How to adjust carburetor mixture screws

[@islandluv1]

I know this is an old video, but damn if it hasnt helped me out tremendously. Just bought an 86 motorhome with a rochester 4bbl, and even though I've worked on my own cars my whole life, I've never had the "privilege" of working on a carbureted motor. My poor old Bertha was running rich, but when I patched up the fuel pressure regulator (it was literally just pissing out fuel), she was running so rich that she barely ran at all. I should be able to get her dialed in just right now, and its thanks to this video!

[@Makeitliquidfast]

Tyler, thanks for getting back to me so fast on the idle mixture tool needed, I will try to find one. Since watching your video I have rebuilt my carb and it runs like new, my son (who is a fuel injection loving mechanic) is even impressed. The guys at the local carb shop also were amazed when I showed them how to tell the 800 from the 750! Thanks again.

[@TheChrismanis1791]

ran across the plug over the adjustment screw on a toyota 22r i used a dremel and small chisel didnt feel like taking it off helped the truck a ton. Good video i was trying to explain this to my cousin how you just have to feel the sweet spot but he said i sounded crazy.

[@eliasfarnum1452]

Awesome, I got a 78 dodge b200 with a 360 motor and it doesn't like to start, once running fine. I have to question the automotive center I just paid 630 dollars for oil change and tune up. I'm doing this myself as per your video, excellent explanation of what I'm doing. Thank you!

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

$630?? Wow, they saw you coming, sorry to say. Those old Mopars are super easy to learn to work on. Feel free to ask anything you want. Those V8's like a lot of choke, your hard starting issue is probably related to that.

[@eliasfarnum1452]

Wow, thanks. I need all the free help I can get with this running project. It's 4wd modified van.

[@Faith0929ROK]

I forgot to add that my old QJet in my car is a 750cfm. Reason why I bought a new one is that current carb is horrible on cold start and bogs on second gear along with I saw fuel leak spot on front of the carb. When the engine is warmed up, carb runs flawlessly in normal and WOT driving. Your video has been added to Corvette Forum in C3 corvete tech section.

[@karmalord]

Hey,want to chime in and say thanks from the everyday guy who is not a mechanic,but watched your video and was able to get my truck to idle again by adjusting the three screws until I achieved that sweet spot. It also helped when I plugged that vacuum hose back in that got disconnected!

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

+Jim Price awesome!

[@russelldavis6159]

Wanted to tell you, by far this is the best training method I have seen regarding carbs for vehicles, especially for 2 bbls. Thanks for the info, gonna get a vacuum tester today and do what you instructed....and yes, shorter videos result in more watches....have a good day...

[@Makeitliquidfast]

I don't know what I like better the info or Tyler! Would love to have you talk about the 1985 K5 Blazer Rochester with all that crap emission stuff on it. I have a bog in the mid range performance. When sitting the engine performs right, but under a load (driving) the engine stumbles. There was some crap in the tank, but I don't think anything is in the float bowl. I love your way of putting things, thanks so much.

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

Glad everyone has been helped by this video.

[@bottmar1]

I always find the fastest speed that the engine idles with each mixture screw and then turn them out 1/2 turn to allow for any contamination that can get into the circuit later on which will lean them out. This will cut down the chances of idle problems sooner and postpones further idle problems. A little too lean is worse than a little to rich so it's better to give yourself a little "cushion" with that extra 1/2 turn out. I've done this for 43 years and it works better for less maintenance.

[@eaglebirdie1968]

Great Video and easy to follow instructions. After months of trying to fix hot hard starts and cutting out when adding throttle on my Mercruiser 4.3L TKS I rebuilt the carb and she work great (for now). I couldn't figure out however why Mercury or GM had a tamper proof thing around the mixture screw until this video - and now it makes sense. Anyway I cut it off so I can adjust the mixture and can now finish the job with this guide then get on the water - thanks heaps from Australia.

