Repairing a motorcycle starter motor

[@gerardosilva3436]

I follow your video understansing the problem, and i waa able to make work again my Suauki vstrom 2012 adventure bike, which a OEM new starter was listed for $450 plus taxes and Shipping, so because i was trying to avoid buying such an expensive part and still had the risk of not beein g this the problem, i decided to try to fix the starter and for my surprise is up and running now. Thank you!

[@whitedoggarage]

Excellent! I am glad to be of service to you, thankyou for letting me know.

[@Nemean320]

I've been hammering my starter and push starting my bike for the past 2 days , this man saved me 90 dollars and days of waiting. Thank you!

[@whitedoggarage]

Thank you, glad to have been a help.

[@Cullz.182]

I hammered mine a little to much I think. one of the magnets fell off or it was the reason it would not work as I got it as a none runner. Anyway I've used araldite to secure the magnet back on luckily it was solid and not broken up. It now needs brushes and hopefully it should work again.

[@BikeMates]

Great video very helpful 👍 I think if I were soldering new brushes I would have left a little of the copper braid and soldered copper to copper. 😊

[@whitedoggarage]

Good idea and worth noting for other users, thanks.👍👍👍

[@ridhwanramzi4773]

After all these years in the hobby, this must be one of the best DIY vids I've seen. Lengthy but well done sir! Hope you're doing well.

[@whitedoggarage]

Thank you 👍

[@georgel3657]

Lengthy and well done is how Stevensapyak7971's wife describes me

[@stevensapyak7971]

@@georgel3657 6.28.24. 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@sisaketmike]

Mate, I'm impressed with how you do that job!! I've worked for Bosch Germany when I was young and must have overhauled thousands of starters and alternators. Please follow the guy's advice, he's totally right with all steps. And to the author, thank you very much from Sisaket/Thailand. I'd do it the same way!!!

[@whitedoggarage]

Thanks.

[@ShaunY1988]

Really good detailed video, thank you. I stripped my starter motor down on the weekend and put it all back together and it’s now spinning the wrong way so I’m gonna follow this video and strip it down and rebuild it again

[@whitedoggarage]

Sounds like you have the brushes connected wrongly, good luck with the rebuild.

[@ShaunY1988]

@@whitedoggarage thank you, after watching this video I fell like I probably have, if I get stuck to you offer a postal service to refurb and rebuild starter motors?

[@whitedoggarage]

@@ShaunY1988 I don't do a postal service, but possibly could. My big problem would be time, I could not fit the job in until November at this stage.

[@ShaunY1988]

@@whitedoggarage ok fair enough, stripped and rebuilt again tonight and it still seems like it’s spinning the wrong way, since stripping the starter motor my motorbike has developed all sorts of problems so I think I’ve messed it right up

[@whitedoggarage]

@@ShaunY1988 Are you sure you have it wrong, if the positive is feeding one brush and the other brush is earthed to the starter body it should be spinning correctly. Check your connections with a resitance meter. Also, depending on the gear train between the starter and the crank, it may be spinning correctly, ie. if one gear spins clockwise, the one it is against will spin anticlockwise and so on. Also, electronic ignitions require a good battery and maybe there is a problem with the starter taking all the available battery power. Hope that gives you something to go on.

[@robedmunds7163]

Ordered a rebuild kit from Wemoto and will be following this vid to refurbish the starter on my GS550. Just one point, use glass paper not emery on the commutator to clean it. The bits of emery can embed in the copper and make the brushes wear faster. You can finish it with a bit of Brasso for a super fine finish if you are a bit OCD like me 🙂

[@whitedoggarage]

Thanks for those comments and also for watching the video. That is a good point on the emery paper. Thanks again 👍👍👍

[@jimmyhygaard2252]

That was great,a fun way to rebuild a starter,if you can solder and are mechanical,this helps and a very fun video,thanks,and good luck to You.

[@whitedoggarage]

Thankyou 👍👍👍

[@ka0skontrol504]

This video helped me refurbish my starter motor on my old 1981 Kawasaki KZ305-A. Thanks for the video. I was lost without it.

[@whitedoggarage]

Thank you very much for your comment and I am glad the video was able to help you.

[@ka0skontrol504]

@@whitedoggarage Anytime. This bike has been an electrical headache since day one. Bought it used and some of the wiring (among other things) was a bit worse for wear. There's quite a few parts that aren't even made for the bike anymore. Luckily, I have a 3d printer if I need anything like plastic pieces or rubber bushings. Also surprisingly useful for making gaskets.

[@larpsim]

I had a 1980 KZ440. Wish I still had it today 😞

[@bikerdel8837]

Ive got this starter in my Suzuki gs550 so this vid helped .my problem was the starter wouldnt crank upon taking it apart 1magnet had broke apart and deglued.i glued it back 3/4 of it cleaned it & bobs ure uncle it works good on yer mate🥳🥳🥳🇬🇧

[@whitedoggarage]

Thankyou, glad you found the video useful.

[@Comm0ut]

Well done video! I've refreshed heaps of starters but explaining how to someone else is a pain so I'll just send them your link.

[@whitedoggarage]

Thankyou very much, greatly appreciated 👍👍👍

[@JK-re5jr]

Excellent, easy-to-follow starter rebuild information. Thank you for making this video.

[@whitedoggarage]

Thank you for your kind comments and glad the video is helpful.

[@raul1203ful]

Thank you so much for making this awesome video, very informative.

[@whitedoggarage]

Thankyou for watching and your kind comment. 👍👍👍

[@MrJohanlundmark]

What a great vid. Just got a Honda CB650 1982 with a broken starter that i managed to fix with your help! Greetings from Sweden!

[@whitedoggarage]

Thank you, glad to be of assistance 👍👍👍

[@hni7458]

This gentleman knows what he's talking about, great that he takes this into my level. I know now how to proceed with a CB500 starter; seems to look about the same.

[@whitedoggarage]

Your CB500 starter wont be that much different, so go for it. Thanks your kind comment 👍👍👍.

[@madgardener5820]

Thank you, I've now fixed my GSX starter only I broke the internal insulator so made a new one out of JB Weld, a piece of fabric and some super glue. I need to rustle up a battery now.

[@whitedoggarage]

Excellent, thanks for watching 🙂

[@adamszilagyi8293]

Very helpful video, gives a good explanation about how start motors works and also gives a lot of background details for the whys and hows. Good Job!

[@whitedoggarage]

Thank you.

[@2dsteve1]

thanks Nobber I've now fixed my starter , much love from your new Pommy subscriber x

[@whitedoggarage]

Thankyou and I am glad the video was helpful and thanks for subscribing.

