When To Buy a New 2 Stroke Pipe

[@vasilvassilev4180]

2 stroke pipes might not increase the power output of the bike but they definitely change the power delivery. There is a noticeable difference between the fmf fatty and gnarly. Especially when ridden back to back.

[@enduromuki]

100 percent agree

[@ClarkWells7]

Stole my comment! Was just about to type this up to Kyle. IMO, they can be totally worth it if you do it strategically.

[@alexjoseph4665]

How would you describe the difference between the fatty/gnarly?

[@Recedinghairline180]

@@alexjoseph4665 fatty will give you power at higher rpm, gnarly more torque down low but signs off early.

[@bushbasher69]

@@Recedinghairline180 sounds like gnarly would be great for most people then

[@flashdrz]

Sometimes you replace one when you can afford it.

[@unknowntravelers540]

How it is for some of us 👍🏼

[@Likbaby711]

Amen

[@milkbones8617]

Exactly, not everyone is living a luxury lmao

[@austinthacker7589]

I guess I missed what you guys are saying in this video, he said run it until you can't anymore and then buy the cheapest 1 you can get?

[@VinSylvester]

EXACT OPPOSITE of what he said. He said don’t spend any extra money in till you literally can’t run it or fix it anymore. It’s like you only hear what you want and so you can criticize. He’s trying to provide helpful insight on not wasting money actually.

[@P2DAPIPE]

Project Farm needs to test how strong these pipes are 👍

[@muppets_inc]

Down here in Oz, the price for new expansion pipe and a quality (P-Tech) guard are the same. So rather than buying a new pipe every year (or every couple of months with my dodgy riding), a one-off purchase for the guard made more sense, and it will last as long as I keep the bike for. They don't weigh that much, however I do see the other side of the argument about adding weight and an extra 15-20mm in the width of the bike. Each to their own, as always.

[@TM-lw8wn]

make your own pipes. OR If you have a dent that does not affect fit too much you can drill a 1/2" hole in the opposite side of the pipe and using a steel drift or flat punch push the dent out while heating the dented area with a torch, works best with 2 people. Weld the hole shut and you are done.

[@Hustler9g]

IF YOU HAVE A YZ250 GET A FMF GNARLY PIPE. Just got one and it made a world of difference. It really helps the motocross bike in the woods. I've run stock, pro circuit motocross pipe, fmf fatty, and this gnarly. I could totally tell the difference between all 4 and for low end grunt for enduro the gnarly is heads and shoulders better than everything. The fatty is also great but is more midrange and bit less bottom end.

[@carlatamanczyk3891]

I just tried a Pro Circuit on my 300 Beta - it softened the bottom end too much... Going to put my Gnarly back on.

[@chadrides914]

Agree with you Riley. My experience was the same on two separate yz250’s. I haven’t put one on an X model as of yet although I may try it soon.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Thanks. I have the 2019 YZ250 and just picked up the Gnarley and Pro circuit Platinum 2 pipe. No mounted yet, but i can tell by looking at them that the Gnarly is tuned for more low end power than the PC. I also build 2-stroke engines for a living, and I know the later YZ's have a pretty low compression head. So when I rebuild the top end next weekend, this is what I will add with the new Gnarley pipe. 1) Adding v-force reeds, and I may remove the spacer if possible, (won't know until I look at it apart), to boost primary compression (in the cases). 2) Removing the .5mm cylinder base gasket and using a good sealer to seal the cylinder to the cases. This sill lower the exhaust port time a bit, to better match the lower rpm tuned pipe. 3) I also have an older YZ head (2011 I believe), that does have more compression. (take .0085" off the stock one's gasket surface to be the same). I would use that head if I did not lower the cylinder. I expect it to rip from low rpm's at that point, and be able to short shift it an not lose acceleration. Thank for your post. I am sure I bought the right pipe for my application.

[@davidbennett5837]

Pipes do change power. Sometimes pipes can add power here but it takes it from there. Newer 2 strokes stock pipes are very good in tune where as older bikes stock pipes left power on the table so upgrading to an aftermarket pipe yielded better results. A dented pipe, large dents, can cause a change in power and can cause a 2 stroke to run hotter if dented enough. For a fraction of the cost of a new pipe there are pipe repair places that do great work. The last reason one should consider changing a pipe is because of carbon build up which wasn't even covered in the video. The same amount of carbon that gets deposited on the piston will get in the forward section of the pipe effectively changing the volume which changes the tune. Aftermarket pipes are also made of thicker guage steal than the stock euro pipes making them more dent resistant yet none are dent proof.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

It is not the volume of the pipe. It is the geometry of the pipe that causes suction and the reverse wave action for the super charging effect. I don't think anybody actually measures the volume of a pipe when designing them. Also, if a bike is jetted well, there will be very little carbon build up. 100% of stock 2-stroke bikes (with carbs) could use re-jetting because they come from the factory rich. And I would say 95% of the 2-stroke running could use cripser jetting, because few people actually jet their bike correctly.

