Why I recommend 0.3 Nits as the black point in BenQ Palette Master Element SW display Calibration!

Let's revisit a conversation about which black point to choose in BenQ Palette Master Element software when hardware calibrating SW Displays. Find out how I got 0.3 nits as the optimal black point for most calibration devices. And see a visual examples of why I recommend this value compared to other options.
Getting a lower contrast and relatively less black on calibration can be a benefit to anyone who uses an inkjet printer and print on matte paper.
0.3 Nits works well for
X-Rite i1Display Pro - Calibrite ColorChecker Display Pro
X-Rite i1Display Pro Plus - Calibrite ColorChecker Display Plus
X-Rite i1Studio - Calibrite ColorChecker Studio
All other X-Rite color spectrophotometer devices such as i1Pro 3, i1Pro3 Plus and many more
Spyder X
If you have Spyder 4 or 5 use 0.5 nits instead.
Link to download the charts drive.google.com/file/d/13bMG...
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Director of Photography & Filming by
Art Suwansang
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#BenQ #PaletteMasterElement #Calibrite

[@gregnoelken7270]

Thanks for taking the time to evaluate the different nit values. Much appreciated.

[@ArtIsRight]

Glad it was helpful!

[@stephenrowson4828]

I'm upgrading from an old Eizo Color Edge monitor to the BenQ SW270C. Your videos are an excellent resource for Monitor calibration. Thanks again!

[@ArtIsRight]

Thank you!

[@davidromano2421]

I've been using your 0.3 nit recommended value for several months now and agree it's a good target. Yes, the measured value is never spot on, probably limited by measurement repeatability and adjustment quantization errors. The 0.3 nit works good for me when I am editing for online display of my photos which tend to have a lot of deep shadow detail, and also it's good when proofing before printing on high dmax baryta papers giving a very truthful representation of the print. Very happy with it. FWIW, I set my brightness to 70 cd rather than 80 cd for prints, and 100 cd for online display. For lower dmax matte papers, I set the black point to 0.7 or 0.8 nits, taking advantage of the multiple calibration slots on the SW270C.

[@ArtIsRight]

That is a great use of the calibration slots! Right on!

[@memtsung]

Thank you so much!! so good !!

[@ArtIsRight]

Thank you!

[@Daniel18X]

Thanks for amazing videos. Let´s talk about the the color space of the black chart for evaluating the contrast of the low end. Im running a SW320 and latest PMA with a i1 Display. Opening up your Black Chart with its sRGB Profile in latest Photoshop I can clearly see difference between 0 and 1 even with a 0.2 nits calibration (5400K/Native/L120/G22/02nits/v4/matrix/large) on MacOs 10.15.7. But in my workflow I edit in ProfotoRGB and the same Black Chart in ProfotoRGB (open without color management and then assign ProfotoRGB to remain the RGB-values) shows a difference first at 3. To make this even more complicated I opened the the Black Chart as sRGB and then converted it to ProfotoRGB (tried both Relative and Absolute) and I can could still see difference from number 1 patch. But when I measured patch 1 it gave me the values 3,3,3 after converting from sRGB to ProfotoRGB. So my bottom line questions is.... If I use a ProfotoRGB workflow should I use a Black Chart made with the corresponding color space to evaluate my nits levels?

[@Daniel18X]

And should I consider Gamma L* instead of 2.2 for my Profoto RGB workflow when I calibrat ? If I remember correctly sRGB has a G 2.2 response curve and ProfotoRGB using L*

[@ArtIsRight]

Don't over thinking this. If you are going to use the black chart use it as is. You can convert the profile but that won't work well and you should not assigned profile because that will override everything and it will fail. I mean you can but not advised. The black chart can be used as is because of this kzbin.info/www/bejne/faaUn6R7m52psMk you are seeing the color space that the black chart is tagged at, no need to covert, scaling will scale the same way regardless of color space. If you work in a larger color space it does not matter. The point is that the black will scale. This chat should not be used as a NIT level evaluation, it is not designed for that. You can but again not advised. You can use ProPhoto RGB workflow but most displays are only able to do 70-80% of it. Can you use it yes will you see all of the colors, no. As far as gamma you can certainly use L* but since LCD are calibrated from the factory at 2.2 and even though you have an adjustable LUT. 2.2 is a good number to stick to since most programs use 2.2 as the gamma and not L*.

[@NeilSnapePhotography]

Glad you take so much time testing and retesting. Accuracy of the device on black photons counting is hmmm, questionable. Since your previous recommendation, I tested around 0.30 nits but as you did came to the conclusion that 0.30 indeed is a pretty sure thing.

[@ArtIsRight]

Thank you Neil!

