Which MR2 Intake Is Best? Part 1 - Bodge Squad

[@CarThrottle]

Now then, KZbin.

[@D4VE26]

Basted!!

[@georgepeg6167]

Oh

[@thedownshiftchannel]

Big up Yorkshire

[@thedownshiftchannel]

Fancy Dan with his dyno time and fancy stuff

[@PaulE46]

I'm putting my money on the original Airbox and performance panel filter.

[@mikepowers572]

Seems like the original setup but with the correct sized MAF adapter could be best for cooler airflow without metering errors at the MAF. Pulling air from the rear seems daft as it'll be either hot from the engine draft and/or lower pressure due to being in the wake of the car. Side vent, maybe with some extra ducting, is the best chance of getting cooler and higher pressure air to the filter. Are you also going to test the intake runner length on the dyno to see if that also has an effect? In theory a longer intake would make a bit more torque. My own MR2 lost power with an open style filter, it also lost torque. The stock airbox had slightly less peak hp at the redline but more area under the curve everywhere else. during testing use SAE uncorrected at the wheels readings, to avoid correction errors masking the changes. Good luck!!

[@HenryOCarmichaelSmith]

Standard air box with some heat reflective tape on it. OEM panel filter as anything with oil on it is going to cover the MAF wire in oil and you'll lose even more power through contaminated MAF wire. Try cleaning it with contact cleaner or replace for new genuine. Also remember that Dyno numbers might not account for heatsoak throughout an entire race. Personally anything pulling air directly from a hot engine bay is a bad idea

[@vinnyvtec8722]

What I've always found to be the best scenario for most engines under 2 litres is to keep standard air box, replace standard filter with a high flow filter (my preference being green cotton), have a cold feed sealed to the air box pointing somewhere it's going to get air rammed into it with the least amount of bend, smooth the bumps and crap on the inside of airbox and replace the standard air hose with a smooth one that's not ribbed. The standard air hose is only ribbed from the factory for noise reduction, which doesn't matter for racing or performance. One other thing as well, make sure the airbox is closed properly. Might sound silly but I had a focus st170 once where the airbox lid didn't fit right and there were gaps all around and once I bought a new one that wasn't distorted the car seemed to gain a bit more pull and seemed less lethargic at lower revs according to my butt Dyno. Induction kits sound cool but most of the time it's a trade off between low down torque and high rpm bhp. If you're being beaten off the line at the start, I'd guess your induction kits not optimal til high rpm, by that point you're playing catch up with the pack. I've got to mention though, I have no experiences with Toyota MR-S's though, just cars like Clio cups, st170's, honda civics/accords/preludes, old Sciroccos/golf gti's, gc8 Impreza turbo's, nothing too modern

[@andrewweston2319]

Hi Danny the set up I built for Bill Gallacher who won the mk3 class a few years ago. was std box but I cut the divider out of the top the fins I left but cut the lower divider changed all the intake for silicone and wrapped in box in aluminium tape. The biggest mod was the inside side scoop I fiberglassed a piece of tube on so the air is fed straight into the filter using the std route So in other words I optimized the standard air box We also had an exhaust manifold made with in the rules that was a lot better than the Toyo one you have. It's all about a bit here and a bit there all within the rules everything has to be 100% cause everyone else is looking for same thing THE ADVANTAGES

[@sataneatcheese6243]

As far as I know doing my own little bit of research, using the standard box on a standard engine should be your best bet. As you have already mentioned, modifying the standard box would be better by allowing the air to have a more of a smoother journey through your inlet thus reducing the amount of turbulent air inside your inlet. I've seen velocity stacks inserted into an airbox to smooth inlet air out and have seen people smooth the inside of the box out as well. Also, using a silicon inlet pipe instead of the stock rubber one would help as the stock ones have all sorts of bumps and imperfections inside them to reduce, I think, induction noise. I'd possibly look into using a bigger air box off of another car as that can sometimes help with letting in more cooler air and being less restrictive. Lastly, try and heat proof the stock air box as well with some heat reflective tape or heat shielding.

[@hansiwurst7492]

Stoked to see the results!