[@ronaldlezar1301]

Kyle, here in South Africa we use stainless steel exhaust cages, they pretty much protect the pipe from anything.

[@knights518]

Those pipe are still in good shape compared to Chris from trail bound 😂

[@DirtBikeChannel]

Haha.. I've ridden with Chris.

[@michaelbielaski3543]

Pipes definitely make a difference in power, torque, or the delivery of those; more noticeable when ridden back to back.

[@tieoneon1614]

Couldnt help but stare past them 2 stroke trumpets and eye balling that SEF 300. Looking forward to you riding it Kyle!

[@1Sano]

I totally agree with you. Only replace it when it doesn’t fit or you have a leak at the header. Love your channel.

[@M4TT4TT4CK]

I have a leak at my header, but the pipe doesn't seem bent or beat up much at all. I was thinking about using some high temp silicon grease to fix it...

[@EarthSurferUSA]

@@M4TT4TT4CK If you re-jet the carb well,--the messy leaks go away, and power valves stay cleaner with less carbon build up. Plus, you will probably gain about 2hp.

[@alabamadirtrider]

Perfect timing, Kyle! I just picked up my first 2-stroke, largely based on the past couple years of your videos. A 2020 300 XC, I'm very excited! Now I can save some money on a pipe, which I don't need. Yet :) Keep up the great work, I find your content very informative!

[@maxbalogh5507]

P Tech skid plate pipe guards are the best way to protect the pipe, fitment is great and protection is unbeatable.

[@6226superhurricane]

i never considered an expansion chamber a throwaway item . just keep fixing the same one.

[@chadrides914]

Same

[@DirtBikeChannel]

I didn't say it was throw away. When they don't fit anymore, I replace them.

[@markstrahlendorf3363]

Once you get the dents out you can tweak the goose neck to get a good fit on the engine. They aren't that hard to bend back in shape.

[@250txc]

@@DirtBikeChannel You can do that but people can straighten that back out like new. People have made gigs for that neck damage ... Fixing them for about 1\2 the cost of a new pipe.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

@@DirtBikeChannel All thsoe dents. If those were not make with a a hammer for this vid, you should stop running into stuff so often. That is the only reason why a pipe that used to fit may not anymore. But,--I am not talking from experience there. :)

[@nuthintoprove]

Always had good results with FMF pipes. Never with pro circuit and I’ve tried at least 10 on various bikes through the years. Slow circuit kills low end torque up till peak prm then might add a 1hp

[@jakobschweitzer5117]

I always repair my pipes, for dents i use air pressure and a torch, if they are wors i cut them open and tig werd them back together or fix cracks that way

[@braydonbeshirs4615]

How do you get the pressure to hold in there?

[@rztrzt]

@@braydonbeshirs4615 Clamps & plugs.

[@jazzaadam]

I pick up my first bike tomorrow! Keen as

[@bikeandfarm2940]

What’s the bike?

[@Danman1972]

What until it gets to beat to run. Then buy a new one. Send the other off to get fixed (pacific coast pipe repair does a good job). Hang it in the garage when it comes back until the aftermarket one gets to beat to run. Send it off and run the stocker until it gets back.

[@AlaTrick]

I recently repaired my gnarly pipe. Compressed air plus hi temp flame. Then cut it into pieces, bending them to original shape, and weld them together. Works great! And there is no need for spending usd250

[@EarthSurferUSA]

I fixed a dented pipe once, and it worked great. All I did was seal up the pipe and pumped about 30psi into it with a tire pump. Then with a propane torch in one hand, and a wet rag in the other, I just heated up the dent until it moved out. When it moved out almost perfectly, I hit it with the wet rag to stop the movement. It was a painted pipe, (not chromed), and all I did was re-paint it. If you do something once and it turned out good, that is a good process. :)

[@littlewing60]

what about using your hydraforce.... works great for me.

[@redneck272]

He never got one sent to him for free

[@gavinkeller4729]

I’ve heard they are unsafe but if it works I’d do it

[@torinforsyth7568]

@@gavinkeller4729 more safe than air

[@rztrzt]

@@gavinkeller4729 Much safer than air, water barely compresses unlike air.

[@NirHason]

@@gavinkeller4729 Much safer than air. I used my HydraForce for more than 10 times and if something goes wrong (too much PSI) the o-ring is just failing and the water goes out from there.

[@LMJee]

I don’t even own a 2-stroke but I just sat through this whole video.

