What to Do About Weeds in the Garden - Thistle, Bindweed, Garlic Mustard

Understand your weeds and dealing with them becomes so much easier. This is how I deal with them. Canada Thistle, Bindweed, Garlic Mustard and many more.
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What to Do About Weeds in the Garden
List of Credits:
Images:
All slides and videos belong to GardenFundamentals.com or are public domain images, except for the following:
yucca plant www.flickr.com/photos/nrcs_so...
field bind weed www.flickr.com/photos/brewboo...
bind wee growing through pavement www.flickr.com/photos/9602574...
canada thistle www.flickr.com/photos/nature8...
perslane commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...
garlic mustard commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi...

[@GARDENER42]

My late father described a weed as "a plant in the wrong place" & his other saying was "never let a weed see a Sunday". I do my best to base weed control on those two.

[@thenatureofthenashes1362]

A local county extension agent used to host a call in radio show every Saturday morning. A lady called in perplexed about something growing in her flower bed and described it and wanted to know if it was a flower or a weed. The host’s response was : “Do you like it?” 😅

[@aalejardin]

Great information, thanks! Landscape fabric is terrible --- it was the favorite solution of the former owner of my property and there are layers and layers of the stuff because, as you know, after a few years the mulch breaks down and the weeds move back in. I am pulling it up right and left and planting my garden thickly with layers of shrubs, perennials and ground covers.

[@sandyhultgren4140]

I've been a gardener for decades and I always learn so much from you. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

[@Nocare89]

I don't mind dandelions much. I don't let them crowd and if I do need to get rid of one, it can just be pulled up like a carrot. Dandelion, dead nettle, and clover is all over just as winter ends. The one that's been annoying for me is just blackberry vines. I've made progress getting rid of it but its a lot of work over a long time haha

[@mystic24100]

I got Canada Thistle in my 1 acre hay field and have been fighting it for years. Sometimes I spray and sometimes I dig. When digging I use a tile spade and cut the root at least 3 inches below the ground. Thanks for this video.

[@dankeener3307]

Creeping Charlie also called ground ivy is our weed that’s challenging to get rid of. It is edible so I pull some, eat some and realize it won’t grow too tall and try not to let it upset me. Great video.

[@abrotherinchrist]

My friend planted a raised bed by adding a bunch of twigs and branches to the bottom, adding a lot of manure froma local farmer he knew, some chicken scratch and then planted daikon radishes. Once they grew he covered the whole bed with a tarp and let it all rot. Evidently most of the weeds that popped up got smothered out and everything rotted into a great compost. His bed was very productive.

[@teebob21]

I love my dandelions, even in my yard. I cut them off at the soil surface or just below. Yes, most of the time, they regrow. Like the burdock, I just keep harvesting it for compost greens amd letting the taproots harvest nutrients out of my subsoil for me.

[@abrotherinchrist]

One thing I've heard that seems to make some sense is to smother weeds out with other, more desirable plants, like edible cover crops. Depending on what you grow you can plant directly in the cover crop. Another method is planting tillage radishes and letting it overwinter and terminate just as spring is gearing up. Th idea is that you are putting roots in the ground to keep it healthy and alive. Whatever you terminate is compost. Another channel I watch, David the Good, says just chop and drop weeds before they seed for an easy compost. He calls himself the lazy gardener.

[@simonpannett8810]

Purslain is great for eating -raw or in soups! Best young and tender but easy to pull out when older. Seeds will go everywhere!

[@theressomelovelyfilthdownh4329]

Good, solid advice on dealing with weeds.

[@judymckerrow6720]

Thank you Mr. P 🪻💚🙃

[@79PoisonBreaker]

canadien thistle is not a battle it's a long term war haha. I've seen it pop through black top parkinglots. I'm 4 years in my war vs a thistle patch that was left alone to grow for about 5 years reaching as tall as 6-8 feet. I am wining and there is less mass to keep track of each year. Interestingly where the thistle patch was/is was not good for growing much before and since I began the war it is the most productive ground so it's not all horrible but is lots of diligent work.

[@gigiartstudiowithartistvir3919]

Bindweed is everywhere in my garden. It hasn't been a real problem though because it's easy pull out and control. Pigweed and kochia are the biggest problem weed because thousands of them were allowed to go to seed(prior to me getting control of the property)and I know millions of seeds are in that ground.

[@deepakvakil5130]

😊 ok onlylu

[@markhoerner2354]

Thank you. You always educate me to the things that I had to learn the hard way. Very well thought out and most importantly corresponds to the realities of gardening. The scientific method, love it. Unlike most YT advice programs your principles are sound no matter the local ecology. Very much appreciated from the maritime Oregon coast.

