Why classic menswear got boring: understatement

Thanks to George Bryan Brummell the early 19th century is a super important period for the development of classic menswear. One of the most interesting aspects is the concept of understatement which I try to explain in this video.
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[@Vintagebursche]

Hey guys! Sorry that it took me so long. I'm working on another video right now (a lookbook!), so you won't have to wait that long for the next video.

[@tea_empire]

Take as much time as you need I'll be here waiting for another awesome video

[@MadameMinima]

Hi Niklas, ich hatte Ihnen vor einer Woche eine Mail geschrieben. Vielleicht hatten Sie auch noch nicht die Zeit die Mail zu lesen. Ich würde mich über eine Antwort freuen. Danke 😊

[@subversivelysurreal3645]

I am a woman, and I LOVE that shirt. (…I mean, for me.) Thank you! I’ll wear it with all sorts of vests, and it’s perfect for the holidays. Danke.

[@TedEhioghae]

Women are worse, they dress half-naked.

[@themoderndandy713]

If I were to only wear a suit when everyone else does, I could go my whole life without wearing a suit here in Colorado! Even at the opera people wear jeans, just with a button down shirt rather than a t shirt. It's a sartorial depression as great as the stock market crash of 1929! Thank goodness I simply don't care what everyone else thinks and does and just dress and live life how I want.

[@lemonysnicket3153]

You're literally at every classic menswear channel

[@themoderndandy713]

@@lemonysnicket3153 I suppose I am! It's a major passion for me. If I can learn about it and improve my style, I'm all for it.

[@carltrotter7622]

@@lemonysnicket3153 Agreed. He’s omnipresent.

[@SprezzaturaLifestyle]

When a society is in decline fashion and style decline with it.

[@planetpompom]

I went to the ballet recently and saw a young guy in gym shorts! We don't have to be wearing tuxes and ballgowns, but come on now.

[@paulaj7682]

You sir, would stand out on most street corners in America. The men would be either envious of your bravery in rocking your personal style, or total clods whose opinions matter naught. The woman would almost universally swoon. Although quite a few of us would ask you what play you were advertising, because at heart we tend to be a bit cloddish. I love your channel and your style. Thank you for such great content.

[@TheRacso2552]

I can agree with the principles in a society that actually has a culture of dress but I feel like we don't anymore. Nowadays people just wear stuff so they are not naked. If I want to wear anything I truly enjoy I will stand out to most but it doesn't bother me.

[@themoderndandy713]

Fashion etiquette today is rather crippling for the elegant man. You must wear your clothes you enjoy once per year (that being a suit, much less more formal clothes) or risk being rude. I hear I must only wear white tie when everyone else does, but I love wearing tails! If I were to follow this, I wouldn't wear it for my entire lifetime! I say that with the decline in elegance, a focus on individuality has risen. We must no longer dress en vogue or risk octricization. If people think I'm rude, let them! Life is only lived once, don't let it be lived on other people's terms.

[@houndoom1234]

To a Victorian, the world today must appear to be one big nudist colony

[@xerlmx]

@@themoderndandy713 I mean, I love to wear a Suit, but I also love to dress with a college jacket, Hoodie and in my opinion nice Jordens. And I am very happy that the sociaty today let me do this, I can wear whatever I want wherever I want as long as I am not disturbing someone. i mean jeah, the three piece Suit gets more Attantion, but only in positive ways, as well as the for many people weird 80s college jacket, but I love the jacket...

[@SanguivorousRevenant]

Oh damn, I've always wanted to dress like this, the issue is that I'm short and I'm still a rookie at sewing. I'm still determined regardless. Thank you from a fan in America, sir. I love your channel so much. Sincerely, Adrian

[@ubertuber3d]

Honestly I'm a bigger fan of more elaborate eras in menswear personally but I have no problem with more quiet and plain attire too. Darker colors can be cool as long as you don't take them too far. It's really in the late nineteenth century that menswear becomes a tad too drab for me and now it's so bad that guys only wear the same blue-grey suits with no variation, blech!

