Why modders replace electric guitar bridges...

[@mr.keebler7927]

On a Stratocaster type guitar I switch the string trees that are up on the headstock to rollers. The ones that are always there are nothing but poopy and the string always snags then let’s go with a ding if you’re going to bend the string. So rollers on the headstock is an absolute must!!!

[@honkytonkinson9787]

I’ve got a roller nut on my strat. No string trees, and I’ve heard different opinions on that I have absolutely zero issues with the nut with regards to tuning or the string popping out of the slot

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Very true - often the string trees that come on budget guitars are abysmal!

[@pgman5416]

Just found your channel. This is probably the most informative video on the combined subject of the TOM bridges and the mysterious rattle that isn't fret related.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Thanks!

[@geraldponce8336]

Got a ABR bell brass bridge for the Epi Casino. No slots though. Basically set the E strings, string spacing ruler for the middle strings, tapped the top of the strings with a punch and a fretting hammer to mark em. Diamond slotting files angled back slightly above the tail piece (roll it off a touch to debur any sharp edges), radius gauge and a triangle file to get the V shape. Came out awesome with minimal sitar effect, bell brass sounds great. Use the old strings to slot it. Then change em before intonation. Hammering ruins em.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Sounds brilliant.

[@Brykk]

Can you run the strings the opposite way in the tail piece and use it as a wrapover? That would decrease the breakover angle and allow more room to clear the bridge.

[@dgenerated]

That would work (and many do this), but depending on the tailpiece, it may have a tendency to "lean forward" if it is not a locking one!. You can also simply "raise the tailpiece" and it does the same thing to decrease the break-angle, though some claim this "reduces sustain" and believe the tailpiece has to be Firmly bolted down to the body, but I've never noticed any issues and at the moment have my tailpiece raised as it reduces break-angle and also makes the strings "easier to bend!"..

[@grimora-dg3vq]

Like PRS already does?

[@FlowforthInstruments]

As has been stated - you see this by certain manufacturers and luthiers.

[@madatterguitars2547]

It looks like one of the saddle screws is not flat to the bridge. I would take it off and see if there’s any loose parts. I had one that had a lose clip that held the saddle screw in place. I would also turn the bridge round so the saddle screws are facing the pickups. I know you will have probably adjusted the truss rod, but I would just make sure it’s not loose and causing some rattle. I sometimes cut a V shape at the back of each nut slot. I find that can help with rattle.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Yes, it came installed that way from the manufacturer - the saddles are loose and the bridge is fairly poor quality.

[@davenewton4862]

I've modded most of my guitars but never have upgraded any of my bridges. I'm going to on my Firefly FFLPS though. I was thinking a new bridge would fix its slight fret buzz, you have confirmed this for me - thanks.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

It's a good mod experience to have - good luck.

[@DougHinVA]

bridge and tailpiece work together to make angle and height of strings.... so a saddle may have a burr on it or the treble side of the bridge may need to be raised or even the tailpiece raised to lower the angle of the strings over the saddles, etc. But a single bridge saddle cannot be moved up/down but the bridge side can and the saddle can be smoothed.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Bang on as usual old chap!

[@spikeafrican8797]

I find Fender bridges of any kind generally much easier to deal with. The resonance and buzzing TOM on my Ibanez semi hollow was cured after much head scatching, a roll of Teflon tape, a file and some nut sauce. My gibson nasville TOM took new saddles and and extraordinary amount of messing around fine tuning. When they're good... they're really fukn good!

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Agreed - Fender parts are generally more simple.

[@fepatton]

I think you may have saved my Epiphone ES-175! It’s been buzzing on one string for a long time, and I assumed it was a resonance somewhere, but I can never track it down. I figured if it was the bridge, it wouldn’t just be one string. Going to order a replacement Gotoh now!

[@FlowforthInstruments]

That will probably be the problem - cheap parts sometimes need upgrading.

[@johnnorris1983]

Super glue it first. Or resin &hardener . If that doesn’t work then spend. Intonate heavily before.