[@riccochet704]

I agree. 2 strokes I replace when the pipe is beat beyond being useful. Whether to go with OEM, FMF, PC, wellll....for me, it's whichever has the lowest price at the time. Save your money for other upgrades that are actually effective.

[@mattschaper2915]

probably the biggest change you can do to your bike in terms of power (other than jetting ofc) every aftermarket pipe's are shaped in different ways which effects how gases get sucked back in, definitely effects power

[@riccochet704]

@@mattschaper2915 Doesn't increase power. It moves the power band. And not by much. You can move it right back with a different length muffler.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

@@riccochet704 Wanna bet? The YZ250 2-stroke today is more of a screamer in an effort to keep up with the faster 4-stroke on a fast track, (which is not going to happen), and with the FMF Gnarley, and a couple other things lie a v-force reed and lowering the cylinder a bit, it will me a low rpm monster that I will be able to shift as fast as I can and not fall off the "pipe". The silencer has little effect compared to a tune pipe at a different peak rpm tune. As fast as parts you can bolt on a bike, the pipe is the #1 bolt on item that can change the power delivery the most. Now I have not always been right during my last 20 years of porting 2-stroke engines, but I know I am right here, and I know this man is wrong.

[@iandavin9224]

this is my favorite dirt bike you tube channel keep up the good work kyle :)

[@RDHZRD]

Wow I never thought about impacts from the bottom bending the goose neck, thanks Kyle you saved me some cash on a carbon pipe guard.

[@hedbngr18]

2 stroke pipes don't necessarily add power, it just moves the powerband around in the rpm range. To add power you have to improve airflow with porting, intake tract and silencer changes.

[@eemilqq]

Except when you have a stuffy 50cc and a pipe with all restrictions possible :D. Then new pipe will make a whole lot of difference.

[@hedbngr18]

@@eemilqq I don't disagree, but the silencer is still where most of the restriction is even in that scenario. I've ridden many bikes with stock pipes and aftermarket silencers and it made a world of difference. Plus, not many of us watching this video are on 50cc bikes anymore. 😋

[@EarthSurferUSA]

If it is a higher rpm pipe than stock, (but not too much for the stock porting), you will gain hp in the higher rpm's, but it will also narrow the power curve and make less power at lower rpm's.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

@@hedbngr18 The stinger diameter/length effect is from pressure differences, where the pipe is tuned for the sound wave timing. If you have a bigger stinger, the pipe pressure will be lower, and low rpm will probably suffer. But at higher rpm's the engine can breath better and not get as hot. The stinger has nothing to do the the vacuume, (caused by the pipe getting bigger in diameter), or the sound wave for the super charging effect, (caused by the reverse cones that get smaller in diameter.)

[@HochstartHarry]

As a fabricator for 2 stroke exhausts i can tell you, always change your pipe before every ride 😂 nah jk, i totally agree with you on the change when its broken. But i work mostly with old 1970-1990 small displacement 2 strokes and i can change your engines feel with ease.. Not necessarily more power, but in a diffrent spot. So if the stock engine is making 6hp at 6000rpm i can change that to 7hp at 8000rpm.. Ofcourse that also requires a porting for the cylinder.. But if you come in with your enduro that has 17hp at 12k and want more bottom end, i can build you a long pipe and take that down to 17hp at 9000rpm. I love calculating and experinenting with pipes, so ive got a very decent lineup of configurations i know will work well on certain engines/cylinders and ports. Also ive done a max pipe which increased hp on a 85ccm simson moped with all the same parts to 23hp, the starting point was 16hp. All i did was exhaust trickery and a rejet.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

I also have a manufacturing and a quality engineering degrees, so I can help you gear up for higher volume production.

[@JETZcorp]

Let me just say that if you have a vintage bike, getting a new pipe becomes a HUGE upgrade. With modern bikes you're really picking the fly shit out of the pepper, but on older machines there's tons of low-hanging fruit. The older it is, the more gains there are to grab. Btw, I've been riding for 20 years and never needed to replace a pipe due to condition. Hard enduro guys who crash and smash constantly as a matter of course will have that, but I typically fall about once per season so it's not a problem. So it's a wear item for Kyle, but a performance part for a guy like me. Different strokes.

[@mattschaper2915]

If your racing either enduro or moto there is a noticeable difference when changing from stock pipe to after market (negative or positive), being how the power is delivered from the bottom and top end.

[@DirtBikeChannel]

Having swapped more than 2 dozen pipes over the last 10 years, I don't think there is a big difference.