[@brunotrdful]

In my Celica t sport I have all the tubing in 70mm including the maf housing (throttle body 69mm) and a hks mushroom inserted in the standard intake box. I have also funneled air from the bumper to the stock intake box

[@elliot438bcfcVTEC]

Liked but be back later with a cuppa

[@DomX2008]

Also wrap that aluminum pipe with some silver / gold heat wrap, will help reflect under bonnet temps and keep air charge cool - exaggerated when racing so not necessarily needed for someone's daily driver but when you're pushing the limits of N/A every little partial BHP helps!

[@pw_e46_m3]

The last bit with the dog woke my dog up 🤣🤣

[@JamesChurchill3]

Bit of Orbital as background music at 10:00 - Approved!

[@D4VE26]

Cant wait to see the results from different set ups dan 👍

[@bigdorkification]

The diameter is important because, on a stock map especially, the wider the diameter of the MAF housing, the lower the velocity of the air passing through, past the MAF sensor, making the MAF sensor read a lower value. obviously, the opposite happens with narrower housing. maybe not enough to trigger a code, but definitely enough for the ECU to trim the fuelling.

[@alackofspeed]

From 2ZZ Mk3 MR2 experience (similar sensitivity to setup as the 1ZZ), getting the vanes and diameter correct is crucial for success. Once that's sorted, focus on the air temp (get the filter near to the NS pod/vent) and minimising DP across the filter.

[@dannyDC2]

Absolutely spot on

[@TheMick26]

Hey Danny.🖐 On the road again...🎶 It was a chill video which works out good for me today. I like how you're taking a scientific approach to getting the MR2 where it needs to be. Good to see you've got several setups to try on the dyno and hopefully you found one that pepped up the Toyota just enough to give you the competitive edge you're looking for. Already liked and subscribed, so I'm sending prayers for the bodge squad.😉 I guess we'll see how she came out on part 2. Big Shoutouts to the Scottish guy making a guest appearance around 10:32 and everyone's favourite pupper at the end. I just wish I had more thumbs up to give.👍👍 Enjoy the other half of your weekend, mate. Cheers.

[@dannyDC2]

Haha cheers Mick! Dyno day was today and I definitely have some interesting results to share!

[@upfactoryracing4148]

Yeah if you are running an open element filter next to the header I would use a heat shield facing the header to isolate those temps. They make heat shields that attach to where the coupler clamp ties on. They are spaced away from the filter like 2inches and cover half the filter side. Best of luck👍

[@garysimpson8860]

Standard air box all day long with foam filter open filters in the engine bay just get hot air all the time , but I’m probably talking hot air though , keep up the good work and good luck in your next race fella 👍

[@nevillemaycry3]

If that MAF adapter you've had printed is a smaller diameter than stock then the air will be going faster through it than the stock MAF housing, cooling the MAF more than stock. So your stock MAF might be thinking there's more air going in than there actually is, because it thinks your MAF housing is a larger diameter (which would supply a larger volume of air at the velocity the MAF is experiencing in your current smaller diameter housing) and it may be over-fuelling.

[@dannyDC2]

Interesting thoughts, I think you’ll find the dyno video interesting!

[@DomX2008]

You would be better off with an AEM DryFlow filter (No Oil) - MAF sensors especially hot wire type are susceptible to oil contamination from oiled filters. Issues may not occur right away but over time and in your case every race, the MAF will slowly die and need replacing. Hope that helps.

[@whoisgoogle]

Yes Dan

[@feyergaetan]

With a MAF mod with the stock airbox+ 2zz injectors and the maf a bit higher it work really fine

[@seanandersen5752]

Think I would be getting the injectors cleaned as it's an old car prob even take the head off make sure the valves are sealing properly there must be people running rebuilt prob even blueprinted motors.

[@ALXBurnett]

Those Ramair Prorams with velocity stack are meant to be really good!

[@AKAMustang]

Thoughts and prayers.

[@fedezyl]

Might be worth to build an enclosing for that air filter and try to get some ram air effect from that side intake, might be worth a few HP at higher speeds. I had a ram air setup on my RX-8 before going turbo and it made a noticeable difference at high speeds.

[@amancars3807]

Sup danny, good to see you tried cutting that wall out 18:45, i did so on my stock air box... didnt have a dremel though so a flathead screwdriver heated on the hob did the job lol, and also replaced the tight constricted pipe that goes into the airbox with a 3" steel, 60 degree angle, pipe chopped to fit. Gorilla taped securely on both sides The air intake sound is definetely louder now, sounds better and resonant,.and i assume it reduces resistance to air flow greatly (and feels to me that it gives more power, but obvs one could say its placebo. Until i re-hit the dyno and score a higher bhp) but yea im deffo happy with these mods. Didnt touch the MAF side vanes though.

