Who's a Local and WHO is a kook?

Are all these amazing surfers Locals or Kooks? Do our differences matter? United or divided? F U or hug you?
I need your support, whether that be people or waves or ideas to film, or financial support. Thanks!
clayisland.com/donate/
Jeff Clark Boards, Foils, Wings:
maverickssurfcompany.com/padd...
goo.gl/maps/CFKfVg5mRDSCH3Rf7
Learn to Foil:
clayisland.com/learn-to-foil/
#surfing #surffoil #local #kook

[@clayisland]

I want everyone to feel good. Please give comments of love, joy, stoke, encouragement, excitement, inspiration, compassion, empathy, friendship, kindness, and good vibes. If you are needing love or encouragement or a kind word please ask. If you are wanting to leave different types of comments please read this guide first: clayisland.com/comments/

[@jbsmith991]

When I was a kid I surfed the same reef every day with few exceptions. I remember a day when it was relatively small but very hollow and the reef was sucking out making a perfect barrel. I knew the place like the back of my hand and caught wave after wave. An older guy I didn't know got really mad at me because I was getting so many waves. I was mindlessly surfing, not thinking about anyone else. Later on the beach the older guy wanted to give me a beat down but my friends stood up for me and made it clear that he wouldn't be fighting just me and he walked away. I found out later that a few years earlier he was the guy getting every wave and was considered a "local". Now, years later, none of the reef "locals" would know me. I would be the outsider even though I probably still know the reef better than most. Since surfing got popular in the 1960's the US has added over a 150 million people. It is a miracle if you find an uncrowded day anywhere. And no matter how "local" you feel today, in a few years you will be the old guy that doesn't get to the beach enough to carve out "local" status.Time changes everything. Sadly the people that need to internalize their ethereal "local" status won't read this and wouldn't consider their thinking if they did. I mostly foil now.

[@lylecarlsonsurfboard]

I’m the local and the kook. Worst combination 😊❤

[@markosdehigginson4776]

I always enjoy your videos! A long time ago in Sandy Eggo Skip Frye was being interviewed by a local TV station and he was asked this question. "Who is the best surfer in the water?" Without hesitation he said, "The one having the most fun!" If you keep this in mind for just about anythang in life, I believe it will help you enjoy your adventure here on earth.

[@danamcalister]

When I was in high school I had my local spots and I was never one to kick guys out of the water, but we all knew if there was someone in the water that didn’t surf there everyday. But neither did we. And if you think about it, the best surfers are the ones that surf many different places, types of waves and conditions and to do that you have to travel and not be the local. And more than most of the guys we grew up with, we traveled up and down the coast as well as to Hawaii and Mexico and I personally NEVER got vibed by anyone or kicked out of the water or called a kook, etc. But that was because I know surfing etiquette, I know how to surf fairly well and I am always polite and respectful in the water. I never paddled around a local or called a local off a wave because I had position if I was new to the place, I would wait until my attitude and my surfing spoke for me and more often than not I would get given waves, called over into the main peak or take off zone and told to go and have witnessed other non locals getting kicked out, beat up, boards broken etc and sometimes for indiscretions perpetrated against me. And this has happened more than a few times in Hawaii. So my idea has always been if you surf good and don’t have an attitude and are respectful then you won’t have problems anywhere. I’ve always ridden offbeat stuff too like the old Cheyne Horan keel fin boards, mini Simmons, fish, short round nose thrusters and modern 70’s style single fins and bonzers so it’s been an icebreaker with locals when they see you ripping on something out of the ordinary they paddle up to you and say “fuck, you’re killing it, what are you riding?” And I offer to let them ride my board and then I’m in with them from there. One time on a keel fin on the north shore I was out with Lance Ho’okano and Ross Williams and traded boards with both of those guys and had a killer session all day trading boards and waves!!!

[@wlucky10]

Modern surfing and life philosopher right here, love the narration of your videos.

[@xyzct]

Indeed. Clay's comments are always thoughtful and expansive.

[@ricopo3522]

We are all merely visitors. I think an outlook that brings the best outcome for the ocean we all share a love and debt to, for our mental, and if you will- spiritual wellbeing is choosing the mindset of a guest and caretaker. Gratitude and humility. I think I'm "better", more at ease and get much more enjoyment when I make it a practice before entering, at points in between and getting out of the water to take pause for a good mindful look around to consider these things. It's not a bad way to go on dry land either.

[@Streetsailing]

Oh Man! Such great footage. I know a few people who will appreciate it. So glad I watched to the end. Didn't even know you caught that session. EPIC!

[@JeffClarkSurfboards]

8:24 stoked on the video and the perspective. Big wave lineups seem to be a lot more inclusive. I heard something from a long time surfer, the hardest, surfers come from the softest beaches. Thanks for putting the time in Clay to hopefully opening peoples minds to keep searching for freedoms, like in the mind of Jonathan Livingston Seagull

[@DamianMathew]

great and hilarious video 😂

[@martinomovies]

I live in Chicago and there are very few surfers, windsurfers, and foilers. Although I want the sport to grow, I fear that one day I won’t be able to park at my local spot or the beach will just keep on increasing the prices for the parking passes. I think that day is far off, but I can understand how a local guy could get stressed as the crowds and prices grow.

[@jbcaptain11]

I just want a respectful lineup if there’s 250 people out

[@shreddagorge]

Ah, the reasons why I left Santa Cruz for HMB and then just took up wind sports.

[@MarkBohn]

Are you now riding a longer down wind barracuda style foil board at surf spots ? Do they catch waves easy please give me your input . Thanks .

[@clayisland]

I have yet to ride one.

[@BrettWae]

I just want to share stoke with everyone.

[@xyzct]

Plot twist: The local _is_ the kook.

[@morninglasssurfboards6904]

Locals know who the locals are. It means you surf a spot day after day, season after season, year after year, decade after decade.