What's Wrong With the Ruckus...

[@toddabbott781]

I did a quick search for you for a Ruckus 150 swap charging and the first article said... "Expect charging issues with 8-pole Stators GY6 engines usually come with 6-pole or 8-pole stators which typically don’t output enough power at idle to charge the battery while running the headlights. This is a minor inconvenience most of the time, but can lead to a dead battery and huge headaches under the wrong conditions. The simple answer to this is to upgrade to an 11-pole stator, but this isn’t totally necessary.A side note, if you have severe battery charging issues (while riding), this isn’t normal and there is a fault in the system. Contact the maker of your harness and try to get an answer as to what’s going on."

[@motonosity]

I installed an 11-pole stator while we were doing the build.

[@Loger01]

"Thanks for trying to help me bro, but I actually already installed an 11-pole stator while we were doing the build"

[@callumdavidson8151]

Motonosity Are you sure your stator isn't fucked 😂

[@97lb12345]

Todd Abbott

[@CLClubhouse]

Smokey mountain crawl 2017....don't be late

[@kandinrobinson2090]

I had a rectifier problem on my last bike and learnt a lot. First you want about 14 volts on the battery when your rpm's are high [not idle, you want about 5k+ rpm]. This means it's charging and you don't have a problem with your stator or RR. Next you'll test your RR, if your volt meter has a diode tester stick the positive end on the positive wire and touch each yellow[or white] wire with the negative. They should all read the same, the value doesn't matter as long as they are somewhat close. Next swap it around, so negative on negative wire and touch each yellow or white wire with the positive. Again all numbers should be close to each other. Your negative and positive will have different values but it's the 3 yellow wires that you're wanting to have the same value. If they aren't you have a bad rectifier. There are a few good videos out there to teach you how to diagnose charging issues. My bet is you have a bad RR or you wired it wrong. I was told by my Mechanic that a stator almost never fails without the regulator rectifier going first.

[@RollingWrench]

There is two separate stators a/c and d/c I have had the same issue in the past. What color is the plug of the stator? White or green?

[@caswellracing7626]

You should have 14v or more while running. Your stator is not working.

[@Azlehria]

Caswell Racing 76 Or the rectifier. Possibly the regulator. Might even be a damaged battery. It *was* mis-wired the first time he tried to start it.

[@mariogodreaudraft]

honda's voltage regulator are very often the problem. google it up, their regulator seems to fail in atv and motorcycle a lot

[@caswellracing7626]

Motonosity. Have you ever hooked uo the battery backwards. If you do there is a internal 1 way diode in the rectifier that will break if you do. If that breaks then it will prevent it from charging.

[@nemosaurus]

Caswell Racing 76 can you replace the diode?

[@VroomVroomDana]

BMX Backflip coming soon!!

[@litttj7398]

VroomVroomDana love your videos dana

[@motonosity]

lol yep first trick I'm learning!

[@litttj7398]

Motonosity love ur vids to motonosity

[@RollingWrench]

The exact combo I run is scooter works stator: 0900-1077 and scooter works rectifier regulator: 0900-1008. I hope this helps. The charging system can be a big headache. What GY6 harness are you running?

[@jicee23]

ATR

[@EmilienGosselin]

if the voltage drops when the bike is running it means the alternator is not working. You should have the opposite.

[@munchiesgaming3067]

Emilien Gosselin Correct

[@franky1668]

CN_Abdiel my bike has an alternator so does bandits and quite a few other bikes

[@franky1668]

should of said it an st1100 pan European with upgraded alternator

[@the.oneyedjack6812]

Emilien Gosselin stator not alternator

[@Azlehria]

CN_Abdiel A stator is *part* of an alternator, generator, electric motor, or magneto. The part that doesn't move - it's STATionary. The other major part is the rotor - the moving part, generally combined on small engines with the flywheel. The only real difference is between an alternator, producing AC current, which has been standard on pretty much every vehicle since the '60s, & a generator which produces DC current. Magnetos are weird & irrelevant here. The reason people tend to refer to each part separately on bikes, etc. is due to the different construction: bikes are essentially the only application where they *can* be replaced or serviced separately without special handling. It's still an alternator, though.