[@johnnorris1983]

Once It’s intimated. A drop of super glue/ or glass and hardener.. Cheaper ,less obtrusive ,quick . If that doesn’t solve your problem then replacement.. You were going to have to throw it away anyhow.! Nothing to loose.

[@funfreq9282]

I went with Blue Loctite! one drop on the adjustment screw run it back and forth to make sure it's applied evenly on the threads. Keeps things from vibrating yet still will allow you to adjust intonation when needed!

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Better to replace though...

[@funfreq9282]

@@FlowforthInstruments maybe! Some claim it changes the attack and or the tone. Personally I think that has more to do with the materials and construction practices. I put a Fender LSR nut on one of my trem based guitars and I didn’t notice any difference in the tonal qualities at all.

[@josephfigueroa3527]

​@FlowforthInstruments it's never better to replace hardware that can be made to work.

[@MobileDecay]

I get better tuning stability with a roller bridge. Less slack in the strings. I normally don't even change the tuners. I just replace the nut, tighten the tuners, and stretch the strings and the tuning is rock solid.

[@shelbyavant5081]

Please tell me you don't tighten the screw in the end of the button.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

The roller saddles for stop tail bridges is a big debate in the guitar world - I've heard both sides.

[@gageinoc]

I think it’s worth mentioning that TOM bridges tend to collapse over time, which is just when the bridge begins to warp/flex downward toward the guitar body from the pressure of the strings. If it’s the D & G strings giving you persistent issues, then you likely have a collapsed bridge. It effectively changes the string-radius of the saddles by lowering the center ones. The top of the bridge should be perfectly straight, so if you place a straight edge across the bridge (over the post holes, in front of the saddles) and you can see any gap in the center, you have a collapsed bridge. It’s essentially unavoidable, given enough time. But the process can be accelerated by using heavier string gauges, having more string tension, or having a steeper break-angle from keeping the tailpiece set too low

[@gageinoc]

TLDR version: your bridge is bent bruh

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Good stuff - thanks for taking the time!

[@LandsOfDespair]

Thanks, just got LTD H3 with my first TOM bridge (Tonepros), I must say don't like the concept at all, it seems like an old design that for some reason is still being used (yes, I know on arch tops it is the most obv option). There are so many things either wrong or strange about design, feels like it has the third leg to fix other two :D Other than that, it takes time and practice to get used to it (height above body, different angle, saddles under your palm etc) after Floyd/Hipshot bridges :)

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Yes, TOM bridges are odd designs.

[@jetobey5656]

I always go to at least "Tone-Pro" for bridge and the stop bar, when ever I am trying to get the best out of a Les Paul, including all Epi's. I build LP's and Jr.'s and I never use cheap hardware. The Tone Pro brand offers a couple of improved "lock-down" versions, for both Imperial and metric guitars made of better metal. It is definitely worth the expense. Upgrading the stop bar makes a surprising difference going from mostly zinc , :pot metal: to cast brass works well. Rollers have even more potential for rattling, and on a Bigsby equipped guitar I make sure the saddles are highly polished and that does it. Good presentation.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Yes, TonePro is a good brand but not everyone will fork out that amount for a bridge. The cheaper Wilkinsons aren't bad - better than what comes on most budget guitars.

[@TaxPayingContributor]

Bridge is also backwards. The intonation screws should face forward for adjustment access and to keep string from interfering. I like old worn in tuneOmatics, but every thing new is going to get JD Moon roller saddles, tremelo or not.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Yes, I forgot to mention that - that's the way it came.

[@hildolfrdraugadrottin7279]

I've bought 3 IYV guitars lately and I really like them. The tuners aren't smooth but they do hold tuning and the pickups are decent imo. The main problem I'm having with all three are the bridges buzzing and rattling. I'll eventually replace them because that buzzing is really irritating.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Yes, that issue comes up with budget guitars unfortunately.

