Which Cutting Lube is the Best?

In this video I put several common cutting/tool lubricants to to a comparison test.
What's your favorite cutting lube, cutting fluid, or dry lube?
Tap Magic: amzn.to/2nfx7p4
Rapid Tap: amzn.to/2ncn2JG
Megacut Dri-Lube: imsbolt.com/alf...
FMT Cutting Lubricant: www.fastenal.c...
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[@19672701]

Bits seen to cut nice,what brand?

[@nevamind932]

I'd like to know what brand also

[@bleepinjeep]

Norseman. Made in USA. I highly recommend them! - Tim

[@19672701]

@@bleepinjeep Thx,always looking for quality bits,so many poor ones out there.

[@andreyka64]

@@19672701 so you're telling me my harbor freight bits won't last ?!!! but yes, those are some quality bits.

[@95Z28A4]

Yep. I buy them from Amazon. Norseman or Viking - same company. Bought a set for $100 a few years ago and a Huot drill bit cabinet. When I damage a bit, I buy a pack of that size from Amazon.

[@legomotocrossman]

As a Machinist, I just want to as my 2 cent. The temperature measured should not be at the shaft, but at the very tip of the tool (cutting edge) as metal does not transfer heat as well up the shank of the tool and the instrument you are using to mesure is not super precise either (pin point measurement). Second, Lube should be applied frequently and making sure it reaches the tip of the tool because the fluid vaporises pretty quickly into smoke. Ideally it would be submerged in the fluid (but it obviously can't). If you look at some milling machines cutting metal, it uses an absurd amount of ''Coolant'' (5-10% oil, 90-95% water) to cool down and lube the tools as they are cutting. The Life of the tool should be measured in ''spindle load'' (Force to make tool turn) to mesure the true sharpness of the tool. Although this might be something very hard for you to mesure. Hope this helps! Good luck! I hope its a drilling success!! (Get it! lol ;P)

[@95Z28A4]

I'm just a back yard machinist, but I agree. You are most definitely correct. An overheated bit will have bluing at the tip, not the length of the shaft.

[@itsmisterchris]

Philling good yes sir!!

[@swamivardana9911]

The wonderful world of Social video. A real machinist tells you the real parameters.

[@69sound81]

Yeah, I was thinking that the fluid is there to cool down the tip of the tool which is the one that gets insanely hot. I dont own fancy tools with cutting fluid veins, but I use a sprayer/mister to keep that fluid cooling the hot surfaces as best as I can when using intensly my drill or drill press. And I also guess that it aint about the time it takes to cut but how much you can increase the lifespan of that tool. I mean, you can go through that material in the same time dry or super lubed, but how many times you can go before you need a new drillbit and how hard you can push that tool? If you have an intense proyect that requires a lot of cutting in a small time you want lots of fluid or lots of bits.

[@ww321]

For me, tapping is the issue. Drilling , 1 or 2 holes I may not use oil. Multiple holes I use a drop or 2 of oil as needed. I did a tapping test a few days ago. 4 kinds of oil on a 1/2"-13 tap on 1/2" HRS. The hands down winner was my mix of Rapid Tap and 1,1,1-Trichloroethane.

[@MrRoscoj]

Great informative test! Thanks! Side note... the infrared thermometer doesn’t test at the laser dot that close. It’s probably reading about 1.5” lower (on the thick plate) probably why the temps are relatively equal. Again great test and video. Keep up the good work!!!

[@Backin_Theday]

Chainsaw bar oil or boil some 30wt motor oil and fatten it with a stick of paraffin wax. Mix together, let it cool and put in oil can. If you add too much wax it will harden but possibly at that point you could pour it into a mold and make your own wax stick. Do this outside on a camp stove, not in the house.

[@dougkronemeyer]

One important issue that you did not address was the toxicity of the fumes. Some produce some very toxic fumes.

[@XXNINJAKILLERX]

I think you should have checked temperature at the tip of drill bit. Temperature should be higher at point impact.

[@kcscustom9759]

Interesting results. A follow up video on drill bit life would be cool I’d be very curious to see the results! I usually use old motor oil or gear oil.. I mean I always have some laying around and it’s just gonna get thrown out, might as well use it for something lol. Seems to work fine. If you do do a follow up video in the future you should include used motor oil & gear oil! It would be very interesting to see how it compares to actual cutting fluid or nothing at all.

[@BillKristjanson]

Great video! As a guy who rarely has to drill metal and has an awful time with it when I have to; I am amazed at the performance of the bits chewing through an inch of steel. I think your conclusion that the lube adds to the bit longevity is good. Thanks for making time to perform these tests! I'm going to shop for Norseman bits and some lube.

[@bleepinjeep]

I've used a lot of bits at various metal shops I've worked at in the past. You won't be disappointed with Norseman USA bits 👍

[@thomassprague441]

This was a great idea for test! There are two or three other lubricants worth testing: water, new and clean motor oil, and used motor oil. Everybody has all three in their shop virtually free and in practically unlimited quantities. legomotocrossman's comments are dead on. Measuring temp as close to the cutting edge as possible would provide the best information.

