Why Should You Use MDF Terrain?

[@Comicsluvr]

Things I like most about your vids that I've seen so far: Down to earth format. No flashing lights, fancy graphics or eye-candy junk. Title is never misleading...very 'what's on the tin.' You obviously edit but since you don't jump all around the cuts are not bad or distracting (I suffer from this in some of MY vids). No smoke...no mirrors...just good content.

[@RodBatten]

Crooked Dice has a really neat set of post-apocalyptic mdf shanties that feature variable assembly, you can build different buildings from the kit contents.

[@KilijHistoryKlcTarihi]

You have such a soft and warm voice... Could listen to it all day

[@maximusspqr]

+TheMaroonWolf Ya, I like when Atom talks nerdy to me.

[@tabletopminions]

+TheMaroonWolf I've heard many compliments on my voice, but not 'soft and warm' before. So thanks for that, and thanks for watching!

[@Spyk3y]

Atom's nerdy talk softly sweeps me to sleep.

[@elenaphisher244]

Just needs a Barry White backing track on the video.

[@Michael-lg4wz]

Its a resonant "radio" voice !

[@-lt3676]

I agree with prior comments regarding CA type super glues for mdf. Just use an accelerator and the curing is almost instantaneous. No clamps! I use this method for mdf paint rack assembly and am very happy with the results and time saved.

[@bmeadwarpedmindgamesllc6220]

Plain old Elmer's School Glue works best on MDF provided you have sanded any surfaces that contact. Lasering MDF leaves scorch and soot marks, which are loose material. We (Warped Mind Games) always recommend sanding your MDF and wiping your edges, then apply Elmer's school glue. Elmer's School Glue sets in about 10 minutes and is almost completely dry within 2 hours, and if you put too much glue down, Elmer's is water soluble while it is wet and is easy to remove excess.

[@ZSTE]

A bit late, but ttcombat has great post apocalyptic MDF terrain.

[@tobynmanthorpe]

Pro Tip: Get some cheap water pistols and cut off the handle. Fill in that hole and stand the remainder on end (glue it to a board). Sand and prime. Instant tech building.

[@tabletopminions]

Hmm. I'm not sure I can picture that in my mind properly. I'll have to look at some water pistols in the stores for examples. Thanks for watching!

[@silverbackseven7]

I'd imagine the more weird looking the pistol the better the effect.

[@tobynmanthorpe]

Yup!

[@codypannell9463]

"Pro" tip.....

[@marius712000]

Yoghurt pots and cardboard cut outs were the staple of wh40k when I got into it

[@slamikonakano1129]

@numbSKULLery That's actually a brilliant idea, thank you!

[@SlaaneshiChaplain]

The legendary grass green table cloth

[@bigbrowntau]

Knights of Dice are making post-apocalyptic MDF buildings. More down the route of larger ruined Art Deco building type of thing. They do a great job of hiding the joins in their kits, and they go together very well. Loved the video, thank you SO much for making them.

[@Slydeish]

I'm a little late to the video, but I paint on a thin layer of Mod Podge to literally anything I build. It strengthens the build, smooths out things like wood or cardboard, and prevents a lot of the 'thirst' that wood tends to have when applying primer or acrylics.

[@hyosworld109]

I'm a little late to this one, but I just got the Waaaghstock set from bits of war. Thanks for the tips! See you in a couple Sundays

[@jimkundert9726]

The Australian company is CNC Workshop, and they are still around but have switched to laser cutting. Their laser cut stuff is still distinctive, too.

[@tabletopminions]

I'll have to check them out, I bought some of their old stuff years ago. Thanks for watching!

[@unacceptableviews1505]

You have such a calm voice and manner.You don't use gimmicks or sad comedy to make your point and I like that.Its going to take me many hours to go back over your vids to watch and like them.I liked the video collab's you did with Sam.You both seem like cool dudes and are so professional.I learn so dam much watching your channel and I thank you for that.It was channels like yours that convinced me to get back into mini painting.Cheers from the Northwest.

[@tonypenksa641]

I backed the kickstarter for the Sally 4th Normandy photo-realistic terrain. Check out their line! No painting required, instead you glue on thick card cover sheets. You dont see too many of the paper cut out lines because there is trim that usually covers it. The scale on the terrace houses is fantastic and it makes for a really impressive piece (especially for those who dont want to paint). There are even plastic inserts for the windows making them look glass instead of just missing. Im using this for Bolt Action.

