Thankyou for watching the video, I really appreciate it 😊

Thankyou for watching the video 👍👍👍

Good question, I did check the bearings and they were fine, but I have been asked about doing a video on replacing the bearings and it is on my list to do.

@@whitedoggarage I have a Kawasaki Z1 900 from 75. My starter motor is currently dead. My next project. Since it was very noisy during the last years (I own it since 30 years), I think the bearings are the problem. Would be great if you could use a starter motor from this model :-)

@@kaifoe The Z1 is not common arround here anymore, but I will give it some thought. Thanks for the heads up.😄👍👍👍

That is different to what you normally expect. First off, "rev to 4000 and launch", did you do that straight after fitting the new clutch plates and springs? New clutches need a bit of time to settle, to bed in. That said, did the rebuild kit include both friction and steel plates? Old steel plates may be distorted and with new friction plates, not engaging properly. I think you probably need to go back into that clutch and check a few things. It is a bit hard on a fully faired bike like yours, but if you can prop it over at about a 60 degree angle, you wont loose much oil. Otherwise, drain the oil into a perfectly clean container and re-use, asumming you have not schreded a friction plate. Before you pull the clutch, check that all the spring bolts are tight, a loose one of those could be the problem. If you have reused the steel plates from your old clutch are they all flat. Is every friction plate between two steel plates. Are all the friction plates still intact. Hope that helps.

Yes it was a bit difficult, thanks for watching 👍👍👍

Good advice, thanks for sharing that. I will keep my eye out for a piece of poplar or walnut to make some wedges out of, thanks.

Thankyou 👍👍👍

Thankyou 😀

Glad to be of help, thanks 👍👍👍

If you have room for a landing zone, a groove at the end of the thread, it should go okay, but still a heart stopping moment disengaging the half nuts. Good luck.

Thanks James, the cold cut one works on wood and aluminium too 😁

Thankyou very much for watching it and I really appreciate your kind comment, thanks.

Thankyou, I am glad it has helped. I posted one recently ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/pJOQZ6ibirSBo7c ) where I tried to give a fuller picture of solving starter motor problems. It covered what to look for when nothing worked, a problem one of my viewers asked about. Probably worth a look if you have time. Thanks again.

Good question and well worth asking. The axe head is still intact 5 years on, and living in suburbia it is an occasional use item, but is used a few times a year. In fact we have been removing some trees at the back of our place and it has seen a bit of use recently chopping roots. When I first had it, I used it quite a bit for de-barking iron bark timber I had cut for fence posts. The method is to bash the bark with the back of the head, which makes it move away from the wood, and then use the axe face to separate the bark from the wood. I suspect using the back of the axe head as essentially a hammer is what caused the crack. Still, it was a time honoured method of doing this.

Thanks interesting... I'm new to welding but not too repairing tools... Just starting to weld some things and getting a feel for it all. Good to know ;) .

@@Jimbob84141 Good on you, just be careful with the electrode choice. E7016 and E7018 work for many and especially the old tools, which are generally just carbon steel. Some of the more modern tool faces will need an exotic filler metal. I did heat treat the head after welding, but did not record any video of that. I am not sure it is that critical for the head area however.

Thanks for bringing that to my attention. When I load the videos, I check a box for the relevant play list, never thought that the videos could be out of order, so I will check. Thanks for telling me.

Thankyou for your kind comment, and thanks for watching the episode 👍👍👍

Good point 😄

I see you edited your question as I was going to point you to the chapter at 15:55 😁. Bigger wheels would be better, but the frame is strong and the wheels on the bench one just as hard. In fairness to the machine, I was using only a small piece of 1.6 mm sheet for the demo. I think a bigger area of sheet would be easier to work.

Je pense que le moteur GSXF est l'ancien moteur refroidi à l'huile de la première GSXR1100. Je pense que le dernier moteur GSXR1100 serait un échange facile. 👍👍👍

Carbs can be an issue. I experienced rough running with the Kat and spent about a year getting it right. I had good idle and good top end, but rubbish middle. Complete rebuild of the carbs and no better. Ended up being the ignition advance unit. I had hit a Kangaroo some years earlier and had to replace the ignition side of the motor which I did using second hand parts. To cut a long story short, the springs in the unit had got old and worn out quicker than the Kat had. My carb experience is replace the emulsion tubes and needles and check your slides are going up together - I used a vacuum cleaner for checking 😁

@whitedoggarage mine was running ok..ISH. Had the carbs balanced and on the stand ran beautifully through the rev range. Took it on the road and it bogged down when opening up over 3k. It was flooding badly. Replaced needles/seats, even worse. Diaphragms and slides all good. Replaced the bungs over the pilot jets, thinking of t could be pulling fuel past under load 🤷🏻‍♂️ seems to run fine on n the stand. Waiting for a dry day to test it. If it is tubes/needles I may as well have put some FCRs on for what it has cost me!!