[@clivedennison3799]

Thank you from South Africa. This was very useful for me in repairing the starter motor my on microlight flying machine.

[@whitedoggarage]

Glad to be of assistance, thank you.

[@vividlyradicaliron7416]

I got mine apart now, great video, mine needed new brushes as well. Thanks

[@whitedoggarage]

Good that the video was helpful, thanks for watching.

[@alittlecrinkley232]

Hi thanks for the vid, very helpful, waiting for aftermarket brushes to arrive and this is helping me prep the motor in the mean time. I don't have any non conductive lube for that slot on the brush side, it's quite pricey and will have no use for it once this job is done. The workshop manual for my bike doesn't mention the use of lube there and the manual is pretty thorough when it comes to those specifics, what do you suggest I do? Thanks again.

[@whitedoggarage]

Good question, I do not think you need to put any lube there, but if you want to, you could use ordinary high temperature wheel bearing grease. The conductive greases are ones like copper or zinc grease, the basic lube greases are generally non-conductive. Hope that helps.

[@alittlecrinkley232]

​@@whitedoggarageThanks, all the best

[@whitedoggarage]

@@alittlecrinkley232 👍👍👍

[@whyme9501]

Honestly just from your video sir just this one you've actually kind of persuaded me to listen to British people explain something now I find that funny because yes I am an American I'm sure you would have guessed and I'm a very proud American I'm not saying that I couldn't put that aside to learn something from the British I'm just saying I've always made fun of the way British people spoke their accent their choice of pronunciation of certain words I mean I have legitimately fallen on the floor rolling around laughing so hard but I guess at one point or another you always end up learning about the things that make you happy thank you for the video sir you've earned my subscription in like

[@whitedoggarage]

Thank you.

[@autonomousindividual7780]

Very helpful. Helping people help themselves. Who are the knobs that hit the dislike button. I would love to meet them.

[@whitedoggarage]

Thanks for your kind comments.

[@craigadam6964]

Great video, but was wondering if you had a bad bearing or bushing how would you replace them if you could make a video on that it would be great

[@whitedoggarage]

Good idea, I will see what I can do, thanks for watching and appreciating the video.

[@donglee7893]

Great video! I liked. Well done. A bucha de bronze não estava muito folgada?

[@whitedoggarage]

Acho que não, mas provavelmente algo que eu deveria ter abordado na parte de inspeção do vídeo.

[@leoanoya4186]

Thank you very much or this excellente video. Could please tell me where can i buy these brushes. Thanks again.

[@whitedoggarage]

I just buy them on Ebay, search on brushes for your bike, or buy a generic one, but you need to know your dimensions, the length, thickness and width of the brush. You need one about 12mm long and with the same width and thickness dimensions as the one you have in your starter motor. Alternatively you could contact a supplier like CMSNL, they have the positive brush for that starter motor listed www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-gsx1100-1981-x-general-export-e01_model13758/brush_3113044110/ . Hopefully that gives you a start as to where to look. I have bought a couple of sets and I think they were just generic ones. The brushes are common to a number of motorcycle starters. Good luck.

[@YerraChube]

Thanks whitedog! Just what I needed to go with the sparse workshop manual. Didnt understand why commutator sections had no resistance between them... But you confirmed it. Nice clear vid, no music no gimmicks. Cheers!

[@whitedoggarage]

Thanks

[@2ride_along]

I was thinking about to install a hand pull starter on a motorcycle big like a 1200cc. would that work?

[@whitedoggarage]

It would be interesting to see it done. Would it work, I dont know. Some of the old British pedestrian farm machines had crank start on two cylinder motors of about 1000cc, so it is possible. Of course, the more cylinders, the less force required. Gearing it down would be the issue I suspect. Mower pull starts are direct drive on the crank, whilst kick starts are geared down. So I am thinking, you would need to have a geared pull start. Interesting ...

[@eddieb3915]

Question: My '83 GS1100 starter motor bearings are open, not sealed. Cleaning everything up and wondering if I should add grease to those bearings? Seems like I should, was just concerned with adding grease and possibly having it migrate all over the inside of the starter, going where it shouldn't. Any input on greasing those bearings or not? And great video, its been a big help as I work my way through getting this old project bike going again, thanks.

[@whitedoggarage]

Thanks for watching the video, and I have several others relating to that bike series, so if you need more have a look at my 'Mechanics' playlist. You need to grease those bearings, just don't over do the grease. Use a high temperature bearing grease (disc brake suitable) as the starter gets hot from the motor. Just work it into the bearings and wipe any excess off before reassembling the starter. Good luck with your project.

[@eddieb3915]

@@whitedoggarage Thank you! I did as you suggested, added a bit or grease, reassembled the starter motor, bench tested it - it works! Installed it, its still working! Lol. Thanks again.

[@whitedoggarage]

@@eddieb3915 Great 👍👍👍

[@waterfordMARTIN]

My starter relay on xj6n just buzzing but bike wont crank or crank veeery slowly..new battery installed-no joy. But when i measured voltage on starter i found 8Volts on the starter housing when attempt to start the bike. I believe all ouside housing should be just earth and not positive voltage from relay. Could this be some damage inside of the starter?

[@whitedoggarage]

Yes, you are right the starter housing should all be just earth. It could be short circuit in the system, please check the resistance level between the positive terminal on the starter and the starter case, it should be infinite. After that, I would start by checking the insultors on the positive terminal as that is the most likely place a leakage to earth is occuring.

[@waterfordMARTIN]

@@whitedoggarage will do..many thanks. But as i tried to undo two bolts that holds the starter on the engine I snap them 🤦🤦🤦

[@whitedoggarage]

@@waterfordMARTIN Oh nooo! 😪😪😪

[@SoggyLongbottom]

Was that lithium grease you used on the inside of the starter ? . Currently using your video to help me learn how to fix my broken one on my xj900 diversion

[@whitedoggarage]

Thanks for watching the video. The grease is a high temperature lithium grease. Wheel bearing grease is a good choice, starter motors get hot with the motor and you want a grease that does not melt at engine temperature. Hope that helps.