[@tabletopminions]

Interesting concept! I'll have to check them out. Thanks for watching!

[@JohnnyMuffintop]

I've been using a laser cutter for about a year now and I'm just getting into model terrain. Looking forward to seeing the results. Thanks for really cementing this new venture.

[@scubaguymi]

Charlie Foxtrot is my mdf go-to for WW2. Great models, excellant detail and Colin is a good guy to do business with.

[@markscott6166]

I LOVE the way it smells!!! I also enjoy how easy MDF terrain is to modify. As an added bonus, you can use the "sprues" to fabricate other terrain pieces

[@LargoUsagi]

A tip I recently learned for priming MDF after building a few large MDF boxes is mix up some wood glue like titebond III/II and water 1:1 and paint that onto the MDF. The MDF will suck in the glue and seal it and then paint like you would normally. Never done it with MDF terrain but it works like a charm to save you from the layers of paint or primer. Only draw back I can see with the terrain is if it has cut details into the surface you may accidentally gap fill but worth an experiment and would have been my go to if I ever picked up one of these kits due to my other experiences with the material.

[@tabletopminions]

+Brad Sullivan Yes, those small details would be a concern of mine, as well. Thanks for watching!

[@MichaelAlthauser]

I think this is the first example of wasteland/post-apocalyptic mdf terrain that I've actually liked the look of - thanks for featuring it in the video!

[@tabletopminions]

+Michael Althauser Absolutely. They're great pieces, I think. Thanks for watching!

[@MichaelAlthauser]

Tabletop Minions And more than reasonably priced! I was surprised to see that the Hovels are around $11. Can't beat that for a kit that cool.

[@hadrienvesseron5321]

Thanks for the video. I appreciate that you keep on rolling different topics. I always like coming here to have some inspiration and novelty on the hobby !! Keep up the good work and bringing that type of content !

[@tabletopminions]

I'll keep making them. I'm glad you're enjoying them. Thanks for watching!

[@timscarrott8919]

I tend to go to Sarissa Precision for any MDF kit needs... they cover the spectrum from sci-fi to Victorian, Medieval, Contemporary European, they have a great line of Japanese architecture

[@tabletopminions]

Nice, I'll have to give them a look. Thanks for watching!

[@marcwittkowski5146]

"Nowadays it's mostly lasers." Underrated sentence. Btw: I hope I didn't just miss you mentioning it- what game system are those miniatures from that are standing in front of the huts?

[@tabletopminions]

They're mostly just random post-apocalyptic miniatures I've kitbashed together. From Reaper Bones, GW, Wargames Factory, and others. Thanks for watching!

[@UnyieldingRylanor]

Found this while looking for advice on how to make my TTCombat Venetian Quarter look good, and this is great

[@WarBoy87]

I love the outtake at the end. More of those please!

[@colinmacmillan2944]

Aha ... thanks, I missed that first time round.

[@thehorridperson]

I'm impressed by your supplier. Great move on their part to include accents with their kits. I have picked up a few smaller pieces but find there are some things that mdf do poorly. (you covered this as I was writing it :) ). You made them look sharp and those minis modelling them were solid too. Good move placing them with the buildings to demonstrate scale.

[@tabletopminions]

+horrid person Thanks! They're great kits that I really enjoy. Thanks for watching!

[@bmeadwarpedmindgamesllc6220]

You can also use a lacquer sealer to "prime" raw MDF. The lacquer also sits on top of the MDF instead of soaking in. I don't have MDF terrain on my Etsy Store yet, but I do have some MDF items that require glue and prep and sealing. Also, it is recommended to prime both sides of MDF so that when it dries, you don't get warpage. Lastly, if you do not use the correct primer or sealer, you can potentially ruin your MDF. The MDF will absorb the paint and may begin to swell and breakdown. You can check out Warped Mind Games on Etsy, FB, and Twitter.

[@Oxydus1]

On background i see a Blockade Runner, the Tantive IV, awesome :D

[@tabletopminions]

Yeah, it's a really cool model. Thanks for watching!