@@tryordiegarage Interesting issue, the problem with running on the stand is there is no load on the motor. Maybe recheck the positions of the main jet needle clips, there are 3 or 5 (can't remember the number) grooves, and it sounds like it is in the main jet region where the problem lays. Bogging down means you would lower the clip position. I assume you have your float heights right. Good luck with it all, it has been raining here regularly of late, but your weather has been much worse than ours I see.

Thanks for watching the video, the Renegade Industrial welders are good units, so I think you will get good use and experience with it.

Good question, are you sure the fan is working as that describes the symptoms that happen when the fan is not working. The problem with liquid cooled bikes is the motors are much more efficient at losing heat on the move, early vasriations did not even have fans, which makes diagnoisis of the problem harder. Make sure the fan is working, then check whether the radiator fins are partially blocked - use a water hose with reasonable pressure to make sure the fins are clear. After that you could flush the system, but that may not be the solution. The thermostat may be sticking, which might be worth replacing. Good luck 👍👍👍

Thankyou for watching 👍👍👍

I made it, see: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jV62g5ywlqlnfac , thanks for watching.

@@whitedoggarage cheers m8

@@jackpayne2359 No worries 😀

Good idea and worth noting for other users, thanks.👍👍👍

Good question, Steve, I bought it new about 16 years ago and my main complaints relate to design, the placement of the drain plug on the headstock and the design of the tail stock, the latter could have a longer neck. I can, and do precision work on it. There were no digital readout systems on the machines when I started, so being happy to use dials, so I do not miss having a DRO on it, although as I get older, the possibility looms of retrofitting one. It is imperial lathe, but has both metric and imperial dials, which may or may not be a problem for what you want to do. The better quality machines are made in Taiwan, not China like this one, that said, the finish on mine could have been better, but leveled up and adjusted to run true, it does the job. The bore is only 38mm, but I rarely run long material through it. I would buy one again, which I suppose is a recommendation, but would also be looking at the Hafco AL960B, which has a better tailstock (longer neck). Hope that helps, Bob.

Bob, that is fantastic info thankyou. I have the 320g which has been great, but Ilittle tired of change gears and limited feed rates. I was also thinking 960b but, as you said, set up right I think I will go with yours. If it's been going 16 years it must be ok. I can't see major benefit of dro, you still have to measure for accuracy! I sincerely appreciate you taking the time to reply, thankyou! Have a great day sir! Cheers Steve

@@stevegpsych68 Probably worth mentioning that the 320G is a metric lead screw unit as opposed to the imperial lead screw 336 and 960B, if you are fully metric, a metric machine might be the way to go, say the 346V, but that is more money. The 960B is a Taiwanese unit, which is always better off the shelf, but the Chinese get better every year and if you take the time to make sure it is right, the Chinese unit will work well.

Thanks for that information, some bikes arew a real pain to work on. Thanks for watching the video 👍👍👍

Thanks for your kind comment, and thanks for watching the video 👍👍👍

No problems, thanks for watching the video 👍👍👍

Thanks 👍👍👍

Okay, my first though is that you have messed up the alignment of the gearshift shaft gear and the gearsghift cam driven gear, the six teeth on the former should engage the six teeth on the latter with the engagement central, that is, you can draw a line between the centr of both shafts and the teeth are equally spaced above and below the line, with the gear box in neutral. That should sort the gearbox engagement problem. Why your clutch wont disengage, I am not sure if everything is adjusted correctly. I am wondering if the protrusion dogs on the oil pump gear are not engaged properly with the corresponding indents on the primary drive. I assume you have the rack engaged correctly on the pinion gear for the release mechanism. Maybe check that as well, I like minimal free play on the rack, say one tooth, and let the cable and the crank arm take care of the adjustment. I hope that at least gives you something to go on, Good luck.

@@whitedoggarage cheers Bob, much appreciated, I am starting to think I put the main drive basket back incorrectly 🤔

@@tryordiegarage Aaah, okay, good luck.

@@whitedoggarage at least I don't think I lined up the protruding dogs on the oil gear with the primary drive....

@@whitedoggarage cheers Bob you were correct, the dogs on the gear were not slotted in the recesses on the primary drive. All sorted now and much appreciated 👍🏻🍻

Excellent, glad it helped.