[@jeffswanson6516]

start it up and then disconect the battery if it shuts off then its just running off the battery and the stator is either bad or not hooked up right

[@coryunferferth1767]

You still need to turn that idle down..damn thing tried to take off with the choke on lol

[@traviskerley8292]

Don't know if you have tried this or not but unhook your ground while it is running and if it dies you have a charging issue if not it's a battery issue. It looks like you may have a dead sale in the battery if that's the case the battery will charge and show charge but once you put a drain on it it will quickly lose voltage

[@nokia26300]

while your engine is on.remove the negative side of the battery. if the engine dies,then you have an electrical issue with the bike

[@midcoastmoto8724]

28 days of uploading! You legend, you earned a day off, and don't have to apologise to anyone for it! Thanks for your efforts BK, it's been awesome to see your material. Enough people have commented already, but you should have the Ruckus sorted with a stator

[@ChinzoPhoto]

what wattage headlight bulbs are you running? try testing the voltage with the headlights unplugged and see if there is any change. swap out the rectifier first since its easy to do. you'll need some type of puller to replace the stator.

[@MrSparkyAprilia]

I had something similar with my first Road bike (zxr400) same issues and it was the rectifier not putting enough voltage out to charge the battery. It withe start up fine, leave it for 10 minutes and it would start up fine etc. but ifI went for a long ride the battery would go flat due to lights being on constantly. Fortunately I could bump start mine!

[@RollingWrench]

You have to match the stator with the correct rectifier

[@davidbonnet9614]

Hey Motonosity, is your voltage dropping as you rev it up? If it drops while you rev it then it's most likely your regulator rectifier. You can always have your local dealership do a load test on the battery to rule out the whole bad battery cell thing. That will also save you from buying a battery if you don't need it.

[@stiradarp1]

Looks like the regulator may be either bad or not quite hooked up correctly. When you rev the bike your voltage should rise and peak out around 14-14.5VDC. You can also check the leads coming off of the stator and see what a/c voltage it's putting out. Just shoot each of the yellow leads to ground when the bike is running and make sure your meter is set to a/c.

[@matthewdorman791]

I didn't even know about your love for OnePlus but now that i do, you have moved up in my list of favorite people.

[@komentierer]

I am currently doing an apprenticeship at Audi to become a vehicle mechatronic, so take my advice with a grain of salt as I am not as experienced as a lot of other people out there, but my suggestion is that there is some electrical device pulling a current while the ruckus is off, this propably drained the battery so many times which is why it doesn't charge properly and loses voltage as quickly as it does with just the ignition on. To find out if this is the case, you have to measure the current flowing from the battery when it's off, which you might be able to do with your multimeter, but most likely it won't be able to as those things usually can only measure a very small current. You should propably take it to a shop, they usually have the right equipment, measuring the current there should only take 2-3 minutes.

[@chriswood3552]

I had a similar problem with my YZF600r. In my case I only had to replace the voltage regulator but not the stater. I ordered both anyway just to see if both had a problem

[@ericmizga1177]

Digging the white and grey shirt!!! Where's it from??

[@motonosity]

Target! hahaha

[@DarkSide_Electrical]

Check the voltage coming from the alternator (stator) if that's giving out a voltage higher than 14 then it's not that, now check the voltage coming out of the regulator rectifier because it could be faulty, unfortunately not really reparable but there not to expensive.

[@ethanmcleod8819]

You know what would make the buffalo cauliflower taste even better? If it was made with chicken ;-)

[@danielwilson199]

Is the ground the frame/engine? If so you should float the ground from the stator so you have a negative wire going directly to the R/R it will give you a more stable charge then you don't have to worry about grounds.