[@bobvanpeborgh6312]

At the moment i planned an RPG-adventure set in a (18 buildings of al sorts of size from 4Ground and about 5 buildings i made myself, because 4Ground didn't have it in it's 28mm range, like a watermill and a bel/light-tower) middle-aged city... I must admit that the buildings i made weren't bad, but the "Stoic Arms-inn" of 4Ground and others are AWESOME! I definitely agree that MDF is a great time-saver and really nice to look at... Besides; ALL of 4Grounds' buildings have been made to play inside with 28mm figures, which makes it all more attractive to gamers... The only "down-side" to 4Ground is that their assembly-plans aren't always very clear and you must look very carefully how to glue what where...

[@tabletopminions]

I'm building a 4Grounds building that I picked up at Adepticon right now, actually. They're neat. Thanks for watching!

[@seanmalloy7249]

One of the hidden advantages of MDF terrain is that you can use it to practice weathering techniques on a subject that isn't going to suffer from being overpainted to cover a gross mistake. Oil blending to make rust streaks? Oil-dot filters? Zenithal highlighting? Blending? You can do it all to the terrain, and learn what works and what doesn't before you try the techniques with expensive miniatures. And your outtake about IKEA luggage? They _do_ sell flat-pack houses... when they were first announced, it spawned jokes about the size of the package and how they gave you one Allen wrench to assemble it with (they do assemble it for you).

[@leakycheese]

Thanks for the video, it was very interesting and the discussion you got going on painting and prep was also helpful. I've just bought an amazing modular sci-fi habitation block by Warmill (based in the UK) for use with 40K / 30K and am very impressed by the MDF approach. I built mine with high viscosity superglue left over from a mitre bonding kit which was much, much quicker than using wood glue!

[@tabletopminions]

+leakycheese Yes, I'll bet that glue would also work very well. Thanks for watching!

[@only1platinum]

If you use a little bit of wood glue on the edges that were cut with the laser or places that you sanded down before hand that will help seal up the MDF so that it doesn't soak up as much paint. Just put some of the wood glue on, let it dry then re-sand the glue smooth with a very fine sand paper and it work a champ. I've made a lot of stuff from MDF and it works really well.

[@barryslemmings31]

Have you considered priming with a PVA glue or PVA glue/acrylic paint mixture? PVA is often used in the building industry to coat absorbent surfaces like old dry plaster and plaster board. Mixing - say - acrylic black or white with the glue would give you a coloured primer which is non-grey. The PVA would also have a secondary effect of gluing the structure together. I have only assembled two small laser-cut MDF buildings so far. Both were pre coloured and I used PVA and elastic bands to assemble them. The material seemed to react well to the PVA and there was no staining of the pre-coloured exteriors.

[@tabletopminions]

I have a pre-colored building from 4Grounds, but I haven't built it yet (just got it last month during Adepticon). I actually plan on painting it, though, as I don't like the standard color scheme. Thanks for watching!

[@barryslemmings31]

Yes mine are 4Ground, 15mm scale. Yes the colours are a little standard and generic but - for speed of construction - I find them fine. Mine had 'thatched' roofs made from felt. I was dubious but the roofs worked well. Good luck with yours.

[@ianchristensen9146]

Sanding down the surface of any wood product with a high grit sandpaper (100 grit +) will make your surface less absorbent but careful when doing so, because paint can run or pool on the surface if you use too much.

[@Mr2Syderguy]

Saw a video that was 10 pro tips for MDF, where the Terrain Tutor said you should varnish your MDF terrain before painting. this makes it so the wood doesn't absorb all your paint.

[@SmittyM14]

Haven't heard of Death Ray Designs but I'll definitely check them out now. Those would work good for a modern conflict in a shanty town as well, Somalia comes to mind first. Companies I've used; Gamecraft Miniatures, 4Ground, Cresent Root Studio (little to no work on their kits and they look awesome), and Sarissa Precision.

[@tabletopminions]

+SmittyM14 Yeah, they could certainly work for a modern conflict as well. Thanks for watching!

[@thegrumpymanlikestopaint]

I used a satin varnish to remove the porous quality of MDF. It allowed the primer to take much better and subsequent layers of paint

[@TheTazman49684]

I have several of the 4ground mdf pre-painted fabled realms line and they are second to none!. Lasers ( do finger to lip Dr. Evil style here ) are the way to go!

[@tabletopminions]

+Ron Dillie Man, I wish I had a lasercutter. Thanks for watching!

