but didnt like the draglines. So i changed to a high cap, but is there another way to get rid of those drag lines and keep the space for moving your arm freely? Should I change the armhole to a more straight line then?

[@GinaRenee]

I'm sorry for my delayed response. I've been sick over the last two weeks. Another option is to raise the armhole under the arm. This will then allow you to have a shorter cap height because the armhole is higher, allowing for more moveability. When it comes to functional activewear, "function" always trumps "looks" for fitting purposes. If the whole garment raises due to a taller cap height, it may be less functional. Comfort is key in functional activewear and many times, you need to accept the draglines so that there is enough movement. The movement allows for optimal sports performance.

[@Tourewiets]

@@GinaRenee thank you and hope you are ok now. So if I understand it correct, by raising the underline of the armhole your gap is getting smaller and so your sleeve will be narrower but with the space for movement cause of the low capheight? And the draglines will be less then. That is easier than making a sleeve adjustment for small arms! (Tried that now hahaha)

[@millennialdisposition]

If the pattern I purchased came with a short cap height, and I draw a larger cap height on my muslin, do I need to make the arm hole on the bodice bigger?

[@GinaRenee]

You would have to either reduce the bicep width of your sleeve in order for it to fit in your armhole or you would have to lower the armhole to make it bigger.

[@muhammadasifimran8398]

I am impress but I ask a question can we use this method for gents shirt saleev cutting plz teach me I feel uncomfortable feel when I am cutting gents short

[@GinaRenee]

Yes, this methodology applies to both men’s and womenswear. Men tend to especially prefer the function over the appearance. The shorter cap height can offer a better function but generally you don’t need to go too short in the cap height for everyday clothes. This was a drastic example for a short cap height for a ski/snowboard/climbing jacket to allow the full arm to lift without the jacket rising much.

[@zachmcmillian2330]

so i made a shirt and i like the look a lot but when i raise my arms it feels very tight and restricting. that’s a cap height issue and i should lower the cap height right?

[@GinaRenee]

It depends where it's tight. If it's tight in the circumference of the sleeve, then you need a bigger circumference (for example, bigger bicep and elbow). If it's tight in the cap area as you lift, then it's likely the cap height. If you are reaching forward and it's tight, it's likely the cap width.

[@zachmcmillian2330]

@@GinaRenee okayy, i think it’s mostly when i move my arms forward so should be the cap width. is that the same as the bicep width or something different?

[@GinaRenee]

@@zachmcmillian2330 The cap width is on the sleeve cap head on the pattern. It's shown in The Fitting Book on page 16 for your reference. If the issue is that the garment is tight when you reach forward, you may want to try checking the across back of the body as shown on pages 109-110 in The Fitting Book. Then possibly give more to the cap width where it feels tight to you.

[@zachmcmillian2330]

@@GinaRenee okay thank you so much for the advice i really appreciate it!

[@MoonPhaze5]

Can the cap height be made in-between the short and the tall?

[@GinaRenee]

Absolutely! Most patterns are in between the two. The drastic difference here was for the demonstration of the differences in the fit/function.

[@MoonPhaze5]

@@GinaRenee Thanks! I never knew there was that difference. I just started making my own clothes, and information like this, although basic for some, is like finding the toy in a box of cracker jack. 👏😄 Thanks again.💗

[@GinaRenee]

@@MoonPhaze5 I love your fun analogy! That's wonderful that you are taking the time to learn these things. It will greatly help you in your sewing journey!

[@MoonPhaze5]

@@GinaReneeThanks! I'm sure watching more of your videos will help too. 😄👍

[@TheFashionArtAndDesigning]

whats calculation for cap height...?

[@GinaRenee]

The cap height depends on the amount you want to move your arm up. There is not a specific calculation. You can refer back to the videos with me measuring my arm to determine a good starting cap height based on the arm movement.

[@TheFashionArtAndDesigning]

@@GinaRenee thank you try it

[@TheFashionArtAndDesigning]

main chest (full bust) according...? how to calculate...... divide plus minus plz explain

[@MinhAnh-yt7cg]

do you sell online courses ?

[@GinaRenee]

Hello, yes. I recommend signing up for my free mini-course and you'll learn more about the courses I teach: www.ginarenee.com/offers/Fo625ufw

[@TeereniK]

Thank you

[@GinaRenee]

My pleasure!