Why You Should NEVER Use 2x4s for Furniture Woodworking!

Working with softwood lumber in terms of furniture making items can be a challenge and using wet softwood even more so, wet wood shrinks sometimes warps and bends, frequently cracks and which makes wood joinery a challenge, especially for things like pocket holes or other mechanical fasteners, better solutions are mortise and tenon or larger dowels and sometimes even large loose tenon joinery might work. The way lumber prices are, furniture makers are selecting softwoods more and more, but it may not be the best choice!
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[@barryirby8609]

Finally something I know something about. The 2 x 4's you showed all had the pith in them, the very center of the tree. The wood surrounding the pith is called Juvenile Wood. It's the wood the tree grew in the first ten or fifteen years when it was young and growling like a weed. Very different from more mature wood. It may shrink and swell as much as thirty times as much as mature wood. It is the bane of the truss industry because it can also shrink lengthwise. Old school lumber yards would not accept boards that were mostly juvenile wood but the big box stores needed wood they could sell cheaply and they accept it. Mills used to saw in a way called "boxing the heart". They would cut around the juvenile wood leaving something like a 4 x 4 behind and basically throw it away or use it for pallets. Look closely at the end of a stack in a big box store and you may notice they took the heart wood and resawed it into two 2 x 4's. You can see the pairs. The best bet is to buy something larger, like 2 x 12's and rip a 2 x 4 off each edge, and then let them dry for a few months. Here's an odd factoid, MC equilibrates at about 20% of RH.

[@weldabar]

I noticed here locally that 2x4s especially short 8' boards were the cheapest lumber. Buy a 12' 2x6 and it's different lumber, or even a 12'-16' 2x4 is different lumber. Yes it costs more but might be worth it for furniture. Or like you said buying a 2x12 - worth it for furniture type projects, not worth it for "lumber" projects.

[@artv4nd3l4y]

Thank you for all of the information, clearly someone is in the industry. I happened to start buying 2x10's because they are cheaper than 2x12's, but that makes a whole lot of sense now why I like them so much. I find Menards has the best lumber where I am, Home Depot was definitely selling juvenile wood and has very poor quality on construction lumber. It's nice to just grab big boards then cut them down however you need. If you want to get rid of the box store look using 2x4's you're losing a lot more wood. The funny thing is the wider a board is, the more it is supposed to have wood movement over time, but obviously there's a lot of factors at play. From everything I've used the 2x4's are always the worst, and Home Depot has the very worst of them lol.

[@sdriza]

my dad always ripped 2x4's from larger boards, but never explained why....

[@robertmiler6652]

I noticed that as well, I didn't know the technical terms for what I was seeing, I call them cores, which have awesome grain, when you rip them into 1 by 2s, but they always turn into either "propellers", or "skis" (those are also technical terms).

[@FormerlyKnownAsAndrew]

Your comment was a gem. Thank you. Learned something new.👍🏾

[@5stardave]

I made my outdoor Adirondack patio set out of redwood 2x4s ten years ago. Still going strong.

[@ForestWoodworks]

I have half a garage full of construction lumber I've gathered over 2 years, which has been sitting while I restore my 1946 Walker-Turner table saw. I've been stashing the construction lumber to use as practice wood while I learn and develop ww skills. I'm almost done with the saw, so hopefully I can put the wood to work very soon! ❤it. Thanks Colin!

[@downhomeonthefarm6464]

#2 Prime PTP or better. You must start with a good grade of wood. Allow to dry slowly inside the shop, stacked. Never allow sunshine to dry them. This will cause warping and can cause splits. I build outdoor furniture daily and use 2x4's for legs and frames. After years of trial and error, I perfected a system of drying PTP. Rule #1 ...be Patient! 13% moisture level or less if you want to plane it, route it and paint/stain it. I also use cypress which must be at 8% moisture content or less. 6% is the target.