[@leifkemp]

Such GREAT information! 💪🏼❤️

[@karinhamann5019]

Very informative talk,

[@marklundeberg7006]

8:00 that wood crate thing is so cool! I always wondered how they did it.

[@agardenbeyondparadise9787]

Great information! Canada thistle is a pain to get rid of. My problem weed is Japanese knot weed, it's one of those weeds that spreads underground and seeds like crazy.

[@GARDENER42]

If you can use Roundup/Glyphosate then it'll kill it in the end. Took me four years to clear a 50 metre by 15 metre thicket of the stuff but it's not come back in 5 years. Spray with the above in late May/early June, then repeat on any growth which appears by mid-late August. Anything after that, just cut off. Repeat annually until no new growth appears. OK, so it leaves a 'dead' area for that time but anything's better than knotweed (or Himalayan balsam, ground elder, creeping thistle...)

[@barbaramcinnis4168]

Thanks for the information. I have saw grass that I fight & haven’t been very successful

[@duikerlosmond4161]

in Southern Western Australia we have the Arum Lily which is also extremely invasive and is taking over tho produces a lovely white flower. it is spread a lot from birds and is commonly found under trees.

[@DK6060]

I bought an urban property covered garlic mustard. I’ve hand pulled most of if over several years, and composted most of it without a problem. The first year rosettes are not a problem, and any early season second year plant is also fine, but once they send out seed heads, they go in the garbage.

[@ASpinnerASpinner]

Lily of the Valley is a rhizome. That's why it spreads so easily and fast and hard to control. The seeds are not nearly they problem that the rhizome system is in terms of spreading (as seems to be the case with all non-native rhizomes lol). It's also an invasive to all over North America. "Invasive" defined as non-native, aggressive and therefore contributes to local/regional ecosystem-degradation (where it is not native).

[@teebob21]

Field bindweed is why I cant use the Ruth Stout method or other "just mulch, bro" methods in my garden. Without conventional cultivation methods like hoeing, bindweed would take over my garden. It will grow through 2 feet of heavy mulch, and I've even seen it grow THROUGH a concrete patio.

[@robertreznik9330]

Bindweeds are a big problem in the Western High Plains area. I use Quinclorac. I have to have a licence to buy it for the farm at 75% Weed-b-gon has .5%. I think it is sold to gardeners in small amounts at 40% Quinstar is 75% in granular for about $80 in the lb container. It takes 1/4 oz to kill 1000 square ft. It is mainly a broad leaf herbicide.

[@guyvanooteghem8531]

Equisetum arvense is considered by many vegetable gardeners to be a stubborn and unwanted weed. Its rhizomes can penetrate meters deep into the soil and they break easily when you try to remove them. Some gardeners go to quite some lengths to combat them. But precisely because of those very deep roots, it is a useful plant in the vegetable garden. It brings nutrients from deep within the soil, where the vegetables cannot reach, up to the surface. So, I let them grow, and after a while, I pull them out to use as mulch and extra nourishment among the vegetables. And by plucking them regularly, the roots don't grow strong enough to take over the entire garden.

[@timflatus]

Such great advice which chimes with other successful growers I know. I guess you don't have so much trouble with blackberry brambles - another one that needs digging out in the UK - you can practically see them growing they grow so fast.

[@TheTrock121]

Could you do a video on vegetables that are too aggressive to grow in your regular veg garden? It took us a while to get rid of Jerusalem Artichokes and I only grow Horseradish in containers, for instance.

[@DA-gq6kt]

Thank you for your wonderful explanation. I used to love mulching. Sometimes I used straw and at other times I used dead leaves. Well, after a year or two german cockroaches started living in both types of mulch and became a huge nuisance. Have you encountered such a problem?

[@amirfar1]

Thanks for your thoughtful advice. Do you advice in controlling Mugwort? Once we got mulch delivered by truck load and that may have the infestation. Have tried cutting them used herbicides, used mulch، etc. Like to hear if you have a method aside from your general instructions. Thanks😊

[@RCohle452]

Another weedy plant that has both efficient seed dispersal and hardy roots is the mediterranean squirting cucumber ( Ecballium elaterium)

[@tonyschaffer3853]

Organic farmers plant “good” weeds. Vineyards do this quite a bit. I usually see mustard weeds planted in the rows between the vines. Usually the explanation is to help with soil balance and attracting bugs that will keep hostile bugs out of the vineyard. Are there any “good” weeds?

