Which glue is strongest? Testing with my computerized tester.

[@WoodByWright]

Thanks for shout out. On the test I did, The long grain to long grain is actually a cross grain connection. So they should be fairly similar in that. but with the rig I was using, it puts more pressure on the glue joint itself. I would to try it with your computerized laod cell. That is so sweet. Nice work. I always love watching your tests. Lots of great analytical thought-through on that.

[@D4rkS7der]

Shut up? :D

[@jamescollier3]

@@D4rkS7der there's glue on his O key

[@-Kerstin]

shout out*

[@smitm108]

@@D4rkS7der Freudian? …

[@woodsprout]

At first I thought he was angry. :-)

[@zasgat]

Hi Matthias, I work as an engineer for one of the top 3 adhesive manufacturers. What you measured is the torsional shear strength of the wood glue. One interesting thing that you pointed out is that the different failure mode in each sample. You can see the "adhesive" failure when the bond between wood and glue failed leaving a clean surface. Most appeared "cohesive" meaning that the glue failed in the bulk structure leaving adhesive on both sides. The wood breakage was a substrate failure and these results are typically discarded. A factor to account for when comparing to Wood by Wright's data is that your setup includes leverage from the force applied at the end of the wood block. Also important is each glue's reliability ratings like humidity and temperature that you mentioned. More rigid glues like superglue also might not be able to and the CTE mismatch during temperature swings.

[@micahrufsvold]

I wasn't sure if you were making this up, but I checked your username and you're not a phony so thanks for your insights! 😉

[@DakotaBurgener]

What glue would you recommend?

[@zasgat]

@@DakotaBurgener Entirely depends on the substrate (wood or other material) and operating conditions (exposure to temperature, humidity, force, time etc.)

[@BenInSeattle]

I was following you fine until the final sentence: _“More_ _rigid_ _glues_ _like_ _superglue_ _also_ _might_ _not_ _be_ _able_ _to_ _and_ _the_ _CTE_ _mismatch_ _during_ _temperature_ _swings.”_ Might be able to what? And what is a "CTE mismatch"?

[@Kleinduimpje]

@@BenInSeattle coëfficient of thermal expansion. Most materials expand if temps go up, and contract if temps get lower. The amount of geometric change per unit of temp change is the CTE. So each material has its typical CTE. For joint strength stability it is benificial if CTEs of glue and wood are as similar as possible. If not, then temp change causes internal stresses in the joint, as there is only a small temp range where the geometries closely match. Cyclic stresses can cause microfracturing and debonding within the joint. Leads to strength loss and ultimately to failure of the joint.

[@chrisgriffith1573]

Fun fact about wood gluing my late Great Uncle Ralph taught me back when I was a child: (Using plain Elmer's wood glue circa 1986) when applying wood glue, brush it on all surfaces being glued, and let it cure for about a minute, then apply a second coat quickly and then put the pieces together, the extra tack and time for the glue on the wood helps evenly penetrate the surface of all the pores in the woodgrain, also helps the glue to remain wet longer when you reapply, thus giving it a longer more even cure rate in the end, and will not "flash cure" (when the wood wicks away the moisture of the glue too fast) thus weakening the glue's bond into the wood. Moistening with water will only dilute the bonds made on the surface of the wood, so that will not work. I still have the example of this very lesson, a desk I made for college, which underwent no less than 6 moves cross country, and none of the joints have failed to date.

[@GothicPotato2]

Great tip! Thanks for sharing.

[@JamesCouch777]

👍

[@TitanKorki1]

I enjoy this tip thank you

[@yeeeehaaawbuddy]

It also helps a lot to apply the glue, brush it onto each piece, let it sit for a minute, apply more glue, then rather than just put the pieces together, SLIDE the pieces against each other a bit until they naturally seize together, then slide them into the correct position. I don't know why, but when this sliding technique is done correctly, it makes the connection much stronger.

[@IstasPumaNevada]

All this would be worth thoroughly testing.

[@JohnHeisz]

I'll pop in early and say that you used the wrong construction adhesive. It has to be PL Premium - a polyurethane construction adhesive, and not the normal subfloor adhesive you tested.