[@mattschaper2915]

@@DirtBikeChannel I mean i guess it depends on how and what you ride. I usually ride enduro loops and some grass track, after switching from stock to the fatty i found significantly less power off the bottom and a bit more at the high rev ranges.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

@@DirtBikeChannel Sorry, but there is something wrong with your judgment. having ported 2-stroke engines for the last 20 years, (making a good living at it for the last 17), I can tell you that changing a pipe (if they are tuned at different rpm peaks), is the #1 item you can bolt on the engine to change the power output. If you are putting around the trails, you might not notice much difference. But if you are ripping out of corners as hard as you can, with familiar corners, the difference can be so big you use different gears. A higher rpm pipe for example may rip out of your familiar corner in 2nd gear, but bog in 3rd, where a lower rpm tuned pipe may be able to pull that exit in 3rd pretty easily.

[@TheRcscalebuilder]

The ptech guard only weighs 4.5lbs and you will never have to change a pipe. Awesome product!

[@gordonstimmel4590]

Agreed

[@HYDETREEWORKS]

4.5lbs is a lot of weight to add to a bike., especially when your always trying to make them lighter.

[@chorleycake7942]

Fitting an exhaust flange protector to my KTM was the best money I have spent exhaust wise. My mate recently had a small tumble and the exhaust flange is cracked.

[@erez1984]

If you stop thinking your a factory rider and put a full bash guard like P-Tech or something youl change much less pipes overall.

[@DirtBikeChannel]

I cover this topic in the video.

[@moefoemonkey]

my 2016 250 has a force bashguard/pipeguard and has been used for hard enduro for 180 hours and only has 2 tiny dents

[@Wildlandfirefighting]

On older 2 stroke bikes like the Kawasaki KDX200 an aftermarket pipe made a huge difference in power delivery, the factory pipes today are way better so not much improvement in performance is seen with an aftermarket pipe, I see a Sherco behind you, is that a new test bike 😆

[@georgewarshington1230]

zero experience with modern ktm's but i had noticed their oem pipes look a little better than days of old. But the black Japanese pipes are notoriously made of pop cans.I am the unsung hero of crushing those and have crushed them without even hitting the ground and can confirm on my yz250 swapping for a gnarly pipe changes the power profile in a significant way AND feels to the hand to be way more dense and quality.

[@georgewarshington1230]

side bar if you have a carb bike you will most likely want to jet your bike differently after upgrading an expansion chamber. the manufacture usually has suggested changes with the pipe

[@Cross-Country-Biker]

Thanks for clearing up whether dents are a problem.

[@250txc]

Not sure why but my dents did not seem to hurt overall performance. But I am not Jarvis by any means.

[@331moto]

I just ordered a platinum 2 for my 03 CR250R. Theres already one on it now. its next to impossible them new. I figured I should get a spare while can

[@andychips6923]

You’re going to see more of a performance gain putting a gnarly on an old cr 2 stroke or yz rm etc.. ktm stock pipes are actually really balanced for low end grunt

[@EarthSurferUSA]

That is why he probably did not feel much difference. But if he put on the high rpm pipes used for MX today, he would have gained high rpm power and lost low rpm power. The porting still would not want to rev as high as the pipes potential, so just raise the exhaust port. :)

[@craigsteinman9807]

A good pipe guard is a must if u ride fender to fender with your Buddys roost will give you those little dings close to your cylinder those are the worst ..they restrict recirculation of your exaust the closer to your cylinder it is the only order for power it is..big ones up above dontbeob much power the little underneath do.especially next to the flange of your exhaust pipe

[@the88tlc]

good topic. i have been straightening, and can keep riding with two pipes! Air pressure, and rose tip heat will straightening them out (not the new ones with corrugated surface).

[@EarthSurferUSA]

I did that too. 30psi in the pipe, a propane torch, and a wet rag to stop the movement where I wanted it to stop moving. Best to do with a painted pipe though, because you can just repaint it.

[@harrison_jz5895]

Pipes don’t give you more power, they just move the power around

[@TM-lw8wn]

some take power away, actually many aftermarket pipes will give you some additional power over the stock pipe. Bike manufacturers are surprisingly conservative when it comes to "off the shelf" bikes, always some ponies hiding here or there.

[@lorenzhartl8088]

They move the tourque around and the same torque at a higher RPM means more power.

[@ryanrae6026]

@@lorenzhartl8088 Yup, P=TW

[@EarthSurferUSA]

But usually, when you go for higher rpm power, you do gain peak power also.

[@eugrules]

First thing I do is buy an extra pipe. I tuck away the stock and refit it when I sell the bike. I like that Pro-circuit the most, but they are all good. I think that new bike KTM 2t the pipes take less damage.

[@VlogEpicness]

I’d get vforce reeds and a high compression head before I get a new pipe.

[@owens5283]

Did mason move up to junior yet?

[@psycho3344]

If aftermarket pipes don't add power then why do you need to re jet the carb when they are fitted to get the most out of them?

