WHITE RODGERS 1311 SERVICING, SEQUENCE OF OPERATION, WIRING,TROUBLESHOOTING

IN THIS VIDEO YOU WILL SEE EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO SUCCESSFULLY,
SERVICE, WIRE, AND TROUBLESHOOTE THE WHITE RODGERS 1311

[@jtw56073]

This is a excellent video explaining these valves. Keep up the great work, you are helping many people

[@skiaspensnowmass]

I have 6 of these White Rodgers 1311's and one zone sporadically fails to pass hot water past the valve. This is one of the best DIY videos I have ever come across as an HVAC noob. My confidence in approaching a fix went from very little to 100% sure I might not have to call a pro.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

thank you so much. Thanks for your subscription. I have a few more videos on this white Rodgers valves. thanks

[@beerman7079]

First guy that knows how to explain it..2 heating companys couldnt diagnose the problem.. with this i fixed the problem myself.it wasn't closing and just kept heating thank you your the man👍

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Wow!! I so glad you fixed it yourself. Thank you so much for your comment. See you next video.

[@Go1US1Marines]

Excellent tutorial! You can work on my heating system anytime. I drew an electrical schematic of my 3 zone system, and identified the Open, Close, and 24V wires to each thermostat before I figured out that the technician from Xcel energy had completely ignored the wiring instructions of the new thermostat he installed. It now works properly.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Im glad to hear that. Please subscribe thanks a bunch. See you next video

[@beerman7079]

Most heating guys don't know shit about electrical..

[@zoidelux]

Thank you so much for this video I can’t thank you enough, I’m an HVAC tech and this is the first time coming across this valve and single pole double throw thermostat , Always exciting learning something new

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Ryan, Im glad it was useful to you. Keep up the good work. keep up learning.

[@dhurban]

Outstanding! Thank you so much for making what looks complicated to be relatively simple.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hey Donn Thanks so much for your subscription. See you around

[@AllanKobelansky]

You earned a subscription. Nice job! Saved me lots of work as I only had to replace the motor. No plumbing.

[@nafsekiv9021]

Great job! Very thorough and informative. Thanks for the help

[@alexthehandyman3494]

My pleasure!!! Thanks for the like and press that subscribe button.

[@williamneilambrosini1334]

Absolute perfection. My many, many thanks to you.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Thank you so much William. I appreciate your comment.

[@MikeSperano]

Excellent video. Great job articulating the details.

[@brucekato8918]

Thank you for the video This is the best information on the White Rodgers 3-wire zone valve (1311-102) and its operation I have found. Thank you! I also hope you might do a similar video installing a Nest or Ecobee thermostat using the White Rodgers 1311-102 zone valve using a SPDT relay. In addition, perhaps a video on using White Rodgers 1361-102 zone valve (2-wire) and how it would be wired to a Nest or Ecobee thermostat.

[@joeantoniopacheco]

This video is top notch. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

My pleasure!! Thank you!!

[@jivepatrol6833]

Good video and explanation! Thank you.

[@calebverheye4449]

Thanks for sharing the knowledge on these

[@boratboratbekov4042]

Very thorough and informative. Thank You!

[@alexthehandyman3494]

thank you so much

[@josephivie1314]

White Rodgers zone valves will mess you up. 1311 1361. These things will learn you. Good video & explanation on this zone valve. I'd rather replace them but sometimes that's not an option. Make it happen.

[@l.a.m7645]

Can you do a 2 wire one. I have no 6 terminal on WR zone valve?

[@greg6264]

Yes, I also have a two wire setup. 1361-102 My valves stick occasionally. I've replaced the valve part. Still sticking, so I replaced the motor. Still sticking occasionally. I can't figure it out. 3 zones. 3 valves,. 1 pump. They all work fine mist if the time, but 2 if them stuck occasionally. One sticks on, the other sticks off.

[@terrelllowry5225]

Alex your presentation was fantastic . you explained the function of zones better than my HVAC instructor from now on i will call you the professor

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hey Terrel Lowry. I just saw your comment. Thank you so much!!