[@JPearlLapis]

Now I want to see a video on which construction adhesive is strongest...

[@mlindholm]

Moar content? We all win! 😁 Except perhaps for Mathias, having to repeat the test cycles again, with different wood than this set of tests.

[@F0XD1E]

Still don't think it would be as good as the wood glue.

[@VerticalVertex]

john with the burn

[@JohnHeisz]

@@F0XD1E I never said it was as good as wood glue, but it's good enough and certainly good for woodworking. My 20+ years of using it are proof of that, at least for me :)

[@AllBikesShredits]

Matthias, the amount of content you put into one 13 minute video other channels don't manage to put into 50 minutes. Thank you for always cutting straight to the chase!

[@mikew8684]

Yes sir. You made a great video thank you

[@chrisa9568]

These “project farm style” comparison videos with Matthias’ approach to testing are really good.

[@OfflineOffie]

alright alright, now for the taste test

[@seigeengine]

Please don't insult Matthias' work by comparing it to Project Farm's awful videos.

[@jordanbeyer7607]

@@seigeengine really? awful? There are at times in which I wish he would do something slightly different. But overall his testing is constant and good

[@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT]

@@seigeengine I agree with that. A long time ago I pointed out PF was doing biased comparisons and the indirect reply just confirmed it - never watched another video since.

[@rotaryrevor4756]

I don’t know what you guys are talking about. Project farm seems pretty unbiased to me.

[@IanSmithKSP]

I use construction adhesive regularly for, well, construction. What I’ve learned is there are many different kinds for specific purposes. DAP4000 for example has very high PSI ratings for cross-joint strength. So when your subfloor expands and contracts seasonally, you don’t shear the glue off. I imagine that you used one of the glues that’s designed to withstand expansion, and so is weaker (but less brittle). The more brittle stuff might make better furniture joints

[@testingapril]

Yep, I'm in the states and unfamiliar with LePage, so looked up the one he's using and it is for subfloor. LePage and Loctite are basically the same it looks like. Same parent company and similar brands between them. The PL 3x and 8x did really well in Project Farms testing

[@Frank-bh3cm]

This is great content! Thanks for buying all the glues, building a load tester and writing the software.

[@jerry-p]

As always, fun to watch your tests. Loved it when the samples popped off and flew through the air! I've been using the Gorilla wood glue for the last few years and have been quite happy with it all around. Nice to see it showing well in the standings!

[@FormerlyKnownAsAndrew]

With the -20 to -30 degree weather we've been getting here in Toronto....my LePage wood glue literally froze into a block. The woodworking never stops though. Started leaving them in the house but sometimes I forget the bottle in the garage.

[@AmandaRPatterson]

I do appreciate your scientific approach to testing things. Nice video!

[@johnballmore5484]

Love the quality of your testing, and the conclusions and personal opinions you provide us with. Keep up the great work!

[@mmocny]

Thank you for this! I never even considered gorilla glue before. Three factors for choosing titebind 3 Vs regular wood glue: 1. Outdoor/waterproofing needs 2. +5/10 minutes working time 3. Remains non tacky for longer, which makes bringing several tight joints together easier (like a row of dominos or finger joints).

[@aaronalquiza9680]

For me, the strongest glue is always where i didn't mean to apply it.

[@matthiaswandel]

I discovered superglue sticks amazingly well to skin!

[@firstlast446]

@@matthiaswandel It's even usable for closing a cut in a pinch lol

[@trevorlambert4226]

@@firstlast446 It's my go-to for most cuts. Exponentially better than any bandage.

[@elminz]

@@matthiaswandel Universal truth of superglue... it always ends up on your hands. One thing to factor in as well is wood expansion/contraction breaking brittle glues (like superglue) over time. Construction adhesive can be much stronger e.g. PL Premium x8 and MAX with rated tensile strength 2-4x that of regular ones.

[@paulkolodner2445]

@@elminz A compliant glue like polyurethane is better if the temperature is going to vary a lot, especially if the two parts that are glued together are different materials. Old lab trick: if you want to separate two pieces of different materials that have been glued together, toss the assembly into liquid nitrogen.