[@Imac0728]

I’ve had good luck buying 2x12s and ripping them down to 2x4s so i can capture the outermost wood like you point out. Great video as always!

[@artv4nd3l4y]

Yeah I actually grab 2x10's for the same reason, it's all about the operator. 2x12's I find are always low on stock and don't look very good, 2x10's are cheaper proportionately so they really work well. I have definitely bought terrible 2x4's but the solution is never buy 2x4's.

[@Ashitaka1110]

I live in the south and we have nothing but Southern Yellow Pine for our construction lumber. Better than fir and much better than spruce. As you say, 2x12s and removing the pith to essentially get quartersawn lumber is a great trick. I can essentially get two 2x4s (and a full 4 instead of the 3.5 inch width of an actual 2x4) of quartersawn lumber out of a 2x12 for about $15. Lifesaver for someone on a budget.

[@lukasochola576]

In my country,trees are chopped split into lumber of various sizes then taken straight to hardwares stores for sale, being put ln kiln to bring down the moisture content I have never heard of that.we have learnt to work with wet lumber some you can even see the water in them.Nitrocellulose paint is the best for such kind of lumber,you apply water based stain then you put nitrocellulose paint and you are good to go.

[@josephgiustiniani2834]

I got educated on this one. Thank you. Always wondered why 2x4 furniture gets weird.....

[@The_man_himself_67]

One of my first projects was a little side table made from pallet wood. Years later it still looks good. I think as long as the wood you are working with is suitably dried out it's fine.

[@christopherpavlicas]

Exactly! Pallet wood always seems to get a bad rap on KZbin. I have a delivery business; and consequently, I have great access to a variety of pallet woods. Amazingly, I've re-purposed some very nice hardwood boards of oak, ash, walnut and even cherry from pallets. It's amazing how many times I've found these species used in pallet making. It's crazy! It's not a stretch to say that I've made entire entertainment consoles, custom closets and bedroom furniture exclusively from wood salvaged from pallets over the years.

[@wlmounce]

I have seen oak and ash pallets about 1/1000+ but walnut and cherry?! I had to look it up and sure enough. I even saw a walnut one with solid 14/4! Amazing the things you learn from KZbin comments.

[@jerry4249]

It's all great to say not to use 2x4s for builds but man not all of us have the cash to buy better wood. I make some absolutely great looking stuff by just cutting down 2x4s and 2x6s. None of it looks like a bunch of 2x4s screwed and glued together, they look great. On top of that, wet, dry or otherwise none of them have twisted or warped or cracked or anything after it's been built. I love this guy's channel for sure. But there's some reasons I enjoy the lady woodworkers more, they don't have the expectations these hardened woodworkers have. Fact is I do this because I really enjoy doing it. I enjoy building things that are going to live in my home, and the homes of others, for years to come. I build quality pieces out of 2x4s and I reject anyone who says otherwise.

[@graceineverything9064]

Thanks for this comment! I’m new to woodworking and this guy is putting me right off!

[@jerry4249]

@@graceineverything9064 Stumpy Nubs is a great channel too... He's a bit of a perfectionist but you'll get some fantastic tips, especially great tips to keep yourself safe. One thing I wouldn't use my tablesaw without is a FeatherPro feather board from BOW. Sorry I'm going on haha just wanted to give you a few things to maybe make up for this video. I remember when I started and watched every video I could and would see videos like this and end up really getting discouraged and getting into my own head. There's plenty of content that is great to watch (and this guy makes a good amount too).

[@graceineverything9064]

@@jerry4249 thanks. I’ll take a look!

[@14jessek]

It's funny you mention that about woodworking videos by women, because I noticed that as well. These extremely high standards, multiple several thousand dollar machines and tools all to make a box, yet you go to a video by a woman and it's using off the shelf equipment and just as great. I was about ready to give up, thinking that I just can't ever make anything out of wood that isn't bought at a store only open 9-5, 3x as expensive and can't make any mistakes with.