[@rod2592]

Try and disconnect your headlights and taking another voltage reading. When you turn the key the headlights came on and voltage drop quick.

[@WouldTurner]

Id look at the rectifier/regulator. Can you detach the battery while the thing is running? See if it keeps running?

[@KaysaunCarter]

@Motonosity My 150 gy6 motor came with a 6 pole stator but had a 8 pole flywheel attached so it didn't charge the battery. I replaced the stator with a 8 pole one and fixed the charging problem and motor ran smoother. You will need a flywheel puller to get the flywheel to replace the stator. Also be very careful with the woodruff key.

[@anqelvblog8159]

@motonosity You have to change the flywheel To 11 pole like the stator and have to change too the regulator to 11 pole

[@andrewboulter3811]

To make sure if the stator is actually bad you should check the voltage reading directly at the stator connection. It should be a fairly high voltage (up to 20v), and then the voltage is reduced in the voltage regulator down to around 14v for charging the battery. Also if the battery is fully charged the voltage regulator won't allow charge into the battery and it will stay around 12v until the battery is drained somewhat, then the reading will go up to around 14v in order to keep the battery charged.

[@Drachen596]

Can you swap the battery with one of the other bikes? if it was wired backwards to start you may have damaged it somehow. They can still show a charge but not push enough amps to do anything.

[@PiazzaWoodWorks]

What's voltage with motor running and headlights off ? You need to run the headlights off the yellow wire on the reg so that they don't rely on batt power , I would also look at running a led bar instead of the two massive halogens , draw way less power

[@PiazzaWoodWorks]

Also you should be seeing 14.5v with motor running and some medium revs , Is this not running the stock stator that came with the ruckus ?????

[@2xSketchMotovlogs]

Update: I drank a gallon of water everyday for a week Brent.... Forgot how much time you end up spending standing in front of the toilet lol. For real though, you just feel better overall when you're well hydrated. Well worth it :) Good luck with the Ruckus. Been having similar electrical issues on my F4i. Ended up replacing all the main bits (battery, stator, regulator/rectifier) and it's better but still kinda weird - I hate electrical issues. The low voltage sounds like either a stator issue or R/R issue. Maybe try unplugging the stator cable and testing the multimeter on the connector. If the number is good while the bike is running it might be the R/R. That's all I got for ya. Not a mechanic or anything, just been struggling with the same issues the past few weeks! Keep up the content, liking the daily vlogs dude :) much love from Cali

[@Alexh650]

Sounds like the stater or a bad ground if its not consistent. It sounds like ground for now. The voltage will be low at idle it should charge around lower to mid range rpm. take it out or prop the wheel up and get the rmp at mid range if its not up then I would replace the stater and the regulator. They usually go bad in pairs. Check your grounds first though. A faulty ground could do this as well.

[@elementalblaze79]

before you add the new stator &/or rectifier you need to check those connections first, grounds included! you may not have a good connection somewhere! when I upgraded my battery to a lipo, my ground to the chassis was rusty (I know yours isn't rusty but it could be not grounded correctly) & after sanding down the rust, I did add some silicon based conductive paste to the connections & the power flows nicely now! also the drop in the battery when you 1st checked it when you turned it to the on (not running) position, maybe due too the lights you have maybe drawing a lot of power & when you started it, it stabilized a bit, but due too either something with the recharging system or any connections with the charging system maybe the reason why it'll only charge to a mid to low charge plus, again some charging systems only work up to a certain speed, over said speed the system can't keep up if it doesn't have a good enough connection! you may need to put larger gauge wires in, change the connector type &/or again make sure it's got the best connection possible!

[@Carlow888]

Your stator might might be lined up wrong.. or its for a lower capacity.. or check on your rectifier.. it might be for a lower engine size and lower voltage output. So instead of over charging it, its just draining your batt on rpm.. but on idle it will give off a charge.. it happend to mine and replaced it with a bigger one, for a big bike a actually and it charges almost to 14.5 and can handle HID, LED, and an air horn. Will a 3 USB and lighter port.