[@blonob_estates]

As much as I crave another one of your multi-part builds (like a marble contraption) the glue test was riveting and very informative. Without seeing this, I probably would never have even given Gorilla wood glue a chance which sounds like it deserved, so thank you Matthias. And don't stop leaving them uncensored, real reactions are well, real :)

[@bribbripnairbnab7301]

Good information. The results will probably "stick" with me even though not the exact numbers. :-)

[@jeffmorrison5834]

I LOVE these in-depth analysis of specific subjects!! Thanks again Matthias!

[@daifeichu]

Thanks for doing all those tests Matthias. Very interesting to see all those results. That must have taken a long time. The construction adhesive that you used is different than the one John uses which is a polyurethane. I use the same type that he uses. I was building a workbench a few years ago using that polyurethane ca and realized I had put a piece of wood in the wrong spot. By the time I had a chance to get back to correct my error it was about 20hrs. I was banging that piece of wood with my framing hammer multiple times and could not get it off.

[@Joemama555]

yes. the pl premium is the polyurethane based glue which cures with moisture. i'm not sure how that pl400 cures. I would like to see how the pl premium holds up, i'd put a dollar on it winning or tieing with the epoxy.

[@Nifty-Stuff]

Matthias, thanks for doing this test in such a controlled way. Multiple samples, and then glad you went to hard wood! Very surprised that CA glue did so well.

[@robertbamford8266]

Very interesting. I think it shines an interesting light on “with modern glues, the wood will fail before the glue.” Thanks for the analysis.

[@F0XD1E]

Good test. The Titebond III is waterproof though. Don't know about the gorilla wood glue. A few percent isn't a major concern to choose one over the others for all applications. The top performers are all fairly strong and are likely to break the wood before the glue. Stuff like working time, cleanup, water resistance, finish appearance, and sandability all come into play for real projects.

[@NWGR]

The gorilla wood glue is type II water resistant; not water proof, but fine for projects subjected to moisture (rain, splashes, etc.).

[@IstasPumaNevada]

That's a great comparison! Thank you. Further ideas for testing; perhaps try wiping down the gluing surfaces of the softwood with acetone or something to try to get rid of potential oiliness? And/or maybe scuffing the gluing surface a bit with some 80-grit sandpaper (even though it was already rough). Or maybe the softwood is just so relatively flexible that the weak points in the wood/joint are allowed to move enough for a break in the glue joint to propagate more easily.

[@CarbonPhysics]

Great test, thank you. A very useful test would be to glue up your samples and let them sit for a year, then test them again to see how many of them have maintained their strength over time.

[@engineerncook6138]

Bravo for the constant strain rate tester, a DIY Instron. As with wood glues, there are numerous construction adhesives. Not all of either category are created equal. The Liquid Nails construction adhesives tested by Project Farm in July 2019 was at the bottom of the pack.

[@MrConacher]

Fascinating comparative analysis. Thank you for this.

[@ugaladh]

The other problem with Gorilla Glue is its shelf life. Everytime I have ever tried to use Gorilla Glue, it had hardened in the bottle before I could ever use it. I eventually stopped keeping some around.

[@robertharris1748]

That's what he was referring to with the small bottle of Gorilla Glue (the "original"). The Gorilla Wood Glue he recommended at the end is a totally different product.

[@ugaladh]

@@robertharris1748 Right, I posted that before finishing the video and he went on to mention that.

[@tonyp9609]

Great test but haven't seen Elmers Max Wood Glue. Thank You

[@xlillo6175]

Good video. Over the past 20 years I have found the PL400 to preform far better than how it resulted in your testing. Specifically which use on framing lumber, plywoods, and solid hardwood flooring. When having the dismantle things Ive built with those materials the PL has always out preformed the wood strength. One variation is that my joints have always been screwed or nailed in addition to the PL400. The Gorilla wood glue was a surprise, and I'll probably be moving to that from the Titebond for carpentry projects.

[@Lucasartwork]

I would like to see a similar test with the pulling apart strength. This 90 degree test is good but introduced a twisting effect to break the wood or the glue. So, to see how it pops apart too to bottom not sheer strength.