[@patriciahilleren3379]

Thank you for such a detailed explanation. I still have a problem and I'm hoping you might have some insight to offer. I"m working on a scooter starter (mitsuba sm-14) that has failed. After removing the starter- I tried bench starting it using 12V battery- no spin at all. When I disassembled the starter I noticed one of the two brushes was hung up in it's holder- it would spring back out if I gave it a little budge- but got stuck in the metal bracket 90% of the time that I pushed it in. I thought that might be the reason why the starting wasn't working on the bike- it was getting power but yielded no cranking- in fact, no sound at all when tested on the bike. I did all the multimeter testing you suggested -testing every segment and everything checked out. Also checked resistance between positive brush and bolt assembly (good) and the negative brush and starter body (good). Cleaned up the armature commutator with emery cloth. Installed new brush plate (correct part) and reassembled. When I hook it up to bench test- I get a big spark at the positive pole/bolt- but no spin. When reassembling I noticed that two of the three washer shims on the commutator pole end are steel but the third was not (not attracted to magnet). I'm not sure if there is a specific order for these and if that might be causing the problem. Given the good results using the multimeter, I think the armature/commutator is OK. Are there other reasons that I'm missing that would explain the starter motors failure to engage?. Any insight you are able/willing to offer is much appreciated. Thanks, Pat

[@whitedoggarage]

Pat, sorry i have taken so long to reply, but I have been away. My best guess is that you have a short to ground between the positive terminal on the outside of the starter and the positive brush. The bolt that forms the positive terminal has insulators on each side of the case and then a wire to the brush plate. There should be insulation on that wire but a break in the insulation or an edge touching the starter body is not out of the question. That is where I would look first. From what you have told me I have a few more comments. You are correct in that the bushes need to move freely, but if they are in contact with the commutator on reassembly then the starter should turn (at least for a while). Those shims (washers) are thrust washers and their main purpose is to give clearance in the bearing or bushing the armature runs on. I would be surprised if they are not all made of metal, but if you think the non-magnetic one is an insulator then I would place against the commutator side. Can you easily rotate the starter shaft by hand when reassembled? I doubt it is binding, but if it is that could also be a problem. Binding issues include incorrect assembly, worn bearings and/or thrust washers. Are the magnets equally spaced and immovable in the outer case (field frame)? They are usually glued on in these small starters and may have become detached causing them to move around or worse contact the armature, causing binding and shorting out. Hopefully I have given you the help you need to sort out your problem. Good luck, Bob

[@patriciahilleren3379]

@@whitedoggarage Thanks for the thorough response- so helpful. In this starter (which is original to the bike) there is no insulation surrounding the copper wires extending from the brush- and I've wondered if that is the problem- seems like a design defect! Is that what would cause the significant arcing I see when I bench test. I've not seen that much arcing when bench testing a 'working' starter. I've heard elsewhere that the non-fiber third shim should be in between the two metal shims. The magnets are still firmly in place. When I assemble, the starter easily turns by hand- no obvious friction points. I believe the assembly is correct. I have ordered a replacement starter and will verify the shim orientation. Again- thank you for your contributions!

[@whitedoggarage]

@@patriciahilleren3379 Pat, if there is no insulation on the positive wire from the brush plate, then you need to be especially careful in reassembly that the wire has no chance of contacting the body of the starter. The degree of arcing is a difficult thing to use as an indicator of current flow, but if the un-insulated wire is touching the body of the starter then you will get a massive current draw and a big spark is possible. In all the starters I have worked on I have not seen shims or thrust washers of different materials, so I am guessing about where the non-magnetic one goes, so in the middle of the other two works just as well to my mind. I can't envisage it being an insulator as the bearings at either end of the armature both conduct electricity. In saying that, are two of the washers, wave washers? If they are then the flat one will definitely go in between them.

[@JCG0001]

Great video, I wouldn't have thought the brushes would be depleted with so much brush seemingly left, but then they are losing contract pressure as they wear down. I usually clean the commutator with rubbing alcohol to remove in oil or grease.

[@whitedoggarage]

Yes, the spring setup used by Nippon Denso limits the travel, but it probably deals with engine heat better. Thanks for your comments.

[@collyernicholasjohn]

This is a great video, thanks

[@whitedoggarage]

Glad to be of help, tanks for watching it.

[@christosx13]

Thank you sir this is the most detailed video from all i've watched for my occasion. I dissasempled my DL650 starter motor yesterday to replace carbon brushes (i am still waiting the delivery of the part) and if it isnt exactly the same is at least 99% similar motor (Mitsuba). My only worries now is if i will be able to put the interior rings in the correct position as there are 2 +1 big rings that go in the one side and 2 smaller to the other side but i was not able to see and take a photo as i wanted because i opened the caps not very smoothly and they fell down hahaha. If you still remember i need your help about the 3 bigger rings (2 metal +1 other material) that go in the top side of motor. Do they go all together and the different one go between the 2 metal ones?

[@whitedoggarage]

Christos, honestly I don't know. I found this diagram on the cms site: images.cmsnl.com/img/partslists/suzuki-dl650-vstrom-2004-k4-usa-e03-starting-motor_big3IMG00920420_1562.gif and part number 8, shows a range of shims. One appears to be an insulator. Most starters have their armatures shimmed with metal washers to prevent lateral movement. There is no need for an insulator as the shaft is earthed and the windings are insulated, except for where they contact the bushes. I don't think the different one goes between the two metal ones, my thought is to place it against the winding, with the two metal ones above it. I hope that helps.

[@christosx13]

@@whitedoggarage ok thanks for the diagram it will help me even though i cant see the insulator ring in this. From what i think that i slightly remember now, this ring was stuck from oil on the bottom of the cap between the metal part with 4 legs and the last cap and i removed it myself in order to clean up all the parts of the motor. Thanks again.

[@whitedoggarage]

@@christosx13 That position for that washer sort of makes sense to me as well, so put it there. As long as the starter turns freely after you put it back together, I can not see a problem.

[@chadwinget4846]

Thank you for your video . And has truly educated me and helped me. But I'm having an issue with my starter it looks to me as it is running backwards which is counterclockwise....... Should the starter rotation be clockwise?

[@whitedoggarage]

I had to look at this video again to be sure of the direction, but the starter should be turning counterclockwise.

[@cb250y8]

Excellent video. Having similar issues. Thanks.

[@whitedoggarage]

Thanks for watching and I hope the video has been useful.

[@sisaketmike]

maybe one sentence I'd like to add. Make sure that you adjust both screws ( that hold the starter together) with the same force that the rotor can turn freely!!

[@whitedoggarage]

Good advice, thank you for mentioning that.