[@georgebradley9831]

Great stuff, I undercoat with a 3-1 mix of water to PVA. It seals it up nicely and you can prime with a single coat from a rattle can airbrush or just decent quality craft paint. Ttcombat has an excellent range at a great price cheaper still from darksphere.

[@peterdickinson4599]

You can seal the wood before priming using diluted PVA or Mod Podge.

[@lukek.5773]

If you are looking for other ways to finish mdf or even 3d prints I suggest spot putty as well

[@silverbackseven7]

You can find the rustoleum filler primer at Walmart in the automotive section. There's a selection of different primers for cars.

[@tabletopminions]

+Bad Ork Miniatures I'll have to check there. Thanks for watching!

[@silverbackseven7]

+Tabletop Minions thanks for making these videos!

[@LostkingdomNetrpg]

You have mentioned post apocalyptic miniature games. Can you please point me to some of them? I only have played Warhammer 40k so far but I love the Post-apocalyptic setting

[@ZeWrAtH]

I can very much recommend warsenal terrain. They seem to be in the top tier when it comes to MDF terrain and they are one of the very few who are capable of making organic shaped buildings. My personal favourite though is still Zen Terrain. They make incredible terrain and while it's less organic than warsenal, it's half the price for almost same good quality but best of all, when you use it for games like infinity, the terrain from Zen Terrain actually allows for customisation and provide very good cover.

[@MattHolstein]

I would highly recommended a mix of mod podge and a craft acrylic (your choice of color) as a brush on primer. It will made the material stronger and impervious to moisture.

[@danieljz1316]

Battle systems, in my humble opinion, produces the most beautiful terrains and scenery, appealing to any genre of war gaming. What I wish is that they and others of the same type of product producers were more readily available here in the States.

[@bartekkucharski3880]

Hey. wee tip ( wee means small here:). Prime MDF both sides. Unprimed will suck all the moisture from the air cause warping. 20mm wont warp but thin like those will. Learned hard way.

[@tabletopminions]

+Bart Man I'll look into it. Thanks for watching!

[@bartekkucharski3880]

No worries. Its your voice :)

[@balazra]

Glue Mdf together with cheap pva/wood glue and let it dry. Water down some pva/wood glue and paint over the entire surface, this seals the wood. Use your normal cheap pains to cover it in colour Use a cheap mat or gloss varnish to protect it. I prefer "harrmer Matt varnish" as its a lot cheaper than testors dull cote but the closest finish to it I've found. Hope this helps.

[@tabletopminions]

+balazra Of course, I've heard of using watered down PVA to seal terrain before. I'd just rather find something I could spray instead of having to brush on. I'm also concerned about getting the MDF too wet and causing it to swell as it absorbs water. I'll keep looking. Thanks for watching!

[@hodsmat]

Dunno... imho, building your own terrain from scratch is the way to go. A lot of the time it's hard to find what you need within a decent price range, so it's a good practice to make it yourself.

[@tabletopminions]

+hodsmat I enjoy making my own terrain, sure. But sometimes purchased terrain can work great. Thanks for watching!

[@hodsmat]

Tabletop Minions I agree, But it really depends on the setting you're playing in. Back in the day when I was playing LotR it was way easier and cheaper to make your own ruins rather than buying them. On the other hand, there is the W40k where it's pretty hard to make gothic ruins of an Imperial city, for example. So a purchased terrain would look more authentic and atmospheric.

[@rosicroix777]

I have to agree w/both of you on certain points, sometimes its easier to just get an mdf kit other times if i have a bunch of materials i just get a mad urge to scratchbuild & the more you scratchbuild the better you get @ it

[@andrzejprobulski624]

Some of the Multiverse Gaming stuff from their Dark City line (e.g. the Old Diner and the Monarch Theatre) would also be suitable for post-apoc gaming if you're going for Fallout-y look.

[@tabletopminions]

+Andrzej Probulski I agree, they're work great. Thanks for watching!

[@Faetheor]

Impudent mortal has an amazing selection in many scales

[@tabletopminions]

I've heard the name, but I haven't checked it out. Thanks for watching!

[@artourious6346]

Ah MDF.....the new kid in wargaming..I manufactured resin buildings and scenery for 25 years. Resin was king and required some skills in design and manufacture. MDF lazer cut is the younger brother from geek designers sitting on a pc looking at a monitor, nothing wrong with that its just how things move on. I don't see me buying MDF buildings, but then i do make my own hand crafted MDF buildings...so what do i know..I have purchased several Roman balisters and Onagars lazer cut MDF very nice and very cheap compared to metal or plastic...