[@c.w.2580]

Thanks for the great tutorial. Very informative. I'm installing a new Honeywell T4 Pro thermostat (programmable). I have the White Rodgers 1311 zone valve, 3-wire (red, green, white). Can i run a wire from the #1 terminal to the thermostat location to serve as the common wire when installing a new, digital "smart" thermostat? Is there an alternative that wouldn't require pulling a 4th wire to the thermostat location (e.g. running a jumper at the thermostat)? The thermostats on the first floor wouldn't be too hard to pull a 4th wire to because the basement ceiling is open, but pulling a 4th wire to the two thermostats on the 2nd floor could be a bit harder.

[@dogpile25]

Thanks for the great info!!! Quick question if there’s a two apartments 2 zone set up and the one apartments thermostat is set to call for heat but it only opens when the second apartment calls for heat I’m assuming it’s a wiring issue?

[@BloodAndBourbon]

Thanks for the info , I had one of these in 1 1/4 snap shut on me this weekend . Happened to find ONE in a 30 mile radius lol I burned in a new valve body and put the new actuator and it works fine but it’s humming in the closed position. And ideas?

[@thomasreddick5908]

Oh, Thank you so much.... I now have a better idea of the system and how to check to see where there may be a problem. I have a question for you, I have a single house with 3 zones and would love to have a wifi controlled thermostat and have looked at the Nest but it needs a 24v to power it. Could I split the 2 wire and use that at the thermostat and at the zone valve to give the thermostat its power wire? Or could i just buy a 120v to 24v transmitter? Also if the nest would not work is there a wifi programable thermostat like the Nest you would recommend? Thank you so much... you made my day. God Bless you..

[@PeterHazen-jf4qe]

Great video Alex. Do you have the same video for a 1361-102 value? My issue is the value sometimes closes when the thermostat reaches the temp and sometimes it remains open allowing water to still pass. When I look at the thermostat it says the zone is off but yet the value is open and I need to manually close it. What do you suggest I do? Could the wiring be off?

[@gerritcain210]

On your #1 thermostat at the end (white Rodgers where does the #6 wire from the valve go on the thermostat?

[@robertwadas]

I have 3 zones. Wired exactly like you have. It also has a hydrostat 3200. Sometimes a zon will not open or close when the them calls for it to complete an open or close. If I push the disc a little bit, it will then start moviving electrically. The zone valves are brand new, they move freely in the pipe so there is no build up or any physical imits why it wont move without a nudge. I actually bought 2 more valves with the same results... could it be a setting within the hydrostat which is 1/2 year old ? I tried exchanging thermostats with same results. Most common is the middle zone valve not closing when it reachs shut off point and temp rises in my middle floor.

[@quaked4]

I have a zone valve that keeps spinning. I replaced the power head but it still spins. What would cause the holding circuit to not work properly?

[@JAMESROCK-lf4sy]

good stuff thank you

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Thank you much James. You rock.

[@user-ks2vx4mn9k]

Good instruction! I have a heat system using White Rodgers 1311-102 zone valves. One of them is not responding to its thermostat now. But it can be manually open and close. So, it looks like the head of the valve needs to be replaced. Thank you for the tutorial!

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Thank you !1. let me know if that fixes it. I have another video tutorial how to replace it. It might help.

[@user-ks2vx4mn9k]

What interesting is that: now another zone valve got stuck as well! It hasn't happened for over 12 years. But now they are running into problems at the same time. I wonder if it is water triggered the problem. Here I use well water. I may have ignored to change water filter for too long. Maybe hard substance in water jammed valves. Could it be the issue? If so, how should I resolve the problem. I will appreciate your advice. Thanks!

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello @@user-ks2vx4mn9k 12 years sound about right. If one went the other valves that were installed about the same time will follow. The boiler system is a closed loop. It hardly needs any water at all . The automatic fill valve will activate if water level goes down. but it should be once in a blue moon. So don't worry about well water. Peace;!!

[@user-ks2vx4mn9k]

Thank you, Alex! I will get both of them replaced.