[@hildolfrdraugadrottin7279]

@@FlowforthInstruments They are great deals even if we have to replace a part or two imo. I appreciate channels like yours that help us compare them. 😊

[@FlowforthInstruments]

@@hildolfrdraugadrottin7279 Welcome!

[@GuitarDaze2023]

I ran into problems buying a gotoh tuneomatic,thinking I could just change out the thumb wheel, and get the adapters,uses the existing body studs allowing you to go from large post to small,seems real Gibson LPs have a wider bridge than the imports do,the gotoh wouldn’t fit,I did get a Nashville small post for it, but I had to turn the saddles around to make it into a tuneomatic,there was a noticeable improvement.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Sounds like you discovered a good mod.

[@Emperorprime]

Teflon tejp, stretch the spring or go to a hardware store and get screws that fit. It will cost you less then a dollar. Or demand a better one from the store, they should work on a new purchase

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Indeed!

[@gregorio4646]

I don’t know why the G string buzzes, but Stratocaster style guitar also has this problem. Throwing money at the problem is in my opinion not the solution.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

There is usually a mechanical solution...

[@junito1957]

I CHANGE MINE BECAUSE IT KELP BREAKING MY E STRINGS LIKE CRAZY SO I BOUGHT A BRIDGE WITH ROLLERS ON THEM, NO MORE BROKEN STRINGS FROM THAT SIDE, ALSO IT STAY IN TUNE BETTER

[@FlowforthInstruments]

That's a good reason to change it!

[@twang5]

1. The bridge base of a TOM is arched to match the radius of the fretboard. Zinc bridges collapse- lose their radius, flattening out over time. Happens on vintage Gibsons, happens on new guitars, only takes a little flattening to cause buzzing. one of the first things to check. 2. Guitars with that style neck joint tend to "hump" the fretboard at the joint, raising the frets and causing insane inexplicable buzzing, unless you know to look for it. Again, one of the first things to check. Check those. Roller bridges shouldn't be part of the discussion at this point. You're still trying to satisfy the basic string geometry.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Great points - yes, I've often come across a sagging bridge - it does tend to happen over time. True, the old body join hump is a particular curse on budget guitars - first thing I check!

[@davekeating.]

@@FlowforthInstruments the old body join hump - suits you, Sir 😙

[@FlowforthInstruments]

@@davekeating. Ha- hopefully not Taylors!

[@altospizza-hm3yy]

Because the ABR1 is a better design than the Nashville. Longer sustain due to how the strings passover the bridge not touching the back edge of it as they go into the saddle. Look at your Nashville. You will see the strings touching the edge of the bridge. You don't want that.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Good point!

[@nicholasaslanidis6752]

Those saddles are shocking. I'm not surprised there was buzzing.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Ha!

[@AntonChestnut]

Stretch the springs. You've got loose fitting screws in there right now, with insufficient loading between the saddles and screws as they are set in their recesses. There is no rocket science here. Also, you've cut the grooves way too wide and far into those saddles and increased the landings and surface contact points.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Thanks for your insight!

[@chippsterstephens6800]

I have just about used them all, faber is what you want, tone pro’s while just as good, the company claimed to me, the bridge saddles could not be replaced, nor would they sell individual saddles, that will not work long term. And is complete BS! so I removed all tonepro parts are refuse to use anything by that company. Faber is a much better company, and the best of the best when it comes to abr1 styles, bridge , and Nashville conversations to studs. And like I said, I believe I have tried just about everything made. Gibson parts are not all that great now. Just my take on all this. You want the best, use faber!

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Ah thank you... Faber was what I was trying to think of in the video. They are modeled on the old Gibson bridges but better.

[@WillMunny420]

Agree. I got an ABRM from Faber with brass saddles. I replaced that and my stop tail with a Gotoh. I was going for similar materials to a real 59 on my Standard Outfit 59 Epi and it's incredible now

[@TelecasterLPGTop]

I had a friend who would find rattles under the dash of his cars and spend half of his weekend pulling out the dash to fix the rattle but of course he'd create new rattles. He's a monk nowadays no cars to pull apart just his bicycle and dog.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

I know the type!