[@jerry4249]

@@14jessek yeah ya know definitely. These guys are great, they give such great tips. But it's hard because they do make you think that anything you make out of anything affordable will fold up and turn into trash and it's not true. I always say it about the ladies, they look like they are having fun, making stuff they like in their house (which... Is what it's about... And if it's good enough for those ladies, it's always good enough for my lady so that's the main thing). That's what it's about just enjoying what you're doing, feeling good about what you're doing and getting better at it along the way. I believe the best way to do that is to buy cheap. My father is a well known artist and what he would say is that it doesn't matter what paint you use or how much you spend on the brushes. All that matters is that you're doing it and you love doing it. He's used expensive paints, and he's used dollar store paint, he said it don't matter. If you can do it, do it and feel good about it. Glad a couple of people have seen my message and taken a bit of the judgement out of some of the more polished wood workers lay down sometimes. I don't think they mean it but it sure is discouraging to hear sometimes.

[@pbjae8140]

I make fancy joinery with my shop furniture and SPF. That is how I practice for household furniture.

[@Jimc4007]

Nice video on the problems using construction grade lumber.

[@markotterby4297]

Very informative video on the poor mans woodworking material. It takes some time to find the "quailty" 2x4's and 6's. I build benches, stools, tables for power tools, workbenches. I've also done indoor furniture benches and a coffee table for a beach cabin motel so less than perfection is ok . I've not had any shrinkage or warping problems so far and have been doing this for 8 years. I use pocket screws when it's not a shear joint. They are all in compression. The Doug Fir KD is at about 16 to 17 %.

[@aroub1966]

Greetings from the Netherland Thank you for the lessons. You talk very understandable also for non English speakers.

[@christophermoody1448]

Interesting. But this is what I found. With 2x4 lumber, when fastened with pocket screws and glue, the joint held together without problems. Years ago I made a 12 x 12 x 15 seated stool with 2x4. Please correct me if I'm wrong, most furniture grade lumber (depending on the species) maxes out at around 350lbs (if only glue is used). The stool I made held up at over 400lbs without an issue. In terms of staining, I learned that when you sand the wood before staining or painting, it receives the stain or paint better than not sanding. I saw blotching. The reason for that was I did not clean the wood properly. I tried it again, this time remembering to clean the wood thoroughly, sand and stained it, no blotching. 2x4s do work. Just like with any type of wood, proper prep is key. The point about moisture content was good information.

[@kalmanszeles8666]

hi,master you have in this video a lot of right,im an old restorer,from Europa ,Budapest ,Hungary Koloman old retaired furniture restorer.thank you so much,for this video,many people dont now about this advaices and ,wood caracters and thehnology . by,with respect.

[@allanhunt194]

Very informative video Colin, Thanks so much for sharing your valuable knowledge.

[@stanmashek3085]

colin this was a EXCELLENT VIDEO ONE OF YOU BEST VIDEO THANK YOU VERY MUCH

[@freewaybaby]

I’ve been amazed at times how dimensional lumber can move. I’ve had 1X2s that bowed both ways like your showed in that first 2 x 4, as well as twist at the same time. How one piece of wood can almost wrap it self into a pretzel is fascinating as well as aggravating beyond belief. I swear some that word feels like it’s destiny is to be a bentwood rocker! Lol

[@Bigdog1787]

When buying from big box stores and getting there wet straight wood as I don't think you find straight ones that's dry. The best thing to do is put bricks on top maybe a shop towel first so they don't mark the wood, but having weight on top of the wood is key at keeping them straight wile drying them for a week or 2. I puchased some wood from big box store and did what I mentioned and they came out very good and straight. Got 4x4s and 2x6 all was wet very little planning to smooth them out and make them s4s.

