Where Does Power Come From? | A Study of Dynamic Movement in Climbing

[@rostam24]

Subscribed, the way you explain things totally works for me. I have a background in martial arts (10 years) and when I started climbing 2 years ago I found I was great at dynamic moves. For some reason, I've only been climbing statically as I was under the impression that static climbing was necessary for elegant climbing. Just a few weeks ago I decided to stop holding back and use more dynamic moves, and I'm having a blast. Also, my worry was totally unfounded: dynamic climbing can be elegant. Your video is a testament to this! Thanks, and keep it up.

[@whelmking6497]

I almost never comment on videos as I don't stay logged in, but specifially logged in to comment on how exceptional this video is. Very, very appreciated!

[@alexenders6839]

Even as a well experienced climber as which I would consider myself I love to watch your videos! So nice to listen to! And they go much more into detail than most of the other "climbing tutorials" here on KZbin. Looking forward to seeing more from you 😊

[@oystercatcher943]

Excellent video. I’m climbing V4 sometimes V5. I’m trying to get better at dynos which I definitely enjoy. In my early 50s so I might be loosing explosive power but that probably just my excuse. Your knowledge of body mechanics is just amazing and super helpful as I’m fully self taught

[@gamedirection_us]

So what I learned today was Punch with your feet Jump with your shoulders

[@RyanHillGaming]

Honestly love these videos! Thank you for your detailed videos and I can't wait to see more from you!

[@stefanstillwell4854]

Awesome video! Climbers are often too dogmatic about staying static, even when a dynamic move makes a problem far easier, it's a good tool to have in your bag .

[@endTHEhegemony_Today]

Absolutely awesome video, you put a ton of production value into your work, I feel like I can recommend any video you make to others, even if I haven't seen it yet, because your videos always contain such valuable material! Thanks for showcasing your learning and thought process here, the way you teach spurs me to think more critically about some of the more mundane aspects of climbing I can work on to pinch out more performance. Thank you for everything your videos have taught me! If you're ever in Reno, let me know. I would love to buy you dinner!

[@escapevelocity8092]

What a precise, relavent, nuanced description of your approach to climbing. I learned a lot from it, or should i say, it taught me how to eliminate wasteful ideas and reinforced some suspicions of approach. I thought maybe i was rushing things by going with the impulse in the now with certain parts of the wall but like you say, the impulsive aspect to our body is probably a better judge of weight, distance, friction and muscular coordination than our rational left brained calculations. I believe we should try a bloc in an organic way a couple of times before standing back and reflecting on beta. This way we get to see what the body wants to do in each situation, then when we stand back and view the route, we can see modifications more easily. Namaste brother

[@CatMountainKing]

Great video, well thought out and explained! My taiji teacher explains the dynamic chain by comparing it to power shifting up gears (toes, ankles, knees, hips, shoulders, elbows, wrists, fingers). Every joint in between rotates a small amount to transfer torque when their turn comes. I think that “static” climbing should ideally also use the kinetic chain in the same way as dynamic climbing - just with slower consistent release - and maintaining tension/alignment is key to transferring power between static moves. To get closer to the ideal though, you need pinpoint precision and coordinated timing.

[@j.l.5966]

Well said! I love the rationale and break down for dynamic movement. It’s an important part of a climber’s arsenal of moves.

[@AntiPeach]

Really well thought out. Thank you for explaining, I really struggle with jumping and this helps a whole lot.

[@ejl74]

Omg great video! Thanks for all that you do.

[@TheGirlClimber]

Yes! Ninja Ted Talk! So inspirational!

[@DerLaufendeTod]

You just summed up perfectly the thoughts I had bc of a dyno I could not safely solve so far. What a strange coincidence especially considering the fact that I also practice Martial Arts and try to combine the movements with climbing.

[@ThommyTheThird]

This was nice to listen to, and explained a lot of points in a very clear manner. Excellent video!

[@masonluedke9712]

This was really interesting! Thanks for this

[@wattstowheels]

Keep up the quality work brotha!! I need to focus more on dynamic climbing for sure

[@LizKuhn_]

okay YES. This is what I needed to hear

[@PeterSodhi]

Magnificent production on every level... can't wait to try this at the gym.

[@nanadolphin]

This is fantastic! You have definitely earned a new subscriber

[@MrFantasticMunch]

Holy crap instructional climbing video that is actually interesting to listen to and watch

[@jimmyhenders4131]

thanks useful video. Started climbing about 2 months ago, did my first dyno on a 5.10+ on my second try. However I went back to the same route the next 2 weeks and could no longer get the dyno because I'd spent way too much time winding up and psyching myself out.

[@Anson0428]

You were great on the Ted Talk. That was a good personal story.

[@aishanzhong365]

This is by far the best bouldering channel

[@sunpreet93]

Love your videos, man

[@pieturnsmeon]

incredible content. please keep them coming!!

[@franciscowoenckhausc1488]

Amazing video, amazing channel, you have a new subscriber.

[@cluerip]

Really like the fact that you included your failures. Even if they were at the end. Its cool to see anyway.

[@Figuring-Things-Out]

Great work.