[@thomastydings5659]

Tyler - Thanks for this video about adjusting mixture screws. This is the 2nd of your videos I've viewed and find your style of teaching very helpful. I appreciate your thorough and methodical approach to covering a topic. I'm prepared now to tackle adjusting the mixture screws on my CJ-7's Carter BBD. I feel like I know what to expect and how to preform this adjustment correctly. Great job! Keep 'em coming.

[@88sidman]

Dood! you just saved me from loosing my mind. I have a 92 Dodge ram d150 and its running extra rich, and so I have been needing to find where those mixture adjustment screws were. So thank you so much man!

[@PaulCTownsend]

Good job, Gm was forced to build the feed back carb so they could maintain a 14.7 fuel ratio, this is the fuel ratio the Catalytic converter needed to operate efficiently. Keep up the great videos.

[@bm239]

great video man, I'm 18 and just bought a 65 mustang coupe and I'm trying to learn how to work on everything and this video explained it perfectly! thanks man!

[@galeprice3276]

Penutbutter And jealous o

[@twenglish1]

Thanks for all the help! the engine is currently not in a vehicle, i am either building a break-in stand or borrowing one, so i will need to throttle up to 2000 rpm directly on the carb, i will install a longer idle screw to make sure i can get it high enough

[@oberurselts]

Great video. Just inherited a 1987 Monte Carlo SS with the 305 High Output Engine. I was having a problem with what I thought was the OEM Rodchester Carb. The car would start fine but within 3 to 5 miles will start to miss, skip, and backup not out the tailpipe but within the exhaust manifold or perhaps the intake manifold, not really sure. I was not sure it was the carb so I pulled the distributor cap to look at it and the rotor button. On a G Body, what a pain. First, it is at the back of the engine and secondly to get it reinstalled you really have to pull a few of the sparkplug wires from the cap because it will not mount properly because of the tension of the attached wires. As it turned out, I discovered to hot wire for the choke was not correctly fitted because someone had used an undersized spade connector to connect to the blade connector of the automatic chock. I refitted the choke hotwire with a proper size spade connector. I believe the hot wire for the choke was loose, so every time I hit a bump in the road, the choke hotwire would jiggle loose and then the choke would activate thus send excess fuel into the carb and thus the skip, miss, and backup. Problem solved, Car runs fine but I have to adjust the fuel/air mixture that requires a special tool which I ordered from Amazon and will have in a couple of days. Again, thanks!

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

Awesome! I think that tool used to be made by Thexton or something like that.

[@jonbennett118]

Tyler you are the only reason i know anything about my trans am's carb! Thank you!

[@nuclearbum9858]

just put a 454 in my c-10 with a new carb you just saved me a lot of time looking for a carb guy i purchased the tool today from advance auto thanks

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

CONCRETE MONEY You are welcome. Since fuel injection got common some of the old time knowledge got pushed aside.

[@DIYApprentice]

Thanks for the explanation - very helpful. I just rebuilt a carb for the first time for my truck (Rochester 2GV); I believe the accelerator pump was bad, but the rest of the carb was due for an overhaul, also. The truck runs very well now, but I didn't know exactly how to tune the carb. I bought a vacuum pressure tester, and I'm looking at buying the RPM80 adapter for my Fluke meter to fine-tune it. This project turned out to be more fun and less of a chore than I first thought :)

[@edwardh1003]

This video helped me get my 350 running much better today. Thank you

[@allincamo]

Made 100% sense. Thanks for simple video that works.

[@karlporath8904]

the small vacuum Port you pointed to on the right front of the carburetor is for the vacuum advance in the distributor. this is the most commonly hooked up wrong part of any carbureted car it only gives vacuum while the throttle is opened don't try to set idle air with that port

[@senior4546]

very helpful !!!!, thank you so much i broke apart and rebuilt my carburetor (rochester 2v), but didnt now how to ajusted , as engine running rough and smelly, now i feel confident and tomorrow ill give it a shot armed of course with a vacum gauge from harbor,,ill see how it plays out,,thanks again!!!