[@chadrides914]

Very good question sir. If an aftermarket pipe causes your bike to run excessively lean on its stock jetting, then you would assume that pipe is making the engine able to burn more fuel which would equate to more power, but not all aftermarket pipes do this. Some cause bikes to need leaner jetting and as such would make me think they lessen the power output. Take care Dale. Nice open minded thinking with your comment.

[@DirtBikeChannel]

I haven't really felt the need to re-jet my bikes after changing my pipes. I've done it more than 2 dozen times over 10 years.

[@jannep6772]

@@chadrides914 The reason why some aftermarket pipes need leaner jetting is because they make engine to ”suck” fuel/air more efficiently from the carburetor/crankcase. Like same thing as why you have larger jets in the same carburetor in 125 than 250 and in 300 you have smaller jets than in 250. 125 sucks less fuel/air as it’s basically a smaller air pump than 250 and because a 300 sucks more air/fuel as it’s a bigger air pump it requires smaller jets. So by fitting a good aftermarket pipe it is more efficient air pump and has stronger intake vacuum/signal at carburetor and uses better that flow volume those jets are able to flow. This very same thing goes with these better aftermarket pipes requiring many times smaller/leaner jets. Same thing with Boyesen Rad Valve, milled head etc. In my 2018 Husqvarna TC 250 I changed FMF Fatty pipe, Pro Circuit R304 shorty silencer, milled cylinderhead by -0.40 mm, Boyesen Rad Valve and did throttle slide and fuel bowl GJ mods to otherwise stock Mikuni TMX 38. It required leaner jetting MJ 430, PJ 32.5 etc. @ sea level no deep sand riding.

[@chadrides914]

Janne P awesome reply. I’ve always felt pipes typically “move” the power around, not so much “make more power”, but I have had instances where larger jetting was needed after an Fmf shorty silencer install on a 2006 YZ250. So if just assume, if a pipe swap/silencer swap makes a bike run lean it’s making more power right? Ride on!

[@jannep6772]

@@chadrides914 If a pipe swap/silencer swap makes a bike run leaner (not too lean) = correct jetting then it’s making probably more power. Be careful not to run too lean jetting though. Braaappp!!! 👊

[@scottmazey8656]

Great vid Kyle and excellent advice. I've just did exactly what you recommended a couple of weeks back and purchased the FMF Gnarly for the exact reasons of the stock pipe no longer fitting as you described. Great info mate, Cheers from the land down under!

[@EarthSurferUSA]

It depends on how your stock pipe was tuned, but the probability is probable very high that you gained a lot of noticeable lower rpm power with the Gnarley pipe. Am I right, or was he?

[@scottmazey8656]

@@EarthSurferUSA The reason why I changed the pipe was exactly as Kyle said at the 3:40 - 4:50 mark .... my pipe got got out of shape so badly air was blowing out and so was gunk. I replaced with the FMF Gnarly becasue that is what I could get the quickest, plus it was cheaper than stock (I did research on the Fatty & Gnarly and chose the Gnarly for single track riding). r.e Performance vs stock - The Gnarly was slightly different with a little more bottom end but not too much more. In my humble opinion, I do think the FMF Gnarly is a heavier gauge, and therefore should be stronger. I've since sold the bike not long after i fitted the Gnarly pipe, so I cannot really comment on it's overall durability.

[@bobhatfield5163]

Hey Kyle to give you an idea in AUSTRALIA FMF gnarly pipe $458AUD-$316US carbon guard $280AUD- $195 US full alloy skid plate and pipe guard $329AUD-$230US stock pipe - KTM (FMF) fatty pipe $509AUD - $355US so you can see minimum fitting a pipe guard but more so fitting a full skid-plate pipe guard makes economic sense...

[@jamesrosskirkpatrick9870]

Hi there, Enjoyed alot of your Vlogs and tips. Wanted to ask what do uses put on your Dirtbikes after rinsing and soaping them down and blow drying I've been using WD40 or similar. It's for my kids Wee Factory MX50R. Any tips advice would be appreciated. 🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

[@EarthSurferUSA]

"WD40" sfor "Water Displacement" and "40" was their 40th formula before retail sale. It is great for getting water out of places like the kick starter, peg and lever pivot points, after a wash. It also removes specks of oil if your carb is running rich and messy. Because of WD40, I will power wash my chain (non-o-ring chain) until clean, and immediately use WD40 to get the water out, (and it pours out of the chain), before I apply the chain lube.