[@robedmunds7163]

just an update, to get the starter bolts undone on a 1981 Gs550, you have to take the carbs off, there is no other way. Managed to avoid taking the cam chain tensioner off at least 🙂

[@whitedoggarage]

Thanks for that information, some bikes arew a real pain to work on. Thanks for watching the video 👍👍👍

[@bestione761]

Once you assambly the starter motor, does the pinion have to move free? I see you can turn it by hand. I have taken apart the starter motor from my XJ 750 Yamaha and once I have put all back together, I can not turn the pinion by hand. I checked with a battery before reinstalling like you have done and it turns and moves fine. I don't know if it has to turn or not by hand. I did not check that before taken it apart. Could you tell me if there is sonething wrong and why does it turn conected to a battery but not by hand? Many thanks

[@whitedoggarage]

Excellent question, the started constains a series of permanent magnets and this can make the armature quite hard to turn. You should be able to turn it by hand, but it should resist your turning. However it should not be impossible to turn. If it turns quite quickly with the battery test, it is probably okay. Hope that helps.

[@bestione761]

@@whitedoggarage The problem was that I took everything apart and checked piece by piece , after cleaning and checking brushes and the rest of pieces I started to reinstall all the parts again following the manual step by step and then is when I realised that one washer was missing.... so I decided to to put the missing washer. This washer was the problem, once I took it of the pinion started to turn by hand easily. I guess one of the previus owners took that washer out because of the same problem. Now that I took the washer out the pinion turns fine by hand and turns also fine conected to a battery. Thanks for your answer. Greetings from Spain dude!

[@whitedoggarage]

@@bestione761 The pictures of those washers in the manual catch a lot of people out. They are actually thrust washers and how many go there depends on the armature when it is made. They are there to take up subtle differences in manufacture I think. There can be one or two, whatever number they came from the factory with is the number the starter should have, so you did the right thing with one washer. Good pickup on your part and something for other viewers to note. Greetings from Australia too, Bob.

[@nancygiordanocassin]

Great video! I have a siminlar starter which is turning in the wrong direction. I put new brushes on it. Now it turns in the wrong direction. Any thoughts? Thanks, Rob

[@whitedoggarage]

It sounds like you have reversed the connections. The starter is basically a direct current or dc motor and current direction (positive to negative or negative to positive) determines turning direction. Check that the brushes are connected to the right inputs. Good luck.

[@tonystone3397]

Great stuff thanks for sharing

[@whitedoggarage]

Thanks for watching 👍👍👍

[@Gl-my8fw]

Never done a starter before. The plate with the brushes just came off with the cap and there appears to be a loose wire lead underneath.

[@whitedoggarage]

That does not sound good 😮.

[@alangrant5278]

Crickey mate that’s a great video. Well done.

[@whitedoggarage]

Thank you.

[@lathspellinfield]

its very helpful and explaining thanks. maybe it can also be explained to taking off the starting motor from the engine and how to put it back. one criticism; a 4K shot would be so much better and I watched the video on 1,75x speed :) but its ok, it meant to be informative and there is more info than post-production here. so cheers!

[@whitedoggarage]

Thankyou for your comments they are quite useful. I will think about doing the removal process in a future video. If I had time I could just do a removal and reinstall on one of my own bikes, the juggling act required with the engine in the bike and the carbs in place is probably worth a few tips and tricks. I shoot using a mixture of HD 720p and 1080p, and one 4K camera, so 4K might have been better. I did that one purely with my GoPro which is 1080p and 60fps so I can understand the issues speeded up. However I had it in my mind that KZbin when processing the videos made them 1080p at best, so that filming in 4K gave the creator no advantage there, although there are advantages filming in 4K when it comes to the editing process. I could be wrong on that too, video production is a skill I am still trying to master :).

[@lathspellinfield]

@@whitedoggarage 4k adds an instant quality feel to the videos. I realised that while watching my own works on my tiny channel. There were other ppl doing same song covers as me but somehow my work seem like home video near theirs regardless content proves otherwise. So I ll shoot mine in 4k after now. Im happy if im being helpful, keep on good work! 😊

[@whitedoggarage]

@@lathspellinfield Thankyou.

[@MafiZed]

Great video, out of curiosity if you connected the power side first instead of the earth, then tested it by connecting the earth, would it still spark?

[@whitedoggarage]

Good question, I believe it would still spark. When I think about with the starter motor the spark comes with the big current draw when the circuit is completed, so even if the positive was connected first, touching the earth would still produce the spark.

[@nate9423]

No, it wouldn't spark. This is what is always taught in automotive. The last thing to ever be connected is the ground to prevent sparking and arcing to prevent damage to electrical components. This would have also prevented his need for a "protective sleeve". Other than that, this man did good.

[@blueicemanbird]

Brilliant guide, which I have followed, unfortunately when checking between each segment after setting multi meter to 200k I keep getting a reading on every one.... so I'm assuming that I somewhere have a short? is there anything that I can do to repair ? many thanks

[@whitedoggarage]

Thanks for your question. If I read your comment right you have a reading between each segment, which is what you expect, so you don't have a problem. However if it is between the segment and ground, then you have a problem. Between adjoining segments you should have zero or close to zero resistance. Between the segment and the armature shaft (ground) you should have infinite resistance. If you have a reading between the segment and the armature shaft, then you have an insulation failure in the armature. It is possible to rewind an alternator, in fact that was a common practice in most electrical shops back in the day. However these days if it is a common type of alternator (which this one is), it is cheaper to replace. Hope that helps.

[@walterneilson8119]

My armature was soaked in engine oil from a failed oil seal…can it be cleaned off and still used?

[@whitedoggarage]

Good question, I would think cleaning it off and letting it dry would work, and you should have no problems with using it again. Just be careful with the solvent you use to clean the oil off. Kerosene or parafin should be fine, but a more agressive solvent like petrol might daage the epoxy coatings.

[@walterneilson8119]

@@whitedoggarage I’ll try it and let you know if I can get it to turn over on the bench… right now the brushes are shorted to the casing…

[@whitedoggarage]

@@walterneilson8119 Shorting to the casing is not good.

[@Flashdogger]

I rebuilt a starter from my 79 gs1000E . This included a new brush assembly ,and now that I am finished it acts the same way it did before I rebuilt it. It just arcs but doesn't spin. Can you think of anything that would cause this failure. When I first took it apart the two brushes connected to the positive bolt where torn or burnt off. On my starter there are 4 brushes but otherwise it's the same

[@whitedoggarage]

Jon, first thing does the armature spin freely in the bearings (probably not the problem here but hey it happens); secondly did you check the segments and rotor core of the armature for ground and open circuits (brushes not connected of course) as I show in the video; thirdly check the continuity in the brush connections (maybe start here first), that is are the brushes earthing out where they shouldn't. Hope that helps and good luck.