[@user-ks2vx4mn9k]

What interesting is that: now another zone valve got stuck as well! It hasn't happened for over 12 years. But now they are running into problems at the same time. I wonder if it is water triggered the problem. Here I use well water. I may have ignored to change water filter for too long. Maybe hard substance in water jammed valves. Could it be the issue? If so, how should I resolve the problem. I will appreciate your advice. Thanks!

[@virginiagaffney]

I had a new White Rodgers 1311-102 Zone-A-Flow water valve installed last week replacing one that was 30 years old. When the new one turns on and off it is very, very loud. Is this a common problem with this valve?

[@joshuawallace7993]

I’m having a problem with one of these where when heat calls the valve starts to open but continues to spin till it’s back to the shut position

[@michaellynn9651]

THANK YOU!

[@alexthehandyman3494]

My pleasure!!!! Thanks for subscribing. See you next video.

[@dpm1301]

Great video Alex. My question, at 20:55 you jump 5 & 6 to close the valve. Why do you disconnect the thermostat before you do that? My valve wouldn't close & I jumped 5 & 6 but forgot to remove the thermostat, and now I get no heat at all.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello, By removing the thermostat we are isolating the valve. Other wise the valve gets two different signals at the same time. (1)you jumping it (2)thermostat opening or closing. So.... when you remove it it the only command is getting is the jumping action by you.

[@hungfather]

Thanks this was helpful! I'm trying to learn more about boilers. I have a customer that has a boiler with two zone valves. The boiler won't turn off, when the thermostat is already statisfied. The thermostat turns the 1311 zone valve to off but the boiler won't shut off. It only shuts off on high limit 175 degrees. I'm thinking it's a wiring issue because when i disconnect the contact (R,and G) to the relay for the pump and burners, the pump and burners finally turns off. What you think?

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello Tommy, Without knowing all the details as far as what kind of controls it has try this: 1. Tap a few times on the relay, if it disengages turning the boiler off, the relay has failed and it should be replaced. 2. Make sure thermostat wires and not shorted. If 4 and 5 wires are touching it will keep that boiler running all the time. 3. Shorted thermostat will tell the relay to stay on all the time. I hope this helps. Let me know., Good luck!!

[@hungfather]

Thanks u for the reply. I have a honey well universal ignition set up. I ended up rewiring the zone valves and turns out the R and C was wired reversed. Switched the wires and boom everything working like it should. Thanks @@alexthehandyman3494

[@CC-sf8jn]

Thank you, liked and subscribed. 1311 zone valve. New Emerson 11-pr Stat. When stat calls for heat, zone valve continues to rotate multiple revolutions and will not stop till stat temp is satisfied. Maybe wired wrong? Not sure what the O or B switch on the stat should be set to for a 1311 boiler zone valve? Thanks. Follow-up- FYI -Cust service number says 11-pr is not compatible with a 3 wire WR zone valve. Says 1F85U-22PR works with a 3 wire.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello, Thanks for your question? New thermostat? Please know that 99.9% of thermostat are not compatible with the WR zone valve. There are only a few ones that work. It has to be a single pole double throw. Look at the video again and there is a list of thermostat that work with that valve. I have another video: "thermostat that works with the 1311 WR". O or B are terminals for heat pump. Please let me know how it goes.

[@mikez1968]

Hey Alex I have a question for you. I have the same 3 wire boiler setup. I bought the honeywell T2 RTH5160D1003 thermostat that you recommended. My question is how did you wire it. I have 4 on W, 5 on Rh but 6 goes where?

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello Mike. Green wire from zone valve goes to Y of the thermostat. I made that video 2 years ago. The T2 worked fine then. I just tried a week ago and it didn't work!!! They changed it. Try and let me know if if works for you. If it does not. I have the solution for you: Please watch my latest video call " thermostat that works with the white Rodgers valve' There I explained further what's going on and I suggest another great thermostat from Lowe.

[@decoplasterstudio2064]

Hi, I have one of these White Rogers, it opens and closes but there is no heat. Right before the valve there is a manual shutoff which is open, I dont feel the pipe hot just , ( as I do with the other working zone) a bit warmer than the cold water pipe. My question is could this White Rogers operate but the inner mechanism be broken and nor rotate? thus not allowing the flow of hot water to run ? thank you!!!

