Whirlpool WRB322DMBM Not Cooling & Defrost Solutions! Diagnosis Mode Explained

Facing issues with your Whirlpool Refrigerator WRB322DMBM? In this comprehensive guide, we dive deep into various problems like the fridge not cooling and common jazz board diagnostics. Whether you have a Whirlpool WRB322DMBM00 or WRB322DMBM01, we cover a range of troubleshooting steps to help you resolve these issues efficiently.
🔍 Topics Covered:
Whirlpool refrigerator WRB322DMBM problems
Whirlpool WRB322DMBM00 fridge not cooling
Whirlpool WRB322DMBM01 not cooling
Whirlpool jazz board diagnostics
Whirlpool jazz board forced defrost
Whirlpool refrigerator WRB322BMBM force defrost
Whirlpool fridge WRB322BMBM diagnosis mode
🛠️ If you’re experiencing issues with your Whirlpool refrigerator, such as it not cooling properly, this video will guide you through the necessary steps to identify and potentially resolve the problem. Learn about jazz board diagnostics, how to force defrost, and other troubleshooting tips.
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[@barrydean9051]

This was an excellent video. It saved me a lot of money. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you!!!

[@onlineappliancetech]

Thank you for watching and sharing your feedback! I appreciate it!

[@FebrezeWarrior96]

Thank you! So much money and time saved. Great video!

[@onlineappliancetech]

You're welcome!

[@FebrezeWarrior96]

The new control board came in today. Got it installed and programed but I'm still not getting voltage at the white and orange wires when in forced defrost. Could I be working with a bad fan? White and orange wires are showing 30 ohms.

[@MarceloTinelli.]

I have the same refrigerator only that on my display I have two horizontal lines, how can I solve that?

[@familyvideos102]

Great video!! It was very very good

[@onlineappliancetech]

Thank you for your kind words! It means a lot to me that you enjoyed the video.

[@Rick-fk2db]

Excellent post, helped me to have the courage to accomplish this. I used alligator clips at the ends of my probes and then the clips held straight pins to get down inside The white and orange ports. No voltage, replaced the board, easy peasy. I can't easily find those extensions that you have in this video. Where can I find those wavy pointy extensions? Thanks!

[@Rick-fk2db]

It is in his written description

[@mattr5706]

Not sure if I did it wrong/different but after the display went from F/D to S, I had to hit the fridge - one more time to get the defrost on with the 120v. I got the 120v then. I then checked the continuity and got 30 ohms from O/W and W/Br. I’m going to wait for it to defrost to check the thermostat continuity again, but it sounds like everything checked is working correct. Could it be something else causing it to freeze up?

[@larryrichardson5167]

Where can I find the tech manual/steps for the mfc2062fez ? . It's almost like this, except the controller has actual temp (2 digits). Will the same steps work ? I've tried looking online for the manual, and there are like 2000 sites that come up, but either don't have it, or have the user manual.

[@stefanieneveu3862]

Thanks for posting this...if we detect no voltage across white and orange, the short forced defrost test, should we just buy a new control board?

[@onlineappliancetech]

Yes, if you didn't detect voltage in test mode, that's likely the issue. Have you performed a continuity check on the white and orange wires unplugged from your MPC? They should read between 20-25 ohms. You can also check the brown and orange wires for your bi-metal thermostat. If your freezer is still frozen behind the panel, it should read 0.1-0.6 ohms; if it doesn't, it's defective. However, it needs to be covered in ice for this test. If you've already defrosted the unit, it should read as open. Regarding your original question, your MPC should show a 120 volts output in SHORT DEFROST diagnostic test mode.

[@user-fv7xe9xn3q]

Thanks so much! Very helpful!! I did the diagnostic tests and for 1-6 the result was "S" in the fridge window, and for 3-6 there was no noise for the freezer fan at all. Does this point to the fan needing to be replaced? For all other tests I heard the systems toggle on and off.

[@onlineappliancetech]

It's great to hear that the diagnostic tests were helpful! Based on the results you shared, it does seem like the freezer fan might need to be replaced.

[@steveglenn1585]

You didn't example what "pass", "open" or "short" mean.

[@onlineappliancetech]

Pass: This indicates that the circuit or the component being tested is functioning correctly. It means that the circuit is behaving as expected under the test conditions. In a pass condition, the electrical properties like resistance, voltage, and current are within the specified limits for the circuit's correct operation. Open: An "open" condition means there is a break or discontinuity in the circuit. This could be due to a broken wire, a failed component, or a poor connection that prevents current from flowing through the circuit as intended. An open circuit will typically show an infinite or very high resistance when measured with a multimeter, as there is no complete path for current flow. Short: A "short" (short circuit) occurs when there is an unintended path between two points in a circuit, allowing current to flow directly without passing through the intended path or components. This usually happens due to a fault like insulation breakdown or a component failure, causing a connection that bypasses part of the circuit. Short circuits can be dangerous as they often result in excessive current flow, leading to overheating, component damage, or even fire.