[@nomoniggs]

Man thanks a lot for the helpful video.Its good to see people out there that don't want money to help the fellow man out, awesome video to, easy for the average person to follow.

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

+nomoniggs Thank you for the kind comments.

[@dariomendoza6892]

poor working people we,re ,all in the same Boat. greatly Appreciated!!

[@3709280]

hey man thanks for this. you make the internet a better place

[@pablo6305]

Thank you. You explained air fuel better than anyone if ever talked to about. Wish I would have watched this couple years ago, when I was working on 77 Ironhead. I sold that daily maintenance piece of shit and bought suzuki. Anyways thanks a lot. My rochester is now getting way better gas milage.

[@berniebass3575]

Sometimes on quadrajet carburetors they have factory stainless steel plugs you have to notch them out in a v section on the bottom of the carburetor then you can go ahead knock out the stainless steel plugs then adjust your carburetor.

[@NewMoonTelescopes]

This was very well done. Quick, simple, and even an ignoramus like myself can figure it out now! Thanks!

[@zackhull9744]

helped me out a lot. i been doin it the opposite way. i just bought a 1974 gmc c1500 with a small block 350 in it and couldnt figure out what i was doin wrong until now

[@AlphaJulietBravo1]

Cool video, thanks! Can't wait to start building my 72 Nova 350 coupe. Planning headers, exhaust, intake, carb, and a better camshaft over the stock peanut cam.

[@ahmedkamalalkamali6929]

Thanks Tyler.. all ur Vedios about Q-jet was so useful, I learned a lot from ur Vedios.. many thanks

[@akarlsoen]

Just what I needed! Thanks from Norway!

[@McDoodles4u]

Thanks! This is not what I have read from other people but the more research I do the more it points to this direction. I also have a 96 boat with a qjet on it. I'm assuming a boats sweets pot will be the same??

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

A replacement comes in a carb rebuild kit. Ethanol eats away at the older cups that were not the updated material. You can pull the breather off with the engine OFF and cold, and see whether the carb squirts gas into the venturi when you work the throttle.

[@mw-dc1by]

Awesome video! I'm about to swap two Rochester 4bbl on Mercruiser 260s tomorrow (350 small block). One engine idled faster than the other and we thought it might be the throttle cable. Thanks for the idea to check the idle screws!

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

If you look around at the parts store you can usually still find a long, flexible adjusting tool for electronic carburetors. They come with 4 different tips that are stored in the handle.

[@davidmckinney6577]

Thanks Tyler for your videos it just helped me fix my Cadillac carburetor..

[@vbermhip9270]

Worken on my 74 Charger. This was very helpful! Thanks brother. DILLY DILLY!

[@sizzlersshop]

Excellent details! I have 2 issues here. I have a 78 lincoln in excellent original condition with 65000 miles on it. The car never was used in the rain or winters. with a 460 and a motorcraft 4150 carb on it. The car has all the original smog stuff on it and it all works using a vacuum pump and leak tester. Both catalytic converters have been emptied some time in its life and the exhaust has no restrictions. The engine vacuum indicates a strong fault free engine, plugs are perfect with a little soot and are new. Air filter is new. Gas filter new. The problem is that it bogs from idle when its sitting or if I'm cruising and decide to hit the gas to pass a farm vehicle. When I'm cruising, I have noticed it seems to sputter here and there at cruising speed. With the car cold the choke system is working ok. There does not appear to have any vacuum leaks as I tested that with carb cleaner. When I try to do the vacuum idle air/fuel adjustment, there is no problem doing the right side but the left side makes no difference. I have not pulled the bad side idle mixture screw out to see if the taper is broken or if some clown screwed it in so tight that it broke through the horn. Next issue, I cannot get a slow idle adjustment when it's normally running at 190 degrees. I cannot seem to adjust the main idle screw down enough to be able to properly adjust the idle RPM. It always seems to run a little faster in RPM than it normally should at idle even if the screw is all the way backed out so it doesn't touch the plate. The choke fast idle is OK so that's not holding the idle open. When I force the throttle manually from the carb to close it then dips to what seems as a normal idle speed. There is no bind in the carb to pedal adjustment holding it open either. I'm thinking that whatever is causing the higher than normal idle, the hesitation from acceleration, the sputtering at cruise speed and the inability to adjust the left mixture screw may be the problem area. The accelerator spits a nice stream on both sides so I know it's not that. Any input would be appreciated on these 2 issues. Your videos are the best I've ever seen because you go into great details.