[@martinoamello3017]

Better yet stay away from buying lumber in a box store period. Find a reputable lumber yard that stands behind their product..I go to an old yard family owned place where they always stand behind everything they sell.. Box stores stand behind zero when it comes to lumber.. I rip down 2x12s ,but I'll put them on the shop floor for a year and walk all over them for the year and cut what I need as I need it. Check the grain..avoid knots and weird grain patterns..

[@veganpotterthevegan]

@@martinoamello3017 Lowes takes back nearly everything...

[@K0h4ku42]

This video was so dense with amazing facts. Thanks so much.

[@osmanvincent1975]

Urethane or polyurethane is the chemical name for the polymer. Varathane is Rust-oleum’s (formerly Flecto) trade name for their line of polyurethane. Moisture causes solvent based urethane to polymerize, or cure from the inside out. That it, it cures faster than adhering to the wood, hence it can come off in sheets. There are very tough and hard water based polyurethanes that are used for floor finishes that cure very quickly.

[@imranh5395]

Thank you, Colin. I learnt something very useful from your video 👍🏻

[@aaudain1]

Always a pleasure looking at your video 📸

[@ajquestell]

I've made many mortise and tenon joints on 2x lumber...but I have a Pantarouter!

[@brentfowler2317]

Well done Colin, great job explaining everything as you always do my friend. Keep up the great work, and until next time. Take care!

[@kirstym7453]

i love your videos. they are so calming to watch and everything is easily explained and understood.

[@hassleoffa]

I pick through KD premium 2x12 only. 2x14's aren't carried by my local anymore or I'd go for those. I average about 1 boards per visit, but some weeks is zero. I make a point of NO PITH. I stick and strap them in my basement, put a date on them and won't touch them for about a year ... then check the moisture content. About two years in you'll start to have some decent stock for simple projects.

[@b.powell3480]

Years ago, I built some quality cabinets using 2x4's !, had no problems !, my tip was I used the kiln-dried rack of 2x4's, don't use the regular stud grade used for framing !, those will definitely warp !!

[@MCsCreations]

Thanks, Colin! 😊 I stay the heck away from pine in general... It's really bad for my allergies! 😬 Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊

[@jdwht2455]

Great video that just confirmed what I had intuitively figured out. If I'm making furniture, will often use maple (my favorite) or poplar if just a general ho hum piece. Even using soft construction woods are fine as you noted for workshop items or some outside 'things' but even those chunks of wood are usually left in a dry corner to dry for a while first. I always enjoy your very informative videos👍

[@frankvucolo6249]

It is an inevitable stop in the road, on the woodworking journey, that we decide we might use construction lumber or pallet wood. Usually happens around the time we get set up with the trio of table saw, jointer and planer. But we learn good lessons from it! Nice video.

[@winnipegdigitalpsychogeogr5958]

very nice episode , thanks for breaking it down the properties of moisture contents in wood and sharing your insight / knowledge!

[@islandwills2778]

you have to pick your 2x4s carefully if you want to use them for something other than framing. for example in this case you can clearly see the pith right in the center of each of these boards. pick better boards and you will have better luck. That aside ive built lots of things using 2x4s but i always try to find ones that have been outside for a bit and are a bit more dry. then i stick them in my attick space of my workshop for at least a couple months. preferably a year before jointing and planing them.

[@littlebrookreader949]

Thanks! This was great to hear. I had no idea of it! 👍👍

[@imxploring]

Great Video! Lots of wonderful information... and your presentation was well done!

[@sbuzz5889]

very informative thank you for all you produce

[@JohnJones-oy3md]

I've been doing it so, so wrong. Never too late to learn, though. Thanks!

[@hassanal-mosawi4235]

Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!

[@sebastienboisvert8561]

Shop furniture is a great way to practice some skills before tackling finner projects.

[@chrisgriffith1573]

The rapidity of the drying process causes the extreme warping of the wood. Slowing down this process helps reduce warping. If I think the wood is moist, I wrap all the pieces together using pallet wrap, and let it sit for at least 6 months. Again, this doesn't stop warping, but it will reduce it. When the wood is down to about 15% it is safe to unwrap.