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello Deco, Yes. that is very common . its seems like what you are suggesting is right, If it opens you should feel and hear water running, b ut is not. After a few years if service the gate of the valve corrodes and it freezes, not turning. See my video how to replace a WR zone valve. let me know how it goes, Thank so much

[@doityourself1768]

Great video. My pump never turns off. Zone valves open and close as they should, but the pump is constantly running when all 3 zone valves are closed. Any suggestions? Thanks

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello. It depends how your pump was wired. In some systems the pump runs 24/7, when you turn your boiler on the pump comes on at the same time. In other systems 5 and 3 closes the switch on the WR valve. 5 and 3 are connected to a relay. the relay controsl the pump. so it should come only when a call for heat. Follow the 120 wires from the pump back to the power source. It might be wired to the boiler switch. If not is connect it to a relay and the relay is stuck closed. Replace the relay. I hope this helps. Let me know. Greetings

[@ottoZ24]

I would suggest replacing the valve assembly if the O-rings are leaking. The O-ring kit is an inexpensive alternative but tedious and frustrating. The valve assembly F84-0433 is not painfully expensive and does the job nicely with new O-rings already installed.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Thanks David!!

[@travellingamy]

Hey Alex! I’m having issues with my valve and after watching your video, I don’t think I can find the cause, -I am not an electrician, I’m just trying to not freeze to death lol-. Here’s the issue: my valve doesn’t seem to STAY open, I can manually open it and 10 seconds later it start to rotate to close. I changed the thermostat for the other one I have in the house(which I know works with my second valve), it reads Heat On but my system is still somewhat cold, at this point I don’t know if the thermostat triggers the valve to open(but then closes straight after-just enough for a little bit of warmth) or just doesn’t open at all(and I’m confusing the warmth for the fact that I manually opened it at some point. How do I check that my thermostat is actually “connected” to the valve? Any help is appreciated, I love the learning experience of it all, but I feel like I’m at the end of the road now and I’m still cold 😂

[@travellingamy]

I have a 1361 valve with 2 wires going to my thermostat. Do you have a video on those?

[@magnumrealestate4586]

Have a 1361-102 White Rodgers in a 3 zone setup the middle zone valve won't' stop turning motor keeps turning. any Ideas will be greatly appreciated

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello Magnum, if it has been working fine for a while and you haven't made changes or replaced thermostat more than likely is the power head.

[@rongjini8535]

Great tutorial. I understood how this valves work much better from you than from my Hydronics class. I have a question. How can you wire this zone valve with a two wire thermostat. (if you don't have the green wire. Red and White only from the thermostat.) Thank you.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello, you cannot. This valve must be connected to a special thermostat that supports WR 3 wire valves.

[@marysmith9532]

I like your vídeo. I suscribed. Whats the difference with the 1311_103?

[@dahdahforsanful]

Dear Bro thank you for yur support but i have one question please ,,, as ur diagram T1 power from the (2,5) and when thermostat calling for heat power at the thermostat goes from 5R to 4W then go to 4 at the zone valve (now 2 ,,, 2-5,, and 4 now hot which case the zone valve to open ...after the valve full open ,,, now number 3 which i guss will be N (how it become connnected to 1 ) ? second issue when the termostat is satisfied and temp. reach as our requirement power disconnected from R5 and W4 ... after thermostat satisfied is power connected from R5 to Y6 at the termostat 6 at the zone valve how it is close the valve? thank you very musch for your explaning

[@soloymi]

THANK YOU

[@keithswynenburg2608]

What other types of 3wire thermostats are compatible with the 1311 that are not programmable?