[@aseviz06]

You crossed over 1K!! Yay! 🎉

[@Wiindful]

Your videos are terrific, I love it !

[@GUIHTD]

Great vid. I like your focus on didactics.

[@mikejungle]

Where the hell did you come from? So far, I'd only rank you second to Neil Gresham's Masterclass in terms of useful climbing instruction on KZbin (cuz I mean, come on...Neil. Gresham.) If I can offer up some feedback, I think it would have been helpful to include more examples/tips on how to practically incorporate dynamic movement into the things that we already do. Really not asking for myself, I know how I'd like to proceed with this particular aspect; just wanted to give you some unsolicited feedback. Thank you, and keep it coming!

[@movementforclimbers]

I always go back to those Masterclass videos! Thanks for the compliment and the feedback :-) Will try to incorporate more applications in future videos.

[@allenkostner7056]

Made it to 1:06 and passed out. You’re so awesome

[@lukasz-dg5rn]

One detail worth noting here. If you have have a flash go on a dyno, then you should do 2 "windups" - the first one to feel how much power we need to generate and when to launch, and the second one to execute. For redpoint try we should do 1 "windup" just because we don't want to lose to much energy. :) It is of course a matter of experience, beginner climbers usually need much more than 2 "windups" to get the feeling, for the right power and moment, but with experience it becomes natural.

[@WizardyDylan]

amazing video

[@jacobjohnson6287]

Oh whoa, you're at pipeworks huh?! I was just there on Saturday!

[@danielgallagher429]

Yeah, great video!!

[@gaiaiulia]

Your voice is so calm and soothing. It's perfect for imparting information. Thanks for this great series. "Don't worry about falling. " I was terrified of falling till I actually did, just at the top of a climb. I'm still afraid of falling where there's slopers, or worse, pointy edged volumes.

[@miro4349]

what is that shoe brand that he is wearing at 2:52

[@vincent.wlynto]

Most important thing is you need brave. Don't be afraid to fail, just trust yourself and when you did it you will feel more confident and stronger than before

[@neonseacow]

Well done!

[@MikkoHaavisto1]

Great vid, keep it up!

[@ohisee9173]

"You must exercise your own wisdom to see what works best for you in your situation." I like that a lot. Translate it to some merch. "Exercise Your Wisdom. Blankity Blank Blank." oooo "Exercise Your Wisdom. Maximize Your Gains." Make the merch and send me one, please!

[@krispinyo1740]

Good stuff. I'm a B-boy too. Just started climbing.

[@philscheuer2079]

My body is ready!

[@williamt4629]

Sooo good

[@ejl74]

Nice skills on the bag. You do much boxing?

[@movementforclimbers]

Thanks! I'm a big fan of combat sports but mostly as a spectator. I like to hit the bag every now and then to experience a different style of movement. The tactile and auditory response of landing a good strike is very rewarding!

[@MrPrinny23]

Hi Siawn! I was wondering if there are any books or resources you'd recommend for someone who wants to learn more about body movement mechanics. I come from a medical background (chinese medicine) so I can handle terminology and anatomy and such too. Also, fantastic video.

[@gobbidimerda2496]

As an experienced lead climber, I started bouldering a couple of years ago and I think bouldering - referring to content of this video - it's a very useful training not only for the mesclus in order to overcome some mental limits when you move outdoors on lead walls

[@SyRyanYang]

I believe the arm swing initiating a jump puts the hip flexors in the stretch-shortening cycle. This is extremely important because the faster you can descent, the more upward acceleration you can generate (again stretch-shortening cycle). It's not just about how much you compress, but more important how quickly you can get compressed. The momentum from arm swing is probably negligible.

[@movementforclimbers]

Interesting! Just googled stretch-shortening cycle. Will have to read up more on it later. Thanks for the info and explanation!

[@CatMountainKing]

The stretch shortening cycle is very interesting! It plays a primary role in explosive movement like kzbin.info/www/bejne/pIGviIOFoNWmmLc

[@caderichard5986]

Bro I sometimes climb at ur gym I think. Pipeworks right?

[@movementforclimbers]

Yup!

[@robbiemedeiros244]

Aye same!

[@aladeenmadafaka6286]

good point to think more about your legs. especially when climbing on the artifical wall. I think on the rock, climbing becomes more and more statics. Sure, good leg work is the must

[@omgwateverlol]

i've seen plenty of people in the climbing gym ignore dynamic climbing by saying "its not their style" , really dumb if you ask me.

[@Mike-oz4cv]

Well, it is more dangerous and some people just don’t like it. Just like some people don’t like climbing steeply overhanging walls.

[@movementforclimbers]

Yea it's a preference thing really. It does come with more risk as Michael says. However, if your goal is to become a well-rounded climber, then learning dynamic climbing is something you should embrace. It really does make things more fun.

[@herliftdiary]

"don't worry about falling" sir, all I do is worry about falling lol

[@MSHNKTRL]

Don't worry about falling; you will fall, no doubt. Then you learn.

[@tpstrat14]

No offense but you’re comically untrained as a fighter. Maybe leave out those clips until you figure that out a bit more. You even slow motioned them for us lol smh