[@JaredVal13]

You can fix those dents or cracks I’ve never tried them because I don’t have the tools but I’ve seen other people fix them

[@christopheravery5808]

The pipe won’t do anything without changing the silencer as well, also most pipes won’t show noticeable power down low, you don’t notice it until you’re in the power band. Different pipes will change where the bulk of your power happen within the RPM range and when your power and will spike.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Not true. The stinger length and diameter are a factor for the power delivery, but not nearly as much of a factor than a differently tuned pipe. If you put a lower rpm tuned pipe, (like the FMF Gnarley) on a YZ250, you will have a lower rpm "powerband".

[@dannykyle738]

I don't think they increase power but they definitely change where the power is at. Procircuit works pipe on a 13 yz250, it msde the powerband much wider up top. I had a few times with the stock pipe where I reved past peak power and it would drop off. Not fun when you're charging a jump face but I got lucky and saved it. I put the procircuit on and after that the bike reved to the moon. I never noticed a drop off on the top end after that.

[@billbright1755]

Unless on a Dyno it’s hard to tell. More of an appearance thing. I remember my buddy’s 76 KX 400 with low pipe. Trail rides had it smashed near flat on bottom and it still ran very strong. Seems like a type of variable blade in four stroke type pipe could meet impulsive timing demands and be bulletproof. The pressure impulses of the expansion chamber could be mimicked this way. Or perhaps rotary valve side inlet type induction under strong cover with rear exit protected pipe.

[@bernhard8540]

Idk about the tpi bikes but I've changed a few fatty pipes and it has changed the PowerBar and when it kicks in for the hondas and other bikes... ktm is a bit different because they have an adjustable PowerBar whereas some older bikes with no power valve it helps alot

[@clinteasterly1334]

I broke down and got a Ptech full wrap. They say it weighs 7lbs, and that worried me. But when it showed up it felt like it weighed alot less. I honestly don't even feel it on the bike it's in a good spot. It does turn into a mud shovel I'll admit that.

[@3501bill1]

You should straighten them with hydra force pipe straighten tool.

[@marnusvdmerwe6632]

Love your videos keep up the great work

[@claudioteixeira5917]

When will you receive the Sherco sef 300 factory? I’am thinking to buying a Sherco sef 300 factory, l’very interested in the review, good job with all the information you give to we all riders. 👍

[@mrmoparrr]

Im picking up my New 2023 TE 300i HE on Monday and Changing Pipe and Silencer. Obviously going with FmF Tc and im Torn on which will be Best ‘. PC or FMF ?

[@oskarkullas9948]

Fmf pipes are made to have power on the top of the powerband. For enduro hgs would maybe be better. So for mx you will feel much difference.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

The FMF Gnarley is a lower rpm pipe. But they make them for MX too.

[@kraignewton4617]

So what about the mountain high pipes I know there getting close to producing them would you do a review on them when they come out

[@tezzanewton]

I just put a B&B pipe guard on my new Husky. Was about the same price as a FMF pipe and adds about 3kg to the bike. I’ll see how it goes. It’s probably a false economy because it restricts me to running a stock pipe.

[@remigarand9897]

You need to try MUZZLE pipe guard. Its very light and give you very good protection. Give it a try :)

[@WJamesBeoch]

This advice is spot on.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

How do you know?

[@raphaelpedrozo1594]

Sir Kyle please have a video on how to choose a pipe thats suits your bike...

[@EarthSurferUSA]

suits your riding.

[@kacperburzak1610]

Lol my yamaha blaster has the same size pipe as the ktm if not bigger it's a graydon proline and it made a big difference

[@WillyD1]

Great review Kyle thanks for the info I was going to get one thinking more power my stock pipes in good shape so why throw money out the window thanks 🙏

[@rykerthompson9731]

I heard your giving away that ktm. What video did I miss?

[@vetkosgarage6165]

What about fixing pipes with pressure. Also the pipes change the power band mostly on 125cc

[@EarthSurferUSA]

I used pressure, (30psi), a torch to heat the dent, and a wet rag to stop the dent from moving out too far. All 2-stroeks power delivery can be changed with different pipes. it is not the size that matters, it is the piston speed. A lower rpm tuned pipe matches lower piston speeds for more power in lower rpm's, and visa versa.

[@poorwhiteboy6521]

What do you think about the pro circuit platinum 2 compared to the fmf knarly ? I have a knarly on my ktm 300 xc 2018 it feels like nothing after the mid range. Looking for some good all around make e the fatty pipe ?

[@nuthintoprove]

BTW. Most pipes are designed to bend before they brake off your exhaust flange on the cylinder.

[@richardhartley7094]

Hi kyle do you run with a exhaust flange guard or had issues with flange cracking due to exhaust impact thanks👍🇬🇧

[@alexmcinnes8697]

I would recommend p3 carbon they cover almost all the pipe that can get hit there indestructible and will save money long run , maybe do a review video .