[@wmpx34]

No, because by definition, a weed is an unwanted plant. If you’re growing it intentionally, it isn’t a weed. Could be a cover crop or companion plant or whatever you want to call it

[@jeil5676]

Gout weed or ground elder is a big problem for me spreading through a long perennial bed. I dont want to mulch before the perennials emerge and the weed grows so fast. It started with a variegated variety which stayed in a clump and wasnt a big problem but the seed grew non variegated which spreads and covers everything. I've honestly been considering introducing perrywinkle to compete with it but that might be even more of an issue.

[@DavidMFChapman]

Periwinkle will slow down the spread of gouteeed, but they end up intertwined. Both are invasive; however I find that PW is much easier to control because the roots are shallow. Both really need to be physically contained. Another ally is big root geranium. A barrier of these plants will halt the spread of GW. It also spreads, but it’s very easy to remove.

[@jeil5676]

@@DavidMFChapman thanks stranger

[@laurabartoli5909]

Following from Australia. I've found it hard to deal with onion grass here. I mulch and it grows through it. When you try to dig it out, the little bulbs on the roots break off and new plants come up. Sheet mulching then compost on top and straw on top of that doesn't stop it for long either. Any advice?

[@amandarossouw493]

For all new gardners in the GTA can you please tell us where we can get straw. Thanks

[@TheTrock121]

At least 75 % of our weeds are edible. I try to control them w/ mulch but do pull the edible ones to feed to the chickens. Stinging Nettle is the worst weed I've had to contend w/ to get rid of it I had to destroy an 80' blackberry patch digging down 16" and turning over 20 or 30 tons of soil by hand to remove every root, then do it a second time the next year. I've since replanted, but still have to watch for the Nettles sneaking back up the bank.

[@markfrick318]

Hairy bittercress every where in W Pennsylvania this year

[@shawnsg]

Same for me in the South and I never realize that it's mature until I'm walking around and hear and feel the stupid seeds flying everywhere.

[@nbeizaie]

My nightmares: blue bells, bindweed.

[@mandarinmelon]

Using straw for mulch -What about Aminopyralid herbicides? Have you covered this topic before?

[@Yesimthatkid]

Try growing your own rye wheat over winter to use as mulch

[@joanfrellburg4901]

The dog strangling vine is already laughing at me, and I haven't even gone outside yet. It's rampant in my area, and the nearby forest floor is covered in it.

[@kbjerke]

Definitely harvest and eat the Garlic Mustard!! I have lots of it.

[@mariagillinson8527]

Vinegar and salt really works on weeds but has to be sprayed several time till it’s killed.

[@johnm100]

I’ve been trying to rid my flower bed of Spider Wort for nearly 15 years. I can’t believe they sell it in garden centers.

[@gabriellakadar]

Round Up kills Burdock. Bindweed is a tougher customer. Selective spraying works well but you have to let the Bindweed grow about a foot tall. There's another thistle that has runners too. Really hard to tease them out because the runners fracture easily. Couch grass is another nuisance. What I am unable to get rid of is Comfrey. Doesn't matter if I dig down a foot deep and remove woody roots. It comes right back because it's impossible to get all the roots out. Round Up will affect the leaves but the root system is so robust, it continues to produce new stems. We've been working for several years to create a native plant/flower/pollinator garden. First up is Garlic mustard and then Burdock. Then Dog Strangling Vine and Comfrey. Dog Strangling vine is another difficult plant to control because Round Up doesn't really kill it with any efficacy. According to what I've read on the Ontario government website, they need to apply Round Up multiple times and even then it can take a couple of years to eliminate these. Cutting it off below the crown seems to work. I don't need to remove all the roots which are somg ugly tough fibrous things. 'They' claim if you pull on the stem, it won't kill the plant but in fact it will so long as you get the crown part. Just use a steady force so it doesn't break off above the soil line. I try to not pull weeds out because it just disturbs the soil, and as you mentioned, the weed seed bank is a rich source of more weeds. Pulling weeds is akin to cultivating the soil. If I have to do this, I immediately mulch with a few inches of wood chips, otherwise it's a fool's game. DNA analysis of the Garlic Mustard in this region originated from the British Isles. Seems people who settled here were growing it on purpose for food uses. I don't know how Galinsoga got here from South America. It will grow in the shade, anywhere. The richer the soil, the faster it grows and it produces thousands of seeds. People dry it, powderize it and add it to chicken soup in Colombia. Some chichi restaurants add it to 'foraged' salad. It doesn't taste too bad but it's hairy. You left out Stinging Nettles. Another spring edible, difficult to eradicate but not impossible if each stem is removed from below the crown. Wear good gloves. I use thick welder's gloves because regular garden gloves are too short and the stingers get my forearm. Wild Grape vines are another baddie. It takes a lot of consistent work to cut them off at soil level and keep going back every year so they don't strangle bushes and trees. Supposedly if the stump is covered to prevent sunlight from reaching it, the plant will not produce new vines. I think consistent removal will eventually starve out the root. So you've got my 'hit list' here.