[@ExBruinsFan]

Those buildings look sweet. They make me nostalgic for the Fallen Earth MMORPG, which I played for a couple of years.

[@tabletopminions]

They're great pieces, I really like them. Thanks for watching!

[@Roymantic]

Is this a Lego Tire on top?

[@tabletopminions]

Nope, it’s an MDF tire that comes with the set. Thanks for watching!

[@johnpatrickmcp]

I have been getting a lot of stuff from Sarissa Precision. I have been making up a Fallout style terrain board for a role playing game I am running and they have a Retro line that fits the Fallout Style perfectly. The only thing I don't like about a lot of the MDF terrain available is that many of the companies are in the UK so you take a big hit on shipping. I just put in an order on Black Friday with Wargames Tournament and it was 100 GBP for the order and 60 GBP to ship it.

[@michaelhall-oc4nj]

me and my friends got into Warhammer: Age of Sigmar a little while back (like a month) and we finally got our armies to the point where we could get a decent size game going (~1000 points), but no one made or bought any terrain, so we used the boxes i brought my army in as terrain.

[@tomdesjardins6778]

h adam, try using matt vanish before you prime MDF. Alternatively you can use laytex house paint or artist acrylic paint on the MDF while it still on the sprue that has work for me.

[@tabletopminions]

+Tom Desjardins I'll have try it, I would think the matt varnish would soak in to the MDF and then the primer would not be able to soak in ask much. Makes sense. Thanks for watching!

[@joshbaker4769]

you can mix mod podge with black or grey acrylic primer. it even seals foam.

[@luxlife2677]

So I was fortunate to grow up in a family sheet metal biz., no not HVAC, precision fabrication. Wtih tolerances being the thickness of your hair. SOOOoo When you mentioned the laser comment "Nowadays its mostly lasers..." was hilarious for me cause always having the punches, and then we got a laser, we always laughed when saying, using, and showing the laser that could cut through 3/4 inch stainless, like (insert the best metaphor), haha. It really is impressive to watch, and use. sidenote, our laser used 14 mirrors reflecting the beam all around until it hits the flat 8X4 sheet and begins cutting out the flat patterns.

[@corniflox9182]

check out the MDF bildings from Knights of Dice. They look amazing (but are pretty expensive)

[@McClane4Ever.]

I find that Rust Oleum 2x primer works great. No tricks or extra steps needed.

[@rosicroix777]

TYVM for the primer tip, have had probs w/priming before. Also the price of MDF terrain is significantly less than plastic/resin meaningmore terrainfor your $$$$

[@WestinsChannel]

LOL loved the blooper at the end!

[@tabletopminions]

It's so rare that I make mistakes, I feel I should showcase the ones I do. Thanks for watching!

[@stranger59]

I've actually been thinking a lot about making a big MDF terrain purchase, as I might start playing Infinity and I hope that Necromunda comes back. There are so many small companies offering stuff right now, it's hard for me to even know where to start, so hopefully I'll see some specific reviews in the comments here.

[@tabletopminions]

I see a lot of Infinity boards with MDF terrain. There's lots of great stuff out there. Thanks for watching!

[@mstrfmlfsnc]

An easier primer to find (and that comes in different colors) is automotive primer. Auto primer is rugged because it has to go on car parts and fills gaps well. What I love about it is that it can bind the freestanding sides of the MDF so it doesn't de-laminate with repeated use. Finally, it obliterates detail, which you don't want on normal models, but you do want to some degree on MDF.

[@Mikey__R]

An MDF trick from the DIY / home improvement world, is to prime with thinned PVA. I'm not sure if this is a good idea, but you could run thinned PVA through your airbrush.

[@audioweasel6997]

I've been using a spray primer that also has shellac in it, that has been working well for me. The shellac seems to prevent it from being absorbed too much

[@michaelrow4876]

Try washing the MDF with some watered down PVA (wood glue), water it down so it's like milk. this should soak into the pores of the wood and seal it once its dry, the pva turns dries into a plastic finish so it should be easier to prime

[@tabletopminions]

I'll have to give that a try. Thanks for watching!