[@youthdawg]

You are my favorite on BJ. Your stuff is very practical and helpful! I got that thing to make my XJ lights brighter and you were right, it works great

[@tex24]

FMT: 2:20 Tap Magic: 3:20 Rapid Tap: 5:08 Megacut Wax: 7:16 Dry: 9:16 Conclusion: 10:33

[@jerosacoa]

I believe that the lubs are mostly to provide longer life span on the drill bits. Drill bits can cut by friction or by flute carving and there is where the cutting fluid acts. Friction heats up the bit and destroys it eventually...

[@howiediy9917]

One oil that was not on your list was Castrol Moly Dee. Take it from someone that cuts metal for a living it will out perform all the oils you tested. It is also great for tapping. Be warned though, you will not get the smell off your hands.

[@mikeduhm5325]

Anchor lube works really well for stainless and other hard metals. Kind of a green paste. Would be interesting to see how Ridgid or another dark pipe thread cutting oil works. The CRC aerosol cutting oil is also pretty decent.

[@josephbohme7917]

You want to see heat up the shaft because it means there is friction but condutive power of tap medium. You should have measured tip temperature. As P G said 3 yrs ago. Silly not to. Lubricant adds life to drill. A major reason to use it for more than a 1 hole wonder.

[@2003Trailblazer]

Thanks for sharing, but some thoughts on the temperature. Its not the shank temperature that matters but the temperature of the cutting surface; to understand if it is getting hot enough to soften the steel. Many of these examples are smoking from the heat they generate at the cutting surface but a +1F measurement of the shank has little value. Also those types of temperature guns have a conical acquisition zone (despite the laser), so the temperature of the workshop is being averaged into the measurement as well.

[@thehandseesall]

Is cutting oil any good as a sealed bearing lubricant?

[@cole33333333]

Just for Thought. I was going down to the local sears to buy bi-metal reciprocating blades, now that sears is no more . I bought a Diablo's Carbide General purpose blade. It works a lot better then sears any day. What other blades are out there.

[@vchanpe1]

What brand drill press are you using? HP, amps etc I am thinking about buying a drill press

[@xozindustries7451]

Compressive bits, I'd like to see it again with 1/2" drill bits, also try it with a chip brush with oil on it. Neat test either way

[@ttpharddrills5287]

Excellent video comparing cutting fluids. If you ever decide to do another video testing cutting fluids or pastes let us know and we will send you some of our CUT-IT

[@adeptheatingair]

10:05 Lubrication is mainly for the start of the cut. It is needed. tap magic or crc 3400 for me.

[@benmiller5015]

I think you shoulda checked the temp at the tip of the bit where all the heat n friction is but overall good test. Quality bits make a big difference. Try different brands of bits next

[@jmg36344]

There isn’t any link to where drill bits where purchased

[@garthphree178]

What was the company name of the drill bits ?

[@mikehoffman3690]

Love a channel I can click LIKE ever before the video starts.

[@johnkunze5362]

My suggestions, each of the lubricants need to be used differently. The first is a drop then fly. The rt needs constant flow, the wax hot then melt then drill. Also the metal needs support on both sides to keep parallel. The chip temp is most important...as it's made. Lastly, show the cutting tip on the cutting edge under magnification. Chip view under mag too.❤️. Nice try though.jpk

[@metaldog7128]

Interesting 🤔 you should try it with different engine oil , like the ones that claim they stick to moving parts and have less friction

[@AaronsAutomotive]

Pretty sure its the tip of the drill bit that matters the most for temperatures. And the oils lubricate and keep the tip cooler.... im no expert thou and could be wrong, all i know is u usually dribble a little of whatever oil i have on hand at the time when im using the drill press

[@BlindDude]

Hey man, you folded that 1 ton steering didn't you? Have a video? I'm looking at 1 ton for the tie rods but am interested how you folded yours?

[@Tanner731]

the best cutting lube is the lube you have on hand. used oil is my go to

[@Whiteandsonsgarage]

Tanner so very true

[@Wooskii1]

+1 for regular oil!

[@LJ_Jeff]

I feel as though you should've pulled the bit up when recording the temp and gotten it from what went through the metal instead of the upper part of the bit that didn't cut. Other then that it was a great video and I need a set of those bits.

[@ventureoffroading]

I use a wax product as well which is made by Rapid Rap. Last a long time and is a bit less messy. No pun intended there.

[@talon0863]

ATF or motor oil but for running a tap I use Tap Magic

[@cbigg81]

I'd like to see you try grandpa's can of 3 in 1 and WD-40. Just because it seems like my cutting oil is empty, out of reach or just plain missing when I'm on a deadline and we grab what is handy. Great video idea and I really like how you tried to eliminate all the human factors. The chuck issue was unfortunate,. Great stuff!