[@ultraprimez]

Great video as alway 👍. I pray and hope for the pandemic situation to slow down and everything come back to normal. In my place we only have 4 or 5 active cases. Most are from daily flights. Get vaccinated and stay safe. Hope product price drop after pandemic situation slowly ends around the globe.🙏

[@ArtIsRight]

:D

[@wealthyhobo2576]

I've been using absolute zero for my sRGB calibrations, but due to noticing some issues with the dark tones, I'm going to try 0.3. Judging by this video, that's the problem, because there isn't enough gradation between the dark values, so when previewing on other devices, iOS/iPhone for example, I noticed it looks a bit more washed out. 0.3 is likely to solve that issue for when I'm editing my graphics. Thank you as always! Cheers

[@ArtIsRight]

:)

[@aaronperelmuter8433]

Actually, the issue isn’t one of not having enough graduations at these low levels, it’s a problem with the software and screen. My Eizo screens have been able to easily achieve a bp of 0.3 for at least the past 10 years or so now, since I’ve been using an i1d3 for measurements. I generally obtain a measured bp of anywhere from about 0.27cdm to 0.31cdm. Benq screens have more than enough graduations to be able to hit the bp accurately. Remember, these screens are using 10bit panels and 14bit internal LUT, so that provides more than enough graduation levels to be accurate. The real issue is with the sw/hw combination with the Benq screens because other brands have no problems achieving such settings. Both Eizo and NEC Spectraview screens which I’ve used have been able to do so, with identical panel and LUT specs. Has the level of accuracy improved at all in the time since you wrote your comment?

[@robvanesch273]

Thank you for the extensive testing and explanation! Does this advice for 0.3 replace the previous one when you recommended 0.1?

[@ArtIsRight]

Absolutely, that was a quick first go. All of my PME setting guide have been updated to 0.3

[@amanaskarizad]

your contents are gold! what black point do you suggest for spider X?

[@ArtIsRight]

0.3

[@miguelangelcalderon3315]

Hi Art! thank you for your recommendations and tutorials. Am I right in assuming that it's easier to visually tell the difference between the first three values on Adobe RGB rather than Rec709? I've calibrated my SW240 following your guidelines, and on Rec709 I can barely tell the difference between 2 and the background, while on Adobe RGB (with Panel native profile as you recommended), it's easier see it. Maybe it has to be with the way the Rec709 color space works? Just trying to see if the results I'm getting fall into what's expected. Cheers from Spain

[@ArtIsRight]

Color gamut has no barring this, the tonal speed should be similar on both gamut that is why we adjust the black point. What is your calibrator, gamma and black point value that you are using?

[@miguelangelcalderon3315]

@@ArtIsRight Thanks for your reply. I'm using an xRite i1Display Plus, Gamma 2.4 and Black point 0.3 as per your suggestions. I've done it again but I get similar results... Would you advise trying a lower black point?

[@ArtIsRight]

So if you want to scale REC 709 for better black distribution then go with a higher black value, all of these are suggestions :) Try 0.4 and/or 0.5 and see where that takes you.

[@ComicBeeGt]

Hi! First of all I want to thank you for all the info you share and how to work better with our monitors 😊 Now, I just bought a BenQ SW240 that says that it is already calibrated from factory but I would like to know if It is necessary to re-calibrate my monitor. Thanks a lot for your response 😃

[@ArtIsRight]

Yes you should and here are 3 videos that will explain why kzbin.info/www/bejne/n3zJp5WYirB0bbc kzbin.info/www/bejne/f6HYkplrrq2lpck kzbin.info/www/bejne/eZjSY6Ntn6tmpJI

[@ComicBeeGt]

@@ArtIsRight Thank you so much! ❤️

[@ArtIsRight]

:)

[@JackDaniels-yp3ef]

Hi Art - question for you. If I set the blackpoint to 0.3 for instance and then finish calibrating and validating the report never shows the Blackpoint to be anywhere near .3. I get something like .19 or similiar. I actually get closer to 0.3 if I just leave it at absolute. Why is this? Using Palette Master 1.3.17 on M1 Mac with Display Pro on a SW270C.

[@ArtIsRight]

It will never be exact that is normal. That is why I recommend 0.3 as a good mediant. As far as absolute black even getting 0.3 did you check the black scaling? It may crush black tones, the adjustments between the 2 are different.

[@tkphotosz]

Hi Art. Thank you for another informative video. Do I need to recalibrate my SW240 monitor after I installed the hood?

[@ArtIsRight]

No need

[@tkphotosz]

@@ArtIsRight Alright! Thank you.

[@ArtIsRight]

👍🏼

[@Conrado77]

For viewing blu-ray content, do you also recommend using black at 0.3? I ask because for these purpose, panels with VA technology are usually recommended because of their deep blacks of up to 0.03 at 120 nits (it is the case of my Asus XG32VC vith VA panel). If I calibrate black at 0.3 on my new BenQ SW270C, won't the blacks on a blu-ray disc look gray? Thank you very much.

[@ArtIsRight]

I would test this out, also your try absolute black as well.

[@Conrado77]

@@ArtIsRight Ok, thanks

[@martinprothero610]

Art, I just watched Ben Hurley, a well known portrait photographer, setting up his monitor with a rep from Ben-Q. The rep offered some different suggestions to you, so I'm interested to ask your opinion. Crucially he suggests setting the D65 luminance for digital work only and to create a second calibration using D50 for assessing work to print. This would of course change the relative luminance of the display and affect choosing the nits value critically. He suggests 140 or an absolute lowest of 120 if you work in a very low light environment, so your setting of 80 would also seem to conflict with this. I have no judgment or experience as I have only just bought my SW270C and am about to calibrate it, hence seeking advice on YT and your excellent channel.