[@Fichtelslynkahoudn]

The modern suit, for being so plain and ugly, is also so incredibly uncomfortable with the Standard slim fit that all of the Pret-a-porter suits have. I just got a pair of new german army service uniform trousers from my officer father, straight from the official clothing Company that Equips the BW and that many officers buy from, and it's probably the best pair i ever owned because of its more traditional fit. The uniform pants of my own fire Department Service uniform is close but unusable for civilian wear because of the burgundy leg soutache. For everything Else (i'm gonna need a black pair for my marksmans club attire sooner or later, fortunately or unfortunately they are quite lax with dresscode enforcement there so i wear black Jeans with it at the time but it Bugs the hell out of me to do so, but i'm probably having an entire modern frock Coat ensemble made by le hockerty for that purpose) you really have to look for good pants here.

[@bobbirdsong6825]

what really makes modern suits uncomfortable are the materials and generally poor fit. There’s nothing wrong necessarily with slimmer fits, that’s what most were wearing for more formal ensembles from the 18th to the early 20th century. unfortunately most men will not experience a comfortable slim fit suit because most cannot afford a bespoke tailor.

[@habituscraeftig]

Hahaha. I keep showing my husband this beautiful 17th century weskit that I think would look gorgeous on him. It's cut in fairly clean lines, sober color,, embroidered as if quilted (without any batting), and overall comes across as very subdued, by the standards of the time. It also has a line of bows going all around the waist, which - a century earlier, those would have been functional (keep those breeches up), but with the upper garments getting longer, the ribbons on this one are purely vestigial / decorative. I have a million sleeker things to make him, in the meantime (including Regency day dress and Edwardian white tie), but the seductive pull of this particular garment is quite high, and it needs a masculine torso line to look right. Bows or no, it is *not* a feminine garment.

[@VBirchwood]

Wonderful video, Niklas! I love your use of key frames on the still images, bringing a bit of movement to them. It really adds a lot of visual interest. It's great to see you posting again.

[@Vintagebursche]

Thank you! And yet there is still so much to improve.

[@VBirchwood]

@@Vintagebursche I think you're doing great!

[@digitaldgirl4459]

Your style is breathtaking. I love the green vest and the white cravat so much. I miss men dressing beautifully. Thank you for being the right kind of eye candy.

[@dorteweber3682]

i love the flamboyance and exuberance of the 18th century in men's wear. The embroidery, the plum coloured velvet, the red silks.....lay it on. But for sheer elegance, the understated look rules. However, as you said, the fit comes first.

[@MacMichael267]

'You don't want the muggles to spot' you made my day!😂 Much truth in it though!

[@Boselaphus]

HOLY!! You are making a tailcoat? I am very much hyped for that, I always wanted those. If lucky enough have a top hat, it would look proportionate and amazing from behind.

[@pamelatarajcak5634]

You know the movie Beau Brummel: That Charming Man? Your dramatic intro always reminds me of the beginning of the movie.

[@purpleicicles]

Thanks for the mini history lesson! I very much look forward to seeing the completed look, especially the coat! The waistcoat you wore for the video is stunning as well - dark greens are so flattering for you. 💯

[@curiouslywoven9737]

Was thinking about how informal/lacking even basic formality we have become just the other day when my father told me about his going to a funeral home viewing/wake and his being the only one there in a suit. My mother was also the only woman in “Sunday best” dark dress. It just strange since, at least in the deep US southern states, that lack of formality would have been seen as deeply insulting not so very long ago. Will be interesting to see how everyone dresses at the two family weddings this fall. Personally, I like dressing for occasions - even the sad ones - if for no other reason than to show my respect/affection for those occasions and the people involved.

[@anemedetn]

My mum always assured me that there is no such thing as overdressed. Dressing up is also a matter of showing gratitude for the invitation or respect for the occasion.