[@justinhoffman5339]

I was going to suggest the same. I imagine the hot glue would fail quickly.

[@TheJamie109]

Love these testing videos. Been watching your vids for years, and all the testing videos you've ever done are always my favourite. I just love cool graphs!

[@bhoola123]

Like most other video, this was the best you did for your woodworker viewers. Thanks dear.

[@truckguy6666]

I feel like the surface finish has a lot to do with how good the glue holds. Something like oak with a ton of texture and pores combined with a good runny wet wood glue (water based to open up the pores too) would hold 2x as well as on a freshly jointed maple face which is ultra hard, and smooth and non porous.

[@tedeisner822]

that is something that i noticed too, it makes a difference if your wood is freshly cut or sanded vs case hardended. or dusty, etc.

[@harishveeramani2907]

Project farm would love watching these tests. Keep up the nice work, Matthias!

[@eideticex]

I'm thankful that the winner in this case is actually easy to find almost everywhere. Given the results with CA, now I'm curious if spray on CA will yield similar results. Having a very strong spray on glue for wood could be really handy to have around a workshop.

[@samTollefson]

My general use shop glue has always been Titebond 2 and it does go bad after 4 years or so Thanks to you, Matthias, I will keep some Gorilla glue on the shelf!

[@jeremyturner2873]

Glad to hear you mention clothing. That's the main reason I stopped using Titebond 3, because it WILL NOT wash out.

[@trevorlambert4226]

No waterproof glue will wash out, which should be pretty obvious.

[@IanSmithKSP]

Matthias you’re a much more stringent experimenter than project farm, and you’re easier to listen to. Keep these coming dude I trust your opinion more

[@1pcfred]

We're gonna test that.

[@TiffMcGiff]

Another great video for those of us just getting started. Thank you sir.

[@badopinion]

Thanks so much for doing this Matthias. Gorilla wood glue has been my favorite general purpose wood glue as of late and I’m glad to see a good showing here. Titebond 2 would be my #2.

[@thomascharlton8545]

Thanks Matthias. Very helpful. Would have been interesting to see a comparison with T-88 epoxy which is the go-to adhesive these days in wood aircraft construction using sitka spruce or douglas fir.

[@Drundel]

Great video, never would have thought CA would have done that well. Real world feedback. Gorilla foaming glue doesn't hold up in the humid Texas Gulf Coast climate. I used it to repair part of a fence picket (the top piece broke off due to a knot and a utility line worker). It lasted 3-4 years before the glue failed and the wood again became loose. I cleaned it the best I could and used Tight Bond III and so far (4+ years) its holding.

[@PabloEdvardo]

Great follow-up to the last video. I was going to suggest doing a time-based test as well, to see how the glues deteriorate in strength over time (e.g. the super glue), but then you did the test with the old gorilla wood glue which was very interesting.

[@cwtrain]

Something about the meeting of wood, mechanics, and scripting just tickles the hell out of me. Bona-fide renaissance man.

[@David_Powell]

I seem to recall seeing one YT tester saying that a smooth surface created a better bond than a rough one (which was memorable because I always thought the opposite). Anyway, that might explain your softwood vs. maple; you even said the softwood was freshly sawn and quite rough.

[@dakotamax2]

I use the traditional, exterior-grade wood glue for 99.8% of my projects. For those that use the caulk gun stuff, what is cleanup like after squeeze-out? Besides the workpiece, clean-up often includes clamps, work-benches, floors and other tools.

[@markdayneowalla]

My wife got me some Gorilla wood glue from the Ambassador Bridge border store for real cheap and I am very impressed with its performance. I'm glad to hear it still works well when old. I agree that there is no "one" glue. It all depends on the purpose at hand. Gorilla hair-gel (polyurethane glue) is great when gluing wood to a non-wood surface, for instance. Or of course when you're having a really bad hair day. Titebond III is the choice for cutting boards where water-proofness and food safety are concerns. I use hot hide glue as well as fish glue for stringed instruments. It would be interesting to see a test like this performed with those. Great video as always, Matthias. Keep up the good work.