[@DirtBikeChannel]

I cover this topic in the video.

[@turreboiii2347]

So 1 qusteion! I got a 125 with a catalythic pipe on and wont a aftermarket pipe give me power then?

[@bobz1736]

Couldn't those dents get pulled out by one of those bodywork guys that surface weld a pin to the pit of the dent and then pull it out with a slide hammer type arrangement?

[@dring83]

I thought FMF made a line of pipes that were made of thicker gauge steel. but that was awhile back

[@EarthSurferUSA]

The Gnarley is thicker, made for woods riding. It makes a lot more low end rpm power than my stock YZ250 pipe.

[@danno02]

Come on man! The bash plates with linkage protection are not that heavy. I bought the P-Tech and am very glad I did. Rubicon trail is nasty and that P-Tech has saved my pipe and linkage many times. It weighs only 4 pounds (2000 grams).

[@charlesbyromhammiii2594]

I have a question about those expansion pipes. The reason I'm asking is a lot of the guys running the same motor that I am swear about the power improvement in the lower torque. The motor is a Chinese made 66cc/80cc. The stock pipe that comes with the motors is only a 20mm that just curves down and goes into a muffler which has 3 baffles and a solid cap that has a 10mm exit nub. I am building a custom motorized bicycle using the 66cc 2 stroke motor that's going to be a chopper and will only be ridden on the streets. After doing some reading I have sen that its best to build your own tuned 2 stroke pipe. My thought and question is since my bike is not a dirt bike or anything like that I'm going to make my own pipe I was thinking more old school chopper straight single pipe all the way back to a shark fin opening. Now I was wondering should I maybe after coming from the header expand the pipe a bit and run bigger tubing the taper the flare down after the bend and run whatever size that is best all the way back. Kinda making the expansion part in front of the bike coming off the header the ending it as it turns into the long straight pipe section

[@EarthSurferUSA]

The first thing you should do is stop using communist china stuff. Yea, they teach our kids in our schools that profit is bad, but that is only when we make it. communism does not deserve a profit, and it is destroying our free enterprise and our opportunity,---and our liberty.

[@snowfreak551]

Couldnt really tell a difference between the stock and FMF gnarly pipe for my Husqvarna TE250. But i did the same thing as you, mangled the stock pipe so may aswell grab the FMF

[@bryden_smith]

My fmf is bent like a snake rn I need to change it but I can’t afford it so I just jam it in there it won’t even go into the port straight lol but whatever at least I can still ride and I got one heck of a exaust leak aswell

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Pipes can be fixed, unless they are totally trashed. If you don't want to figure out how to do it, there are companies that can make it just about like new. About 30 years ago, internet search engines became quite handy for finding such services. Ya know, in the USA we used to be smart enough to make new things. Now we can't even maintain them? Glad I am old. :)

[@two_wheel_feels365]

Those pipe guards are about $460, so you could buy a couple replacement pipes at that cost.

[@garrett9974]

Why not a pipe guard/skid plate combo like a p-tech? Protects the entire pipe and outside of a gnarly crash no issue of damaging the pipe.

[@DirtBikeChannel]

I cover this topic in the video

[@ivettecueva3580]

Hi Kyle what about in the low end? Does it get better with the gnarly, do you feel a difference?

[@jeffreymoran6234]

Do the pipe guards work good? never had one

[@daniellewis6976]

the aftermarket expansion chambers change the power delivery characteristics .... Pro Circuits tend to give more top end .... FMF Gnarly will increase bottem end,.. popular on 125"s... FMF Fatty will increase top end ... Only a rider who can really ride fast will notice any difference .... The average rider may as well stick with the stock pipe ... ktm stock pipes are probably the closest to race specs in stock form. same goes for their head specs...

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Not true. With my stock YZ250 2-stroke MX bike, I could ride a corner time and time again in 2nd gear but will bog if i try exiting the corner in 3rd. With the Gnarley pipe, it will pull 3rd out of it. If this man can't tell the difference,--he is probably not getting on the gas.

[@scottgaskill4896]

Good video as usual.

[@benfairhall5331]

Aren’t most stock pipes on Ktms made by fmf? Or more the silencers?

[@davidmoline3834]

Thank you. Lots of good info.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

How do you know?