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello there is a whole list on 22:60 Also watch the other video a have about another thermostat. It is programable but you can disable it in the back. "thermostat that works with the white Rodgers 1311". That is the name of the video, Good luck

[@ronpruett294]

I purchased the Honeywell Home RTH5160 and when I call for heat the valve opens , when I want to turn off the heat valve stays open.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello Ron< Im sorry to hear yo are having problems with your thermostat. Please do this: 1. Check all the wiring. Make sure all the wires are where they suppose to go. Go to the wiring section.4:05 2. Did you set up your new thermostat to hydronic system. Follow the instructions that came with the thermostat. It is 4-5 steps to pair the new thermostat with the type of heating system. 3. Go to troubleshoot tip number 3 at 14:51 and switch #4 and #5 at the thermostat. 4. Check the green # 6 to make sure is not broken or loose. Thats troubleshoot tip number 4. Please let me know how it goes. Good luck!!

[@frankjimenez9908]

How do I tie this zone valve with the newer Honeywell zone valves

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello Frank you cannot. They are not compatible. The thermostats are different. The WR need three wires plus, while the HW has two. Unless you have a dedicated pump and thermostat and pump control for the honeywell . It is like having to different systems in one boiler. My advice is stick with one or the other.

[@bygjoe1]

Have you ever wired 1361-102 ?

[@stevemcmahon6138]

Thanks Alex for the great video! If you were going to wire these 1311 zone valves to a Hydrolevel Hyrdrostat 3200-plus control, to the "T" and "TV" terminals to control the circulator pump, where would you connect the wire from the "T" terminal and where would you connect the "TV" terminal wire, on the 1311? See info from Hydrolevel on the Hydrostat 3200-plus for literature on the control (I tried to link to the PDF, but KZbin seems to not like that-?). I understand T & TV from the control need to be wired to the End Switch in order to control the circulator pump, but I am not sure which two terminals on the W-R 1311 make up this end switch. Thanks in advance for your help!

[@alexthehandyman3494]

HELLO STEVE Im not familiar with the Hydrolevel hydrostatat 3200. But to answer your question the end switch on the 1311 is terminal 5 and 3 so according with what you said connect T -TV to 5----3 Good luck . Let me know how it goes.

[@stevemcmahon6138]

@@alexthehandyman3494 Thanks Alex for the reply! As it turns out, the relay operated by T & TV on the Hydrostat control was stuck shut, so that's why the circulator pump would never turn off. The boiler repair tech was able to unstick the relay, and he connected T & TV on the control to terminals 2 & 3 on the White-Rodgers 1311 zone valve bank to give it information on the "End Switch" status. It is functioning properly now. Thanks again!!

[@fdcinccavalari5237]

what do i have to turn off in order to change the whole assembly so water does not come out?

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello. Hopefully you have one valve before and after Isolationg the valve. If not Close all the valves by the boiler and the house. All of them!! Of course turn the boiler off. Be prepare with rags and shallow buckets. . If you are going to open the systems and you did not have isolating valves, now is the time to install them. Let me know how it goes.

[@ccoppola82]

Not sure if you check this channel often. We had this valve replaced but in 1 1/4”. About a month after, woke up and the house was 90 degrees. Had it swapped to a new one. Does the same thing. The valve is TRYING to close. Makes a faint almost tick most of the times but it gets stuck in the open position. It doesn’t do this every time though. It will work for a couple days, then stick open again and I’ll either have to shut the boiler off or manually just nudge the valve dial and it will finish its cycle. Any ideas?? HVAC guy is at a loss it seems.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello, 1. chances of getting a NEW power head faulty right out of the box is one in a million but it can happen. 2. Check all your wires. Go to each terminal. cut half in on each wire, and start fresh with all your connections. 3. If 4 and 5 are switch opens but never close. Just for fun switch 4 and 5 to see what happens. if they were switched that will fix the problem. 4. If 4 and 6 are switched it will open but I will never close. 5 Check number 6 (green). if that is broken or loose it will never close . If is loose it might some times close and not other times. 6. If you previously replaced the power head but not the valve assemble, the valve assembly might be getting stuck and the motor is struggling to get it to open. Change the valve assembly. 7. As a last resource, pull new wiring. See the diagram. Install a new power head with a new valve assembly 8. Swap thermostats from a zone that works fine to see what happens. Thermostat might be at fault. Good luck. Let me know how it goes.

