What To Do for Your Fruit Trees NOW in Fall (Plus a Couple of Don'ts...)

[@mattcampbell6379]

Great information. I have an apple tree that I planted nearly 3 years ago, it has grown very little in that time; however this year it had one new growth that shot up about 2-3 feet. At a loss on what to do with the tree, trim that one branch to be more in line and hopefully force growth elsewhere or use that as a new liter and try and save the tree.

[@1324jm]

I am in the same conundrum. It's funny, because it is the tree that produces fruit, while the one that grows like gangbusters has nothing to show for it.

[@Gkrissy]

I have a Fuji apple Tree that’s is the same. I got a soil test and the area is deficient in nitrogen.

[@TheFruitGrove]

That's tricky, not sure what I'd recommend. Is the new growth coming from above the graft union? Sudden vigorous growth might mean a sucker growing from the rootstock. If that's not the issue, there may be some nutrient deficiency, or maybe a drainage problem that's keeping the tree stunted. Good luck!

[@TheFruitGrove]

Sometimes a tree under a little stress fruits better than a super vigorous "happy" tree - survival instinct!

[@jamestyrer6067]

THANKS FOR THIS INFORMATION 👍 I ALSO ADD MULCH IN THE FALL BUT I PUT SOME OF THE TREES LEAVES UNDER THE MULCH TO BREAK DOWN. ONLY IF THE LEAVES ARE HEALTHY LOOKING !

[@TheFruitGrove]

Absolutely! I should have clarified better in the video, but I only keep leaves directly under fruit trees if they are healthy. I have such high disease pressure in my area that the leaves usually have some sort of rust, or other issues, and I don't want to risk overwintering disease or pests.

[@reneawiggins1704]

Definitely need information on spraying all type of fruit trees.

[@TheFruitGrove]

Noted! I'm working on something for this winter. It's a complex topic that depends a lot on where you live, but I'm happy to share my experience and tips.

[@odimarbatista3976]

Back yard fruit grower here, zone 6a/b (depending on winter temps) I agree with some of the comments here calling for leaving leaf litter under the tree. If there’s strong disease pressure spray the litter as well and if you mulch over the litter (also a must, mulch), spray the litter before applying the mulch and then spray the mulch too. Pruning, as hard as it may be, needs to be done. Specially on stone fruits, most definitely in late winter/early spring (promotes growth), also around the solstice in summer (controls size and keeps light and air circulating and can be done to thin the fruit set as well, also highly recommended for yearly, not biannual or rare production), in fall for diseased and dead branches, never in early or mid winter. For organic spraying alternate between neems oil , copper fungicide and kaolin clay. I start with neems late winter/early spring and a week later the fungicide. In between I do a feed/spray of diluted 3 H2O: 1 milk: 248mg of aspirine. Kaolin clay on the third week, then after fruit has formed as it will interfere with pollination. After the first application, neems and copper fungicide every two weeks at evening/early night. I repeat the milk and ASA after solstice pruning and after harvest. By then, fruit should be set and kaolin clay is sprayed w the milk and asa, after pruning. Note that by then, depending on your disease pressure and weather, spray kaolin often, definitely after rain to ensure coverage till harvest. I also do a couple hands full of worm castings 4-6 times/season and a couple shovels of compost at early spring, mid summer and after harvest. I make my own version of IV organics w kaolin clay and essential oils and apply it to the trunk at early spring and late fall. You can also dilute that w more water and spray it on the leaves for pest control. I use this kaolin clay diluted mix on all my vegetables. Follow this schedule and water twice a week. If your soil is not deficient to begin with no need to fertilize and you’ll have the healthiest and juiciest fruit and produce you can imagine. I may sound like a lot of work, but the reward is indiscribable. Best of luck!

[@TheFruitGrove]

Yes! I do leave leaf litter that is healthy, but I have crazy high disease pressure and the quickest way for diseases and pests to spread is by overwintering in debris. The leaves I was raking in the video fell due to rust (on the fig tree) and some bacterial spot damage (peach trees). No way I was leaving those on the ground. But I do leave healthy leaves and pine needles and grind them up into mulch. Thanks for sharing your tips!

[@ubuntunewb]

I'm in East Texas too, I'm looking forward to your channel. I've had issues with my soil being too wet, got any tips on dealing with this, I'm going to plant my next trees above ground level and do a nice top soil+compost+mulch slopped bed

[@TheFruitGrove]

Hello fellow East Texan! I think mounding up the soil and planting above ground level is your best option to help with drainage. You can also dig down a little and add compost to the top foot of soil.

[@ubuntunewb]

@TheFruitGrove ya I'm considering ellen white hole with mounding for proper root flare drainage.

[@mlhjrg2002]

Yes please more dormant spray tips. I had a huge problem with borers on my stonefruit this year and actually lost 2 plumcots that i just planted!

[@TheFruitGrove]

I'm working on something for this winter! It's a complex topic, but I'm happy to share my suggestions. Borers are the worst - hang in there!

[@patnelson3811]

Yes do share spray tips please!

[@TheFruitGrove]

Will do!! Working on something for this winter. It's a complex topic that's very location-dependent, but I know how helpful it is when other gardeners share their experience and tips.

[@Moochy999]

OMG, leave your leaves on the ground under the tree as nature intended, Wrong advice. If you have them add 4 to 6 inches of wood chips as a mulch under your trees also.

[@TheFruitGrove]

I hear you - and I do leave healthy leaves (I could have clarified this better in the video). But I have a ton of disease pressure, and the quickest way for disease and pest issues to spread is by overwintering in infected debris on the ground. I generally rake up my fruit leaves, but make a mulch out of other healthy leaves and pine needles that I spread around under my fruit trees. In the video, the fig tree leaves had fallen due to rust (which has run rampant in my area this year), and the peach trees had issues with bacterial spot from a rainy spring. But YES to leaving disease-free leaves.