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

Thank you for the nice comments. Well, you have several pieces of evidence that at first glance appear to point to a vacuum leak. If the throttle plate is closed tight with the screw backed out and away, and the engine still idles, then air must be getting "around" the throttle plate somehow. I suspect that you may have either a worn throttle shaft bore or possibly a leaking baseplate gasket under the carb. When I was about 17 I had an Impala with a common old 350 engine and a Qjet. It always had a tip-in stumble and also idled high and rather uneven. One day I decided to take the carb off and work on it, and when I got the carb off I found the baseplate gasket was cracked and had caused a vacuum leak. I replaced that and it solved both issues immediately. I'd also recommend following each and every vacuum line to it''s destination including the PCV valve and look closely for cracks. I think you are going to find your issue in one of the areas I mentioned. Btw, i had a '78 Marquis myself and I believe that carb is a Motorcraft 4350, which is a spreadbore somewhat similar to a Qjet.

[@sizzlersshop]

I think mine is a 4350. The marquis is pretty well the same car in many aspects. Heres what Im going to do. Im going to replace a few valves. The PCV, the heat valve in the lid of the breather, Definitely the EGR cause when I spray carb cleaner around that area, there was a dip in RPM. Once I've done all that, Im going to change out all the vacuum lines with new ones and color code them as original. When I bought the car, The owner said they had the carb rebuilt and it looks like there was some work done to it because the welch plugs are new. Im going to strip the carb down and rebuild it if nothing is broken. I will rebush the throttle plate shafts also. I have all winter to get er done cause I dont use this car in the winter. I have some vacumme guages and a vacuum gun to run some tests but for sure everything will be replaced and then we will see whats up after that. The old smog systems were a real spider web of hoses. I know that the mixture screws might be an issue but if they look OK then there has to be some sort of leak bypassing that side of the system. Hey, thanks for getting back to me. I need all the help I can get.

[@mmbz67a]

Thanks for the info, hard to find good info on old school motor tuning.

[@conleykelvin]

Damn good video very informative. I'm trying to learn this dying art cause its hard to find anyone that know anything remotely about carbs. Thank you very much!

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

haha..I think it's basically finding another route to the same destination. Your end goal, in ANY method of adjusting idle mixture, is to achieve the highest idle and highest vacuum reading. I guess people have different methods but you cannot do it correctly just by saying turn out or in the screws X amount of turns and that's it.

[@dlfranci]

Great video, thanks! I do have a couple questions though. The highest vacuum reading that I can get is 15" and that is about 5-6 revolutions open from starting at all the way closed on both idle mixture screws, but when I do this it seems to run poor. If I take it down to 13" which is 4 revolutions open it runs a lot better. Why is it running better on 13" as opposed to 15" and secondly, does 4-6 revolutuions from open seem too rich, or would that seem reasonable?

[@DRJIVAN]

Great video! Thanks for explaining everything. I have a Valiant Charger RT with 3 double 45 Webers. Engine just rebuilt and carbs redone but running rough and a bit rich I think. Is there a particular way I should attack the tuning?

[@LokiX76]

Thank you so much for this. I just got a newly rebuilt carb and I think this is going to help my issues. Thanks again.

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

+A. Dubs Many Endeavors Glad to help all of you.