[@TheBookDoctor]

Somehow this manages to be both a very satisfying and very dramatic video, watching all of those breaks.

[@JohnKrakatoa]

THANK YOU FOR THIS!!! I have the big chug (3,78l) of titebond III since almost 6 years ago and it still works great !:D I stored it good though, in the cellar.

[@steveyork4173]

Your previous video where you experienced the bridle joint glue failures had me wondering...was it really a glue *failure*, or was it glue *starvation*? With the testing here, you just did a single face joint, which allowed getting a nice even layer of glue between the pieces before clamping. But with a bridle joint, or even more so with a box joint, you have to slide the pieces together during assembly, so it's not really an apples-to-apples comparison. I have often wondered if having a tight-fitting joint before adding glue just ends up scraping all the glue out of the joint during assembly. Your bridle joint tests where it appeared there wasn't any glue applied after they failed seemed to reinforce that theory. What might be an interesting set of tests would be to try bridle joints with varying clearances and use the same glue for each to see if the problem is that you are pushing all the glue out rather than the strength of the glue itself. And if so, what is the optimum clearance before the glue layer becomes too brittle and weak due to thickness?

[@BenInSeattle]

Interesting point. Matthias once said of the foaming Gorilla Glue, _“I_ _guess_ _it's_ _a_ _good_ _glue_ _to_ _expand_ _into_ _inaccurate_ _joints,_ _but_ _I_ _prefer_ _to_ _just_ _make_ _my_ _joints_ _so_ _that_ _they_ _are_ _accurate.”_ If Matthias is accurate to the point of nearly zero clearance, it wouldn't be surprising if he scraped the glue out of bridle joints.

[@MCsCreations]

Fantastic work, Matthias! Thanks a bunch for all the tests! 😃 Hot glue is pretty impressive indeed! And no one seems to trust it. Go figure. 😬 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@natalieisagirlnow]

as long as you don't use it as intended, by not using an actual glue gun

[@paulward6312]

Watched this. Decided on Weldbond. Oak table 1” split with lots of stress. Vacuum adhesive into crack , clamped 10 days. Worked great.

[@williamreinhard]

This is a super helpful video. I had suspected that Gorilla wood glue was good, as I made some cutting boards with it a long time ago and they seem to have held up much better than other cutting boards I've made with different glue. Good to see some actual data to back up my anecdotal evidence.

[@Peekul1]

Man, you crack me up. Watching your invention launch wood across the room 🤣 Super smart guy just doing your thing. I appreciate you!

[@onlyeyeno]

I absolutely love these seemingly somewhat "obsessive compulsive" test videos ;)

[@Smallathe]

Very cool experiment and a fascinating result. Great video!

[@PeopleAlreadyDidThis]

Then there’s longevity. Not only is construction adhesive weak at the outset, it decides to let go years later. Our contractor glued and screwed floor decking to the joists. “You’ll never have a squeak,” he pronounced. A few years later, the adhesive had all let loose and I had to install many, many more screws to quiet the floor. I wouldn’t use construction adhesive to build a henhouse.

[@kumbackquatsta]

you can tell matthias is a thorough and attentive lovemaker

[@jack_brooks]

I'd be curious of the differences between Titebond 1, 2, & 3. My understanding is that Titebond 3 trades off some strength for flexibility, so when it's used outside it has some give as the wood expands. Whereas Titebond 1 & 2 are stronger, but more brittle.

[@MrMega200]

Actually according to the Titebond site the order is 3, 2, and 1 from strongest to weakest.

[@MrMega200]

@BreatheScotland Titebond 3 is waterproof. Titebond 2 is water resistant and titlebond 1 isn't. Gorilla wood glue(big bottle here) is basically the same thing as Titebond 2.

[@bobbyt9999]

@@MrMega200 Titebond 2 and 3 are food safe... can be used on cutting boards

[@MrMega200]

@@bobbyt9999 yes for indirect food contact meaning the joints have to be exact to not let food contact the glue. It was right on the bottles that titebond 2 is water resistant. 3 is completely waterproof.

[@ivprojects8143]

I really like these testing videos! Very interesting results.

