Did this cheap oil filter cause my low oil pressure issues?

[@talljohnsfunshop2722]

I doubt this is your problem, but I had a poorly maintained 318 do that onetime, and It turned out to be the sending unit. Sludge had built up around the hole, and it took about 6-7 seconds to go off and 5-6 seconds to go back on. Looking forward to the next installment.

[@brianandrews7099]

I have seen those video about Fram filters, and while I do agree that they are manufactured very cheaply compared to even store brand filters, I must admit that I have never experienced any problems or mechanical issues due to any brands of oil filter and still occasionally use a Fram when either they are the only size filter available on the shelf when I am purchasing materials for an oil change or if I find a really good deal on one. I would image that if the oil filter had been the cause of your slow cold oil pressure, it is more likely an issue of the filter’s age; the old oil had clogged the filter or the filtering material itself was so old, it was beginning to deteriorate after so many years of service. I believe my next move would be to replace the oil sending unit and see if the problem just goes away.

[@8092DJ]

These videos are invaluable. Thank you

[@jimroy969]

Those old engines had loose tolerances to start with. Using conventional sae30 or 20w50 and a cellulose fibre oil filter may cure your problem. Fram synthetic filters cause knock on start up and low oil pressure until filter goes into bypass mode. High micron rated filters, synthetic / semi synthetic oil cause low oil pressure and are best suited to newer engines with tight tolerances. 5w and 10w oils also cause low oil pressure in high mileage engines as that's the viscosity the oil will shear to.

[@hankkauffman6612]

Tyler, the oil pressure relief valve in the oil pump can get gunked up. If it sticks open, oil pressure goes away. The spring and relief valve needs to be taken out and cleaned. and also the bore. Crocus cloth on the valve. That filter was a hoot. Been rotting on there for a while. Hope you figure it out. Maybe try a new sending unit too?

[@pauljanssen7594]

That's definitely not your problem when you got a worn-out motor that's not been properly serviced. It's a Mopar.

[@OldCarAlley]

I've used Fram filters in the past and never had issues with them. I guess there filter media is not that great though. I usually use the manufactures brand. I have had two AC filters leak at the seam on the Bel Air in the past. No issues with the Motorcraft filters on the Ford's. I see you made an oil filter drainer too...... They work good. I have been using one for 40 years now. My dad suggested it. Put a mechanical oil gauge on your slant six, as I bet you have a bad oil sending unit..... maybe.

[@65bugnut]

It does look like the oil filter is coming apart internally. You could try removing the oil pressure sender, and clean the end of it. Or temporarily hook up a cheap oil pressure gauge to see what the pressure is.

[@themoe6701]

Good video. The anti drainback valve probably deteriorated from sitting in oil for so long...probably a part of the problem. Those old rubber valves do deteriorate. I agree with others that cleaning the pressure sender may help. The old Ford and Chevy straight 6's don't run much oil pressure...if this one is similar that may be a piece of the puzzle along with likely loose tolerances in an old engine. My theory is its likely a combo of things going on. You've got a good filter on there now at least. Never had a problem with Baldwin or wix

[@JodieMix]

The adbv deteriorated from age. That filters a dinosaur. Replace it, the oil, and slap a mechanical gauge on it to see the real pressure.

[@RichardBly-c7i]

Could also be your rod and main bearings they might be good but not enough to hold pressure

[@moparnut6286]

#1 none of the old Mopar oil gauges read correctly caused by the mechanical voltage regulator that can not provide a steady 5 volts to the gauges and the oil light is not to be trusted... Neither is the ancient oil filter but that being said the use of a good quality mechanical oil gauge is the only way to know what your oil pressure really is.... Case in point my 87 Ramcharger 318 roller cam 89 engine reads 1/3 up the oil gauge hot...which on a mechanical gauge is 35psi at idle hot in gear...and as soon as you hit the gas the gauge goes straight up to 75psi...this is the only way to truly tell if the engine is producing healthy oil pressure... Your postmortem of the oil filter just proves that getting quality filters and oil and maintaining it all on time is crucial to engine life.... But a good mechanical oil pressure gauge can save you a ton of time diagnosing these issues....and never trust a factory gauge or light..... If you have an engine that starts out with good oil pressure then goes really low using a mechanical gauge...and when you give it gas it does not build oil pressure fast... 9 out of 10 times rod bearings and mains are down to copper....lack of maintainece is what really kills them.

[@hansblooeyribbon4207]

I don't think modern filters play well with the standpipe. I used K&N after a rebuild and it seemed sluggish to develop pressure at cold start. Removed the pipe and now using Motorcraft.

[@nightstorm9128]

They love it up em..

[@olikat8]

Not sure about that, could be or a few other things- maybe a combo platter. For my cheaper rides, Super Tech Synthetic. However, the filters I use? Baldwin B-2 or Wix 51515 (including the filters they make for Parts Master, NAPA) on my old Chryslers. Anything Pennzoil? Steer way clear-

[@nightstorm9128]

Don't be there before your back,,,,,,,Irish saying,,,

[@nightstorm9128]

No fancy shtuff jusht baat it inta me...............some midlands irish slang ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,Da cross a jazus bayz,,,,

[@vincemajestyk9497]

No. Just no.