[@michaelrow4876]

Tabletop Minions be sure to let it dry first, massive fan if you ever make it to the UK it'd be great to hang out. Also, ever tried wild west exodus? Good game with sweet models

[@schuylerk2272]

Do you know if there are any significant differences between working with terrain made from HDF over MDF? I found the video helpful for dealing with MDF but I haven't see much discussion on HDF over MDF on how they would relate to wargaming terrain.

[@tabletopminions]

I have a base to a piece of terrain right now that I think is made out of HDF, and it's really, really hard to cut. I'm going to try to stick with MDF in the future. Thanks for watching!

[@gamernick1533]

Painting a layer of PVA over MDF helps to stop it being paint thirsty. I've used it essentially as a primer and it works well.

[@tovas]

You need to put more outtakes into the newer videos Atom.

[@ADHadh]

I play Infinity, so MDF terrain is my bread and butter, as I need a lot of it, preferably with stairs and battlements. Standard 40k hills and ruins will not do it most of the time.

[@tabletopminions]

I know what you mean. Thanks for watching!

[@Acebaur1]

The Rustoleum filler primer is available from HomeDepot.com for 25 bucks a case and free shipping to your local store

[@tabletopminions]

+Acebaur1 It good to know. Thanks for watching!

[@edwardcote2440]

Do you ever prime terrain with a mixture of black paint and Mod Podge? That would work on MDF, right?

[@corbingovers7559]

I'm looking at MDF terrain that has some inlaid detail, will the filler primer fill that in?

[@domsymes5932]

Have a look at " the lodestone " mdf buildings Not post apocalyptic but a really great idea for those gamers that want pre painted , easy storage buildings .

[@tysongardner2821]

They look cool, must say l have not seen them over here l will have to google to see what is available here. Thanks for the video. 👍

[@torlumnitor8230]

Walmart sells rust-o-leum in their auto department or hardware with the regular rattlecans.

[@NikSantSurvivedEndor]

Hey uncle. Do you have a favourite postapocalyptic tabletop? Or could you give an overview over the market in this subgenre? what minis do you like. what games stems are good? these buildings instantly remind me, how I loved fallout 1 and 2!

[@tabletopminions]

+Fabian Siemon My two favorite post-apoc game systems are This Is Not a Test (by Worlds End Publishing) and Wreck Age (by Hyacinth Games). Both have their own minis line (although Wreck Age has a wider line, I think, with 120 different minis at this point) but I also love to convert other minis for post-apoc games. A great set of kits for conversion is the Wargames Factory 'Apocalyptic Survivors' kits. One is men and one is women. Comes with tons of extra arts and guns and such. They're great. Thanks for watching!

[@GunwitchUK]

TT Combat in the UK make some post apoc mdf stuff

[@popoliodiego]

I recently had to paint MDF, to avoid the ducking problem I primed it with a 50/50 white glue and water mix.

[@tabletopminions]

+Diego Ramos I've heard people do that. Did you find any swelling issues with the MDF sucking up the water? Thanks for watching!

[@popoliodiego]

No, it was a thick board. Maybe for thinner pieces i would use less water

[@abstractbybrian]

what were those PA miniatures that were standing by the hovels?

[@tabletopminions]

They're custom conversions I did from a bunch of different companies. Some GW, some Reaper, and some others. Thanks for watching!

[@psyberwolfe]

I cannot recommend the MDF terrain from Warsenal enough. They can be difficult kits to assemble but the results are fantastic! Sharkmounted Lasers makes some great stuff too. the stuff out of Europe is nice but by the time shipping kicks in for the US, buying American becomes cheaper.

[@tabletopminions]

+psyberwolfe Thanks for the suggestions, and thanks for watching!

[@bretmerritt1218]

I know the band, from RVA right? Wish they'd play more in Va Bch/Norfolk! Thanks for making something worth watching!

[@tabletopminions]

+bret merritt No, actually they're from my hometown here in Wisconsin. I think there are two bands with the same name. These guys put out an EP called "Devilled" that's really good. It's on Bandcamp and iTunes and such. Thanks for watching!

[@raideus4338]

What miniatures does he have standing in front of the terrain in the pictures?

[@tabletopminions]

Most of them are from a set by Wargames Factory called 'Apocalypse Survivors' and it comes in two versions, men and women. A few of them are modified Reaper Bones figures and some are repurposed GW fantasy figures with new arms and heads and guns from the Wargames Factory set I mentioned above. If you look at the banner to my KZbin channel (of my Facebook page) you'll see a better shot of them. Thanks for watching!