[@ericscott3194]

Has anyone had much luck using a torch to burn weeds such as quack, crab, thistle, bine weed?

[@dac7046]

I’ve used a torch extensively on bindweed. It’s an easy and fun (but expensive) way to remove top growth but it doesn’t harm the plant any more than chopping off with a hoe. I’ve used torches, mix of 2, 4D and glyphosate (works pretty well), blackout tarps (doesn’t work), dense cover crop (helps a lot), thick mulch over cardboard and hand digging literally every square inch of entire half acre garden and my 5th year noticed I wasn’t spending much time anymore on bindweed. My advice is: - hit it with the 2,4D/glyphosate mix, regrow substantially, hit again then plant cover crop. - next Spring dig as deep as you can every square inch of garden and remove every hint of root then smother with cardboard/mulch or another cover crop. - all the while dig up every bindweed plant/root that dares show itself.

[@FarmerCheryl]

Are mushrooms considered weeds, too? Got some mushroom compost. It was not finished. Now have to get rid of all the mushrooms germinating. Any suggestions?

[@musictech85]

Mushrooms are generally a good thing. They are breaking down organic matter to make it available for your plants. They do not compete with plants.

[@jerrybessetteDIY]

Are they edible?

[@gedelgo3242]

Why do you need to get rid of them? You bought mushroom compost for the benefit of fungi and it has fungi in it which are benefiting you.

[@FarmerCheryl]

@@gedelgo3242 I didn’t buy the mushroom compost myself. The mushroom compost is still decomposing. So, this is setting me back on what I had planned to grow. As the weather warms, I still need to weed it. I’m trying to figure out how long the mushroom compost will last, so I can plan using other soil amendments and composts.

[@joelschmierer3544]

my property is surrounded on all sides by vineyards, so maybe it doesnt matter what invasive stuff is growing here because the vinneyards owners will just exterminate if it steps one inch on their properties

[@EmeseVida]

Lilly of the valley is so beautiful!!! You just need to control it, don't be lazy.

[@michigan160]

Bind weeds are going to be the death of me!

[@jeanpauldupuis]

Garlic mustard is wonderful. First spring salad!

[@kated3165]

My neighbor PLANTED lily of the valley, and now its a yearly hell battle to keep it from invading my beds. 🤦‍♀

[@Damselfly54315]

EAT THE EDIBLE ONES

[@msdebbiep]

Curses, bindweed!!

[@chuckbogdanowitz2785]

Most the plants are madicinal.

[@monikel]

I hate tap roots I call them "f.king parsnips" 😀

[@jedadruled984]

I think mulch may reduce oxygen in the soil.

[@joanies6778]

Dandelion has to be pulled from the taproot. Any buds left in the dirt or on the ground will go to seed, so I find I have to be sure there are no buds at the base. We get various thistle here, too. I absolutely refuse to use chemicals in my yard. My property has been all organic for at least 40 years, possibly longer. My neighbor used to have tons of worms, but he claims they don't find many now. His brother made a beautiful lawn for them to enjoy, but he uses "Weed n Feed" to fertilize it and control the weeds. I do have to pull weeds, but my yard is RICH with earthworms and garden critters! 🤗🪱🐞🐛🦋🌻🐛

[@marklundeberg7006]

My understanding is that herbicides are mostly ok for worms. The main thing you want to give them is decaying organic matter - compost, mulch, whatever. If I recall right, no till farming uses lots of herbicide but there are plenty of worms as the farmers tend to leave the crop residue as mulch. In contrast worms aren't going to get any nutrition from synthetic fertilizer, so a "clean garden" with no decaying matter may indeed end up worm-free.

[@user-qr3nz1wi2j]

Apologies from England, the weeds not already native to USA will have come from here, along with ivy & several others. Here you will be charged $5 for one or two Lilly of the valley in a pot! The thistle you showed is our creeping thistle, spreads by both seed and fast runners upto 6 foot a year If I just pulled out the top 3” of a dandelion I’d expect the remaining root to laugh in my face😂 The garlic mustard is our jack by the hedge, an important food source for several beautiful butterflies we have like the green veined white. I was always taught a weed is just a plant in the wrong place. Thank you for your calm, clear, well informed videos