[@denna7442]

tyler ur videos are by far the best...i have a 86 caprice 5.0 not sure if its 307 or 305 but anyway someonecstarted ripping off emissions stuff...which ee dont have to worry so much about in ky but i cannot find a video on how to correctly remove what's left and get vaccum lines correct dont know what to block or what not to block off. its my daily drivervand i depend on it to get my kids to appointments etc. now it is dieseling an wont shut off. also someone has turned the big screw on top of carb way down in and i cannot find a video on how to adjust this. it also will not idle down even with idle screw not even touching any help would b greatly appreciated. I am sure u r very busy guy so if u cant reply i completely understand.bthank u in advance in love your videos very informative.

[@mirabilo]

Americans make great instructional videos. Thanks.

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

@KawiRider20 I haven't worked on a jet ski, but most carbs of any sort have mixture adjustment provisions. They may have 2 screws, one for low speed mixture and one for high speed, esp if it's a 2-stroke.

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

On those you have to find a special tool which is essentially a long, flexible driver about 1-1/2 foot long, with a screwdriver handle on it. It comes with 4 special tips that fit over various types of mixture screw heads. It's sort of obsolete now but I'm sure you can find one online if need be. I think it's called "GM carburetor adjusting tool".

[@DoctorCreepy]

Informative video! The Fairlane is running great now.Thanks!!!!!

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

That sounds very much like an ignition problem, because it's under load, but there are a few other things that you should check: Have you checked the timing? That's the absolute baseline you start with dealing with potential ignition issues. Also make sure the ignition advance is working. I would also do a compression test to rule out a valve problem. I think with an unknown engine I would pop the valve covers and watch all the rockers with the engine running-con't

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

@Texassince1836 You can still find the tool used to adjust those. It has a long flexible shaft and several different tips for various screw types.

[@pavielleevans2553]

I have to do this tomorrow to my 80 Bonneville I appreciate the helpful information

[@80fordmustang6]

Great video I just bought a 84 ramcharger with a 360 and a qudrajet gonna try adjusting the carb now

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

I would check for vacuum leaks, and also the ethanol gas may be eating the accelerator pump cup up.

[@MaxMatt2]

How come I haven't found this video before?! Very informative, but my Rochester Quadrajet doesn't react in the way you describe to adjusting the idle mixture screws. It runs perfectly when reved higher, but in idle it works very rough, occasionally stalls when hot. When I adjust the screws the idle just gets more rough. It produces loads of HCs when idling 2000-3000 (norm 50).

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

Yes...but I think in your case I would also take a good look at float level adjustment and the condition of the inlet needle and seat.

[@milehighclassics]

Coolio job done thanks, one question, does the large intake pipe connect to the valve cover or the carbon container

[@stevee6122]

Thank you for the incredibly informative vids. I rebuilt my Quadrajet while watching your rebuild series. Car runs great on 2bbl only. secondary air doors don't open hardly at all when kicked in. The secondary is getting fuel, but with little air it floods out when trying to kick in the 4 bbl. Any ideas? (I did notice it seems like the dampener, (choke pull of) keeps a high vacuum even when warmed up and throttled.

[@2broke2cr0ak]

Very helpful video, but I still have a question I have a 84 GMC with the 454 Big Block, and it idles really high when I first start it for almost 4 solid minutes then I have to pump the throttle at least twice pretty hard before it idles down to where I feel it should be, temperature doesn’t make a difference weather it’s 95 or 55 out side it does it no matter what...where do I go if this doesn’t make a difference? Thank you!

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

@mikeinsanediego well you want the idle to be close to normal before you begin so that you aren't running on the main circuit. So, the first thing is to back the base idle down to a normal range, then begin your mixture screw adjustments.

[@tannerarant1680]

Thanks for the video, you explained it perfectly

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

@edpleasure Usually lightly seated and then 2-1/2 turns out is a good starting point that will get it running.