[@quicknickdriver8510]

Hmm interesting times Dan. Hope you retrieve the lost horses.

[@danh188]

Some proper music in this one, The The 👌👌

[@Truzo]

Looking forward to the dyno video, I'm currently looking for a good spot to place a filter in my 2zz swap. Currently using the stock airbox.

[@meister_harris5623]

Cuplers and jubilees- a car mans worst nightmare.

[@dannyDC2]

Haha I don’t mind it tbf

[@mattteee2973]

Glad I waited right to the end before clicking any dislike buttons;)

[@Cloverleaf7642]

It’s going to be better than ideal.

[@Eichsauce]

ive made a crude drawing for an "icebox" style intake if you'd wanna see it. but the stock airbox is small to fit a cone but theres ways around it i guess. seems really simple to make though with what you have and might make an improvement over stock design

[@HrV147]

There is no correlation for maf distance to throttle body, although there can be an argument for a small increase in air mass at WOT by placing maf too close to throttle body due to manifold vacuum causing acceleration. The Maf calculates the air mass from pipe diameter and how deep it sits in the pipe. Put it where you like aslong as it sits at the same height in the same diameter housing. Gl with the dyno, interested to see the results

[@dannyDC2]

Heard arguments for and against with the distance shebang

[@cxrism4618]

Regarding the pipe diameter, was that why the mr2 wasn't running right when Dan fitted the adapter housing with larger inner diameter? ECU not mapped to recognize the new distance of how deep maf sensor sits in housing so car won't run right?

[@HrV147]

@@cxrism4618 ecu reads maf voltage for relative rpm and ecu takes this knowledge to inject the fuel relative to air coming in, so if your intake is too big the maf signal doesnt increase with revs because theres not enough air mass being read to tell ecu to add more fuel

[@cxrism4618]

@@HrV147 Thanks for the explanation!

[@spamsac]

63mm vs 66mm is a 9% reduction in area, so not insignificant!

[@LupinYonderboy]

For Science! I'm not a fan of guessing, forum hearsay, myth, what everyone else does. Test and know for sure! Really looking forward to the dyno results

[@rafapozzan]

You need a tune for the bigger MAF housing

[@muzzrmuzzracing2394]

when you hit the accelerator is the car is throttle body 100% open

[@dannyDC2]

Yes lol

[@benmiller9552]

Fingers crossed it gets you back in the mix

[@nizarbouchama1593]

Superb job!

[@2zz98]

Have you thought about the combination of standard airbox + k&n panel filter + wider elbow pipe to the side vent? Or maybe is the restrictive shape of the standard elbow actually producing better airflow. 🤷‍♂️

[@kalbiggins7460]

I'm having an idle issue with mine, think having an open filter a.d the heat inside the bay is my cause

[@BenPro87]

Danny, never apologise for the background music being too loud, especially when it's 808 state, Orbital, etc. What bout making a Spotify playlist and sharing it with Patreons?

[@revolutions88]

The legend NOW THEN

[@Stevelangdon93]

Velocity stack and all diameter matched 👌🏻 As for F1 who dya like?

[@asiat30]

Unfortunately, a velocity stack is a good way to break the engine.

[@Stevelangdon93]

@@asiat30 how so? Obviously with a filter on!

[@asiat30]

@@Stevelangdon93 PPI foarm = good but finally same as CAI. Even if I love velocity stack sound, street/race use is, to me not appropriate for the MR-S. CAI located behind the battery is "above" the wheel, where sucking stones is highly probable.

[@marin2523]

Bicep boys in the beginning 👌

[@michaeladgo]

Mr Dinkleberry

[@xBlooDxTears]

I'm assuming you can't change out injectors? Otherwise would suggest giving MAF mod a go. Can you mess around with your fueling system at all for tuning?

[@grahamwallace4355]

Have you thought about putting the filter directly behind the vent under the left guard. I'm actually mounting my one there in my 2ZZ swap.

[@asiat30]

The goal of CAI is have better air velocity (quicker engine response). While doing like you do, you will lost the potential gain of a CAI. While driving, hot air from engine bay will go out and let ambiant air coming from side vent (only if you remove plastics below engine).