[@ArtIsRight]

I recommend D65 though out and even in printing. You can do D50 for printing but there's a big difference between standard recommendation vs real world practice. What they are doing with the BenQ Rep is by the book industry standard which can be used but is not necessary. Also I work closely with BenQ on so many aspect so I am aware of this. The nit suggestion again is one that people can throw out but there's a range and my range what I know to work for the past 2 decades of doing this 80-120 nits, if you do D50 or D55 then the range is 80-160 nits depending largely on your viewing environment. It is easy to throw all of these values by the book out but it does not accommodate for your setup and environment and in some sense it is meaningless if you can get consistence result from it. Let me put it this way, in practical use, what I am recommending here is agreed up by many color engineers and scientist including other expert in the field. But what you should do is test to see what is the best setup that work for your needs and environment. I would recommend that you start with my practical real world setup before going by the standard text book answers that others shared.

[@martinprothero610]

@@ArtIsRight Thank you for for you considered reply Art. I appreciate having access to expert opinions.

[@ArtIsRight]

👍🏼

[@superidyt]

HI. I have some basics questions about calibration. 1) I'm using a SW2700PT with MacMini and my first calibration using Spyder 5 results in low bright profile. 2) In System Preferences - Display - Colors I have the new profile with big name and an old "BenQ SW2700". So, which one I have to select in System Preferences and why my calibration results in a low bright config? I can't change the Brigthness on Benq config using the new calibration profile. Thank you.

[@ArtIsRight]

Choose the profile with the big name. What OS and PME version are you using? Brightness needs to be set from PME.

[@superidyt]

@@ArtIsRight I'm photographer and I choose Adobe RGB preset in PME. My Mac is running BigSur 11.5.1 (M1 processor) + PME 1.3.16 + SW2700PT Oct 2019. I set Primary RGB to "Panel Native" and Luminance to "100". Thank you for reply!

[@ArtIsRight]

Go back to 1.3.15.

[@tdg9281]

Hi Art, I was wondering how BenQ could achieve such a clear distinction between the 0 and the 1 while having its black point at 0.1 nits ? Does the included profile on my SW2700PT artificially lowers the contrast ? Does this mean that the included AdobeRGB profile is inaccurate ? Is there a way to get the same result as the included profile while having an accurate contrast ? Thanks a lot.

[@ArtIsRight]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/bYSUZ4einNJqq7M

[@LizWeeksPhotography]

I have a new SW240 monitor that i've just calibrated using PME V1.3.19 and Spyder x. I used 0.3 nits value but the report comes out as 0.9. Should I accept this or try a different nit value?

[@ArtIsRight]

yes, I would check the black chart. If it looks good to you then go with it. If not then try another calibration, perhaps absolute black.

[@softiczlatan]

Hi Art, I am using 0.3 nits value but when looking at the black chart it shows total black from 0-2 and there is a tiny difference at 3...The more noticable difference starts at 4. Is this ok or should I strive for better result and what are my options? I am using Benq SW270C with my custom built PC, connected through DisplayPort and X-rite i1 Display Pro. I have followed your recommendations regarding calibration. Thanks in advance and thanks for your awesome work! Greetings from Sweden!

[@ArtIsRight]

It really depends on what you do, but I would say this is ok. You can try to calibrate again the result will slightly change. That is always an option but you should be ok here.

[@softiczlatan]

@@ArtIsRight Mostly working with images for homepages, social media content etc Thanks again for your answer, it's very helpful 🙏

[@ArtIsRight]

👍🏼

[@darrengordon3616]

Hi Art, thank you for your amazing info as always. I have a Mac mini m1 and a Benq SW270C and output via blackmagic ultrastudio monitor 3G after calibrating my black point is way darker than my QuickTime exports from Davinci resolve. I have the correct settings in resolve so it’s definitely the calibration of the monitor that the issue. Can you help me?

[@ArtIsRight]

I need more info about the setup, calibration settings, etc, I would dm me

[@darrengordon3616]

@@ArtIsRight I think I have figured it out based on your one of your other videos regarding trouble shooting calibration. Which is much appreciated . You are a saint for sharing so much knowledge. Only thing now is my max delta is failing. Is this an issue and if so any tips. Please let me know if you any more info to diagnose? Thanks in advance 😄

[@ArtIsRight]

yes dm me, more diagnostic is needed.

[@prateekbhanushali1956]

Hi. What would you recommend the luminance value for DCIP3 Cinema deliveries? Keeping it on 100cd with a 0.3 Black level makes the shadows too muddy. Also. the difference between 0.2 to 0.3 is too vast. My model is SW240 and I am using SpyderX Pro.

[@ArtIsRight]

your calibration device does not help either. Spyder sensor are not good in shadows. Also because you have the SW240, I would try Palette Master Ultimate instead.

[@AlanBennettphotography]

Hi, should I be using 0.3 or 0.5 nits when calibrating with a SpyderX Pro? I'm just not sure as it looks very much like the Spyder 5.