[@ccoppola82]

@@alexthehandyman3494 thanks so much for the detailed response. The first replacement was a full unit with motor and valve. The 2nd was as well. The odd thing is that it works sometimes, so the wiring seems to be in proper order. I watched it complete its cycle yesterday when testing. Then other times it gets hung up midway through the closing rotation. I can sometimes hear low power to it, but it’s like it cannot get past a fulcrum point on its own. When I gently rotate the dial 1-2mm, it seems to catch and turn again. This is a 2 wire as well. As far as I read, the stat doesn’t control the closing of the valve, only the call for heat. If that’s true, the wire from stat to valve is ok right? Could it be the transformer not pulling enough power?

[@alexthehandyman3494]

If we are talking about the 1311 White Rodgers valve .......That is a 3 wire valve and use a special thermostat single pole double throw. When calling for heat 5 and 4 make but at the same time it disangages the number 6 . When thermostat is satisfied 5 and 6 make to close the valve and disengages 4. If you don't have 6 the valve is never going to close. @@ccoppola82 I hope we are taking about a 1311 valve and not a 1361. 1361 uses a two wire thermostat.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

I don' think its is the transformer. But it might be if it doesn't have enough VA's Make sure it is at least 40 va. If all the valves call for heat at the same time then one of the valves might not have enough juice to operate properly But. I doubt this is not the problem

[@paulmuzereus9433]

My zone valve doesn't close completely. It keep on clicking. Can this be the transformer? Or is the valve bad?

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello Paul, More than likely is a bad valve. If it was a bad transformer it would not do anything but since is partially closing i wouldn't blame it on the transformer. Probably the holding circuit its faulty inside the valve not allowing it to close fully. Also the clicking noise might be from water deposit or rust inside the valve not allowing the valve to fully close physically ( the motor might be trying to close fully with no success. So more than likely the valve. Let me know how it goes.

[@lukeconnolly5608]

This is by far the best tutorial I have ever seen on KZbin. Magnificent explanation covering every aspect of this valve. Thank you.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Luke, Thank you so much for your comment. See you next video.

[@dinovelvet8933]

What would cause my valve to spin a complete 360 from closed to open to closed when the thermostat calls for heat?

[@user-nj9rx1bo5h]

Having the same issue

[@dinovelvet8933]

@@user-nj9rx1bo5h I found my zone wiring was all wrong. I rewired it and it works now. It was a White Rodgers valve.

[@user-nj9rx1bo5h]

Are you using 4,5,6 or R,W, B on the thermostat? What did you find was incorrect?

[@dinovelvet8933]

@@user-nj9rx1bo5h My system has 4 zones. 2 honeywell and 2 W-R. The Honeywell zones were wired wrong(end switches going to 24V and thermos). I rewired the honeywell zones correctly. The WR zones seemed to be mostly corrrect. I found a wiring diagram online for the WR valves. The think the way the Honeywell zones were wired was causing the WR zones to run haywire.

[@williampitlik6188]

can i wire the ecobee 3 lite to the 1311 ?

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello William I never done it but I know people that tried with no luck. Call the 800 number for eco bee . Some times the technical support team can tell you what to do on the thermostat so it works.

[@josephivie1314]

One ? I have is. Why does the the # 6 wire have to go to the (Y) terminal on the stat. I understand it has to be a 3 wire stat. I see the 6 terminal being a 24v common on diagram but you say # (6) has to be on (Y) on stat. Just wondering it's confusing.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello Joseph, 6 which should be green goes on Y on that thermostat (that brand, that model). Other thermostats are different . If you see my video "thermostat that works with the WR 1311. On that one 6 goes on A. so each thermostat is different. Read the instructions on each thermostat or call Custumer service,. I hope this answer you question.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

On the 1311 diagram one leg of transformer goes to 1 and the other leg to 2. 6 is the closing leg. On a call for heat 5 and 4 makes ( and at the same time 6 disengages) ON a satisfied thermostat 5 and 6 make and 4 disengages

[@rubenortiz3604]