[@ehisey]

IF you sticker and weight it properly you can just about eliminate the warping.

[@michaelmounts1269]

great video. Big box lumber is horrible. BUT..I’ve had great luck using a planer and jointer to clean it up. Both expensive…but a necessity these days. great discussion about moisture…almost no one I know checks that anymore…

[@michh8901]

Would it be bad to build a fish tank stand out of construction grade lumber? I’m worried that the wood will warp and stress the tank to fracture

[@MakeTechCreate]

Great tips, Colin!

[@ttfweb1]

Out here in Oregon you can get good quality KD Doug fir - and there’s a lot of furniture made from it (my dining room table for example).

[@NOTAPOLITECANADIAN]

Though I am sure you know what you are talking about I disagree with your premise. Your video should be titled why you should never use green wood to make quality furniture. I do make nice furniture out of spf lumber yard wood and I am very good at it. If you make a chest out of cherry that is green you will end up with the same problems despite it not being a spruce 2x4.

[@veganpotterthevegan]

I built a lousy table with Home Depot lumber when I was a kid. My dad had the cheapest tools but 25 years later and my parents still use it every day. In hindsight, it was likely pretty wet but it's still going

[@artv4nd3l4y]

Yeah it's funny SPF is resistant to wood movement (when you're not buying juvenile wood), that's why they build cabins out of it. It looks great when sourced properly. Don't buy 2x4's for starters, the bigger boards are a good way to avoid it. That's funny him saying construction lumber isn't strong, must be going to Home Depot. Obviously pine is not as strong as other woods, but it's not all about hardness either. Douglas fir apparently has the highest strength to weight ratio of any wood species. It's funny how people think everything needs to be made out of a slab, I would argue how many people even notice. Tons of nice furniture has veneer on it etc, super funny but hey if you can get the customers to pay for the unnecessarily expensive builds I guess who cares.

[@veganpotterthevegan]

@@artv4nd3l4y Balsa is by far the strongest wood when it comes to strength to weight. The reality is that we use construction lumber because it's cheap, strong enough and more sustainable.

[@callmedragon5321]

@@veganpotterthevegan well this is a tricky question, it depends how you measure and at what thicknesses and forces you need to withstand. Of balsa and Doug fir it is neither. When it comes to the combination of strength and weight spruce is best. Neither fir or balsa is really used for the combo at no expense. Both are inexpensive and fast growing. Having read through many many materials data charts for years I can say for each of your tasks you are correct but the king sounds like music to our ears

[@shadowulf]

In my much younger days, a friend of mine had a book of furniture built from dimensional lumber. We built a lot of it for his apartment, which was our "party house". Break an arm or leg on a chair or couch. Go grab one of the scrap lumber in back and fix it.

[@charliecalzadilla6028]

Great video. What lumber or wood would you recommend using to build an outdoor bbq prep table. The top will be made out of used stainless steel elevator door. Thanks for your thoughts.

[@gertjegertje1157]

I learned a lot today.

[@unclejim2048]

I picked up on your claim that half-lapped joints are stronger than most other joints. You are absolutely correct -- even stronger than mortise and tenon joints. I'm sure I ruffled some feathers with that statement. But you appear to know that it is true. Many University tests have shown it to be true. I guess wisdom often comes with white hair.

[@derekloudon8731]

Very useful video Colin, thank you!

[@ronaldtreitner1460]

funny because i had some left over 2x6's i got from my brother-in-law that where left over like 18-24 inches. i cut them into thinner boards and some 1.5x2 strips and layed them on counter with spaces to dry a bit with weights on them and the grain i get is amazing, now i'm just trying to figure out what to do with them. wheneverever we brap 2x4's or something we get picky and look for the good straight stuff. also i don't have a place i can keep heated all the time so using moisture meaters and worrying about that is a waste of time, if i want to use something i just stack it with spacers, put a weight on top, and wait until it looks good enough. after that it just comes down to how straight it ends up, how good the table saw "which sucks" was at splitting a peice in half widthwise, etc., on what i'm going to do with it. recently made a nice shoe rack my wife is happy with.