[@grahamwallace4355]

@@asiat30 Sorry moving the filter out of the engine bay into the left guard where the vent is will only improve the cold air intake. I'm not sure if you understand what I suggested.

[@asiat30]

​@@grahamwallace4355 For the MR-S, air filter behind the battery is the best way. I misunderstood you first comment. If I understood, you want to keep OEM airbox setup?

[@GeorgeEI7KO]

You could put nitrous in the fire extinguisher and plumb it in to the intake. They'll never know...

[@lawrences1347]

Wonder if you could very slightly oversize the MAF housing (2/3mm) to lean it out a bit and maybe make a tiny bit more power.

[@dannyDC2]

Unfortunately quite a bit more complicated

[@MrBadeshi]

good video as usual... new camera/setup has greenscreen vibes? depth of field I guess...

[@D4VE26]

Dan is there a min. Max. Weight for your class? My bet is a good panel filter in a modified box will be best.

[@dannyDC2]

Yeah 1000kg with me in it. I was about 30kg over most recently

[@highpeakbirds6685]

Great videos, ta for doing them 👍

[@robcottonrallying]

If you change the diameter of the MAF housing you will need to rescale the MAF reading in the ECU (if your regulations allow it). The ECU uses the MAF reading as a small percentage of the total air flowing through the housing so if you change the housing diameter then the ECU's interpretation of the volume of air in the engine is very inaccurate. I calculated the difference in cross-sectional area between the 63mm and the 66mm MAF housings and the 63mm housing is only 91.1% of the cross-sectional area of the 66mm housing, that's almost 10% less air that you are getting providing that is the bottleneck.

[@cxrism4618]

Thanks for this explanation, was wondering why the mr2 didn't run right with the larger maf housing. Thought it was just the data in the ecu not being changed to the new values but you explained it clearly

[@TheShaki98]

@DannyDC2 can you run a ccv catch can? You reckon you could gain better air through that? Regardo,

[@dannyDC2]

Not sure on the gains there tbh

[@777MAV]

Are you allowed to mess with IAT or coolant temp sensor to make ECU to think it's cold and it needs to run a bit richer?

[@dannyDC2]

Not officially but who knows what’s going on!

[@headleshydra]

Danny, have you heard of caps maf mod? I assume from what you've said in previous videos it's not allowed....it involves bigger injectors installed so assume that automatically rules it out

[@dannyDC2]

Indeed

[@georgepeg6167]

I’m interested what with the Astra van Danny boy ?

[@micheltebraake7915]

The quest for horsepower!

[@fabokavrs]

Is it worth logging IAT with the different setups to see which keeps the lower temp? Maybe over a race distance the engine bay gets pretty hot for a open cone setup.

[@dannyDC2]

I logged them from my last race so will be able to compare

[@esc0rz]

808 State @ 10:29 😮😮😮

[@nizam_mr]

For the 3D printed adapter, do you think by sanding the inner can get you the 3mm that you're missing assuming its printed with thick enough wall ?

[@dannyDC2]

I’m not confident I could sand it perfectly round haha

[@matt260]

everyone has a J-Spec with a guy named Andy lol.. From Canada

[@TrueBlueEG8]

14:35 obtuse or acute angle or radius

[@bunkaaa8726]

Sounds like you need to get that stock ecu fucked off, get a tuner on the case. MAF's sound like a pain in the arse haha

[@dannyDC2]

Lol if only I could

[@AKAMustang]

One like for doggo. Two likes for moo cows.

[@dehv]

Place your bets!

[@weatherall68]

My moneys on a modified standard airbox.

[@BigAuf_]

Hi Dan, HKS mushrooms are famously restrictive, thanks bye

[@dannyDC2]

Famously where? Stats suggest otherwise 👀

[@victorbernabe4294]

Is the rules for this race series that strict that you cannot use aftermarket ecu’s?

[@mikepowers572]

yes, stock only. but the air filter is open for mods. it's the MR2 Championship

[@MrShameless90]

I like yer em are twu

[@realMaverickBuckley]

The one attached to a K20?

[@dannyDC2]

Noooo

[@brianmcintyre14]

Math.....that's worth a down vote! I won't but still pretty upset

[@dannyDC2]

Pardon