Okay, good start, I see you have another comment, so I will put my main reply there.

I run tubes in mine, and my understanding is that the OEM rim is not designed to be tubeless. I wonder if your tire is out of round. Might be worth just looking at the tire turning on its axis to check that, and check the rim as well. Just hold a screw driver against a fork leg or some reference point for the rim, and check the distance from the front of the mudguard (fender) to the tire remains the same as the wheel turns. From memory there are lines in the side wall of the tire, that sit above the rim when fitted, are these running roughly parallel to the rim. Also does the vertical bounce go away, once the tires warmup? One final point, and it wont be the solution to the bounce, Avon recommend a front tire pressure of 36psi for the bike. I hope this helps you find an answer to your bounce.

Bob, that line that you were mentioning is running parallel to the rim all around and on both sides. Measured runout on the rim again which looked to be within spec (axial and radial runout <2mm). So the problem is the tire. I brought it to a vintage motorcycle shop, they eyeballed it and said that the tire will get better over time as it heats up and the irregularities of the rubber get sanded away by the pavement. We will see. Thanks for the video and your response.

@@MW-pv5hl Sounds like you have done all the right things. Those mag wheels are hard to get out of round, short of a major accident, so my thoughts were always focused on the tire. I also think now, as the seating is correct, the tire will come good with a few miles under its belt. If we were talking cars I would be thinking delamination of the steel belts, but that is not a thing with bikes. As a last check, have a look at the manufacture date on the tyre, the numbers will be recessed into the wall and will look like 3421 for example with the first two numbers being the month and the last two the year. I am assuming the tyre has not been on long. If they were quite old when fitted, that is a recent one maybe 5023 or 2024 and an old one will be the previous example 3421 or earlier, then maybe the tyre has deteriorated in storage. Hope that helps, Bob.

Glad to be of help, thankyou.

No, I have not had that pleasure yet.

Thanks for watching 👍👍👍

Good that you have looked at the video, as there are a few directions there. Start with the fuse, is it okay? Then, disconnect the leads to the fan motor and run a wire from one lead to the negative terminal of your battery, and run a second wire from the other lead to the battery and hold it against the positive terminal - does the fan run? If it does nopt run, then yoiu will need to replace the fan. There should be two wires into the fan and splicing the connections is fine, just make sure the blade turns the right way on the fan. If the fan is okay, if you have a multimeter, check that there is battery voltage (should be 12 volts or thereabouts) to the thermostat switch on the radiator. If there is, disconnect the thermostat swith leads and join both leads, does the fan run then? If it runs, the thermostat switch is your problem. Being a dirt bike, have you chgeck all those connections that could be undone by riding through the bush. I hope this advice helps, good luck.

It has neither Arcforce or Hotstart in MMA mode. Both are good features, hot start increases the starting amperage which is very useful for the low hydrogen electrode series, and Arc Force adjusts current flow to keep the weld heat constant, which is particulary useful for out of position welds. I think they are great features even for somebody like me, with 50 odd years of experience, but in my selection of a welder, they are secondary considerations. Does the machine produce an honest 200A, I don't know, that is not a level I work at. It is more about the duty cycle for me. It will do a very nice weld with a 4.0mm low hydrogen rod at 130 to 160, so that is all I want out of it. I think if you want something to run electrodes on site, there are electrode only 200Amp DC welders, which are cheaper and less hassle to cart around.

Yes, thankyou for mentioning that. A 'D type' is the way to go with all the inverter type machines and I totally forgot to mention it at the time.

To the nearest 10mm, it is 550mm long, and 530mm high. The main body is 55mm wide, but the wheels run accross the frame, but the widest points are the feet which, when fitted, make the base 300mm wide. Hope that helps.

M16 x 1.5, that is a metric thread, 16mm diameter and 1.5mm pitch, which at that diameter is a 'fine' thread. I just grabbed a bolt, drilled the centre and ran a tube through it and soldered it in place (might have brazed it, can't rember). I would say the tube I used was too small, it was a bit of scrap laying around at the time. I would be tempted to run a 10mm OD tube through if you had one in that size, as the size I used takes too long to drain. Hope that helps.

@@whitedoggarage Thanks mate, it's about due for it's first service so I will try and grab one of those

@@Gravattack No worries 😀

Thankyou very much, I enjoyed their race battles as well.

Good question, and I had a look at mine and it does look like you can turn the wheel and anvil 90 degrees. There looks to be a set of matching bolt hoples front and back of the wheel mounting and the shaft the anvil mounbts on looks like it could rotate in its mount. Not something I have tried, but it does look very possible. Hope that helps.