[@xpmark1]

Thanks,very good instructions.I am new to learning about carburetors and would like to know what adjustments are usually done to tune a 3 x2 barrel set up.Do the terms balancing and sychronizing apply to 3x2 set ups?If I had some basic guidelines I can read up on the details.

[@Nivicoman]

Excessive timing advance along with manifold vacuum being used for the vacuum advance can do that or it's running too LEAN. Back the mixture screws out and see if that helps. If it's not that make sure the vacuum advance is connected to PORTED vacuum (no vacuum at idle until about 1000 rpm or so).

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

Check your base timing to see whether it's too far advanced.

[@goobermintheretik1454]

Anyone watching is also listening intently, ie., very closely to every word. Words can be impotent.

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

@danbirchjr My guess is that the float is sticking or the inlet needle has trash in it and is noy closing off the fuel supply completely. When you have the mixture screws that loose it is introducing air into the mixture and band-aiding the rich running. You'll need to pull the airhorn off so you can inspect the needle valve and the float. Good luck!

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

@skyjac92 You can adjust the base idle after you finish adjusting the mixture screws.

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

@britishav8tor75 Yes, black pipes is too rich of a mixture. I would check the choke operation first as well as adjusting the mixture screws correctly. If by not kicking down you mean not dropping a gear, TH400's use an electrical switch to activate the kickdown. Not enough room to explain it here but you can google it and learn a lot about it.

[@jm-hl1nr]

Great help...now my problem is wont idle at all when hold throttle but it floods...any ideas for a base setting for our quadrajet

[@escatel123]

Great Video lots of info.. quick question I have an fe 360 ford engine with 2bbl carb. I got the engine to start but every once and a while i have a fireball shoot out of the carb. Will the mixture screws fix this problem.. Iam assuming that the engine is burning to rich???

[@flyntstone777]

It is a quadrajet. I did better with it today with setting mixture. I have much less dieseling now. I still have a bit of hesitation upon accelerating from a stand-still. Also, the idle adjustment is all the way out (disengaged from the throttle linkage). That must mean something is out or worn.

[@kylenapierkowski4311]

Thanks for the vid! Easy to understand for a novice like me

[@andrewpaul775]

Thank you I'm from Canada you help me out alot keep up the good work

[@Marthinusjacobus]

That was extremely helpful and saved me a ton of backs. Thank you very much.

[@jon_and_jones9074]

hey i have learned alot from your videos. i have a boat with a 305/w a quadra jet. i bought a new carb for it. im trying to adjust the idle mixture screws. as much as i turn them it doesnt change the rpms of the motor. im trying to get this adjusted so i can use it for the 4th of july.

[@wafuakobefore]

Very nice information guide. Sir I would like to ask, on my '95 Toyota Tercel, previously when i start the engine in the very morning, i heard of the high idling engine sound, but after an overhauling on the oil leakage by the mechanic, that high engine sound gone which is abnormal because when I activate the A/C the engine vibrate and shutting down. What do you advise sir?

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

More explanation needed: Are you saying it dies ANY time it goes under 1500 rpm, or just when it is cold?

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

Back in the day they either ran three 2bbls, or two 4bbls. For a street engine I think dealing with the linkage negates any real performance boost. When I say a GOOD 750 Qjet, I mean one no later than about a 1971 model, because later than that the calibration built into the carb got progressively leaner(less fuel) because engines got more suckier.

[@akabone]

Hi, nice video very helpful! I was wondering my chevy 350 4bbl, not everytime but stalls once I gear to Drive. When Im Parking its fine but as soon I switch to Drive or Reverse it idle and slowly stall. And if it runs normally at a stop light the engine idles like it about to stall again. Do i need to adjust the carb or is it something else?

[@volvo1971]

Here's maybe a strange carb question: how can you adjust them for best fuel economy and cleanest emissions ? I have a 1972 Volvo. The previous owner installed a Weber 32 / 36 but I think it's running rich. The car came from the factory with a Zenith Stromberg dual barrel carb which I still have. Any preference on which is better? Thanks for the easy-to-understand video.