[@gizzync1525]

1 of the diodes in the rectifier could have blown under charging the battery. you can test both stator & rectifier with the meter you have. use the diode mode it will tell you, plenty of youtube vids on how to... stator on ac output. I think i said same thing on your last vid.

[@AnotherBradGuy]

Lmao, Abby and cake. "for two, OKAY" Y'all are great, stoked for you two to be new parents!

[@klievurt]

the cvt gearbox may not be setting to an idle position at start on some occasions and the battery doesn't have the cold crank power to initially push the belt through it also the battery will drop in voltage after startup and idle the stator should be able to hold the voltage around 12 to 12.5 volts until the revs increase then the stator should have more power to charge the battery back up to 13v

[@paulbecket7399]

If you still have problems after switching stator/rectifier you may have a current draw that the battery can't handle try using led headlights

[@SoNotSerious1]

I'm not well informed on GY6 but I'm pretty sure you need a 6 pole stator? Not the stock stator that comes in most GY6 engines. I could be wrong.

[@H2Oredfirefox]

I'm not sure if this will help you but check to make sure that you're getting the correct voltage coming out of your stator I can't advise you on what the voltage should be as every Stator is different

[@robertwilson2588]

Do you have a Rhode Island license plate in the collection?

[@johnferguson1031]

the ruck shop gy6 wire harness are know to have a lot of issues. they run way to many grounds that are not needed. and most have issues with the state wires causing it not to charge the battery

[@davidferris7258]

if you measure the resistance on the stator you can tell if the stator is good and you can look up what numbers it is supposed to be at if it is good when the motor is not running.

[@lkennett]

You can test the stator and rectifier at the connectors without taking anything apart. Stator outputs AC and rectifier converts it to DC. Start testing at the stator and move your way down.

[@marcswain3550]

apart from the rukus would you recommend another scooter that would be cool to do a build on?

[@Rose-oi9iz]

Make sure to check all of the wiring for the charging system as well as reg/rec and stator :) Considering you've had issues with the wiring harness through the build and all of the parts are new the wiring would be first thing I would check.

[@TexasMoto]

when the bike is off, no lights on or anything, the battery doesn't lose voltage (unless you have some sort of parasitic draw). Itshould sit around 12.6 volts. Turn the headlight on and leave it for 30 minutes and you'll see a noticeable drop in voltage. Start it up, you should see around 13.5ish volts. If it doesn't show that, it's probably a bad stator. If it's higher than that, it's probably a regulator/rectifier. Looks like you're in for a stator replacement. I just did the same on my bike. Good luck with it!

[@DaddyRapunz]

Check the stator output before the regulator (in AC) sense the voltage stays at battery voltage it's either the stators not outputting the right voltage or the rectifier has failed. if you are going to just replace things start with the rectifier. if the diodes fail in the rectifier it will send AC current to the battery so it will essentially charge and drain the battery at the same time.

[@jetry6566]

are you sure the ruckus has an issue? I noticed the first time in the drivehrough you left the ignition on acc and the head lights on. and then in this video when you had it on acc again it dropped hella fast?

[@NismotoS14]

What pole stator are you running? I'm gonna guess you didn't swap it and you might have a 8 pole stator. You can swap out to a 11 pole and it will give you a little more power. You might be draining more power they the stator is giving out. You can check if the stator is putting out power. It's most likely a bad regulator. Also sounds like your jetting is a little off. With that cast piston you do not want it to be off. I punched a hole in a 171 cast piston before.

[@edgeofvamp]

I would think given the readings your getting, that you're either having a short or a bad regulator/rectifier(Some R/R's don't handle 11 pole very well).

[@ppulambe8311]

I had to run a heavy ground from the battery to the starter mount. I burned up the ground in my stator. if you see melted plastic on the stator wire... it's a grounding issue. I have the same gy6.