[@AlanBennettphotography]

Sorry, you just told me on the video @ 4:32 🙂

[@ArtIsRight]

😀

[@FransDrent]

With my Benq SW270C I notice some strange things. I have a picture with a gradient from black to light gray. When I open it with the calibrated setting (Native, D65, L100, nits 0.5 [I use a Spyder 5 and 0.3 is not great]) then in the darker areas the pixels will change after about 15 seconds! They go from dark to a little brighter (dark gray). So, opening the picture looks ok at first, but after 15 seconds it pixelates in the darker areas. When I use the standard Adobe RGB setting (or any other for that matter) the picture stays the same. Also with the calibrated setting I notice in some gray areas a slight red color cast. I am completely lost, how can the picture change after opening? For the color cast I got an answer from Art (other video of him) that the Calibrate Display Colorchecker Pro would be a better choice (and I expect less color cast). However, every calibration I do with the Spyder 5 gives: passed with great figures (less than delta 2). Help would be appreciated.

[@ArtIsRight]

Mac or PC, what program, what cable used to link up display to computer?

[@FransDrent]

I tried different ones: hdmi, display and usb-c. Currently I use the usb-c. I have the new MacBook Pro M1Max. But the problem with the pixelation existed with my old iMac too. Is Monterey causing all kinds of problems? I also have the issue of memory leak. After every three edits in LR I have to restart the application. In FCP I have problems with finding the external monitor as AV/output sometimes and the HDR gives washed out colors. I get the impression that the pixelation problem has to do with the ‘bad’ calibration with the Spyder 5, because using a standard hardware calibrated setting works fine, though the figures of the delta E are ok. Or could PME give a problem, I’ve used version .15 before and now .16. Both the same problem. I am searching for a friend who uses the Calibrite Pro to see if things are getting better. The other problems have to do with Monterey and do not relate to the problems with calibration.

[@ArtIsRight]

Spyder 5 sensor is old and have issues calibrating for good result. You might want to consider upgrading to ColorChecker Display Pro or Plus. I can tell you that these device from Calibrite are much better for just a lot of testing.

[@soundp7521]

Hi Art!!, when calibrating with spyder 5 pro in rec 709 and black point at 0.5 the image is too washed out, even at 0.3, it is very difficult for me to do color grading with such a washed out image, I use a decklink card and davinci resolve, it will be some incorrect configuration within does davinci solve?

[@ArtIsRight]

It could be incorrect resolve setting, are you calibrating the display first and bypassing the decklink when you are calibrating the display? If so I would get it so that everything looks good when you are not using the Decklink first. That should be a good place to start with trouble shooting.

[@soundp7521]

@@ArtIsRight I work on an imac and my decklink connects via usbc, when I do the calibration I connect the monitor directly to the imac using the usbc cable, once calibrated I disconnect the usbc cable and connect the decklink ultrastudio 3g to the mac and at the output I connect a via HDMI cable to the benq sw, is that correct?

[@ArtIsRight]

Yes that is correct

[@juergenhuegle]

Thanks for that great video again. Very helpful content as always! Thanks for all your effort. Maybe I can also ask a more general question: since I installed a new mainboard in my PC, I only get an empty white window when i start Palette Master Element. I already tried different USB ports for the monitor USB connection and also uninstalled and reinstalled the monitor driver and Palette Master Element. Nothing helped. Has anyone else also experienced this "white empty window" issue with Palette Master Element?

[@ArtIsRight]

This seems like a software issue, more than anything else. Was the OS clean installed?

[@juergenhuegle]

@@ArtIsRight No, OS was not installed again after the mainboard switch. I was so happy that everything worked so perfect without any reinstallation at first - except Palette Master Element. I will try with a clean installation now.

[@juergenhuegle]

I found the issue. The problem seems that i have two displays attached to my PC. One is an LG 32inch connected via HDMI and the other is the Benq SW240 connected via Display Port. I use the LG as my windows main display and the SW240 as my proofing monitor. The problem seems to be that the Benq is not my "windows main display/desktop". As soon as I change the Benq to be may windows main display, Palette Master Element opens as expected and works just fine.

[@ArtIsRight]

Awesome!

[@kyc6512]

Hi, Art I was trying to calibrate my sw271c with the new calibrate plus model and their software. However, when I set my custom black point to .3, the result wouldn't come out as I want (it comes out as .6) what can I do in this case? my monitor is connected to the new m1x macbook btw

[@ArtIsRight]

I would try absolute black or vary the value at .1 and .2 and see what happens. Also use 1.3.15 if you can, more stable.

[@kyc6512]

@@ArtIsRight I tried and it says the black point has to be between 0.3 to 10 (and there's no option for absolute black) My monitor is on Display P3 mode. Would this be a problem?

[@ArtIsRight]

In advanced mode there's an option for absolute black. But because these are IPS LED Backlight it will never be zero. But if you can get .3 it will be fine. And you are calibrating it with Display P3 RGB primary is this correct?