[@SingingSealRiana]

Oh my, the waistcoate you are wearing here is gorgeous, the fabric, the color, this amazing lapel and color shape, it is aweinspireing and makes me quite envious if I am being honest ^^

[@joshmiller7777]

So glad to see another upload, brilliant content as always :) Also, the lighting is beautiful, quite atmospheric

[@sleepywombat2751]

Niklas - So great to find a man making historical menswear. I will watch with great interest as you get your men's regency outfit together. I've made a complete calico from the Laughing Moon Men's Regency Pantaloons and am very happy with them but there's no guidance on how high they should go (Navel, ribcage?). Also finding decent bottom weight fabric has been a nightmare and very little guidance esp. on weights (GSM) for wool, linen or even cotton.

[@Eloraurora]

I'd heard the "conspicuous inconspicuousness" description before, but somehow your framing of it made me imagine what would happen if people attempted that philosophy in other style subcultures. What would the Beau Brummel of sneakerheads wear? Or mori kei?

[@tonydeltablues]

Your videos have not come up on my feed for a short while so I revisited you. This is a very good video: It's funny - to be conspicuous inconspicuousness (damn it was easier for you to say this as a non-native speaker than it was for me to spell correctly) is achievable, as you rightly say, today, because of the diversity in the way people dress, borrow/mix and express themselves through clothes. I have ditched the jeans/tee/trainers and wear more classic tweeds/blazers/nice shoes/ties, even fedoras and am very much conspicuous in my locality (Bristol, England); that said, I have become more confident in just wearing a more classic 'English' attire without drawing too much attention from the 'muggles'. Boy there are some 'John Bull' types out there who will zone in on anyone not in tracksuits and sneakers, but I have learned to pacify and move on quickly from any confrontation. Glad to be back. Danke, Tony

[@spaghettiking7312]

In an era of powdered wigs, velvet jackets and buckled shoes, you've got to give it to Brummell to show up in a navy jacket, buckskin trousers and combat boots.

[@aloisguillerm4104]

I dress in the 1890s style with a few vintage n antiques n I obvioulsy stand out. Though back then i would have been understated. It is impossible to dreess like us today n be understated (even when i am in my mourning outfit which is all black n far from fancy) so what ur saying is untrue. it can nolonger apply to a ludictorus society where everybody wheres horrendous Just Do It tshirts. in fact if one wears such a disgraceful shirt; the only thing one is doing is being the representation of the adjective pathetic for so much one is not actually doing anything.

[@tommunyon2874]

I have taken note over the years of being in singing groups that we men all wear essentially the same thing when formal black and white attire is called for. On the other hand there is great variation in the black formals that the women wear, e.g. strapless, long sleeve, short sleeve, lace, and etc. One can see this with symphony orchestras, and similar organizations. Exploring why our culture came to be this way would be very revealing. Female judges that add touches to their robes is yet another aspect of this gender distinction in attire.

[@kents.2866]

Even wearing a collared shirt, nice pants and leather shoes you are "dressed up" in most places in the US.

[@ronrossi8475]

An understatement for a way I have dressed - properly - for many decades. It is "our" style after all. Thank you for this instruction lesson. It is useful.

[@canucknancy4257]

Thank you very much for the tips on dressing well with subtlety. My husband loved your waistcoat.

[@janerkenbrack3373]

Brummell had another obstacle to overcome which made his fashion approach critical. He was not a "to the manor born" gentleman, and yet he wished to be accepted as one. To do this he created the idea of effortless grace. It was said he would spend hours tying his neckwear to make it appear as if he had thrown it around his neck haphazardly, but nonetheless perfectly. This, along with the conspicuous inconspicuous approach you covered above, gave the impression that he wasn't trying to impress, but that he came about it naturally. This made him welcome in a group that would have shunned him had he tried to copy their fashion. I see the Italian concept of Sprezzatura as being born with Beau Brummell. To inadvertently look dashing and elegant, as if you weren't trying to at all, is the essence of a true gentleman. At least in fashion. For those on high perches, like the aristocracy that Brummell was trying to join, every attempt at polished perfection would be seen right through, and expose the upstart as a fraud. Brummell beat that game though his approach, and in so doing changed mens fashion going forward.

[@adamkun5524]

I kind of know that I would stand out. I do not flinch any more. In this age even having a shirt with a jacket and a chino would be super dressed up. Add a tie and one is too formal most of the time. But I love suits.