[@mjsalsbury007]

Try changing the regulator rectifier and see if that helps if not the stator is on the way out

[@BurkiesWorld]

The way I used my multi meter which might be different unless this bike has a neutral, you have to rev it and if the regulator is working it shouldn't travel too far past whatever whats the regulator is set to such as 12 volts. If it goes up to 15 16 you might have a bad regulator/ wiring set up, If thats not the case then all thats left would be the stator

[@BurkiesWorld]

and by rev it I mean hold it around 5-6k to see what volts your pushing as that would be a normal light riding rpm

[@heyyamirul]

Try and check the carbs setting, normally you don't need to turn on the choke to stay it idle. Not an expert, but you should try checking it.

[@snapsmanden]

Hey, Try to check your rectifiers connection. Check if the wires are allignet with the colours. you know, green to green, red to red and so on. I had this issue on my bike. The plug/ connection was right, but the wires dindt sit in the right spots. Hope u know what i mean. Best regards.

[@tonyzhuravlev3017]

check 1. grounds 2. wires from stater 3. regulator 4. stater

[@Nui7hari]

You should have around 14V while running... Could be as simple as raising the idle RPM's or there's something wrong with the charging system (Alternator or rectifier etc)

[@rumjar1986]

sucks that stator is fudged or something along those lines. you've looked at the regulator so you've made a good start. I'd also go down as close to the stator and just make sure that nothing is not loose. still probably have to take off the covers and exhaust to do it. :-(

[@isaacmolina6416]

stator is just like a altornator, so it needs a power to excite it to produce power there are a few diagrams you can find on line depending on if it is a single phase or 3 phase stator.

[@drunknpossum]

You should be able to find the specs for the out-put of your stator voltage and you should be able to run an resistance test to check for an open winding. If that output is correct then it more then likely your voltage regulator / rectifier.. Some of those you can't really check because of the solid state parts used in them.. Also you need to find out what that charging system can put out as far as amps, and see with all you have on that bike that is using power isn't going over what that charging system can put out.

[@Black3dirtytouring]

a car build series would be so sick

[@akuanarx]

start your trouble shooting from the stator. triple check all plugs and connections, check your ground wires off the battery with the ohm setting, check your output voltage starting with the stator then rectifier. good service manual is your friend if its applicable for the engine swap. i have time and would be happy to walk you through it if you would like.

[@wildwilco]

during riding, normal bikes batteries go to about 15 volts... thats the charging voltage.. and when you turn the engine off the battery will drop back to 12.6+ volts... (like in yourn case 13.3-13.5)

[@swift9713]

From personal experience, your battery should be at around 14v+ volts when charging/running the bike and somewhere around 12.3-12.6 when off. Either your battery doesn't charge well or your stator isn't charging the battery

[@stavencapp]

some bikes don't charge well at idle. lift the back wheel, test what the voltage is from the battery when the revs are up. if you still don't get above 13.5 then either RR or stator is bad

[@DrFelch]

It's supposed to be 13.8 homey. Charging prob. Another aftermarket part failing right out the box.

[@LockStockNBarrel]

Bro why didn't you hook up the meter to the stator output XD

[@ashleyreading20]

you should be getting around 13.80 to 14, charge while bike running, you need to run volt meter on the cables for the magneto to see you are getting a charge if you ain't there's a problem there or if you have then you have to check all connections, from top off my head it be your magneto, they charge like a car alternator does on the car, hello from the UK

[@clydejenkins3960]

@Motonosity put your stock stator back on the bike and try it with that. those stator are flawed out of the box quite often. I've been working on mopeds and scooters for years, and I've seen it several times. it could be something on the bike (new lights maybe) is burning to much power. Chinese scooters always have a hard time charging their own batterys, even bone stock. you ruckus is a Honda but the motor isn't, you have to remember that lol. my 150 ruck had so many electrical problems I ended up going the kickstart route.