[@kyc6512]

@@ArtIsRight I think so It is set to gamma=sRGB color gamma=DCI-P3

[@kyc6512]

@@ArtIsRight I am using ccprofiler. The option I chose in advanced mode is white LED, luminance 120, gamma standard. For the contrast ratio, there are 6 options, but whatever I try, it's impossible for me o get a black level that is close to 0.3

[@lindaweaver7837]

I currently use a nec multisync pa 241 and have for about 10 years. It has never failed me, my photography or fine art and editing. Unfortunately, I must change due to aging monitor. It's a tough choice because being single and retired, with sound mind, the monitor I desire is just not in my budget. I did find a new refurb 270 but I'm also looking at the 240. color is critical to me! I must have proper color for what I do. Reviews seem to validate the 240 will give me what I need. I certainly hope so after working on such a fine monitor. I don't know. Now. The question, When I purchase the 240, which version of software shall I use? This seems to be confusing. Please advise. I will use calibrate plus but the version software is questionable. I just don't want to spend all my time determining what version of software to use. With my nec, It has always been perfect. I have watched many of your videos and I feel I can trust your knowledge unlike so many others on you tube. You are very good, you know color and I admire the knowledge. Thank you for that. A new furbished has a good price but does make me a little nervous. But, I could get an extended warranty. I am use to working on a 24 inch so if the 240 has the specs it claims to have, it could make me happy. Thank you for your great videos!

[@ArtIsRight]

It is not confusing really, just used the latest software. These are guides and if you didn't watch any of them, you would use the latest version. Referb is fine, I would get it and test it right away. If it works you are good, if not then you can always return it. What I would not do it buy it and have it sitting in the box for sometime before you open it or test it, but that does not sound like what you will you. And if you have any questions you can always reach out to me.

[@lindaweaver7837]

@@ArtIsRight - I purchase the 24". So you are recommending the newest software? This is not what you recommended in the last video I watched. I just want to confirm to use and download the latest version? correct? No the most stable, 1.3.10 Thanks your prompt reply. I commend you on your quick customer service.

[@ArtIsRight]

We have been way pass 1.3.10 already. I would use .17 or .18

[@MikkotormanenFiPhoto]

Hi Art! I have weird issue when using gamma 2,2 (or 2,4 with DaVinci). Black chart showing 0-9 is really total black. Cannot see difference between 0 and 9. I try several different calibration scenarios setup and now finally found trick how I can see gradient in black chart upper line. -> need to calibrate gamma sRGB! Only using gamma sRGB works. What do you think abot this? Could it be bug? Or issue with iProfiler, Mac, OS, SW271? Other Specs: D65, panel native, luminance 90, black point 0,3, matrix, v2. SW271, iProfiler PME 1.3.15. Big Sur 11.6. MacBook Pro 16” 2019, 2,4 Ghz 8ccore i9, 64gb, AMD Radeon Pro 5600M 8gb

[@ArtIsRight]

You have an i1Display Pro? And using sRGB gamma curved is something that I am aware of but it is one of those use it if you have a reason to. If it works then great. I don't think this is a bug with 1.3.15 I have extensively test this. There are probably some variable that cause this to be the case.

[@MikkotormanenFiPhoto]

@@ArtIsRight Yes, sorry, I have i1Display Pro. Purchased 2016. Okay, thanks, I will use sRGB gamma curve. In i1Profiler + MacBook's own display is same problem with 2,2 gamma --> 0 to 9 is totally black. Is there possibility that i1Display Pro is broken? Too old? I can buy new one, but I not sure it solve "problem" :)

[@ArtIsRight]

These devices rarely go bad. What year is your laptop? I would do A/B testing with another computer using G2.2 setting and see if the result is still the same. If it is then it is the calibrator if not then it could be the GPU on your Mac. I would highly advise doing this test before going through any other purchase. I have an i1Display Pro that is more than 10 yr old and it still works fine.

[@MikkotormanenFiPhoto]

@@ArtIsRight Yes I think that 2016 purchased is not so old. Laptop is MPB 16” 2019. GPU AMD Radeon 5600M. I need to do some testing with other computer. Thanks!

[@ArtIsRight]

Well it might not be but it is at least 5 years old now and Apple laptop GPU are known / notorious for defects because of the excessive heat on the system. So this is why testing would help give us a more definitive answer.

[@bhaskarbhattacharyya9357]

Hi, I brought benq sw240 since late june. I know it has auto calibration. I used it for photo editing & graphic design. Also video editing. I dont have any issues until Today I received the message from monitor said : " your monitor need to be calibrated. " Can you tell me what's going on? Should I buy calibration tool like spyder X or download software from benq website which is made for benq sw series to solve this issue.

[@ArtIsRight]

It does not have auto calibration, you have to use a calibration device with PME to calibrate it. To answer your question you need both the device and BenQ software, I recommend getting X-Rite / Calibrite devices instead of Spyder. Also watch this for the calibration reminder. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Z3SQlImdpM2Frc0

[@bhaskarbhattacharyya9357]

@@ArtIsRight sir, I got it. I will go n get x-rite but is this necessary to calibrate it once in every 6 months to check it properly n improve color workflow? Or keep it like that... And I got answer to fix it by disable calibration reminder. Thank you, sir

[@ArtIsRight]

You can do it every 6 months. Some do it weekly or every 2 weeks. Once you start to do it, you'll notice that it does not change much between calibration, if at all.