[@kraakar]

To hell with Beau Brummelness... flamboyance now!

[@liamh2001]

I found knitted waistcoats go well with my Harris Tweed jacket and moleskins. Now I can wear a waistcoat to uni!

[@iMac9991]

the muggles cant spot me... until i start pulling everything out from one pocket, then they get a little suspicious

[@davidegiaquinta7217]

I'm speaking Italy

[@strong-life-mentoring]

I love the waistcoat !

[@Ivalid321]

I did not know that diversity now means tshirt, jeans and nikes.

[@crazymelvis5877]

Haha.

[@ketaminepoptarts]

modern outfits are really almost all the same, at most the t shirt and shoes are different colours than other peoples

[@SStupendous]

@@ketaminepoptarts Yeah, true

[@giacomo8875]

@Ivalid321 it means what kind of knot you use on your tie?

[@timboi3399]

MISTER NICKOLAS! how dare you prade your wand around like that on a muggle site I am absolutely disgusted your father is facing an inquiry at work and it's entirely your fault if you put another toe out of line we'll bring you straight home

[@m.maclellan7147]

Oh, that is a GORGEOUS OUTFIT ! Wonderful video !

[@Vintagebursche]

Well, thank you!

[@GEMINI-merari]

That green waistcoat compliment you quite well.

[@SleepyHollowKnight]

I’m doing research for my mid 1700s book, tysm this helped a lot!

[@SpockvsMcCoy]

Perhaps the most outrageous gentleman's fashion era was between about 1660 and 1690.

[@brendancull]

Wonderful video! I would love to see more sewing content on here if you are interested in filming that, of course.

[@SingingSealRiana]

a muggel yeah, that comparison works very well ^^

[@reallyisitjustme]

I can wear shirts all the time but as soon as I add a tie, it draws unwanted attention, all of a sudden, I am "all dressed up"

[@nomadismileseeker6611]

@Vintagebursche can you do a fashion video for hot weather? Like 100° + temps?

[@hrani]

Oh, I didn't notice that the vest was viscose, that's a really nice sheen, body and drape for it. How was it to work on? Is it perhaps still available somewhere online? I order fabrics from Germany all the time and there seems to be a very nice selection if one knows where to look

[@Vintagebursche]

I got it from sartor.cz which is an incredible fabric shop, but they don't have the green brocade anymore. Matching the pattern for the welted pockets was a pain and the fabric frayed easily, but everything else was fine and in the end I think it was worth it.

[@hrani]

@@Vintagebursche It looks fantastic so well worth the effort! I'll have to check them out, thank you very much for the tip. I'm a fan of the look of silk but not the absolutely-no-washing part so I'm always looking for alternatives that are not polyester

[@Feelicitasy]

Beau Brummel was a true dandy. But also a jerk. And remember kids: don't gamble!

[@ginkgobilobatree]

I think "John Bull" refers to a policeman, someone observant but having to go on something feeling "off" rather than knowing what the details were as to why it was off.

[@piccalillipit9211]

*TWEED PLUSS FOURS* socks, suspenders, jacket, cane and flat cap that I wear around town not hitting the mark for inconspicuous I don't believe... :-D

[@lindagates9150]

It seemed forever since I last saw you ! but certainly worth the wait.🖖🖖🖖👍👍👍🌟🌟🌟🌟🙋🏼‍♀️💝

[@peaceraybob]

Your collar certainly needs more starch. I do like the knot to your stock, though.

[@davidcattin7006]

Have you ever gone to Berghain? What did you wear? Thanks.

[@krunoslavkovacec1842]

I lile your Zack Pinsent style outfit. Very cool.

[@josephmillraney1061]

You look absolutely handsome in the outfit that you showed in the video. Marvelous!

[@marschall3440]

Gold im Band, Bux erkannt 😉

[@Morticia147]

"Don't let the Muggles spot you" - You made my day..... :O)))))

[@oskarek57]

People will never completely embrace individuality, because people are in general just sheep and what is more, envious. I also like to wear formal clithing, but it is difficult in most settings nowadays, because people are just degraded mentally, not civil and not educated in culture. If I wear a suit just like that, there is a quite big chance, that somebody will mock me or give me bad looks for being different, so embracing individuality just doesn´t exist and never will. To be dressed up nowadays without any difficulty, you just have to find like minded people and have private parties or private evenings at restaurants without strangers or find 3 star luxury restaurants, where it might work better, but individuality doesn´t work for certain in public. People would have to be smarter and not envious. Then it would work.