[@89ludeawakening1]

I'm gonna say it's the rectifier that's bad. I bet you popped the diode in it from wiring it wrong when you first wired up the bike.

[@kinguin7]

You need to check the voltage coming out of the stator across each pair of the 3 wires (as in, 1 to 2, 2 to 3, 3 to 1) with your multimeter set to AC voltage. If each of those combos reads 15+ volts (or so, it varies for each model), then the problem is your regulator.

[@lonestarcruzer42]

Didn't you put an 11 pole stator in there? Are you sure the stator and regulator/rectifier are wired up properly? There should be 3 AC wires going from the stator to the reg/rect, since it's a 3 phase unit. Your reg/rect needs to also be a 3 phase unit.

[@adrianwhaleandroid]

the voltage drops to 12.5V because of the incandescent lights. When the bike is running you should be getting 13.5 to 14.5V, depending on the idle rpm.

[@henrik7966]

Is it okay to use engine oil to lube a chain on a dirtbike? I've done this for ages but I'm not 100% sure on what it affects

[@jakesanders16]

Check that rectifier bro. Had the same problem with my monster and it was the rectifier not rectifying, and the stator was fine.

[@lolrpgLP]

whats up with the fuel air ratio

[@Talicea123]

If yo have the lights wired to the ignition switch so that they come on with the key the lights may be using to much power for the stator to ALSO charge the battery.

[@Dumplingu]

hell yeah, I literally just thought "oh, it's motonosity time!" and you just happened to upload it right as I loaded up 😍

[@fatmanvlogerm7148]

Hey man your stater is not pumping out voltage. Need to check your wires and fuses in the charging system. If those are good then most likely the regulator is shot.

[@taxijackmusic]

Heres how to troubleshoot the charging system. 1st step Check the battery voltage with the engine on. you did this. 2nd step Check it at the regulator rectifier plug, normally red and green wires. if you don't find 13.something volts here, youre gonna wanna check the ac side. I believe you checked this also. 3rd step Probe the ac leads which are usually yellow sometimes there is one yellow and one pink, but I believe yours is 3 phase. Check each one to each other, there's no polarity. you're looking for something close to 20 to 30v here. if its like less than 10, your problem is NOT the reg rec. it would be wiring pinched from the engine to the reg rec or a failed stator. do this test with the multi in ac volts. Above tests are with the engine running, but this 4th one should be with the engine off. Check each ac lead with continuity to ground. there should be no continuity. (check with ohms setting) I hope that helps, I know you ordered both but you should be able to return the one not needed. I don't remember what charging system you run but if its some generic Chinese brand system, scrap the reg rec and wire a trail tech equivalent. the Chinese ones can rectify the current (turning ac into dc) but fail to regulate properly. if you read the voltage without the battery connected to average the voltage you will see voltage as high as 17 volts! With overcharging conditions such as this your battery would most likely only last a season. I've learned all this from my current build of converting a vintage kx250 to a street legal dual sport/supermoto. P.S. Still rocking my OPO will probably get the 3 or 3t by summer!

[@HAUNTEDHONDA]

Google checking continuity between the stator wires. It will tell you if the stator is bad. Also google checking the regulator/rectifier with your multimeter. I had the same problem on my CB750 and it ended up being the cheaper part fortunately. Stators aren't usually cheap but could be okay for the Ruckus.

[@locolux]

It's a common problem with gy6 engines, sounds like the stator is shot, it happens very often. I've had it happen 3 times last year

[@jamessprague8267]

12.75 volts is about right for idle, give it some more throttle and the voltage should increase if your stator is working right, shouldnt go over 14.75 volts if working correctly, may want to check your starter connections and make sure they are tight

[@caelcaldwell4436]

Could be your battery cant hold a charge above the 12.8 or whatever it was, might just need that new battery so it has a new full charge voltage..?