Hi Alex my name is Ruben first I want to say thank you for your videos they are the best on KZbin ,I replaced all 3 water valves and my boiler was empty ,I added water but pressure gouge is still in cero pressure ,how can I have the pressure in my boiler. I really appreciate your help. Thank you.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hola Ruben, Muy probable que tu válvula de llenado este dañada. Sábele la palanca para que llene mas rápido. O quizás este tapada con sedimento del agua. Tienes un by pass? Una llave que salte la la válvula de llenado y lo llenes directo. Tienes llaves de manija para sacar aire? Pon una manguera del water heater a cualquier parte del boiler que tenga llave de agua. Puedes usar la llave del boiler de drenaje. Observa el manómetro par ver que pasa. Mándame unas fotos a [e-mail]

[@rubenortiz3604]

@@alexthehandyman3494 Muchas gracias Alex voy a hacer esto que me dijiste y te voy a mandar fotos. Gracias por tu tiempo y amabilidad, que sigas teniendo mucho éxito y que Dios te bendiga por ser una persona que ayuda a los demás. Gracias.

[@amynhussayny8639]

Hello Sir, have a question if you can help please In my unit there is only white and red wires for thermostat only! The the zone valve works only when I turn on the thermostat but not commanding to close! What will be the solution?

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello Amyn. If it is the same valve as the video you need three wires. and three wires thermostat. goto( 22.:50) Most thermostats are not compatible with this valve. Also look at one of my other video. Thermostat that works with 1311". The third (green) wire that you are missing is the one that closes the valve.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Don't forget to like and subscribe please.

[@amynhussayny8639]

Thank you so much for replying✌🏻 But the the switch box where the thermostat is there is only two wires coming red and white nathing else at all! And I have the same white Rogers 1311-102 before it was 1361-102 it wasn’t working anymore so I had to change it but now it only open when turning on the thermostat but doesn’t close!

[@alexthehandyman3494]

1311 and 1361 are not compatible. 1361 takes a 2 wire thermostat. you should have replaced it with a 1361n a nd not a 1311@@amynhussayny8639

[@user-nj9rx1bo5h]

5 is R. 4 is W. What is 6? G,B,O,Y,C? I have a single stage heat and AC TStat

[@alexthehandyman3494]

6 is G

[@jonholt2847]

My thermostat is not communicating with the zone valve and thermostat only has two wires

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hello Jon. You have a 1361 Not a 1311 . Try jumping the thermostat wires at the thermostat the red and white. If the boiler works the thermostat is faulty. check 24 volts at the transformer .

[@joegiovanatto1581]

@@alexthehandyman3494 Hi Alex, I have a old mercury 2 wire thermostat with 1311-102 White Rodgers so if i understand correctly in this case do you connect the white wire from thermostat to #6 on 1311-102 and not connect to #4 instead?

[@alexthehandyman3494]

@@joegiovanatto1581 Hello. Since you have a 1311 you need three wires going to the thermostat . If you have only two wires is not going to work period. Do me a favor and go to the store and get new wire. You need 3. The thermostat has to be compatible to the 1311 is not going to work. Go to Menards or Lowe’s and get the THERMOSTAT LUXTX96000TS AND FOLLOW THE instructions and how to wire it Look for my video THERMOSTAT THAT WORKS WITH 1311

[@alexthehandyman3494]

You can either replaced the 1311 for a 1361 and keep thermostat and the 2 wires or Get new wires (3) and replace the thermostat with a LUX

[@brandonsmith8091]

Explained well but that is not a neutral, it’s just one end of the secondary transformer winding. The neutral is on the 120v primary side and at ground potential.

[@alexthehandyman3494]

Hey Brandon, you are right!! good catch . Thanks for your comment.

[@jayedmonds5476]

these White Rodgers are garbage, literally have pulled one out the box and was defective. Best way to service these is replace whole thing with a Honeywell or Taco zone valve, the Rodgers is garbage kid

[@jeffhowland7619]

I have a WR that just keeps spinning, it never stops once called. Can this repaired or does it need to be replaced?