[@JoseSilveira-newhandleforYT]

Thanks Matthias! I'll keep on using my cheap white glue with more confidence 🙂

[@Suicaedere666]

Incredible video Mattias, thank-you very much!!

[@LukeTheJoker]

Thanks for doing this! That very thorough, methodical approach reminds me of Project Farm tests. I have been using BondCrete which is a PVA concrete admix/sealer/surfacePrep here in Australia and getting better results than traditional wood glues, with the addition that I already have it on hand in 5L buckets, be interesting to know if you have something similar there you could test.

[@johncoops6897]

Bondcrete is basically just standard PVA, but in bulk. It certainly works well on timber, but surprisingly (for what it's sold as) it is not particularly waterproof.

[@mibobalou726]

Looking at your videos of the "glue failures" situations (as opposed to when the wood itself is cracking and splintering), it looks like the specific failure most of the time is in the adhesion of the glue to the wood surfaces. I would conjecture that CA glue is superior because its lower viscosity and thinner nature allows some amount of penetration into the depth of the wood, rather than just staying on the surface, thus forming more of a 3-dimensional bonding zone between the two pieces of wood. Think penetration in metal welds as an analogy. If this is indeed the case then it would be very interesting to see if macroscopically roughing up the mating surfaces, to make the bond zone thicker, could increase bond strength with some of the weaker adhesives.

[@ALAPINO]

TB3 is still my favourite as a general use wood glue. I've never been a fan of WB or LePage in the past. Gorilla glue always worked as a "repair it now, not repair it right" sort of solution. Good to have around in emergencies but certainly not a woodworker's staple, in my humble opinion. Just like construction adhesive it's great at dissimilar material bonding for funky applications. The thing that stands out the most is that the normal cure two-part epoxy is weaker in your tests than the 5 min. I guess your data might warrant looking into LePage again. Thanks for sharing, good sir!

[@rickymcgrath2314]

I would really love to see similar tests with threads tapped into a few different species to see how strong wood threads are vs using threaded inserts and T-bolts.

[@jpsimon206]

I think you cleared up a mystery for me. When gorilla glue first came out, I picked some up because I had been impressed with their duct tape. I had this same experience, it bubbled up like a foam and separated the joint. A year later I mentioned this offhand to another woodworker I know, and he's where he had been using nothing but it for a year. He had no idea what I was talking about when I said it was foamed up. I was completely unaware there was a second type of gorilla glue that was not that horrible stuff. I normally quite agree with this guy so it was one of those things that stuck with me, off putting.

[@johncoops6897]

Gorilla is a BRAND of glue, not a type. They make Fast and Slow set Epoxys, Metal-reinforced Epoxy (aka JB-Weld), Contact Adhesives, Super Glues, a full range of glues. The bubbling stuff is Polyurethane glue, and it's also available from many other suppliers (eg: Sika). If you read the instructions, you will see that you MUST clamp that style of Polyurethane glue. You know, RTFM or the label on the bottle.

[@SM--]

John Heisz in shambles

[@grannyflatgarage7599]

Just out of interest I'd love to see a dial indicator on that structural post to see how much it flexes when your doing the tests. Obviously wouldn't impact the result but its fascinating to see how much 'solid' things actually move!

[@DanielJAudette]

I mainly use the lepage glue. I have dealt with a panel glue-up that was the standard foaming gorilla glue and one of the lepage. The gorilla glue failed on the seam and it was the glue that failed. The lepage worked so much better and never failed under the same conditions.

[@colossalbreacker]

I use tight bond 3, mostly because I remember it holding up well in strength tests and exposure to moisture/elements. The downside is it dries darker and is harder to clean off of wood wet than a lot of other glues. I would be interested to see how gorilla wood glue holds up to water or moisture/temperature. Might be a worthwhile switch if I can get it in a jug like tightbond.

[@markfritz315]

The way I look at it is all the wood glues are close enough to each other. What glue I choose is based on if there may be water around, if it is a large glue up, and if it is a dark or light wood. It helped that it was on sale as well. I may need to check out the open set up time on the Gorilla if it is shorter or longer than Titebond 3.