[@davekeating.]

Finally found his dashboard Jesus...

[@lastjedii]

Looks like the bridge on my guitar. If I wanted to do a Nashville/Tonepro/ABR, do they make bridges with conversion post that drop right in? I’ve seen FaberUSA conversion post but not sure if that is what I need or not. Any help would be great.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Not sure - perhaps consult Stew Mac on this one.

[@lastjedii]

@@FlowforthInstruments the faber conversion post worked great. Thanks

[@jameslanclos568]

I got a roller bridge for my SG that has a Bigsby B70, and at the time I didn't know much about them, so I picked one out based on it's looks. The grooves in the rollers don't seem to be deep enough, because the lighter strings keep popping out. The rollers seem to be like the brass piece at the ends of the strings. I can't say that's what they used for the rollers for sure. Anywho, I'm putting a Maestro Vibrola on it, but waiting on the new tuners to be delivered. I'm thinking about trying a Schaller roller bridge if I'm still having a problem with the new tremolo. The top of the posts are not visible from the top and it's not necessarily cheap, rather expensive. Would you recommend the Schaller roller bridge or had you any experience with them ??? Thanks.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

I've always found schaller to be excellent products.

[@jameslanclos568]

That's what I decided to get. Schaller is the finest, German craftsmanship. I would have gotten Schaller tuners but the screw holes didn't line up, so I went with the Grovers. I didn't want to drill new holes and the original holes would have been visible, I believe. Thanks @@FlowforthInstruments

[@TonyBurke100]

Those rattles or buzzes can't be heard when you're plugged in and playing at regular volume so why fool around with it unless of course it's affecting your intonation.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Unless you practice at lower volumes and can't live with it.

[@GazMcCaron]

Thankyou,do you know if Abr-1 Style Tune-o-matic Bridge Tailpiece Gold would fit on a Antiquity LS1? Thanks 😎

[@FlowforthInstruments]

As far as I know the post width is the same - so yes!

[@bobbarcus8310]

No one ever says the oversea bridge is smaller Trying to find USA and post size

[@FlowforthInstruments]

I don't think it goes by region.

[@RickDrift]

A shot in the dark, but I need a Les paul style bridge with post wholes at 78mm, which is seemingly impossible to find. Does anyone here have experience with finding Les paul style bridges in odd ball sizes or even a modern company that makes custom les paul bridges?

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Try Guitar Fetish.

[@RickDrift]

@@FlowforthInstruments I appreciate it, but I believe I have checked there already.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

@@RickDrift It's tough because most people just sell universal tune-o-matic bridges - you might have to call a proper Luthier place like Stewart McDonald. You'll pay more but they probably can point you to the right size bridge.

[@HakanBrakan01]

Is it a Chibson?

[@FlowforthInstruments]

No - I don't buy those.

[@prefacciprian7728]

Thomastik make violin strings.Good infos.Thx.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Not cheap though...

[@jonathanmack5474]

Is the bridge backwards?

[@FlowforthInstruments]

I've seen them come backwards.

[@kennycube5126]

Gotoh! Like 'Go-Toe' or 'Goat-Oh'.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Cheers!

[@djmysticalone321]

Gibson is been using this for ever all my Gibson have no problems

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Good to hear! Gibson probably uses a higher quality version.

[@bradc32]

the original TOM bridges are good that one is crap those v saddles are no bueno as well..the older saddles are good as well don't know why they used those

[@FlowforthInstruments]

These budget companies buy cheap parts to keep the costs down - that's why modders go crazy with the part replacements.

[@Tonetwisters]

The string vibrates sideways ... Most of these bridges are made from junk metal.

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Sadly...

[@mikecabral1579]

The setup is not correct. The bridge is crap I agree Les Paul check the nut that buzz is not from the bridge

[@FlowforthInstruments]

Nope - I set up hundreds of guitars a year. I know how to dial in all the physics of the neck and nut - this was a bridge buzz.