[@putubing]

Hi Art i have found a color shift with lightroom do you have an email where i can discuss this problem

[@ArtIsRight]

my email is on the about section of my KZbin video.

[@lionaudiophile]

Hi, I ordered BenQ sw270c this time and am waiting. And I've been using Displaycal before, and it's my first time using a monitor with hardware calibration. =) I have a few questions. I'd appreciate it if you could reply when you have time.. Even in your video, some people say the bug has been fixed(about Profiling issue, sRGB or AdobeRGB thjing). I want to believe that it has been fixed, and I will test it when the monitor comes. And it would be great if it works properly. However, many SNS and forums still say that there are bugs, and only the calibration needs to be carried out at PME and the profiling needs to be carried out at DisplayCal for accurate use. What should I do? And One more thing.. I understand that controlling ambient light and securing the brightness of the working space is the most important thing. However, I can't control the light source of day and night while moving my studio this time. I used to do calibration based on D65, 120cd, but now we need to do calibration for day and night separately. Do you have any advice on this? (The conditions of my room are... When Daytime, here are blinds, the light sunlight surrounds the room.The wallpaper is light gray, close to white, and the sun shines.Would D50 and 160cd be enough?) (There are no lights except moonlight in the evening. I'm thinking of 120cd for D65.) And really, one last question... I work with sRGB and Adobe RGB in a variety of ways. Then should I set it up in PME with Adobe RGB? Or is Native a better choice? Thank you in advance for your reply.

[@lionaudiophile]

Looking at the brightness of the night time in the new space, I think we should set it at 80 cd at night. It's a space with no lights at all. =(... It's too bright at night when I see it on my current monitor (120cd).

[@ArtIsRight]

"Even in your video, some people say the bug has been fixed(about Profiling issue, sRGB or AdobeRGB thjing). I want to believe that it has been fixed, and I will test it when the monitor comes. And it would be great if it works properly. However, many SNS and forums still say that there are bugs, and only the calibration needs to be carried out at PME and the profiling needs to be carried out at DisplayCal for accurate use. What should I do?" It is fixed, I test this extensively. If you are going to get a display of this caliber and use DisplayCal then I don't know what to say or advise. There are many so called experts, to which many of them are going down the same rabbit hole as others. Test it for yourself, don't take my word for it, but you should know that I spend hours and day testing every version of PME on various computers with a variety of combinations between displays, calibration devices. There's really no need to do calibration for day and night. Just have block out curtains, either way your display should not change brightness or color as the condition change. That is overthinking by so many people that in the end does not make a significant different but more of a detriment to ones overall workflow. What you suggest changing your display luminance will cause some issues with the way how your images look. I would go with 80 (based on your last comment) and call it the day. Just do native, here's why kzbin.info/www/bejne/faaUn6R7m52psMk & this kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5DToIePfrmXhLM

[@lionaudiophile]

​@@ArtIsRight Thank you very much for your quick, kind and detailed response! I also watched all the videos on your link. It was very helpful. =) I'll trust you and use PME as it is to bring out BenQ's potential. However, there is one thing that is slightly confusing after watching the video. I saw in the your video that each color station is demonstrated using soft proof after setting it to native. So why did BenQ pre-insert Adobe RGB, dci-p3, and sRGB modes? I'm sorry it sounds like a really stupid question.... However, I didn't know much about CMS because I don't print and only retouch according to the client's request. That's why reason i'm asking.. =( Or can I think of BenQ's Adobe RGB, sRGB, and Dci-p3 modes as limiting color range in advance, such as Photoshop's Softproof? Because I don't print myself anyway, I just need to retouch the format of the picture that the client sends me (sRGB, Adobe RGB). I'm a little confused whether it's right for me to use soft proof after setting it as native or alternating between two color stations in PME. =( When you're not busy, I'd really appreciate it if you could answer this stupid question. +) I can't touch the interior space anymore. Because it is an uncontrollable environment, it is necessary to set it to 80 cd in the evening, and to rely on blinds only during the day and increase the brightness of the monitor. =(

[@ArtIsRight]

"So why did BenQ pre-insert Adobe RGB, dci-p3, and sRGB modes?" These are pre calibrated reference mode that comes from the factory. Because they can't guarantee that everyone will custom calibrate the display, this is the reason why these mode are included for a quick and rough detail for gamut response. Regarding CMS it is good to know printing or not but most of the time these learning come out of a necessity rather than a want, either of which is ok. Also need to to apologize about the question. Happy to answer them. In a way yes they are design for soft proofing but not accurate nor precise like a custom calibration. If you ask me soft proofing is not even necessary. CMM takes care of all of that, just choose the right color mode / gamut to tag your file.