[@oquirrhlight]

I’ve missed Tim! I always like your videos Tim. Great info

[@tandemwings4733]

A silly comparison test really. ALL those holes were drilled DRY. A bit of lube just at the start does just that - at the start. And the first holes were drilled insufficiently supported.

[@spfttt]

Save your money. Inexpensive olive oil can't be beat. It's a bit more messy than some products, but whatever you use you're going to wipe it anyway. The cutting ability is awesome. With a high smoke temperature of 410 F.

[@kevinknabe7252]

I use crc true tap heavy duty cutting fluid.

[@BlindDude]

The temperature increase is because the lube spreads the heat from the tip. Hence longer bit life.. try some thermal grease?

[@wyattoneable]

Great test, thanks.

[@Garth2011]

Seems to suggest that neither seems to be much different than the other. I think the lubes mainly protect the cutting bit more than anything.

[@Whiteandsonsgarage]

Awesome video guys, always need lube

[@kotvaramit3960]

Which is the lowest viscosity cutting oil in the world ? Please answer me anyone.

[@DracoOmnia]

In my experience cutting fluid stinks like hell, but is expensive. Why else stinks like hell that I've always got a supply of? Gear oil or hydraulic oil. Like others have said I think a test comparing wd40 (most home gamers go to), 3 in 1, used motor oil, atf, gear oil, hydraulic oil and other common products would be highly enlightening.

[@heavymetalmadness666]

I nearly never use lube on drill bits. I think your test results were very close, because you had a great speed and feed rate. People that don't might not. I think oils are only acting to cool a bit cutting to fast. One time I was drilling with good success and then mid drilling I thought I would oil the drill bit and the only thing near by was a special clock oil. It stopped cutting immediately and then broke the drill bit when pushing harder in the drill press.

[@MSTrishRN]

Very informative. Thank you. I am more interested in the drill bits and what brand those are.

[@bleepinjeep]

Norseman. Made in USA. Great bits!

[@bloodruststaples]

I've used Corrosion-X Heavy Duty (the green can) quite a lot, and have had some nice results. Its basically electronic-safe WD-40 on steroids, but it's really viscous. Smells good too hahaha. Do another video with that stuff!

[@2manytoyz123]

I recently started using Tap Magic at work, and while it works fine, it has a nasty stink! Much prefer Tri-Flow.

[@ZambonyJackson]

Does Tim have his own channel? Would love to see more vids from him!

[@mikewarman9910]

Cutting oil should not be a lubricant. Cutting material requires metal, to metal contact for the blade, or drill to cut into the material. If a cutting oil is too slippery it will impede the cutting ability. A good cutting oil is only used to cool the bit, and material to prolong the life of the cutting tool, and to not work harden the material you are sitting.

[@granitesand78]

Great video!!!

[@andreyka64]

I thought I was watching a Project Farm video

[@AaronsAutomotive]

Same here. Though project farm posted 2 videos baco to back 🤣 oh well, good videp regardless :)

[@JustinSmith-ph1le]

Andrey Kitsen 🤣

[@NerdyMeathead]

He just did a video on this

[@Wooskii1]

For the next test see if you can find a solid chunk of steel! Old engine block maybe???

[@jagboy69]

Engine blocks are made of cast iron or aluminum. I can drill through cast iron with a wet noodle.

[@behemothinferno]

Sorry to burst your bubble but that infrared thermometer is absolutely not up to the task of measuring the drill bit's temperature as it is probably taking the average temperature of a 1 inch diameter hole. You'll need a thermal imager for that!

[@EvanMoon]

Just like watching drag Racing, But instead of pieces of rubber flying off it’s pieces of metal

[@chrishayes5755]

well done

[@mrgcav]

Something is wrong with this teat when a dry bit cuts faster than a lubricated bit.

[@spfttt]

Windex. Nothing better on the planet.

[@2LateIWon]

Great video. Use cheap Chinese bits

[@jeffmiloanonimity5758]

Speed is secondary to tool life

[@BlindDude]

Astroglide.

[@notrandom2]

Test elmers glue please!

[@tonyblewitt6159]

what you are really comparing here is several different drills

[@jeffmiloanonimity5758]

Take the heat measurements, starting at the chisel point

[@tomhubbard353]

WD40 is really good for aluminum. Think street sign and jig saw and no galling! LOL

[@idiotburns]

rapid tap and boelube

[@TheMrhick92]

I was told before that aintifreeze is good for cutting lube

[@Whiteandsonsgarage]

Evan Abendroth anything is better than nothing

[@TheMrhick92]

I normally just use wd40 myself tho because its always right there

[@justaguyandhisdog9328]

Recap: rapid tap wins 🏆

[@jjthesavage]

Before the video, I'm going to guess it makes no difference.

[@Worldpeace-su3qk]

Becareful 🥽

[@Ts1paa]

Thanks. Use glasses, please. Not for the sake of your health - the video was useful and if you keep your eyes working you may make something else useful. If you'll be blind - you won't.