[@truckguy6666]

100% agree

[@sawyerrob949]

As a retired custom furniture/cabinet maker, I've used a lot of glue, and I'm still doing some woodworking. I got a kick out of how your "test" came out compared to my favorites. For ME, construction adhesive really hasn't been all that strong, and my two by far favorite woodworking glues are, Gorilla wood glue and Tite bond 3! Looks like we are on the same wav length! lol SR

[@marcelo403polo2]

My favorite is titebond white all the time. I wonder how that would compare to other glues

[@Noughtta]

@@marcelo403polo2 Titebond has been my go to for home audio projects for years, this makes me want to try out the GG to see how that works out. I’ve also used construction adhesive for a few larger 30-40 cubic feet enclosures and I’ve found that it’s got a long set time so positioning awkward pieces was always easy. It fills gaps great and it sticks to most any surfaces + angles.

[@ItsMrAssholeToYou]

@@Noughtta Being that it's formulated for structural use, I wonder if construction adhesive has more give to accommodate building flex without cracking. If so, that give might have an impact on the acoustic properties of the enclosures.

[@truckguy6666]

Titebond 2 is my go-to, especially if you need something that sets up quick and for most interior projects.. Titebond 3 for exterior stuff or when you need a longer working time!!! All the other choices are garbage except the cheap "wood glues" which are fine for most DIY/weekend warrior stuff. Construction adhesive is just that. Construction adhesive. Yes it will hold but no where near a real wood glue. My fav construction adhesive is probably Sika adhesive, the gooey PL stuff is pretty good too but I'll always grab a tube of Sika before anything else.

[@TitanKorki1]

Thank you for this presentation of wood glued, was thinking of getting weld-bond glue and it seems that it looks really good on the graphs without hot glue or epoxy

[@ajromanelli]

This is another great set of comparison videos, nice work!

[@chrisgriffith1573]

The adhesion of the glue to the softer wood is better than that of the hardwood, however, that bond works against the strength of the test not for the strength of the glue, but FOR its strength over the wood, the wood is sure to fail faster, most of the failures happened due to the rigidity of the glue, and the lack of strength in the lignin bond between the layers of wood.

[@wolflahti412]

I've had bad experiences using both construction adhesive and Gorilla Glue (the foaming kind). The joints were not under stress (Gorilla glue - trim on outdoor projects, construction adhesive - hardwood decking lying atop PT joists), but over time (a couple months), they literally just fell apart.

[@1pcfred]

I don't understand that foaming glue at all. And it can go bad really fast too. I've heard some people that absolutely love using it. They clearly know things I don't.

[@woodshopnerdery]

Awesome video, but 2 questions; 1. I have always heard/read that wood glue works as best as it can when both parts are smooth and well fitting. The logic being that the glue bonds fiber to fiber not to itself, so the more fibers touching equals more strength. The pine samples seemed to be very rough, well beyond typical "tooth" such as from a fresh sanding, including what looks like chip out and sawblade marks. Though a glue joint may be adequate with such roughness, it would not represent the maximum performance of the glue, if what I heard was correct. But, Matthias seemed to indicate that his expectation for wood glue was that it would be stronger on the rough surfaces. So that makes me wonder if I have misunderstood? 2. Does anyone have any data on how much strength is "adequate" for certain applications? I like these empirical demonstrations, but it leaves me wondering whether or not all of these samples were strong enough regardless of which was strongest. In other words, the construction adhesive, which I do NOT use, was the weakest but its possible that it would strong enough for a given application assuming the wood joint was well made?

[@jeidun]

i've been watching you for about 4 years now inspired to do some tinkering, but as i live in a city, i can't have a workshop one day, i'll get a 3d printer and actually start doing tinkering like you do keep up the good work! -some 17 year old

[@naturelovertx]

I long ago switched from TiteBond to Gorilla wood glue because most of my projects require staining. I always wondered whether there is a difference in strength because I never see anyone else using it. In my experience though, if TiteBond gets on the finished surface prior to staining, it is a huge pain to get that spot to take stain. On the contrary, with the white gorilla glue, it is much easier to scrape and sand any drips and squeeze-out. And, on lighter stains, if I miss a spot, the drips are a lot less noticeable because it does take some stain.