[@mikeinsanediego]

@WhoSaidTyler hey tyler,im not perfectly clear on this....should you set the base idle first and then adj. a/f mix or vice versa ...i gotta a 67 camaro w/ man trans thats idling way high in neutral and running really rich...although when i drop it into first gear the idle drops alot...the car boggs cold but the choke seems to be opening up fine...any help greatly appreciated...thanks for the cool vid uploads

[@rklinkenberg]

thank you very much. simple and effective.. much appreciated

[@JorgeGonzalez-vx1jk]

Hi, I just bought a 72 Cadillac Eldorado with the 8.2L engine, and I noticed that when I'm at highway speeds and release the accelerator in order to let the engine idle, there's a very strong smell of fuel that hits me. It's really strong. I have a feeling the car is running rich, but is this a symptom of something else that needs to be done to the carburetor ?

[@thebluepen]

my truck has a problem with dieseling after shutting down. was wondering if doing what you did in this video would cure my dieseling problem

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

@escatel123 That's more commonly from a lean accelerator pump shot. That's probably an autolite carb, and you can replace the accel. pump leather easily. It's on the front of the carb, a small cover held on by 4 screws. You need to adjust the mixture anyway, that's just basic maintenance.

[@kellymathis2773]

Great Videos! Thank you. Do you have any tips for adjustment at a higher altitude? Rich vs. Lean?

[@michaelcadena2029]

Great video! On point! THANKS MY FRIEND

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

@manlymud No. The idle mixture screws only control the mixture at idle, has nothing to do with mpg or power. What it means is turn the screw one direction or the other until the idle speed is the fastest. No set spot, just experiment. The engine slows down when you go too far either direction.

[@kellybarrows3297]

Great video man, this helped me a lot.

[@raphialhebert]

Thanks for the informative video. I'm learning as I go, but I'm restoring a 74 Firebird with a 350 block, 2 brl carb.

[@Blakemc1982]

I am pretty new to messing with carbs. I bought a 79 jimmy with a stock 350 a few months ago and has pretty much ran like crap. Major bogg when under throttle. I watched this vid a few days ago and this morning went out to see how off the mixture was. On both mixture screws, either way I turned the screws the RPM never changed. What do you sugest. Thanks for the vids.

[@HolyDabrip420]

using this same method. i could essentially tune down the idle lower if i wanted right?

[@fdebbas2]

Great video thanks. I have a question about 1965 Mercedes Zenith double carburetors . I had them rebuilt and trying to adjust them. The back carb is fine the front one start fine with the choke on then once it warms up it quits. My mechanic said I have a vacuum leak from a warn Throttle shaft can you advise? also where can I have this shaft re- bored? Thanks.

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

sounds like the accelerator pump leather is going away. On those carbs it's inside a small cover on the front face of the carb. 4 screws hold it on. Make sure it isn't leaking at any time.

[@MMilitia]

Thanks for the info, just a little question, i have a Bocar carburetor on a vw 1.8l motor, it consumes tons of fuel, ralenti at 800 rpm, no black smoke, a little gas odour on exhaust, could you tell me which screws do i have to adjust and how? i'd thank you.

[@TylersNeighborhoodGarage]

@89blackcamaro It has to be a source that delivers a full 12v that goes on and off with the key. I don't know if it's a camaro as your name says, but GM makes that easy because there are extra terminals provided on the fuse block. Look for one labeled IGN. Don't use BAT, those stay hot all the time. If it's another kind of car or truck you might take the 12v source off the power feed for the wiper motor. Be sure to ground the black wire if the choke has one.

[@twenglish1]

So i am in the process of building my first engine, and i will be using a quadrajet, is there is a good rule of thumb to get the idle mix settings in the ball park for the initial start up? i want to be sure it fires on the first crank, to avoid damaging the brand new cam/lifters and new crank/rod bearings