[@Flashdogger]

@@whitedoggarage so the brushes are new and no I haven't done any test to see things are grounded correctly though it seems like it should be fine . I thought maybe the positive volts where some how making contact where it shouldn't but I think everything is where it should be including I rings and spacers. But as for moving freely I definitely was wondering about that. It seems to me that in the past every starter ive spun the gear or (bendix?) Has spun free with no noticeable spots and with this one I can tell each brush pass as if it finds a home as it turns. I suspect it worn out of round in 4 spots . the problem I have with just saying it out of round and there for now junk is the fact that when I bought it and got it running , it started just fine and kept starting on a 2 hour road trip with many stops. Then a few days later I went in the garage to start it and the solenoid just clicked. Which brought me to the point of removing the starter and bench testing it and eventually finding the separated positive brushes inside. I hope this helps. In the mean time I will re watch your video and try the tests you spoke of. Also on another video someone said something about turn it on a large if out of round. I haven't checked to see if it'll fit on my harbor freight mini lathe but if so thats an option. Thanks

[@whitedoggarage]

@@Flashdogger Jon, this is my thinking, the starter worked fine when you got the bike, then it didn't and you found defective brushes (in my experience it is almost always brushes on Japanese starters). So now it doesn't work when you put it back together with new brushes (I am assuming here you are doing a bench test like I show in the video, not putting it back in the bike). The logic suggests that this is due to the disturbance of pulling it apart, the putting back together or the brushes are shorting out. So the first test is does it turn freely by hand? Your saying you can feel notches, usually a worn commutator (the bit of the armature in contact with the brushes) is just reduced in diameter rather than having flats. I am assuming the magnets in the case haven't moved, they are glued to the inside of the outer case and should be evenly spaced around the inside of the cylinder, just see if they move, if the glue has let go the magnet can relocate on the inside of the cylinder and also grab the armature making it hard to turn or notchy which might be what you are feeling with the four spots. The thing with the brushes is that you have a negative and a positive set, the negative set will earth to the case and the positive set should not - so using a multi meter just wedge some strips of plastic or cardboard between the positive brushes and the commutator (armature) and check that there is infinite resistance between the brushes and the mounting plate. One other thing, is the plate in the correct position, out of alignment it can cause part of those positive brushes to contact the case causing a short.

[@passatv6077]

Do you want to come and fix my one?😅 been trying to get 1982 kz750 running yesterday that not been used for 10 years,after preparing it by oiling the bores up, turning engine over by hand first then to turn it over without spark plugs in which done it no problem, tried it again with spark plugs in and was struggling to continuously crank over,.i think i tried it to many times and have burned something out in starter,any ideas?got it out today,looked for replacement and they are quite expensive so i figured out maybe try fixing it

[@whitedoggarage]

Usually with starters it will be the brushes, but if you think you have burnt it up, I would check it as I show in the video, particulalry the resistance in the armature.

[@passatv6077]

​@@whitedoggaragestripped the starter today and i don't know how i even managed to turn the engine over with it, brushes are non existent, completely worned down to wires, commutators worn out as well :/ need to find replacement starter

[@whitedoggarage]

@@passatv6077 Too bad, amazing how long those starters can keep working.

[@philiponsolent7232]

Really clear and helpful, thank you

[@whitedoggarage]

Thankyou.

[@bernardsantos8640]

Thank you sir For the idea how to repair startet

[@whitedoggarage]

Thanks for watching the video.

[@TheBeemerfan]

very well explained. It did help me a lot to fix me starter Just... make me nervous seen you inhaling those fumes, they are poison. possible getting a fan to extract them?

[@garryphillips4841]

and if it all goes tits up you can always drink the Vodka!!!

[@wymple09]

I'm about to do this. Your video is perfect. Thank you.

[@whitedoggarage]

Thank you, and I hope your rebuild goes well.

[@Ninjaa_Paul]

Thanks for such a good & informational video - hopefully I can get my issue sorted now :)

[@whitedoggarage]

Thanks for watching and if you still have problems post a question down below and hopefully I can help.

[@reddogchi]

When re-assembling, did you forget to show the replacement of the thrust washers that you'd removed or did I miss it?

[@whitedoggarage]

Good question! I just rewatched it and yes I did not show the replacement of the thrust washers. Around about 15:30 they are on the tray and by 15:35 they have been fitted, so I will have edited that bit out. That video was one of my first where I spoke to camera whilst I did the job and I had a number of reshoots to correct my mumbles etc and it looks like I cut that bit, sorry about that and a good spot on your behalf. The thrust washers go at the commutator end of the armature.

[@reddogchi]

@@whitedoggarage Aha!! I thought it must be me going senile ;o)

[@whitedoggarage]

@@reddogchi 😃

[@deejaydomino5000]

Excactly what I was looking for. Thanks :)

[@mangasingh8050]

Don't forget to put the Cooper washs

[@MrBoomtheroom]

what were the symptoms?

[@whitedoggarage]

Good question, I did that one a long time ago, but I think I isolated it to a starter motor problem, and then took it back to the workshop to do a bench job on it. In my experience, it is usually the brushes as it is here, but I decided to make the video and show the whole starter motor checking process. If you want more on diagnosing a starting problem, I have another video you should watch: kzbin.info/www/bejne/np2mnZtuo5aYY5Y , hope that helps.

[@Jackofalltrades97]

Hi. I have the exact starter and the gear teeth has shattered, can it be fixed or do I need to replace the whole thing?

[@whitedoggarage]

Good question, do you mean the teeth on the armature or the gear that it engages? The short answer is that the armature splines could be built up and re-machined and a new engagement gear made. However the cost might mean it is cheaper to buy either a new starter motor or a new gear. The starter motors are reasonably common, so sourcing a new one or a good used one is quite possible. The gear it engages is a Suzuki part and may be harder to find. Hope that helps, Bob.

[@Jackofalltrades97]

@@whitedoggarage hello and tnx for ur time and reply. I mean the gear on the armature shaft. A new armature is expensive where I live... So I'm wondering if there is any permanent way to fix it and not have it break again in the future.

[@whitedoggarage]

@@Jackofalltrades97 from a machinist's point of view, it is a relatively simple job provided you have access to the right welder, lathe and mill equipment. Thinking about it, you would remove the bearing off the front, build up the damaged area of the spline with weld, then in a lathe machine the welded area back to the diameter of the spline, then use the mill to machine the splines. The biggest problem with this method will be keeping the armature cool during the welding. You could try a metal epoxy for example PERMATEX® COLD WELD 2 PART EPOXY, 2 OZ; link: www.permatex.com/products/adhesives-and-sealants/epoxies/permatex-cold-weld-2-part-epoxy-2-oz/ but I can't recomend it as I have no experience with this type of application. You would need to clean the old spline well, build up the area with epoxy and then recut the splines. A mill with an indexer would be the best way, but using a bit of a hacksaw blade and small files to recut the splines would work also. Good luck.