[@uzundeprem5743]

just sat down and watched a video on glue and it was amazing thank you friend

[@NomadMakes]

Thank for your an entertaining and informative video! I'd love to see you test the hide glues as well. Both Old Brown Glue and Titebond Hide glue. Again thanks for great content. Cheers from Norway.

[@ralfwidmann9372]

Very interesting. I'd love to see how bone glue or casein glue would come off under the same circumstances...

[@krenwregget7667]

Gotta love empirical evidence. I've used Titebond III for a long time and will probably continue since I'm very familiar with it's dry times for big glue-ups. However, for small, quick projects I've started using CA glue and it's a wonder.

[@ChristianBehnke]

I'm really surprised that the PL performed as poorly as it did! Thanks for the testing.

[@TediumGenius]

Well done test Matthias! Excellent video!

[@PeteLewisWoodwork]

Interesting test. I know what I'll be looking for in future (depending on whether I am using hard or soft wood).

[@jsteifel]

Franklin (titebond) recommends full sanding of and smooth surfaces before gluing. They say rough wood will not bond as well. So looking at your softwood, I think that says a lot, vs the maple. The maple appeared to be smooth. Also wood that is not surfaced may have started to oxidize and therefore block the full bonding. epoxy likes a mechanical bond, so the softwood might be an advantage. Still an eyeopener. That opening test of hot glue had me on the edge of my seat. I never consider hot glue as a good perm bond.. so that first one was totally bizarre.

[@Trystaticus]

love these strength tests

[@IEnjoyCreatingVideos]

Nice job on the testing Matthias! Thanks for sharing with us!👍💖😎JP

[@doktorjonsson3860]

I like Matthias' scientific aproach to the test: Random KZbin comment: You're wrong Matthias: No, you're wrong and here's some data to back it up 😅

[@ProDMiner]

That is way he is the GOAT!

[@SteifWood]

*If* he had included some basic stats like a variance analysis, I agree ....

[@tracybowling1156]

Do you like making those graphs as much as you like performing the tests? They are always so nice, those graphs. It's definitely a highlight of the video.

[@peterdguru]

I keep most of glues in the beer fridge especially superglue & polyU glues. Keeps for years.

[@Midnotion]

I'd be interested to see how the glues would perform if the pressure were coming from 90 degrees to the current setup (i.e. pressure against the flat rather than the edge of each sample, thus changing from torsion to tension)

[@marc_frank]

shear

[@Hematite1000]

Great testing and a great video. I am curious about longevity of these glues. While one may be better shortly after gluing, which one will provide the most strength years down the line? It would be interesting if you had some of these samples sitting in a garage for a few years to test strength after time and after experiencing temperature variance.

[@SPICY_BEAR]

My guess would be the epoxy glues. 🤔

[@Patron77770]

this video is awesome, I love how well documented it is. would be cool if you could do a video of different woods to see their durability as well. been wondering durability between domestic and imported birch and the refinished birch, so many options out there.

[@KingSobieski]

Think some construction adhesive is made to be weak so all it's intended for is to go under floors to help prevent squeeks and not really hold strongly.

[@ignisfatuus]

I would like to see results on adding water to claggy wood glue. I have an old gallon I usually find myself having to add a little bit of water to, followed by a good shaking every time I refill my applicator bottle. Seems to do the trick.

[@BEzzell]

Would you do a similar test of Titebond II? I can’t remember exactly why, but I was under the impression that TBII was stronger than TBIII, and that the reason to use III was not that it is stronger but that it is more waterproof.

[@ihd-3603]

Lately, I’ve had bad luck with titebond 3 joints popping loose after a year or two, not sure why. Perhaps I got a bad bottle or didn’t shake it up enough? What’s odd though is all the cutting boards I made with titebond 3 are fine. Also, I think the gorilla wood glue is usually type 2 and titebond 3 is a type 1 wood glue.

[@maxamos7]

There are a lot of different kinds of construction glue. Would have been nice to see the different ones. That being said, I love this video.

[@wolfman75]

Wow!!!! A lot of testing!!!! Thanks for the great info!!!!!