[@elguapo1507]

Great video! Thanks Colin! 👍

[@juhs]

I learned a lot, thank you for the video sir 👍

[@shermanyoung8185]

Wow I really learned something 😃, but I would like to know what is a good moisture meter I could buy to test the moisture content of my wood that I can carry with me when I'm buying lumber in the big box store 🤔 thanks

[@jaytheist]

I purchased some Douglas fir from my lumber yard that is kiln dried. They cost more, but they're straight, knot-free, and dry. Maybe that's an option for some.

[@hansdegroot8549]

Very informative video. Thanks for sharing.

[@rtype4930]

Thank you, sir! Very useful info.

[@daneilers739]

Thank you so much for all this GOOD information!!

[@merc2dogs]

I tend to use treated 2x a lot for outdoor projects, but prefer using 5/4 deck boards for most projects . As an aside, I really like that rack you have for hand planes, I may copy that to store my planes.

[@dexterlichtenstein4935]

Excellent video.

[@gnic76]

You missed the advantage of construction lumber, it's readily available in specific sizes, making it somewhat easier to calculate what you need. Like all lumber you need to buy ahead of time, keeping in mind how it's been stored at your local lumber yard. A week of rain and they store it outside or inside the heated store for 2 months. Even dry wood can twist after you cut it and should rest overnight before final milling.

[@johnrice6793]

Well done. Quite informative.👍👍

[@oleran4569]

Very good class! Thank you!

[@HenryLeslieGraham]

so flat sawn planks can be a problem when you dry them. what about quarter sawn? or rift sawn? i assume quarter sawn is more stable or less prone to warping?

[@michaelvandyke6658]

I get my wood from a sawmill and i get popular cheaper than pine. I get mine in spring and fall that way i always have some that is dry and some drying

[@juliehenderson1672]

Your thoughts on using SAR. Sun and Rain protection.

[@davidmcarthur1093]

As someone who makes furniture for a living, there are very little of wood from any species of wood soft or hard for this reason. Here in the UK almost all furniture is made from MRMDF which is very stable and no for the American audience it doesn't cause cancer breathing airploution does.

[@advocatus360]

Thanks as always!

[@jerryjohnsonii4181]

Thanks for the knowledge !!!!!

[@svsoleil3255]

Great video..valuable info! Thanks!

[@AArrakis]

Nice as always! Thanks! Colin it seems that a troll has put inappropriate answers to each comment…

[@soldier-Dave]

You could’ve discussed the best way to select wood by looking at the various end grain patterns, their pros and cons.etc

[@MikeTheSith200]

Select pine 2x4’s from menards are great. But expensive

[@sappernz]

As an aussie we use 4x2 ..no problems

[@jonwic7869]

I like. Very informative video

[@ared18t]

I've been lucky all the 2x4's I've bought have been warped and then straightened out after drying for 5 years haha.

[@danyodice1048]

Great info as always...🤘🤘🤘

[@alessandrosuppini943]

Hi Colin, what moist percentage would you recommend for a safe hard wax application?

[@gnic76]

I don't know about what a hard wax finish needs but for most finishes, wood should be around 8% -10% dry

[@ehisey]

Around 12 percent moisture. This or lower is equilibrum in most places. With a wax finish as it is vapor permeable (most finishes are) once below 20% you wont generally have issues with the finish, might still have issues with warping though.

[@alessandrosuppini943]

@@ehisey thank you for the info 👍

[@BobAmarant]

Hi there. Would you be interested in doing a remote live demo for a woodturning club based in NJ?

