What size surfboard should I learn on? | Beginner Surfer Guide

[@francus7227]

Hey Evan, I know you didn't ask. And there's a good chance you already know AND teach this method. Just in case, here's a short diatribe that may be helpful to you or anyone one reading this.... Efficient paddling is the single most important factor for catching waves..... Paddling is like walking. When we walk, our opposite arm swings in unison with the opposite leg. Left arm forward as the right foot steps forward. Then right arm swings forward as the left foot steps forward. This opposite swinging does two critical things simultaneously. It generates forward momentum, and it creates balance. The same for paddling. 99.0% of beginners paddle dragging their legs/feet.... usually off to the side trying to maintain balance. Which it does. But at the expense of inefficient strenuous paddling, that's slow. The proper way to paddle is with legs together and bent at the knees 90° with the feet directly over the buttock. Then, as the surfer paddles.... When the right arm goes forward, so does LEFT foot. Then.... as the left arm goes forward, so does the right foot. This method is faster and.... like riding a bicycle, when you're moving faster, you're more balanced. The best way to practice this alternating motion is lying on a cooler. You can't practice paddling on the ground. A cooler lets the arms stroke downward below the plane of the belly/board/cooler lid.... Next.... The feet and your head are BALAST. They control the "up/down" height of the nose of the board. Generally, the nose is kept 2 inches (10 cm) off the water line while paddling. BUT ! ! ! That level changes when catching a wave because the wave has arc. So .... As you start paddling towards the beach to catch a wave (using alternating strokes with feet swinging), the front or leading part of the wave will gain on you faster than you can paddle. So, you start to paddle faster and faster. Then the angle of the wave will lift the tail of the board slightly up. That's when you start paddle harder to use this down hill angle to paddle faster than you could on flat water until you're paddling as fast as the wave. To aid in this down hill "race" against the wave....Next, you have to change your BALLAST to controll the nose height. Lower your chin until it's almost resting on the board and move your feet forward... almost over the small of your back. But ! You still have to keep your feet and arms alternating in sync with your paddling strokes. Then.... as you start to catch the wave, the wave is going to simultaneously get steeper and less flat (arc). So.... you're going to have to make a quick adjustment to keep the nose from going under water, which will instantly stop the board ..... sending the paddle off the front.... typically called "pearling". To avoid this: You need to use OPPOSITE BALLAST. You have to lift your head up as high as you can, even arching your back to help, AND move your feet from over the small of your back past "over your buttock" and over the tail of the board by straighting the bend in your knees. By this time, if done correctly, you've caught the wave and paddling is no long needed. Now place your hands on the rails of the board and put your weight on your knees to control the nose from going under water.... Easier said than done for a beginner. But.... if you watch other surfers catching waves (live or on video), you'll see EVERY wave is caught using some version of these fundamentals. Efficient paddling is not only essential for catching waves. It's equally important for getting back out after a ride. If you get out more quickly instead of fighting white water.... while using less energy.... You will catch more waves than the beginner who's dragging their legs because you'll be paddling for waves while the "leg dragger" is fighting the white water and watching you surfing while wondering what they're doing wrong. Lastly.. Once you're standing.... Leaning forward is the GAS. Leaning backward is the BRAKES. Good luck. I tapped the thumbs up button to feed the algorithm monsters.

[@Thompsonsurfschool]

So much detail! Thanks for the great description!!

[@craigieplaysstuff]

A hardboard can better for beginners because they're lighter weight, they maneuver more easily which can be a lifesaver when navigating rip currents and they are also easier for when using the push through technique, the only reason why a beginner wouldn't want one is because they are quite expensive

[@Thompsonsurfschool]

@@craigieplaysstuff the only thing accurate about this comment, is that fiberglass boards are indeed more expensive. Thanks for your feedback though!