[@medicatedflowers821]

Used too always get dents in my stock but never on my fmf fatty

[@Heef101]

FMF provide pipes for KTMs Power Parts

[@250txc]

Very good overall advice ... Running a stock pipe will at least give you some idea on how the new pipe performs. New pipes today might be better overall than 20 yrs ago? Not sure on these new bikes but up until the last decade++ or so, 2t pipes moved the power around in the powerband. Meaning, you can get better low-end power, mid-range power, or high end power. Usually, taking power from 1 RPM range comes at the cost of another power range. A really tuned, racing pipe can do this power upgrades across the entire RPM range. C2 made a racing pipe for the EU enduro racers yrs ago for the Husky team and it changed the entire power band curve. -- As far as durably, just pick them up. Weight is a good indicator of how much abuse it will take. My C2 racing pipe helped the entire RPM range on my Huskies and its' weight was well less than other 3rd party pipes. It was bent very easily as compared to other heavier 3rd party pipes. -- Paying $500 for a 2t stroke bike is a sign of the times. I'd just not give my money away like that. But I did quit working in my 40s ... So $ is important to me and I don't buy things. I swap things for my money.

[@rulnes8697]

My Friends yz250 felt more aggressiv whit stock pipe instead of the fmf pipe he had

[@EarthSurferUSA]

My stock 2019 YZ250 is the slowest 250 I have ever owned, and that is since 1982. It won't be slow after I get done fixing it though. :) Your buddy also needs to learn how to jet the carb well. A different pipe will run richer or leaner, and if it goes richer, it will lose more power. They come from the factory rich for a 2-stroke with a carburetor.

[@chrisi2348]

so the pipe actually has to be the weakspot. because you dont want to jam your cylinder with your pipe because its so strong.

[@tristensligar4671]

Get a beta 300 Xtrainer I love the bike

[@andeibelda894]

The giveaway would be perfect. Can't afford a dirtbike

[@Scottstunts]

In my experience stock pipes always give the most broad power band.

[@EarthSurferUSA]

And exactly how much experience is that?

[@coltenwhitehead6418]

My pipe doesn’t have the extra bend where it comes out it goes down and then to the fat part

[@nhickcox02]

That means you riding a 125?

[@cosmokenney]

On my 17 TX300 stock and fmf pipes never fit right. Always leak from the exhaust flange on the cylinder. Think it would be worth trying to bend?

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Try Permatex "ultra black". Clean the surfaces well, apply it, put it together, and don't start the engine for a day or two. That stuff handles the heat better than the orange silicone and is much tougher. It will stay sealed.

[@braenzlig426]

why dont you try to repair those pipes ?! Its really cheap, i built myself a kind of a "hydraforce" system to get dents out and it was under 100 euros. before i repaired with air pressure and a heat so i get all the small dents out, but changed to the water system. you can get about 50 bars on it and after the repair the pipe fits perfectly on the bike again. Heat didnt do that and for me its a really efficent way to safe my first pipe. Im riding a gasgas 300 2018 gp and the fmf pipe is about 350 euros here in germany. im not using a guard having about 200h on the bike and the pipe is still in excellent shape after serveral repairs, so maybe youll give it a try ! :)

[@kevinclark9176]

You said, "I bend both the stock and aftermarket (FMF) pipe." But you don't say what FMF. The Gnarly is much thicker than the Fatty. Typically stock pipe thickness is similar to Fatty. Gnarly is also made to improve bottom end whereas Fatty is for top end. So if you're doing slow technical and putting on an FMF, yeah, you won't notice a power increase because you have the wrong aftermarket pipe on. Also, some people don't like the Gnarly because it gives more low-mid-range snap whereas a stock or Fatty can be more linear. And for those of us in the USA, FMF is made in USA (same with Pro Circuit I believe) so that's cool. I think you were right though that if you are likely to dent your pipes, don't swap until you do that. The difference isn't important enough on these new bikes to invest in a pipe right away. Is your Turbinecore the 2 or 2.1? I'd like to know if that new 2.1 is noticeably quieter.

[@kevinclark9176]

Edit: Later in the video you mention it is a Gnarly on your bike. So a little surprised it doesn't last longer than the stock one for you.

[@DirtBikeChannel]

Yes, I have bought more than 15 of the FMF Gnarly pipes. I have 3 of them as I type this email. I have not found that they last any longer than the stock pipes. I bend them all.

[@kevinclark9176]

@@DirtBikeChannel Must just be your riding terrain and style. I have been on the same Gnarly for 10 years and just now replacing it from it starting to crack. There's pretty much no dents on it. But I don't frequent trails where you smash it over boulders or logs. Don't have that where I am. So it just sees regular crashes and thrown rocks. I know I've hit it on stuff a few times but never noticed damage.

[@craigstokes321]

When they get dented bad, why don’t you blow them out with water pressure. The bike shops here blow them out with water and they return to there original shape, costs like 20 dollars and they good as new after!

[@rahathfarid6796]

I know this has nothing to do with the video but Iv got a kx85 and the rear brake lever has no pressure what so ever? Any Ideas on how to fix it ?

[@EarthSurferUSA]

Buy a good book. We do have the internet. Makes them easier to find.