[@Mickeyville2]

Very helpful video. Thx!

[@danynolet9500]

Great information!

[@corymoore9426]

Too late sir, Ive already been using them. good video

[@jayempress4203]

Not knowing the wood was wet, we used 2x4s to bud a ground level deck. We painted each board with water proofing befor adding it to the deck. 4 years later, that deck was rotted, had to be torn up and thrown away. The water proofing sealed the moisture in and so it rotted. What a dissapointment that was.

[@EliteCycleWalkWindsorCanada]

great video... love from Pakistan

[@juliehenderson1672]

Can weight help cut wood dry straight? An arborist I know layered his wood outdoors in a criss crossed fashion for a year prior to his making a kitchen table.

[@Mojo-Risin-Risin]

Good information thanks

[@hohaia01]

thanks Oliver Reed

[@HeyStripes]

wouldn't gluing the pocket hole joint provide the same strength as the dowel joint, but also allow for re-tightening which the dowel option does not have?

[@ehisey]

No not really. Pocket holes have less structural strenght than dowels, both are a bit less than actual M&T joints. Also if you have to retighten the the glue in the joint is gone so you are back to just a pocket screw.

[@stevenrayhoward]

Hi Colin. Very informative... thank you. You emphasized oil based poly. What about water based poly? -Woodprobie (Steve Howard)

[@stephendonathan6782]

I would think you could add a water base sanding sealer and that should help I would think?

[@nostrilnick]

Looks like Colin is making hockey sticks. How very Canadian of him!

[@bubba8]

Thanks for such an informative video. How about a water based (poly acrylic) as a protective finish?

[@lifeispowerful2841]

I make walking canes from 2x4 lumber the stain it. Never had any problem with fir

[@tex24]

How do you manage lumber as a furniture maker? You need to keep lumber on hand that's ready for work right away, but you also need to get new lumber in that will have time to dry. Do you keep two stacks of lumber, one "green" where the lumber will need time to dry and one "ready for production" where the lumber has already dried? How do professional furniture makers manage this?

[@ThFitz]

I will use any type of wood I want for whatever I want to make. Which includes 2x4s for furniture. I am the only one who knows what I want, not someone else. Same with tools, don't tell me what tools to buy, or not to buy. I'm 83 and started about 7 in woodworking, helping my grandfather who people called a master woodworker.

[@johngardiner6800]

For your timber with the metric system you would say 50 x 100 but in the British imperial system you would say 4 x 2 not 2 x 4

[@jeffreycanfora1091]

Any thoughts or opinions on the use of 45° “Lock Miter” router bits? I just pocket up a 3 piece set for 1/2”, 3/4”, and 1” lumber. I got them with the idea of aesthetics for visible joinery. I’m just not sure that dry lumber and glue would be enough to create a good lasting joint. Great explanations of everything by the way, as you always manage to do.

[@georgevanvalkenburg2560]

THX

[@iguanaamphibioustruck7352]

To categorically reject 2X4's is wrong. I was "Dry lumber manufacturing Supt" for Weyerhaeuser Co. I was in charge of all the wood coming out of the sawmill for further treatment. Structural lumber 2x4, 2x6, 2x8, etc, etc. was dried to under 17% Uppers, stepping, siding, dimension lumber was dried to under 5%. Moisture content is controlled by an independent society. My point, if you have permission from your wood source (Home Depot) you can sort through structural lumber and find good wood for furniture. Actually the best source of furniture wood is a salvage yard. Or, there are wood sellers with a wood mizer mill who saws salvage wood. On my desk I have pieces of fir and hemlock old growth that have over 30 layers per inch. My favorite is old, dry walnut. Often you can find good wood at places who sell firewood. Iguana

[@michiganmoto7687]

I don’t know where you buy lumber but all the lumber I buy has stickers between every layer so therefore the lumber in the center of the bunk is just as dry as the top layer.