[@ismulniir]

My exact thoughts

[@clayjeffries3901]

Keep the good videos coming

[@chantelmcskimming6633]

Delightful 🙂

[@jochemkoot5808]

Mein favorites intro auf youtube Eine kreative Fantasie über "inferno" aus Vivaldis vier Jahreszeiten

[@PlyzmP]

Great Video!

[@MrStonee09]

3:09 welcher Bund?

[@xaviwenger976]

Sehr gut, wie immer.

[@thelimelightcollective8431]

What pattern did you use for that waistcoat? I've been wanting to make one like that out of a striped cotton I have.

[@artoftheroses]

what pattern did you use for that waistcoat?

[@MelzoA.]

Yeah, but Brummell was not the only one. It was a contra movement to the (mostly) french aristocrats. In england they were always a little more minimalistic. Brummell was just the most famous of the dandies, because we like to put a face on it.

[@theclown3967]

Insightful comment: Once everybody is indiviually styled, really nobody is.

[@agustinsilvalozina8674]

@Vintagebursche What do you wear when nobody wears a suit?

[@adamkun5524]

Probably an odd jacket and trousers :)

[@vahal7218]

4:20 me who is the only one to wear 3 piece suits every day in a 2500 persone school : 👁👄👁

[@TealCheetah]

A new vid!

[@tea_empire]

First one great video

[@elliott7630]

No! Me, me, me! You’re not my friend anymore.

[@donvenanciodebernas]

its not boring

[@nathanswartz9147]

Never let the muggles get you down :)

[@SingingSealRiana]

Basicly got the same problem as you with it. I like the mentality and follow it to a certain degree, but for my style being so historicly I do not actualy achive the same impression. Instead of bold prints and colors, I got a focus an high quality natural fiber fabrics and woven in strucktur. A good fit instead of eyecatching bling and bright colors, a nice sillhouette instead of flashing clevage . . . but in the end it is that exact thing that makes me stick out. Being covered, wearing woolfabrics, actualy fitting cloths it is not commen anymore. It is exected to wear lipstick, to show of cleavage, to grab attention with bright colors but that just is not me. So I wear my technicly more subdue but sticking out style despite my mother calling it nuns wear ^^ I do love the elegance of long skirts, the charm of overknee stokings that need to be tied, nice leather shoes, all the ways buttoned up garments, the clear a corset creats, waistcoats, little embroidered details . . .

[@gottfriedosterbach3907]

Beau was a rooster who wished he could be a peacock. He brilliantly conned the peacocks into wanting to be roosters so then he could play the role of peacock despite still appearing an immaculate rooster. Seriously though, Beau clearly was more than a bit of a narcissist and loved being the center of attention. If he was upper class he would have likely been the gaudiest around, but being of humble origins and limited means his strategy of simple elegance which he could afford played to his strengths and kept him from being dismissed because of appearance. This let him achieve his goals of being a somebody in a gilded world. I don't mean this to take away from him, but this is my generalized opinion based on my knowledge of his history and displayed behaviors. I believe his sense of style was a largely product of his ambition.

[@Delta040301]

Sorry, but I can not lower myself to wearing jeans. Awfully uncomfortable things.

[@lucasdeconninck1232]

So I finally have a name to hate for the utmost bore of today's men's formal clothing.

[@DutchPlanDerLinde]

early xix century fashion is my fav, the bowties and shirts seem to be just flowing. Later things got so stiff and simple

[@benman1577]

I thought Beau Brummell was that comedian who makes songs??

[@jlewwis1995]

No, that's bo burnham

[@TedEhioghae]

Women are worse, they dress half-naked now.

[@tomasparra720]

Great job with that shirt, I like it! 😅😅 you have talent for sewing!