[@lionaudiophile]

@@ArtIsRight =( i tried Calibration use PME, And install that. But when i try run, not response. Not starting. I did reinstall and other version intall try. but. Whenever I click the application to open it, I just get a blue loading circle for a second, then nothing actually happens. What i have to do..? Window10 21H1, and clean pc(few weeks ago, Reinstall Window) +) when i check event viewer, Exception code is 0xc0000005 and Module path is unknown... weird... i already did sfc/scannow, reinstall PME, driver chcek, usb check, malware check.... What i have to do now.. ? =( =( too bright default to me. I want use HW Calribration, and that's why i'm buying Benq =(

[@Max-Image]

When I calibrate my SW271 in PME with an X-Rite i1Display Pro my D65 value with luminance 100 is around 7000K in the results summary. Any ideas? (aRGB and sRGB in Windows 10 with latest PME)

[@ArtIsRight]

Did you turn these off already? kzbin.info/www/bejne/ioGXoICCo6-Bn6c Also what cable are you using between your display and computer. Is this laptop, desktop, and what GPU and driver are you using?

[@Max-Image]

@@ArtIsRight Yes, these settings were already off I verified it. I’m using an laptop with Intel/Geforce based combo. The monitor is connected with and usb-c (laptop) to dp (monitor) cable. I will try the supplied usb-c to usb-cable today. But I don’t think that will be the problem? I will let you know about the driver versions.

[@Max-Image]

@@ArtIsRight I did some testing today, my problem is the patch size: Slot 1: aRGB, D65, L100, G22, Matrix, v2 - large and medium set is between +500K and +600K off - small set is ok Slot 2: sRGB, D65, L100, G22, Matrix, v2 - large and medium set is between +500K and +600K off - small set is ok Connected with USB-C to USB-C cable.

[@Max-Image]

@@ArtIsRight New update: The default aRGB and sRGB setting with L120 works fine with the large patch setting and v2. So the problem is L100 in combination with medium and large.

[@ArtIsRight]

I'll test this a verify if it is a bug, interesting. Thank you for the update

[@bose80085]

Can I set the brightness value at 80 nits and the black point at 0.3 nits without a calibration device? I am using Benq SW270C.

[@rpvnwnkl]

It’s pointless to have a display like that without a calibrator. You could’ve saved the money in that case and picked another display with the same gamut and/or more resolution for less.

[@NeilSnapePhotography]

You can manually change brightness and black level increments on a custom set up or default. That would be visual not measured values. So yes and no, to use and set measured specified numbers you must do hardware calibrations.

[@bose80085]

@@rpvnwnkl i know, im planning to buy that next month and my old one died from a 10 ft drop.

[@ArtIsRight]

Yes get a calibrator and there are fewer displays out there that offers 99% Adobe RGB, most of them tend to go by the pro hardware calibration route now. And it seems you already have an SW so just get a calibrator.

[@Notmy00000]

what about contrast, do I set it to 100%, 75%, or 50%

[@ArtIsRight]

Leave it at the default value, that is set via the gamma in relation to the brightness and black point settings of the display.

[@Notmy00000]

@@ArtIsRight thanks, this is after the calibration. where do I set the contrast slider before I calibrate 100% ??

[@ArtIsRight]

leave it at the default value, don't touch it. In the calibration 1, 2 or 3 this setting does not matter. PME will overrides it.

[@privatei4772]

Do you still recommend this with the new software?

[@ArtIsRight]

Not so much with PMU. Use absolute black, a better algorithm.

[@privatei4772]

@@ArtIsRight great and thank you!

[@AarronAndersonPhotography]

Even at 0.3 and 0.5, the black levels are still crushed, the tones don’t change it either, it just becomes an even more *faded washed Dark tone but still crushed. What should I do, 80nits and even at 120nits, how ever when I chooses the uncalibrated presets that came with the monitor, the tones and black level are Perfect. Latest version of palette master, i1Display Pro, windows 11

[@ArtIsRight]

what is your calibration device?

[@AarronAndersonPhotography]

@@ArtIsRightthe i1Display Pro

[@ArtIsRight]

color gamut and gamma settings? also what PME version, display model, Mac OS version

[@AarronAndersonPhotography]

@@ArtIsRight Panel Native Gammas 2.2, PME 1.3.18, SW270C, Windows 11

[@AarronAndersonPhotography]

but nevertheless, changing the gamma gamma to srgb and setting the relative black level to 0.3... I was able to achieve 6502K, 0.16 nits black point, at 80nits, with every square (from your download link) perfectly discernable

[@rpvnwnkl]

I found it’s almost pointless to have an exact contrast ratio since the input black point is almost never found by Palette Master. The only way that seems to practically work is having a target luminance, work out an approximate ratio (250:1, 300:1, etc) and then set a black point and hope for the best. It won’t be exact, but it’s usually good enough. The only downside is the uniformity goes out the window with any black point other than absolute zero.