[@crunkz5542]

Thank u madala !! :D ima try this !! your channel is very underrated. Subscribed & thumbs up~!

[@whitedoggarage]

Thank you for your very kind comments and your subscription.

[@thefishingreel1449]

That looks just like my BMW K 1200RS Starter. It spins but no crank. Anybody know why?

[@whitedoggarage]

Sounds like it is not engaging the starter ring. Not familiar with the bike, but there is usually some form of throw out clutch the starter engages, and the problem is most likely with that setup. Hope that helps.

[@kubifan]

Hello, when swapping engines on my motorcycle I had to take out my startermotor as well ( Aprilia Pegaso 650 Factory/ Mitsuba starter motor), unfortunately i screwed it loose from the wrong side and the backplate came loose, immediately i took the whole unit out and left it, at first i couldn't get the 4 metal ends to fit properly but after a while everything fitted back together. Swapped the engines and moment of truth to start the bike. What happens? I hear ticking from the starter motor but it won't go around. Do you have any idea what it could be as i have literally no experience with electric things? THe starter motor is a Mitsuba SM-13.

[@whitedoggarage]

Thank you for your question. I don't know that bike and I am trying to visualise what you might have done. Let us start with the basics however, is the battery fully charged? If the battery is fully charged, do you still get the clicking noise? Can your try a known good battery or jumper lead to a working car battery and check whether that fixes the starting issue? I am pointing you towards the battery, because the clicking noise can be a symptom of a partially flat or dying battery. Now, when you have ruled out the battery as the problem, lets consider the backing plate, is there two ways it can go back? If so can you swap it to the other way and try and see if it works? If that fails, I'm not sure where to point you without further information. Usually the problems with backing plates are related to insulation and usually. the starter just wont work when there is an issue with the backing plate. Good luck.

[@whisperproductions9880]

I accidentally took my stater apart. I put it back together and it spins the Opposite way and my bike won't start. 2017 kawasaki zx6r (636)

[@whitedoggarage]

That is interesting and I would have thought impossible to do easily. You must have the power to the brushes going negative to positive, rather than positive to negative, but I cant see how you can do that easily, as there is only one positive lead to the input on the starter and the starter body forms the earth. Because the positive brush is normally attached to the input lead, it is not expected you could have connected the starter incorrectly. I am only vaguely famialiar with the starter on the ZX6R, but I thought it was simiar design to the one shown in the video. Did you disconnect the battery terminals and then put the leads back to the wrong ones? The right way would be the red leads connected to the positive terminal. Check your battery connections are correct is my best suggestion at this stage. Good luck.

[@michaelhodgkinson3301]

What do you use to clean the contacts?

[@whitedoggarage]

Thanks for the question and for watching the video. To clean the contacts I use either CRC CO Contact Cleaner or ethyl alcohol (sold as methylated spirits here in Australia and if they are really bad I will give them a rub over with a scotchbrite pad. Hope that helps, Bob 👍👍👍

[@MrDalegray]

Great video,thank you. By the way, you have the biggest vice i have ever seen lol.

[@whitedoggarage]

Thanks for watching and enjoying the video, yes I love that vice. 👍👍👍

[@ZackofAllTradesct]

Wow. Super helpful. Thanks Sir.

[@whitedoggarage]

Thanks.

[@gtonline7]

Thanks WhiteDog, great informative vid. I think this is probably whats wrong with my old m109r, its really slow to crank over, cranks so slow when cold or hot that its just not enough to start it (with a new battery). Its 2007 with 120k kms on it. I reckon the starter motor has never been touched.. (your thoughts?) and have a great day mate from QLD AU.

[@whitedoggarage]

Good test that I like to do is to connect a car battery to the bike battery with jumper leads - starter should turn a little bit quicker (just more oomph) and this is usually the sign of a tired starter motor or poor connections. At 13 years old now I wouldn't discount poor connections, so it is probably worth starting with a clean up of all the connections - battery positive terminal and lugs, battery negative leads and frame motor earth contacts, starter relay lugs and poles and the pole and lug on top of the starter motor. Good luck with it. Oh, loving the weather here in Queensland at the moment too.

[@gtonline7]

@@whitedoggarage Thanks so much mate.

[@smadjaone]

very good , thank for sharing your job mister....

[@ybliga]

Hi Bob . . . I would be so grateful if you could answer a query. I have a BMW with Denso starter which won't crank properly when hot. Many modern Triumphs suffer the same and mine and the Triumphs use this make and design of starter. The bike cranks like it has a semi flat battery and won't turn properly - my BMW won't go past first piston on compression stroke. The issue is reduced cranking power when hot and is clearly due to heat soak. The suggestion has been made that this is due to a poor earth in the starter motor itself because the brush plate is merely sandwiched between the two halves of the starter body and relies on this fit in order to make a decent earth. With time, the base plate will gain a patina and surface corrosion etc which will compromise the earth and likewise, when hot, the starter body will expand and thus reduce this contact still further. In your experience does this explanation seem feasible.? I was trying to see from your stripdown, if the baseplate is clamped between the two halves but I don't think it is . . more of an interference fit - ie beyond the rebate in the end cap. How do you think would be the best way to improve this earth contact beyond simply polishing the base plate and the body around the circumference at the point of contact. Thanks for any advice you can offer . . . great video and very helpful

[@whitedoggarage]

What you say makes sense, the brush plate in the GSX starter is essentially wedged in place. It certainly would help to clean/reduce to bare metal all the contact points. It is always worth looking at the high current circuit (both positive and negative sides), particularly at the connectors (lugs) for corrosion and thus reduced current flow there, however that should be an issue cold so it almost sounds like a design fault. The expansion of surfaces due to heat is reducing contact area I imagine, although it sounds like it shouldn't be a problem. Hope this helps.