[@Technocrazy555]

what i think it is your stator is miswired and there for your not getting a charge to the battery. text pin your stator to check what wire is supposed to be your charge wire.

[@wiborg344]

in my experience with bikes problems like that usually turned out to be a defective or broken regulator rectifier

[@silentj3419]

I wanna see you ride the R3. You know, the one you're buying for the next build.

[@wesblittle1]

The odds of the stator being bad is pretty slim on the new bike . Definitely go with the rectifier/regulator due to you getting some output. I wish you had disconnected the battery once you got it running to see what is coming out of the regular.. not good on modern vehicles but bike should be all good

[@chadshumaker2789]

You have a bad stator or rectifier. You should be up at almost 14v when its running

[@chadshumaker2789]

Your battery should be load tested also (auto parts stores can do that) to see if it is ok (it can go bad due to being drained like it was). It was strange that the voltage dropped as much as it did with just turning the key to on.

[@braaapattack2937]

Chad Shumaker that's because the headlights turn on with the key on which equals a power drawl. Either the stator is bad. Or the rectifier is blown

[@imitt12]

The battery will sit at above 12v for hours, if it's just sitting. The rate at which it was dropping when you had the bike turned on and a load on the battery suggests that it is shot. The charging system is partly the issue, because it should be above 13v when running, and that could be anything from a loose connection to a bad stator. But, replacing the battery should help a lot with your issues.

[@imitt12]

I would also enlist in the help of good ol' Garden Toilet Snake.

[@jimmythetulip4313]

Ok question, how were you able to convert from a regular diet to vegetarian? I tried it once, and I took a very disciplined approach, but in the end after 2 weeks I just couldn't get enough protein to make up for the loss in energy. Any tricks? hints?

[@motonosity]

Your main source of energy isn't from protein, it's carbs. Marketing would have you believe that you need crap tons of protein, but that's just not the case. Tons of research supports 0.82g/lb of body weight as the upper limit of benefit, with most research showing 0.64g/lb as the limit. Anecdotally, the cases I've personally heard from people about having low energy is because they're just not eating a diverse diet and thus aren't getting all the other nutrients they need. Simply because they think, "oh, all I can have is salad and almond milk." There are tons of options, great recipes on line, and awesome meat replacements at grocery stores (you might have to visit a whole foods or something similar, depending on where you live).

[@Kenji_Myst]

Love the way you do your transitions, keep up the good work 👍

[@rustler08]

You can unplug that light and see if it's simply drawing too much power, but it looks like the charging system is the culprit. Whether that's the wiring, stator, rectifier, or a combination is the fun part

[@charleytownsend5725]

Check to see if u have ac voltage coming into regulator if u do bad regulator rectifyer

[@stubzy7331]

Hold the meter on the battery, check the reading at the normal idol speed and then rev the bike up slowly to full revs and hold it for a few seconds (rear wheel not on the floor for obviously reasons). If the reading goes higher as you rev then you know that the battery is taking the load and the stator is working. Also a good idea, go to a workshop and ask if you can use a "battery load tester" and it will tell you if the battery is shot or not. Make sure you charge the battery before using the load tester as it'll give you the fair reading.

[@nicksworld6]

Looking at the video it looks fine from what I can tell, it looks to be a 12V battery and it is a little over that which is good and it's keeping there. It was at 13V when you charged it because the battery's capacity was reached and that's the most it should ever hold. The stator/alternator you have for the bike I'm going to assume is a 12V one so that's why it's keeping it there. If your that concerned about it try upgrading the stator/alternator to get more power to the system to better fulfill your power need. If you have anymore questions about it feel free to email me or ask and I'll be glad to help!!!

[@tobysuttles9559]

When r you going to put the new camshaft

[@jameswallace3557]

The 13.3+ volts you got right off the charger is a result of something called surface charge. You need to let batteries sit about 5 minutes after any sort of charging for it to equalize. Just for future reference