[@ArtIsRight]

Not sure why yours is acting that way. And "pointless" is not the word that I would use to describe this. It is still important to set it at a value that will give you the best black and good tonal range scaling. As far as uniformity I have tested this exclusively using relative option and they have been great. This would ultimately depend on the SW model that you have, if you have the 1st gen uniformity model, SW2700PT, SW240, SW320, SW271 then sure that might somewhat be the case but if you have the SW270C, SW2717C or SW321C, uniformity is throughout and that is not an issue any more. I'll say that SW line is diverse with many models and PME also supports a lot of devices, all of these are variables and making a blanket statement based on one set of display and calibrator is not something that I do. Although I can't test all of the devices, displays and computer combination, I do test a diverse set of grouping for these devices, so I would not take my recommendations lightly. :D

[@rpvnwnkl]

@@ArtIsRight Hi Art, I just meant it’s pointless for an EXACT contrast ratio, for example 288:1, given the calibration never results in black point that matches the set value. Close enough is good enough. I still think there is value in having a relative black point set. I have a SW270C and I calibrated/measured it over and over to understand the behaviour. The panel uniformity is

[@ArtIsRight]

Ah got it, thanks for the clarification. And about uniformity, in general the value that is acceptable for that is ∆e of 5 and not 2 like color measurement. And you are right the variation happens because of the black level change and that is because at the lower value the tones are compressed so much that those variations occur, cursed of the IPS. The issues with absolute 0 is crushed back tone from 0-9, I would not choose absolute because of the better uniformity values over the crushed tones. Color and black tone homogenizes, and with that a ∆e of 5 is or for this. Also uniformity in what area of the screen as well, if the display is divided into a 3 x 3 grid then you can see the region. Uniformity is a good to know but don't sweat about it thing. It is like there's really no perfect straight line or level floor, it just life and margin of error that we live with.

[@lalonkarim1323]

Contrast ratio of 288:1 is ideal for people who print. So if your white point is 120 nits, your black point should be 120/288 = 0.42 nits.

[@NeilSnapePhotography]

If you were printing from a not well color managed workflow. If you are using Adobe products, BPC black point compensation should approximate this in a proofing situation.

[@ArtIsRight]

One more thoughts is that Contrast ratio is dependent and related to the paper type that you are printing on. One generic value would not necessary covers all of the paper surfaces, i.e. glossy or super glossy would need and higher ratio while matte paper would be lower. And this video is not about printing necessary, but more about setting the black point on the SW displays for proper black tonal scaling and to get good 0 black value. They are related concepts but not the point that I am making.

[@aaronperelmuter8433]

There’s are some very good reasons why Benq has set the default bp to 0.5cdm. First, with a 120cdm wp, the contrast ratio is 240:1, whereas with a by of 0.3, it’s an unrealistic (for print output) 400:1. Secondly, no printed black is ever going to be as deep and dark as your screen set to 0.3, when you enable soft proofing in Photoshop, with ink black enabled, there will be VERY noticeable difference, whereas with a bp of 0.5, the difference is nowhere near as obvious. Since you always say that your output is primarily print oriented, I find it very hard to understand why you’d want such a huge contrast range of 400:1 and such a dark bp? I for sure agree that, quite obviously, it looks HEAPS darker but what difference does that make when your printed output will never, EVER appear so dark, like the screen does? Isn’t the whole benefit of hardware calibration supposed to be the soft proofing and the fact that what we see on screen is so very much closer to the final printed output? Moreover, I have an Eizo screen and when I set my bp in the profile calibration settings, my final bp is either exactly or almost exactly what I specified. The fact that you set 0.3cdm and find that your ACTUAL, measured bp is nearly 50% darker, at 0.17cdm is NOT at all how your screen should be operating! One of the massive benefits of hardware calibration, and current day colorimeter technology is that what we specify in the settings is what we actually see and measure after calibration and profiling has been completed. The screen you’re using is purportedly using a 10bit panel, so there should be absolutely NO possible way that it has such terrible control at these low levels that it misses the specified bp by such a huge margin. Not only that the panel is a 10bit panel, but the internal LUT is 14bit, I think? If these figures are to actually be believed, what possible reason can you suggest as to why it has such a terrible control and lack of accuracy at the very darkest levels? I know that this is obviously the most difficult part for both the screen and measuring device to get agreement on due to the extreme lack of signal and photons at these levels, but as I mentioned, my Eizo has zero issues at this level, nor does my near identical i1 display Pro colorimeter. Both can go a fair bit lower than 0.3 and still be accurate, so I would suggest you investigate just why the bp is so far off your calibration setting. Anyway, again, for printed output, I very strongly suggest you try using a bp of 0.5cdm as even at 120cdm wp, 240:1 contrast ratio is asking quite a lot from printed output, even on the absolute glossiest substrate you can find. A far more realistic, actual REAL WORLD bp is 0.6cdm, because with a wp of 120cdm, this provides a contrast ratio of 200:1. Such a ratio is absolutely, undeniably closer to actual, printed output, and on matte papers that figure can go at least down to about 160:1, often times even lower than that. It’s no use having a great, super black and dark bp of 0.3cdm if your printed output isn’t able to get anywhere near that figure and therefore is NOT what you saw on screen while editing your work. Since you have several calibration slots available to you, as do I on my Eizo, set one with your raised bp for printed output and another can be as dark and as black as you like for watching movies or web browsing or whatever. It’s no use and no point having your bp SO very dark when it isn’t beneficial to your photography and printed output. Just my 2c worth.

[@ArtIsRight]

ok