[@ybliga]

whitedoggarage - yes thanks a lot. This problem has been plaguing Triumph owners for. Ages now but the manufacturer is doing nothing about it and the dealers simply respond to owners that they’ve never seen the problem before. If you search on KZbin for Triumph tiger won’t start when hot and look at the video of Paul Van Eede’s Orange Tiger, he pretty much defines the issue as being the starter itself and I’m convinced it’s a poor earth due to the brush plate design being compromised when hot. Now have a new starter for my Beemer so will swap it out this winter and then strip, clean and modify the old one before swapping it back to see if the problem’s. Not quite sure how I’m going to mod the brush plate design but I suspect I can come up with something!! Thanks again

[@whitedoggarage]

@@ybliga Thanks for the update and good luck with your fix.

[@drisssaoud3088]

@@ybligahey ,i i have the same problem can you please tell me if you resolved your problem with this manipulation

[@ybliga]

@@drisssaoud3088 - you don’t say if you ride a BMW OR Triumph. . . . When I stripped the BMW starter it is a different design with 4 brushes and the earth contact is securely bolted down. I load tested the battery and although it passed according to my carbon pile load tester, it was well down compared to the results I got from a new battery. I swapped out the battery but don’t yet know if the problem is sorted because I have yet to stall it when hot or attempt a hot start. The poor earth contact in the Triumph starter must be a factor but isn’t the whole story. Certainly give the starter a strip and clean - it h it s easy enough to do - make a careful note on disassembly exactly how the retention plate us fitted for the live feed terminal post - you can put it on reversed - 180 degrees out. Don’t do the two main bolts up beyond 4nm tops. If it’s a Triumph, make sure your battery is A1 and clean the starter button switch and kill switch - both are prone to dirty contacts and can cause the bike to drop out when cranking.

[@romuloNIHON]

Thanks for sharing.

[@whitedoggarage]

Thank you for watching 🙂

[@poptartheroes]

After rebuilding my starter, it now spins backwards. The battery is correctly wired to the starter and there's only one terminal which is correctly wired to positive. Could it just be that I misaligned the brushes?

[@whitedoggarage]

Yes, it sounds like you have the brush connections reversed.

[@sharonzarzycki8011]

Thanks it also work for my Ducati 900SS 1999 denso starter

[@whitedoggarage]

Excellent, thank you for letting us know.

[@bryantb3391]

When would u need to take the armature apart or is it just brushes and grime build up

[@whitedoggarage]

If the armature fails the testing, then it is time for a new starter motor. This starter is quite common and easy enough to get a replacement. But they can be rebuilt, new contacts can be made or sourced and the unit rewired. But these days that is usually only done if you can't get a replacement, or the labour is really cheap.

[@shieneil5499]

tnx for the vid sir . but oi wonder if i used wires that are not the same as yours or smaller a little , will it still works .. ? thanks . newbie here :)

[@whitedoggarage]

I am not sure which wires you are talking about, so I will talk about both. The wires to the brushes come with the new brushes, but if you replaced those wires I would not go smaller as those wires have to carry a heavy current. If you are talking about the wires I am using to test the starter motor at the end, you can certainly use smaller wires there. Those are battery cables that I use for other work, but smaller wire will still work as there is no real load on the starter when it is not trying to turn the motor. Hope that helps.

[@echomadness1168]

I know this video is 5 years old but does anyone know how I can prevent gas getting into my starter? Is a carburetor problem?

[@whitedoggarage]

Assuming your starter motor sits below the carburettors, the most likely cause is one or more of the float valves in your carbies are sticking open. This is often caused by particles of rust or similar in the fuel or the bike has been sitting too long (like months and months). Taking the carbs off and cleaning the float valves might fix it, otherwise replacement. Hope that helps.

[@echomadness1168]

@whitedoggarage omg that make so much sense thank you I'm just starting now starting to get into bikes so thank you so much and that's the same thing with it going into my oil?

[@whitedoggarage]

@@echomadness1168 Glad to be of help. Yes, if thefloat valves are leaking you can have fuel flowing down the intake and through an open valve into the cylinder where it leaks down into the oil.

[@pchoice0]

승용차와 다르게 모터 축이 전후진 하지 않는게 충격적입니다. ㅠㅠ 오토바이 사용자들은 카본브러쉬를 계속 소비하면서 사용해야한다는게 ㅠㅠ

[@whitedoggarage]

예

[@donglee7893]

O que é melhor? Bucha de bronze comum com graxa ou bucha grafitada?

[@whitedoggarage]

Tradução de inglês para português pelo google 😉. Uma bucha de grafite geralmente é melhor em muitas situações. Mas aqui uma bucha de grafite ofereceria poucas vantagens, já que o motor de partida é usado muito pouco durante a vida útil dos motores.

[@chrishard7616]

Hi and thanks for such a great video. I'm going to take off my Ducati M821 starter and check it out since it is becoming slow to crank sometimes but other times it is OK. More troublesome when hot though. Apparently the Taigene brand fitted to my bike are not reliable in this respect. Just a quick question..... I was wondering if you have encountered any issues with the brush soldering repair method ever breaking down given the vibration and heat that the starter is subjected to? Do you consider the soldering to be as good as the original welding for the brush wires? Thanks from UK.

[@whitedoggarage]

Excellent question Chris. Nobody has come back with a breakdown of the soldering repair that I have done and the one I did on my own bike is still going. Resin core solder melts at over 200 degrees Celsius and air cooled motors top out at about 120 degrees, so temperature is not an issue. However vibration could be a factor. I wish they fitted a hook in the plate to give something more for the wire to hang on to. That said, I imagine the original spot weld is more about cost of production than anything else. Showing my age here, but some of the units from the 1950s to 1970s that I have worked on had many soldered components and vibration didn't seem to trouble them.

[@whitedoggarage]

Chris, when I answered your question I had no issues with soldering the brushes, but since then I have my first one come back to haunt me. Not a straight forward failure however, my soldering may have been the root cause. If you are interested, a video on that failure will air on my channel tomorrow for me here in Oz, or at 7:00 am on the 11th of March (London time). The link is kzbin.info/www/bejne/np2mnZtuo5aYY5Y which will become public access at that time. Enjoy.

[@noearias2006]

Nice video ,thank you for your time

[@whitedoggarage]

Thank you :-)

[@LOWERDUCK21]

Was it just normal sandpaper that you used to clean up the burn marks?

[@whitedoggarage]

No the product is called emery paper here in Australia, which is just grit surface on a cloth backing which makes it easier to wrap around cylindrical surfaces. However you can do the job with ordinary wet and dry sand paper, it just wont last as long. The grit of the emery paper used in the video was 120, but it was a bit worn so maybe it was as high as 240. Anything in that range will do fine, depends on the amount of fouling you want to remove. It was not shown in the video, but once I got the burnt area clean I would have then done a sequence of grits up to 800, just lightly and is really just making a smoother surface for the new brushes.