[@Suraii]

From where does those miniatures shown in this video come from and are they still available to buy?

[@tabletopminions]

Most of them are from a company called Wargames Factory. The figures are from a line called 'Apocalypse Survivors' but they're a bit harder to find right now. Thanks for watching!

[@eduardoscott313]

what are those miniatures you used in the photos, cant seem to find them on the web

[@tabletopminions]

+Eduardo Scott Mostly Wargames Factory 'Apocalypse Survivors' models and some other mixed in GW models. Thanks for watching!

[@GaddisGaming]

Have you played Wreck Age by Hyacinth Games .

[@tabletopminions]

I got a demo in at Adepticon, actually. I also interviewed the guys at Adepticon this year. I now have the book and some models, some of which are built and waiting to be primed and painted. Thanks for watching!

[@neddubh4529]

Great vid as usual, what minis are being used at 8:20? thanks

[@tabletopminions]

+Irish K Just a bunch of stuff I kitbashed together. Some Reaper Bones, some GW stuff. Thanks for watching!

[@neddubh4529]

sacrilege! haha thanks for the response

[@dvklaveren]

What's the pricing like?

[@tabletopminions]

If you follow the link in the video description you can see all the prices and eve shipping and stuff. Thanks for watching!

[@RainMakeR_Workshop]

Where did you get the cinderbock scatter?

[@mcbaine3793]

burnindesigns does all kinds of kits and even does custom stuff. I believe you can ask for custom town signs or store signs. he has a Wild West themed set called Rock Ridge modeled after Blazing Saddles!

[@tabletopminions]

That'd be cool for Wild West Exodus or Malifaux. I'll have to check it out. Thanks for watching!

[@mcbaine3793]

+Tabletop Minions yes sir! WWX is why he expanded his original line, which was pretty small. He adjusted it for that odd scale/ bases. I've backed both WWX KS, so I was on the lookout for good terrain!

[@JasonSkee]

I have enjoyed take Comanche terrains from warsenal. Thanks for the tip on death ray terrain.

[@tabletopminions]

+Jason Skee If you play 40k, they make some great looking Imperium-type stuff. Check it out. Thanks for watching!

[@dustinbainbridge1872]

Adam, what game do you play the post apoc terrain with?

[@tabletopminions]

+Dustin Bainbridge Two games: This Is Not a Test (by Worlds End Publishing) and Wreck Age (by Hyacinth Games, who I interviewed during Adepticon a few months ago). Thanks for watching!

[@kenwad75]

I am trying to find HDF for some scenery and it is proving nearly impossible to find in the US. Anyone know where can I look online to find someone selling sheets. MDF I can find at Home Depot/Lowes but the HDF is a better quality material for cost.

[@tabletopminions]

I have a difficult time cutting HDF, so I stick with MDF, myself. Thanks for watching!

[@JamieKaos]

Do you know where I could find US based fantasy MDF kits?

[@flamfang7357]

You said you like the post apocalyptic theme. If you have not already you should try the miniature game "This is not a test".

[@tabletopminions]

I'm familiar with it. Met the creator of it at AdeptiCon 2016. Thanks for watching!

[@marediasborumor2012]

Could you make a video about 3d-printed terrain?

[@tabletopminions]

+Maredias Borumor I have a new 3D printer coming from Kickstarter in May, so once it's here, I certainly want to do a video about 3D printed terrain and such. Thanks for watching!

[@Kronslew]

I have previously been given advice that, as a cheaper and easier alternative to using specific primers on MDF, that you could instead coat the model in heavily thinned PVA glue then spray the model after drying. Could anyone confirm or debunk this please as I have never tried it.

[@MrStevenWolfe]

Where did you get those fantastic minis? Those are some of the best looking wastlanders I've seen in a while!

[@tabletopminions]

+MrStevenWolfe Some are converted from Games Workshop, some are converted from Reaper Bones, and some are converted from Wargames Factory. Kitbashing is the way to go. Thanks for watching!

[@Jwall1310]

Honestly i like your video for 3D printing terrain. even low end printers with a little practice can make some quality terrain. for any tabletop

[@Mowogjones]

I love listening to you, great channel!

[@tabletopminions]

+Mowogjones I'm glad you enjoy it. Thanks for watching!