[@LOWERDUCK21]

whitedoggarage awesome. Thank you very much! Your video will definitely help a lot when i go to open mine up.

[@whitedoggarage]

@@LOWERDUCK21 good luck with your rebuild.

[@lennycruz4558]

Very helpful thank you for the video

[@whitedoggarage]

Glad to be of service, thanks.

[@solomonunderwood6548]

Wow i just wanted to see what was wrong with my starter out of curiosity, people in the comments are smart enough to repair this complicated thing? Sheesh I'll stick to buying a replacement motor off ebay im still proud that I'm not taking my bike to a shop for knowing its starter motor.

[@whitedoggarage]

Thanks Solomon, fitting a new starter motor means you are still fixing your problem and not paying somebody else to do it for you 👍👍👍.

[@paulmullins102]

thanks for the tips

[@whitedoggarage]

Glad to be of help.

[@ah7438]

Hi white dog, Is it possible to reverse the polarity of this type of permanent magnet starter.

[@whitedoggarage]

Reverse the polarity in making the starter run in reverse?

[@codybenoit394]

If this is problem with mine, will it lock up while trying to start it? Like when u hit button it spins couple times then it's like motor locks up. Then eventually it will free up an start. Any ideas I think its something with starter.

[@whitedoggarage]

Cody, hard to know without seeing it. Usually it is the other way round, you hit the button, it seems to lock up and then frees up and starts, in which case it can be battery, high compression motor or just a faulty starter. You are saying it turns the motor over a couple of times then stops like it the motor has locked up. I don't like the sound of that. If I were you I would pull the alternator cover off, you should then be looking at the rotor, and at about 2 o'clock a set of two gears with the starter shaft coming in at about 1 o'clock. Are there teeth missing from any of the gears, the starter shaft, the pair of gears or the gear at the back of the rotor or is there any material that could be caught in those gears - any of this could be the cause of the lock up. If you find nothing then try charging the battery to fully charged or a new battery and see if the condition persists - only then would I think about the starter rebuild based on what you have told me. Hope this helps.

[@codybenoit394]

@@whitedoggarage the battery, stator. And rectifier are all brand new even with battery full charged it's still does it sometimes.

[@codybenoit394]

I was also told my cam chain could b too lose but with engine running I dont hear any rattle noises r lose chain noises.

[@whitedoggarage]

@@codybenoit394 aah do we have new evidence that it only does it sometimes, that sometimes the bike starts just fine and other times it does this lock up thing. Does it do the lock up thing mainly when it is cold or mainly when it is hot or anytime?

[@whitedoggarage]

@@codybenoit394 the cam chain has an automatic spring tensioner so unless the chain is really worn out it shouldn't be loose. In theory it could jump a tooth on the crank sprocket if it is too loose, but that is highly unlikely. In any event touching a valve on the piston, whilst catastrophic, shouldn't stop the starter motor as they are pretty strong.

[@deepdoubts]

I was riding along when I heard a horrible gear sound and expected to go flying but it went away quick and i continued to work without stopping …. When i tried starting later pressing button just a click … Could that noise have been the starter motor ???`Relay and voltage stabilizer thingy recently replaced and battery Full .COR around the Corner :(

[@whitedoggarage]

It is hard to know but you should get it looked at. The starter motor shaft engages a set of two gears which in turn engage a starter clutch on the back of the alternator rotor. That gear sound could have been related to a foul up there, which in turn is locking up the starter motor shaft preventing it from turning when you push the button.

[@alanhoughton3252]

I’ve fixed this starter by turning the body 180 degrees, it now runs correctly, twas my mistake.

[@sulemanaosman2907]

Please I need the magnet positive and negative?

[@DAVIDLANE-nt2gz]

thank you good one

[@whitedoggarage]

Thank you. 👍👍👍

[@jephthahjohnson4382]

My starter make a horrible sound when its activated i changed the brush it stop for a few turns then makes the annoying sounds again what is the issue

[@whitedoggarage]

Check that your permanent magnets are still glued to outewr shell and are noit moiving around.

[@narinsuriyarungsi4878]

Thanks for sharing this video

[@whitedoggarage]

Thanks.

[@briancartwright8430]

Great video..very helpful

[@whitedoggarage]

Thank you.

[@YungCountry1]

Hey how you doing, I just replaced my starter & starter relay solenoid, checking wires & fuses. My 01 Kawasaki ZX9R is trying to start up whenever I touch the positive cable to the battery🤯it does it with the key in the off position, relay connected or disconnected, start switch on or off. Out of ideas, please help

[@whitedoggarage]

I think your relay unit is faulty. My thinking is as follows: when you say the starter turns when ever you touch the positive cable to the battery, the only break in the circuit between the battery and the starter is the relay. Your evidence points towards the relay being closed, thus completing the circuit and making the starter turn. I am not familiar with that model Kawasaki as such, but all relays are much the same, being an electromagnet that when energized (starter button pushed) closes a set of contacts to form the circuit to the starter. Now when you say the relay is disconnected I assume you mean the wire that comes from the starter is disconnected and not the cable from the battery. Now relays normally have a spring holding the connecting bar away from the battery and starter contacts, which means it might have failed or the mechanism inside the relay has come apart causing contact. Easy way is to replace the relay, but in some cases they can be rebuilt. Hope that helps, Bob.

[@YungCountry1]

whitedoggarage thanks for the feedback & the quick reply, I appreciate it

[@julesdesjardins856]

can you do a 1100 virago 1992 yamaha

[@whitedoggarage]

Probably not I'm sorry, I haven't seen a Virago in quite a while and in my shop I specialize in the 4 cylinder Suzuki bikes which tends to be older GS/GSX versions and the GSXR, but thanks for checking.

[@aussiewantok]

Excellent

[@whitedoggarage]

Thanks for watching the video.

[@Feinrizulwur]

Buy new brushes complete BEFORE taking apart. DO make markings and save a lot of time. Use high temp on bearings. It is very embarrassing if the starter fails and probably much more expensive. Even worse if the motorcycle is used to go to your work.

[@whitedoggarage]

Good advice, thankyou.

[@stephensheridan6332]

Brilliant video thankyou

[@anthonyhall5561]

How much do you charge to refurbish a starting motor, for a motorbike?

[@whitedoggarage]

Anthony, nice question that I appreciate, but not one I want to answer in a forum like this. Can you send me an email ([e-mail]) about this and I will tell you. Also, I am based in Brisbane, Australia. Thanks mate, look forward to your email. Bob